# Low life scums!



## H-M3 (Jul 13, 2006)

Some worthless piece of turd keyed my black Audi both doors and my neighbors rear Mazda door! my bloody insurance is due end of the month so was hoping not to make claim this term as my excess is £500. Some of the scratches catches the nail and the others slightly. Can anyone shed some light on wet sanding. What grade and brand of paper and would I need to compound after? What pads and polish would you recommend, or shall I just try polish or a compound rather? Thanks guys.:wall:


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## v_r_s (Nov 4, 2018)

Gutted for you.

It'd be cheaper for a professional repair than insurance.

Also without sounding Darcy all your answers are on YouTube.. loads of vids for polishing.

If it's gone down through the paint your going to need to wet sand, then touch up paint, wet Sand that to blend then polish up. This will be far from a 100% fix but depending on your skills and paint ect career better than what you currently have.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Get a security camera up. You can stick one up for less than 60 quid these days if you can fit it yourself. No guarantee you'll catch their faces on it but it's better than nothing and it might just discourage them.


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Don't bother with insurance claim, the rise in premiums plus your excess will be close to the cost of a good repair.


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## polt (Oct 18, 2011)

If your going to attempt it yourself then get chipex kit. I found this video to be the most informative.






Hope it helps. Hate these wee bawbags that don't understand what they are doing until they actually own a car and it happens to them then they will understand cost involved.


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## DLGWRX02 (Apr 6, 2010)

Depending on the paint type is it worth looking into a smart repair?


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## Guest (Mar 10, 2020)

Sorry for your troubles! That is a gut wrenching things to come out and see done to your car. Scumbags!

Wet sanding is easy, but go into it armed with as much knowledge as you can. Firstly does the scratch go though the clear coat into the base, or though to primer/metal? Post pics and we can help determine if you like. The depth will determine the best course of action. Don't sand if it it is too deep, you'll be taking far too much clear off, and if this is the case, a spot (SMART) repair may well be possible and not cost too much to fill and blend in some paint.

If you feel the scratches are light enough that they can be sanded out, get yourself some quality paper from a body shop supply. You cannot go wrong with Norton IMO. Get 2000, 2500 and 3000 grits. You will also need a polisher, ideally a rotary with a 2 and/or 3" backing plate, a couple of microfibre pads (others may recommend foam, but MF does a great job without the guess work). You will also need some sort of compounds but don't get too hung up on the brand, the pad does nmost of the work. I've found Scholl S20 takes out 3000 grit scratches no other and finishes down very well on medium hardness paints so it's great for a first timer. If your paint is particularly soft, or you wish to do. 2 stage get some soft foam finish pads as well. In a bind, without a polisher and by hand I really like Farecla G20 Scratch remover/compound, but really save yourself the time and get a cheap polisher like a shine mate.

Soak your paper in warm water with a bit of dish soap and pick an inconspicuous area as a first test. Use a small block (any pit of foam rubber will do, or buy a small block if needed, this is important so as to sand flat and not leave high or low sports. Sand across the scratch (not along it), and let the paper do the work, check your work often and stop when you get level with the scratch. Switch to the finer paper and sand across your existing sanding marks until they disappear and go slightly past them. Then to the 3000, doing the same thing, Keep paper and panel wet with the soapy water. Some like a spray bottle or a sponge to re-wet the panel. You can't use too much soapy water really. With the 3000 done dry it and check your work. Make sure you have all of the previous grit sanding marks out and you should have a nice dull flat sport you can now compound. Prime your MF pad with whatever compound you re using, and apply with low speed, then raise to around 3.5 on most rotaries (again being nice and safe for a first timer) and work across your area at about 1" per second in an overlapping motion and crosshatch. Do 3-4 passes, feel the panel heat, and then wipe off and check your work. Polish again if needed and until it finishes down shiny.

Its scary as hell the first time, but it's not at all difficult as long as you go slow, take your time and don't go to deep or hard on the sanding, or compound at too high a speed and burn, but with a small pad and medium speed it is pretty foolproof. Again do one area at a time and see how you feel.

Good luck!


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## H-M3 (Jul 13, 2006)

Thanks to everyone for their replies. I ended contacting a local detailer who wet sanded and polished it. Looks a lot better now however the very deep bit is still there. I will leave it now until funds allow. Big thanks to Danny for your detailed guide! Much appreciated.:thumb: wish you was local would’ve got some training from you:buffer:


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## Guest (Mar 10, 2020)

H-M3 said:


> Thanks to everyone for their replies. I ended contacting a local detailer who wet sanded and polished it. Looks a lot better now however the very deep bit is still there. I will leave it now until funds allow. Big thanks to Danny for your detailed guide! Much appreciated.:thumb: wish you was local would've got some training from you:buffer:


Glad you worked it out mate, and you're welcome. I hope the above is helpful to someone else searching in future.

You might try some Dr. Colourchip/Chipex for the deep scratches as a previous posted said. It'll fill them and no need for sanding as you level it with thinners.

Sorry for your troubles, I know how livid I'd be in your shoes.


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

I hope Karma comes to them.  Hope you get it sorted buddy.


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