# Recommend me a ceramic type sealant



## JonD (Aug 2, 2010)

I have a black car and I'm looking for recommendations of a ceramic type sealant, such as creamshield, 22ple, cquartz etc


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## CleanYourCar (Jan 23, 2006)

From those we only directly sell the Cquartz, but the Carpro UK edition is the best cermic sealant ive tried and we've tested quite a few over the years. It gives visble durability for months and months. It's the most hydrophobic of them I've tried.

Tim


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## Chris79100 (Jan 27, 2011)

Max Protect, better quality than the others.

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## JonD (Aug 2, 2010)

Chris79100 said:


> Max Protect, better quality than the others.
> 
> Envoyé depuis mon GT-I9100P avec Tapatalk


Why do you belive its better than the others ?


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

From a personal point of view you will not be disappointed in either CquartzUK or Max protect. Both offer great value and looks that last. The only difference between the 2 coating is Max protect is a 3 part system. Containing a base layer which creates a physical bond to the paint and then a very durable Hydrophobic top coat. Silk coat is a their maintenance and top up product to protect the coating while it fully cures.
 Cquartz on the other hand it a single hydrophobic coating and reload is their maintenance & top up protection. Both coating take a full 7 days to fully cure. 
So I normally recommend no chemicals and only a rinse off within the first 7 days of application. So you do not mar the coat. But the car can be driven within a few hours of either reload or silk coat being applied without the any issues associated with water damage. If you decide not to apply any of the manufacturers top up product then the car would have to remain dry for between 24 to 48 Hrs, Longer the better. 
HTH Gordon


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## JonD (Aug 2, 2010)

Thanks Gordon, so how do you find max protect in comparison to cquartz finest ?


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

There are physically quite a few similarities between Finest and UNC2. Both use alcohol based solvent. (Fast curing) and both have very good water behaviour. Application and removal are also the same. Coating thickness is roughly the same per layer. Again both can be layered if this is your thing to increase coating thickness. But Finest comes with a manufacturers guarantee and professional application only. Where as Max Protect. Can be guaranteed by the person applying the coat. 

Durability is still in its infancy as I have a number of cars wearing Cquartzuk, max protect, finest and a few other coatings that are currently being monitored. At present they are at the 10 to 12 months stage and nothing much in it really to report. All are performing as expected even after tar removal on some. 

The secret as with these type of coatings in not to pamper then. They do not require gentle cleaning product at you would use with a wax or polymer type product. The cleaner you can keep the upper surface the better the coating will last and protect. Say away from gloss enhancing or wax additive shampoos, as these will gum up the coating and cause dust to bond to the greasy layer. Dependant on the quality of your water supply. Would determine whether I used their maintenance type product as a drying aid. As both silk protect and reload can be applied to a wet car. So you are relevelling the upper surface and adding a sacrificial layer as you dry the car.

Gordon.


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## JonD (Aug 2, 2010)

Great post Gordon, very informative. Thanks


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## Chris79100 (Jan 27, 2011)

On my bike exhaust, max protect is allways here, not cquk...
I have test c1, cquk and max protect c1+c2, for me the best is really max protect, after it's cquk and very last is c1.
I have done this on my 2 bikes with same results.
For top up, only try reload, not as easy as a quick detailer but very good results.
Think I'm gonna try sonax next ;-)

I don't know about cqFinest, it's only for pro cq detailers.


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## fordfan (Feb 4, 2013)

For the UNC V2 how fast does it flash? Any idea if am working in the shade at 35C temperature, and doing half panel at a time with overlap between two panels, will I get around a min or two to complete one half application and remove? 

Is overlapping of two halves a good idea? 

Since I work outside I prefer a faster flashing product as then there is no worries of airborne dust and such 

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## Chris79100 (Jan 27, 2011)

It flash very quick!!
35c is too much I think, will flash too quick to do one panel perhaps.
You'll be better with v1 at that temp.
But better ask in the max protect section ;-)

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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

JonD said:


> Great post Gordon, very informative. Thanks


I will try and free up sometime later today to answer your PM Jon. :thumb:


Chris79100 said:


> On my bike exhaust, max protect is allways here, not cquk...
> I have test c1, cquk and max protect c1+c2, for me the best is really max protect, after it's cquk and very last is c1.
> I have done this on my 2 bikes with same results.
> For top up, only try reload, not as easy as a quick detailer but very good results.
> ...


If you have been impressed with Max protect V1+2 on your exhaust. I would possibly point you in the direction of V3. this is designed for chrome or un finished clear coat items. It is also more heat resistant than others mentioned. 


fordfan said:


> For the UNC V2 how fast does it flash? Any idea if am working in the shade at 35C temperature, and doing half panel at a time with overlap between two panels, will I get around a min or two to complete one half application and remove?
> 
> Is overlapping of two halves a good idea?
> 
> ...


I have not had the fortune in applying UNC2 at 35C. I would recommend wipe on and then straight off and to keep your application area to manageable size. I have done just what you have subjected as in dividing panels up into section, with an overlap and will cause no issues.

The lowest temp I have applied Max protect as was 3.5C and a humidity of 89%. And 20C max in Scotland, Like all LSPs mot just coatings Humidity plays a key in the curing process as well as the temperature. I have seen quite large variations in time when the air is saturated in moisture as it take longer for the carriers to evaporate out.

If you either leave UNC2 or although harder to do. Leave UNC1 coatings on too long and it is grabby or sticky while trying to remove. Apply a further coat of the same product and remove straight off. Just reduce your working area the next time to meet the conditions you are applying it in. 

It is paramount to check your area well for any possible smudges or areas that have not been fully removed. Prior to moving on to your next section. Check at varying angels and directions looking low and across the panels as you buff. Dependant on Conditions if an area has been missed or residue is present. You will be able to remove these deposits. But carrying out the same application as above. 

Gordon


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Alcohol based coatings are no good in 30*c+ temperatures! Trust me! They flash off way too quick! 

I love using regular C.Quartz at these temps. It just works very nicely! Artdeshine 2K coating is great as well, but the top coat (alcohol based wipe version) flashes off a bit quicker than what I would like. Can't wait to try the spray version, that should be a lot easier to work with. :thumb:

I got PolishAngel Cosmic on the way to try out, this one seems very interesting!


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

So what there aren't so much different in these new ceramic coatings? Max Protect, Cq UK almost same? Application little bit different.


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

-Raven- said:


> Alcohol based coatings are no good in 30*c+ temperatures! Trust me! They flash off way too quick!
> 
> I love using regular C.Quartz at these temps. It just works very nicely! Artdeshine 2K coating is great as well, but the top coat (alcohol based wipe version) flashes off a bit quicker than what I would like. Can't wait to try the spray version, that should be a lot easier to work with. :thumb:
> 
> I got PolishAngel Cosmic on the way to try out, this one seems very interesting!


 That makes total sense as to the Cquartz as it is an oil based solvent. So slower curing. But was a mare also in the UK due to the lower temperatures and humidity. Did you try working in a smaller area Matt with the alcohol based ones. Just curious. I know it can be frustrating working on postage stamp sizes areas as it where. I have even seen me dividing up a bonnet into 6. lol.

Also glad to read you have cosmic on the way at last. Took a while and do hope matters are now in hand.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

caledonia said:


> That makes total sense as to the Cquartz as it is an oil based solvent. So slower curing. But was a mare also in the UK due to the lower temperatures and humidity. Did you try working in a smaller area Matt with the alcohol based ones. Just curious. I know it can be frustrating working on postage stamp sizes areas as it where. I have even seen me dividing up a bonnet into 6. lol.
> 
> Also glad to read you have cosmic on the way at last. Took a while and do hope matters are now in hand.


two of us chasing each other, one spreading, one wiping straight away, and its still a pain! That was with both CQUK and the artdeshine top coat wipes. I want to try the artdeshine retail spray, that will be a lot easier to spray and buff straight away. I'll be doing that on Saturday or Sunday in Singapore with Alfred!


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

sm81 said:


> So what there aren't so much different in these new ceramic coatings? Max Protect, Cq UK almost same? Application little bit different.


Just like waxes, there's differences in coatings. That's differences in looks, application/removal, hardness, chemical resistance, beading/sheeting, etc. And just like waxes, higher cost is not better..... Seems the American ones (made in Taiwan) are the most expensive, and are using silica % in place of carnauba % for marketing. Funny thing is ArtDeShine hold the title of highest silica % on the market at the moment with their 9H!


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## JonD (Aug 2, 2010)

-Raven- said:


> Just like waxes, there's differences in coatings. That's differences in looks, application/removal, hardness, chemical resistance, beading/sheeting, etc. And just like waxes, higher cost is not better..... Seems the American ones (made in Taiwan) are the most expensive, and are using silica % in place of carnauba % for marketing. Funny thing is ArtDeShine hold the title of highest silica % on the market at the moment with their 9H!


Personally I find the technical details of the ceramic coatings confusing, I think it would be helpful if there was some sort of table with ratings against looks, application/removal, hardness, chemical resistance, beading/sheeting etc. however I realise that only a professional would be able to do this and it may compromise of of their suppliers


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

JonD said:


> Personally I find the technical details of the ceramic coatings confusing, I think it would be helpful if there was some sort of table with ratings against looks, application/removal, hardness, chemical resistance, beading/sheeting etc. however I realise that only a professional would be able to do this and it may compromise of of their suppliers


Yes, much of it is mumbo jumbo like wax marketing. What you need to do is work out exactly what you want to get out of a coating, then ask the right questions. 

There's a few here like Gordon (caledonia), and Matt (Stangalang) that have used a ton of coatings, I'm sure they'd be happy to steer you in the right direction. :thumb:


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## fordfan (Feb 4, 2013)

Yes coatings flash off way faster than as per labels... Best time to work in hotter climates is early morning or evening as temperature mostly within 25C or so 

I have some experience applying OCv2.0 very thin and doing quarter of bonnet at a time, apply and wipe off immediately and overlap 

As of now ordered the V1 and silk Coat but would have loved to tryout the V1+V2 both... Guess next time 

So can I use the the small round cotton makeup applicators? 

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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

I apologise in advance Matt and yes a bit of a tease m8. Sorry.
But here is Max protect UNC 1 & 2 topped with Polish Angel Cosmic.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Damn that looks sweet!!! :argie: 

I can't wait to play with my PolishAngel!


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## fordfan (Feb 4, 2013)

Super orange! Making me want to own one like that 

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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

-Raven- said:


> Seems the American ones (made in Taiwan) are the most expensive, and are using silica % in place of carnauba % for marketing. Funny thing is ArtDeShine hold the title of highest silica % on the market at the moment with their 9H!


Where do you get that info? CQUK has 60% SiO2 with 99.9% purity.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

sm81 said:


> Where do you get that info? CQUK has 60% SiO2 with 99.9% purity.


research. :thumb:


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## fordfan (Feb 4, 2013)

caledonia said:


> I apologise in advance Matt and yes a bit of a tease m8. Sorry.
> But here is Max protect UNC 1 & 2 topped with Polish Angel Cosmic.


Ummm...Can Cosmic sit on top of another coating? I thought Cosmic was a coating which needed to bond to paint


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## neil b (Aug 30, 2006)

-Raven- said:


> research. :thumb:


Oh god please don't get him going with the 101 questions :lol:


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## JonD (Aug 2, 2010)

Ok in order to narrow my choices I’ll compile the results, if the professionals would like to PM me their opinions rather than post so as not to compromise their supply chain, send me the product name and ;

1. Most glossy finish
2. Most scratch resistant/ hardest finish over the cars actual paint
3. Durability (1 year = a score of 5)
4. Chemical resistance
5. Beading / sheeting ability

Score between 1-10, 1 being the lowest, 10 the highest

I'll post the results, however those that provide data wont be named


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## Nemegog (Jan 27, 2012)

caledonia said:


> I apologise in advance Matt and yes a bit of a tease m8. Sorry.
> But here is Max protect UNC 1 & 2 topped with Polish Angel Cosmic.


As an accredited detailer how do you rate Polishangel Invincible+Cosmic on bare paint?


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Invincible can have quite a punch on the right pad. But finishes down also very well with great gloss. I contains very small particles of finishing powder. But these are grouped together similar to a bunch of grapes. It is designed to cut similar to medium compound on a firm pad. But will finish down in one go. I used on a softer pad. It will still do as before. But without the added pressure of the pad. So a reduction in cut. 

Cosmic we this has become my go to product as sealants are concerned and time allows. I would recommend master sealant if the car has to leave or be used sooner. 3Hrs compared to cosmic being 24Hrs. But cosmic lays down a thicker glossier layer and thus far greater durability. But this is still being monitored and so far we are at 7 months within this lovely Scottish Winter. That has decided to stay for a few more weeks. The car in question is high mileage and lives out doors 24/7.

Gordon.


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

JonD said:


> Ok in order to narrow my choices I'll compile the results, if the professionals would like to PM me their opinions rather than post so as not to compromise their supply chain, send me the product name and ;
> 
> 1. Most glossy finish
> 2. Most scratch resistant/ hardest finish over the cars actual paint
> ...


Jon
I have no problems posting up information regarding manufacturers product. Like every product within detailing each product has plus points as well as negatives.

Form the 2 product you previously mentioned. Max Protect will offer you nor resistance in marring and chemical resistance. But Finest will give you more gloss and looks. 
In short the more silica that a product contains creates a denser more resistant coat. But this also creates an un uniform surface. Which defuses the light and in so a reduction in gloss and reflection. The secret is to get a happy medium as it where. 
When looking at durability again these type of product merely bond to your cars surface like any other product out there. Some contain a thinner coat that does impregnate the upper surface to bond to the pores in the finish. Like a foundation. Where others contain a very good adhesion bond by the chemical contained within the products. This is why the surface must be squeaky clean. Pore deep not just surface clean.

I will be playing around very soon with a coating system that can be applied by DA and this should work on much the same principal. By generating a slight heat with friction, whist working the product into the pores in the surface. Creating this bond. Prior to the top coat being applied.

Hope all this make some sense.
Gordon.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

That last one sounds very interesting Gordon! I'll be waiting to see that one for sure!


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## msv (Mar 26, 2013)

iv been using autoshine titan AS01 find it very easy to work with gives a great finish lasts ages.


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