# Help please



## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

Hi everyone,

I recently got a MT320 and chemical guys V36 and V38

I tried doing the boot, with firstly V36 on an orange pad and then V38 on a white pad.

If anything this has cause light scratches or at least made them more noticeable?

I has the machine on a fast speed with a good travel speed and made sure that the pad was always spinning. I thought that MX5 paint was really soft

Could I have caused this small scratches?

And what would you do to get rid of them - cut again?

Thanks for everyones help in advance

Sam.


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## muzzer (Feb 13, 2011)

Hmm,
having never used CG polishes before i had a quick look on their site.

If it was me, i would have started with V38 first on a white pad and seen what the results were. V36 is designed to remove light imperfections granted, but it also able to remove 2000 2500 grade wet sanding marks. That is quite a harsh polish and dependant on how thick your paint is, you may have to either re compound the paint or if it is really thin, then live with the marks.
Have you used a Paint Depth Gauge before you machined the paint?


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## DrEskimo (Jan 7, 2016)

I, and others, have had similar issues with the V-Line, but without knowing the technique, paint, etc. its difficult to know what the problem really is.

A good workman never blames his tools and all that, but it is getting a bit more than coincidental that multiple users have had very similar issues with these polishes....


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

DrEskimo said:


> I, and others, have had similar issues with the V-Line, but without knowing the technique, paint, etc. its difficult to know what the problem really is.
> 
> A good workman never blames his tools and all that, but it is getting a bit more than coincidental that multiple users have had very similar issues with these polishes....


Thanks for your reply.

Technique was moderate travel, light pressure.

What issues have you had with the V-line?

Seems to have removed swirls looking in good detail, however it looks like deeper scratches have remained.



muzzer said:


> Hmm,
> having never used CG polishes before i had a quick look on their site.
> 
> If it was me, i would have started with V38 first on a white pad and seen what the results were. V36 is designed to remove light imperfections granted, but it also able to remove 2000 2500 grade wet sanding marks. That is quite a harsh polish and dependant on how thick your paint is, you may have to either re compound the paint or if it is really thin, then live with the marks.
> Have you used a Paint Depth Gauge before you machined the paint?


Thank you for your reply.

I started with around 105 microns, I seem to have removed around 1, maybe 2 in areas.

It looks like I have removed the swirls but not the deeper marks and now that the swirls have gone, it is making the scratches more noticeable.

What do you think about refining with the V38 with a white and see if a second pass on it makes a difference?


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## muzzer (Feb 13, 2011)

Ahhh right, sorry i thought you meant the swirls were still present. If the other marks are deeper, then you may need to go back to 36 but with a cutting pad to try and remove the deeper marks. You've done it the right way so far, now you need to think about cutting rather than polishing. Again, go slowly and check your progress as per normal method and keep an eye on the amount of top coat you remove.
A lot depends on how deep they are of course.


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

muzzer said:


> Ahhh right, sorry i thought you meant the swirls were still present. If the other marks are deeper, then you may need to go back to 36 but with a cutting pad to try and remove the deeper marks. You've done it the right way so far, now you need to think about cutting rather than polishing. Again, go slowly and check your progress as per normal method and keep an eye on the amount of top coat you remove.
> A lot depends on how deep they are of course.


Thank god you said that, I've been bricking it.

I have the option to work on a car with no value, which is what I am going to do, to get my technique and also learn about the polishes etc.

It does look better, I'm waiting for the sun to come back out and then will take some pics of the bonnet and then what I have done on the boot lid, hopefully you think that it is an improvement  :buffer:


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## muzzer (Feb 13, 2011)

It could be worse, i just used my ptg on my 308GTi and got the following readings off the bonnet.....50...40....and on the edge.......20!!!!

I guess i wont be machining the bonnet anytime soon :doublesho


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

muzzer said:


> It could be worse, i just used my ptg on my 308GTi and got the following readings off the bonnet.....50...40....and on the edge.......20!!!!
> 
> I guess i wont be machining the bonnet anytime soon :doublesho


Oh wow, there can't be a lot left...

Pics as promised now the sun has come out

Bonnet:


Boot after polishing:


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## muzzer (Feb 13, 2011)

The best part is, my car is only 4 months old!!

Yeah looks like you need to use V36 with a cutting pad to remove them but as we talked about earlier, keep checking as you go along to make sure you don't remove too much. As i am sure you are aware, you can take a little bit more off if you have to but go to far and you can't put it back on again :thumb:


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

That's mental, how can it be that low? 

And okay thank you for your help, hopefully it takes them all out


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

muzzer said:


> The best part is, my car is only 4 months old!!
> 
> Yeah looks like you need to use V36 with a cutting pad to remove them but as we talked about earlier, keep checking as you go along to make sure you don't remove too much. As i am sure you are aware, you can take a little bit more off if you have to but go to far and you can't put it back on again :thumb:


What compounds/polishes do you normally use?

I've ready good things about ultimate compound followed by ultimate polish by meguairs

Reading through some posts I'm starting to worry about the chemical guys v line, has anyone else has good experiences with chemical guys v36 and v38


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## WT Taggarit (Jan 4, 2015)

I tried CG v36 and v38, and was not happy. I ended back to M105 and M205 with a microfiber cutting pad. 


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

WT Taggarit said:


> I tried CG v36 and v38, and was not happy. I ended back to M105 and M205 with a microfiber cutting pad.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thank you for your reply, in what way not happy?

Even though I'm a novice, I have done so much research into techniques and even got an opportunities to spend some time on the rupes stand at goodwood and one of there guys helped me with trchniques and the results a saw there were completely different to what I achieved yesterday.

I might order some 205 and try that on a cutting pad and see what results I get


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## muzzer (Feb 13, 2011)

Posts001 said:


> What compounds/polishes do you normally use?
> 
> I've ready good things about ultimate compound followed by ultimate polish by meguairs
> 
> Reading through some posts I'm starting to worry about the chemical guys v line, has anyone else has good experiences with chemical guys v36 and v38


I have megs 105 and 205 and just change the pad to suit my needs.


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

muzzer said:


> I have megs 105 and 205 and just change the pad to suit my needs.


This is what I'm thinking...

Trying 205 on a polishing pad and if no good moving to a cutting pad

Would you need to refine 205 on a cutting pad with a polishing pad after? Or does it leave a good enough finish?


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

I did read something today about the length of time you should shake the compound, I probably did this for around 30 seconds but read that 5 mins is more appropriate otherwise all the compound remains at the bottom of the tube, is this correct?

Also what's everyone's thoughts on either CSL or CQuartz? Are they worth it?


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

Well I think that I figured it out, it did seem to be the shaking of the product, as I tried it and then had a go on a scrap panel that I managed to get hold of and well the result speak for them selfs.

Any other tips to improve would be appreciated :buffer:


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

So I had another crack at my car again, and again it's really not working using v34 on orange and then v38 on white

Tried some scratch X on an orange and that did a much better job.

The thing is I think some of th scratches are too deep and I can feel them, I'm going to try 205 on white to remove swirls 

What's everyone else experiences with chemical guys products


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## chongo (Jun 7, 2014)

Not used them before, but they have had bad reviews on here, if your finger nail catches the scratch then it's to deep to remove by compound, it's looks like v36 is at its limit when removing your defects so a change of polish is needed. Jap paint is known to be soft and is easy to correct with just a polish not compound and a polishing pad, so why 36 is not doing its job, because it boils down to you, your technique. You said that you have figured it out, well you haven't because that panel is not your paint, change your polish and do test spots to see what works for the paint, as for your scrap panel, practice your technique.


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## REVERSiN (Sep 28, 2015)

205 it a refinishing polish not Compound.
Deeper scratches might need sanding if the paint is soft if it's hard then jump to 105 it's better on orange pad.

Havent used the V line from CG but to be honest their 5 polishes range are sold by other brands in 3 even 2 steps so why bother  


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

Thanks for your help guys, the boot is the only place that has these deeper scratches ( looks like the previous owner may have dropped the sponge/mitt).

The rest of the car only has light swirls that's why I was thinking of removing those with the 205 on either orange pad or white: depending on what takes them out.

Might take the car to a body shop and have them wet sand and then re clear the boot as I don't think that they will come out before I run out of clear coat and get strike through.

Although I'm no expert I think my technique is good, I've done slot of practice pannels and managed to remove all the defectives.

Want to get everything as good as possible before adding Miyabi.

Was just wanting to know others experience with the CG v line range


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## REVERSiN (Sep 28, 2015)

Mate you can't reclear a boot it's a full respect only, and clear bonds to it self chemically that's why it's layered before it's dry and fully hardened. 

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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

Ah okay didn't realise that's how it worked &#55357;&#56397;

Gunna speak to CYC on Tuesday and see if he recommends Scholl S17/S40 or 205 and then go from there


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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

Spoke to a couple of different places and one is suggesting menz 2400 followed by 3800 just wanted to get people reviews of the menz range?

Thanks in advance


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## REVERSiN (Sep 28, 2015)

Menzerna polishes are very good and they do the job perfectly just like all brands.
Do what ever suits your wallet after all if it doesn't correct within one or two rounds you give another go until results are satisfying 👍

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## Posts001 (Mar 17, 2009)

Well I ordered Menzerma 400, 2500 & 3800

The difference between that and the chemical guys V line is night and day.

Never needed the 400, the 2500 took out all the light scratches and swirls and then refined with the 3800, the gloss is just amazing.

Do have some deeper scratches in the boot and a couple in the bonnet, but with on 65 microns in places on the bonnet, I decided that I would rather have a couple of marks rather than burn through

I am applying the Miyabi tomorrow after using some Gyeon Prep, any tips for applying Miyabi?


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