# How to start the fight against corrosion of aluminium and alloy components?



## Mr. CRD (Dec 18, 2012)

Hi All, I am new to the forum and I would benefit from advice on some stubborn stains on engine (2006 Chrysler 300c), mostly all kinds of corrosion on alloy parts/brackets but also some dirt/grime. I bought the car 2 months ago and I have read quite a few posts but couldn't find a clear consensus for process/tools/materials for corrosion. Is it highest level of difficulty in the detailing hobby?  I have tried AG Engine Cleaner, 3-in-1 Heavy Duty Cleaner degreaser (citrus foaming), Wynn's Carburator cleaner on the greasy parts and the results are modest without some serious scrubbing. I get the feel that without some form of abrasion I cannot make progress. So Santa will bring me a cordless dremel and will start experimenting soon when I get the steel/sanding polishing brushes. I have to do most things in-situ, cannot take parts off the car as I dont have a garage and car is a daily runner. Engine looks quite intimidating for my experience too. At the moment I have ordered some Mothers Mag & Alu polish, and based on what I read on the forum, I have set my eyes on RaceGlaze AluBright Deoxidiser and Blackfire All Metal Sealant. Here are a few pictures and please share from your experience and advice or include any relevant thread links. (Process/Tools/Materials)

1. Diesel Engine without the plastic/rubber protection:









2. Some components:









3. 









4. Bracket









5. Dodgy old paint









6. Fuse box and ABS some breaks lines









7. Turbo cover









8. Near the fuel pump


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## zak20vt (May 6, 2010)

This is more or less my starting point with my engine bay too. It's a shame nobody was able to advise.


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## rs_si (Apr 20, 2010)

I was recommended this for the same problem

http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/car-care...ace-glaze-alubright-aluminium-engine-cleaner/

Haven't used it yet though as recently sent majority of my engine bits for powder-coating.


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## RaceGlazer (Jan 10, 2007)

AluBright will sort out pretty well all of the discoloured metal parts.

Many folks also buy JetLaq which is a heat resistant sealant for metal work


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## Dift (May 22, 2011)

Once clean, For protecting metal work from corrosion, I always use ACF-50










It leaves a nice finish, but does attract dirt.

Easy to clean it off and start again though after a year, and the metal will
Have been protected.


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## Mr. CRD (Dec 18, 2012)

Hi All, thanks for replies, just a little update, I have experimented in situ with one of the oxidised parts that was more accessible (front control module). The Dremel polishing wheel + Mothers Mag&Alu polish + Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant worked really nice but require some patience (which some would have plenty when the love is young) and nice weather. Lets see how it holds after a few months
I feel encouraged to move on to other parts but this weather is hopeless again! I will post updates when I get to do the next piece.

Before:










After (slightly different angle/zoom):


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

I just use Autosol on any metal i want to clean up, hasn't failed yet.


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## VdoubleU (Oct 15, 2012)

Wow good result! I thought it would just look cleaner not chrome!

Like you say it would take a long time on the whole engine probably take a few days to do it all


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## ceejay (Apr 21, 2012)

Mr. CRD said:


>


I've got a load of parts that look like this at least or worse, on my 100,000+ BMW. The rest of the bay comes up great with the normal products but I never knew how to tackle stuff like in your picture.

Please keep us posted how it comes up, I for one am definitely interested in your results.

Thanks
CJ


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## chris_786 (Feb 20, 2010)

Bump for this, I have no idea where to start on my engine that looks like this...


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## blenki (Apr 28, 2012)

Wouldn't mind some tips too


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## Ming (Oct 16, 2007)

You will practically never get all the alloy pitting and corrosion off with the parts still on the car.
I have done all sorts of old engine bays and you can make a massive difference with scotchbrite and solvo autosolv (or similar ) on a tooth brush. Its slow and dirty but the results will show through. 
If it can come off and is suitable then powder coating is the ONLY way to go. It takes no cleaning other than a wipe with a damp cloth and last ages and ages and is pretty good with heat as well. (I have done turbo heat shields with reasonable success.)
Be patient and do one part at a time. The engine bay will start to pick up after a couple of sessions and if you are like me you will slowly but surely work down in to the bay removing stuff so you can clean underneath. :lol:
A FREE Astra








All I used was the above and a can of silicone spray and a few cloths.









My GTO. This IMHO really shows what powder coating can dso. I purchased as many spares as I could find and submitted them for powder coating and then did a weekend swop

















Ming the Powder coat feind


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Ming the Awesome engine Bay....:thumb:


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## ceejay (Apr 21, 2012)

wow, now that is something...

was hoping to not have to remove anything from the car as its a daily driver but those powder coating pictures have got me pondering....:thumb:


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## spursfan (Aug 4, 2009)

Top work Ming , stunning engine bay :thumb:

Kev


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## Dazzawest (Mar 4, 2012)

autosmart do a alluminium cleaner not quite sure the name of it, it's a strong, i think acid based cleaner, spray on aggitate with a stiff brush and rinse off. really good stuff.


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## Ming (Oct 16, 2007)

ceejay said:


> wow, now that is something...
> 
> was hoping to not have to remove anything from the car as its a daily driver but those powder coating pictures have got me pondering....:thumb:


What I did was shop about and get some spare parts from a breaker. I got these cleaned and coated and then did a swop. this left me with a bunch of spares. as i was a member of the GTOUK owners club i just sorted the parts out for other owners on a swop basis. I reckon we did half the engine bays in the club.
My front rocker was black, silver, black with polished letters and finally Cadbury's purple. Each time i decided there was another part i wanted coating I begged borrowed or bought the part, coated it, swopped it and then returned or re used it!
I had a little honda for a few months and as I managed to source the spares for free the change cost me £40 (I did put a lot of work through the powder coaters.)


















No matter how much polishing I had done it would not have looked like the above and cleaning was no more than a damp cloth.

Ming the Powder coat fan


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## Scotty Pro (Nov 12, 2008)

The before and after pics above are awesome, take my hat off to you Ming, that is dedication of the highest order.


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## Ming (Oct 16, 2007)

Scotty Pro said:


> The before and after pics above are awesome, take my hat off to you Ming, that is dedication of the highest order.


Scotty.
I have always been a fan of clean engines, it harkens back to my motorcycle days, and the only reason my current car is not another show bay is that it is a diesel. Diesel engines, in my opinion, are just not pleasing to the eye. They are all pipes and pumps and stuff and look like they belong in a truck which lets be honest was wherev they started. I think even the manufactures see this which is why so many come with fancy plastic covers.
I have just bought my daughter a little Fiat Seicento and cannot wait to get my hands on the engine bay. She will probably never lift he bonnet, actually knowing my daughter like i do she probably will, but at least I will know it looks the part and I want to do it just for fun. I have already started sourcing parts, a fact Mr Ming thinks is hillarious.
I will of course have before and after pics.
Ming the Obsessive


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## Teale41 (Jan 7, 2011)

RaceGlazer said:


> AluBright will sort out pretty well all of the discoloured metal parts.
> 
> Many folks also buy JetLaq which is a heat resistant sealant for metal work


Bought both of these to try on my BMW Mini Cooper S, with a little bit of elbow grease the block has improved a lot, and has made a big difference on the intercooler horns.


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## Trophy#185 (Jan 28, 2008)

Raceglaze alubright is great stuff and easiest to use for pieces that are rough cast finish or you cant remove from bay/get at.

Brass wire brushes are a must aswell


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