# Rusty stone chip on door edge



## marky2027 (Dec 27, 2012)

Washed and detailed my new 6 month old Suzuki Swift for the first time yesterday and was horrified to find a stone chip on the door edge that has started to corrode. [URL=http://s943.photobucket.com/user/huddy0502/media/photo.jpg.html]
Apologies for the photo quality but it was mainly to point out where it is. I have read a couple of the stone chip repair guides on DW which are excellent. I have decided to order the touch up paint from paints4u but have a couple of questions. 
I plan on tackling the corrosion with a dab of Kurust first. Since it seems down to the metal do i need a primer or is the base coat supplied classed as a primer? I also have some hammerite grey anti-rust primer I could use if it needs priming. Is it best to mix the paint and lacquer or apply seperately?

Also if this goes well I have read up on wet sanding with 3000 grit and then hand polish with Menzerna intensive polish. What pad is best to use by hand? Is this OK to door on door edges?
Any help would be great and sorry for all the questions at once. My main priority at the moment is to stop it rusting and get it painted.


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## rickylexus250 (Mar 11, 2014)

I personally would try to fill the chip with paint, it is a fill and wait process, then fill and wait, then sand with the rubber pencil method and polish. Make sure you neutralise the rust first. We also have a Suzuki SX4 (not quite the same as the Swift, more like a big sister) but I can't seem to upload a photo successfully.


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

Painting over rust is rubbish, the Kurust will not kill it just cover it for a while. Get some Bilt Hamber deox gel and use cling film and masking tape to attack the area overnight. Then you will need a dab of primer, colour and clear. Halfords sell a chip repair kit which has these in as well as flatting materials.

Forget trying to use a pad or machine on the area, keep the repair small and a bit of targeted elbow grease should sort it.


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## marky2027 (Dec 27, 2012)

rich9 said:


> Painting over rust is rubbish, the Kurust will not kill it just cover it for a while. Get some Bilt Hamber deox gel and use cling film and masking tape to attack the area overnight. Then you will need a dab of primer, colour and clear. Halfords sell a chip repair kit which has these in as well as flatting materials.
> 
> Forget trying to use a pad or machine on the area, keep the repair small and a bit of targeted elbow grease should sort it.


I thought Kurust was a rust converter and OK to use for repairs like this? How does the Bilt Hamber stuff differ? Also the bloke said he was unsure if rust converters acted as primers? He said that for the size of a stone chip I wouldn't need primer and to just apply the base coat. Any thoughts?

What about finishing by hand? Am i right in thinking 3000 grit with soapy water and then polish out by hand?


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

Paint over products like Kurust "convert" the very top surface of rust. The rust is still there and growing, slowly. Deox gel dissolves the rust to clean metal. On a brand new car I wouldn't want to paint over rust.

Depending how good you are at applying the paint you might need to start with P1500. Really you want a block or small file or board with your abrasive on, trying to level a blob with your fingers is likely to result in abrading around the blob.


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## alphaj12 (Feb 17, 2011)

Is there not a corrosion warranty if it is only six months old.

A mate of mine took his Vauxhall back to the dealer for a stone chip on the tailgate and it was done under warranty.


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## craigeh123 (Dec 26, 2011)

Corrosion warranty usually only cover inside to outside rust , they don't cover stuff like damage generally . He may have got lucky and the dealer was quiet and wanted some warranty work


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## marky2027 (Dec 27, 2012)

rich9 said:


> Paint over products like Kurust "convert" the very top surface of rust. The rust is still there and growing, slowly. Deox gel dissolves the rust to clean metal. On a brand new car I wouldn't want to paint over rust.
> 
> Depending how good you are at applying the paint you might need to start with P1500. Really you want a block or small file or board with your abrasive on, trying to level a blob with your fingers is likely to result in abrading around the blob.


So I've looked at the deox gel. The thought of applying it, wrapping it in cling film and then leaving overnight or so fills with dread. Don't think I would sleep that night!! Surely the Kurust transforms the rust chemically to a stable metal? The stone chip is literally half the size of a match head with no bubbling of the surrounding paint. Is the gel not a bit overkill for the size if it or is it really that much better. What about other products that can be over painted in a shorter timescale? I've heard of Jelonite?? I know I keep coming back to Kurust but the Kurust pencil is designed sepecifically for rusty stone chips


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Might be worth giving BH a call. They are very helpful. The deox gel is nothing to fear, it will not damage your paint and does a great job at striping back surface rust. Their Hydrate 80 might be worth searching for as well


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## marky2027 (Dec 27, 2012)

Rich9 you were spot on. Just found this on a Land Rover site. For the sake of an extra tenner and waiting as I'm ordering online I'm going for the bilt hamber deox gel. 

"I do not recommend Kure-rust. There are several rust convertors of that ilk. They contain either tannic acid or gallic acid which convert the rust by a process of chelation. The convertors with a milky appearance contain a latex copolymer. This milky stuff covers the rust to make the conversion more effective. It then sets to form a coating. I have done tests with these convertors and do not recommend them. You will find that they convert the rust very well, turning it blue-black. You will be impressed. However, if you score through the resultant convertor coating with a screw driver blade or other sharp object you will find that rust has only been converted on the surface. Under the converted surface the rust is still there - unconverted. The convertors will generally not last longer than a year before they fail. If you coat the "converted" surface, your coating will only be as good as the convertor co-polymer coating - that is to say - not very good at all! Don't take my word for it - do your own test."


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

No worries mate. Just speaking from my own experience, tried a lot of these kind of products and anything paint over is just rubbish really. A brand new car deserves to be done properly.


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## marky2027 (Dec 27, 2012)

Yeah too right. When I set out yesterday I didn't even realise that a rust converter and a rust remover were different products. Every day's a school day!!


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