# Best way to strip wax



## sy247 (Mar 7, 2011)

I had my car detailed a while ago now and would like to re apply some wax. What is the best way to strip the wax off that is on the car?

Suggestions so far are:

1. Wash with washing up liquid. I don't know if I like the sound of that because of the salts that it contains.

2. Use a 20:1 dillution of APC. The chap that did my car is concerned about using APC even at 20:1 on it because with it being a dark metalic he said that if APC is left on too long it can cause the paint to lighten in colour

I thought about maybe adding some APC to my normal shampoo (Meguirs).

All suggestions appreciated.


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## bazves (Mar 24, 2011)

Couple of the traders on here do a dedicated wax remover, can't recall who, maybe AB?

Strong APC(4:1) will do it as will the fairy liquid, which won't harm the paint at all just strip back the LSP (which is what you want)

Clay and/or a Paint Cleanser will also do the trick


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

http://shop.autobritedirect.co.uk/wax-off---wax-coating-removal-3529-p.asp


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## Bowden769 (Feb 21, 2011)

i alwys thought Autogylm SRP will do it


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## 7MAT (Apr 14, 2006)

Britemax Grime Out works great as a spray wax remover. :thumb:


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## Nath (Jun 20, 2010)

I've always used a strong washing up liquid solution


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## Autoglym (Apr 10, 2008)

Autoglym HD Cleanser was designed with this specific task in mind


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## The Engineer (Jan 21, 2009)

Would Tardis be ok? I've used it in the past in one of my more intensive wash processes and it seems to strip all the protection off.


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## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

The best way to strip wax is to apply a fresh coat of any solvent-heavy spray sealant straight after like most people do.

In your case though.. tardis or a stronger mix of APC will be handy. Or just a good paint cleanser.


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## lemkey (Apr 16, 2010)

have you tried a belt sander?


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

lemkey said:


> have you tried a belt sander?


Still Saw also might do it? :buffer:


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## ronwash (Mar 26, 2011)

Best way to completly remove the wax is to give it a strong wash and after i like to give the car a wash[with a mitt] with farecla detox,and thats it.


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## Duke Wellington (Dec 1, 2009)

Bilt Hamber Sufex HD diluted 1 part with 10 parts warm water from a 1 litre hand spray will be sufficient for a medium size car.

Product used cost less than 30 pence(5 litres product price). Contains zero VOC’s, is biodegradable, non-toxic and pleasant to use. No brainer.


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

I must imagine, using a strong shampoo mix, clay-barring then a paint cleaner should do the job.... three step process, but takes time...

You might not even need to use a paint cleaner, after clay barring, try the panel, and spray some water on it, see if it beads, thats a test if wax is still on the car.

Or let he British weather take control, i'm sure a wax will suffer in this climate...


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## Rodriguez (Apr 5, 2011)

I dind't know I had to take off the wax when it needs to be re-applied.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Rodriguez said:


> I dind't know I had to take off the wax when it needs to be re-applied.


You don't. But many of us like to start fresh for the best looks, plus you aren't sealing in crap stuck to the paint. :thumb:


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## Dan_S (Nov 10, 2011)

I'd suggest 3m wax and grease remover, after a normal wash just wipe down the paint with this product, old wax gone and leaves a clean surface ready for new wax :thumb:


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Dan_S said:


> I'd suggest 3m wax and grease remover, after a normal wash just wipe down the paint with this product, old wax gone and leaves a clean surface ready for new wax :thumb:


What, this stuff? 










It's my choice! :thumb:


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## Dan_S (Nov 10, 2011)

Thats the stuff :thumb:

Does exactly as its name says


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## GTI Guy (Oct 27, 2007)

Can't believe nobody has mentioned Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) as a pre-wax cleanser. I always use 100% IPA after claying / polishing and prior to applying an LSP to ensure a squeaky clean surface for adhesion.

This would be ideal for the OP, as his car was recently detailed and may not need a polishing stage.



Trip tdi said:


> You might not even need to use a paint cleaner, after clay barring, try the panel, and spray some water on it, see if it beads, thats a test if wax is still on the car.


But most people use QD as a clay lubricant, the remnants of this would also need to be removed to ensure proper LSP adhesion :thumb:



Rodriguez said:


> I dind't know I had to take off the wax when it needs to be re-applied.


Yes applying a fresh wax coat over a failing one already on there will cause poor adhesion of the fresh layer and hence poor durability. The wax layer must be a continuous layer over the entire panel, or else it'll start to fail from any weak point i.e. the where it failed to bond properly over the patches of the old wax layer.


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## MAUI (Feb 1, 2008)

Car Pro's Eraser.


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## Dan_S (Nov 10, 2011)

Probably hasn't been mentioned because 100% IPA can damage paintwork, diluted IPA works well for removing polishing oils but not as well at removing a layer of wax.


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## umi000 (Jan 14, 2011)

MAUI said:


> Car Pro's Eraser.


Isn't always guaranteed to remove wax and sealant - read that it works well on polishing oils though.


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## Alzak (Aug 31, 2010)

I will go for Bilt Hamber Surfex 1:10 ratio should shift wax :thumb:


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## robbo51 (May 1, 2007)

Fairy Liquid 
OR
Farecla Detox
OR
Both
Then finish off with some IPA


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

Seen IPA cloud paint too many times. Folk think for reason that it's this safe cleaner and it's ok coz it evaporates quickly or something. Yes it's good diluted for some jobs, but used wrongly it can cause you some big problems.
You should see what it does neat (or even more than 50:50) to un-lacquered paint

I like a strong mix of CG Wash and Gloss, CG Citrus Wash, or Stjarnagloss Tanjerine to strip wax.

Not many traditional LSP's can handle a really deep clean with a strong shampoo mix, a clay and a cleanse.


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## Martin C. (Jul 1, 2011)

I've had trouble with wax residue on my car... I didn't think much and sprayed them with Poorboy's APC at 1-4. I saw the APC "eat" the wax layer!

Now I can re-wax the bootlid!


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## leachy (Sep 20, 2011)

I'd recommend Autobrite Wax-Off. It's a great product and you can feel the wax coming off the paintwork.


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## Eskimo68 (Sep 25, 2011)

Is panel wipe safe to use for stripping wax?


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

Yes. It's perfect.


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

Sorry to ask, why would you want your wax stripped ?, to apply another coat of wax on a bare clean panel so the wax bonds better, just let nature take control, it will strip it for you in time.


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

For a dedicated cleaner on the market which has been tried and tested on here, you can try Farecla detox shampoo, should strip all the wax off plus is a safer decision, the last thing you want to do is place to many chemicals on your paint to strip wax.

Then claybar the whole car, then wash the car again with detox once more, this should leave you a virtually clean panels on the way through.

Hope this helps.


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## Dan_S (Nov 10, 2011)

Trip tdi said:


> Sorry to ask, why would you want your wax stripped ?, *to apply another coat of wax on a bare clean panel so the wax bonds better*, just let nature take control, it will strip it for you in time.


Answered your own question mate :thumb:. With the number of different waxes many enthusiasts have stripping off wax is common practice in order to try something new, I know that's what I do


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

Trip tdi said:


> ...after clay barring, try the panel, and spray some water on it, see if it beads, thats a test if wax is still on the car.


Ermmmm, don't be misled; very clean waxless paint can bead as well or even
far better than any wax!

If the paint is still relatively smooth, i.e. doesn't need claying, then any AIO
product will provide a good basis for a re-wax. So SRP and Optimum PoliSeal 
will do the job brilliantly. The concern I'd have is in trying to get a wax to 
fully cure when outside temps are below 5degC, quite apart from the effects 
of dampness.

Wax curing takes a lot longer than the period twixt application and wipe-off.
In ideal temps of 15degC+ it can take as long as 12 hours or more. At this 
time of year I'd spray something like Optimum Car Wax on to do a top-up 
until the Spring which is the better time to be stripping back. Even then, I'd
wait for a warmer and relatively dry day to do it.

Regards,
Steve


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## grant motox (Dec 30, 2010)

Homebrew of TFR and APC does a good job through the snow foam, then I apply tardis anyway


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