# Sticky  The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!



## Junkman2008

That's right boys and girls, The Junkman has went and made paint correction so easy, a caveman could do it! In the following videos, I cover the entire process from start to finish.

If you have ever been apprehensive about using a machine to rid your paint of scratches and swirls, you will definitely not be worried after watching this video series. I break it down to a level where a 10 year old can watch these videos and start fixing paint. The supplies and equipment that I use are readily available in the USA and abroad (for the most part except for the polisher. You guys abroad, you want to get yourself a DAS-6 Pro). If you have a serious desire to finally fix your paint and about 1 hour and 54 minutes, then this video is totally for you. After you have watched this video, you will not believe how easy I have made this.

So sit back and get out some popcorn, kick up your feet and enjoy. The Junkman is about to burst onto your screen in a way that only the Junkman can! :thumbsup:

Here are your before and after shots, which won't make a lot of sense until you have watched the videos, especially when you see how the number "2" ended up in the paint!

BEFORE...










AFTER!










*This thread originally had 5 separate videos. I have combined ALL FIVE of them into ONE video with annotations that did not show up after Youtube got rid of the annotation feature. So now, the video goes into even more detail with the annotations inserted. If you have watched already, a second watch is going to enlighten you even more.*​






The Junkman :wave:


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## adamvr619

Brilliant as usual off the junkman cheers


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## VenomUK

Nice job


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## Frozzy

Watched all the videos excellent, hopefully be able to put method to practise in the coming weeks.


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## Junior Bear

Cool stuff


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## rob3rto

Gonna change from my current Menzerna pads to the Hex types.


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## 3R PROJECT

Been around the world from Monday to Sunday Y'all the same folk we see in Kentucky ....it must mean.... The whole dang world is country !!!! Nice work man ! Very helpful and detailed . I am sure many will benefit from this .


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## Junkman2008

Thanks for watching mates! :wave:


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## G4V JW

Excellent , well explained , Picked up some wicked tips :thumb:


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## jlw41

Great Videos junkman


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## Junkman2008

Thanks again, mates!


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## Mattodl

Thank you!


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## mnrjohn

funny and informative.... typical junkman. keep em coming


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## BDJ

Awesome video.

Will you make another one, for rotary polishers in the future?


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## Junkman2008

BDJ said:


> Awesome video.
> 
> Will you make another one, for rotary polishers in the future?


Not for the rotary and here's why. A rotary polisher is not a machine you can learn how to use by watching a video. You can pick up a lot of pointers but that is a polisher that I would have to teach someone to use in person (and that's only if they were already experienced with a polisher like the Flex). Trying to learn how to use a rotary by video would be like trying to learn how to fly a plane by video. You can have everything that you are supposed to do memorized to perfection but actually FLYING a plane is a totally different animal.


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## DJ X-Ray

I used to watch your videos way back when.. junkman,respect due.


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## Junkman2008

Dj.xray said:


> I used to watch your videos way back when.. junkman,respect due.


I have a few more coming, stay tuned! :thumb:


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## spursfan

Very good as usual Junkman, my son Jake loves them:thumb:

Kev


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## Junkman2008

spursfan said:


> Very good as usual Junkman, my son Jake loves them:thumb:
> 
> Kev


Tell Jake I said, "Wassssuuuuuupp!" :lol:


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## tayash

Awesome vids! Cheers Junk Man! :thumb:


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## Exotica

Loved watching these , thanks.


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## Exotica

Any UK sellers, only see it here.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=310408088106


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## Junkman2008

Thanks mates. :thumb:


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## Junkman2008

Exotica said:


> Any UK sellers, only see it here.
> 
> http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=310408088106


You don't want the PC-7424XP, you want the Kestral DAS-6 Pro. It's the UK equivalent of the PC.


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## Exotica

:driver:


Junkman2008 said:


> You don't want the PC-7424XP, you want the Kestral DAS-6 Pro. It's the UK equivalent of the PC.


Thank you very much . Is this it?

http://www.chemicalguysuk.com/Chemical_Guys_Dual_Action_Polisher_Starter_Kit_p/cgdua.htm


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## Junkman2008

Exotica said:


> :driver:
> 
> Thank you very much . Is this it?
> 
> http://www.chemicalguysuk.com/Chemical_Guys_Dual_Action_Polisher_Starter_Kit_p/cgdua.htm


That looks like it but they don't provide any details about the polisher. This site and this site do.


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## Exotica

Thank you Sir.


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## Billy32

Great Vid. 
Going to take some good points away with me.


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## Junkman2008

Billy32 said:


> Great Vid.
> Going to take some good points away with me.


Leave some for the noobs!


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## R56MCS

Wow. This is my first post and I'd just like to say thankyou for a very insightful set of videos!

It has finally given the confidence to buy a DA and machine polish


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## Junkman2008

R56MCS said:


> Wow. This is my first post and I'd just like to say thankyou for a very insightful set of videos!
> 
> It has finally given the confidence to buy a DA and machine polish


What ya' been waiting on my friend? This is so easy, a cave man could do it! :lol:


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## Matt8

Watched this series of videos last night, great stuff junkman! 

I'm new to the site and a novice detailer and you've given me the confidence to get a machine polisher now. Look forward to watching the rest of your vids!


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## Baptist

Fantastic videos Mr Junkman!


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## Junkman2008

Thanks mates! Simplicity is the goal I shoot for when it comes to this type of work. For you guys in the UK, remember that you want the Kestrel DAS-6 Pro instead of the Porter-Cable 7424XP. The Kestrel is a UK based polisher that is close to identical to the PC.


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## steve1975

Junkman2008 said:


> Thanks for watching mates! :wave:


brilliant stuff...keep up the good work :wave:


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## Exotica

To add cleanyourcar.co.uk is doing this machine for £99.95 delivered


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## Junior Bear

You make it quite clear that you prefer waffle weave towels for removing or buffing off liquid wax residue. Which ones do you Reccomend? 


And why?


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## Junkman2008

Junior Bear said:


> You make it quite clear that you prefer waffle weave towels for removing or buffing off liquid wax residue. Which ones do you Reccomend?
> 
> And why?


Because plush towels do nothing but drink up liquids and push them around the surface of the car. The waffle weave towels drink up the liquids and hold on to them. They don't push it around the surface of the car. I'm looking for another source for those towels. I'm checking into towelpros.com right now but the jury is still out.

EDIT: I ended up choosing The Rag Company for towels. They are available in the UK. See this thread.


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## DJ X-Ray

Junkman2008 said:


> Because plush towels do nothing but drink up liquids and push them around the surface of the car. The waffle weave towels drink up the liquids and hold on to them. They don't push it around the surface of the car. I'm looking for another source for those towels. I'm checking into towelpros.com right now but the jury is still out.


^^That's food for thought


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## Minuki

Brilliant, absolutely brilliant.

I have never used an Orbital Polisher before because I feared of ruining the paint, but now I feel confident enough to go out and give it a try. 

Is there a polisher you would recommend to someone in the UK? From my limited knowledge, I believe the one you use is only sold in America.

Also, what clay bar are you using?


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## Junkman2008

Minuki said:


> Brilliant, absolutely brilliant.
> 
> I have never used an Orbital Polisher before because I feared of ruining the paint, but now I feel confident enough to go out and give it a try.
> 
> Is there a polisher you would recommend to someone in the UK? From my limited knowledge, I believe the one you use is only sold in America.
> 
> Also, what clay bar are you using?


The polisher that you want to get is the Kestrel DAS-6 Pro, which is available online at a few different sites. It is just like the polisher I used in these videos. As for clay, what I used is manufactured by Clay Magic. They are the only clay manufacturer in America right now. You have different choices in the UK.


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## greasehog

Awesome video thanks junkman


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## AdnanKhan

It is just a massive coincidence that I happened to watch your video today and find this thread here on DW. You are a genius dude. I also saw your video where you mentioned the midnight blue (I think) polish which said it's 'specially formulated for dark coloured vehicles'. You made perfect sense to me man and now I look at products very differently. Keep the funk real. 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


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## Junkman2008

greasehog said:


> Awesome video thanks junkman





AdnanKhan said:


> It is just a massive coincidence that I happened to watch your video today and find this thread here on DW. You are a genius dude. I also saw your video where you mentioned the midnight blue (I think) polish which said it's 'specially formulated for dark coloured vehicles'. You made perfect sense to me man and now I look at products very differently. Keep the funk real.


Thanks mates! Will do AdnanKhan. :thumb:


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## jmoore

Very helpful, many thanks!!


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## Cat Face

These videos are great, amazing work!


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## 3dom

Man, I loved these videos and I'm just about to grab some food and watch the engine detailing one :thumb:

Loved the train horn in the background and that El Camino is superb 

Don't fake the funk!!


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## Junkman2008

jmoore said:


> Very helpful, many thanks!!





Cat Face said:


> These videos are great, amazing work!





3dom said:


> Man, I loved these videos and I'm just about to grab some food and watch the engine detailing one :thumb:
> 
> Loved the train horn in the background and that El Camino is superb
> 
> Don't fake the funk!!


Thanks mates! That train horn blows so much that I don't even hear it in my sleep. That's downtown city living for ya'!


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## Rumtumtum

Junkman, outstanding truly outstanding.
Since watching this, as i am in tke UK, I have purchased the Pro 6 but as I was still a bit hesitant I went to a scrap yard and pick up some old doors and boots to practice on. I should not have bothered. I followed your video and got amazing results first time on an old beat up piece of boot.
I have a couple of questions though as I am truly a novice. I understand that I don't want to keep using the 105 because of its cutting powers but now my car is looking at its best I don't need to. But! How often can I machine polish? As the 205, even though it's a finishing polish, does have cutting powers will it eventually wear away the clear coat?
I know these questions may be silly but I've got to learn somehow.

Once again great video(s)

Cheers.


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## Aps-direct

Great. Just great videos, advice.


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## Junkman2008

Rumtumtum said:


> Junkman, outstanding truly outstanding.
> Since watching this, as i am in tke UK, I have purchased the Pro 6 but as I was still a bit hesitant I went to a scrap yard and pick up some old doors and boots to practice on. I should not have bothered. I followed your video and got amazing results first time on an old beat up piece of boot.
> I have a couple of questions though as I am truly a novice. I understand that I don't want to keep using the 105 because of its cutting powers but now my car is looking at its best I don't need to. But! How often can I machine polish? As the 205, even though it's a finishing polish, does have cutting powers will it eventually wear away the clear coat?
> I know these questions may be silly but I've got to learn somehow.
> 
> Once again great video(s)
> 
> Cheers.


Thanks for watching mates. 

To answer your question, M205 is NOT going to go through any clear coat fast with the machine you are using. It is what I use whenever I need to address any scratches in my paint. It is a VERY light polish. However, that is not what you need to be worrying about. You need to be worrying about how NOT to create any scratches at all. If you are still worried about removing a lot of clear coat, you need to visit this thread.


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## Rumtumtum

Sorry, I may not have been clear in my initial post. I totally agree and understand that the way forward, from here, is to keep the paint work in good condition so minimal cutting is required but what I was wondering is, now that my paint is looking good should I continue with the M205 or is there another product I should be considering as now I am only trying to maintain the shine?

Cheers.


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## Junkman2008

Like I said in my above post, M205 is what I use whenever I need to address any damage in my paint at this point. It is what I use to maintain my shine.


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## suspal

Junkman waiting on the next insallment of the brother in his garage production lol


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## adolfitovr6

Thanks i going aply something new


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## Junkman2008

suspal said:


> Junkman waiting on the next insallment of the brother in his garage production lol


A couple of new videos are in my mind right now. I'll be putting them on video when I get my camera back from the repair shop.


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## Tempah

Signed up specifically to reply on this thread to let you know how you've helped.

I bought a DAS-6 for using on my car. Tried it on a few cars using HEXLOGIC pads and M105 and M205. Was making the car shine but wasnt removing any scratches no matter how i tried.
Quite honestly, the DA was getting thrown in the nearest pond if i had the chance i was that annoyed at spending the money and getting no results.

Until i seen your video.

Iv been putting alot of polish on the pads. I mean, ALOT of polish. My theory was too much polish will help, Did it hell! Basically i had a lump of polish with a tiny bit of foam pad somewhere in amongst it.

The speed was maybe a bit too fast and a few other pointers answered a few questions for me aswell. I would say the video helped because it was like standing with your buddy and him explaining whats what in simple terms rather than formulas and potions that people seem to like to use to make themselves seem more superior.

So a genuine thankyou and a well done for taking the time to do these videos.

Iv certainly learnt that less is more now in terms of polish.

Thanks again, Take care.


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## john90

Yea big thank you from me too. Had read many articals on what to do but as they say a picture is worth a thousand words and a video a million!! I've never done any machine polishing but have the confidence to do so now when I get my DA for Xmas.

Many thanks Junkman and Merry Christmas :thumbup:


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## Junkman2008

Tempah said:


> Signed up specifically to reply on this thread to let you know how you've helped.
> 
> I bought a DAS-6 for using on my car. Tried it on a few cars using HEXLOGIC pads and M105 and M205. Was making the car shine but wasnt removing any scratches no matter how i tried.
> Quite honestly, the DA was getting thrown in the nearest pond if i had the chance i was that annoyed at spending the money and getting no results.
> 
> Until i seen your video.
> 
> Iv been putting alot of polish on the pads. I mean, ALOT of polish. My theory was too much polish will help, Did it hell! Basically i had a lump of polish with a tiny bit of foam pad somewhere in amongst it.
> 
> The speed was maybe a bit too fast and a few other pointers answered a few questions for me aswell. I would say the video helped because it was like standing with your buddy and him explaining whats what in simple terms rather than formulas and potions that people seem to like to use to make themselves seem more superior.
> 
> So a genuine thankyou and a well done for taking the time to do these videos.
> 
> Iv certainly learnt that less is more now in terms of polish.
> 
> Thanks again, Take care.


Mate, you are the exact audience that I target with my videos. Thanks for letting me know that they helped. You are correct, less IS more and when you understand why, it completely makes sense. Thanks for posting as others will benefit from your experience. :thumb:



john90 said:


> Yea big thank you from me too. Had read many articals on what to do but as they say a picture is worth a thousand words and a video a million!! I've never done any machine polishing but have the confidence to do so now when I get my DA for Xmas.
> 
> Many thanks Junkman and Merry Christmas :thumbup:


Thanks mate! Be sure and let me know how your experience goes. Merry Christmas to you and your family! :wave:


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## Rumtumtum

Cheers and thanks again.


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## BlackLightning

This guy is excellent! Such a fun character to watch with so much knowledge and such clarity in his explanations. Thank you VERY much, mate!


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## Junkman2008

BlackLightning said:


> This guy is excellent! Such a fun character to watch with so much knowledge and such clarity in his explanations. Thank you VERY much, mate!


Thank YOU for watching sir!


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## Turkish_

About to get started with the PC tomorrow for the first time. Great in depth video series for all us beginners. 

Bit of a hero!

*Personal favourite - jumping on the bonnet and doing a little dance...


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## dave-

Hi Junkman, when are you making some more vids ? I love your polishing vids


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## Junkman2008

My bonnet dancing days are getting far and few. Climbing up there is a little work for us old guys! lol!

Make sure that you take some before and after pictures. I want to see how well you do. :thumb:



dave- said:


> Hi Junkman, when are you making some more vids ? I love your polishing vids


Once you can recite everything in the videos that I have made from memory, I'll start some new ones.


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## Wayno

Brilliant to watch. Great video's


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## Junkman2008

Wayno said:


> Brilliant to watch. Great video's


Thanks for watching and welcome to the forum mate.


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## Wayno

Junkman2008 said:


> Thanks for watching and welcome to the forum mate.


Junkman, I've sat and watched all your video's. Like its been mentioned already, its like having your mate explain it all to you.

I love the line "Don't fake the funk" Brilliant mate.

I don't have the DAS-6 but have instead purchased the Dodo Juice DA, and have the important Hexlogic pads, Orange, Green, White, Black & Red plus the 105/205 polishes.

I tried the Green/105 combo initially on my Focus RS but the swirls on my roof aren't shifting (Previous Owner Damage) on speed of 6 and slow travel. 
So I'm going to try the Orange/105 combo next on speed 5 and keep the slow travel (As per your video) and see how the roof comes up.

Thanks again for the 24 hour uploads :thumb:

Question though for your opinion - In a Chemical Guys video (Audi Q7 being polished) its mentioned that the polisher should be run on speed of 6.

They also mention that towards the end of the 'flashing' process lighten the pressure to allow a little more 'free spin' as it helps add lustre in the paint, what do you think?


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## Junkman2008

Wayno said:


> ... So I'm going to try the Orange/105 combo next on speed 5 and keep the slow travel (As per your video) and see how the roof comes up.


Let me know what happens. Make sure that you do it EXACTLY as I do it. Do not use too much polish.


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## philz

Junkman, just wanted to say thanks for making these videos. Really informative and I'm loving your way of explaining everything!

Thanks


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## iPlod999

These are the only in depth videos I can watch without losing interest. 

Enjoying your great work. 

You need more bbq videos. Although my BBQ's are great.


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## Junkman2008

philz said:


> Junkman, just wanted to say thanks for making these videos. Really informative and I'm loving your way of explaining everything!
> 
> Thanks


Thanks for watching.


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## KeithOPC

Great video junksman well put together and detailed as it comes for the novice detailer. Looking forward to looking at your other videos for some tips. 

Thanks again and look forward to future vids. :thumb:


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## Junkman2008

KeithOPC said:


> Great video junksman well put together and detailed as it comes for the novice detailer. Looking forward to looking at your other videos for some tips.
> 
> Thanks again and look forward to future vids. :thumb:


Thanks and welcome to the forum!


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## T.D.K

This is a fantastic series of videos that really S.P.E.L.L.S everything out for the novice.

I did buy a machine polisher last year and my attempts on a practice panel were abysmal because my technique was completely flawed.

I feel much more confident now, I will buy another machine, the orange and white pads and the same polishers and will use your technique.

A million thanks for taking the time to make these videos. :thumb:


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## Junkman2008

Thanks for watching! Be sure and post back up with your results. I'd love to see the outcome.


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## Luke3

Thanks for putting a lot of time and effort into these videos, they've really made it clear for novices such as me, I brought a machine a few days ago, and these give me great confidence in using it!

Enjoyed the humour in the videos as well! 

Thank you!


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## MikeyD

Thanks, great video's - off to practice on my wife car first  

Cheers


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## Junkman2008

Luke3 said:


> Thanks for putting a lot of time and effort into these videos, they've really made it clear for novices such as me, I brought a machine a few days ago, and these give me great confidence in using it!
> 
> Enjoyed the humour in the videos as well!
> 
> Thank you!





MikeyD said:


> Thanks, great video's - off to practice on my wife car first
> 
> Cheers


Thanks for watching mates!


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## Wayno

Junkman, as you stated in one of your video's, people aren't following your technique, and getting poor results. 

Well today I did, Orange 5.5 Hexlogic, 4 pea drops of M105 on a speed of 5 with good pressure, and the results were great. 

The light & medium swirls and scratches have gone, and all that's left is a few deeper scratches that will require wet sanding. 
But, I'm very happy with the correction and won't be going to that degree. 

Then, White Hexlogic 5.5, 4 pea drops of M205, speed of 5 and good pressure and my paint has come up lovely. 

Then added some PB Blackhole with Foam Applicator for glaze, PB EX with Hexlogic Black 5.5 on speed of 2.5 for sealant, and CG Butter Wet Wax with foam applicator. 

Thanks again.


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## Junkman2008

Wayno said:


> Junkman, as you stated in one of your video's, people aren't following your technique, and getting poor results.
> 
> Well today I did, Orange 5.5 Hexlogic, 4 pea drops of M105 on a speed of 5 with good pressure, and the results were great.
> 
> The light & medium swirls and scratches have gone, and all that's left is a few deeper scratches that will require wet sanding.
> But, I'm very happy with the correction and won't be going to that degree.
> 
> Then, White Hexlogic 5.5, 4 pea drops of M205, speed of 5 and good pressure and my paint has come up lovely.
> 
> Then added some PB Blackhole with Foam Applicator for glaze, PB EX with Hexlogic Black 5.5 on speed of 2.5 for sealant, and CG Butter Wet Wax with foam applicator.
> 
> Thanks again.


You're welcome. However, you got part of the technique wrong. The only time that you use 4 pea-sized drops is tp prime a new or clean pad. Once the pad has been primed, you only use 3 pea-sized drops from that point forward.


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## Wayno

Junkman2008 said:


> You're welcome. However, you got part of the technique wrong. The only time that you use 4 pea-sized drops is tp prime a new or clean pad. Once the pad has been primed, you only use 3 pea-sized drops from that point forward.


Sorry mate, I forgot to mention that bit. I did do that. 4 to begin with to prime it, and then 3 drops when required. 
I made notes from your video :thumb:

I found that there was enough polish on the pad for 2/3 panels each time, so didn't waste product and made it go further. Paint under artificial light is like glass.


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## nick_mcuk

I am no novice but have watched your videos...brilliant stuff Junkman....thoroughly enjoyable and educational.

Nice one!


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## Junkman2008

Wayno said:


> ... I made notes from your video :thumb:


Smart man. 



nick_mcuk said:


> I am no novice but have watched your videos...brilliant stuff Junkman....thoroughly enjoyable and educational.
> 
> Nice one!


Thanks Nick.


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## Sim

Really enjoyed this, thanks for taking the time


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## A9X SJ

Cracking video's ordered my das-6 Pro last week wish I had watched this video 1st before I also ordered Meguiars pads rather than the Hex ones


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## Junkman2008

A9X SJ said:


> Cracking video's ordered my das-6 Pro last week wish I had watched this video 1st before I also ordered Meguiars pads rather than the Hex ones


You can still get good results with them. Be sure and let me know how it goes. :thumb:


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## Jan van Zyl

Junkman - thank you very much for the time and trouble. But now - after the M205: if you wanted to go further - how would you proceed? Start with M105 again? Another round of M205 rather? When does one decide about wet sanding or even hand sanding on a particular spot e.g. The "2"? Is there any merit in experimenting with say M205 on an orange pad or M105 on a white pad? 

Thank you in advance !!


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## stevo260

Junkman your a Legend. There is so many differing opinions on what to use and what to do it gets really confusing. I love the fact that you have taken the time to help all the novices(me included) in sensible advice and guidance. It gives me much more confidence and I'm really looking forward to having a go myself. My wife has bought me loads of stuff for xmas :argie: see attachment and I'm no longer as daunted to give it a go.

Thanks again for your time and patience :thumb:

Just waiting for my back to get sorted then I'll be going for it :buffer:


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## Junkman2008

Jan van Zyl said:


> Junkman - thank you very much for the time and trouble. But now - after the M205: if you wanted to go further - how would you proceed? Start with M105 again? Another round of M205 rather? When does one decide about wet sanding or even hand sanding on a particular spot e.g. The "2"? Is there any merit in experimenting with say M205 on an orange pad or M105 on a white pad?
> 
> Thank you in advance !!


Okay, you need to go back and watch this series again. You have missed a clear understanding of what you saw. I say that because of the questions that you are asking. If you fully understood what you saw, these are not questions that you would be asking. Did you skip through the videos by chance? If so, you missed a LOT of information. Watch the entire series again and see if you still have these questions.



stevo260 said:


> Junkman your a Legend. There is so many differing opinions on what to use and what to do it gets really confusing. I love the fact that you have taken the time to help all the novices(me included) in sensible advice and guidance. It gives me much more confidence and I'm really looking forward to having a go myself. My wife has bought me loads of stuff for xmas :argie: see attachment and I'm no longer as daunted to give it a go.
> 
> Thanks again for your time and patience :thumb:
> 
> Just waiting for my back to get sorted then I'll be going for it :buffer:


Wow, your wife must kinda like you a little bit!  :thumb:


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## davrob

sat and watched all your videos,fantastic ,great information ,ive nearly got all my gear to get started ,just a couple of other things and some decent weather and i will get started.:thumb:


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## Junkman2008

davrob said:


> sat and watched all your videos,fantastic ,great information ,ive nearly got all my gear to get started ,just a couple of other things and some decent weather and i will get started.:thumb:


Welcome to the forum. :thumb:


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## Saamm93

I've got to say I loved those videos. Sat and watched everyone back to back. Really helpful and made me laugh too 

The only thing is now I want a DA more then I did before

Massive thanks


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## Junkman2008

Saamm93 said:


> I've got to say I loved those videos. Sat and watched everyone back to back. Really helpful and made me laugh too
> 
> The only thing is now I want a DA more then I did before
> 
> Massive thanks


Thanks for watching. Make sure you read through the comments in this thread so that you get the correct DA. :wave:


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## JARS

Great work Junkman. :thumb: Very informative with the odd bit of comedy kept my watching!! 

Hmmmmm I'm now questioning whether to pick up a rotary again. I bought it 2 years ago and machined my entire car. No strike through or dramas but was not 100% confident and not used it since .... decisions decisions!!!


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## Junkman2008

JARS said:


> Great work Junkman. :thumb: Very informative with the odd bit of comedy kept my watching!!
> 
> Hmmmmm I'm now questioning whether to pick up a rotary again. I bought it 2 years ago and machined my entire car. No strike through or dramas but was not 100% confident and not used it since .... decisions decisions!!!


A rotary should never be used if you are not 100% on how to use it. You are just asking for drama! :doublesho


----------



## Barchettaman

Junkman, you´re a legend.
I´m lookin´ forward to takin´the freeway to shineville!

Classic vid, thanks for taking the time to put it together.


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks for watching mate.


----------



## DannyMair

Just sat and watched all the videos. Packed full of great information and Junkman always makes his videos worth watching


----------



## Junkman2008

DannyMair said:


> Just sat and watched all the videos. Packed full of great information and Junkman always makes his videos worth watching


Thanks for watching and welcome to the forum! :wave:


----------



## Ruby's Dad

Junkman, you're the best! Just sat through all 5 videos and have learnt soooo much. Thanks for taking the time to post these up here.


----------



## Junkman2008

Ruby's Dad said:


> Junkman, you're the best! Just sat through all 5 videos and have learnt soooo much. Thanks for taking the time to post these up here.


Thanks for watching! :thumb:


----------



## cmillsjoe

big thanks for the videos junkman , i had fear using a da on my car but after watching im looking forward to it


----------



## Junkman2008

cmillsjoe said:


> big thanks for the videos junkman , i had fear using a da on my car but after watching im looking forward to it


Be sure to drop back in and let me know how it goes. :thumb:


----------



## pharmed

As above, thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos.


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks for watching.


----------



## Danman

Junkman2008 said:


> Thanks for watching.


I've got all you vids ready to watch for when I take the plunge and get a machine polisher!


----------



## Junkman2008

I call it 'taking the red pill'. Those videos are going to take you to Wonderland and show you just how deep the rabbit hole goes.


----------



## cmillsjoe

your crazy junkman and i love it


----------



## Junkman2008

cmillsjoe said:


> your crazy junkman and i love it


:thumb:


----------



## Callummarshall

Thanks, followed your videos and got the result i wanted!! 

Spot on keep it up!


----------



## carl450

I watched your video series and Im going to have a go later in the year when it warms up a bit outside. 

My shopping list will be:
DAS 6 Pro DA 
Meguairs 105 & 205
Hex Logic Pads orange (x2) and white (x3) 5.5"
Backing plate 5"

Can anyone point me in the best place for the backing plate and pads though as I a little unsure which to buy (I don't want cheep imitation stuff) 
Are the soft/flexible backing plates best avoided as it looks like you have a solid plate in the videos?

Thanks Junkman!!!!


----------



## Junkman2008

Callummarshall said:


> Thanks, followed your videos and got the result i wanted!!
> 
> Spot on keep it up!


Thanks for the update. 



carl450 said:


> I watched your video series and Im going to have a go later in the year when it warms up a bit outside.
> 
> My shopping list will be:
> DAS 6 Pro DA
> Meguairs 105 & 205
> Hex Logic Pads orange (x2) and white (x3) 5.5"
> Backing plate 5"
> 
> Can anyone point me in the best place for the backing plate and pads though as I a little unsure which to buy (I don't want cheep imitation stuff)
> Are the soft/flexible backing plates best avoided as it looks like you have a solid plate in the videos?
> 
> Thanks Junkman!!!!


With my technique, it doesn't matter which back plate you use because you are not applying enough pressure for it to make any difference whatsoever. That's the beauty of my technique. It doesn't wear out pads and the back plate is a non-issue.

As for obtaining the pads and the back plate, you can simply check out Chemical Guys - UK.


----------



## teamdirtydog

Nearly watched all the brother in his garage productions now 
They are great fun and very clear thanks for creating!

Sent from my S3 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Junkman2008

teamdirtydog said:


> Nearly watched all the brother in his garage productions now
> They are great fun and very clear thanks for creating!
> 
> Sent from my S3 using Tapatalk 2


Thanks for watching.


----------



## stevo260

After watching all your vids I plucked up the courage and had a go myself, the results are here
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=297122
I'm not sure i'd of had the confidence to try if i'dnot seen them
Thanks Junkman


----------



## Junkman2008

stevo260 said:


> After watching all your vids I plucked up the courage and had a go myself, the results are here
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=297122
> I'm not sure i'd of had the confidence to try if i'dnot seen them
> Thanks Junkman


You had some really good results for a first timer! :thumb:


----------



## 550_VRS

ahh no bull productions with a bit of humour ... nice one junkman .. great vids


----------



## Junkman2008

550_VRS said:


> ahh no bull productions with a bit of humour ... nice one junkman .. great vids


Thank you mate. :wave:


----------



## neilb62

Just ordered some 105 + 205. Thanks for the video's, inspiring stuff...:thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

neilb62 said:


> Just ordered some 105 + 205. Thanks for the video's, inspiring stuff...:thumb:


Make sure that you check back in and let me know how it goes. :thumb:


----------



## neilb62

Junkman2008 said:


> Make sure that you check back in and let me know how it goes. :thumb:


Well its a 4 year old 5-Series, I'm not expecting miracles with a DA, but I'll keep in touch.... :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

neilb62 said:


> Well its a 4 year old 5-Series, I'm not expecting miracles with a DA, but I'll keep in touch.... :thumb:


Take some before and after pictures. You may be surprised with the outcome.


----------



## Philliboy

Great vids mate, da, hex logic chemicals guys and megs 105/205 ordered for alabaster civic.

Can't wait to use now


----------



## Junkman2008

Philliboy said:


> Great vids mate, da, hex logic chemicals guys and megs 105/205 ordered for alabaster civic.
> 
> Can't wait to use now


Make sure to check back in with your results. :thumb:


----------



## twincamsir

awesome!!! ordering pads now and looking forwards to trying out your techniques


----------



## Junkman2008

All of the products and pads can be found in the UK except for the detail spray. Also, you can substitute the PC for the DAS-6 Pro.


----------



## twincamsir

first attempt, im definitely better than tiger woods at polishing now :buffer:



















:buffer:


----------



## Junkman2008

If I could, I would put a star on your post like we use to get in school as kids! That's definitely better than Tiger! :thumb:


----------



## torque777

Allready got a das - 6 pro last year and had a go ....but just spent the last few days watching your videos junkman and am now raring to go on our 2007 metallic blue jetta that hasn't been polished since new ....no real scratches or dents ..just light scratching on clear coat and swirls aplenty lol ....been and bought another 20L bucket also today so can start two bucket method ...best instructional videos ive seen 

sent using my own fingers


----------



## Junkman2008

torque777 said:


> Allready got a das - 6 pro last year and had a go ....but just spent the last few days watching your videos junkman and am now raring to go on our 2007 metallic blue jetta that hasn't been polished since new ....no real scratches or dents ..just light scratching on clear coat and swirls aplenty lol ....been and bought another 20L bucket also today so can start two bucket method ...best instructional videos ive seen
> 
> sent using my own fingers


Well be sure and post some before and after pictures. I would love to see your results. :thumb:


----------



## torque777

Will do junkman

sent using my own fingers


----------



## Neri

Awesome videos, Junkman! Really good!!! Btw... people from Brazil are also watching you!!!
Keep up the good word! =)


----------



## Junkman2008

Neri said:


> Awesome videos, Junkman! Really good!!! Btw... people from Brazil are also watching you!!!
> Keep up the good word! =)


Yes, I have had quite a few people from Brazil get in touch with me. I wish that I could afford to come visit! Brazilian women are the bomb! :thumb:


----------



## 8000C

Thank you Junkman! Big fan from Denmark. You've made me feel ready to detail my red Saab 900 '95 Coupe. Any special advice on polishing a red car?
I was also wondering if you would recommend an alternative for Garry Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice as it is hard to get in Denmark (and the rest of Europe!) and would cost me $103 for the little bottle with Danish taxes if I order it from the US.


----------



## Junkman2008

8000C said:


> Thank you Junkman! Big fan from Denmark. You've made me feel ready to detail my red Saab 900 '95 Coupe. Any special advice on polishing a red car?
> I was also wondering if you would recommend an alternative for Garry Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice as it is hard to get in Denmark (and the rest of Europe!) and would cost me $103 for the little bottle with Danish taxes if I order it from the US.


The color of your car has absolutely NOTHING to do with anything. Follow the instructions as I have laid out in the videos. As for detail spray, use whatever you can buy locally. The reason that I recommend IUDJ for US customers is because if the price. Obviously, the price is at a disadvantage to you. Get whatever you like using that is local to you.


----------



## 8000C

Junkman2008 said:


> The color of your car has absolutely NOTHING to do with anything. Follow the instructions as I have laid out in the videos. As for detail spray, use whatever you can buy locally. The reason that I recommend IUDJ for US customers is because if the price. Obviously, the price is at a disadvantage to you. Get whatever you like using that is local to you.


Wow, very quick reply! Thank you again. I hope to get started next week and will upload some images when I'm done  (In about 6 months, right ?)


----------



## DJ X-Ray

What's up junkman ? I'm with you on the brazilian chicks homeboy lol:thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

8000C said:


> Wow, very quick reply! Thank you again. I hope to get started next week and will upload some images when I'm done  (In about 6 months, right ?)


I monitor my threads 24/7/365. That way, I ensure the correct information is always getting posted in them. :thumb:



DJ.X-Ray said:


> What's up junkman ? I'm with you on the brazilian chicks homeboy lol:thumb:


Yea... if I lived in Brazil, I wouldn't get one video made!


----------



## Ballatie

Thanks for the excellent vids. Just got my polisher and pads on your recommendations. Here goes the fun part.

I wonder how much my merc respray will cost, haha!


----------



## Junkman2008

I will be waiting to see your results. :thumb:


----------



## AKA Pabs

Watched the entire series of videos and it gave me the confidence to buy a DA after 14 years of hand detailing. The main thing that I took away were technique trumps product. Thanks for passing on your knowledge, in an entertaining way.

My first machine polish was better than any hand detail I'd done. I even had members of the z4 forum asking how much I would charge to correct their car! But I will leave that to the professionals. 2003 daily driver with 74,000 miles. Sorry no before shots but safe to say that she did not reflect any where near as well before.

Hope the cat has not been back on your show car 😉


----------



## Junkman2008

There's no going back after machine polishing. Nice job. :thumb:


----------



## technofan

I got a heap of entertainment and top tips from the videos:thumb: As you guys say......'Good Job!'

Pete.:wave:


----------



## Junkman2008

technofan said:


> I got a heap of entertainment and top tips from the videos:thumb: As you guys say......'Good Job!'
> 
> Pete.:wave:


Thanks Pete! :thumb:


----------



## leon2 gr

respect to the brother in his garage productions:thumb:



thanks junkman


----------



## Junkman2008

Now THAT'S what I'm talking about! Sweet job mate! :thumb: :thumb:


----------



## RCL

The Junkman's video's gave me the information and courage to try my luck at detailing. As soon as the last bit of product I ordered comes in I plan to do a long detail over the course of several days and will post up pics then!

Also, you're funny as hell man.


----------



## Junkman2008

Don't be surprised if it takes more than a few days. Take you time, it is not a race. I look forward to seeing your progress.


----------



## RCL

Junkman2008 said:


> Don't be surprised if it takes more than a few days. Take you time, it is not a race. I look forward to seeing your progress.


Very true. I just got a new paint job and there are sanding marks in a couple places as well as some light swirl marks. Hopefully the m205 will suffice but i got the m105 just in case with the orange/white/black/red hexlogic pads. Also got ceripro glass polish and glass pads for my windshield. Definitely going to be busy when it all arrives.


----------



## Junkman2008

The red pad is a waste of time for the products you are using. Don't even bother with it. M205 is not going to remove the wet sanding damage if you are using a PC or a DAS-6. You will need M105.


----------



## Ashley6

Hi Junkman, this series was great, I used it on a beat up fiesta and got great results!



















But I have been trying to do the same on my 2010 Corsa and I cannot seem to get rid of the swirls, I am doing nothing different but nothing seems to touch them. I corrected swirls in another fiesta fine.

Could you maybe do a video on different paint colours and types and the best ways to correct them?

The corsa has solid red paint and seems to show the swirls worse than metallic.


----------



## Junkman2008

Ashley6 said:


> ... Could you maybe do a video on different paint colours and types and the best ways to correct them?


There's no such animal. Paint correction is paint correction. There are different techniques that you can use but the process is exactly the same. It may just take more passes with the car that is giving you trouble but if it worked perfectly on one car's paint, it will work on another car's paint. You just have to stay true to the technique.

Are you saying that the car that is giving you trouble has no clear coat?


----------



## fordfan

Does solid colors like red or white for example do they generally not have a clear coat? 

If the pad turns red during machine polishing does it mean it has n clear coat? 

Apologies for asking a dumb question and TIA


----------



## Junkman2008

fordfan said:


> Does solid colors like red or white for example do they generally not have a clear coat?
> 
> If the pad turns red during machine polishing does it mean it has n clear coat?
> 
> Apologies for asking a dumb question and TIA


Not a dumb question at all. If your pad turns the same color as your paint, you're buffing on paint and NOT clear coat. Of course, the same thing will happen if you buff THROUGH the clear coat and into the paint but that's next to impossible to do with a DAS-6 or PC unless you purposely try to do so and even then, it's going to take some effort.

Whether or not clear coat is present depends on the manufacturer, NOT the color. It also depends on whether or not the car has been repainted and if the painter sprayed clear on the car or not. Color has nothing to do with it.


----------



## 3dom

When is the next election in the States Junkman? Someone should put you forwards  Man, it's almost worth moving to the States just to vote :thumb:


----------



## fordfan

I like the last part "color has nothing to do with it"


----------



## Junkman2008

3dom said:


> When is the next election in the States Junkman? Someone should put you forwards  Man, it's almost worth moving to the States just to vote :thumb:


:lol:


----------



## meraredgti

Ring Ring.

'that better be a booty call'

lol legend - watched soooooo many junkman vid's, cant get enough. always learning little tips along the way.


----------



## Junkman2008

I'm editing some more right now. Will be uploading tonight.


----------



## Ashley6

Junkman2008 said:


> There's no such animal. Paint correction is paint correction. There are different techniques that you can use but the process is exactly the same. It may just take more passes with the car that is giving you trouble but if it worked perfectly on one car's paint, it will work on another car's paint. You just have to stay true to the technique.
> 
> Are you saying that the car that is giving you trouble has no clear coat?


It has a clear coat but I seem to be really struggling to make an impact on it.

I have been trying Orange Hexlogic and V34, i'll have another go at the weekend as i have been watching some of your videos.

I need to get me some music and count to 16 :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

I don't have a clue how good that Chemical Guy's polish you're using is. I do know that the M105 that I use works as advertised. Food for thought.


----------



## RCL

Hey Junkman, as I previously stated in here my car got repainted and I have some sanding marks that are visible in the paint. I bought m105/m205 and CG hexlogic orange/white pads. I did 1 cross hatch pass over some bad parts, and it didn't get the scratches out. I went and did several more passes as outlined in your video, with the exception that I increased my PC7424xp's speed to 6 from 5 and yet while it looks better, the sanding marks are still there. I tried to take a picture of it but for some reason I can't get it to show up on pictures. Any ideas of what I could be doing wrong? I'm working very small sections, going very slowly over the spot, almost damn near just holding the PC on the spot, have experimented with differing amounts of pressure on the PC, and still no luck.


----------



## Junkman2008

How much luck you are going to have depends on the grit of the paper used on the paint. The PC is only going to be able to remove 2500 grit damage in a noticeable fashion. Anything deeper than that is going to take a LOT of passes. It's not that you're doing anything wrong (which is why you DON'T change up the technique), it's just going to take a lot of passes. What I would do because of my experience level is break out a more powerful polisher like the Flex. I also have use of a rotary, which would make child's play of the scratches but could also wipe out the paint job in the wrong hands.


----------



## RCL

Junkman2008 said:


> How much luck you are going to have depends on the grit of the paper used on the paint. The PC is only going to be able to remove 2500 grit damage in a noticeable fashion. Anything deeper than that is going to take a LOT of passes. It's not that you're doing anything wrong (which is why you DON'T change up the technique), it's just going to take a lot of passes. What I would do because of my experience level is break out a more powerful polisher like the Flex. I also have use of a rotary, which would make child's play of the scratches but could also wipe out the paint job in the wrong hands.


I understand, from my limited knowledge of how sanding marks look, I'd say they were rougher than 2500 for sure. I'll keep up and try again then! Any advise on how to take pictures of swirls and holograms when inside my garage and also outside?


----------



## GAVSY

Subscribed to read later 

Many thanks


----------



## Junkman2008

RCL said:


> I understand, from my limited knowledge of how sanding marks look, I'd say they were rougher than 2500 for sure. I'll keep up and try again then! Any advise on how to take pictures of swirls and holograms when inside my garage and also outside?


Two ways. One is called the 'macro' function. The macro function of a camera allows you to take pictures without using a flash of items that are closer than 12" from the lens. Anything more than 12" will auto focus. Less than 12" will usually turn out blurry (depending on the quality of your camera). Here is a shot done using the macro function. Notice the amount of detail that you can see about this mirror:










Now taking a picture of swirls and paint defects needs to be done with a flash at the right angle. You get back far enough so that you don't flood too much light into the photo and you also force the flash to fire when you take the picture. Doing so reveals all the nasty imperfections in the paint. Here's a shot without the flash:










Here's the same shot WITH the flash:










That's shooting at the right angle from the correct distance, at which point you can zoom in and crop the image if necessary. Here's a picture shot at a distance (3 feet), and then the entire picture was reduced in size so that it is a resolution of 1024x768. Then I used the same picture WITHOUT reducing the resolution and cropped only a 1024x768 SECTION from that image:

Original:










A cropped section of the original:










It's that simple.


----------



## fixedwheel

Thanks for putting all the work in to the videos, I've learnt a lot, and feel like I'm plucking up enough courage to take a DA to my car.

Hopefully there will be some special offers at Waxstock, but I know what I am looking for now!

Cheers,

John


----------



## Junkman2008

If you are still scared of the orbital polisher, look at this thread. That should cure you of your fears.


----------



## torque777

Managed to do mine this week ...followed your video's to improve my technique ...








Not the brightest of days and its using my phone but pleased with results ...
Only problem I found is my sonex 5" pad ended up like this 








Now was I pressing too hard ? Had it on speed 5 and spritzed pad as well


----------



## Junkman2008

Who's the pad manufacturer?


----------



## MEH4N

Just wanted to say great videos junkman very informative :thumb: :buffer:


----------



## torque777

Only know it is sold as sonex range of pads ....maybe try different brand ???


----------



## Junkman2008

Did you follow my rule for pressure? How much were you applying?


----------



## torque777

I was hoping I was applying 14lbs of pressure but maybe I applied more ?


----------



## fixedwheel

Do you have a mark on the backing plate? Was it still rotating?

The pad reminds me of the look of a piece of wood that a orbital sander and big grit sandpaper, so wondering if the pad has stopped rotating. Hence the mark on the backing plate to see that it is still rotating.

Good news is that the paint has not only survived, but looks great, and a new pad is about £10

John


----------



## torque777

It looked and felt right through 3/4 of doing the car it was just the last bit didn't look right on pad so I applied less preasure ...ive put a black mark on my backing plates so visually I could see a difference


----------



## Junkman2008

Mehan said:


> Just wanted to say great videos junkman very informative :thumb: :buffer:


Thanks mate. :wave:



torque777 said:


> I was hoping I was applying 14lbs of pressure but maybe I applied more ?


In these videos, I explain exactly how to figure out how much pressure to use. Did you use that technique to determine the amount of pressure you were using? Also, why didn't you use the Hex-Logic pads that I suggested? They are available in the UK from various sources.


----------



## torque777

I was just using pads I had ...but plan to buy hex logic pads now


----------



## Junkman2008

torque777 said:


> I was just using pads I had ...but plan to buy hex logic pads now


Good idea. :thumb:


----------



## Robbiewebs

Fantastic videos and explained really easily, definitely put my fears of machine polishing at ease. I'm going to order the gear soon. Thanks very much Junkman


----------



## Junkman2008

Robbiewebs said:


> Fantastic videos and explained really easily, definitely put my fears of machine polishing at ease. I'm going to order the gear soon. Thanks very much Junkman


Thanks for watching. :thumb:


----------



## NeilA

Junkman2008 said:


> Thanks for watching. :thumb:


Indeed, as a noob when i can find spare time i find myself going back over your vids and i must say they are extremely helpful and have helped transform my messy CLK black merc into something that shines and blinds!
Now time to learn how to use a rotary..........
Cheers!


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks for chiming in mate. I'm glad you find them useful.


----------



## justinio

Excellent videos, really informative! I went out and bought myself and DA and polish, and now feel confident enough to use them after watching your videos.
Thanks!


----------



## Junkman2008

justinio said:


> Excellent videos, really informative! I went out and bought myself and DA and polish, and now feel confident enough to use them after watching your videos.
> Thanks!


Thanks for watching and welcome to DW! :wave:


----------



## Stokie

Great video's, the only thing that i can fault about them is that you made machine polishing look so easy its had me spending my money on a DA!!!


----------



## Junkman2008

Stokie said:


> Great video's, the only thing that i can fault about them is that you made machine polishing look so easy its had me spending my money on a DA!!!


:lol:

You are not the first to sat that!


----------



## fixedwheel

And he won't be the last!!

I've the money burning a hole in my pocket, and itching to get a DA. Looking for a bargain at Waxstock, but might just use it for sealants and waxes for a little while while I get used to handling one.

Thanks for all the trouble you go to Junkman.

John


----------



## Junkman2008

I would get the polisher before wasting that money on sealants and waxes. You can do a heck of a lot more with that machine than you can with sealants and waxes. Besides, a good wax only runs $20 US. I'm sure that you all have something similar in the UK that cost the same. I know that you all have access to Collinite products. Don't get caught up in the wax hype. Get the polisher.


----------



## fixedwheel

Sorry, my fault for not making myself clear.

The plan is to get a DA (prob the DAS6-Pro) and use it to APPLY the glaze, sealant and wax. Probably the combination of Poorboys Black Hole, EX-P, and Liquid Nattys Blue.

That gets me used to moving the DA and general technique before I move onto doing any correction. I know it won't solve the prob of the existing paint damage, but I can be patient.

My car lives outside, but I was at a friends yesterday, and he has nearly finished building a huuuuge double garage. I have made complimentary noises, and even suggested me hiring some space for a week or two at a time!!

Thanks.

John


----------



## Junkman2008

You will actually be better served by practicing with polishes. If you get comfortable applying sealants and waxes but your technique is flawed, then it will be difficult to "unteach" yourself any bad habits that you may have developed. You cannot tell if your technique is wrong when applying waxes because there is nothing to look for. With polishes, you look to see if what you have done has actually repaired any paint damage. That's a much better gauge.

You are NOT going to damage anything with that polisher. Go ahead and jump in with both feet. The water is warm.


----------



## GreenyR

Great vids here dude, picked up some good tips to help me.

Thanks:thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

GreenyR said:


> Great vids here dude, picked up some good tips to help me.
> 
> Thanks:thumb:


Thanks for watching mate!


----------



## Sheltie333

Awesome guides, thanks.


----------



## Junkman2008

Sheltie333 said:


> Awesome guides, thanks.


Thanks for watching and welcome to DW.


----------



## Ballatie

Eventually had a chance to try out your instructions. Very pleased for a first attempt on a sunny day. Merc obsidian black. Used orange hex pad with megs 105 then white and 205

Before 







After








Rubbish photos.


----------



## Ballatie

Sorry should have said it was the boot lid. Or trunk if you prefer.


----------



## Wingnuts

Love these videos I have downloaded them put them on my ipad and they are my lunch time viewing at work


----------



## Junkman2008

Ballatie said:


> Sorry should have said it was the boot lid. Or trunk if you prefer.


Looks like you paid very good attention! :thumb:



Wingnuts said:


> Love these videos I have downloaded them put them on my ipad and they are my lunch time viewing at work


Junkman TV for lunch? Now that's funny! :lol:


----------



## Jeremy_W

Thanks for guides. Very useful.


----------



## Junkman2008

Jeremy_W said:


> Thanks for guides. Very useful.


Thanks and welcome to the forum.


----------



## Devon Wanderer

Just great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks for watching sir.


----------



## SBM

Thanks so much for these videos Junkman2008, Truly awesome. Such a cool relaxed blend of being simple, informative, clear, perfectly paced and a little humour! Your videos are an excellent resource and really do inspire and install confidence.

I class myself as a "good amateur detailer" - I have been on a good solid 3 day course a couple of years ago and have detailed a few cars of friends and my own. Quite simply I just enjoy it. I was taught on my course in the use of a rotary (Milwaukee) with a lambs wool pad. I use Menzerna FG500 and FG3500 polishes. I am definitely taken with the DA approach though and using normal orange and white pads. Its less risky for sure. You do need your wits about you with a rotary and lambswool!

Just wanted to convey my thanks and appreciation :thumb: I am definitely a fan:lol:
Keep up the excellent posts. They are first class.

Thanks again
Ben :wave:


----------



## Junkman2008

SBM said:


> Thanks so much for these videos Junkman2008, Truly awesome. Such a cool relaxed blend of being simple, informative, clear, perfectly paced and a little humour! Your videos are an excellent resource and really do inspire and install confidence.
> 
> I class myself as a "good amateur detailer" - I have been on a good solid 3 day course a couple of years ago and have detailed a few cars of friends and my own. Quite simply I just enjoy it. I was taught on my course in the use of a rotary (Milwaukee) with a lambs wool pad. I use Menzerna FG500 and FG3500 polishes. I am definitely taken with the DA approach though and using normal orange and white pads. Its less risky for sure. You do need your wits about you with a rotary and lambswool!
> 
> Just wanted to convey my thanks and appreciation :thumb: I am definitely a fan:lol:
> Keep up the excellent posts. They are first class.
> 
> Thanks again
> Ben :wave:


Thanks for the kind words Ben. I'm glad that you found these videos useful. Feel free to holler if you have any questions and welcome to the forum! :wave:


----------



## Bullhorns

*Thank you*

These are some great tutorials you've made, Junkman! I live in Norway, and I got myself the DAS-6 Pro and the hex-logic pads. They are all on their way by mail as we speak ^^
I am looking forward to doing the machine polish on my car. In the meanwhile I've been studying your guides. I'm a complete newbi (got my first car just a little while ago), so if your method works on me, it will work on everybody! 

Just a question though: After you've completed the 2 goes of 105 and the go with 205, what should I do to finish it all off? Dont I need some sort of finisher (sealant or wax or whatever its called)?

If you'd care to explain this part I'd be very gratefull!

Peace,
Andreas


----------



## torque777

Had a go at the bonnet of the jetta 








Took me nearly two hrs to do this with my da ..still not happy with it ...was using menzerna fast cut compound and sonus swirl remover (white) pad ...I have still some faint lines in paint which you can see when the sun hits them ...do I need a more aggressive pad or compound ??


----------



## Junkman2008

torque777 said:


> Had a go at the bonnet of the jetta
> 
> Took me nearly two hrs to do this with my da ..still not happy with it ...was using menzerna fast cut compound and sonus swirl remover (white) pad ...I have still some faint lines in paint which you can see when the sun hits them ...do I need a more aggressive pad or compound ??


Before I can say what you need, I need to see you work. Make a video of you doing a pass with your heavy compound and show everything that you do to the camera. Assume that I am a blind man and explain *EVERYTHING* that you do. Then post the video.


----------



## James Bagguley

Just wanted to say hi there, and thank you to you Junkman! Went and joined up on here, to avoid cluttering your Youtube comments sections with crazy questions! 
Cool forum, fast moving though! 
All the best bud!


----------



## wykeite

Hey Junkman, that's a brilliant set of videos presented with humour.

Semper Fi


----------



## Junkman2008

James Bagguley said:


> Just wanted to say hi there, and thank you to you Junkman! Went and joined up on here, to avoid cluttering your Youtube comments sections with crazy questions!
> Cool forum, fast moving though!
> All the best bud!


Yep! Pretty active around here! Welcome to DW!



wykeite said:


> Hey Junkman, that's a brilliant set of videos presented with humour.
> 
> Semper Fi


Thanks my friend, Ooh-Rah!


----------



## chris_ffx

Watched all these videos and want to say thank you they are really informative. Cant wait to get a DA machine now and get rid of some swirls.


----------



## Junkman2008

chris_ffx said:


> Watched all these videos and want to say thank you they are really informative. Cant wait to get a DA machine now and get rid of some swirls.


Make sure that you read through this thread. Others may have asked questions that you may have. Thanks for watching.


----------



## Goodylax

Thanks Junkman :wave:
Got rid of a pesky dealer vinyl on my wife's car after watching your video!
Keep up the good work!


----------



## Junkman2008

Good to hear! Thanks for letting me know how it went.


----------



## invisiblekid

Damn you are awesome Junkman

Very informative and funny videos and loving the reassurance that I aint gonna  anything up....so long as I don't turn the DA around and beat my car with it! 

Not quite the time to sink yet more money into clean my car having recently just bought pressure washer, lance, clay, etc etc. However, giving the car as good a job as I can just shows up it need this. I don't have swirls but do have scratches. Will this help with small chips as well as mine is littered with them?

Finally it looks easy on an easy panel. Any tips on contoured panels like the fenders?


----------



## Junkman2008

invisiblekid said:


> ... Not quite the time to sink yet more money into clean my car having recently just bought pressure washer, lance, clay, etc etc.


If your car is not covered or caked in mud often, that pressure washer is a complete waste of money. It gets your car NO cleaner than regular garden hose pressure if you are washing your car correctly. I'd sell it if I were you.



invisiblekid said:


> I don't have swirls but do have scratches. Will this help with small chips as well as mine is littered with them?


If this is the question that you have, that tells me that you completely missed the understanding of what I explained in video 1. Thus, you need to go back and watch video 1 again. As a matter of fact, watching all these videos multiple times will greatly benefit you, especially if you take notes. *There is no way that a novice to machine polishing is going to remember or retain half of everything that I explain in those videos.* There's just too much information. I see this daily with my videos. They are for teaching, not selling anything and that's why they are so long. If you notice, you hardly ever learn anything from detailing videos that are geared toward selling a product.



invisiblekid said:


> Finally it looks easy on an easy panel. Any tips on contoured panels like the fenders?


Yes, and you can use the same stuff that I used in the videos that you just watched. It's technique that matters most, but I already explained that in *VIDEO ONE* of my initial post in this thread.


----------



## SBM

All - if you look up the junkman on you tube you can order his dvd's from him.
Mine are on route as we speak....

I've got them coming because:

1. I've watched them all twice over and both times made notes and still I learn something new.:newbie:
2. If you have a to ask a question on the content of the videos - watch them again - its ALL there.:buffer:
3. TECHNIQUE! over product Every Time- Need I say more. This phrase is like a picture - says more than a 1000 words:doublesho
5. Take my time. ! Enjoy it! 
4. Just gotta show some love for the Junkman!:thumb:

Ooh-Rah!

Ben


----------



## Junkman2008

Hey Ben, thanks. I autographed both DVD's for you. :thumb:

And yes, you bring up some very valid points. So many people watch my videos ONCE and then have questions. When I send them back to the videos, they find the answers that they are looking for. Watching them only once is not nearly enough times to soak all that data in. That's why my videos are so long. I cover ALL the bases... about 10 or 12 times.


----------



## SBM

Junkman2008 said:


> Hey Ben, thanks. I autographed both DVD's for you. :thumb:
> 
> And yes, you bring up some very valid points. So many people watch my videos ONCE and then have questions. When I send them back to the videos, they find the answers that they are looking for. Watching them only once is not nearly enough times to soak all that data in. That's why my videos are so long. I cover ALL the bases... about 10 or 12 times.


Thanks Junkman:thumb: Appreciate that!
I am thinking the DVD's are going to be a family airloom! Passed down the generations as the "Bible" for detailing!

Have a great weekend

Ben


----------



## Denzle

Absolutely superb. Well done Sir.


----------



## Junkman2008

Denzle said:


> Absolutely superb. Well done Sir.


Thank you for watching mate. :thumb:


----------



## Demetrios72

Cheers Junkman, really good stuff :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks Demetri! :wave:


----------



## torque777

Might of asked this but when you have corrected and polished ...how do you get rid of compound/polish out of stone chips ? As I'm left with white dots on bodywork which are stone chips full of compound/polish


----------



## Junkman2008

torque777 said:


> Might of asked this but when you have corrected and polished ...how do you get rid of compound/polish out of stone chips ? As I'm left with white dots on bodywork which are stone chips full of compound/polish


A stone chip is missing paint. You can't fix missing paint with nothing but more paint. There is no such thing as compounding or polishing out stone chips. Watch the first video of this series so that you can get a better understanding of paint damage.


----------



## torque777

Sorry I ment the compound seems to be left in the stone chips after using the da ...as they were not really visible before but now you can see them like white spots ..I know you can't remove them unless I repaint bonnet ...someone has suggested using panel wipe before polishing ??


----------



## Junkman2008

Oh, if you are trying to remove compound from the paint chips, try clay first and if that doesn't work, use a degreaser like Dawn dish washing soap. Clay should work.


----------



## torque777

Thanks junkman


----------



## Ultra

Clay will only remove what protudes or sits on the surface not what sits below it as a stone chip filled with polish residue.


----------



## Craig P

What a brilliant video/guide.

This has really helped me (Novice) And I cant wait to try correcting/polishing my car again, Thanks :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

Welcome to the forum Craig. Let me know when you decide to dive in. Remember, you need to watch those videos more than once because there is way too much info in them to retain after only on time through, especially for a novice. Take notes! :wave:


----------



## graham1970

Hey Mr Junkman superb video's and advice.:wave:

I'm a complete newbie and have just started to wash with correct technique.
Was contemplating polishing by hand but having watched your comprehensive guide for safe machine practice i'll be investing in a machine polisher and putting what i'm learning into practice by the end of the year.

Many thanks

Graham:thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks for watching Graham. Where are you located?


----------



## whiterabbit

awesome videos man. Watched all the paint correction ones and the 2 bucket wash. great advice. 

havent bought any products yet...trying to work out what to buy first, but im glad i watched your videos first.


----------



## graham1970

Junkman2008 said:


> Thanks for watching Graham. Where are you located?


I'm in West Yorkshire,England:thumb:

I'm a plasterer by trade and the correct technique you preach is what i have based my working life on:lol:

Just a quick question if i may about polishing machines.

My uncle died a few months back and one of the many things he was very good at was detailing his cars.My dad has his polishing machine,must be years old...is heavy and looks very similar to what you use...is it worth the effort to source a new backplate...(not sure but i'm guessing its a rotary),or buy a new modern version?

Cheers

Graham


----------



## Junkman2008

whiterabbit said:


> awesome videos man. Watched all the paint correction ones and the 2 bucket wash. great advice.
> 
> havent bought any products yet...trying to work out what to buy first, but im glad i watched your videos first.


Welcome to Detailing World. :wave:



graham1970 said:


> I'm in West Yorkshire,England:thumb:
> 
> I'm a plasterer by trade and the correct technique you preach is what i have based my working life on:lol:
> 
> Just a quick question if i may about polishing machines.
> 
> My uncle died a few months back and one of the many things he was very good at was detailing his cars.My dad has his polishing machine,must be years old...is heavy and looks very similar to what you use...is it worth the effort to source a new backplate...(not sure but i'm guessing its a rotary),or buy a new modern version?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Graham


Under NO circumstances should YOU as much as DREAM about picking up a rotary polisher and using it on your paint. Talk about a catastrophe, that would be a critical mistake for you. You need to buy a DAS-6 Pro. It is equivalent to what I used in these videos, only it's the UK version. You need to watch my Porter-Cable videos.


----------



## fixedwheel

Hi Graham

Worth a look at the DAS-6 Pro that CYC do in the Group Buy - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=207877

I bought that, and have got the stuff together to hopefully start on mine at the weekend, thanks to the inspiration that I have got from watching the Junkman's tutorial videos.

John


----------



## graham1970

Cheers John,it's been added to the list

Keep us informed how you get on aswell mate:thumb:


----------



## ALTEA

Hello junkman, I notice in your videos that you recommend megs 105 and 205, is this suitable for all paint types? When ive gone to some of the stores to buy a kit they seem to be recommending different polish combinations for different paint types. Should I ignore this and just stick with the 105 and 205. I believe my paint type to be soft. Thanks


----------



## Junkman2008

ALTEA said:


> Hello junkman, I notice in your videos that you recommend megs 105 and 205, is this suitable for all paint types? When ive gone to some of the stores to buy a kit they seem to be recommending different polish combinations for different paint types. Should I ignore this and just stick with the 105 and 205. I believe my paint type to be soft. Thanks


Two questions. First, do they even carry M105/M205? If they don't, I can see why they would want to recommend something else. They want your money. Two, what other products are they recommending? Be specific.


----------



## graham1970

Mr junkman,watched no.2 of your vids last night and you say that a garage is critical in the proccess of paint correction.
Unfortunatly i don't have a garage or access to one,only a driveway so my origional plan of getting my 2year old car detailed by a pro once a year still stands...i'm gutted tbh(and not becouse of the money)

So,is it ok to polish pretty good paintwork(not correct)in the open air,or am i only realy able to wax and seal my car?

Cheers

Graham:thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

Here's the deal with working outside. If your car is in direct sunlight, it can't be done without creating a dust storm of polish and having a very negative experience. If you do this in a shaded area on a day when the temperatures are low (say 70 F or lower), you will have a much better chance at getting away with working outside. That would be the only scenario that I would try it. On my DVD, I show how to work outside using a different line of products but I promised that I wouldn't share that video on the web since folks have paid for that info. That's only fair to them.


----------



## SBM

graham1970 said:


> Mr junkman,watched no.2 of your vids last night and you say that a garage is critical in the proccess of paint correction.
> Unfortunatly i don't have a garage or access to one,only a driveway so my origional plan of getting my 2year old car detailed by a pro once a year still stands...i'm gutted tbh(and not becouse of the money)
> 
> So,is it ok to polish pretty good paintwork(not correct)in the open air,or am i only realy able to wax and seal my car?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Graham:thumb:


Hi Graham - your other option is to get a canopy - if you hav some room on the drive to pop it up - check on amazon 

Ben


----------



## ALTEA

One company for example is suggesting a kit with megs 105 and 205 and lake country finishing and cutting pads for harder paints and another kit of menzerna 203s and 85re with a selection of lake country constant pressure pads for soft paint types. In short is the kit that you use ok for all paint types or should I be investing in somthing more suited to my particular paint type? Thanks.


----------



## graham1970

Can you provide a link to your DVD'S plz junkman?:thumb:

My broadband is soooo slow,takes ages to watch youtube


----------



## Junkman2008

ALTEA said:


> One company for example is suggesting a kit with megs 105 and 205 and lake country finishing and cutting pads for harder paints and another kit of menzerna 203s and 85re with a selection of lake country constant pressure pads for soft paint types. In short is the kit that you use ok for all paint types or should I be investing in somthing more suited to my particular paint type? Thanks.


Here's the deal. You always start with the least aggressive method when you are starting out learning paint correction until you can look at the paint and determine exactly what it is going to take. Thus, what I show in these videos will work with any paint because you can always start with M205, which is safe enough for any kind of paint in any condition. If M205 doesn't put a dent in what you're working on, you can bump up to M105. So yes, the combination that I use in these videos is safe enough for any type of paint, no matter how hard or soft it is.

One thing to note. There are a hundred different polishes out there on the market capable of doing the same exact thing, as long as you are using a quality product. So this 'safe for hard or soft paint' crap is just that.... crap. Every company that manufactures polishes and compounds has a polish for minor, medium and major damage. You just have to learn how to asses your damage and pick the appropriate polish or compound. Don't make it rocket science because it's not. It's just making paint shiny and the science was completed during the manufacturing process. You don't have to concern yourself with that. Just pick your quality product, master it and start leaving your Midas touch on every paint job you work on.


----------



## Junkman2008

graham1970 said:


> Can you provide a link to your DVD'S plz junkman?:thumb:
> 
> My broadband is soooo slow,takes ages to watch youtube


You have PM.


----------



## ger1275gt

Hi Junkman, could you send me the link for your DVD's too.

Thanks

Ger


----------



## fixedwheel

Yep, I'd like the info on the DVDs as well please.

Cheers, John


----------



## Junkman2008

ger1275gt said:


> Hi Junkman, could you send me the link for your DVD's too.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ger


You have PM.


----------



## ALTEA

Junkman2008 said:


> Here's the deal. You always start with the least aggressive method when you are starting out learning paint correction until you can look at the paint and determine exactly what it is going to take. Thus, what I show in these videos will work with any paint because you can always start with M205, which is safe enough for any kind of paint in any condition. It M205 doesn't put a dent in what you'r working on, you can bump up to M205. So yes, the combination that I use in these videos is safe enough for any type of paint, no matter how hard or soft it is.
> 
> One thing to note. There are a hundred different polishes out there on the market capable of doing the same exact thing, as long as you are using a quality product. So this 'safe for hard or soft paint' crap is just that.... crap. Every company that manufactures polishes and compounds has a polish for minor, medium and major damage. You just have to learn how to asses your damage and pick the appropriate polish or compound. Don't make it rocket science because it's not. It's just making paint shiny and the science was completed during the manufacturing process. You don't have to concern yourself with that. Just pick your quality product, master it and start leaving your Midas touch on every paint job you work on.


Thanks Junkman. Was wondering what the deal was with these kits and now I know I can stick with the products you use for all paint types it keeps it simpler for a newb like me to follow your videos.


----------



## DMcG

Can I have DVD info too please! 

Thanks


----------



## Junkman2008

DMcG said:


> Can I have DVD info too please!
> 
> Thanks


You have PM.


----------



## diesel x

Can I have dvd info too please!

thanks


----------



## Junkman2008

diesel x said:


> Can I have dvd info too please!
> 
> thanks


You have PM.


----------



## ger1275gt

Junkman2008 said:


> You have PM.


Sorry could you resend me the PM as I didn't have enough posts to receive it.

Thanks

ger


----------



## Junkman2008

ger1275gt said:


> Sorry could you resend me the PM as I didn't have enough posts to receive it.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ger


Resent.


----------



## Swervin_Mervin

Well, my DAS6 has turned up today along with all the other Junkman recommended kit. Here's hoping the weekend gives me a chance to try out your technique 

I'm going to risk doing it outdoors - I live on a quiet street and the temps over here are dropping now to highs of 55F. If the rain holds off that is...


----------



## Junkman2008

Until you can successfully fix one, 1.5' area, you're not worried about the rest of the car. So that's the size area that you need to perfect my technique on. Until you can do so, that's the only spot that you will be working on. Thus, pick a comfortable spot on the car to start. Once you finally figure it out, you are then ready to work on your entire car. My suggestion is to go watch my videos again.

And again, especially since you are already breaking one of my main rules by working outdoors.


----------



## muzzer

That's a valid point about working outside Junkman but not everyone has a garage so can't do anything but work outside. However i did watch your videos and i already knew about not doing this in direct sunlight or when the body panels are too hot.


----------



## Junkman2008

muzzer42 said:


> That's a valid point about working outside Junkman but not everyone has a garage so can't do anything but work outside. However i did watch your videos and i already knew about not doing this in direct sunlight or when the body panels are too hot.


True that every one does not have a garage but a novice doesn't know what compounds or polishes work best outdoors, when a panel is "too hot" to work on or how to manipulate a compound or polish when working outdoors if the compound or polish starts acting difficult. *Since the way you practice is the way you learn, perfect practice makes perfect.* You don't teach a guy to drive a car by taking him out in a hurricane with the top down at night. When teaching, you want the most ideal learning environment so that the student can concentrate on just that: *learning, and not fighting all of the elements that are going to work against you during some given scenario.* That's what you learn in advance studies. My videos cater to the novice. This is paint correction 101. When you want to get deep down into the splitting of atoms when it comes to paint correction, you are then ready for some of KB's writeup's.

I hope that I will never know that much about detailing. My head would explode!


----------



## Swervin_Mervin

Yeah, sadly no indoor option for me (until we demolish the toilet that the previous owner built in the garage space!). I chose to do the flank, rather than the bonnet (hood for JM  ) as it was a nice cool day and that was out of direct sunlight.

So far, so chuffed. It reminded me a lot of my first full homebrew of beer in a way - there are numerous steps and making sure you get them right will either be a slow process at first or you'll learn from mistakes you've made.

My mistake was not looking at the bottle when I went to use the #205 - I picked up the #105 and only realised when I got to the end that I'd re-done the whole flank again but with the white pad! Thankfully I bought 3 white and 2 orange pads so it was no big deal to do it right - just wasted time that could've been spent putting the wax on before the weather came in.

I'm going to have a proper check over tonight to see the full effect on swirls as I couldn't quite get the light shining on the panel properly yesterday to see. However, there were a couple of patches on the rear pillar which looked like they'd been wet-sanded at some point in the past and then never properly polished. They're now gleaming so that's something at least


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks for reporting your experience. That helps others.


----------



## muzzer

Junkman2008 said:


> True that every one does not have a garage but a novice doesn't know what compounds or polishes work best outdoors, when a panel is "too hot" to work on or how to manipulate a compound or polish when working outdoors if the compound or polish starts acting difficult. *Since the way you practice is the way you learn perfect practice makes perfect.* You don't teach a guy to drive a car by taking him out in a hurricane with the top down at night. When teaching, you want the most ideal learning environment so that the student can concentrate on just that: *learning, and not fighting all of the elements that are going to work against you during some given scenario.* That's what you learn in advance studies. My videos cater to the novice. This is paint correction 101. When you want to get deep down into the splitting of atoms when it comes to paint correction, you are then ready for some of KB's writeup's.
> 
> I hope that I will never know that much about detailing. My head would explode!


Fair point Junkman


----------



## Mr.Miyagi

Junkman, what about the IPA / Anti-Silicone Cleaner inspection ?


----------



## Junkman2008

Mr.Miyagi said:


> Junkman, what about the IPA / Anti-Silicone Cleaner inspection ?


What about it?


----------



## Mr.Miyagi

In your videos "Buffing the side of your car" you don't seem to use any of these.
Just because it's obvious you're doing it afterwards or your compounds don't require doing it?
Just curious...


----------



## Junkman2008

Mr.Miyagi said:


> In your videos "Buffing the side of your car" you don't seem to use any of these.
> Just because it's obvious you're doing it afterwards or your compounds don't require doing it?
> Just curious...


If you use a product that is "body shop safe", there is no need to do any IPA wipe down because the products do not contain silicon and other fillers.


----------



## Mr.Miyagi

I see, thank you Junkman.
Besides, are there any non-silicon polishing compunds?  (Menzerna, Scholl, 3M?)


----------



## Junkman2008

Mr.Miyagi said:


> I see, thank you Junkman.
> Besides, are there any non-silicon polishing compunds?  (Menzerna, Scholl, 3M?)


Yes, but you need to contact the manufacturer to find out which ones are and which ones are not. Companies like Hi-Temp, 3M and Meguiar's make both body shop safe and non-body shop safe compounds and polishes.


----------



## Swervin_Mervin

Just to come back to this - got myself an awning which at least helped to keep the sun off. Had another go and much better results. Managed flank and bonnet again today and here's a comparison of the side of the rear bumper (not done) vs the flank just near it.



















There are some deep scratches which I won't get out without mor serious work but I'm not that bothered. The rear door also seems a bit flat, but showing little in the way of scratches now - could this be that it's been sprayed and not rubbed down properly?

Finally, a question for Junkman. I watched your vids on doing the side of the car, which helped massively. But what I did want to know is what you do/what tips you have for doing heavily curved sections. The side skirts on my 3-series are very concave at the middle and I found the DA would stop orbiting at these points. To get round it I split it up and tried to do the top half of the curve with the bottom of the door, and then the bottom half of the curve separately.


----------



## Junkman2008

That's fine, you can split it up anyway that you want but the secret to doing an area like that is to *use the correct amount of pressure and a smaller pad.* If you were using a 5.5" pad along with the correct amount of pressure, this would not be an issue. Even with a bigger pad, pressure is key. If you are stopping the rotation, then you are applying too much pressure.


----------



## Swervin_Mervin

I guess I just found it hard to judge the pressure as only the very outer edge of the pad was in contact. The curved section of the skirts only about 3" wide y'see. Eta it seemed like I was barely applying any pressure


----------



## Junkman2008

Then go with a smaller pad. Remember in the video how I explained how to measure pressure?


----------



## cripo321

Hi looking a bit off advice. I own a sealey 2 speed polisher but its not an orbiting one
I would buff the same way as you but is still not perfect results. 
Should I buy a polisher that orbits

The other problem was I'm using too much product so must remember this


----------



## Junkman2008

There are different types of buffing techniques that apply to the various types of polishers on the market. *What I show in these videos is strictly for orbital polishers, that are rated up to around 6800 OPM's.* What I do in these videos does NOT apply to the polisher you are using if it does not meet the previously stated standards. If you want to follow these videos, you must use the equivalent to what I use in these videos. Whether or not you will see better results depends on your ability to follow my instructions to the letter, and the quality of the equipment and polishes you choose to use. The severity of the damage that you are trying to fix will also factor into the equation.

So if you want to do what I do in these videos while using the technique that I used then yes, you will need an orbital polisher.


----------



## muzzer

Having got a DA and followed your instructions for ascertaining the correct pressure. Crikey, 9lbs of pressure is next to sod all and i am surprised you can achieve such good results with so little pressure but i am looking forward to practicing on my test panel.


----------



## Junkman2008

muzzer42 said:


> Having got a DA and followed your instructions for ascertaining the correct pressure. Crikey, 9lbs of pressure is next to sod all and i am surprised you can achieve such good results with so little pressure but i am looking forward to practicing on my test panel.


That's because you've missed a very important point that I made about how my technique works. The secret is, *YOU allow the polisher do the work, not the other way around.* If you truly understand the way a polisher works (something that I thoroughly explain in my 'how safe is the polisher' videos), then you will understand WHY the amount of pressure that I use is so important. Too much pressure will kill the effectiveness of my technique.


----------



## muzzer

Junkman2008 said:


> That's because you've missed a very important point that I made about how my technique works. The secret is, *YOU allow the polisher do the work, not the other way around.* If you truly understand the way a polisher works (something that I thoroughly explain in my 'how safe is the polisher' videos), then you will understand WHY the amount of pressure that I use is so important. Too much pressure will kill the effectiveness of my technique.


Oh i got that, i was just surprised at how little pressure was needed to make the machine work.


----------



## Junkman2008

Yep, it only takes very little. There's a different technique that you can use that consist of massive pressure. It is much faster but two things happen. First, you get tired pretty quick. Second, it destroys your pads, about 1 pad every half a car.


----------



## muzzer

Junkman2008 said:


> Yep, it only takes very little. There's a different technique that you can use that consist of massive pressure. It is much faster but two things happen. First, you get tired pretty quick. Second, it destroys your pads, about 1 pad every half a car.


Think i prefer the slower method, i'm too old to be tired that quickly :lol:
Thanks Junkman, your videos are invaluable :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

That makes two of us. I'm too old to be sweating too. :thumb:


----------



## Matty77

Love your style Junkman. Always enjoy watching your videos!


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks Matty, love your avatar!


----------



## Matty77

Junkman2008 said:


> Thanks Matty, love your avatar!


That's my 5 year old daughter! I can't keep her away from the car!

Your comment prompted me to make a post about kids helping out their dads with car washing/detailing and I've posted a few pictures of my daughter helping me out. If you liked my avatar, you'll love these pics!

Have a great weekend Junkman!

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=4283548#post4283548


----------



## Brian88

Thanks junkman going to start looking at more of your videos and get a polisher around Xmas time but I just need to find a garage to use it in, or buy a gazebo thanks again top man! Technique trumps product everytime 365, 24/7 . 

Bri


----------



## Junkman2008

Brian88 said:


> Thanks junkman going to start looking at more of your videos and get a polisher around Xmas time but I just need to find a garage to use it in, or buy a gazebo thanks again top man! Technique trumps product everytime 365, 24/7 .
> 
> Bri


Welcome to the site Brian. :wave:


----------



## Brian88

Thank you . You know how you said it should be done in doors well I live in scotland it doesent even get above 20 degrees here in summer 90% of the time, so if I done it on a rainless and not to windy a day outside should fine for here? Or under a gazebo as I stated in my first post


----------



## Junkman2008

Is that 20 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit?


----------



## lowejackson

Junkman2008 said:


> Is that 20 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit?


I would strongly suggest Celsius, Fahrenheit is only very rarely used these days


----------



## Brian88

Celsius mate it's not but it's often a slight wind to it aswell very rarely we get nice sun with no wind the joys  haha


----------



## Rayner

lowejackson said:


> I would strongly suggest Celsius, Fahrenheit is only very rarely used these days


plus that would make it -6 or -7. It isn't THAT cold in Scotland in the summer :driver:


----------



## Brian88

20 degrees Celsius works out about 68 Fahrenheit that's a good HOT summers day for here, average I would say anything from 12-16 Celsius, in winter we get anything from -1 to -13 Celsius


----------



## Junkman2008

lowejackson said:


> I would strongly suggest Celsius, Fahrenheit is only very rarely used these days


Fahrenheit is all they use in the USA.

The wind is going to be your enemy. The temperature doesn't concern me as much.


----------



## Flakey

Good one.


----------



## James Bagguley

Junkman2008 said:


> The wind is going to be your enemy. The temperature doesn't concern me as much.


Agreed, the wind sucks as hard as it blows 
Any dust ends up all over, and a barrage of debris from leaves down to dust and grit can cause more problems.
I have had a DA since May, but have hardly used it due to the lack of indoor space to work


----------



## Junkman2008

Wassup James, my All-World detailing buddy?


----------



## Brian88

Thanks for the help guys  I'm sure if I try I can ask about and find somewhere to do it


----------



## James Bagguley

Hey there! Sorry i missed you! Had to get the little one dressed and off to school.
I hope all is well with you?


----------



## Junkman2008

Just fine, thanks for asking. About to get in the bed finally. It's almost 5:AM were I am!


----------



## James Bagguley

Ha ha! living it up eh?  Off to bed for me too, i work nights! 
Glad to hear you are well, all the best bud.


----------



## DPG87

Epic videos!


----------



## Junkman2008

DPG87 said:


> Epic videos!


Thanks for watching,


----------



## rixis

I have watched several videos - until the end 
Great videos, thank You :thumb:
You have great style of explanation, for most nOObs should be easy to understand(I understood  ) :thumb:


----------



## DPG87

Junkman2008 said:


> Thanks for watching,


Really informative, you make a great point about the usual "info videos" online polishing a classic Ferrari that hasn't moved in a decade!


----------



## rixis

DPG87 said:


> Really informative, you make a great point about the usual "info videos" online polishing a classic Ferrari that hasn't moved in a decade!


So true, although it's nice to look at fancy cars.
But in reality these kind of videos are more valuable :thumb: :buffer:


----------



## LewisScoob

As a complete newb to machine polishing, I found your videos excellent. Very informative and it's inspired me to have a go at what I've always thought was a black art. I've ordered a DA polisher and megs 105 and 205 from the local experts and will maybe post up some pics of my progress. If it goes well!

Thanks Junkman!


----------



## Junkman2008

Thank you mates. I am about to do a washing during the winter time video for those who either can't wash at home or who have some type of water restriction. Stay tuned! :thumb:


----------



## muzzer

Sounds good and i am subscribed on youtube so can see it when you upload it :thumb:


----------



## luke-m-j

Junkman, these videos are awesome... Spent the last week on your YouTube channel 

Top work


----------



## Junkman2008

luke-m-j said:


> Junkman, these videos are awesome... Spent the last week on your YouTube channel
> 
> Top work


Thanks for watching. More to come soon.


----------



## luke-m-j

I need more 'junked up to shinesville' giggles!


----------



## Berylburton

Come on Junkman, I know has been a bit cold over there but it's time to satisfy the audience. More, more, more


----------



## Junkman2008

luke-m-j said:


> I need more 'junked up to shinesville' giggles!


----------



## Junkman2008

Berylburton said:


> Come on Junkman, I know has been a bit cold over there but it's time to satisfy the audience. More, more, more


I have to finish working on my car first...


----------



## luke-m-j

is that the 'vette? What's wrong with it?


----------



## Junkman2008

It's time to fix the yearly rock chips, among other little things...


----------



## luke-m-j

Respray then or are you 'faking the funk' and doing spot repairs?


----------



## Junkman2008

luke-m-j said:


> Respray then or are you 'faking the funk' and doing spot repairs?


Do I look like a spot repair guy? I go hard or not at all!


----------



## luke-m-j

Pictures


----------



## Junkman2008

I already did paint pictures, in this thread.


----------



## suspal

Look forward to seeing the Vette's progress :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

Nothing new or earth shattering. Just a bumper paint job.


----------



## luke-m-j

Junkman2008 said:


> I already did paint pictures, in this thread.


 Bad times!


----------



## Grant.

Brilliant! Will spend some time tomorrow watching through this!


----------



## 636

I agree. Big fan of the junkman


----------



## jonny2112

636 said:


> I agree. Big fan of the junkman


Me too :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

636 said:


> I agree. Big fan of the junkman





jonny2112 said:


> Me too :thumb:


Thanks mates.


----------



## muzzer

Junkman2008 said:


> Do I look like a spot repair guy? I go hard or not at all!


Go big or go home!
Looking forward to your videos this year so i an increase my knowledge and gain new skills.


----------



## luke-m-j

Hey Junkman, do you have any time for Megs #83 or not? The reason I ask is I already have most of a bottle left and my intention was to run that on an orange hexlogic followed by #205 on a white. I have light to medium swirls on a 2003 Mini Cooper S but don't wanna waste my time and money with trial and error when there are guys like you that have forgotten more than I'll ever know


----------



## Junkman2008

M85 was engineered to be used with a rotary polisher and then followed by M83 with the same. This is how the Meguiar's engineers designed these products so that's the way I would use them in order to achieve the best results possible. Your orbital polisher is not going to maximize the potential of M85. Thus, you should use the products as the manufacturer engineered them to be used. M205 was engineered to be used with M105 and that's why I used them that way in these videos. They also can be used with the multiple types of polishers on the market (rotary, dual-action and orbital).

Don't complicate the issue by guessing and experimenting until you become very proficient with this stuff. Always go with what the manufacturer has recommended so that you can achieve the best results possible. When you are new at this, you do NOT want to throw any kind of monkey wrench into the equation. Always use the KISS method.


----------



## luke-m-j

I have access to a rotary though and have had success in the past after I resprayed and wet sanded my 1972 VW beetle with it. I still have an array of 3M pads (black and white) and 3M Finesse It polishes but that was under my dad's advice and he's very old school... I wanna get on the hexlogic bandwagon


----------



## Junkman2008

luke-m-j said:


> I have access to a rotary though and have had success in the past after I resprayed and wet sanded my 1972 VW beetle with it.


That's fine and dandy but the polishing aspect of the videos in this thread will be absolutely worthless if that's the polisher you decide to use. The technique that I use to fix paint with a ROTARY is completely different than the technique that I use to fix paint with an ORBITAL or DUAL-ACTION polisher. If you use the technique that I use in these videos with a rotary machine, *you will burn the paint right off your car with a quickness.* Even the amount of polish that I use with a rotary is drastically different.



luke-m-j said:


> I still have an array of 3M pads (black and white) and 3M Finesse It polishes but that was under my dad's advice and he's very old school... I wanna get on the hexlogic bandwagon


Again, you cannot mix up the two. Hex-Logic pads are made for the ORBITAL polisher. That would be the PC-7424 or the DAS-6. Those are the only types of polishers (ones that don't have forced rotation), that I would use a Hex-Logic pad on. Rotary and forced rotating machines will walk out of control all over the car if you try and use them with Hex-Logic pads.

Everything that I do in those videos is part of my technique. *If you change ANY aspect of my technique, you are no longer doing what I do and then I can't help you with your results.* There's more than one way to skin a cat but my way only works if you do exactly what I do. Throwing a rotary into the equation of how I do it completely puts you out there on an island by yourself. Add to that, the 3M polishes that you are thinking about using are what they use in body shops to get the paint fixed but not necessarily perfect. The last step of that 3M Finesse It line consist of a glaze and glazes are used to HIDE paint imperfections, NOT fix them.

Last of all, if you get that 3M stuff on any part of your trim or in a seam, you had better remove it at that instant or it will become permanent. That stuff is like super glue when you get it somewhere that you don't want it. I advise against what you are thinking about using unless you are an expert with this stuff.


----------



## Lewis86

this tips are impressive


----------



## Junkman2008

Lewis86 said:


> this tips are impressive


You should see the videos in post #1. Tips galore.


----------



## muzzer

Junkman2008 said:


> You should see the videos in post #1. Tips galore.


Exactly, the first thing anyone wanting to try machine polishing with a DA should do is watch these videos. Even if you go get professional training, watch them anyway it contains so much usefull info.


----------



## Johnsy

Iv watched your videos a couple of times in this thread and most of your other videos available,good to watch and very informative 

Is there a 'your technique' video for the rotary polisher? Pads and polishes type advice.id like to see that .

Dan


----------



## Junkman2008

Johnsy said:


> Iv watched your videos a couple of times in this thread and most of your other videos available,good to watch and very informative
> 
> Is there a 'your technique' video for the rotary polisher? Pads and polishes type advice.id like to see that .
> 
> Dan


The rotary polisher is not something you can teach by video. That's a "in person" teaching class, due to the fact that you can easily damage your paint to the point of needing a paint job. Since people have a hard enough time following my instructions on how to use a safe polisher, I will never put up any videos on how to use a something as dangerous as a rotary polisher.


----------



## Johnsy

well i for one would very much enjoy watching said video if you ever change your mind fella, 
very informative and if you show us what can happen or go wrong it might put complete numptys like me off trying lol


----------



## Junkman2008

I have a rule. *Never tell a guy to do something to his paint that I wouldn't allow him to do to mine.* I would NEVER allow a novice to buff on my paint with a rotary so the last thing that I'm going to tell him to do is buff on his with one. The opportunity to screw up is infinite and it will happen instantly.


----------



## scottishA4

Great videos. I have watched them all now and VERY helpful for detailing novices such as myself! Keep up the good work!


----------



## Tailored

Great videos.


----------



## Junkman2008

Tailored said:


> Great videos.


Thanks for watching mate.


----------



## scottishA4

Well I watched the videos and followed the advice and successfully removed the swirls. Thanks junkman!


----------



## Junkman2008

scottishA4 said:


> Well I watched the videos and followed the advice and successfully removed the swirls. Thanks junkman!


Thanks for watching mate.


----------



## dabhand

Just wanted to say thanks Junkman for the video's. I recently bought a DAS 6 Pro, Megs and Hexlogic pads and have just spent the last 2 weekends getting most of the swirls out of my paintwork. 
Theres a few bits that need doing again though, but the video's were a great help.

One thing I did find though, I need some smaller pads, same technique ?


----------



## Junkman2008

dabhand said:


> ... One thing I did find though, I need some smaller pads, same technique ?


In the video, I highly suggested that a novice should start out with 5.5" pads. They are easier to control in that they don't get hung up as easy when you apply too much pressure over dips and humps and they concentrate more work in a smaller area. Technique is also very key, as you could have the best stuff in the world and not make a dent in your paint damage due to a lousy technique. Most novices move the polisher too fast or use too much polish, which renders the machine and the pads ineffective.

I plan to upload a technique video in the near future.


----------



## muzzer

As Junkman said, you could buy Tiger Woods exact clubs but they wont help you if your skills are Charles Barkley level :lol:


----------



## Junkman2008

muzzer42 said:


> As Junkman said, you could buy Tiger Woods exact clubs but they wont help you if your skills are Charles Barkley level :lol:


----------



## muzzer

I do pay attention


----------



## dabhand

My reference to smaller pads was to do with door frames and other small places where a 5½" pad is too large.

As a first timer, I was really impressed with my results, yes, I have loads still to learn but Junkman got me started and gave me confidence to put the tool onto my paint.


----------



## Junkman2008

dabhand said:


> My reference to smaller pads was to do with door frames and other small places where a 5½" pad is too large.
> 
> As a first timer, I was really impressed with my results, yes, I have loads still to learn but Junkman got me started and gave me confidence to put the tool onto my paint.


That's when the 4" pad comes in handy. You can get around all kinds of stuff with them.


----------



## muzzer

And the thing is, the idea behind the Junkmans video is to get you started using a machine on your paint, yes there are lots of variables but like everything in life, you need to practice before you try to be an expert.
As Junkman just said, there are 4" pads but get used to using your machine first.


----------



## Mike_Wizz

muzzer42 said:


> And the thing is, the idea behind the Junkmans video is to get you started using a machine on your paint, yes there are lots of variables but like everything in life, you need to practice before you try to be an expert.
> As Junkman just said, there are 4" pads but get used to using your machine first.


Is it bad that I find it easier using smaller pads on my rotary?


----------



## Junkman2008

Mike_Wizz said:


> Is it bad that I find it easier using smaller pads on my rotary?


I use smaller pads om my rotary too. I have never been a fan of anything past 6.5".


----------



## Mike_Wizz

Glad its not just because I'm rubbish


----------



## Junkman2008

:lol:


----------



## neilb62

Hi Junkman, been a big follower of your technique and had some good results. But today I hit my 5-Series with a new to me 6.5 Microfibre pad and Megs 105 on the DA using your method.. WOW, what a result with little effort. The best so far! Maybe one to think of for German paint? Rock on dude... :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

I haven't messed with a lot of microfiber pads yet. They are sitting on my shelf but I haven't had a chance to evaluate them.


----------



## dj_eatch

This exact thread has given me the confidence to finally order a das6pro, hex pads and some clay. Looking forward to trying them all out soon. (And 2 buckets and grit guards to maintain)
Got properly nerdy about it and wrote notes while watching all the videos (multiple times).

Thankyou junkman for taking the time and effort to put together such a great guide thats helping noobs like me get on the path to swirl free paint.

Any details on the DVDs? Would love to buy them to use offline.

:buffer:
Cheers, Duncan.


----------



## Junkman2008

dj_eatch said:


> This exact thread has given me the confidence to finally order a das6pro, hex pads and some clay. Looking forward to trying them all out soon. (And 2 buckets and grit guards to maintain)
> Got properly nerdy about it and wrote notes while watching all the videos (multiple times).
> 
> Thankyou junkman for taking the time and effort to put together such a great guide thats helping noobs like me get on the path to swirl free paint.
> 
> Any details on the DVDs? Would love to buy them to use offline.
> 
> :buffer:
> Cheers, Duncan.


Now you sound like someone who has properly prepared himself for success. I look forward to seeing your results and hearing about your experience. As for the DVD's, order away. I've shipped them puppies to every corner of the globe. :thumb:


----------



## Vyse

Hi Junkman, excellent videos brother. For hard to get to areas, i.e. not flat surfaces would you be changing the technique used or would you be changing the equiment i.e. the backing plate and pad size?


----------



## Junkman2008

Vyse said:


> Hi Junkman, excellent videos brother. For hard to get to areas, i.e. not flat surfaces would you be changing the technique used or would you be changing the equiment i.e. the backing plate and pad size?


I would use the same setup that I used in my debadging video.


----------



## sharmam114

Brilliant stuff!


----------



## Junkman2008

sharmam114 said:


> Brilliant stuff!


----------



## mcloud

Junkman; ( Thank you for your USMC service! ) What kind of soap to use in the Gilmore gun? When applying sealant by hand, should foam or micro pad be used? Thanks, - Mcloud


----------



## Junkman2008

As for applying a sealant by hand, I would use a quality microfiber pad but good luck finding one.


----------



## chongo

Junkman, what's your thoughts on C/guys Blacklight, as a glaze or sealant. Chongo.


----------



## Junkman2008

chongo said:


> Junkman, what's your thoughts on C/guys Blacklight, as a glaze or sealant. Chongo.


A glaze and a sealant are about as different as a woman and a cross-dresser. They are no where near similar. One is for hiding imperfections and the other is for protection. So you can't use a product and expect it to do both very well.


----------



## chongo

The reason I asked is I like blacklight as sealant if layered, but a lot of people say it is glaze, 
Also can it correct minor swirls. Chongo. Cheers


----------



## Junkman2008

Why take anyone's word as to what it is when you can go to their website and read for yourself as to what it is? The only person that I am going to believe is the manufacturer. This is what they say the product is:

*"Gloss enhancer and sealant in one."*

That pretty much tells me exactly what it is. I have no questions about what it is after reading that. It doesn't say a word about doing any kind of correction, but that's NOT what sealants are used for. If you buy a correcting sealant like Hi-Temp's Midnight Express, then you will have a sealant that contains a very lite polish. But that's a CORRECTING sealant, not just a straight sealant like CG's Blacklight.


----------



## chongo

Thanks for the reply, and yes it is a sealant as the product says.


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


> Why take anyone's word as to what it is when you can go to their website and read for yourself as to what it is? The only person that I am going to believe is the manufacturer. This is what they say the product is:
> 
> *"Gloss enhancer and sealant in one."*
> 
> That pretty much tells me exactly what it is. I have no questions about what it is after reading that.* It doesn't say a word about doing any kind of correction,* but that's NOT what sealants are used for. If you buy a correcting sealant like Hi-Temp's Midnight Express, then you will have a sealant that contains a very lite polish. But that's a CORRECTING sealant, not just a straight sealant like CG's Blacklight.


you must of missed this part then

Product Review: Chemical Guys Black Light

by Todd Cooperider

As a part of the Detailed Image Ask A Pro Team, I get the opportunity to try out a lot of different products long before they reach the market. The manufacturers look to us for everything from product development help to simple product feedback. Some of these products and opportunities are brilliant, some of them are "me-too", and some need to go back to the lab for further refinement. Rewind to over a year ago and I received a bottle of Black Light from Chemical Guys that had been in development for a while in their Thailand offices. I was told that it was designed to meet the harsh environmental conditions of Thailand, and should do extremely well in the North American market as well. It was being marketed as a gloss-enhancing sealant, so I figured that I would give it a try...

Since I've worked with Black Light for so long, and have had discussions with the behind-the-scenes people in charge of designing this formula, I can tell you another use for this product that you won't read on the label, or in other product reviews…it also makes a great All-In-One (cleaner, polish, sealant). Black Light contains very fine abrasives in the formula to help clean and lightly polish the surface while it's adding gloss and protection. So if your car (or customer's car) is a bit needy, but a major paint correction detail isn't on the menu or budget, then you can reach for an incredibly easy to use product like Black Light for the job. I've taken worn-out cars and given them a quick application of Black Light, and have been stunned by the difference that it made in such a short amount of time. And to further define "short amount of time", I mean just 30 minutes with a D/A polisher! Not only will you get light correction and color/gloss enhancement, but you're completing it with a layer of durable protection at the same time.

or this table

The Black Light Hybrid Radiant Finish is also available in a gallon size. The Black Light is also available as part of the Detailer's Radiant Finish Kit which is the perfect kit to achieve the most vibrant and radiant of finishes.

Specifications	
Part Number
GAP_619_16
UPC
816276010441
Size
16 ounces
Top
Flip cap
Scent
Black Cherry
Form
Cream
Gloss Enhancing
Yes
Finishing
Yes
Able to be layered
Yes
Application Pressure
Light when used as a finisher; *Light to medium when used as an "all in one"*
Curing time
15 minutes; allow 30 minutes between coats
Durability
Varies - up to 6 months
Hand application
Yes
Machine application
Yes
Safe for clearcoat
Yes
Safe for light color cars
Yes
Safe for dark color cars
Yes
Blacklight was launched as a set with V7 to be used together the v7 to be used every was to protect the blacklight :thumb:
having to only use light to medium presure to use as an AIO shows how much abrasives it contains


----------



## Junkman2008

*Does HE work for Chemical Guy's or Detailed Image?* Is he the manufacturer? Where's the link to your SOURCE???


----------



## chongo

cheekymonkey said:


> you must of missed this part then
> 
> Product Review: Chemical Guys Black Light
> 
> by Todd Cooperider
> 
> As a part of the Detailed Image Ask A Pro Team, I get the opportunity to try out a lot of different products long before they reach the market. The manufacturers look to us for everything from product development help to simple product feedback. Some of these products and opportunities are brilliant, some of them are "me-too", and some need to go back to the lab for further refinement. Rewind to over a year ago and I received a bottle of Black Light from Chemical Guys that had been in development for a while in their Thailand offices. I was told that it was designed to meet the harsh environmental conditions of Thailand, and should do extremely well in the North American market as well. It was being marketed as a gloss-enhancing sealant, so I figured that I would give it a try...
> 
> Since I've worked with Black Light for so long, and have had discussions with the behind-the-scenes people in charge of designing this formula, I can tell you another use for this product that you won't read on the label, or in other product reviews…it also makes a great All-In-One (cleaner, polish, sealant). Black Light contains very fine abrasives in the formula to help clean and lightly polish the surface while it's adding gloss and protection. So if your car (or customer's car) is a bit needy, but a major paint correction detail isn't on the menu or budget, then you can reach for an incredibly easy to use product like Black Light for the job. I've taken worn-out cars and given them a quick application of Black Light, and have been stunned by the difference that it made in such a short amount of time. And to further define "short amount of time", I mean just 30 minutes with a D/A polisher! Not only will you get light correction and color/gloss enhancement, but you're completing it with a layer of durable protection at the same time.
> 
> or this table
> 
> The Black Light Hybrid Radiant Finish is also available in a gallon size. The Black Light is also available as part of the Detailer's Radiant Finish Kit which is the perfect kit to achieve the most vibrant and radiant of finishes.
> 
> Specifications
> Part Number
> GAP_619_16
> UPC
> 816276010441
> Size
> 16 ounces
> Top
> Flip cap
> Scent
> Black Cherry
> Form
> Cream
> Gloss Enhancing
> Yes
> Finishing
> Yes
> Able to be layered
> Yes
> Application Pressure
> Light when used as a finisher; *Light to medium when used as an "all in one"*
> Curing time
> 15 minutes; allow 30 minutes between coats
> Durability
> Varies - up to 6 months
> Hand application
> Yes
> Machine application
> Yes
> Safe for clearcoat
> Yes
> Safe for light color cars
> Yes
> Safe for dark color cars
> Yes
> Blacklight was launched as a set with V7 to be used together the v7 to be used every was to protect the blacklight :thumb:
> having to only use light to medium presure to use as an AIO shows how much abrasives it contains


Cheers :thumb: I was looking for that.:wave:


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


> *Does HE work for Chemical Guy's or Detailed Image?* Is he the manufacturer? Where's the link to your SOURCE???


Its the official write up on chemical guys :wall: . like you said the manufacturer is the best person to ask. Its a pitty you didnt read all of the write up instead of just fobbing of congo with a totally wrong reply. You have to remember some people on here take your word as gospel, so its your duty to make sure what you tell them is right and not just anything because you cant be bothered to resurch the facts.
but on a good note at least you now relies that midnight express contains abrasives :thumb:, you never did thank me for correcting you that it contains abrasives 
Anyway here is the write up off chem guys usa web site. if you want to go direct to there site blacklight is in the glaze section, not the sealant section.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Black_Light_Hybrid_Radiant_Finish_16_oz_p/gap_619_16.htm


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> Its the official write up on chemical guys :wall: . like you said the manufacturer is the best person to ask. Its a pitty you didnt read all of the write up instead of just fobbing of congo with a totally wrong reply. You have to remember some people on here take your word as gospel, so its your duty to make sure what you tell them is right and not just anything because you cant be bothered to resurch the facts.
> but on a good note at least you now relies that midnight express contains abrasives :thumb:, you never did thank me for correcting you that it contains abrasives
> Anyway here is the write up off chem guys usa web site. if you want to go direct to there site blacklight is in the glaze section, not the sealant section.
> 
> http://www.chemicalguys.com/Black_Light_Hybrid_Radiant_Finish_16_oz_p/gap_619_16.htm


You give yourself WAY too much credit. Show me where you corrected me about Midnight Express. If you weren't so stuck on yourself, I might actually listen to what you had to say. 

So that you get your FACTS straight, Todd works for Esoteric Auto Detail. He did the writeup on his blog and CG posted on their website. So that's TODD's take on the product. Thanks for doing your "RESEARCH".


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


> You give yourself WAY too much credit. Show me where you corrected me about Midnight Express. If you weren't so stuck on yourself, I might actually listen to what you had to say.
> 
> So that you get your FACTS straight, Todd works for Esoteric Auto Detail. He did the writeup on his blog and CG posted on their website. So that's TODD's take on the product. Thanks for doing your "RESEARCH".


the table at the bottom where it says its an AIO is what chemical guys added them self and it is in the glaze section :wall::wall:
but on top of that trying it on single stage paint and seeing the paint onthe towel and the scratch being removed was the best "RESEARCH" i did


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> the table at the bottom where it says its an AIO is what chemical guys added them self and it is in the glaze section :wall::wall:
> but on top of that trying it on single stage paint and seeing the paint onthe towel and the scratch being removed was the best "RESEARCH" i did


----------



## chongo

Jesus. I only asked.


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


>


:lol::lol::lol: I love how you use that when you get proven wrong :wall::wall:

love how you have added the the sealant/wax video stating express contains polish agents :lol::lol: but you didnt thank me for it still 
midnight express isn;t a sealant it is an AIO with it containing abrasives.but dont take my word
http://www.topoftheline.com/32ozmidswirr.html


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> :lol::lol::lol: I love how you use that when you get proven wrong :wall::wall:
> 
> love how you have added the the sealant/wax video stating express contains polish agents :lol::lol: but you didnt thank me for it still
> midnight express isn;t a sealant it is an AIO with it containing abrasives.but dont take my word
> http://www.topoftheline.com/32ozmidswirr.html


----------



## Ultra

Excuse me for interrupting your argument, but BL is a sealant and marketed as that the fact that it can be used as a aio is irrelevant.


----------



## Junkman2008

dennis said:


> Excuse me for interrupting your argument, but BL is a sealant and marketed as that the fact that it can be used as a aio is irrelevant.


Thank you Dennis. That's the way CG is advertising it so that's what I'm calling it.


----------



## chongo

Ok then, what's the only product that is still used today as it did in 1901, and has not change it in anyway.


----------



## cheekymonkey

dennis said:


> Excuse me for interrupting your argument, but BL is a sealant and marketed as that the fact that it can be used as a aio is irrelevant.


how can you call abrasives in a product as irrelevant it is there for a purpose and not just for show. if it was a sealant the manufacture would put it in its own sealant page, but its not its in the glaze section. i would say as junkman said the manufacturer would know best and they call it an AIO and put it ni the glaze section :thumb:


----------



## cheekymonkey

chongo said:


> Ok then, what's the only product that is still used today as it did in 1901, and has not change it in anyway.


water


----------



## Junkman2008

chongo said:


> Jesus. I only asked.


And I only tried to help, but there are certain trolls on this forum who always want to cause a stink. If you go back and look at all the threads that I have posted, you will notice this pattern with certain trolls.


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


> And I only tried to help, but there are certain trolls on this forum who always want to cause a stink. If you go back and look at all the threads that I have posted, you will notice this pattern with certain trolls.


and luckily i noticed another of your mistakes


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> and luckily i noticed another of your mistakes


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


>


check out this video you did, go forward to 38 mins where you say midnight express doesnt remove scratches it fills them because if it removed scratch it would have to contain abrasives but midnight express doesnt contain abrasives:thumb:. Seems you forgot to remove that bit

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=283265


----------



## Rainbow

Wait a minute, please! I am going to take my popcorns. This "Who's bigger" contest is going to be interesting.

Come on guys. Does it matter if he or anyone has mistaken?


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> check out this video you did, go forward to 38 mins where you say midnight express doesnt remove scratches it fills them because if it removed scratch it would have to contain abrasives but midnight express doesnt contain abrasives:thumb:. Seems you forgot to remove that bit
> 
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=283265


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


>


as always have no reasonable reply use the hater as a defense :wall:


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> as always have no reasonable reply use the hater as a defense :wall:


----------



## cheekymonkey

Rainbow said:


> Wait a minute, please! I am going to take my popcorns. This "Who's bigger" contest is going to be interesting.
> 
> Come on guys. Does it matter if he or anyone has mistaken?


what does matter is the guy asking the question get a proper fact based answer and thats what i supplied. he seemed to take offence to the truth,


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


>


you know think this says it all no answer just the same old same old.as we say its your ball you take it home


----------



## chongo

cheekymonkey said:


> water


Wrong:wave: last clue Meguairs:thumb:


----------



## Rainbow

cheekymonkey said:


> what does matter is the guy asking the question get a proper fact based answer and thats what i supplied. he seemed to take offence to the truth,


From that point of view you're right. I only wanted to mention that it's pointless to argue when you see that the opposite site cannot see it through.


----------



## cheekymonkey

chongo said:


> Wrong:wave: last clue Meguairs:thumb:


so theres 2 then water and ?


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> you know think this says it all no answer just the same old same old.as we say its your ball you take it home


----------



## cheekymonkey

Rainbow said:


> From that point of view you're right. I only wanted to mention that it's pointless to argue when you see that the opposite site cannot see it through.


your right but its not his pride and joy his mistakes are being used on. like the time he told someone there is no such thing as soft paint they are all the same.
Again that got the same answer as the one above, a rather childish one at that


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> ... Again that got the same answer as the one above, a rather childish one at that


And you keep responding to it, don't you? Upsets you, doesn't it? So who's the cry baby because I won't play your game?


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


> And you keep responding to it, don't you? Upsets you, doesn't it? So who's the cry baby because I won't play your game?


thats better this one is soooooooooooooo much more like you, but wheres your glasses 

game its no game its you contradict your self then use that hater when you have no answer, but people on here are seeing the real you


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> thats better this one is soooooooooooooo much more like you, but wheres your glasses
> 
> game its no game its you contradict your self then use that hater when you have no answer, but people on here are seeing the real you


Damn, you really need to spend less time hating and learn to write proper English. By the way...


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


> Damn, you really need to spend less time hating and learn to write proper English. By the way...


wow you really are grabbing at straws now, and your right my spelling is terrible, but being dyslexic i, as others get use to this sort of narrow minded low digs.


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> wow you really are grabbing at straws now, and your right my spelling is terrible, but being dyslexic i, as others get use to this sort of narrow minded low digs.


----------



## chongo

cheekymonkey said:


> so theres 2 then water and ?


The bottle has change a bit. Come on guys, put the AK/47 away and get your heads around this one:tumbleweed: chongo


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


>


well that says everything, still not man enough to answer that question about your video. explain to all the members why you said midnight express contains no polishes and stop putting it off with this rubbish.


----------



## chongo

Junkman, as an ex soldier 22+ let it go! and you still not replied to my question(1901)


----------



## chongo

Answer anyone..


----------



## cheekymonkey

chongo said:


> Answer anyone..


what was the question?


----------



## chongo

cheekymonkey said:


> what was the question?


What is the only product by Meg's that is used today that has not changed since 1901. :wall:


----------



## cheekymonkey

chongo said:


> What is the only product by Meg's that is used today that has not changed since 1901. :wall:


O that one :thumb: is it cleaner wax


----------



## chongo

cheekymonkey said:


> O that one :thumb: is it cleaner wax


Wrong:wave::tumbleweed:


----------



## SPARTAN

Is it Mirror Glaze ? (Or maybe a furniture wax !)


----------



## muzzer

Guys, if you must have an argument, please don't do it on a thread meant to help novices out, it isnt the right message in my very humble opinion


----------



## kenny wilson

I agree entirely with Muzzer, this thread helped me a lot, became a reference and was one I linked to those seeking a wee pointer. One only has to see the amount of nods towards it by many others.
Please, all sides, do not turn this into some petty schoolyard point scoring.
Start a new yah boo thread by all means, tho I doubt you'll reach agreement, but, let this stand.


----------



## smegal

Good guide. Thank you


----------



## chongo

SPARTAN said:


> Is it Mirror Glaze ? (Or maybe a furniture wax !)


Well done spartan:thumb:


----------



## chongo

chongo said:


> Well done spartan:thumb:


Nearly got it:wave:


----------



## SPARTAN

C'mon then don't be a tease, what's the answer ?


----------



## chongo

Ok then. #7 show glaze.


----------



## S63

Cheekymonkey.
Since joining, Junkman has posted dozen of threads including write ups and videos, they have received hundreds of thousands in views and the number of thanks are too many to count.

Since joining a year before you have never posted a single write up or video, yet you have this amazing knowledge of so many products.

Without the input from members like Junkman this forum would cease to exist, I'm no expert myself but would think it highly likely that the Junkman isn't necessarily correct 100% all of the time,so why don't you channel some of your late night energy into joining these members with your own contributions rather than this constant baiting of a very valued member?


----------



## SPARTAN

chongo said:


> Ok then. #7 show glaze.


So I'm correct then as that's a Mirror Glaze :thumb: :lol:


----------



## Gaffa22

Well said Junkman you da man


----------



## WHIZZER

Chaps lets keep things nice please !!!


----------



## nick_mcuk

Well said Junkman.


----------



## WHIZZER

I'm closing this NOW everybody can go off and cool down remember "it's only wax ? " or is it a sealant or glaze in this case


----------



## A&J

Two new videos from the Junkman if anyone is interested











:wave:


----------



## nick_mcuk

Watch out on using the magic sponges they are more abrasive than using a brush on your interior for sure....great for removing scuffs etc but they will cause damage.

If you ever want to see get a painted surface and rub it with one with the same pressure you would on the interior....you will see its almost like using 3000 grit wet and dry paper...in fact I did use one a couple of years back to remove some light scuffs/scratches before machine polishing the area back to gloss.


----------



## A&J

nick_mcuk said:


> Watch out on using the magic sponges they are more abrasive than using a brush on your interior for sure....great for removing scuffs etc but they will cause damage.
> 
> If you ever want to see get a painted surface and rub it with one with the same pressure you would on the interior....you will see its almost like using 3000 grit wet and dry paper...in fact I did use one a couple of years back to remove some light scuffs/scratches before machine polishing the area back to gloss.


I was thinking the same thing when I was watching it. Magic erasers are like very fine grit sand paper. And the Junkman was telling about how plastic panels have a protective layer on top...and I was saying to myself "wont that magic eraser partially remove that layer as it is sanding it"? Isnt it safer to use a soft brush and some apc or even car soap for frequent use?

Now I am sure that you cant remove the protective layer after the first time using the magic eraser but using it frequently for a long time???...i dont know man...Same thing with leather. Wont it damage that to after a while?


----------



## Junkman2008

nick_mcuk said:


> Watch out on using the magic sponges they are more abrasive than using a brush on your interior for sure....great for removing scuffs etc but they will cause damage.
> 
> If you ever want to see get a painted surface and rub it with one with the same pressure you would on the interior....you will see its almost like using 3000 grit wet and dry paper...in fact I did use one a couple of years back to remove some light scuffs/scratches before machine polishing the area back to gloss.


Actually, the magic eraser is no where close to being as abrasive as a brush. The technical name for the magic eraser is Melamine foam and has a long history as a soundproofing material for studios, sound stages, auditoriums, and the like. I definitely wouldn't use it on paint but it's fine on the textured interior pieces of your car.


----------



## Junkman2008

A&J said:


> ... Same thing with leather. Wont it damage that to after a while?


Why in the world would you use it on leather? In the video, I was VERY specific in saying that you should only use it on the textured pieces of your interior.


----------



## A&J

Junkman2008 said:


> Why in the world would you use it on leather? In the video, I was VERY specific in saying that you should only use it on the textured pieces of your interior.


Scuffs


----------



## Junkman2008

No. Real leather can be dyed and depending on the quality of that leather, the dye could be VERY light. Anything abrasive on leather is just asking for trouble. You never use something abrasive on leather. Suede is a slightly different story but there is a special kit for that.


----------



## A&J

Junkman2008 said:


> No. Real leather can be dyed and depending on the quality of that leather, the dye could be VERY light. Anything abrasive on leather is just asking for trouble. You never use something abrasive on leather. Suede is a slightly different story but there is a special kit for that.


Thanks...will look into other alternatives.

BTW great idea for a smaller drying towel...you convinced me to buy a smaller towel as my curent waffle weave is "to big" and it is nearing the end of its life (getting rougher, stitches are torn apart).


----------



## Junkman2008

The 2 main problems that I always had with big towels were wringing them out and having them touch the ground when drying the bottom of the car. That's why I never used them.


----------



## A&J

I had a problem wringing it out as it was too big...

...as for your other problem i always folded my towel into 1/4 so it was smaller, easier to grab and I had more control over it. 

Anyways i am looking forward to your next videos and advice.

:wave:
A&J


----------



## bradleymarky

Junkman2008 said:


> The 2 main problems that I always had with big towels were wringing them out and having them touch the ground when drying the bottom of the car. That's why I never used them.


This was the problem i was having so i cut it in half


----------



## Junkman2008

bradleymarky said:


> This was the problem i was having so i cut it in half


Good idea. :thumb:


----------



## cossiecol

Made sticky for users looking for this guide.


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks mate.


----------



## Joely P

Another big thanks from me (1st post) for the informative and entertaining videos Junkman. I had been planning to pay someone to remove the light swirls from my paint, but now I am armed with these guides, I will tackle the job myself. Also it's a good kick up the backside to ensure that future washing procedures are carried out safely to make it last longer; I do far too many quick wipe down washing procedures after driving to shows etc.

I have watched most of the videos, but only once so far so I have a bit more time and note taking to go before I'm ready for the big buff! Meanwhile, cleanyourcar.co.uk can prepare my order. I'm interested in the DVD you have available but I cannot send or receive (I think) PMs until I reach 10 posts so feel free to ask me 9 individual questions...

Thanks again Junkman :thumb:
Regards,
Joel.


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> ... I'm interested in the DVD you have available but I cannot send or receive (I think) PMs until I reach 10 posts so feel free to ask me 9 individual questions...
> 
> Thanks again Junkman :thumb:
> Regards,
> Joel.


Okay, give me 9 different takeaways that you've picked up from my videos in 9 different post. I'm mainly concerned about the washing and polishing aspects, as they are EQUALLY important and both affect each other. Feel free to elaborate on any point and when I see the need, I will interject on each facet you bring up. The things that you highlight will also help other novices who are reading this. You will quickly have your nine post in an hour or so.


----------



## leecarey212

Just want to say thanks junkman your videos gave me the confidence to try a da and Polish my car and wow what a difference I've been able to get loads of scuffs and scratches out and keep my paint great. Thank you very much for your time and effort in your videos !!

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


----------



## Joely P

Ok my first takeaway is technique trumps product


----------



## Junkman2008

leecarey212 said:


> Just want to say thanks junkman your videos gave me the confidence to try a da and Polish my car and wow what a difference I've been able to get loads of scuffs and scratches out and keep my paint great. Thank you very much for your time and effort in your videos !!


Glad I could help mate.


----------



## Joely P

My second, which are hanging and drying after their pre-use wash, is my new set of eagle edgeless blue towels, my waffle weave towels and a test wash mitt from a UK supplier called ragmasteruk, who sell the recommended towels from your videos (including the pluffle but they were nil stock when I ordered!). Many of my old microfibre towels have been relegated to my daily drive car, who's paint isn't great! After the "looking after your towels" video (although I confess to have only watched it once so far), the wife was under special instructions to get some washing liquid made for allergies and has today completed the first wash; with a couple of cheap towels to catch all the rubbish!


----------



## Joely P

Third; foam car and 2 bucket wash. I have a snow foam lance that I use in conjunction with a karcher "pressure washer" as the water pressure here struggles to produce any sort of foam. I can't seem to find a gadget like you use (which doesn't do the job it was designed for very well!) but my foam lance does do the job, however I find that the foam is either too watery or so thick that if I don't physically make an effort to break it down to get it down the drain, it stays put for days, even outside after rain! I need to work on my dilution ratios! I'm using the recommended premix ratio but the adjustment on the lance is where I need to improve.

Did I hear correctly that you foam your car then hand wash it after the foam has had time to soak/dwell? I've always foamed the car, let it soak, then rinse it all off with the hose (hopefully taking some of the dirt with it); then hand wash it. Should I hand wash it with the car foamed to act as a lubricant?


----------



## Joely P

4. A good thorough claying to ensure that no contaminants remain on the paint. I do have a fair amount of clay from a kit I purchased a while back, however, when buying clay here in the UK, it seems to market is a bit more diluted with several different types with different grades. I'm yet to get my head around that so more research is required there.


----------



## Joely P

5. Unfortunately, ultimate use, detail juice is not available here but I did find a gallon bottle of megs detail spray that can be diluted 1:1, value for money will be hard to match on that front here in the UK.


----------



## Joely P

So I have the das6pro on order with 3 white hexlogic pads (I'll have to get the orange from another supplier as they're nil stock at the moment), and the megs 105/205 combo.

I have played it over in my head with the 4 large peas on the pad, dab over a 1.5sqft section and quickly spread across the area on speed 1 to prime the pad. Then increase the da speed to 5 and slowly work 3 times forwards and backwards, 3 times side to side, then stop and inspect. Bare in mind I've only watched the video once though so I kinda feel as though I'm breaking the rules here! These are just steps I have running over in my head I guess.


----------



## Joely P

A big takeaway was the fact that you do all of this inside the garage. I have a small single garage that I can do most of the polishing process inside (I will have to jiggle and move the car about to do different sides but as it's such a long process that's fine), but we have been in the planning/design stages of a side extension to the house which will give me a double garage. Since watching these videos, I have added a water drain inside the garage plan so I can carry it the full wash process inside. Something I've never previously done or considered doing.


----------



## Joely P

8. Watching your videos has shown me how I need to tidy up my clean towel storage solution. It will become easier with more space but I do like the plastic containers you store your clean towels in.


----------



## Joely P

Now for my tenth post. All of these points have been off the top of my head, in between preparing dinner and entertaining 2 young children, although not much of the above is getting done! Another new philosophy I need to adopt is the drying process. I have my eye on the master blaster but for the moment I will try and source a cheap leaf blower to get the job done. So far I have never dried a car without using a towel but have always considered a leaf blower to get the excess water out of the panels etc, until now I have driven the car round the block and come back home; ready for waxing!! (Sacrilege)

So, about this DVD and the exclusive content...


----------



## A&J

Joely P said:


> 5. Unfortunately, ultimate use, detail juice is not available here but I did find a gallon bottle of megs detail spray that can be diluted 1:1, value for money will be hard to match on that front here in the UK.


Onr is cheaper and can be used as a clay lube amongst other things. 15 or 30 ml per liter of water is all it takes to make a clay lube out of onr so no need for megs qd:thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> My second, which are hanging and drying after their pre-use wash, is my new set of eagle edgeless blue towels, my waffle weave towels and a test wash mitt from a UK supplier called ragmasteruk, who sell the recommended towels from your videos (including the pluffle but they were nil stock when I ordered!). Many of my old microfibre towels have been relegated to my daily drive car, who's paint isn't great! After the "looking after your towels" video (although I confess to have only watched it once so far), the wife was under special instructions to get some washing liquid made for allergies and has today completed the first wash; with a couple of cheap towels to catch all the rubbish!


Good. I see that you paid attention there. Towels are very important to the overall appearance of your paint and the company that you mentioned is a good one to deal with.


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> ... Did I hear correctly that you foam your car then hand wash it after the foam has had time to soak/dwell? I've always foamed the car, let it soak, then rinse it all off with the hose (hopefully taking some of the dirt with it); then hand wash it. Should I hand wash it with the car foamed to act as a lubricant?


Since I use a foam gun and you use a foam cannon, what I do and what you should do may vary. But as to exactly what I do, that's in the video and if you don't remember, guess what my answer is going to be.


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> 4. A good thorough claying to ensure that no contaminants remain on the paint. I do have a fair amount of clay from a kit I purchased a while back, however, when buying clay here in the UK, it seems to market is a bit more diluted with several different types with different grades. I'm yet to get my head around that so more research is required there.


The only clay that you are interested in is the LIGHTEST grade that you can find.


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> 5. Unfortunately, ultimate use, detail juice is not available here but I did find a gallon bottle of megs detail spray that can be diluted 1:1, value for money will be hard to match on that front here in the UK.


I addressed this in my claying video.


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> So I have the das6pro on order with 3 white hexlogic pads (I'll have to get the orange from another supplier as they're nil stock at the moment), and the megs 105/205 combo.
> 
> I have played it over in my head with the 4 large peas on the pad, dab over a 1.5sqft section and quickly spread across the area on speed 1 to prime the pad. Then increase the da speed to 5 and slowly work 3 times forwards and backwards, 3 times side to side, then stop and inspect. Bare in mind I've only watched the video once though so I kinda feel as though I'm breaking the rules here! These are just steps I have running over in my head I guess.


Yes, you need to watch those video AGAIN.


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> A big takeaway was the fact that you do all of this inside the garage. I have a small single garage that I can do most of the polishing process inside (I will have to jiggle and move the car about to do different sides but as it's such a long process that's fine), but we have been in the planning/design stages of a side extension to the house which will give me a double garage. Since watching these videos, I have added a water drain inside the garage plan so I can carry it the full wash process inside. Something I've never previously done or considered doing.


Once you get use to having a drain inside your garage, you will never own a garage without one.


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> ... until now I have driven the car round the block and come back home; ready for waxing!! (Sacrilege)


I cringe like the Scrooge when guys do this. Every drop of water on the car is picking up dirt particles when you do this and then you finish grinding that dirt into your paint as you finish the process off by wiping on the car afterward. One of the worse things that you could possible do and one of the quickest ways to get your paint on the road to swirl city!



Joely P said:


> So, about this DVD and the exclusive content...


Did you watch the video about the DVD's?


----------



## Joely P

A&J said:


> Onr is cheaper and can be used as a clay lube amongst other things. 15 or 30 ml per liter of water is all it takes to make a clay lube out of onr so no need for megs qd:thumb:


Thanks A&J, I get some of that 



Junkman2008 said:


> The only clay that you are interested in is the LIGHTEST grade that you can find.


Thank you very muchly.



Junkman2008 said:


> I cringe like the Scrooge when guys do this. Every drop of water on the car is picking up dirt particles when you do this and then you finish grinding that dirt into your paint as you finish the process off by wiping on the car afterward. One of the worse things that you could possible do and one of the quickest ways to get your paint on the road to swirl city!
> 
> Did you watch the video about the DVD's?


I cringe myself doing it at times, a combination of laziness, lack of common sense and time constraints are responsible! Knowing I can make a difference and what I can do to fix those things are motivating a change.

I have now watched your DVD video. Along with the claying 101, and the speed of the polisher videos, these are the only videos I haven't seen yet, that are available for public viewing. I've since watched the claying video and will watch the polishing speed one at some point soon.

I was slightly confused when I stumbled across the "polishing the side of your car" video, which is the orange truck nestled in with the replies of this thread (it's taken me a few days to read through this thread!), but I now realise that you have private videos too. Kinda seemed like there should've been a part 5 to the series in this thread?

Have you any more DVDs in the making that I should wait for to avoid another shipping charge soon?


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> ... Have you any more DVDs in the making that I should wait for to avoid another shipping charge soon?


The easiest thing to do is to watch my video playlist that I have posted on my You Tube channel. It's good to read through this thread but what you have to take into consideration is that I started this thread 4 years ago. Some things have changed since then (like the videos I reference to get a point across). My playlist is ALWAYS up to date and current with the videos that I feel you need to watch and the order that you need to watch them. So if you start with my video playlist, you will never go wrong as far as which videos that I feel you need to watch on my channel. Most are posted here but they are spread all over the place.


----------



## Joely P

Yeah, I have been ploughing through your playlist. My learning is still very much in its infancy though having only discovered your videos a few days ago, my second, note taking session will be in order as per your advice. I was more referring to a potential DVD #3 in the making so I could combine the shipping but that has lead me to a new question: the DVD price + shipping, would 1 shipping cost cover 2 DVDs or is it DVD price + shipping per DVD?


----------



## cossiecol

Just a reminder that the sale of goods must be done via the sales section and not on the open forum or by PM


----------



## Junkman2008

cossiecol said:


> Just a reminder that the sale of goods must be done via the sales section and not on the open forum or by PM


Got it, sorry about that. :thumb:


----------



## Ecce

Am worn out now after all those videos Junkman!

I last had a play with my DA Polisher about 3 years ago and did an ok job but not brilliant (see what I did there?).

Am just waiting for a couple of bits then will spend some time having another polish. I have a 5" backing plate and getting some new 5 1/2 hex logic pads (I watched the videos). There are a few areas where even a 4" backing plate with be too wide - am I best just trying to do those by hand?

I might get away with masking off the soft top to do the bodywork between that and the windscreen (maybe 3 inches wide) but think I'll struggle at the front end and the main bits I think I'll struggle on are the panels either side of the number plate - got any tips? btw the front splitter is black plasti-dip so don't want to get the DA anywhere near it! (if you saw how long it took me to remove the splitter to get repaired you'll understand why I'd rather not do it again).










Thanks in advance


----------



## Junkman2008

Ecce said:


> Am worn out now after all those videos Junkman!


It won't hurt if you watch them again. Trust me, the first few times through them, you'll see something new that you missed the previous time watching them.



Ecce said:


> I have a 5" backing plate and getting some new 5 1/2 hex logic pads (I watched the videos). There are a few areas where even a 4" backing plate with be too wide - am I best just trying to do those by hand?


Working by hand is like having sex for virginity. There are ways to manipulate the polisher in order to get into tight places OR you can do what I do: get a pad and backplate made for small areas. Check out this video from the 20:34 point.








Ecce said:


> I might get away with masking off the soft top to do the bodywork between that and the windscreen (maybe 3 inches wide) but think I'll struggle at the front end and the main bits I think I'll struggle on are the panels either side of the number plate - got any tips?


Again, that video will help.


----------



## Ecce

Cheers, just been out to the shed and found a 4" backing plate so shall get a couple of pads for it.


----------



## Junkman2008

The back plate is a 3" back plate. The pads are called 4" pads, although they are more like 3.75".


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## Ecce

Junkman2008 said:


> The back plate is a 3" back plate. The pads are called 4" pads, although they are more like 3.75".


Sorry, yes, measured it and it was 8.5cm (ish) so 3.3 inches? Just checked the invoice from 2011 and it says...

3.5" Dual-Action Spot Pad Backing Plate (43-085DA)

For a DAS-6 PRO btw


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## Junkman2008

That's more like it.


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## Ecce

Junkman2008 said:


> That's more like it.


I'm learning and picking up some Junkman phrases at the same time


----------



## Junkman2008

Make sure that you pick up one of the most important ones...

"Technique trumps product, 24/7/365."


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## Ecce

Junkman2008 said:


> Make sure that you pick up one of the most important ones...
> 
> "Technique trumps product, 24/7/365."


Ah, this is one that has been worrying me, I understand what you are saying and it may be an 'Americanism' but surely 24/7 is enough? 24/7/365 is seven years isn't it?

Really enjoy your vids but trying to keep to the main beginners vids and not confuse myself when you use different products etc.

Oh saw the Blue Lamborghini video - you have some b&lls to wet and dry that!


----------



## cossiecol

Ecce said:


> Ah, this is one that has been worrying me, I understand what you are saying and it may be an 'Americanism' but surely 24/7 is enough? 24/7/365 is seven years isn't it?


24 hours
7 days a week
365 days a year


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## Junkman2008

24 = hours.
7 = days
365 = all year long.

No matter what product you use, you will always get outstanding results if you use a quality product and you know what you are doing.


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## Ecce

Yup, got that guys and thanks, I must be in an anal mood tonight and think it should be

24 hours
7 days a week
*52 weeks a year*

anyways, that's semantics and I should be spending more time learning technique


----------



## Daeron

well I just wanted to thank Junkman2008. as you said in your vidz, I'm one of those who read-watched vidz, read-watched vidz but I never ever got it so clear.
I'm still a bit indimidated but will start the work with much more knowledge.
again, thank you so much!


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks for watching Daeron. If you get yourself a DAS-6 Pro, you won't have anything to be intimated about. You ain't gonna damage anything with that machine.


----------



## Daeron

in Italy they sell the Shine Mate Ero600 very well. have you ever heard about that machine?


----------



## Junkman2008

Yes, it's basically the same thing. You can use that one too, although the DAS-6 Pro is more proven as far as quality goes.


----------



## Daeron

hi Junkman!
may I ask you something? how long would you take, with your experience and your technique, to polish the entire car seen in the video? I know that in reality you will never use the PC to do that, but I'm just curious


----------



## Junkman2008

I would never paint correct that car because the paint is too far gone. I would have to actually repaint it, and that's only after I got done replacing all of the rusted panels.


----------



## A&J

I think Daeron meant to ask "How long would you need to polish the entire car with the method shown in your DVD?"

I dont think he was refering to your car but rather the size of the car and the time needed to polish it.


----------



## Junkman2008

For me, the size of the car has nothing to do with how long it takes me to complete it. This is why I don't detail cars for a living and why I charge $1000 just to start paint correcting a car alone.

For me, I have to be in a zone to even get started. I have to have no distractions, no worries, no anything on my mind but that car. Once I start, I may work 15 hours straight and complete only 1/3 of the car. Maybe not even that much because I'm going for perfection. So when someone brings me a car and ask me how long is it going to take, I tell them to leave it for 30 days and don't call me. I treat every car that I fix like it is my own. I take ownership in that car because when it leaves my garage, it is a rolling billboard of my abilities. There is no way that I can put a time limit on what I do because every time, it's different.

One more thing, on my DVD, I show me using the Flex-3401VRG, a dual-action polisher. In reality, I would use 3 different polishers. The Makita-9227C, the Flex-3401VRG amd the PC-7424XP. I might even throw the Bosch-1250DVES in there for some spots. The thing is, I never do the same car the same exact way twice because I go in and out of my zone at different times.

So I can't put a time limit on anything like this because it is more like getting the opportunity to make love to Miss Universe, with the intention of impressing her to come back for more. It's one shot and you don't rush anything. To someone who doesn't feel the passion that I feel when I do this stuff, what I am saying makes no sense. To someone who does this for a living, what I am saying is ludicrous. To someone like myself who does this for therapy, what I am saying is how we do this. Time is of no concern Only perfection. But I always get the cars that I do completed somewhere within those 30 days that I require. That was the deal with this car:

Before:


















































































After:


















































































And because photographs can be edited, here's the video. By the way, there's absolutely NO WAX on that car whatsoever. It was a trick question. That's what polishing with a sound technique can do for black cars.


----------



## Joely P

I have watched the videos as required, I have made my notes, I have practised the 9-14lbs of pressure and I have this little lot to add to my detailing arsenal, now I just need to find the time to get to work!


----------



## Junkman2008

Looks like you're loaded for bear!


----------



## Joely P

And this is what I'm working with. Many people compliment me on the condition of my paint, however I know that it's far from pristine and the Junkman will likely cringe at the condition! This is all caused by bad habits/technique pulling up to car shows, whipping out a bottle of pretend magic potion, and rubbing all the dirt into the paint with a cheap microfibre sandpaper cloth! I'm actually surprised it's not worse than it is, but now I have a common sense switch flicked over, I will change the way I operate.

In the video/pictures, the car hasn't been washed and has been sitting in the garage for a while so it has a few extra marks/spots, but you can clearly see the swirl marks around the reflection of the sun. The pictures are of the bootlid from different distances:

































I look forward to eliminating these little devils and keeping them at bay from now on. I plan to start with a few passes of the 205/white pad, on an area of the bonnet to gauge how deep they are.


----------



## Junkman2008

Nice car. :thumb:

Good starting plan. I was going to recommend that you do that. You have a VERY manageable job there. Take your time and enjoy the trip. There is no reason that you can't achieve perfection with that amount of damage. Just don't rush it and DEFINITELY don't do the entire car until you can get ONE SPOT PERFECT. That sunbeam is going to be judge, jury and executioner as to how well your progress is going. *Just make sure that you are not working directly in it.*


----------



## Joely P

Thanks for the advice  For some reason I can't seem to "thank" your post, maybe I'm still too much of a newbie! I have just enough room in the garage to be able to polish it inside, but unfortunately, for now I don't have the facility to wash it inside. Look forward to do it start to finish out of the elements one day :thumb:


----------



## Junkman2008

James is in da' house! James is on my All World Detailing Team.


----------



## Joely P

Update: I had a good 5 hours go at this today and finally lost my machine polishing virginity!

I gave the bonnet a good claying and tested it with a baggie. For photographic effect, I decided to mask off my starting area. Here's a quick reminder of what I'm working with:















After my first pass with a white pad primed with M205, this was the result:






It still has a fair amount of swirl damage remaining, but for 1 pass the difference is significant. I gave it another couple of passes and it was looking a lot but I wasn't happy as it left a few of the small, deeper swirls behind. Result of 3 white passes shown on the right here with the untouched finish on the left:










I then decided to break out the orange pad as I thought 4+ passes over the whole car would be excessive (the paint condition is very similar all over). I made an executive decision at this point to break the Junkman rules by moving onto the area next to where I had been working; the reason for this was simply so I could experience and compare cut-rates between 1 pass of orange to 3 passes of white.

With 1 pass of the orange pad on a fresh area (working a bit more on a couple of concentrated, deeper scratches), the finish had slightly less swirls than the 3 white passes area. Happy with that, I gave the first area a quick breeze over with the orange to even the finish. This was the result:






I finished it off with a couple of white pad passes over the 2 areas (separately) and was happy with the finish. I removed the "non-residue" masking tape (that left a residue!) and wow, what a difference:
























Time had flown by and the kids were home from school so I sprayed my pads with a 10:1 solution of Megs APC from a foaming sprayer and left them to dwell whilst I tidied up cleaning them afterwards as per the pad cleaning video (worked a treat).

I followed the Junkman's guides to the letter and I think it was a very successful start to this project and my introduction into machine polishing. By the end I had a good feel for the speed and general use of the Das6, I will hopefully get another few hours to do some more tomorrow, probably quite a bit more now I'm more familiar.

A big thanks to Junkman for taking the time to make these videos and a big recommendation from me if anyone is considering taking the plunge and tackling this job themselves. It's likely I will not update the thread for a while as it will just be more of the same (and it's a pain to keep stopping to take pictures!) so I'll keep plodding along with this over the coming weeks/months.

Joel.


----------



## A&J

Great write up...just the entire car to go!


----------



## Junkman2008

Joely P said:


> ... (and it's a pain to keep stopping to take pictures!)
> 
> Joel.


Try making videos about doing this stuff! It takes HOURS to produce a 30-minute video with the amount of info I put in them. That's why I send people back to the videos when they ask me questions about stuff I've answered in the videos. You just got a taste of how much work it is and I don't get paid to do it! 

You have definitely made progress. I would have had you start with M105 if I could have seen that bonnet in person. That puppy was brutal. Once you get good at this, you will be able to look at some damage and know exactly where to start. Here's another thing. You are going to quickly see ANYTHING you do wrong to your paint once it's fixed. Use a cheap towel? DAMAGE. Wipe dust off the car the wrong way? DAMAGE. Use a quick detailer to remove dust? DAMAGE. You have went down the rabbit hole, unplugged yourself from the paint Matrix and have ventured into Wonderland. From this point forward, you will be able to see swirls everywhere you go and cringe is an understatement. Wait until your next car show. Holy cow!

Good job mate, you are on your way. :thumb:


----------



## Joely P

Your time is very much appreciated matey.

I've noticed after my final pass with a white pad/205 that there are still remanence of tiny swirls. You have to get really quite close to spot them and they're difficult to pick up on a video but I managed to capture it quite well in the video below. (The swirly section I move into for contrast is an area prepped by the orange pad/105)






It's worth noting that after the final white pad pass and initial buffing of the area yesterday, these swirls were practically invisible. However, it seems that as soon as I prepare the surface for sealing with a light spritz of IPA (I've also tried QD), once I've very gently wiped it off with a waffle weave, it uncovers more swirls.

My question is:
- do you think it's possible that I've reached the limitation of the 205 on my paint type (it seems remarkably soft - I witnessed putting in fine scratches with the eagle edgeless trying to remove a stubborn polish mark!) 
- or do I simply need to continue until these (deeper) swirls have gone and make sure my technique is on point?


----------



## Junkman2008

Do you remember this part of my video?










Do you remember how I explained scratch damage? Do you remember what I said about what is going on when the work you are doing seems to no longer be effective?

Do you remember how long I said that you are supposed to use M105 BEFORE you move to M205 (which is in a different video of this series)? If you can answer ALL of those questions, then you will in fact answer the two questions that you have just asked me.


----------



## Joely P

Affirm, more polishing it is. The wipe with IPA threw me, it looked great before that!


----------



## Junkman2008

It's a learning process. You can't get years of experience in just one attempt. If I had a dollar for every hour I have spent on a car since 1977, I could buy the world.


----------



## Joely P

Had another play today. 6 passes with the orange pad, buffing and checking each time and it looked very similar each pass (what I would call a mixture of fine and micro swirls). The worst of the marks left by the orange pad were larger than the small ones remaining after my finishing before so I'm fairly convinced it's not just deeper damage and I'm over 10 passes with the orange pad in one area now!

I did another 6 passes with the white pad (again checking each time), after 2 or 3 passes the finish remained the same but seems almost random. I'm happy that I have the correct amount of polish on the pad and am pretty good at working it to, or just before, the point of flashing. I'm also happy that I'm not exceeding 14lbs of pressure, tested again on the scales to be sure.

After scratching my head a little (not with a cutting compound!) trying to find pitfalls in my technique or a reason, I thought I'd do a quick experiment. I went out into the garage and using an Autoglym "perfect polish applicator pad" that I had sealed in a box (ok they're far from perfect polishing pads but they'll do for this experiment):

I applied some of the 205 and extremely lightly, less than the weight of my hand, hand polished a small area for a minute or 2. After I did that this was the result. (You can tell the area I did as I scroll over it from the "finished section" next to it):






Based on this mass of swirls, I'm convinced that my lacquer is soft! I'll try and experiment using very light pressure (just letting the machine weight polish) on a pass with a white pad but is there possibly a different pad or polish (or both) combo that I can try that are even finer cutting than these?


----------



## Junkman2008

Did you do an IPA wipe down AFTER using M105? With as many cars as I have done with this combination, the only time that I have ever seen what you are describing is when the paint STILL had deeper damage in it. You are over-estimating just how much work you are doing. Let's put it this way. It would take around 40 or more passes with the polisher you are using to equal the work of ONE pass with a rotary. That's how SAFE that polisher is, just as I explained in my videos.


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


> Did you do an IPA wipe down AFTER using M105? With as many cars as I have done with this combination, the only time that I have ever seen what you are describing is when the paint STILL had deeper damage in it. *You are over-estimating just how much work you are doing. Let's put it this way. It would take around 40 or more passes with the polisher you are using to equal the work of ONE pass with a rotary. That's how SAFE that polisher is,* just as I explained in my videos.


there are to many unknown variables for you or anyone to claim there is no possibility of causing any damage to the paint. Has the paint been checked for thickness, If not could be right on edge of going through. 
The car in question doesn't have american hard paint that you are use to but soft jap paint. with a da and a orange pad using 105 it wont take anywhere near the time you have quoted or think to go through jap paint


----------



## Junkman2008

cheekymonkey said:


> there are to many unknown variables for you or anyone to claim there is no possibility of causing any damage to the paint. Has the paint been checked for thickness, If not could be right on edge of going through.
> The car in question doesn't have american hard paint that you are use to but soft jap paint. with a da and a orange pad using 105 it wont take anywhere near the time you have quoted or think to go through jap paint


Could you please refer us to one of YOUR writeup's that actually show your level of expertise in this area of study? 

I didn't realize that America doesn't have any of the cars you are talking about, which just so happen to be the #1 selling car in the USA.


----------



## Alex L

cheekymonkey said:


> there are to many unknown variables for you or anyone to claim there is no possibility of causing any damage to the paint. Has the paint been checked for thickness, If not could be right on edge of going through.
> The car in question doesn't have american hard paint that you are use to but soft jap paint. with a da and a orange pad using 105 it wont take anywhere near the time you have quoted or think to go through jap paint


And that's why people should watch Mike Phillips videos instead :thumb:


----------



## cossiecol

Guys please watch and not descend into arguments etc, this thread has already been locked at least once for this and as its a really useful guide for beginners it would be a shame to go down that route again!


----------



## Junkman2008

Thank you.


----------



## Ecce

cossiecol said:


> Guys please watch and not descend into arguments etc, this thread has already been locked at least once for this and as its a really useful guide for beginners it would be a shame to go down that route again!


OK, there is more than one way to skin a cat but I find it sad when somebody is called out after they have taken the time to try and help out (not just) beginners to the detailing world.

I have watched all of Junkmans videos, all are informative, some are a little long but for a reason - it's the detail he imparts (along with humour) that has helped me.

Yes, there are lots of 'how too's' on this site, I chose the Junkman method for lots of things and have seen some of the cars he has worked on - the results speak for themselves.

Thanks for all your help Junkman and keep the tips coming please


----------



## cheekymonkey

Joely P said:


> Your time is very much appreciated matey.
> 
> I've noticed after my final pass with a white pad/205 that there are still remanence of tiny swirls. You have to get really quite close to spot them and they're difficult to pick up on a video but I managed to capture it quite well in the video below. (The swirly section I move into for contrast is an area prepped by the orange pad/105)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's worth noting that after the final white pad pass and initial buffing of the area yesterday, these swirls were practically invisible. However, it seems that as soon as I prepare the surface for sealing with a light spritz of IPA (I've also tried QD), once I've very gently wiped it off with a waffle weave, it uncovers more swirls.
> 
> My question is:
> - do you think it's possible that I've reached the limitation of the 205 on my paint type (it seems remarkably soft - I witnessed putting in fine scratches with the eagle edgeless trying to remove a stubborn polish mark!)
> - or do I simply need to continue until these (deeper) swirls have gone and make sure my technique is on point?


change the white polishing pad for a finishing pad and try again with a finer finishing polish may help. If you are producing fine scratches with your towel, then that just shows how soft your paint is, you really should checking your paint thickness before you go any further


----------



## Junkman2008

Ecce said:


> ... Thanks for all your help Junkman and keep the tips coming please


I will do what I can mate. It's a shame that you have to weed through so much crap to get the information that you seek. It seems to be a common theme with certain members here.


----------



## cheekymonkey

Junkman2008 said:


> I will do what I can mate. It's a shame that you have to weed through so much crap to get the information that you seek. It seems to be a common theme with certain members here.


not like that at all junkman you have stated before that there is no such thing as soft paint. Now maybe in america that is true, but unlike over there the jap cars here have soft paint. Infact as joely stated his paint is that soft a quality microfibre towel is marking his paint. Yet you just tell him to keep hitting his paint with course pads and over aggressive polishes.
Like many on here i have not done any videos, i dont have time or can be bothered to do them. With doing such videos like you do comes responsibility.
One of those responsibilities is to know the facts on the subject you are talking about. the same responsibilities apply when your answering someones questions. If you dont know about that subject there is no shame in saying so.
For soft jap paint the technique you are advising joely to use is totally wrong, and that comes from years of experience working on soft jap paint.
105 is far to aggressive for jap paint and a orange pad should not be used either. that combination is what is causing the defects you thought was deeper in the paint. A good starting point would be 205 with the white pad. Nothing more aggressive than a white pad should ever touch soft paint.
Now to finishing, a finishing pad lc red or gold and a polish like scholl s 40 or 3m ultrafina is what you need especially if its for a show. No real pressure is needed through any of the polishing and with the final polishing run support the weight of the polisher so there is no pressure at all. 
It's obvious joely sees his car as his pride and joy and when wrong and dangerous advice is give out as a community others should be able to correct that mistake. If people have a problem with that, then i suggest they get to know the right knowledge in the first place


----------



## muzzer

And at that point i shall step in.

Gentlemen, disagree by all means but DO NOT argue about it in here. I don't want to lock this thread but if you persist, then you will leave me no option.
Please take notice of this suggestion.


----------



## cossiecol

Guys, last warning stop the back and forth/arguing/bickering...basically stop replying to each other. Everyone is entitled to his/her opinion however it has to be put across in a way that dosen't create arguments and takes a tread off topic!


----------



## cossiecol

Thread re-opened now as it's been a few days.

However any comments which take the thread off topic will be removed and most likely the thread will be locked again.


----------



## jduan

great guide. thanks!


----------



## Junkman2008

Thanks for checking it out.


----------



## chongo

Nice to see you back old solider:thumb:

I remember watching my first video of machine polishing and it was you:buffer:
But you had more hair:lol: but on a serious note you have inspired many people around the world and on this forum to go out and practice what you preach/guidance  so it's nice to see your still around and it would be great if you would make more videos on how the industry has moved on with greater technology and improved machine polishers and compounds/polish, as these new bigger throw polishers give the :newbie: a safer option than the older polishers i.e. Rotary :thumb:

M :wave:


----------



## st1965

I for one got into the machine polishing "bug" after watching youtube vids from junkman. I found it very informative and gave me the confidence to get a DA and have a go...and have never looked back ! It was after watching these vids that got me into detailing..so thank you junkman..in my eyes your a legend to the novice detailer looking for advice. Keep up the good work mate.


----------



## Junkman2008

I'm still making videos. I'm doing a big paint correction video right now feature a plethora of different items/techniques that I am uploading sections at a time..


----------



## lee63

Absolutely brilliant. I thought i was ok but your vids have helped me improve my technique so much  thankyou so much for your time and effort to help us all 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Junkman2008

Technique is everything. It will make or break your results.


----------



## matty.13

Love your videos junkman , helped me learn a hell of a lot about detailing . Big up 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Junkman2008

Thanks for watching mate.


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## chongo

So how long have we got to wait for this video on the paint correction video:thumb: haven't watched one in a while bud but looking forward to:wave:


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## Junkman2008

The 5 videos in this thread are all about paint correction from A -Z. Which videos are you speaking of?


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## chongo

Junkman2008 said:


> The 5 videos in this thread are all about paint correction from A -Z. Which videos are you speaking of?


Your new one you are working on bud:thumb:


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## Junkman2008

Those are already posted on my You Tube channel. That video series is already 7 videos long with many more videos to come. You need to get caught up!


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## chongo

Junkman2008 said:


> Those are already posted on my You Tube channel. That video series is already 7 videos long with many more videos to come. You need to get caught up!


Am fine on machine polishing:thumb: just like your video channel  will have a look soon:thumb: you should post some on here


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## Cy-Zuki

I am quite inexperienced at DA usage. Not wishing to open old wounds here but just happened to watch a video last night from Larry at Ammo NYC. In the video Larry had struggled with a black Porche that had "ridiculously soft paint" he ended up finishing off with water!! Never heard of this before so I will try and find the link and edit it in to this post just in case it is of use to someone.
Geoff

Here it is:-


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## Junkman2008

chongo said:


> you should post some on here


I have. Quite a few. :thumb:


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## audiguypaul

Junkman2008 said:


> Technique is everything. It will make or break your results.


you need to repeat that several times to make sure everyone understands :thumb:
Your vids are great and i've had several light bulb moments watching them, did you get to see the eclipse yesterday, no shining out there !!


----------



## Junkman2008

audiguypaul said:


> ... did you get to see the eclipse yesterday, no shining out there !!


:lol: :lol: :lol:

You missed tour calling! Good one! 

As you know, I stress that over and over and over again in my videos. The best way to get that point across is to show people someone with NO technique. If I gave Tiger Woods some golf clubs that were equivalent to garbage and gave another guy some million dollar golf clubs, who would win? Oh, I forgot... the guy Tiger would be playing has NO TECHNIQUE when it comes to his golf swing. Here he is:






That technique is SCARY! :doublesho

Oh, by the way, the eclipse went through my state but it was too far away to really notice anything. ;(


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## audiguypaul

That is shocking and im no golf fan.


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## Junkman2008

:lol::lol:


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## lee63

That golf swing is something else 🤣 ha ha 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Worzel

Great guide, very helpful thanks.


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