# Painting Garage Ceiling - help!



## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

hi guys

so today i decided to start painting the ceiling in my garage

it got wooden beams going across with a flat roof (chip board?)

anyway i bought some dulux one coat today from B&Q and started to paint and boy was it hard work! managed to do 2 beams it took nearly 2L to do!

the ceiling being chip board i found it very hard to paint as its not flat

pics, work in progress, will do the floor after the ceiling















any advice on making it easier? am i using the right paint?

i ended up using a masonry paint brush to paint the ceiling lol

thanks!


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## phazer (Apr 3, 2011)

You need to prime the wood first. Easiest and cheapest would be to buy some contract matt and water it down say 25% or buy the really cheap watery white emulsion from B&Q. Coat or two of that and then use your nice finish paint. 

Some would say use a proper wood primer but for a garage the cost would be prohibitive.


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

phazer said:


> You need to prime the wood first. Easiest and cheapest would be to buy some contract matt and water it down say 25% or buy the really cheap watery white emulsion from B&Q. Coat or two of that and then use your nice finish paint.
> 
> Some would say use a proper wood primer but for a garage the cost would be prohibitive.


ahh, thats where im going wrong, thanks mate

i got some cheap emulsion stuff, il use that as a prime, just slap it on and wait over night?

double the work!


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## Ashtray (Jan 14, 2014)

That's gonna use an awful lot of paint like that I would use a water based primer Put on with a 4" roller followed by a quick coat of white emulsion
Is it possible to board the ceiling? That would be ideal


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

Ashtray said:


> That's gonna use an awful lot of paint like that I would use a water based primer Put on with a 4" roller followed by a quick coat of white emulsion
> Is it possible to board the ceiling? That would be ideal


thanks

will grab a new roller tomorrow me thinks!

if i board it would i need to add insulation aswell?

garage is 27m2, not sure how much the boarding will cost? plater board?


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

It's Sterling board you've got up there.I'd have plasterboarded it tbh mate, but painting that i'd have used a roller and some (Trade)obliterating emulsion...but i'm a chippy not a decorator, my mate rayner's a decorator he'll have some good advice for you:thumb:


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

DJ X-Ray said:


> It's Sterling board you've got up there.I'd have plasterboarded it tbh mate, but painting that i'd have used a roller and some (Trade)obliterating emulsion...but i'm a chippy not a decorator, my mate rayner's a decorator he'll have some good advice for you:thumb:


thanks mate! is the sterling board ok to paint? not going to ruin it am i?

on top is a flat roof with felt etc

need to have a rethink now lol, boarding it sounds so much easier.

would you recommend any insulation in the cavity?


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## Ashtray (Jan 14, 2014)

bigup said:


> thanks
> 
> will grab a new roller tomorrow me thinks!
> 
> ...


B and Q are knocking out 8x4 sheets of plaster board for 
5 quid a pop at the mo there 2.8sqm so 12 sheets including for some waste and 10quid for some dry wall screws 
You could insulate for a warmer room but not essential 
I would imagine you will save a fair bit on paint though


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

Ashtray said:


> B and Q are knocking out 8x4 sheets of plaster board for
> 5 quid a pop at the mo there 2.8sqm so 12 sheets including for some waste and 10quid for some dry wall screws
> You could insulate for a warmer room but not essential
> I would imagine you will save a fair bit on paint though


thanks mate

these ones: http://www.diy.com/nav/build/buildi...proc-WallBoard-L-240cm-W-120-D-1-25cm-9273205

i take it i would need to join the edges of each board before painting so it looks flush against each other?

and could i use teh gloss paint i have just bought? (i have another unopened can), its gloss for wood and metal interior and exterior

if not what paint would i need?


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

bigup said:


> thanks mate
> 
> these ones: http://www.diy.com/nav/build/buildi...proc-WallBoard-L-240cm-W-120-D-1-25cm-9273205
> 
> ...


Stagger the boards when you do the ceiling, then fill the joints and screw holes. It should be skimmed really, but you could get away with toshing it out.
I'd use trade emulsion not gloss, it's up to you though


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## trv8 (Dec 30, 2007)

As DJ says above ^^^plasterboard the ceiling and paint (not gloss), will look much better :thumb:.

You know what will happen in a few months down the road if you don't board it out......that little voice in your head will be saying..... 

'Wish I boarded and painted it now' :wall: :wave:.


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## adamb87 (Jan 13, 2012)

i have a similar set up and i will be insulating and boarding it out i think. then hopefully recess some nice led spot lights


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## voodoocars (Oct 20, 2012)

I'm a plasterer. Board it out and skim it. Paint it the week after with cheapo bq emulsion Matt. Easy peasy. As it's a garage just boarding it would make a big difference anyway. Far easier than fancying around painting all the wood...


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

thanks guys,

my only concern right now is the garage opener and the lighting and wiring

i do not want to seal the garage opener mounts in the cavity above the board incase it ever fails and have to replace it

also the lights will have to come down too i take it then refit on plasterboard?

ahh i wish i never started the ceiling! hehe

at the moment, im leaning towards primer paint, then paint with rollers!


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

Lol, cheers Deej,

Bigup, If you're going to paint as is then there's no need to buy any more paint for your first coat. Thin your paint but not like water as people have suggested as you'll not get any coverage and end up with 3 coats, basically the idea is to ease it to make it nice abd easy to use. Brush n roll on your first coat, keep it thinned and do your 2nd coat and jobs a goodun, no need for anything fancy mate.

Those one coat paints are just a gimmick, nothing more. It's the same paint as you would get in the same can without the 'one coat' bit but they are thinned slightly for ease of use. It'll barely effect the covering of the paint if you thin it but make it a hell of a lot easier to use. Don't over do it with the water as you'll get it flicking everywhere. A good standard is the retail paints you het in b&q etc, they are ready to use and that's the sort of consistency your looking for. There's no need for putting a full thickness coat on, all you're doing is making hard work for yourself and making it harder to get a good finish on it :thumb: 

If you want to board it you can always cut a sort of hatch over where the mechanical bits are, screw it and leave the screw holes un filled on that bit so you've got access if needed.

For what it's worth I'd also board and skim it if it were my garage, but then I'd insulate it and do the same to the walls


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

thanks mate

im going to return one of the dulex one coat tins and get some of the b&Q gloss stuff for wood

so i would thin this a little with water, paint on and let is dry, then paint again with undiluted gloss?


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

bigup said:


> thanks mate
> 
> im going to return one of the dulex one coat tins and get some of the b&Q gloss stuff for wood
> 
> so i would thin this a little with water, paint on and let is dry, then paint again with undiluted gloss?


Lol, glossed ceiling, never had the balls to do that but always wanted to!

If you want it to look awesome I'd emulsion it first as above, rub it down then thin the gloss just slightly and coat it on up. The flatter the finish I'd before you gloss, the shinier it'll be when done. Gloss on gloss is grey area, it can be done but gloss is so slick that the top coat doesn't tend to stick very well. Water based gloss is the way I'd go, stays white, no smell, won't run like oil etc and being on a ceiling you won't get any of the drawbacks of water based :thumb:

BTW be prepared for every imperfection to show up like a sore thumb if you gloss it, that sterling board might look awful once glossed! Just make sure that's 100% what you want because all the ridges etc in sterling will pop out at you.


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

thanks mate! i understand now!

emulsion water down for 1st coat then water based gloss 

where should i buy it from on the high street? B&Q dont seem to sell the water gloss in big sizes

there this: http://wickes.live.venda.com/quick-dry-gloss-paint-white-25l/invt/214217


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

No idea if the wickes stuff is any good mate, I'd imagine it's made by either Johnstons or ICI like all the 'own brand' stuff is, it's usually a lot thinner than their trade brands (ICI is Dulux). If you can find a local decorating supplies you'll be far better off sticking to the big brands - Dulux, Johnstone's or Crown. Of the 3 Johnstone's water based 'AQUA' gloss is the best but you won't go wrong with Dulux or crown either mate. All have store locator things on their sites so you might find one local. 

DIY places are usually dear for branded paints ime


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

right, did 7 out of the 14 wooden beams this evening with water downed emulsion, went on well

next is water based gloss! 

will post pics when done, i hope it turns out ok!


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## trv8 (Dec 30, 2007)

rayner said:


> be prepared for every imperfection to show up like a sore thumb if you gloss it, that sterling board might look awful once glossed! Just make sure that's 100% what you want because all the ridges etc in sterling will pop out at you.


^^^^ :thumb:.

I'd stick with another coat (or two) of emulsion and leave it at that.

Gloss will look terrible on anything but a smooth surface.....unless that's the effect you want.


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## shl-kelso (Dec 27, 2012)

I'm with TRV8, stick to emulsion. The first coat will always be difficult on such an absorbent surface, but after that it covers much more easily. Gloss would not be any easier to apply and will show the texture of the OSB whereas emulsion will tend to mask the texture and make the surface appear flatter.

There are no shortcuts that will save time when working between the joists, but when it's finished it will look much improved and help make the space seem brighter


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

thanks, so you reckon full undiluted coating of emulsion on the sterling and joists?

it doesn't have to be perfect, after all its a garage where the car will be parked,there is no access to it from the house apart from the garage door

i just thought painting the ceiling will give it more light

then the garage door is open (up and over) it hides about 6 joists anyway lol


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## Ashtray (Jan 14, 2014)

I would just emulsion it if your not going to board it mate


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## shl-kelso (Dec 27, 2012)

The white paint will make the garage feel much lighter, I was surprised at the difference when I got the dark grey blockwork walls painted with emulsion in my own garage.


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## Bero (Mar 9, 2008)

I would board it....but not plaster board, skimming is ether LONG or EXPENSIVE, and it's not your living room wall.

I would: -


take down electrical fittings
fill the joist gaps with insulation
screw up cheap ply/mdf/whatever board
emulsion everything
reattached electrics

(for me) it would be the perfect ballance of looks, improved insulation, cost, time and ease to do.


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## h13ulk (Oct 31, 2008)

Hire a sprayer and have it done in 30 mins, that's what our painters do in work, a proper 110v one


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

h13ulk said:


> Hire a sprayer and have it done in 30 mins, that's what our painters do in work, a proper 110v one


Wouldn't advise that for someone who has no experience of spraying. 
I've seen many a mess caused!
Plus the cost of hiring one and by the time he's gone and got it and set it up he could do it by hand.

We only spray if it's worth getting the machine out and that's generally only full houses, flats, blocks of flats etc


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

Thanks guys. Appreciate your help so far 

I've got my nephews help for the day today. 

Current stage is half the ceiling had now been primed with water downed emulsion.

Onto 2nd coat today (last I hope!)

I'm just wondering if I should just emulsion it now instead of gloss. Would be damn right cheaper lol 

May do a test section and see how it looks. What you reckon raynor?


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

bigup said:


> Thanks guys. Appreciate your help so far
> 
> I've got my nephews help for the day today.
> 
> ...


I'd emulsion it mate but it's your garage. I can guarantee that it'll show EVERYTHING once glossed and that includes things you can't see atm.

Might as well do a test area but saying that, once opened you wouldn't be able to take the gloss back lol.


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

Emulsion it is !

Glad to have the advice from the experts. Thanks again mate 

There won't be any draw backs in terms if durability of emulsion? I don't want it to start sweating over the car in a few months time ? Lol. Had to be asked!


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

bigup said:


> Emulsion it is !
> 
> Glad to have the advice from the experts. Thanks again mate
> 
> There won't be any draw backs in terms if durability of emulsion? I don't want it to start sweating over the car in a few months time ? Lol. Had to be asked!


No drawbacks unless you start hitting it then gloss will stand up better lol.

Won't sweat either but have you currently got problems with condensation on the ceiling?


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

Ahh nope. No Condensation issues mate. It's dry up there.


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## trv8 (Dec 30, 2007)

rayner said:


> Wouldn't advise that for someone who has no experience of spraying.
> I've seen many a mess caused!


:thumb:


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

bigup said:


> Ahh nope. No Condensation issues mate. It's dry up there.


Then you'll be fine chap


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## bigup (Jun 4, 2009)

Lunch time break. All going OK. Emulsion going on ok. Not as bright as the first gloss joist i did but it still looks good. Doing other side of the garage now. 2 coats Emulsion, see how it goes! 

The 4" rollers are a god send for the edges! Save some using paint brush!


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