# Not your typical AG UDS vs SRP thread (experts plz step in!)



## BlueSE3P (Oct 21, 2010)

Hey all, just made my intro here for those who haven't seen it :
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=2454276#post2454276

:thumb:

Now, I've experimented with some of the typical OTS products (Megs and the like) before having moved to Autoglym some years ago. Now, I realise that folks on DW seem to prefer the more exotic stuff (Menz, Poorboys etc) but in my country, AG is somewhat easier to get than these.

I've always been an avid SRP user, but I'm faced with an interesting situation!

- My RX-8 has some minor holograms on select areas of the car...it isn't bad, but I suspect it's from poor buffing technique. How you ask? Well let me clarify - this car is a Japanese import (used), and that job was done in Japan!! I'm gonna have to rectify this myself unless I board a boat and head down there 

- "Holograms" are in _select_ areas, e.g. the lower left of the hood/bonnet, rear half of the roof etc. None on the rear of the car, for example. I haven't had any luck snapping any pics of said holograms, but based on what I've seen on DW, it isn't as...."_bad_"....as some of the pics posted on here. In fact, in most daylight scenarios, it isn't always visible.

- I intend to start using a _PC7424_ by years end (_read: Xmas gift _:lol.....but until then, and until I get my technique down, I'm stuck with detailing my cars by hand.

- No. I haven't found any local "detailers" (_notice the quotations_? :lol: ) who understand what I'm looking for yet in terms of particular attention to detailing, hence the DiY approach

- *Now here's the QUESTION- AG UDS or AG SRP in my situation and why?* I saw the thread where SRP was one of the best at removing swirls by hand after 5 attempts. But what about UDS? I realise UDS doesn't get much love on DW, but it seemed to work fine on the Koup! Also, AG themselves say that the UDS is more suited to dealing with...

[autoglym guy's voice] "swirls and hologram effects" [/autoglym guy's voice]

*Would UDS help more because it has more fillers and oils to "hide" the blemished areas*? But UDS has like - ZERO cut

*OR*

Would SRP help more because it has a little more "cut" than the UDS, and also has fillers? *Would the marginal "cut" that the SRP has help smooth or work the edges of the micro scratches which form the holograms...and help the fillers work a little better?*


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## BlueSE3P (Oct 21, 2010)

I should add that I'm aware the SRP/EGP or SRP HDWax combo adds alot more* durability* than the UDS (supposedly a standalone), but durability is NOT a big deal for me with the 8, since that car is barely used - more like a garage queen :lol:

And YES - I've used the search button many times!


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## uruk hai (Apr 5, 2009)

Welcome to the site ! A while back I was speaking to a AG rep at a car show and he explained to me that the UDS was a good product to use on darker colour cars as it contains more opitical fillers and masks more of the minor swirls and scratches that seem to be more noticeable on dark colours.


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Tey've got the same level of cut according to ag. Uds is great by machine on dark colours and other waxes *do* bond fine to uds in my experience.


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## BlueSE3P (Oct 21, 2010)

^^Yep...thanks folks. I saw a post by the forum's AG rep - where he explained that HDWax could be used after a few days of letting the UDS "settle"...something about greasy patches showing up on occasion in humid climates if the car didn't have a proper secondary buff with an MF after initial UDS removal.

Buuuuuuttttt.....isn't SRP touted as being one of the best here on DW?

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=10656

Did SRP work becasue of fillers only, OR fillers AND cut?

I wonder if *Dave KG* might grace my post


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

I like srp too but uds looks betteron darker colours, leave uds on for 24 hours then wax.


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## PugIain (Jun 28, 2006)

SRP is a good product.Its my favourite hand polish,not only is it easy to use and gives good results.It can be used by hand or machine and is easily available.Also technically its an all in one,it cleans and provides a modicum of protection.Although doesnt last that long if it isnt topped with a wax.


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## BlueSE3P (Oct 21, 2010)

^^true....it's a temporary remedy I'm looking for sir! Any thoughts on how SRP might stack up against UDS on holograms (forgetting the dark colour thing for a second)?

I see folks said that UDS seemed hard to use - but honestly, while SRP _is_ indeed easier to buff out, UDS really wasn't that bad...or that dusty! I used it sparingly of course.

BTW, what should I use to apply the polish? I use the AG PP cotton cloths, plus I have some Megs MF's lying around. But what about the LC foam "hand pads"?


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## PugIain (Jun 28, 2006)

I use foam hand pads,Or german applicators.
On the holograms you could try it on a polishing pad see how it fairs,then maybe upto a cutting pad.But Im not a machining expert.


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## Mini One Cabrio (Mar 9, 2007)

I have used both SRP and UDS on my Black Eye Purple MINI amongst a whole range of more exotic stuff (DODO, Zymol etc... ) and I have found that as an AIO on the MINI the UDS fills noticably better than SRP and then top it off with a wax/sealant of choice

Paul


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## BlueSE3P (Oct 21, 2010)

^^Many MANY thanks!! That's exactly the kinda response I was looking for!

Out of curiosity, what kinda of sealant/LSP did you use? I have both the EGP and HDWax in hand...can't decide which.

Also, did you let the UDS finish "settle" as I had mentioned earlier? Or used your LSP right away?


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## A.B (Feb 8, 2010)

http://smcgoldenwax.blogspot.com/2009/11/hand-waxing-on-bad-condition-slk.html
i just read that found it from a post on this site...


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## BlueSE3P (Oct 21, 2010)

Amazing comparo! SRP on the left, UDS on the right.


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## A.B (Feb 8, 2010)

just bought a bottle of uds from the sales section so ill try it some time this week.
I used to use it at work and i found it was easy to remove unless to much was applied


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## Autoglym (Apr 10, 2008)

Good photo above. UDS has more fill than SRP, UDS sometimes comes under fire as SRP is incredibly easy to use, it is never hard to buff off, whereas UDS can set harder if left on a panel for a long time. They have a similar level of 'cut'


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## BlueSE3P (Oct 21, 2010)

> whereas UDS can set harder if left on a panel for a long time.


Yep I agree! I tried to work in sections of a given panel (e.g. the roof) with the UDS on the Kia...rather than say, giving the whole roof a go in one shot. It was a little tougher to remove than the SRP,and it REALLY needs to have that second buff with an MF cloth...otherwise it leaves a strange looking haze in some areas.


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## pete5570 (Jun 11, 2010)

UDS is a great product, doesn't get mentioned on here very much. Very easy to use if you do a panel at time. Great results with a rotary or by hand.


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

pete5570 said:


> UDS is a great product, doesn't get mentioned on here very much. Very easy to use if you do a panel at time. Great results with a rotary or by hand.


There's a lot of good products get overlooked on here because of the name and price. I did all my door jambs and under bonnt paintwork with turtlewax nanotech polishing wax and the finish was as good hand as uds it's a great AIO imho.


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## Jimmy The Saint (Sep 19, 2010)

Will EGP bond to UDP as well as it does to SRP? 

Acronymtastic


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## billyp (Jul 24, 2010)

I know uds is meant to be a stand alone product but i'm another who has used it on my black e46 and always topped it with hd wax never had any problems with this and was always happy with the result of both conceiling marks and the deep gloss left


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## twissler (Apr 6, 2009)

Jimmy The Saint said:


> Will EGP bond to UDP as well as it does to SRP?
> 
> Acronymtastic


No. EGP is designed to work on top of SRP, they are a combo if you like. I think EGP on top of UDS won't work at all. You might have more success with a waxbut sealants won't like UDS IMO.


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## pete5570 (Jun 11, 2010)

There are some new sealants that will go over most products. EGP has been around a long time and is old tech really. Look at C2 or similar, these are less fussy. Still rate EGP though.


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Egp sits fine on uds if you leave it to set for a while


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## uruk hai (Apr 5, 2009)

EGP bonds very well to a lot of things :thumb:


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## Hoppo32 (Nov 18, 2008)

bigmc said:


> Egp sits fine on uds if you leave it to set for a while


How do you know it's the EGP thats creating the beading and not the UDS?
A lot of the time the EGP will just buff off leaving just the UDS as they dont bond well. Even AG themselves advise not to use the two together.


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Because i've got uds only on my bonnet as its dented and awaiting replacement and the beading isn't as good.


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## BlueSE3P (Oct 21, 2010)

^^Sounds good. Given the responses I've seen elsewhere, I think I'll experiment with the HDWax first on the UDS application (after letting it sit of course).

I'll leave the EGP for use on the other cars that will be using more of the SRP stuff.

Here's the DW AG rep's take on the issue:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1023350&postcount=8



Autoglym UK said:


> *Answer*
> HD Wax is not incompatible with UDS, but it is more compatible with SRP (do I sound like a politician?). UDS and SRP are very different formulations. SRP leaves a 'drier' finish and UDS a 'wetter' finish. We always recommend a final buff with a Hi-Tech Finishing Cloth when using UDS to remove any excess silicone. On a couple of occasions in the Southern hemisphere, we have had reports of patches of UDS appearing some 24 hours after a vehicle has been polished. You don't notice these at the time of removing UDS and they only appear in certain climatic conditions if the car has not had a final buff and they easily wipe off with a microfibre. *However, if you were to apply HD on top of UDS without giving it a comprehensive final buff you might find that any excess silicone would not mix well with the wax and could compromise the finish*. So to sum up (bet you wished you hadn't asked now!). SRP and HD Wax get on like a house on fire. UDS and HD Wax do get on, but please makes sure you take extra care to buff the UDS ensuring all the product has been removed and also leave approximately 24 hours in between UDS and HDWax to give the polish time to settle and to ensure that all polish has been removed.


After my first experiment with UDS on the Kia (black), I did see one or two small "odd" looking patches show up the morning after - the patches didn't look like there were polish remnants or anything, but more like "greasy spots" if you will. These spots were BARELY visible, and I had to really inspect the car at multiple angles to see it.

I'd attribute that most likely to me missing some spots during my final buff with an MF. The "grease" is most likely some excess silicone alluded to above. Had I done a layer of HDwax ontop of the UDS immediately after I applied it (keeping in mind I had missed those two odd spots), that may have left a strange finish when mixed with the HDWax.

Once those are sorted out, HD wax really shouldn't be an issue. If I do get around to doing it, I'll let you guys know.


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## DetailMyCar (Apr 19, 2010)

I detailed my friends Honda S2000 and decided to try AG SRP via machine and i couldn't believe how well it worked:



















This is before waxing (SRP Only)!


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## Jimmy The Saint (Sep 19, 2010)

nickg123 said:


> I detailed my friends Honda S2000 and decided to try AG SRP via machine and i couldn't believe how well it worked:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bloody hell!  Huuuuuge difference

What machine and pad did you use?


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## DetailMyCar (Apr 19, 2010)

Jimmy The Saint said:


> Bloody hell!  Huuuuuge difference
> 
> What machine and pad did you use?


That was my DAS-6 Pro machine, and an Sonus SFX-2 Pad!


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## Jimmy The Saint (Sep 19, 2010)

Unbelievable. Is that purely 'fill' or is the Honda paint soft enough that SRP can be used for correction? 

Could that level of finish (albeit temporary) be achieved on much harder paint?


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

You'll get some correction on hard paint if it's worked properly.


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## DetailMyCar (Apr 19, 2010)

Jimmy The Saint said:


> Unbelievable. Is that purely 'fill' or is the Honda paint soft enough that SRP can be used for correction?
> 
> Could that level of finish (albeit temporary) be achieved on much harder paint?


Yeah the Honda paint was so soft i was actually able to get decent levels of correction with it! I don't think it would have hardly any correction on my VW paint or BMW etc...

It still shocked me though, it worked wonders in my opinion - It was like a completely different product when using with a machine.


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## twissler (Apr 6, 2009)

SRP always amazes me. I don't know why i'm always so impressed with it because i've been using it for years now! It's one of those products I will always have .


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