# Lime prime via DA



## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

Hi guys,

I know this has been asked before in lots of other threads but still not 100% sure what to do.

My girlfriend has a classic mini cooper sportspack (1999).

The plan is to fully wash, clay, clean, then wax the paint work. I'm unsure of the polishing/ cleaning stage. I didn't really want to use menz polish as I'm not too sure what the paint is like. So the plan was to use lime prime instead. I have a das-6 pro and black, and white hex pads. 

What's the best way of using lime prime with the stuff I've got. For example; da speeds, pressure and working the lime prime. 

Thanks in advance 

Sean


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Either pad will be fine. You'll get slightly better cut from the White one. Spread on low speed and work in with a little pressure on speed 3 or 4, then back down when its nearly gone. Works for me anyway :thumb:


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## 888-Dave (Jul 30, 2010)

Lime prime and a DA are a match made in heaven bud, as said you'll be fine with either pad but personally I like to use the green one.

The prime is so easy to use and has a very long working time, paving the way for some very nice results.

If you put 3-4 pea sized drops on the pad for the first set to prime the pad, start at speed 1.5-2 and work in, gradually increase the speed to what you feel in comfartable and controllable.

I usually take the prime all the way to 6 for a little while before slowing down back to 2-3 to finish, where you should be left with nothing more than a slight haze to wipe away with your mf.

Next sets need only 2-3 drops as a little goes a very long way.

Little tip... Relax your shoulders and enjoy it :thumb:


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

Does using a green pad give you an LSP finish or would i have to then use the black pad? 

I have the green as well.


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

OGGYsri said:


> Does using a green pad give you an LSP finish or would i have to then use the black pad?
> 
> I have the green as well.


The cut of Lime Prime is not that aggressive. I think it is rated the same as most finishing polishes. So you should be able to achieve a LSP finish.
I've seen a few people use Lime Prime after a more aggressive polish on this forum.:buffer:


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

So will using lime prime with green or white pad give me a lsp finish?


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## 888-Dave (Jul 30, 2010)

Either will tbh, you'll get a slightly better cut level with the green over the white but both will finish off very well as there really isn't that much between them both. :thumb:


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

Dont assume the cut of the pad/LP -as always, start with your least aggressive combo and work up until you get the results you want.

What if you have say a resprayed panel with soft paint, or some thin lacquer somewhere?...

I've machined my 2000 Cooper using LP by DA, and not only did it give great results, it was really easy to work with. The glossy base it leaves for wax on top is brilliant. Stick some Austintatious on it and keep it as Mini as possible :thumb:

I spread it lightly on 1 for 2 passes, go up to 4 until it starts to disappear, then come back down to 2 until it's gone. A light buff and you're ready for wax.

Some people's methods will vary, but this works for me every time, and on all but hard paints. There are a few variables that can mean there's no hard and fast rule for what works and what doesn't... pad type, speed, pressure, paint hardness...


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## martyp (Oct 24, 2006)

I used LP on a Sonus polishing pad (#2, White) with the PC on my bosses car. 

Spread it out at speed 2, up to 4 for a few passes then 6 with light/moderate pressure, back to 4 for finishing.

What a gloss it left behind, topped it off with a wax (can't recall what it was now) but it left the grey 5 series absolutely dripping wet with one very chuffed owner. :thumb:


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

What wax would sit best on top of the Lime Prime?

The car is single stage red.

I've got:

Supernatural 
Collinite 915
Megs 16
Raceglaze 55

Thanks


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## mighty82 (May 13, 2009)

All the waxes you got there are very good and durable waxes. I think I would choose raceglaze 55 since I feel it's the easiest of the three to apply, and it's very durable too. When it comes to looks, you will never see a difference anyway


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

Just to be all Dodo I'd stick with the Supernatural.


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

Have you used supernatural before Dennis?


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

Only a wee dod I was given as a sample once. Really liked it.
Don't mind 915 at all, it was very good, but just quite fussy application/buffing sometimes.
Don't know about 55 or 16. 55 is loved by the people here who own it so it must be good.
I was really only saying stick with the dodo to keep the same manufacturer. I would think when the dodo man made LP, he used it with his own waxes first to see the results.


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

That is true, I agree with you there. Thanks for the reply about the hinges. Where's the best place to get that oil you mentioned?


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

This is the oil, you can get it in b and q or halfords and and lots of other places.
http://www.3inone.com/products/multi-purpose/
I used LP by DA on a black golf yesterday and it came up a treat. I wasn't going for proper correction at all, just a spruce up, shift light swirls etc, and a nice shine and it worked a treat. Even used need for speed by DA too and that was good. Defo do that again I reckon.


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

How did you apply supernatural when you used it? By hand or applicator? 

The plan then is lime prime via DA, then 2 coats of supernatural I reckon. 

What do you find best for cleaning up the chrome trim? I'm not sure if the bumpers are to far gone to fix though. Was thinking autosol or megs metal polish.


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

It was applicator back then, but if it had been now I'd have done it by bare hands. Much prefer this way.
Try your LP on the chrome trim since you have it out. Brought my SS bumpers up nicely and also works well on the 'plastic chrome', you know that really lightweight stuff?... just use very light pressure!


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

i can't get on with supernatural by applicator.. hand only for me.. much simpler and easier.. although i find i use a tad more..

tried it with a wet applicator.. water, tried it with detailing spray on the applicator. tried the dodo finger applicators for SN.. nothing as good as by hand with that one..


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

Hand it is then especially on all the awkward bits on the Mini. 

I will give Lime Prime a try then.

Also thinking of giving the engine a clean up, but terrified I'll wreck it!! lol

Thanks


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## RichardC (Apr 30, 2006)

SN worked great for me on my Chili Red.


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

So if I apply it by hand, how long do I leave it before buffing off? Do I apply to the whole car first or a few panels at a time?

Thanks


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

something as small as a mini, i'd say do the whole car...

in winter it might even be whole car then wait 10-20 minutes before buffing.

this time of year whole car. then swipe test.. if its ready buff.
if not leave it longer lol


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

OGGYsri said:


> Also thinking of giving the engine a clean up, but terrified I'll wreck it!! lol


You've got an mpi (twin-point) haven't you?

I clean my engine regularly, and obviously soak the whole thing and it's never failed me once. I cover the induction kit and don't spray water into the alternator, I also use only an open-ended hose, but apart from that I just get the apc, surfex and water everywhere and it's all good. After cleaning, run the engine for a few minutes to drive out any moisture you can't dry by hand. Oh, another thing I do is a section at a time... some folk do it all in one go, but I tend to miss bits this way and concentrate on say a quarter, then rinse, then the next quarter, then rinse...


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## OGGYsri (May 12, 2010)

Yes mate its a MPI, t reg. 

God knows whats it's like under the bonnet! Lol


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

You'll be fine man, just don't drown your electrics and don't fire it up your air intake. Have the engine off and cold when you start. Any bit's your concerned about cover them in either cling-film or tin-foil - just remember where you put it before you start the engine again!

It used to freak me right out cleaning my bay, but now I just get tore in and it's fine. If you think about how exposed the engine and it's electrics are when your driving up the road in the pi55ing rain then you realise they were built to take it. Any really sensitive bits are rubber sealed to stop water ingress, so for that reason I don't pressure wash.


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