# Alternative wax to Collinite 476s - suggestions?



## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Hi folks :wave:

Despite my initial impression and assessment of Collinite 476s, I simply can't get on with it. Some waxes suit different users I suppose.

So, I'm now on the lookout again for something I'll like. 
I'm after a wax in the £20-£25 price range that is _easy to use_, isn't fussy if it's left on the car for too long, and most of all, isn't greasy or smeary. I want something that, once it's been applied (by hand foam applicator), and left to dry/cure, can then be wiped off easily without me chasing smears all around the panel.
I believe that CG's 5050 is regarded as one of the easiest to use?
It will be layered over AG SRP and maintained with Serious Performance Show Detailer by the way.
So, any suggestions?
I'll probably end up selling the 476s as I can't see myself using it anymore and it's only had 2 applications out of it and it still looks full!. In fact I have decided to sell it on.


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## matt (Jun 29, 2006)

The problem you're going to come up against is the durability issue.

50/50 is a very nice wax and a doddle to use but you would need to keep topping it up at least every 4 weeks in the winter. 

Im following the same proceedure as i did last yr which was SRP then EGP then 2x 476s. That lasted me 9 months and after every wash it looked like it was freshly waxed. Incidentally 476 bonds with EGP extremely well as they are both polymer based. :thumb:


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## cheezemonkhai (Jan 29, 2007)

Thought 476 was a wax based product not synthetic?


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

matt said:


> The problem you're going to come up against is the durability issue.
> 
> 50/50 is a very nice wax and a doddle to use but you would need to keep topping it up at least every 4 weeks in the winter.
> 
> Im following the same proceedure as i did last yr which was SRP then EGP then 2x 476s. That lasted me 9 months and after every wash it looked like it was freshly waxed. Incidentally 476 bonds with EGP extremely well as they are both polymer based. :thumb:


Hi mate, yeah, the durability isn't such a concern as the cars it will be used on aren't daily drivers. The 5050 sounds like the favorite at the moment.


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## david g (Dec 14, 2005)

If you use EZ Glaze under the 50/50 that will give a great looking finsih ,durability wise you should get a few months out of it at least :thumb:


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## hotwaxxx (Jul 12, 2007)

Have you thought of using a sealant as opposed to wax?

Chemical Guys jetSeal109 is a durable sealant if applied in two coats - and for an added shine just apply Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze beforehand. The two combined are very durable in my experience.


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Okay, I'll add the CG jetSeal109 to my list of products to investigate further along with the 5050. Thanks :thumb:


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## david g (Dec 14, 2005)

Good Choice :thumb:


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## Andy M (Apr 7, 2006)

Your definitely doing something wrong if you find them problems with Colly.

It is one of the most easiest waxes ever, in fact i once forgot to buff off my lower doors, came back the next day and it STILL buffed straight off.

You need microfibre cloths though for removal, and a terry applicator for application, and keep it damp.


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Andy M said:


> Your definitely doing something wrong if you find them problems with Colly.
> 
> It is one of the most easiest waxes ever, in fact i once forgot to buff off my lower doors, came back the next day and it STILL buffed straight off.
> 
> You need microfibre cloths though for removal, and a terry applicator for application, and keep it damp.


Yes, tried all that, (and I'm not applying too thickly either before someone suggests that). When it's being buffed off, to the naked eye it _does_ look as though it's all been buffed off. But I usually shine my high powered multi LED light on each panel as I'm buffing off and then you can see the smeary tracer marks being left behind the buffing towel. Now some will say this is being a bit 'anal' about it but it's the only way I can simulate whether or not these 'smear' trails will be visible in direct sunlight (the fluorescent lighting in the garage is slighty 'flattering' and can hide stuff like this which is why I do it).

The thing is, once I had a few problems with a product, I tend to want to try something else rather than be battling with it everytime I use it.
So, I'd prefer some suggestions on other products please guys rather than advice on using what I've got - cheers


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

One of the closest products I have found to Collinite 476S is Meguiars #16 Paste Wax, I find this to be a very durable wax also, easy to apply (but you must keep the layers thin), and adds its own little something to the finish. In keeping with the Colly, its superb value for money also. 

Another wax worth considering in the price range with good durability is 3M Show Car Wax.

More expensive boutique waxes from Swissvax and ***** are highly durable, but come with a high price tag for only a very small amount extra. Indeed, I personally find two layers of 476 held out better for me than the two layers of Concours are - I'm sure Concours will hold for the winter months happily, but its loosing its beading and sheeting edge that the 476S kept so well.


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## CleanYourCar (Jan 23, 2006)

Victoria Collectors would be my number one choice for all round looks and durability. It is my absolute favourite wax and the one I use on my own driver.

I had 2 layers on over summer and it was still beading nicely in the 3rd month and that was just on top of the cleaner fluid. After topping up a month a ago at the same I did my wifes car with #476s they are both looking the same in terms of durability.

Over something like the Nano systematic care with the acrylic layer it leaves behind it would be superb.


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## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

I agree both on the #16 but also on the Victoria.

The Vics are surprisingly durable, but #16 is a very durable paste.

Seischumi, I think you have some compatibility problem with the 476 because this behaviour is very strange from the Collinite. In fact Collinite waxes aren't that sensitive to the base layers.

Can you post a pic how thin you apply the wax?

Is it like this?


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## Andy M (Apr 7, 2006)

That pic is perfect, in most cases you wouldnt know you've put any on as its almost invisible in most lights. Nothing like SRP etc which turns to a proper haze


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## matt (Jun 29, 2006)

cheezemonkhai said:


> Thought 476 was a wax based product not synthetic?


476's has polymers added. Most waxes have some sort of bonding agents. Dom from Dodo Juice is the man to ask really :thumb:


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## m0bov (May 2, 2007)

Why not look at the Clearkote range? Also found Megs #3 over SRP/EGP to be very good.


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## RisingPower (Sep 21, 2007)

seischumi said:


> Yes, tried all that, (and I'm not applying too thickly either before someone suggests that). When it's being buffed off, to the naked eye it _does_ look as though it's all been buffed off. But I usually shine my high powered multi LED light on each panel as I'm buffing off and then you can see the smeary tracer marks being left behind the buffing towel. Now some will say this is being a bit 'anal' about it but it's the only way I can simulate whether or not these 'smear' trails will be visible in direct sunlight (the fluorescent lighting in the garage is slighty 'flattering' and can hide stuff like this which is why I do it).
> 
> The thing is, once I had a few problems with a product, I tend to want to try something else rather than be battling with it everytime I use it.
> So, I'd prefer some suggestions on other products please guys rather than advice on using what I've got - cheers


Do you give it a final buff after you remove it with the microfibre? Found occasionally it can be a bit smeary if you don't leave it long enough and you don't fully remove it with a final buff after the first wipe to remove it.

Probably stating the obvious but if it streaks when you run your finger over it, it's not ready to be taken off either.

Jetseal 109 is easier to remove if you leave it on a bit too long, unlike colly. Took quite a bit of effort removing it today after 2 coats of jetseal, one of colly and yes, i did use a bit too much colly in places


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Bence said:


> I agree both on the #16 but also on the Victoria.
> 
> The Vics are surprisingly durable, but #16 is a very durable paste.
> 
> ...


Yes, it pretty much looks like this pic. I've tried leaving it on a bit longer and doing the 'clean finger' wipe test to check if it's ready and that did make it a bit better than trying to remove it straight after each panel application.

I've put the 476s up for sale now though so I can't try any other methods with it. I've got some AG EGP left in the garage that I can layer over the SRP in the meantime until I find something else.


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## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

What was under the SRP?


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## robsonj (Apr 14, 2007)

I just dont understand how you are getting your problems, when i do winter protections for friends and family i usually clay the car, put a layer of srp on the car then collinite , i usually do a panel at at time and end up with a superb result


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Bence said:


> What was under the SRP?


Nothing 'under' the SRP. Normal routine is wash, clay if necessary, SRP then the wax layers, in this case it was the 476s.

But this thread is drifting off topic a bit - I now have the Collinite up for sale, so any tips on using it are now irrelavant as it's effectively not mine anymore. I was wanting some recommendations for another £20-25 wax (or synthetic sealant) that could be layered over the AG SRP as an LSP.
So far, for waxes CGs 5050, Megs #16, and Victoria seem the favorites, and for sealants, CGs jetSeal 109. I'll go and do a search on here for these ones and see what I get.

Cheers guys :thumb:


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## GAZA62 (Jan 23, 2007)

Do you put EGP on over the SRP that gives a good durable base and if you like for now a few layers of EGP will leave a nice finish and protection.

As for wax Vic Concours is superb.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/victoria-wax/cat_60.html

Cllonite 845 is very easy to use easier than 476s reminds me of using SRP as its liquid and you can apply then buff off easy

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=46084.


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## m0bov (May 2, 2007)

GAZA62 said:


> Do you put EGP on over the SRP that gives a good durable base and if you like for now a few layers of EGP will leave a nice finish and protection.
> 
> As for wax Vic Concours is superb.
> 
> ...


I agree with the EGP, very durable but I find its a bit of a hologrammy finish, but on a silver car it would'nt show. Vics over the EGP should add warmth and wetness to the finish. :thumb:


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## GAZA62 (Jan 23, 2007)

m0bov said:


> I agree with the EGP, very durable but I find its a bit of a hologrammy finish, but on a silver car it would'nt show. Vics over the EGP should add warmth and wetness to the finish. :thumb:


 Never noticed the Holograms even when ive used it on darker cars and as for VC adding warmth and wetness your spot on it really gives a lovely soft glow to the paint even on silver


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## jonnie5 (Jul 21, 2007)

I'm not saying that it is but could it be possible for the Collinites to be a bad batch?

Anyway back to the topic. Having read alot on this site. I now love my collinites 476 for the winter but I'm on the look out for a durable wax for the spring/summer. I have found that rather (like you) than my original budget of £25 I would stretch to £35 top and I'd be getting a far more durable wax for the money. Being a novice I dont like the idea of soft waxes so I'm now heading for the Dodo range which are £33 in which you might never get the same durablilty (without spending silly amounts) you are getting very close. The other I would seriously consider would be Victorias this has excelent durablilty and also you can now buy it in small jars (£16)
Other than that I would start looking to either pay alot more to get Collinite durability or use a synthetic sealant. Jetseal, Woolfgang etc


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## 1000lakes (May 12, 2007)

m0bov said:


> I agree with the EGP, very durable but I find its a bit of a hologrammy finish, but on a silver car it would'nt show.


How long you left it to cure? Wipe it off too soon and you get this.


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## m0bov (May 2, 2007)

Possibly, it was about 30mins, I don't use it now, my Dad does on his Platinum CRV, over SRP with Megs 3 as a LSP. EGP is very durable but I find it hard work to buff off. Much prefer my Moose Wax! :thumb:


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

I had issues with putting 476 on my car, in exactly the same way, a couple of weeks ago. Applied so thin on the silver that you couldt see it unless you had the light struke the paint in a particular way, and I got lots of smears etc after buffing.

Persevered and finally got a good finish and it looks good and beads great now, but for a while it was going to go on eBay.....

This was over 5 layers of Ultima sealant, which is very slick and tough, and I did wonder about a bonding issue, but so far it still is doing great after sitting in a huge amount of rain and bad weather since.

I'd try the Vic Collectors if its anything like the Concours - that is the easiest wax I've used yet, and it looked great, so if it's cousin also lasts even better it would probably be awesome ;thumb:


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Bigpikle said:


> I had issues with putting 476 on my car, in exactly the same way, a couple of weeks ago. Applied so thin on the silver that you couldt see it unless you had the light struke the paint in a particular way, and I got lots of smears etc after buffing.
> 
> Persevered and finally got a good finish and it looks good and beads great now, but for a while it was going to go on eBay.....
> 
> ...


Hiya mate :wave: 
Sounds like you had exactly the same problem as me - and mine _is_ on ebay! I'd considered the bonding issue as well, but I think SRP pretty much allows anything on top of it without problems? 
Yeah, the Victoria is on my shortlist, although the tubs are a bit small though


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## 1000lakes (May 12, 2007)

m0bov said:


> Possibly, it was about 30mins, I don't use it now, my Dad does on his Platinum CRV, over SRP with Megs 3 as a LSP. EGP is very durable but I find it hard work to buff off. Much prefer my Moose Wax! :thumb:


Bit cold weather (under +10C) and 30minutes is not enough. 
1-3 hours or even overnight is suggested on Finnish importer website. 
It shouldn't be too hard to buff off, only if it hasn't cured completely or you have applied too much. I left a bonnet overnight with egp and buffed off next day, no problems.


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## PhillipM (Jun 7, 2007)

seischumi said:


> Yeah, the Victoria is on my shortlist, although the tubs are a bit small though


Even the 3oz tub is set to last me at least 50 cars....


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## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

seischumi said:


> ...Yeah, the Victoria is on my shortlist, although the tubs are a bit small though...


Ahem, especially the 12 oz jar, right? 

(Ich will nicht Schumi sein.)


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