# Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger



## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Great stuff this but was wondering if you guys spray it onto a MF or straight onto the paintwork? I find the spray head a bit naff and could do with a finer mist head. Whats your opinions guys?


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

straight on the paint except for fiddly bits like bumpers etc

I like it as well :thumb:


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## NickP (Nov 20, 2005)

I spray on to the car and then buff


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Are you guys using the original spray head? I just think a finer mist would be easier as I don't want to use too much as its easy to get carried away.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

I just use the standard bottle and sprayer, and just use a very light squeeze and kind of spray it over an area, in a wave motion.

I dont like misters as working outside means the wind usually takes it all away and very little ever reaches the paint...


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## Guest (Aug 21, 2008)

I'd like to chime in on this thread. If you use the Acrylic Jett bottle and find it a pita to rub off, spritz it with the Jett Trigger and it's a breeze to polish off.


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Cyclo said:


> I'd like to chime in on this thread. If you use the Acrylic Jett bottle and find it a pita to rub off, spritz it with the Jett Trigger and it's a breeze to polish off.


Think what you are meaning if you have a problem with the Prime or Jett Trigger then use the Glos (detailing spray) to remove them.


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

How many applications are you guys getting out a bottle of Jett Trigger?


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

lost count so far...used it absolutely loads and its still 60% full


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## Guest (Aug 22, 2008)

LOCKE said:


> Think what you are meaning if you have a problem with the Prime or Jett Trigger then use the Glos (detailing spray) to remove them.


Well if you put the Prime on too thick or the Jett (in the bottles) the spray Trigger will help remove the haze.


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Cyclo said:


> Well if you put the Prime on too thick or the Jett (in the bottles) the spray Trigger will help remove the haze.


Sorry for being pedantic but I still feel you are meaning GLOS, as the Jett Trigger _is_ the sealant.


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## Buck (Jan 16, 2008)

LOCKE said:


> How many applications are you guys getting out a bottle of Jett Trigger?


I have applied four or five coats to my A4 Avant and have well over half left

I tend to apply to the larger panels by spraying directly and then onto the cloth for the fiddly bits/near windows etc.

Also, use GLOS to loosen it up if I have left on too long or if I see that I missed bits later!!


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## Guest (Aug 23, 2008)

No I ment exactly what I wrote in both posts.
http://www.werkstat.com/acrylic-jett.php

Trigger is a reformulation of the Jett that you can still buy in the bottle. 
http://www.werkstat.com/acrylic-jett-trigger.php

Glos is nothing more than a QD.
http://www.werkstat.com/acrylic-glos.php


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## N8KOW (Aug 24, 2007)

I love the pic on the website of the 911 Carrera Rich detailed. Stunning. Unreal photo as well.


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Cyclo said:


> Well if you put the Prime on too thick or the Jett (in the bottles) the spray Trigger will help remove the haze.





Cyclo said:


> No I ment exactly what I wrote in both posts.
> http://www.werkstat.com/acrylic-jett.php
> 
> Trigger is a reformulation of the Jett that you can still buy in the bottle.
> ...


Correct me if I'm wrong but Jett Trigger is just a reformulation (3rd generation) of Jett plus a trigger spray head??? Now, why if you had haze with Jett (sealant) why would you use Jett Trigger (reformulated sealant with a spray head) to remove the haze??? Glos IS a QD but also used to remove stubborn Prime, Prime Strong, Jett, Jett Trigger and probably any other Jeffs Werkstat polish or sealant that I've never heard of before!


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

N8KOW said:


> I love the pic on the website of the 911 Carrera Rich detailed. Stunning. Unreal photo as well.


Never noticed that. Rich (and Clark) is a top bloke. :thumb:


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## Guest (Aug 23, 2008)

LOCKE said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but Jett Trigger is just a reformulation (3rd generation) of Jett plus a trigger spray head??? Now, why if you had haze with Jett (sealant) why would you use Jett Trigger (reformulated sealant with a spray head) to remove the haze??? Glos IS a QD but also used to remove stubborn Prime, Prime Strong, Jett, Jett Trigger and probably any other Jeffs Werkstat polish or sealant that I've never heard of before!


Do you have it? I do. Do you use it? I do. Have you tried it? I have. Did it work for you? It did for me.

Tell you what, if you get haze from the Jett, just rub harder. It will go away. Or better yet, just spritz it with some water. Matter of fact i've posted some pics that were done just as I said.

This some kind of p**sing match here or what?


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Cyclo said:


> Do you have it? I do. Do you use it? I do. Have you tried it? I have. Did it work for you? It did for me.
> 
> This some kind of p**sing match here or what?


Yes I have AND use the Werkstat Acrylic Range. As for some p**sing match I am merely on this forum to find information about products and listen to other peoples views and opinions (as well as give my own). I am willing to learn but at the same time will query any opinion to benefit my knowledge on that particular product.

Have a look HERE. Enough said.


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## Gen2 (Mar 10, 2008)

I believe either way will work just fine, whether it is using the Trigger or the Gloss to remove the stubborn residue from the Jett. Actually I have found applying the Jett the same way as the Trigger works great for me, just keep working the Jett into the paint untill it almost disappears and you will not have any problem with the residue.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

I have used both Glos and Jet Trigger to remove the residue from Prime Acrylic, so am guessing either would remove Jet residue as well, although dont own it and havent tried that 

My guess is simply the solvents/liquid nature of both perform the same task. Removing Prime Acrylic with AJT saves a step as you buff and add the first layer at the same time 

JUst got hold of the Carnauba set as well which I have been craving for a while - anyone used that yet? Heard it is a little harder work than the Acrylic set, but I've been very impressed with all the Jeffs stuff I've tried so really wanted to see how the nuba versions get on


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Gen2 said:


> I believe either way will work just fine, whether it is using the Trigger or the Gloss to remove the stubborn residue from the Jett. Actually I have found applying the Jett the same way as the Trigger works great for me, just keep working the Jett into the paint untill it almost disappears and you will not have any problem with the residue.


Gen2 - are you the same one from Autopia? Seen some of your work there and it was awesome  That red Civic was legendary :thumb:


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## Gen2 (Mar 10, 2008)

Bigpikle said:


> Gen2 - are you the same one from Autopia? Seen some of your work there and it was awesome  That red Civic was legendary :thumb:


Hi Bigpikle, thank you for the compliment and you are right, I am the same Gen2 over at Autopia. Saw your posting over at Autopia too, that red Audi looks real wet :thumb:.

I noticed you have tried alot of different detailing products and really enjoyed reading your unbiases comments on those detailing products .


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Gen2 said:


> Hi Bigpikle, thank you for the compliment and you are right, I am the same Gen2 over at Autopia. Saw your posting over at Autopia too, that red Audi looks real wet :thumb:.
> 
> I noticed you have tried alot of different detailing products and really enjoyed reading your unbiases comments on those detailing products .


thanks - its part of why I enjoy detailing 

Look forward to seeing more of your work on here as well :wave:


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

I find the Jeffs system very easy to use, which is obviously good, however I don't get the satisfaction using it as I would working with a wax. Does anyone else feel the same way or even know what I mean! :tumbleweed:The protection is first class though and the appearance is great on my Grey paintwork. :thumb:


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

no - I am the opposite. Seem to prefer the whole sealant thing really 

got the Carnauba Jet for the best of both worlds :lol:


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## Guest (Aug 24, 2008)

I'm up in the air on it. Right now I'm using it on white. and it looks good. But kinda/sorta plastic. And only to my eye, because I know what I've done to it. But to put some wax on top of it, It doesn't seem to change the appearance any. I'm pleased, but I also know that a 550 GBP pot of wax will also look the same. Everything is so subjective. Durability is better, so that's a plus. I've seen to many wax's slip away within a month. And each time you add more, your potentially adding swirls.

When I get bored, I do stupid thing's, like order more stuff from the net. Yesterday, this was how bored I was. I changed oil, and decided that the Aluminum oil pan was going to oxidize pretty badly down the road and in a few years would disappoint me when I looked at it. So out comes some metal polish and a file. I knocked down some flashing on the edges of it, from the mold it had been poured into, then polished it as good as I could. Next, I got out two bottles of sealant. 

First, sprayed it with Opti-Seal, spread it around and let it set. Then an hour later, polished it off. Waited about an hour then put Jetseal 109 over that. Immediately noticed that Jetseal seemed to cut right thru the Opti-Seal because my towel was coming up with aluminum oxidation. HUH? What's up with that? Polished that off after an hour also. Nice and Shiny.

So it's now sealed and ready for a long term durability test. Heat/road grime, wear and tear. As for Jeff's I like it and highly recommend it. I have everything of theirs and like it all. Just haven't used the carnauba on top of the acrylic yet.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

....ummm

need to do a Carnauba jet detail on one of the cars I think  See how it works....

FWIW - I never rated Jetseal on paint, but it seemed to do well on my wheels so hopefully might do well with the heat/dirt


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Cyclo said:


> And each time you add more, your potentially adding swirls.


Are you talking about applying wax here?


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## Guest (Aug 24, 2008)

What's a swirl? It's a scratch. How do you get a scratch? When 2 object's come in contact with each other.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

LOCKE said:


> Are you talking about applying wax here?


I think he was - after commenting many waxes dont seem to last long. See his point as well. The MR-2 I'm working on this weekend has such soft paint that my softest brand new MF's marr the paint buffing the thinnest wax residue ever  Had the same with a Honda ITR I did earlier this year as well - 2 cars you wouldnt want to be waxing every few weeks....


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

I realise that the less you come in contact with the paintwork the better but as wax isn't abrasive I never thought that the application would cause scratches. Something else to be paranoid about now.


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## Guest (Aug 24, 2008)

So, all those pictures you've been viewing with the circular scratches showing up around a light..... they had to come from someplace. Your hand motions when you wash are usually long lateral sweeping strokes. Hand motion's when you apply wax are usually small overlapping concentric circle's. 

That's been one of the whole point's to this forum. To change people's mindsets about how to clean a motor vehicle without adding damage to it. Probably the hardest mindset to change is how to apply a Last Step Product, or anything that comes into contact with the paint.

Quite a few people are now advocating long lateral strokes, horizontally on flat top surfaces and vertically on side surfaces. Kinda like me trying to brush my teeth up and down, when I want to do it side to side.

So you prepare the vehicle as clean as you can get it, When you have it, to your satisfaction or can go no further, you don't want to wait long before you protect the paint. You wouldn't grab a dirty rag to dip into your Wax or Sealant, for fear of something on it causing a scratch and you just rubbing it on the paint.

New TopCoats just now starting to hit the market are Ceramic. It's being used in paint, but as for the clear I haven't read enough on that yet to comment. Clearcoat had a lot of problems back in the 70's until they straightened it out. Probably within 10 years that will have migrated down to every vehicle sold. Exactly what it all entails, I am not sure right now. But it's coming, you can be sure, and Turtle Wax Ice for Ceramic's will be right their too!


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Now I'm confused. Read THIS about wax application.


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## Guest (Aug 25, 2008)

Made perfect sense to me, that's a reason their are about 500 brands of wax.


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## Guest (Aug 25, 2008)

*Detailer's Automotive Clay*

you think that was bad... look at this...... at the top then the bottom


> *Will detailer's clay remove the applied paint film surface protection?*
> _It will remove a wax product, but not a cross-linked polymer sealant, as they form a molecular bond with the paint surface _
> *How long does the process take?*
> This would be dependent upon many factors, such as how well the car is maintained between detailing clay bar sessions, what type of environment is the vehicle exposed to, how contaminated the vehicle is and of course the size of the vehicle. An SUV is going to take approximately twice as long as a Mini. A mid-sized vehicle usually around an hour to an hour and a half; I would suggest 1-2 hours is an average time for this process. Ambient temperature will affect its pliability and may effect how long the clay process takes, if its cold place clay in warm / hot water before use
> ...


http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?title=Detailer’s_Automotive_Clay


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

IIRC the circular pattern of swirls isnt actually a circle of scratches but a trick of the light that makes them look like that. The scratches can be horizontal as well.


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## Guest (Aug 25, 2008)

Bigpikle said:


> IIRC the circular pattern of swirls isnt actually a circle of scratches but a trick of the light that makes them look like that. The scratches can be horizontal as well.


Yea, always wondered about that. I wonder if it's light defracting at right angle's and running thru the clear that makes it look like a sander was used on it.


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## LOCKE (Feb 11, 2008)

Cyclo said:


> Made perfect sense to me, that's a reason their are about 500 brands of wax.


Is it not the applicators that cause the scratches rather than the waxes?


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