# garage re-fit/kit out



## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

hi, moved into our house about 9 months ago and now, in the depths of winter have decided its time to insulate and kit out my garage properly...

i'm on a budget with it and will be doing as much as i can myself, which means it'll be done in fits and starts, work and life permitting...
i should mention that i've been reading many garage threads on here and seen some fantastic garages and picked up much in the way of useful tips and ideas and i have also done searches for what i need to know but have not found a definative answer to some things and so am hoping for a little confirmation of my plans...:thumb:

it's an (elderly) singleskin brickbuilt double garage with two up and over doors at the front and a corrugated concrete/asbestos roof which slopes from a height of approx 10ft at the front of the garage down to approx 8ft at the rear...

it's a good size space, approx 6m x 6m floorspace and although tatty has a lot of potential. during the summer i repainted the rear wall, repainted the black liquid membrane all around inside and the 3 sides of the outside that i can reach, replaced front guttering and facia, fixed rear guttering and have temporarily installed some kitchen units so i have somewhere to store all my stuff/tools/toys etc...
also, when we moved in we needed a couple of the windows in the house replacing, so managed to convince mrs sfstu of the need to replace the rotten, leaking wooden framed windows in the garage with nice new white pvcu ones at the same time and i replaced the rotten/wooden side door with a 2nd hand white pvcu door so all good there...:thumb:

i have many plans for stuff to be done including a full re-wire (as opposed to the 2 or 3 linked extension cables there are now:doublesho), insulation of roof and walls, then interior decor...
obviously its a garage, and will still be cold (i have a gas fire and/or elec oil filled rad for when i'm out there) but it's pretty much the same temperature in there as it is outside and also very damp, resulting in rusty tools/toys etc. once insulated and sealed up properly i can make a start on actually setting up a working garage/workshop/gym...:thumb:

anyway, the point of this thread was to find out what thickness of insulation i should go for on the ceiling and the walls...
after much reading and pricing etc i have sort of settled on celetex insulation boards from wickes and will then probably ply sheet them after with 1" ply (so i can put cupboards shelves wherever i want/need)...
i'll be going for 25mm insulated board for the garage doors (along with lots of draught excluder!)...

and was thinking of 50mm thickness for walls or should i go thicker...?

and 50mm for ceiling or 100mm...?

what do you guys think...?

thanks for reading,
rgds stu








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moving day:doublesho







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rotten wooden windows







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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

Nice space there mate, loads of potential

Are you planing on framing the wall to take in celotex? 
Also I think 1" ply on the walls is over kill, if it was me I would go with 12mm or something (I can't work in inches lol) 
It will be cheaper and tbh u won't notice much difference
If you need to mount something heavy you could always use long screws to get to the brickwork through the framen
And I think 50mm of celotex is as good as 100mm of wool!
Then you could make the frame on the walls out of 50x50 batten


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## jolls (Dec 25, 2012)

There may be some information of use to you here -http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/Insulation/Solid-wall-insulation/Choosing-internal-wall-insulation


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

shudaman said:


> Nice space there mate, loads of potential
> 
> Are you planing on framing the wall to take in celotex?
> Also I think 1" ply on the walls is over kill, if it was me I would go with 12mm or something (I can't work in inches lol)
> ...


Hi Ollie, was hoping you'd be along...:thumb:
yes, i am planning on framing the walls with batten (inbetween the double brick support posts) and was tending towards the 50mm sheets and 50mm batten, cost is a factor here so was hoping not to need the 100mm... 
you think the ceiling would be fine with 50mm celotex? not planning on plying the roof tbh...
good point about the 12mm ply...:thumb: really, the only heavy things would be the wall cupboards, which i can always put an extra cross piece of batten in at the right height to hang the cupboards from...

probably a dumb question but do i start the insulation wall boards from the floor or should they be above floor level a certain height?

i'm hoping to pick up some supplies later in the week (if it stops raining long enough to make use of my roof bars!) but will be tackling the garage one section at a time, due to there being so much stuff in there!. 
gonna clear one wall, batten, insulate, ply, paint, hang cupboards before moving stuff over to completed area and starting on the next area...
would love to empty the place out and do it all properly in one hit but unfortunately timewise i need to do it a bit at a time when i can...

rgds stu


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

jolls said:


> There may be some information of use to you here -http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/Insulation/Solid-wall-insulation/Choosing-internal-wall-insulation


thanks, interesting read...:thumb:
it says that ideally the walls should be plastered first before the rigid insulation board, would this matter in a garage..? am not planning on living in it (despite what mrssftu may say:lol, only reducing the damp and cold..?
rgds stu


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

You could use celotex on the celling but not sure how u would attach it 
And the celotex would be off the floor 50mm because u would frame around the wall like a outline then have verticals in between, similer to my frame on me workshop


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## Matt. (Aug 26, 2007)

Not much help mate, but where do you get them boxes from?


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

Matt. said:


> Not much help mate, but where do you get them boxes from?


Lidl or aldi have similar next week £1.49 each:thumb:

http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/SID-1...our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=9005


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

Great space to work on


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

shudaman said:


> You could use celotex on the celling but not sure how u would attach it
> And the celotex would be off the floor 50mm because u would frame around the wall like a outline then have verticals in between, similer to my frame on me workshop


that is so obvious now i've read it... had planned the vertical battens screwed to the brickwork but hadn't occured to me to think of the horizontals...:wall:

with the ceiling, there are 3 rafters that go full width across the garage supporting the corrugated sheets...was planning on horizontal battens attached 50mm down from underside of roof and insulating boards inserted above these battens...?

only other issue i have is water getting in in a couple of places along the long wall which is next to the neighbours land... our drive drops down on a slope about 900mm to the front of my garage compared to neighbours drive which is level. this means that water comes from the base of their wall/driveway and soaks through right at the level of my garage floor...:wall: only happens with prolonged and heavy rain but i can't get to the outside of the garage wall as the gap between the garage wall and the neighbours wall/driveway is about 100mm and can only reach in an arms length...!

i thought the liquid dpm would sort it and it has in most of the garage but still have a couple of seeps left, enough to soak any flooring i may put down and as above, i can't get to the outside of the garage wall...for now i've drilled 3 holes 500mm down into the floor where the wall meets hoping that this would do as a stop gap measure, until i think of something better...:speechles it almost works, need to try a bigger diameter drill bit but my 18v sds batteries are knackered...

it's mostly in one section of wall so will either insulate above this area for now or will be doing this section of wall last anyway so may have a fix for it by then...

i know it needs sorting properly as it'll not help the dampness in here but still can insulate 95% of the garage otherwise...:thumb:
rgds stu


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

Matt. said:


> Not much help mate, but where do you get them boxes from?


if you mean the cardboard ones, one of the places we visit with work sorted me out about a 100...:doublesho
i passed them on to a workmate who was moving and they're now being used by a 4th person, waste not, want not...


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

Derekh929 said:


> Great space to work on


i think so too...:thumb: got a lot of plans, but sadly probably unmatched by finances or time, or skill for that matter...


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

Hard to picture the damp spot 
Get some pics up if you can 
What are the main rafters in the roof made from?


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

shudaman said:


> Hard to picture the damp spot
> Get some pics up if you can
> What are the main rafters in the roof made from?


main rafters are wood, approx 300x75mm and width of garage, approx 6m...?

i should add that there is a drain that runs the width of the garage across the front and have cleaned this of leaves several times and also any leaves that gather in the problem corner by next doors wall...it's helped as not so much coming in now but still not ideal..

wet spot kinda hard to find a pic of... 
1st attempt at water containment...(drainpipe siliconed to floor)







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current attempt, drain holes which i think i should make bigger!







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van is blocking the actual problem of the narrow 4in gap between garage and wall but hopefully you can picture it







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## SKY (Sep 25, 2011)

sfstu said:


> main rafters are wood, approx 300x75mm and width of garage, approx 6m...?
> 
> i should add that there is a drain that runs the width of the garage across the front and have cleaned this of leaves several times and also any leaves that gather in the problem corner by next doors wall...it's helped as not so much coming in now but still not ideal..
> 
> ...


You blank out your number plates and leave your neighbors showing!


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

I would think the main problem with the water is it getting in down the gap between the 2 walls
Maby a diversion were the gap is


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

SKY said:


> You blank out your number plates and leave your neighbors showing!


good eyes...:thumb:


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

shudaman said:


> I would think the main problem with the water is it getting in down the gap between the 2 walls
> Maby a diversion were the gap is


thats what i thought a few months back Ollie , so i sealed the narrow gap along top of neighbours drive and side of my garage wall...it didn't work...

i think whats happening is, when there's been a lot of rain and the ground is sodden/waterlogged, and as our piece of land is on a slight slope, the water is flowing down the slope (but through the earth/ground) and comes out of next doors driveway from the BOTTEM where it meets our land (in my garage)...
if i could access the side of the garage on the outside i could seal it properly there or fit a channel for the water but i can't...:wall:
i either need to seal it from inside the garage or do something to allow the water to exit out of the garage somehow (cant run a channel out of the garage as the slope's not right)...

when we first moved in, there was loads of damp crumbling mortar that had been banked against that whole far wall at the bottem where it met the floor but it obviously hadn't worked as water was still getting in so i scraped it all up and thought the liquid dpm would do it...it's helped in some areas but not in others...

i know nothing about building (as is probably obvious) but could i put in some sort of cement bank with water stopping abilities or some other form of dpm to block the water coming in or would it just come up somewhere else, like through the floor...?

cheers for any input,:thumb:
rgds stu


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## alan h M (Aug 1, 2013)

Have you talked to your neighbour. 
Maybe they would let you take up some of their yard. Only a foot wide along the sged wall . Then dig down bellow the garage floor level. 
Put in some perculation pipe and drainage stone. Fill it up and put back the bricks onthe yard

you would have to dig a soak away for the water from the pipe to go on your property but that wouldnt be a problem. 

I dont think you will ever fix the problem from the inside


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

alan h M said:


> Have you talked to your neighbour.
> Maybe they would let you take up some of their yard. Only a foot wide along the sged wall . Then dig down bellow the garage floor level.
> Put in some perculation pipe and drainage stone. Fill it up and put back the bricks onthe yard
> 
> ...


thanks for reply Alan...:thumb:
i was also advised by a friend previously to dig up the neighbours drive to sort it...:thumb: i know it's the right way to sort the job properly but was hoping for an easier/cheaper/quicker option...don't we all...?

the trouble is, firstly it sounds expensive if i got someone to do it, (i'd imagine the neighbours wouldn't be too impressed by the thought of me excavating their driveway!) and secondly i think it'd need to be at least a couple of foot wide to give room to work, as you would need to go down at least 4ft to reach ground level with my side. it would also need to be the length of the garage so a lot of stuff to move meaning lots of mess/inconvenienc etc for neighbours (who are pretty house proud and love their driveway...:doublesho)

would ideally like to deal with it on my property if possible...

the same friend also suggested cutting the wall out from inside the garage to a height of 3ft or so to give room to dig down and also access to the bottem of neighbours wall where the water is coming out from...there are 3 sections of wall affected, each between posts of double-layer brick(don't know the proper term!) 
what do you think of the possibilities of that idea...?

rgds stu


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

couple of quick pics taken this morning to try and show the outside problem area...

you can see the leaves and stuff that collects there, i stood the tile there as a temporary block to stuff going down the gap...







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sealed the gap about 8 months ago at the top thinking it was runoff from the surface of neighbours drive...







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had a better look this morning outside and can see there's a loads of leaves, mud etc down the gap so wondering now whether it's just a drainage problem due to build up of leaves etc...?
still very hard to access due to the depth and due to me sealing the gap from above with the flashing tape applied on a hot summers day to dpm painted wall with a mini gas torch and J-roller!...:wall:

insulation wise, am planning on doing my roof first...
or should i do the walls first (does it matter which order?)

cheers, rgds stu


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

Looks like build up of ****e in the gap as that flashing looks to be stopping it get in from there drive 
Maby a lenghts of guttuer in the gap it help the water out to ur drain?


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## dstill (Dec 7, 2008)

I know it may sound like a daft question but is there a DPC in the wall and a DPM in the floor slab that are lapped into each other. Maybe ground water rising through the masonry given that most garages are built as non habitable spaces, hard to tell though from photos. 

Happy to try and help you if you have more details mate.


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## Poohbore (Aug 10, 2013)

If you can clean the gap out could you then spray a waterproofer around the gap?

Something like this http://www.promain.co.uk/product/k501-id3202-clid521


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

shudaman said:


> Looks like build up of ****e in the gap as that flashing looks to be stopping it get in from there drive
> Maby a lenghts of guttuer in the gap it help the water out to ur drain?


pretty sure the water is coming out of next doors ground at the very bottom of their wall/driveway where it meets the ground so don't think a gutter would catch it, unless sunken into the ground, which i can't get to...!


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

dstill said:


> I know it may sound like a daft question but is there a DPC in the wall and a DPM in the floor slab that are lapped into each other. Maybe ground water rising through the masonry given that most garages are built as non habitable spaces, hard to tell though from photos.
> 
> Happy to try and help you if you have more details mate.


there's not that i've seen in the wall (assuming it would be above floor level) and don't know about floor but am guessing not...
the house is mid 60's built and i'm assuming the garage is too (if that would be any indication?)...

you may well be right about the water rising up through the floor. it definately seeps through the wall, have seen it seeping from an inch or so above floor level in one spot, although it's kinda hard to get a picture because it's a pretty slow seep... water does obviously sit on the floor once seeped in but have never worked out whether it's come through the wall from that gap or whether its seeped up through the floor...i did try blocking it to contain it in one area with some drainpipe siliconed to the floor but it leaked... am now wondering if it didn't leak through under that bit of drainpipe, but seeped up through the floor...?

as mentioned previously, water only seeps in now and then after lots of heavy rain (i think when the ground is waterlogged) so it's taken me the last 9 months since moving in to really start to get a picture of what's happening...!

and i thought i'd cracked it back in the summer when i painted the liquid dpm on...!:lol: just a thought, the stuff i used was wickes liquid dpm, is there a similar but better product that would work from the inside...?

any help advice is much appreciated as although i do a fair bit of diy, have never done anything in the way of building work...!

cheers, 
rgds stu


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

Poohbore said:


> If you can clean the gap out could you then spray a waterproofer around the gap?
> 
> Something like this http://www.promain.co.uk/product/k501-id3202-clid521


i like the idea...:thumb: my original wish for an easy fix involved spraying some thing down the gap..

had a look at the link but i'm pretty sure that sorta stuff should be applied to clean brickwork, (have seen something similar advertised for driveways), and i just can't get enough access to properly clean the area out...? that gap that i blocked off in one of the above pics, narrows to about 2 in towards the back end of the garage...

cheers, rgds stu


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## 20vKarlos (Aug 8, 2009)

The cheaper option for you would be to take the wall down on your side, dig your side Dow about 3 foot, then put the water course stuff down, against their side of the gap, yes this means you'll have to rebuild a wall and fill a slab of concrete, but as far as I can see, you'll get better access via your garage... Think on the plus side, if you dig 3ft deep from your garage, you'd have to dig 5 or 6 foot deep on your neighbours drive as it's higher up. Also, replacing a wall and slab is a whole lot cheaper than having the driveway redone! 

My next step, in your position, would be to keep everything away from that side of the garage, then in a couple of months (after you've saved a few more bob) clear the garage out, put stuff in temporary rooms, then prop the ceiling/roof up, and takethe wall down. Then Kango the floor out 1/3 of the way across for space, then put your own damp proofing structure in...of what sort,mine have no clue... Ps I'd also pay someone to do this, and while they were at it, I'd get them to brick it all up so it's flush with next doors driveway (unless it state in your deeds about the gap)

All the best bud


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

20vKarlos said:


> The cheaper option for you would be to take the wall down on your side, dig your side Dow about 3 foot, then put the water course stuff down, against their side of the gap, yes this means you'll have to rebuild a wall and fill a slab of concrete, but as far as I can see, you'll get better access via your garage... Think on the plus side, if you dig 3ft deep from your garage, you'd have to dig 5 or 6 foot deep on your neighbours drive as it's higher up. Also, replacing a wall and slab is a whole lot cheaper than having the driveway redone!
> 
> My next step, in your position, would be to keep everything away from that side of the garage, then in a couple of months (after you've saved a few more bob) clear the garage out, put stuff in temporary rooms, then prop the ceiling/roof up, and takethe wall down. Then Kango the floor out 1/3 of the way across for space, then put your own damp proofing structure in...of what sort,mine have no clue... Ps I'd also pay someone to do this, and while they were at it, I'd get them to brick it all up so it's flush with next doors driveway (unless it state in your deeds about the gap)
> 
> All the best bud


you make some interesting points there...:thumb:
something similar (removing wall and kangoing floor) was suggested by a mate but i didn't go any further with it as tbh, i was hoping for an easier/cheaper/quicker fix...

totally agree that access would be easier from my side, as you say, it would if nothing else save about 4ft depth of drive removal...!
although i have some stuff in the way, i think its damp all along that far wall, (although worse at the front end of garage) so i think it would mean doing the whole length of the wall, maybe 3 or 4ft out and to whatever depth it needed...lot of work...:devil:
like the idea of bricking up that gap, will keep that in mind...:thumb:

just wondering, how much slab needs to be above a dpm...? would maybe be easier to pour on top of a new membrane, depending how much height is needed for new slab...

cheers, rgds stu


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

as my above post, just exploring the possibility of laying a new base on top of the existing concrete but using a DPM...:speechles

looking on google, found a site that states 
"laid unbonded onto a suitable damp proof membrane which is placed over the slab, with a minimum thickness of 50mm"

50mm i think would be quite doable in my garage, possibly up to 100mm that i can see i could raise the height by...was thinking that if the DPM could be fixed somehow INTO the wall maybe 2 or 3 courses up from existing floor, would that solve my issue, (as the water seep is through the wall near enough at existing floor level and also possibily through the existing floor)...?

i should add, the garage won't be used to store a car in, maybe sometimes to work on but not regularly...:thumb:

any thoughts guys...? is this a viable alternative to digging and removing wall? (read cheaper, easier!!)

cheers for reading,
rgds stu:wave:


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## Dan_Mol (Jul 3, 2012)

Along the wall that runs front to back neighbours side, is it damp to touch all the way along or just the spots where you have drilled the holes?

I would say its caused by all the crap stuck in the gap, getting wet and sitting on the brick work causing damp.

Guessing the garage was an extension at some point as the gap between garage and next doors drive is very minimal, shame wasn't built on the boundary so didn't have the gap or in a foot to be able to clear.


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

I would agree that it is a extension as well as I was thinking that they wouldn't have put a roof on like that when the house was built as it would have at least had a flat felted roof 
About going over the original floor, you could take the new poloythene that covers the floor into a course of bricks by racking a bed out and pointing it in 
But is a bit*h of a job IMO
I was thinking of a screed but again poloythene would be needed I think


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

Dan_Mol said:


> Along the wall that runs front to back neighbours side, is it damp to touch all the way along or just the spots where you have drilled the holes?
> 
> I would say its caused by all the crap stuck in the gap, getting wet and sitting on the brick work causing damp.
> 
> Guessing the garage was an extension at some point as the gap between garage and next doors drive is very minimal, shame wasn't built on the boundary so didn't have the gap or in a foot to be able to clear.


it was equally damp all along that wall originally, partially cured by the liquid dpm i painted on...
i agree too, i think all the mud, leaves and cack in the gap are exactly whats causing the seepage...i did clear some of it out a month or two back but could only get in there a foot or so, this has definately helped as there is less seepage than there used to be in that area but i just can't see how i could clean the whole length of that gap, especially as it narrows to about 50mm at the far end...

rgds stu


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## alan h M (Aug 1, 2013)

What kind of crap is in there. 
Probably just leaves and rubish. 
Whould an industrial vac suck it out. You can hire them out with a 50mm hose. That should suck all at up

if no that then a 2x1 with a few nails to pull it out


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

shudaman said:


> I would agree that it is a extension as well as I was thinking that they wouldn't have put a roof on like that when the house was built as it would have at least had a flat felted roof
> About going over the original floor, you could take the new poloythene that covers the floor into a course of bricks by racking a bed out and pointing it in
> But is a bit*h of a job IMO
> I was thinking of a screed but again poloythene would be needed I think


you're probably right mate about the age of the garage, i know it's pretty old looking at the condition of it though, maybe 70's?
with the pointing in of polythene, when you say a bit*h a job do you mean difficult or just PITA...?


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

in other news, i bought 3 sheets of 25mm celetex for doing the garage doors and 5 sheets of 50mm for the roof today. i'll need more but it was bad enough with that lot on the roof of my astravan with the wind howling all the way back from wickes :doublesho !
got a couple of mates from work coming over Saturday to get the roof all done, added bonus is they're both well over 6ft tall...

just gonna do some battens along the rafters and pop the sheets in above them, i'm guessing they won't sag across a 1.5m gap but if they start to then i'll add some support...looking forward to it going up as the silver backing will reflect the 4 strip lights much better then they are now...:thumb:
all the walls (eventually) will be painted white too so will be nice and bright in there and it'll be nice to be insulated in there too, both winter and summer...

as you may have seen in previous pics, i have a motley collection of kitchen cupboards, both base units and wall which i've aquired in the last year or so...they're all good quality, solid cupboards so plan is to replace the doors on them for a cleaner look...
plus, one of the base units turned out to be a (working) fridge...result...

rgds stu


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

alan h M said:


> What kind of crap is in there.
> Probably just leaves and rubish.
> Whould an industrial vac suck it out. You can hire them out with a 50mm hose. That should suck all at up
> 
> if no that then a 2x1 with a few nails to pull it out


it's leaves and mud mostly...but i think that a bit further in than i can properly reach or see _could_ be some cement or mortar or something thats been dropped there at some point, (possibly from when whoever did some cement banks around the interior of the garage wall, maybe they dumped some down there then...?)
also, can only reach about halfway along the wall too from the top, as the driveway almost touches the garage wall (at the top only)...
i could rake out quite a bit possibly but not convinced i could reach the end...there's no access from the back end of the garage by the way...

an industrial vac is an interesting idea though...:speechles are they used for this sort of purpose?

thing is, although i do need to clean out as much as possible from that gap there's still the possibility of the water seeping up through the floor which would be more down to where our plot is on the slight slope here maybe...?

rgds stu


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## Dan_Mol (Jul 3, 2012)

Could you get a drain attachment for a pressure washer and use it as a rod to clear all the crap out the gap. Give it a week see if dries out better and then find a way to seal that gap.

Clean it out, block off, put a sheet of DP into the hole covering all of the wall and pour a wet concrete mixture down, filling the gap and angle the top as you have with the flashing so water runs onto the drive and away. Or shape it with guttering to run down your side and into your drains.

Ensure your gulley drains are clear and running away as they should.

Back side of garage, check nothing is touching the wall like planted areas.

One more thing...wear a mask if cutting celetex.


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

I was just thinking the same as dan! 
Get a poloysheet down like a L shape down ur wall to the floor!
Wont take much to fill that up 
But everything would need to be dry really so maby a job for the summer!?


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

Dan_Mol said:


> Could you get a drain attachment for a pressure washer and use it as a rod to clear all the crap out the gap. Give it a week see if dries out better and then find a way to seal that gap.
> 
> Clean it out, block off, put a sheet of DP into the hole covering all of the wall and pour a wet concrete mixture down, filling the gap and angle the top as you have with the flashing so water runs onto the drive and away. Or shape it with guttering to run down your side and into your drains.
> 
> ...





shudaman said:


> I was just thinking the same as dan!
> Get a poloysheet down like a L shape down ur wall to the floor!
> Wont take much to fill that up
> But everything would need to be dry really so maby a job for the summer!?


that does sound like a doable plan guys, cheers...:thumb:
i really need to get a torch and get out there and see what i can see down that gap, and try and get as much cack out of there so i can then see whats what...
still a little concerned about whether i could access (for cleaning or pouring cement into) along the whole wall. i can certainly reach from above about 70% of it...
as you said Dan, a pressure washer is a possibility, and had thought of drain rods with maybe a brush attachment of some sorts maybe...?
may try and catch my neighbour at the weekend and see what he thinks regarding pouring concrete down the gap. his only possible concern i would think would be if he needed to remove some of that area of his driveway but can't see why he would...
and you're right Ollie, it's definately a job for summer...:thumb:

cheers for the mask tip with the celetex Dan...:thumb:

rgds stu


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

Your best bet and probably cheaper option would be to wait till dryer weather(Tuesday in August this year!) clear it all out and fill with concrete as suggested above. Could you scrape it out with drain rods and something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUTTER-CLEANER-DRAIN-ROD-DROP-SCRAPER-FITTING-TOOL-/330416234171 attached?

You say there is no access to the gap from the back garden, is this because of garden or concrete? If garden it would be worth digging down for access and trying to push the crap out rather than pulling it. Or if you remove the flashing at the top of the gap you could use a drain rod and scraper from the top to scrape it clear.


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## 20vKarlos (Aug 8, 2009)

I think these suggestions are a great idea and are outside the box, whether they are the best option is another matter. 

SFSTU, how long do you plan to live at this house? As I think that this should be a factor in the way you tackle this problem. 


If you plan on being there for 5 years or more, then maybe the big outlay on doing the work to an 'extensive' approach would be justifiable. But say you want to sell the house already, but are worried that this will affect the houses value, so you'll do what it takes to 'Make Good' then do the bare minimum. 

If it were me, I'd be ripping it up, nothing worse that doing a job, then 6 months later when the winter sets in, and you've got the same problems again. It's a gamble, and if you can extend your budget, or you can convince the wife to allow it in the Expenditure SpreadSheet, then rip it up bud.

If like myself in the current economy, you don't have £4000 to throw at it (plucked a number from the sky) then do the bare minimum mate, then sort it correctly later. Just bare in mind, that the bare minimum is not a Permanent fix, or at least it shouldn't be. 


All the best bud


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

Darlofan said:


> Your best bet and probably cheaper option would be to wait till dryer weather(Tuesday in August this year!) clear it all out and fill with concrete as suggested above. Could you scrape it out with drain rods and something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUTTER-CLEANER-DRAIN-ROD-DROP-SCRAPER-FITTING-TOOL-/330416234171 attached?
> 
> You say there is no access to the gap from the back garden, is this because of garden or concrete? If garden it would be worth digging down for access and trying to push the crap out rather than pulling it. Or if you remove the flashing at the top of the gap you could use a drain rod and scraper from the top to scrape it clear.


i'm liking this idea of clearing it out and filling the gap...:thumb:
had a very brief look this morning (in the rain!) and there is access, of about 40mm!:doublesho enough to get a rod in i guess so something i'll have a crack at as soon as i get a spare couple of hours...think a mate has a set of drain rods...
rgds stu


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## sfstu (Aug 3, 2010)

20vKarlos said:


> I think these suggestions are a great idea and are outside the box, whether they are the best option is another matter.
> 
> SFSTU, how long do you plan to live at this house? As I think that this should be a factor in the way you tackle this problem.
> 
> ...


cheers Karlos, i totally agree with your way of thinking regarding spending the money to get the job done properly, once and for all. we moved here about 9 months ago and i absolutely love this house and area and have no plans to move, ever...
however, funds are an issue...
even if it were half what you guessed at i'd be hard pressed to warrant spending the money on the garage, especially when mrsSfstu wants the entire house decorating and changing...:doublesho
i can just hear her now, "_but it's only a garage?"_...
time is also an issue as i do have 101 things on my to-do list around the house, garden and garage and between work and everything else i ideally need to find a relatively cheap and easy option thats within my capabilities...

i think clearing the gap will stop the issue of the walls seeping for sure, i'll then need to see if the floor itself is allowing the water to rise, (in which case i can come back to the new floor with membrane idea maybe) but i'm keeping my fingers crossed for a simple solution...
rgds stu


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

sfstu said:


> i'm liking this idea of clearing it out and filling the gap...:thumb:
> had a very brief look this morning (in the rain!) and there is access, of about 40mm!:doublesho enough to get a road in i guess so something i'll have a crack at as soon as i get a spare couple of hours...think a mate has a set of drain rods...
> rgds stu


40mm should be enough to get rods in or a wet and dry vacuum hose. Clearing it as much as possible will probably make a difference.


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