# Any good wheel cleaners that can be used on car body work to remove fallout aswell?



## Eden95 (Feb 26, 2015)

Currently after a wheel cleaner that can be used on both wheels and body work to remove fallout, be even better if its dilutable 


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## Paul7189 (Nov 11, 2015)

Bilt hamber auto wheel. It's basically korrosol and surfex mixed together and its the same price for 1litre as most fallout removers are for 500ml. Best thing about it though is it doesn't smell like death like most fallout removers.


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## DrEskimo (Jan 7, 2016)

I've used all of them on both. Iron X, Dragon's Breath, Korrosol...

Probably only exception is something like BH AutoWheel. I understand that it's basically the same, but also includes a degreaser, which you probably don't want to spray all over the paintwork...(although I doubt it would do much harm...).

Don't know of any fallout removers that you can dilute?


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## Kimo (Jun 7, 2013)

Korrosol ftw


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## great gonzo (Nov 4, 2010)

Dodo's Ferrous Dueller is for both, not cheap but it's very good. 
Works out more cost effective to buy 5 litres 

Gonz.


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## Juke_Fan (Jul 12, 2014)

Red 7, about £30 for 5 ltrs.


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## Kimo (Jun 7, 2013)

I forgot, car Chem revolt

Comes up very cheap at times


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## turbosnoop (Apr 14, 2015)

great gonzo said:


> Dodo's Ferrous Dueller is for both, not cheap but it's very good.
> Works out more cost effective to buy 5 litres
> 
> Gonz.


I've recently used this on both wheels and body work. Its good stuff


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

High Definition Detail Ferric Ferrous. Smells great for a fallout remover and being a thick gel it is dilutable up to 1:1 with water without any drop in performance and still clings well at 1:1. 

That's 10L of fall out remover/wheel cleaner for £35. Personally the best fallout remover I have came across. Been meaning to do a review of it for a while now.


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

All fallout removers are wheel cleaners, not all wheel cleaners are fallout removers.

Then some, like Bilt Hamber AutoWheel is a fallout remover (aka Korrosol) but with added degreasers (aka Surfex) specifically aimed at wheels. There is no reason you can't use this on the rest of the car BUT the degreasers will be more harsh on any LSP finish you have.


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## Puntoboy (Jun 30, 2007)

Dooka BLEED can be used for both body and wheels. I used it last week and I'm very impressed.

http://dooka.co.uk/dooka-bleed-fallout-remover


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## Demetrios72 (Jun 27, 2011)

Car Chem Revolt :thumb:


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## derbigofast (Dec 6, 2011)

Juke_Fan said:


> Red 7, about £30 for 5 ltrs.


+1 love the stuff


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

Brian1612 said:


> High Definition Detail Ferric Ferrous. Smells great for a fallout remover and being a thick gel it is dilutable up to 1:1 with water without any drop in performance and still clings well at 1:1.


Just to say, whilst it may still do well enough at 50% strength, to say it can be diluted without any drop in performance isn't accurate - all chemical reactions are dependent on the concentration of the reagents - particularly when you have one dissolved in water, and one is a number of small sites with low surface area (ie exactly the scenario we're talking about when removing fallout from paint).

"But it's bleeding" you might say, "so it must be working".

Well, the purple colour generated is very intense as you'll have seen - this means though that when you see it "bleeding" you know it's working, but beyond a certain level of redness, it's not a reliable indicator or how well or how fast.

If you think about what fallout is, it's a tiny piece of iron that was hot, and whilst in that state, melted itself into the clearcoat. You can imagine it will vary between what's thrown off the wheels of a Porsche GT3 on a B-road blast, what lands on a car transported across Europe on a train, what ends up on your Gran's shopping car on the way to Tesco. The iron particles from the Porsche will likely be more numerous, larger and hotter than the shopping car, for instance.

The part of the iron that is below the surface of the paint in inaccessible to the fallout remover until at least part of what's sticking out has been dissolved away, allowing the chemical to get into the tiny crater where the iron particle stuck in. Reduce the concentration too much and the particle won't be "released" from its crater before the fallout remover rolls off the panel or dries out. When you wash the panel down you will rinse away the red colour but some particles may remain embedded that might have been removed with a higher concentration.

Now none of this is to say that you might not get acceptable results from a diluted solution, it will depend on the kind of fallout being treated.

Key thing to bear in mind is that *there is no such thing as a free lunch - if you dilute any given fallout remover, you make it less effective, all other things being equal*, such that it might still "bleed" but leave a proportion of particles stuck that a higher concentration might have removed.

(If you finish by claying the paint, you may well get out the bits that the fallout remover missed, but they will then be stuck in the clay and potentially marring the paint, somewhat defeating the object of using the fallout remover in the first place!)


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

steelghost said:


> Just to say, whilst it may still do well enough at 50% strength, to say it can be diluted without any drop in performance isn't accurate - all chemical reactions are dependent on the concentration of the reagents - particularly when you have one dissolved in water, and one is a number of small sites with low surface area (ie exactly the scenario we're talking about when removing fallout from paint).
> 
> "But it's bleeding" you might say, "so it must be working".
> 
> ...


Can only go with the tests I have done. Have used both at full strength and 1:1 with reaction. Followed with Korrosol and got very little to no reaction. Wheels weren't very bad in the first place though so that could be a big factor. Due to it's thick nature even at 1:1 it clings as just as well any neat fall out remover I have tried, it's an impressive product and would urge you to try it but thanks for the great reply and explanation :thumb:


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

Brian1612 said:


> Can only go with the tests I have done. Have used both at full strength and 1:1 with reaction. Followed with Korrosol and got very little to no reaction. Wheels weren't very bad in the first place though so that could be a big factor. Due to it's thick nature even at 1:1 it clings as just as well any neat fall out remover I have tried, it's an impressive product and would urge you to try it but thanks for the great reply and explanation :thumb:


Interesting you found no difference when diluting, it suggests that at full strength it's _more _concentrated than it needs to be, and hence even at half strength it's still sufficient for the jobs you were putting it to.

It's likely that there would be jobs where full strength would be beneficial but at 50% you always have the option of two hits in such circumstances.

Will definitely look at it once I've got through the litre of Korrosol I've just bought. I daresay I might get through that a bit quicker than the Iron Out it's replacing, since my brother has just bought a 2005 BMW 550i :doublesho I have of course offered him my assistance in tidying it up - it's by no means bad but living outside in South London for five years has taken its toll, and given the size of the discs I should think the paint will be full of fallout!


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

steelghost said:


> Interesting you found no difference when diluting, it suggests that at full strength it's _more _concentrated than it needs to be, and hence even at half strength it's still sufficient for the jobs you were putting it to.
> 
> It's likely that there would be jobs where full strength would be beneficial but at 50% you always have the option of two hits in such circumstances.
> 
> Will definitely look at it once I've got through the litre of Korrosol I've just bought. I daresay I might get through that a bit quicker than the Iron Out it's replacing, since my brother has just bought a 2005 BMW 550i :doublesho I have of course offered him my assistance in tidying it up - it's by no means bad but living outside in South London for five years has taken its toll, and given the size of the discs I should think the paint will be full of fallout!


Off the top of my head I think HDD suggest neat for wheels and 1:1 for body panels. I tried it with different dilutions etc and couldn't see a difference in performance neat or diluted on my wheels. Of course my wheels do have very little fallout on them as they are well maintained and waxed every 2 months. It is a very interesting product as I was told if a Fallout remover smells gentle it can't possibly be very effective.

Again this is the best scented fallout remover I have came across, slight hint of the sulfuric scent but mainly pear scented (I think).

I have a review to be written up on it when I find the time, already have all my photo's saved from a previous use. It is way down a long list though as I have a lot of products to be reviewed at the moment.

I was a huge fan of Korrosol and I still am, it's a great product but when I tried out the Ferrous Ferric I converted to that due to the price and performance, best fall out remover I have come across yet. I have only tested 2 or 3 others mind so could be another out there again better than this I just haven't tried yet.

Yikes. Get some photo's of his purple BMW up when you get around to sorting it out!


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