# sealant vs wax



## Greg_VXR (Nov 21, 2009)

ok so what are the main differences between the two?
E.g. jetseal 109 and dodo purple haze?
Also does a sealant sheet the water the same as a wax?

Sorry for all the Qs just wondering what the difference really is

Cheers Greg:thumb:


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## Will-S (Jun 5, 2007)

Waxes tend to look warmer on the paint, sealants tend to look a bit glassy.

Longevity tends to be a problem with waxes, although there are more out there now that have significantly better longevity and can give sealants a run for there money.

Most people find sealants easier to apply than waxes. You tend to have to put down a thin layer of wax


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## remal (Dec 10, 2007)

can't help but intrested to see what people reply on as this is also new to me. and I have Jetseal 109, FK 1000Hp and also Dodo Hard candy. So worth asking can I layer Dodo and FK1000HPP over each other? and if so is it best to have the wax at the top. if you get me?


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## Greg_VXR (Nov 21, 2009)

remal said:


> can't help but intrested to see what people reply on as this is also new to me. and I have Jetseal 109, FK 1000Hp and also Dodo Hard candy. So worth asking can I layer Dodo and FK1000HPP over each other? and if so is it best to have the wax at the top. if you get me?


the light i can shed on this is i know that sealants dont bond over waxs but a wax will bound over a sealant fine:thumb:
I dont know if there is any benefit in applying both tbh i prefer one or another but really want to know the *difference between the two* please


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## Will-S (Jun 5, 2007)

Normal practice is to put the wax on top of the sealant to add warmth to the finish.

Sealants have a lot of chemicals in them that if put on before the wax cures (normally 24hrs) can just remove most of the wax.

The OP will find there are many different views on this.


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Polymer, Carnauba Wax Differences*

Sealants look great in my opinion, they add a mirror-like shine, but they tend to have a more sterile appearance. A good natural Carnauba wax should offer a lot more depth and jetting (wet-look)

*Carnauba wax-* when applied to a surface will not adhere properly on its own, solvents and miscible oils are added to enable it to spread evenly to the surface. Natural and synthetic waxes initially adhere by surface tension; the balance of the adherence process is that it works its way via the carrier system (solvent and / or oils) into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the paint film surface, the polymers it contains create a mechanical anchor, a wax does not form a covalent (molecular) bond to the surface. 
*Polymer sealant *- need a porous surface to bond to, they initially adhere by surface tension and then after a period in which the solvents /oils in the carrier system vaporize (outgas) the polymers cross-link to form a covalent (molecular) bond to the surface. 
This process usually requires 12-24 hours, which are time and temperature and / or humidity dependent. As can be seen from the above a polymer must form a molecular bond with the paint surface before the application of a Carnauba wax, otherwise the solvent carrier system that are formulated in the wax may compromise the bonding and durability of the polymer sealant


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## Greg_VXR (Nov 21, 2009)

thanks for that! What difference in protection will you see?


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## slkman (Jun 23, 2009)

I find it rains when I use a sealant.... although I might just be unlucky.


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## Alex1984 (Jan 15, 2009)

i have used both sealants and waxes and they both have good and bad qualities and it is all down to personal preference. I personally prefer waxes as i find them more enjoyable to use and the whole protection process more of an "event". It is a bit like comparing vinyl and cd's with vinyl being wax and cd's being sealant...a rare vinyl might not be as good sound quality as the cd but you just prefer owning the vinyl and it gives something that the cd cannot.


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## The Sheriff (Jul 15, 2008)

Would anyone here really be able two spot a panel that has sealant AND wax, compared to a panel that just has sealent??


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

*Carnauba Waxes:*

*Advantages:*

* A darker, deeper, richer shine.
* Best carnauba waxes produce a liquid, "wet-looking" surface.
* Carnauba waxes tend to hide minor swirls.
* Carnauba waxes bead water (tells user when to re-wax surface).

*Disadvantages:*

* Limited durability (Carnauba starts to melt at 180 degrees F).
50% gone in 30 days, 75% gone in 60 days, re-wax in 90 days.
* Some carnauba waxes harder to apply. (Require more effort to buff off).
* Some carnauba waxes create chalky- white residues and stain trim moldings.
* Low surface adhesion - can be removed by car washes and detergents.
* More prone to water spots.
* Usually requires a strong petroleum solvent base.
* Can cloud and/or streak on dark color cars.
* Can be difficult to apply by machine.

*Polymer Waxes:*

*Advantages:*

* Longer lasting. (Most will last six months or longer)
* Easy to apply.
* Very bright shine.
* Some synthetic waxes sheet water which reduces water spots.
* Stronger surface adhesion resists detergents.
* Usually easy to apply by machine.
* Can be water-based or use a mild mineral spirit.
*
Disadvantages:*

* Bright shine is often referred to as sterile, lacking emotion.
(it does not allow the paints true pigment to show through)
* Tends to high light or amplify minor swirls and paint imperfections.
* Sheeting does not give a visual clue of when to recoat.
* Some products have long cure times between coats.

from properautocare


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

IMHO You must specify the target Do you like very bright shine or darker deeper richer shine , Regardless of its wax or sealant . 
Because there are some carnuba waxes do not bring depth rich shine always and work like a sealants such as p21s concours . And there are some sealants make car darker and warmer such as megs nxt .


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## bryand (Jan 14, 2007)

The Sheriff said:


> Would anyone here really be able two spot a panel that has sealant AND wax, compared to a panel that just has sealent??


Yes, I can. The sealant gives the reflection and the wax gives the roundedness. I prefer to use both, with the advantage that the finish lasts a long time.


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

Greg_VXR said:


> e?
> Also does a sealant sheet the water the same as a wax?
> 
> Cheers Greg:thumb:


Sealant sheet water tighter and reduces water spots but sheet water slower than carnuba wax .


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## sugicalwu (Jan 2, 2010)

MAXI-MILAN said:


> Sealant sheet water tighter and reduces water spots but sheet water slower than carnuba wax .


yes!
my durability test of 476s(nuba wax) and Z3(sealant) performing the different sheeting characteristics.

nuba wax beading water tight than sealant, but there were more water left on the test panel. In opposite, sealant had sheet most water out of the panel, even no water residues!
check the video:thumb:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=148615


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

sugicalwu said:


> yes!
> my durability test of 476s(nuba wax) and Z3(sealant) performing the different sheeting characteristics.
> 
> nuba wax beading water tight than sealant, but there were more water left on the test panel.
> ...


Exactly :thumb: 
Thank you mate i saw this video yesterday :thumb:

recently i applied 3 coat of p21s wax on trunk , i found the sheeting become better and tighter and reduces water spots such as sealant .

colly 476s contain carnuba ?


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## sugicalwu (Jan 2, 2010)

MAXI-MILAN said:


> Exactly :thumb:
> Thank you mate i saw this video yesterday :thumb:
> 
> recently i applied 3 coat of p21s wax on trunk , i found the sheeting become better and tighter and reduces water spots such as sealant .
> ...


from the MSDS data on the collinite official website and FAQ,
we can see that 476s really contain the natural ingradients like carnuba,
but the exactly concentration...that's the business secret.:buffer:


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## Dodo Factory (Apr 11, 2007)

Most products are a mix of sealants and natural waxes - to the extent that threads like this are largely pointless. You don't know what it is in the 'wax' or 'sealant' so how can you make any assumptions that are worth relying on?  What TOGWT has provided is some useful general info surrounding the genres and this is very good food for thought. But then you need to ignore what the label and random forum experts say and test the product for yourself. You may find 'sealants' being quite unsealant like and waxes quite unwax like.

Every product should be treated on its own merits or lack of them. I think Mike Phillips did the detailing universe a favour when he came up with the term 'LSP' (I think it was him!)... Last Step/Stage Product. It may not be the best descriptor if you use a quick detailer as a final spritz, but everyone knows LSP to mean wax or sealant or whatevertheheckitis.

I'd suggest Last Stage Protectant would perhaps be a better term. Or even Long Standing Protectant, as that will ensure these resilient coatings don't get confused with quick detailing spritzers.


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## supercharged (Feb 1, 2008)

sealant = durability, wax = looks... JS109 doesn't last all that long, I find carnauba waxes that last longer then Jetseal...if you are looking for a durable sealant, look at Zaino sealants (Z-2,Z-3, Z-5), Duragloss 105, 111, Finish Kare 1000p, Collinite 476S, 845.


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## Kokopelli (Sep 18, 2009)

How can we know what is wax, what isn't? While it says wax on the tin and it appears to be a sealant. You apply it on an oily glaze or lets be a bit more up to the regular guy's behaviour and just apply it on the previous layer that you just finished the last bottle of. The ever praised, a high durability, so called "wax" smears badly, lasts only a couple of weeks and you begin to think that you got a dud one. :wall:  

I guess this is why we get mixed results with the same products or better why manufacturers usually add some cleaners to their waxsealants. 

Long talk short, is a product implying its high polymer content should actually be treated like a sealant (trying not to put it on an oily surface, let it cure properly, etc)?


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## Dodo Factory (Apr 11, 2007)

Cleaners are rarely added to waxes and sealants, unless you count 'cleaner waxes' aka AIO all in one products. The solvents in normal waxes and sealants have some degreasing and cleaning power.

All I am saying is that each product needs to be taken as it comes, and only a general behaviour or characteristic can be gleaned at best from conjecture as to what 'type' the product is.

It would be a simple world if all liquid sealants behaves one way, and all paste waxes behaved another. But the reality is far more complex. Some are oily, some buff easily, some can smear, some are great in certain conditions and not in others.

The observations of sealants for durability and waxes for looks aren't necessarily wrong. It's just that most paste sealants contain wax (and many of the liquid waxes contain sealant!) and vice versa. And even if a product is a pure liquid sealant, it may apply completely differently to the next sealant in a bottle.


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