# What polish/wax for finish



## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

Hi Folks,

Firstly may I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

After recently purchasing a new car (3 year old), I have decided upon to have a go at keeping it clean myself. :wall:.

Okay let's begin, on the recommendation of a friend I have purchased an array of AG products, Shampoo, Aqua Wax, Fast Glass, Vinyl and rubber care and a few others (but am willing to swap/sell if you good folk can suggest otherwise)

As a full on :newbie:, I am some what confused to the wax/polishing stage, and would really appreciate some help/advise.

My workout will be as follows:

1. Pre wash with either VP Citrus or VP Neutral Foam.
2. Rinse using PW
3. 2 bucket wash, using AG Shampoo Conditioner.
4. Weather permitting clay bar
5. Now is where I am lost. Is it still possible to use the Aqua Wax if the car has had the Clay Bar? or would I need to use something like AF Tripple AIO?

Also can I finish the wash on any of these or will it need something else.

Just to let you know the car is Pearlescent White in colour, would require a special wax/polish for this or will any do?

Thanking you all in advance.

Saul.


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## focustjohn (Sep 12, 2013)

Yeah you should wax after clay barring , make sure you clean the car once you have clayed. Then polish and wax


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## CleanCar99 (Dec 30, 2011)

3a) Autosmart tardis to remove tar
3b) Fallout remover like autobrite purple rain or iron-x
3c) Pressure wash again
Then proceed to 4) clay :thumb:


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## Melkor (Aug 16, 2012)

After claying you should have a clean surface to start correction or apply a glaze or wax or a sealant. You could also use tar remover and fallout remover such as tardis and iron x before you clay the vehicle, this will give you less to remove with the clay.


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

After you have clayed and then washed again it is time to Polish!! Now if your going to be doing it by hand and your already going down the AG route then i might suggest you get yourself some AG Super Resin polish (SRP). It will shine it up nicely and has very good filling potential, so it will fill some of the swirls/light scratches your car may have, at least until you get yourself a Machine polisher. 

What colour is the car?

In regards to the Aqua wax, I believe it is a great drying aid. and wax/sealant top up. But it is more of a Quick detailer than a LSP. But i cant be 100% sure on this as i have never used it but that is the general feeling i get from the forums. You could opt for getting some AG High Def Wax which seems to get some good reviews. And will be your dedicated LSP rather than just giving you car a coat of QD with a little wax in it. Then once you have applied your wax of choice keep it topped using the Aqua wax  Ive stuck with AG products as it seems you are going down that road already.


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## shaneslatcher93 (Oct 13, 2013)

I've used a decent amount of AG products until moving onto other things. I found AG Aqua wax a good product to use for a drying aid.. But with the Fallout Remover, like it says on the container ' leave it to dwell for 5 - 10mins and then wipe with a MF cloth ' personally i didn't like that idea so don't use it now. 

But they have some other great products.


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

kybert said:


> 3a) Autosmart tardis to remove tar
> 3b) Fallout remover like autobrite purple rain or iron-x
> 3c) Pressure wash again
> Then proceed to 4) clay :thumb:


Looks like I've missed a huge section out of the washing. Are these individually done or together? Do I have to do this on every wash or every few months?


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> After you have clayed and then washed again it is time to Polish!! Now if your going to be doing it by hand and your already going down the AG route then i might suggest you get yourself some AG Super Resin polish (SRP). It will shine it up nicely and has very good filling potential, so it will fill some of the swirls/light scratches your car may have, at least until you get yourself a Machine polisher.
> 
> What colour is the car?
> 
> In regards to the Aqua wax, I believe it is a great drying aid. and wax/sealant top up. But it is more of a Quick detailer than a LSP. But i cant be 100% sure on this as i have never used it but that is the general feeling i get from the forums. You could opt for getting some AG High Def Wax which seems to get some good reviews. And will be your dedicated LSP rather than just giving you car a coat of QD with a little wax in it. Then once you have applied your wax of choice keep it topped using the Aqua wax  Ive stuck with AG products as it seems you are going down that road already.


The colour of the car is Pearlescent White. Can the AG High Def Wax be applied by hand? No DA as yet.

Thanks


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

saul said:


> The colour of the car is Pearlescent White. Can the AG High Def Wax be applied by hand? No DA as yet.
> 
> Thanks


Yeah apply it by hand, you'll need a foam applicator pad. One or two thin coats 24 hrs apart is what i usually do, that will protect your paint for 6 months:thumbup:


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## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

saul said:


> Looks like I've missed a huge section out of the washing. Are these individually done or together? Do I have to do this on every wash or every few months?


No, not every wash, just 1-2 times a year, prior to polishing.
You don't have to clay every wash either. Once it's decontaminated, polished and sealed, just do a pre wash and a 2BM and dry, stand back, take a beer and admire


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

Blackmondie said:


> No, not every wash, just 1-2 times a year, prior to polishing.
> You don't have to clay every wash either. Once it's decontaminated, polished and sealed, just do a pre wash and a 2BM and dry, stand back, take a beer and admire


decontaminated = fall out/iron x, claybar
polished = ag high def wax
sealed = ????

I take it by the 1-2 times a year, before after the wintery months? If so am i better off for the moment just sticking to a pre wash, 2BM wash, and Aqua Wax?


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

saul said:


> Thanking all for their time and advise so far. Looks like I have some shopping to do. Judging by most of the recommendations, should I look at trying to sell some of my AG products? I only bought these products on advise, but am willing to chop and change if needs being.
> 
> Saul.


Why? If you're happy with them keep them. It's up to you though but there's nothing wrong with Autoglym products they're a heavyweight player that have been going for years in the game


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

Ye as dj said ag do some very good products they are just sometimes overlooked for other products. 

Polished = autoglym super resin polish
Sealed = hd wax. 

Waxes and paint sealants ( LSP's ) are used to seal in the work done via polishing which is done with polishes such as super resin polish and ultra deep shine (AG)


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

If you want the best out of it you will want to get a dedicated wax that will last alot longer than the aquawax. AS said aqua wqx is more meant for a quick detailer/drying aid


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

And to get a truly awesome shine polish it first then apply wax


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

That's right^^ prepwork is the key to a quality and long lasting finish:thumb:


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

so from what everyone is saying, new shopping list..

tar remover 
Iron X 
AG SRP
AG HD Wax.
and some weather!:lol:

Can anyone recommend alternative polish and sealant if not AG.

Thanks.


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

There is many many u could go for. Tell me a budget for wax and ill recommend you one.


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

As for polish. Meguiars M205. Meguiars ultimate polish. Or maybe you could go with something like dodo juice lime prime. I use 205 and lime prime alot. I think they are really good products.


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

Honestly though get yourself a DA polisher along with the megs d300 correction compound and M205 finishing polish. Find the guide on here by DaveKG on da polishing. Sit back and admire your car!! You will be suprised how good you will get it via a DA


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> There is many many u could go for. Tell me a budget for wax and ill recommend you one.


No real budget as such, having said that don't want to break the bank either. Say up to £20 decent polish (I do not have a polisher so at present everything will be done by hand) and wax to about £30.

Thanks.


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

Megs 205 and 105 are good polishes and will cater for your needs. As for sealants, as stated there's loads of choices but you could always get some AG EGP which doesn't get a lot of airtime but it's a quality sealant and easy to use. I use Nanolex and various others but they MAY be too technical/fussy for a beginner..However you don't have to use a sealant AND wax, i don't, although some people do..
As also mentioned getting yourself a machine will yield the best results unless you can move your hands at 5000 OPM


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

DJ X-Ray said:


> Megs 205 and 105 are good polishes and will cater for your needs. As for sealants, as stated there's loads of choices but you could always get some AG EGP which doesn't get a lot of airtime but it's a quality sealant and easy to use. I use Nanolex and various others but they MAY be too technical/fussy for a beginner..However you don't have to use a sealant AND wax, i don't, although some people do..
> As also mentioned getting yourself a machine will yield the best results unless you can move your hands at 5000 OPM


Can I use something like AF Tripple after the claying as a final coat?


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

You could do yeah it's an AIO so it'll leave some protection.. Not sure on durability as i've never used it.. Personally i'd whack a coat of HD over it if you can, or Aquawax


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

DJ X-Ray said:


> You could do yeah it's an AIO so it'll leave some protection.. Not sure on durability as i've never used it.. Personally i'd whack a coat of HD over it if you can, or Aquawax


No point in cutting corners.


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

saul said:


> Can I use something like AF Tripple after the claying as a final coat?


Zaino AIO is also a great product as is AF tripple But i would always add a selant/wax over any AIO tbh as i dont find durability as good as a pure LSP. Im a big fan of Dodo Juice Waxes. Purple haze and Light fantastic. Light fantastic Will leave your white car looking slick :thumb:

I would honestly if your getting a dedicated LSP lile Light fantastic or HD wax get a dedicated polish like megs 105 / 205. They do a small bottle which will be more than enough to do your car a few times. 105 for correction and 205 for finish the small bottles cost £10 so you can get both for £20 and some light fantstic for around £30

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/dodo-juice/dodo-juice-light-fantastic/prod_400.html
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/meguiars-105-ultra-cut-compound-8oz/prod_822.html
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/meguiars-205-ultra-finishing-polish-8oz/prod_823.html


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

Pads to use !!!

Waffle weave applicators
http://detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=253538

MF applicators
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessories/wax-polish-applicators/yellow-microfibre-chunky-applicator/prod_1308.html


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

saul said:


> No point in cutting corners.


You won't be.. That's why i'm saying put some HD or Aquawax on top of the Tripple untill you get some proper polishes.. AIO's aren't any good for corrective work.


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

Okay the shopping list as such.

CarPro - TRIX Iron and Tar Remover
Bilt Hamber - Clay Bar _** Soft, Medium, Regular?**_
Megs - 205 Polish and maybe 105. _**How can I tell if the car needs correcting?**_
Dodo Juice - Light Fantastic.

I already have some MF applicators, and towels.

Hopefully this should cover everything.


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## Chris92VAG (Oct 23, 2013)

Correcting means getting rid of swirl marks, so if your car has swirls it mean it needs correcting. But I know some polishs can help hide the swirls by filling them. The only way to get rid fully is by using a DA. Hope this helps


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

saul said:


> Okay the shopping list as such.
> 
> CarPro - TRIX Iron and Tar Remover
> Bilt Hamber - Clay Bar _** Soft, Medium, Regular?**_
> ...


Medium at most! Best thing to do is put your hand in a plastic bag. run your hand across the paint if it feeels really bitty then go for medium if it is fairly flat use soft. You will generally be able to tell just by looking at the paint tbh on a white car!!

As for knowing if you need correction. Go and buy yourself a cheap LED Light from any pound shop and stand about 1 meter away from car. concentrate on light source reflecting in the paint and no doubt you will see scratches appearing round the light source! Thats how you know youll need correction!. Also if you park your car near a street light at night and position yourself to look at the paint where the light is reflecting on it you will see it! But tbh white and silver are the absolute best cars for hiding swirls etc so i would honestly just go for M205 for a nice polish on the paint to bring some shine up and then top with 2 - 3 coats of light fantastic. 2 coats should be fine!!


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

In regards to clay lube....with clay. More is better!! I.E if you think you need more lube then you probably do. you can never have enough !!!! so keep the area extremely lubed else you will end up with marring all over the car!! also if you drop the clay replace it!!!!


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

Polishes and waxes Less is better!!!!


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> In regards to clay lube....with clay. More is better!! I.E if you think you need more lube then you probably do. you can never have enough !!!! so keep the area extremely lubed else you will end up with marring all over the car!! also if you drop the clay replace it!!!!


According to Bilt Hamber their clay just needs plain water, so lube should not be a problem (have read somewhere to add a drop of shampoo into it).


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

I use Bilt Hamber with just water which is what it's designed for. Can't say i've ever had any issues... Other claybars i just used to use a shampoo solution.


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

Ye BH clay is good for that. TBH most clays can be used with either water or a shampoo mix. :thumb: "Lube" as a general i meant something to lube the area being waxed


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> Ye BH clay is good for that. TBH most clays can be used with either water or a shampoo mix. :thumb: "Lube" as a general i meant something to lube the area being waxed


Now you have thrown me, just when I thought I had everything sorted in my head

When and how do I lube when waxing??


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

Basically if you dont have any sort of "Lube" Whether that be an actual dedicated clay lube (which with most clays is not actually needed) Or a mixture of water and car shampoo (Shampoo pref without glossing agents as you will find it leaves it streaky, or just plain water with some clays. Then when you are claying the clay will leave a marring on your paintwork. And you dont want that!!! So make sure you find out what "lub" is required when buying the clay and keep the area your working in extremely lubed up!!!!!


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> Basically if you dont have any sort of "Lube" Whether that be an actual dedicated clay lube (which with most clays is not actually needed) Or a mixture of water and car shampoo (Shampoo pref without glossing agents as you will find it leaves it streaky, or just plain water with some clays. Then when you are claying the clay will leave a marring on your paintwork. And you dont want that!!! So make sure you find out what "lub" is required when buying the clay and keep the area your working in extremely lubed up!!!!!


Okay, I thought you was referring to when I started the wax process .

Will the 30ml jar allow me to wax the car fully? Then can commit to a larger pot if I like it.

Thanks


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

30ml should get you 4 - 5 layers. tbh probably more. If you apply it thinly like it should be!:thumb:


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> 30ml should get you 4 - 5 layers. tbh probably more. If you apply it thinly like it should be!:thumb:


Jaxcass, Thanks a million!!, You have been a great help. Ordered all items needed, just need to hold out for delivery and most important a fully dry weekend!!

Just one more question, do I attempt this immediately? As in all the steps or keep to the wash and Aqua Wax until the weather turns better?

Also saw your garage build pics, that's a lot of gear you have there!!:doublesho
Well done on the build though.:thumb:


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

Thanks! And your welcome!

As for your question. Why wait? The sooner you get a few layers of wax on your car the better!! With winter weather comes alot of severe weather conditions. Along with road salts and grits its all causing damage to your paintwork! So i say get at it


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> Thanks! And your welcome!
> 
> As for your question. Why wait? The sooner you get a few layers of wax on your car the better!! With winter weather comes alot of severe weather conditions. Along with road salts and grits its all causing damage to your paintwork! So i say get at it


Thanks, next clear weekend it is. How long from start to finish should it take?


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

saul said:


> Thanks, next clear weekend it is. How long from start to finish should it take?


A minimum of 4/5 hrs and truthfull answer is as long as it takes :thumb:


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

suspal said:


> A minimum of 4/5 hrs and truthfull answer is as long as it takes :thumb:


Ye very true. Especially if your doing it for first time. Take your time. Remember your doing it for yourself and your own enjoyment. Your not on the clock  once you have done it a few times you will get much quicker.:thumb:


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

suspal said:


> A minimum of 4/5 hrs and truthfull answer is as long as it takes :thumb:


4/5 ain't too bad, thought it was going to be a lot more.


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

Should it be necessary can this be split over the weekend, i.e. wash and clay one day, polish wax the next?

Also if the polish/wax coats and protects the paint/body, will AG Car Glass Polish be okay for the windscreens and glass after claying? Or is there something better I can use? (I have someone at work happy to take the AG off me) I've read great reviews of the Carlack Sealant, and also Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109.


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

I personally use Carpro Ceriglass For glass polishing and GtechniQ G5 for sealing the windows. i dont know anything about the others as i have never used them!! As for splitting it. Depends where the car is kept over night.

Only reason i say this as if you go to polishing the vehicle without washing it first and it has been outside, there is a possibility that you could get some contamination on the car, which if you polish over could result in putting more scratches on your car!! This is why people say you cant do it outside. But with care and attention you can. So just be aware of it if you decide to split. 

Although im pretty certain you will be able to wash/clay/polish and wax in a full day no problem. If you are going to be doing a 2 stage polish i.e Correcting with 105 then refining with 205 you may and i use the term "may" Loosely. Have to wax the following day as it will be your first time doing it. But i would try and do it all in 1 day. If it is kept inside or outside and the weather is decent over night just take a look at the car the next day for contaminates :thumb:


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## graham1970 (Oct 7, 2012)

Is it ok for 2 stage correction(outside)to be done over a couple of day's...washing car before resuming polishing?


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

yes ofc graham. Ive done it many times. Just hope in this lovely country we get 2 days of dry weather


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> I personally use Carpro Ceriglass For glass polishing and GtechniQ G5 for sealing the windows. i dont know anything about the others as i have never used them!! As for splitting it. Depends where the car is kept over night.
> 
> Only reason i say this as if you go to polishing the vehicle without washing it first and it has been outside, there is a possibility that you could get some contamination on the car, which if you polish over could result in putting more scratches on your car!! This is why people say you cant do it outside. But with care and attention you can. So just be aware of it if you decide to split.
> 
> Although im pretty certain you will be able to wash/clay/polish and wax in a full day no problem. If you are going to be doing a 2 stage polish i.e Correcting with 105 then refining with 205 you may and i use the term "may" Loosely. Have to wax the following day as it will be your first time doing it. But i would try and do it all in 1 day. If it is kept inside or outside and the weather is decent over night just take a look at the car the next day for contaminates :thumb:


Think I'll try to hit it in one day. I did not order the Meg 105, thought I'll wait until got the DA and then have some fun. Lastly can the Ceriglass be applied by hand?


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

saul said:


> Think I'll try to hit it in one day. I did not order the Meg 105, thought I'll wait until got the DA and then have some fun. Lastly can the Ceriglass be applied by hand?


Ok fair enough. Tbh you will get a nice deep shine with the 205. and seen as its a white car you would have to really be looking to see the heavier swirls 
I always apply glass polish by hand first. then if needed by machine. But 8/10 times by hand has worked so far!! So yes it can be used by hand =) If your just claying/polishing and waxing then you should be able to do that in less than half a day!:buffer::thumb:


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> Ok fair enough. Tbh you will get a nice deep shine with the 205. and seen as its a white car you would have to really be looking to see the heavier swirls
> I always apply glass polish by hand first. then if needed by machine. But 8/10 times by hand has worked so far!! So yes it can be used by hand =) If your just claying/polishing and waxing then you should be able to do that in less than half a day!:buffer::thumb:


Seems like you have turned into my detailing guru Jaxcass. If you were based in London i'd offer to buy you a pint. .

When all the kit comes in I'll do some before and after pics and post them up, you can mark me out of 10:lol:


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## jaxcass (Oct 7, 2013)

saul said:


> Seems like you have turned into my detailing guru Jaxcass. If you were based in London i'd offer to buy you a pint. .
> 
> When all the kit comes in I'll do some before and after pics and post them up, you can mark me out of 10:lol:


Ah mate i am no where near a detailing guru lol. I have just done alot of research into something which i get a lot of enjoyment out of, And gather info needed to complete my duties at work. I do hope one day to have as much knowledge as some of the guys on here though!! But for now ill stick with Advanced washmitt meister Who specializes in Detailing Funeral Vehicles =D

I am fortunate to have recieved some great support and training since i began venturing into detailing, but also these forums i have found extremely helpful! I have spent so many nights reading guide after guide and thread after thread. And TBH it helped me out so much. So your thanks shoul actualyl be re directed to the people of detailing world and the people who trained me =P But thanks anyways :thumb::thumb:


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## z4alfie (May 11, 2010)

Blackmondie said:


> No, not every wash, just 1-2 times a year, prior to polishing.
> You don't have to clay every wash either. Once it's decontaminated, polished and sealed, just do a pre wash and a 2BM and dry, stand back, take a beer and admire


Lately I've been using the last step without the previous ones


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

saul said:


> Should it be necessary can this be split over the weekend, i.e. wash and clay one day, polish wax the next?
> 
> Also if the polish/wax coats and protects the paint/body, will AG Car Glass Polish be okay for the windscreens and glass after claying? Or is there something better I can use? (I have someone at work happy to take the AG off me) I've read great reviews of the Carlack Sealant, and also Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109.


Yeah the AG glass polish is good i use it all the time


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

DJ X-Ray said:


> Yeah the AG glass polish is good i use it all the time


Thanks for that, Have decided to hang onto mine anyhow. Make my "kit" look that much better.


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## saul (Nov 27, 2013)

jaxcass said:


> Ah mate i am no where near a detailing guru lol. I have just done alot of research into something which i get a lot of enjoyment out of, And gather info needed to complete my duties at work. I do hope one day to have as much knowledge as some of the guys on here though!! But for now ill stick with Advanced washmitt meister Who specializes in Detailing Funeral Vehicles =D
> 
> I am fortunate to have recieved some great support and training since i began venturing into detailing, but also these forums i have found extremely helpful! I have spent so many nights reading guide after guide and thread after thread. And TBH it helped me out so much. So your thanks shoul actualyl be re directed to the people of detailing world and the people who trained me =P But thanks anyways :thumb::thumb:


This is was what makes a Forum, the helpfulness and advise given by people. You are quite right, and a big thank to all others who have stopped by and given their advise.:thumb:


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