# G Techniq C1 vs Aquartz vs Colly 476s



## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Just spotted another like minded thread, good to see people testing straight away.

Basically I got my products through, just now I always turn to colly 476s for my winter wax, it is the longest lasting LSP that I own.

So first up all things created equal.

I wanted the paint perfect so I gave this a going over with a megs polishing pad, some 3m FCP and UF. I purposely left the aquartz area to test its filling abilities.

Of course this leaves behind some oils so out comes the ISO. I was very careful to put any MF's in the wash bucket once used for the polish stage so I don't contaminate the work area.

*Aquartz Twins first *










Ok so what I found was the instructions make this product seem much more complicated than it actually is.

Basically I firstly tried the rotary method, I sprayed some on the panel, put the metabo to setting "1" and then let the weight of the machine do the work. Two small patches got too warm and set prematurely (no jokes :lol.

So I went for tried and tested, got my Sonus MF out. Sprayed the panel and worked the product in, I only did have of the divided sections at a time to ensure I was doing everything properly.

Ok so now the result. Never used a product which actually is this different and actually works. It truly does leave a scratch resistant finish. I have to remove the patch which set with an abrassive polish. :doublesho

The other two now had a lot to live up to. I literally cut back to basic polishes and LSP's because this product is so good.

Before 









After 









*Gtechniq C1. *

Very easy to apply, think of it like a solvent, apply some with the pads and then wipe immediately.

Very nice finish and silky smooth. Great once again very impressed.

I notice a few find C1 difficult to apply, so long as you use the pads provided and a small amount it really is very easy. I am pretty taken aback by people finding it difficult, I managed to let DODO SN sit for too long, so there is hope for us all if I can apply C1.

*Colly 476s. *

Ok we all know this product and to be honest if Aquartz can last as long then thats fine by me. I want a product which masks my wash swirls and gives good protection.

Colly 476s went on and off very easily and again left a very nice finish as it does.














































Again all things equal the car is in the car garage out of the rain as I feel the products would need time to cure to give a fair test.

Left Colly 
Middle C1 
Right Aquartz and Aquartz +

P.S. - I paid for these products they are not gifts so I have no commercial interests.


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

You've posted the same picture 8 times! :lol:


Will be good to hear how you get on. Initial thoughts/predictions? :speechles


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Done! Had to put the tags in manually photobucket was just throwing the same one up again and again. 

I really do think Aquartz is going to kill the market, the product works, its easy to use, it actually works. Oh and did I say it actually works. :lol:


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## Auto Finesse (Jan 10, 2007)

C1 easy to apply and silky smooth ?, its a good product but i dont think thats how id describe it.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Do you find C1 difficult to apply ?


P.S. I would just like to add as well I paid for all of these products none were gifts.


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

james b said:


> C1 easy to apply and silky smooth ?, its a good product but i dont think thats how id describe it.


C1 is a nightmare product to apply! So much pressure not to let it set! :doublesho


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Really ? 

I found this very easy indeed. Just make sure you work on a very cool panel and its really quite easy and a small area at a time. I found auto balm more difficult in all honesty. 

Use a lint free pad to apply and you will find it is a breeze, I found it very easy. Plus I have a flat black so I would immediately spot any discrepancies in the finish. 

I would try the application again, pad in one hand, MF in other. Simples.


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## Auto Finesse (Jan 10, 2007)

C1 coating is not the easiest product to work with but the benefits of this type of product well ought weigh the fact its panel at a time and takes a bit of effort and a change of technique.



amiller said:


> C1 is a nightmare product to apply! So much pressure not to let it set! :doublesho


Id not say its that bad, it dose take a bit of getting used to but thats why its for pro use only, it leaves a grippy feeling surface once buffed off, but the durability is well worth the effort.


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Interesting test here and I will be keeping an eye on this for your results with interest  ... We've been tinkering a lot with Aquartz lately, and are similarly impressed on initial testing (Gordon's posted a thread of his work on it ). Looking forward to this, thanks for posting. :thumb:


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

I've been waiting for this and thanks for posting! :thumb: Nice one John but what happened to the Nanolex? :lol:

I, too, thought that C1 would've been more difficult to apply than you found it (based on it's 'Professional use only' tag) but glad to hear you didn't have any issues.

Look forward to durability updates and I'll get the Nanolex Pro Sealant if you want to replace the Collinite with it. 

Any difference in appearance between them other than the filling properties of the AQuartz?

Alan W


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I would say Aquartz is more glossy than C1 but really nothing between it. 

Alan you know im very impatient I just had to try it!!

I don't know if they have changed the forumla etc. I really don't know why people find this difficult to apply, it's very very simple.


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## sicko (Jun 20, 2009)

what's about aquartz glossines? is it very glossy-shiny or not? how it would compare to colly 476 or any other LSP?


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

C1 is easy to apply and remove, just have to use make up pads and take off quickly
just have to use good technique with wipe off not to leave clouds of residue that will set and cure becoming very unsightly. 
water spotting is a problem on occasion with it too. 

no real gloss improvement with it either. This is where Aquartz stands out along with others with similar technology


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

JJ- You say "The other two now had a lot to live up to. I literally cut back to basic polishes and LSP's because this product is so good."

Does this mean you have been testing this for some time and are super super impressed with its LSP characteristics? Might need to invest! :thumb:


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## gtechrob (Sep 11, 2006)

jj - slightly confused - in the pictures you have a 250ml sprayer bottle on the c1 section. This doesn't look like any of the packaging we sell c1 in.

once you know how to apply c1 it's really a doddle to apply. Fast to apply - no need for heat guns etc. and even though we recommend to not get it wet for at least 4 hours, in reality we have had cars go out in the pouring rain 30mins after application with no adverse reactions.

regarding gloss. IMO (maybe I am biased :lol c1 definately adds some gloss. but we do always say that 99% of the finish comes from good prep work.

but having said that it follows that by adding a 100% optically clear coat of quartz to your car's surface will give you through the lensing effect of an extra layer of crystal clear coat added richness of colour, depth of shine and gloss.


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## NewYaris (Sep 11, 2009)

gtechrob said:


> jj - slightly confused - in the pictures you have a 250ml sprayer bottle on the c1 section. This doesn't look like any of the packaging we sell c1 in.


it might C2


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## gtechrob (Sep 11, 2006)

if that spray bottle is what was put on the surface - then no way it is c1 - possibly c2? although even at light dilutions c2 will have a slight blue appearance.


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

there is some Gtechniq bottles in the one picture on the roof though looks like the window kit ??


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## Auto Finesse (Jan 10, 2007)

A bottle of C1 that size would cost you a few quid LOL, actually about £300


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

I've got 60ml of C1 and I'm still paying that off! :lol:


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

JJ,

Did you establsh if you were using C1 or C2?

Alan W


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## Oakey22 (Feb 12, 2010)

spray bottle looks like cleaner, maybe IPA? you can see the Gtechniq stuff on the roof.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

gtechrob said:


> jj - slightly confused - in the pictures you have a 250ml sprayer bottle on the c1 section. This doesn't look like any of the packaging we sell c1 in.
> 
> once you know how to apply c1 it's really a doddle to apply. Fast to apply - no need for heat guns etc. and even though we recommend to not get it wet for at least 4 hours, in reality we have had cars go out in the pouring rain 30mins after application with no adverse reactions.
> 
> ...


Lol, its Isopropyl Alc, I smashed the bottle after the first coat  Dropped off the beam above the car GUTTED. Just didn't move the bottle.

It was C1, the wee tiny bottle. The gloss difference was slighlty noticeable, but aquartz edged it.


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

JJ_ said:


> Lol, its Isopropyl Alc, I smashed the bottle after the first coat  Dropped off the beam above the car GUTTED. Just didn't move the bottle.
> 
> It was C1, the wee tiny bottle. The gloss difference was slighlty noticeable, but aquartz edged it.


Glad I'm not the only one to drop and spill all the bottle after just one coat! :devil: :lol:

Great test mate. :thumb:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

amiller said:


> JJ- You say "The other two now had a lot to live up to. I literally cut back to basic polishes and LSP's because this product is so good."
> 
> Does this mean you have been testing this for some time and are super super impressed with its LSP characteristics? Might need to invest! :thumb:


I have sold most of my LSP's only got about 10 or so left :lol:, I would just go ahead and get it, you will be impressed nothing else on the market like Aquartz - well that puts itself right in the firiing range.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Infact I have to add something here. 

C1 is obviously just a sealant, Aquartz Twins are covering two bases they are a sealant and covering swirls. 

Just to be clear C1 is a very good product and should probably be tested against 476s or Klasse SG. 

I will do this at a later date, I will be buying more thats for sure, was very impressed by it.


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

JJ_ said:


> It was C1, the wee tiny bottle.


Thanks for clarifying that John. :thumb:

I'll have something else here shortly for you to test. 

Alan W


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

For ease of use I would say c1, If you aren't well versed with aquartz it can end up settin prematurely and you have to polish with an abrasive to remove it. 

I like aquartz because I have a solid black car and I need something to mask any remaining defects, at about 500-800 miles a week believe you me there are a few. 

Two different products just waiting to see how long they both hold up now. I do have enough to coat c1 like I did with aquartz so that everythig is on a level playing field.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Update, the car has been in the Garage for a few days. So, I put some water on the test area just to see what the sheeting and beading is like. 

C1 downright winner, it looks more aesthically pleasing. Only the OCD guys will know what I am talking about here. 

Aquartz was very good just not as nice as C1. Aquartz is great for masking swirls right enough. So difficult !!! 

To give an idea there is a noticeable difference between C1 and Colly 476s, C1 had rounder beads and the water dispersed quicker. 

This is probably the hardest test I have ever conducted.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I am very impressed with the Glass package I have this on the front windscreen and it beads the water so small that visibility is still great, considering the weather we have been having it's great. 

Another thing mentioning is that the Glass Package from Gtechniq certainly helps with bugs etc sticking to the glass and smearing. 

I am going to hopefully on saturday split the car down the middle and have one side C1 and the other Aquartz, instead of just a bonnet test.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)




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## christian900se (Nov 10, 2009)

That conclusively proves the hydrophilic properties of Aquartz, did you end up applying Aquartz+ on top of Aquartz?


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## agpatel (Jun 5, 2009)

Hmm, interesting results in the video dealing with Aquartz.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Got that off ebay, pretty funny.

So lets see how its holding up. Well pretty well to be honest. Colly is still beading and sheeting as is C1.

Aquartz is sheeting but this is normal, this product sheets rather than bead.

Few pics










During the wash stage you couldnt tell, I always find colli repels soap, if you snow foam it.




























This is the Carnuba spray product from Gtechniq. Amazing gloss, just amazing. Applied on the lights and side glass too!!


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

Good to see the video I actually don’t like the look of Aquatz when wet very good for scratch covering and avoidance but when wet C1 all day long for me looking at that video.

I know hydrophilic means coatings or materials become wet very easily, and maintain the wetness for longer than a hydrophobic equivalent would, but not the look for me I’m afraid just looks like a failed lsp coating.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

christian900se said:


> That conclusively proves the hydrophilic properties of Aquartz, did you end up applying Aquartz+ on top of Aquartz?


Aquartz (x) 2 and Aquartz+ (x) 1


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

GoodFella33 said:


> Good to see the video I actually don't like the look of Aquatz when wet very good for scratch covering and avoidance but when wet C1 all day long for me looking at that video.
> 
> I know hydrophilic means coatings or materials become wet very easily, and maintain the wetness for longer than a hydrophobic equivalent would but not the look for me I'm afraid just looks like a failed lsp coating.


The great thing about aquartz is its ability to hide marring, holograms and swirls.

You could top with your favourite wax, I think we are now getting to the realms of non corrective detailing, which in some cases is welcomed.

I have been looking for a product which does this to a satisfactory level and aquartz "fills" this gap nicely.

G1 is an out and out sealant, the nuba spray is worth a look I was amazed.


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

That Aquartz doesnt sheet at all! It just sits there and sheets slower than the slowest sealant I've ever seen.

Am I right in thinking you started off much favouring the Aqaurtz? Has this changed?

I've got a brilliant write up to come showing the flexibility of C1. It is my favourite detailing product ever.


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

The more I look, the more I am confused!

A by-product of an LSP is its sheeting/beading, yet the AQ doesnt show this?

Impressed with the C3?


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

I have C1 G1 etc C1 is an out and out sealant different technology to Collinate that’s polymer technology where as C1 is sol-gel 

but you are right aquatz has proven itself good at many things just when wet I’m not so keen u can see on the vide C1 is left a lot drier and on a roof I would imagine it would just leave the water sitting there though I suppose you would get less water marks. 

I will try Aquartz soon the way the water is left reminds me of blit hamber that does not bead much in my experience. 

I’m sure Aquatz will be great for detailers when people don’t want full correction and with the scratch proof finish will be a popular choice.


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## agpatel (Jun 5, 2009)

C3 has my atention, can it be used over wax's, good durability? Looks like a great spray wax, wax extender to use after washes.

I agree the Aquartz would not be for me as i dont like having water sheet that slow. Rather have it sheet off and have only a few drops less chance of water spots.


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

You need to clean those wheels John! :lol:

Looks like you're having a lot of fun with all those new products just now! 

Keep the updates coming! :thumb:

Alan W


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I actually still really like Aquartz. My reasoning is this, I drive say 800-1000 miles a week so the car sees a lot of road, it also sees a lot of bushes etc. I keep meaning to get a video of part of my drive to and from work 30 odd miles- basically farm hedges and loose gravel at the sides of the road. 

Anyway, I like this because I could probably polish my car, not all of it, but certainly a few panels every few weeks, due to the timber trucks taking up quite a bit of the road and this results in catching the odd hedge. 

I like aquartz because it 

A. Reduces the scratches to begin with 
B. I can also add Aquartz+ to reduce them noticeably, much more than blackhole or any of the filler products. 
C. The filler actually stays in place it doesn't evaporate

Then the flip side is, if I had a perfect show car I like C1 because it beads perfectly, perfect cylindrical balls of water :lol:, seriously though it is what we have always wanted, well what I have always wanted is great beading. 

I know it doesn't mean your paint is protected blah blah, but to me it's more rewarding than applying the latest Zymol by hand, its rewarding. 

C1 looks great, Aquartz works fantastically - plus remember you can top it with colli or even Pinnacle BOS, you don't have to worry about protection because it's there - jeez it took me some 3m polish to remove some of the overspray !!! 

So :lol: in short I like them both, for quite different reasons.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Alan W said:


> You need to clean those wheels John! :lol:
> 
> Looks like you're having a lot of fun with all those new products just now!
> 
> ...


Alan come on you know my rule, I don't do wheels. I am actually thinking of other wheels which are easier to clean :lol:


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

amiller said:


> The more I look, the more I am confused!
> 
> A by-product of an LSP is its sheeting/beading, yet the AQ doesnt show this?
> 
> Impressed with the C3?


hydrophilic means coatings or materials become wet very easily, and maintain the wetness for longer than a hydrophobic equivalent would

thats it basically takes longer to sheet of which is why im not so keen on the look when wet


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

agpatel said:


> C3 has my atention, can it be used over wax's, good durability? Looks like a great spray wax, wax extender to use after washes.
> 
> I agree the Aquartz would not be for me as i dont like having water sheet that slow. Rather have it sheet off and have only a few drops less chance of water spots.


Patel, the C3 is like OCW but more glossy, more vibrant, quite a lot more. No idea on longevity or even beading as I just applied one coat tonight.

It is tucked up in the garage, I like to let everything settle in the garage overnight for about 12 hours to stop pollen etc settling.

Rob might want to chime in here to tell us more about C3, I just bought it on a whim really.


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

C1 has scratch resistant properties too! And you can happily wax over C1 too. Infact, you can use C3 or C2 or even a dilution of C2- the whole range is compatible.

Any chance of a wee swirl filler test JJ? I can happy send other products to help out? :thumb:


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

JJ_ said:


> Alan come on you know my rule, I don't do wheels.


I know only too well, hence my post! 



JJ_ said:


> I am actually thinking of other wheels which are easier to clean :lol:


It's an ED30 - you need the CH style or it'll loose it's unique identity. I didn't like my GP's 18's and the ride was crap but it wasn't a GP without them. 

If you want a hand to remove them, clean and protect them (C1, Aquartz?) I'm up for the challenge! :wave:

Alan W


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

GoodFella33 said:


> I'm sure Aquatz will be great for detailers when people don't want full correction and with the scratch proof finish will be a popular choice.


Bingo, this is exactly why I think every detailer should have this. You literally work it in and wipe it off.

Think AG SRP. It covers swirls succsesfuly and leave a measureable coating behind, to help reduce surface marring.

I think this comes into its own for say AndyC, he had a lovely black pug 205gti but it came to a point where he wouldn't risk the paint any further.

Pop some aquartz on and you have protection and filling capabilities as well as being able to top with your own wax. I have yet to do this as I want to see how it lasts - not sure how I am going to tell right enough :lol:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

amiller said:


> C1 has scratch resistant properties too! And you can happily wax over C1 too. Infact, you can use C3 or C2 or even a dilution of C2- the whole range is compatible.
> 
> Any chance of a wee swirl filler test JJ? I can happy send other products to help out? :thumb:


Ah is it ? I didn't actually know that. Yes I don't mind doing a swirl test, I have one side of the car which isn't as refined yet and I would be happy to try that out.


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

JJ_ said:


> Pop some aquartz on and you have protection and filling capabilities as well as being able to top with your own wax. I have yet to do this as I want to see how it lasts - not sure how I am going to tell right enough :lol:


Hopefully you'll have a long wait! :thumb:

Alan W


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Alan W said:


> I know only too well, hence my post!
> 
> It's an ED30 - you need the CH style or it'll loose it's unique identity. I didn't like my GP's 18's and the ride was crap but it wasn't a GP without them.
> 
> ...


I know very true !

That would be quite the idea Alan, I need to find my locking wheel nut and possibly we could set some time aside to seal them, well wash them also lol!!

I have SV Autobahn, C1 and Aquartz would we try nanolex on a wheel? A sort of slug out on the wheel test ?


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Alan W said:


> Hopefully you'll have a long wait! :thumb:
> 
> Alan W


That is a question, how do I tell when aquartz is no longer protecting the surface ?


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

JJ_ said:


> I know very true !
> 
> That would be quite the idea Alan, I need to find my locking wheel nut and possibly we could set some time aside to seal them, well wash them also lol!!
> 
> I have SV Autobahn, C1 and Aquartz would we try nanolex on a wheel? A sort of slug out on the wheel test ?


Sounds good and the Nanolex is on it's way!  Any day now.

Alan W


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

C3 very versatile product can be used on interior plastics as well. 

Nano structured carnauba spray wax amino functional copolymer-carnauba wax blend.

Coated surfaces are hydrophobic good stain resistance and easy clean properties. 

Can be applied to wet or dry car and in hot or cold conditions also fills micro scratches a little as well.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Really interior plastics ? The big bonus is wet or dry because no matter how careful I am drying a wee drop of water always appears from a badge or under a mirror. 

I will try and do the filling test on Saturday, I have golf about 6 ish so I should get it in before that !


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

wheel test this was started back in january nanolex and C5


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Do you find it much easier to clean. In all honesty I have never waxed my wheels. I just hate cleaning my wheels and exhausts, no idea why. 

The only time I ever done it was when I used to do it professionally.


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

yes, before people ask which one i have found best not much in it but the Nanolex does realise the dirt that bit better if im being honest if you can get your power wash out once a week and give your wheels a quick power wash then they are well worth having then once a month wash with a mitt no wheel cleaner needed


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## neil b (Aug 30, 2006)

JJ_ said:


> That is a question, how do I tell when aquartz is no longer protecting the surface ?


When you start to see more marring and swirls appear on your car as that would be the sign that the hardness of the coating is starting to wear, thats my take on it :thumb:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Hmm that is quite interesting, looks like Alan and I will be getting the wheels of the Ed30.


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

i would just make sure the wheels are spotless first and good ipa wipedown 

you going for nanolex pro or premium version


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

One wheel will be nanolex - Alan is covering that. 

One wheel will be SV autobahn 

One wheel will be aquartz 

And finally one will be c1. 

See which lasts longer.


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

JJ_ said:


> One wheel will be nanolex - Alan is covering that.
> 
> One wheel will be SV autobahn
> 
> ...


can you divide just one wheel up in to 4 parts so that way all being hit with same amount of dirt brake dust makes for more of a fair test 
of course useing fresh towels for each sealant

:thumb:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Yeah I suppose I could.


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## christian900se (Nov 10, 2009)

agpatel said:


> C3 has my atention, can it be used over wax's, good durability? Looks like a great spray wax, wax extender to use after washes.
> 
> I agree the Aquartz would not be for me as i dont like having water sheet that slow. Rather have it sheet off and have only a few drops less chance of water spots.


I am only interested in the scratch and etching resistant properties of the coating itself, my car's solid black paint would be perfect before application. I will be topping the Aquartz with all my regular waxes and QDs so the lack of beading shouldn't be a problem unless I am not able to wax the Aquartz layer.


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Nice update John.

From the test I can see that the aquartz is certainly showing its hydrophilic nature now.

Very slow but complete sheeting as it is dependent on gravity and not the product repelling the water.

Aqaurtz philosophy is that if a product slowly sheets water complexly in a rain shower. Not by volume it will carry away any particles that have settled on the surface. Beading has a habit of leaving water spots of grime, due to evaporation. But the problem happens when it is airborne pollutants that has settled on the surface as these can in some case be very dangerous chemicals and only get stronger with evaporation. Once in solution.

The wheel test sounds good and some other thing to consider. Apply to 2 wheels and divide into quarters as mentioned.

But use standard wheel cleaner on one wheel also. This way members can benefit from both tests.

Long term wheels sealants have their place. But due to the high volume of metal fillings and tar spotting they are also limited and do require claying or a tar remover from time to time. Which in most cases these sealants fail. But not all. :lol:

Christian. If you are looking for the scratch resistance and wish beading. You can apply a wax over the top. But you can also re apply the aquartz+, which should reintroduce the hydrophobic layer once more. But the choice is yours. It will work either way.
Gordon.


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## christian900se (Nov 10, 2009)

caledonia said:


> Christian. If you are looking for the scratch resistance and wish beading. You can apply a wax over the top. But you can also re apply the aquartz+, which should reintroduce the hydrophobic layer once more. But the choice is yours. It will work either way.


Thanks for the information, good thing I ordered Aquartz+ as well then! I know beading defeats one of the advantages in the design of Aquartz in terms of complete sheeting to evenly distribute the environmental contaminants across the paint work. I guess I will pass that bridge when I come to it though.


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

GoodFella33 said:


> i would just make sure the wheels are spotless first and good ipa wipedown.


We will do! :thumb:



GoodFella33 said:


> you going for nanolex pro or premium version


The Professional Paint/Rim Sealant - the top one! 

Alan W


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

It's taken me 2 hours to seal each wheel with C1! I've still got 2 to do as well! I think the other 2 will get done with C2 to save me time!


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

Alan W said:


> We will do! :thumb:
> 
> The Professional Paint/Rim Sealant - the top one!
> 
> Alan W


cool that will be the new version then not tried that on wheels yet be interesting to see :thumb:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

amiller said:


> It's taken me 2 hours to seal each wheel with C1! I've still got 2 to do as well! I think the other 2 will get done with C2 to save me time!


Oooo ! Get some pics up matey


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

JJ_ said:


> Oooo ! Get some pics up matey


Here a few afters with C1 applied. :thumb:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Thanks a ! Let me know how you get on with jetting the dirt off l. Quite interested !


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Ok so tonight must be the strangest day of my life. I have had three people ask what I use on the car. Never happened and then three in one day !!!


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I have put some of my glazes against these new products to see how they compare when filling minor paint defects.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=172904


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

JJ_ said:


> Thanks a ! Let me know how you get on with jetting the dirt off l. Quite interested !


Will do. I did think about splitting and doing Nanolex spray, G-tech spray, Nanolex Pro Sealant, G-tech C1, but then i couldnt be bothered! :lol:

I have done 3 with C1 and one with C2 FYI. :thumb:

P.S. What do you use on your car?! :doublesho:lol: :thumb:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Just now it has lets see. 

C1, Aquartz, Swissvax Onyx, Dodo SN, a rear quarter of varying glazes now :lol:, The nuba spray from Gtechniq and some Vic Concours. Oh and some collinite on the lower sections and Zymol Titanium on the front bumper. 

I should really stop testing things. :lol:


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

JJ_ said:


> Just now it has lets see.
> 
> C1, Aquartz, Swissvax Onyx, Dodo SN, a rear quarter of varying glazes now :lol:, The nuba spray from Gtechniq and some Vic Concours. Oh and some collinite on the lower sections and Zymol Titanium on the front bumper.
> 
> I should really stop testing things. :lol:


You've got the Polo Harlequin of the detailing world! :lol:










I enjoy your tests, much appreciated by me and am sure others who remain silent. :thumb:


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## bigbenstrikes (Sep 9, 2009)

Your wheels are looking cool andrew! I done mine with the C5 and i made a couple boobs applying it.. i did the centre then went round all the spoke and went to go wipe off the centre and it obviously started to sure and was sticky and the fluff off the cotton applicator started to stick to it so tried putting more on and it was just getting worse so left it... silly me!! but its all part of the learning process... lol


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

amiller said:


> You've got the Polo Harlequin of the detailing world! :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That would drive me mad, a different wax for each colour ! At least I could remember what I have where colour code my products lol !

Thanks matey glad it's of use


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## sockster (Jun 7, 2010)

JJ_ said:


> Just now it has lets see.
> 
> C1, Aquartz, Swissvax Onyx, Dodo SN, a rear quarter of varying glazes now :lol:, The nuba spray from Gtechniq and some Vic Concours. Oh and some collinite on the lower sections and Zymol Titanium on the front bumper.
> 
> I should really stop testing things. :lol:


shootouts are great. saves the rest of us time and money so we can dive straight into the best outstanding product:thumb:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I must add just because it works for me doesn't mean it will work all the time. Lots of people like poorboys blackhole but I just don't think it's upto much

no doubt it will revive a finish but it really doesn't fill as well as the hype suggests for me.


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## chrisfr (May 25, 2008)

Thanks for all the effort, it's really interesting!

I love GTechniq products, really great performance. But Aquartz's better scratch resistance is just what I have always dreamed of.  I want perfect beading, though...

Loving total OCD overkills, I wonder about the following: GTechniq's products seem to bond a different way than other sealants. Would C1 be able to bond on an Aquartz layer, combining scratch resistance with some more scratch resistance and perfect beading? Of course, this would have to be topped up by C2...


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## sockster (Jun 7, 2010)

chrisfr said:


> Thanks for all the effort, it's really interesting!
> 
> I love GTechniq products, really great performance. But Aquartz's better scratch resistance is just what I have always dreamed of.  I want perfect beading, though...
> 
> Loving total OCD overkills, I wonder about the following: GTechniq's products seem to bond a different way than other sealants. Would C1 be able to bond on an Aquartz layer, combining scratch resistance with some more scratch resistance and perfect beading? Of course, this would have to be topped up by C2...


+1 
would like to know if these coatings (Aquartz, C1, Nanolex) can be layered over each other


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

Pretty sure C1 can not be layered on anything. The previous formula needed a full wet sand before application!

C2 is inert though, so layer away.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I actually thought about this when I was on the golf course tonight. My mind really should have been on my game. I will give that a go, shouldn't see it as a problem.


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## Oakey22 (Feb 12, 2010)

would Aquartz be able to go on top of C1, that way you get the long lasting protection of C1 and then the filling of Aquartz.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Oakey22 said:


> would Aquartz be able to go on top of C1, that way you get the long lasting protection of C1 and then the filling of Aquartz.


aquartz + is the swirl reducing part so not sure if c1 would bond. If you do c1 the aquartz + you lose out on the aquartz lol !! Hmm tricky


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## avaxis (Jan 4, 2011)

hi mate..just wondering what's the updates on this test? really curious to see how the aquartz, c1 and especially the collinite holds up..

thanks for taking the time to share.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

To be honest it is all but gone now on all sides. It has been a very harsh winter I washed the car today and the water sits on the car's bonnet. No sheeting or beading - that is if we judge that as a form of protection I am a bit out of the circle now.


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## GMToyota (Mar 14, 2010)

So to conclude: After 5 months+2months-of-very-harsh-winter, it's all gone. 

ok and the big question is: Which one are you going to use for your future layer of protection.


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## Magic Detail (Jul 25, 2010)

I was expecting more from the C1, and the Aquartz if I'm honest. I applied AG HD wax which I don't consider to be anywhere near the same league as these LSP's and I washed the car last week - water still beads (and pretty well too), some 5 months after I applied it and my car gets regular washes, aswell as coping with the harsh winter!!!


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

C1 hands down, it looks better than aquartz and is easier to apply IMHO. 

This is with a wash using shampoo plus and foaming the car. I don't use a QD etc on test panels. I dont see a wax giving you 5 months of visible protection as clean paint beads.


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## nick_mcuk (Jan 4, 2008)

JJ_ said:


> I dont see a wax giving you 5 months of visible protection as clean paint beads.


In fairness I had 6-7 months out of 2 coats of Colly 476s on freshly polished paint....the car had weekly washes with AG BWSC...and dried off with a towel...


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Well I suppose it depends on mileage, storage, even how warm the water is! etc. I am a travelling salesman and the car does about 40k a year, country, motorway and suburban roads. Probably in all honesty doesn't get treated as well as most on here. If I can't be bothered washing the alloys they don't get done etc. So it's pretty harsh treatment. 

I think the most I got out of 476s colly was about 3/4 months or so can't quite remember was last winter. 

I feel once the beads are not tight and non uniform it is time to re-wax. I notice now everyone has different opinions on protection so I guess it is just personal opinion.

I will just add in here that if someone else tries the test they may well get longer, DAVE or one of the more experienced pro's might chime in. Where we live is relatively damp so it may adhere in a warmer climate etc etc. I really just do the testing for me and share the results - as sellfish as that sounds :lol:


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## Magic Detail (Jul 25, 2010)

It still beads well. When it rains, I look in the works car park and see standing water on all the rep mobiles etc.. then there's my little ripper with nicely formed beads on the roof, bonnet, doors. Applied 1 coat then a week later another, in mid-August. I will conceed the beading is not tight and compact as it was when it was a week old, but you'd still think it has been done recently. It's by no means starting to fail.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Quite amazing matey, just proves you don't need to spend mega to get a well protected car


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## Magic Detail (Jul 25, 2010)

I know, it came as a nice surprise. Especially as I flung a load of old Autoglym liquid wax/polish (that's what it was called) on my dads car a couple of weeks ago and the beading is already virtually none existant!!

I want to try some of the C1 though, so I was hoping that it might live up to being a premium LSP and last for 12 months or more. I read somewhere it's meant to last for over 2 years?? Don't know how true it is. But looking at your review, it's appeared to wear down in less than 6 months... Not ideal at £50+ for a small amount. Beginning to wonder if I should opt for one of the desireable premium waxes instead - at least I will have more product for my £ and be able to reapply when it starts to fail.


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## gtechrob (Sep 11, 2006)

jsut to add my 2p to this thread. probably the only way that you will notice that c1 is still present after the beading effect has dminished (normally around 6-8months) is how clean the paint is. for example with a c1 finish you will notice how little tar remains lodged in the lower portions of your paintwork.

c2 will restore your surface's beading properties and unlike waxes or many other synthetic products does not add yellowness to your car's finish.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

gtechrob said:


> jsut to add my 2p to this thread. probably the only way that you will notice that c1 is still present after the beading effect has dminished (normally around 6-8months) is how clean the paint is. for example with a c1 finish you will notice how little tar remains lodged in the lower portions of your paintwork.
> 
> c2 will restore your surface's beading properties and unlike waxes or many other synthetic products does not add yellowness to your car's finish.


rob your correct, the tar present on the car is less than I am used to also which is of great importance to me; less flies !!

By the by, I washed the car at the weekend and it didn't bead as tightly, HOWEVER, this morning with the dew there was more beading than the other night.

Not sure how this occurs but I would just state that c1 is still present and not all gone. Maybe I didn't rinse all the soap away properly.


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