# Simon's Garage Build



## M3simon

Evening all.
After buying my new house about a year ago, my life was put on hold while I basically stripped the house inside back to brickwork and did a full internal refurb. Whole house, replastered, full rewire, new central heating, kitchen, bathroom, etc, etc.
Moved in back in October. Mrs now Happy.
Time for phase Two, Man Cave.

The plan is to demolish the existing old concrete air raid shelter and build a double'ish garage at the end of the garden.
The area below is the planned location.


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## M3simon

First on the list of jobs was demolishing the old concrete air raid shelter garage which was built by the previous owner











Job done.


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## Megs Lad

Nice space u have mate the original garage was an abomination lol good luck


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## M3simon

Next.. Clearing the area and excavating the Foundation.


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## M3simon

New updates to follow, as soon as I've pumped out all the water.


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## Kev_mk3

shame the air raid shelter had to go as it was rather cool but understandable. Looks like youve alot of land which is great


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## realist

Nice work, I had an aunt that lived in Daveyhulme and we used to visit during school holidays :thumb:


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## M3simon

I hate this weather.
Pump required.


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## Stu Mac

Great thread. All your hard work will be worth it in the end up mate


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## WaxIsForWinners

Nice project, good luck with the weather mate!


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## Zetec-al

Will be watching with interest, i can only dream that i will be able to do this one day after moving out of a 2 bed apartment!


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## ECB

Love a good garage build. Will be watching with interest.


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## M3simon

Afternoon all.
What do we all think about including a pit?
After reading through a few other garage build threads, I'm starting to come round to the idea.
Looks easy to construct and incorporate into my existing design.


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## Rowan83

Great thread. I can only dream of having my own garage, lol


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## getthewheelsinl

Looks good & looks like that you are maximising the space available. 

Reit. Really depends on how often you would use it? & the type of work you plan to use the garage for? One of my garages has a pit. I personally prefer my ramp.

Hope you get the founds poured before the rain pulls the sides in. I agree- construction in this weather isn't easy!


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## 4StringBass

Will follow this with interest. Would love a double garage


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## Ashley1995

We knocked and rebuilt our garage over the summer. looks like you are going to have a nice amount of space to play with. Good Luck


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## SBM

Wow! sub'd this - properly was a concrete air rade shelter the old one!


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## M3simon

UPDATE
Water finally pumped out and concrete poured.
Trench blocks, sand and cement ordered and being delivered tomorrow.
Game on.


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## Rob_Quads

Don't the foundations need to go all the way around?


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## M3simon

I cheated a bit and missed that section out. Doors spanning that section.


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## M3simon

Quick Update.
Trench blocked laid.
Next step, the concrete floor


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## M3simon

Update.

Pit excavated to a depth of 1500mm ready to be DPM lined and concrete base to be poured.
Also drive and patio area started to be excavated.


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## wlmoate

Hi,

Are you going to run a hot and cold water feed to the garage seen as you have already fitted a tube for the SWA cable? 

You could fit a CAT5/6 cable at the same time in case you want to have a IP camera etc in the future or an internet radio etc 

Wayne


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## M3simon

Already laid a mdpe water main and swa cable to the garage.
It's about 20m away from the house so I didn't think hot water from the boiler as a good idea. Not planed any other services.


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## M3simon

View from the landing window.


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## M3simon

Looks like I'll have to borrow that sump pump again.


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## Sean15

I was supposed to start my garage build in October, im so pleased i never because of this reason. Cant beleive the rain the UK as had over the winter period. You just need a diving board now.


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## Cy-Zuki

Who or what you gonna bury in that hole? Yeah, yeah, inspection pit LOL!

Looks like it is going to be great - watching with interest, good luck Sean.


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## Sicskate

Pit looks a bit close to the wall?!?


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## Sean15

Sicskate said:


> Pit looks a bit close to the wall?!?


its in the middle of opening so restricted to a degree.


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> its in the middle of opening so restricted to a degree.


The finished pit size will be 2m long x 1 m wide.
The plan is to lay a sheet of 1200 gauge dpm to form a waterproof base and sides.
Cast a concrete base on top of the dpm. 
Build block walls off the concrete base up to floor level.


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## M3simon

Update.
Base now excavated.


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## 20vKarlos

How do you suppose you'll work on that pit? It doesn't look like it'll be deep enough as far as I can tell?


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## M3simon

The pits about 1500mm deep at the moment.
It could do with being deeper.
Just need the time to pump it out and do some more digging.


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## Gorselea

Wish I'd done one when I was doing mine.


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## M3simon

Another little side project I'm doing at this he same time, new front and side drive way, and rear patio. Great cash savings if you remove and buy in bulk.

Grab service only £130 for 16 tons (about 2 skips)
20 tons of MOT stone £370 (£40 per ton bag)

Only small issue I've found is the old steel gas pipe which National Grid will now have to replace.


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## M3simon

Update.
Timber frame constructed and lined with 1200 gauge dpm.
Another 2 layers of dpm lined the pit hole.
May be a bit over the top, but l wanted to make sure it never leaked.
Concrete mixed and poured.
As soon as the concretes dried I'll start building up off the concrete base with concrete blocks.


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## Kev.O

Coming along nicely.


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## M3simon

Update.
Concrete additive worked a treat. Concrete still a bit green but strong enough to stand on.
Sun's out and no rain in Manchester, which is a bonus.
3 courses of block work done.
Big Respect to any brickies out there, it's not a easy as it looks on YouTube.


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## Guest

"Big Respect to any brickies out there, it's not a easy as it looks on YouTube."

Ignoring the technical aspects of blockwork...if youve never done it before,fair play it will serve its purpose:thumb:
You would earn around £36 for that job....£10m2.There are only three rules to bricklaying...the rest is practice.
If you fill around the outside of the blockwork with concrete...should last a lifetime.


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## M3simon

£36!! It took me most of the day to do that. It's a good thing I'm not a bricky.
I wouldn't be happy with my finish either.
It will do for the pit with a splash of white paint.

Already got a bricky lined up to build all the rest of the main walls.


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## M3simon

Quick Update.
Front garden cleared and leveled.
20 tons on MOT stone coming on Monday


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## M3simon

Brick delivery arrives


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## Sean15

Just took delivery of materials same as you, be nice to see it going up now. You carrying them through to the site?


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## Forsh

M3simon said:


> 20 tons on MOT stone coming on Monday





M3simon said:


> Brick delivery arrives


Better get on with shifting them then to make room for that load of stone!:thumb:

Nice build! so far so good!

'Point of use' electric water heater might be handy rather than hot from the house _IF_ you're having a sink


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> Just took delivery of materials same as you, be nice to see it going up now. You carrying them through to the site?


Moved all the bricks today, ready for 20 ton MOT delivery tomorrow. 5 hours to move 2800 bricks.


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## Sean15

I've got a full load 720 4" solids to move and then same as you 5 packs of facing bricks. I moved 15 x25kg bags of concrete today that was enough.


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## M3simon

Update.
Productive 3 days.
All the bricks moved into the back garden.
First row of bricks laid, to bring it up to floor level. 
20 tons on MOT stone delivered this morning.
Note to ones self, it was very optimistic to think 2 of us could move 20 tons in one day.
I'm [email protected]


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## Guest

Very classy..(expensive) wheelbarrow:thumb:.Quality tools...quality job.


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## M3simon

It was, very.
I seem to be buying wheel barrows for £40 that fall apart after a few weeks.
The Belle warrior hopefully last a bit longer.


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## staffordian

M3simon said:


> It was, very.
> I seem to be buying wheel barrows for £40 that fall apart after a few weeks.
> The Belle warrior hopefully last a bit longer.


Have you worked out the best polish and wax to use on it yet? :lol:


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## M3simon

staffordian said:


> Have you worked out the best polish and wax to use on it yet? :lol:


A couple of coats of Zaino Z14 should do the trick...


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## M3simon

Update.
Slab reinforcement mesh cut to size.

Steel grating collected for the pit cover.
Good old eBay.


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## davyboy

Not sure if your planning on driving over the grating or not but the bearer (flat) bars should be running the opposite way for max strength of the panel. if you were to drive over them the way you have them laid out then all the strain is on the edge bar which is probably only welded to every 3rd bar. if its for just foot traffic should be fine if a little bouncy.


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## Daz.

From the photo's I'm surprised a car fits down the back?!


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## M3simon

davyboy said:


> Not sure if your planning on driving over the grating or not but the bearer (flat) bars should be running the opposite way for max strength of the panel. if you were to drive over them the way you have them laid out then all the strain is on the edge bar which is probably only welded to every 3rd bar. if its for just foot traffic should be fine if a little bouncy.


Thanks for the info.
It feels fine to stand on, I wasn't planning to drive on it to be honest. 
Its 1000 x 900. It's just unlucky it's not the right to way round.
Just have to make sure i park straight.
It will look better than a timber board, might even paint it.

You've got me thinking now. Might go for a re-measure/ re-design...


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## M3simon

Daz. said:


> From the photo's I'm surprised a car fits down the back?!


Measurements were taken on our first viewing of the house.
I couldn't buy a large car, it wouldn't fit between the houses..
My 3 series BMW fits with 250mm each side.


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## M3simon

Thanks Davyboy.
Well spotted.
Going to turn them round.
I'll have to cut a few bars off the end but it should all work out.


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## davyboy

No problem work with the stuff all the time at work so i noticed straight away, just cut the end off and with luck it might land on one of the bars that is welded to the edging bar. 
what size is the flat bars on it and the span ? i can check the span tables if you like and see what loading it will take


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## M3simon

davyboy said:


> No problem work with the stuff all the time at work so i noticed straight away, just cut the end off and with luck it might land on one of the bars that is welded to the edging bar.
> what size is the flat bars on it and the span ? i can check the span tables if you like and see what loading it will take


Hi mate.
The two side bars are 40mm and all other horizontal bars are 25mm.
Thanks.


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## davyboy

If they are 25 x 3 mm bars and spanning approx 900mm then the loading would be 10.5kn/m2 which is roughly 1000kg over 1m2 and rated at least 100kg over an area 300mm2 so will be fine for walking about on.
If the edge bar is 40 mm then i would advise shimming up the 15mm difference around the edge of the pit so that all the bars are loaded equally, this would also stop any sideways movement in the panels.


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## M3simon

Update.
MOT stone leveled and wacked.
Just waiting for the metal frame to be made for the top of the pit.
Laying DPM and reinforcement mesh tomorrow ready for concreting on Friday.


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## PolishBoy

Looks good, but are you sure it's big enough?? You can never have enough room you know. I realise camera pics can be deceptive, but you sure M3 fits with all detailing products, lawn mower, tools, equipment, and the Mrs's things. Speaking of which, all this time spent on project, have you been neglecting her?


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## Forsh

Welcome to DW PolishBoy :wave:

How's the 'Positive Attitude!' lessons going? :thumb:


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## PolishBoy

Thanks forsh. Yeh, doing well.
Just thinking, ever thought, 'wish it was bigger'? Garage that is, of course. 
Seriously, give M3Simon his due, very brave to build this in middle of a very wet winter.


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## PaulN

Seems a very random shape for a garage for the sake of being a little further back to the edge of your property..... Loving the old wall all around the garden though.


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## M3simon

PolishBoy said:


> Looks good, but are you sure it's big enough?? You can never have enough room you know. I realise camera pics can be deceptive, but you sure M3 fits with all detailing products, lawn mower, tools, equipment, and the Mrs's things. Speaking of which, all this time spent on project, have you been neglecting her?


I didn't really want to go down the planning application root. 30m2 was the biggest I could have.
M3s not been cleaned in months.:buffer:


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## M3simon

PaulN said:


> Seems a very random shape for a garage for the sake of being a little further back to the edge of your property..... Loving the old wall all around the garden though.


It is an odd shape. 
However, it's the best I could come up with to get it under the 30m2 and maximize the space inside, as well as get it to fit in a triangular shaped corner of the garden.


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## M3simon

Quick Update.
Metal frame made and delivered to finish off the top of the pit.


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## M3simon

Dpm and reinforcement mesh laid, ready for concrete floor pour tomorrow.


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## Guest

Looking good....somebody knows what their doing :thumb:
Basic...but the number of times its ignored
Damp proof course in walls should link with damp proof membrane in floors.


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## M3simon

aka.eric said:


> Looking good....somebody knows what their doing :thumb:
> Basic...but the number of times its ignored
> Damp proof course in walls should link with damp proof membrane in floors.


Thanks.
Think I've gone a bit OTT with all the steel and 150mm of concrete.
But what the hell.


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## PolishBoy

Roots are a nuisance in gardens but application roots are the worse! 
I see now why you didn't go bigger, the shapes unusual but all the better for it, has character.


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## Guest

Next interesting stage will be the brickwork angled corners...are you having cut/bond specials made..or hand cutting?.If your face brick have frogs in...like the one,s in the pics...limits the options.


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## M3simon

aka.eric said:


> Next interesting stage will be the brickwork angled corners...are you having cut/bond specials made..or hand cutting?.If your face brick have frogs in...like the one,s in the pics...limits the options.


Not planned to get any specials.
I was hoping my bricky was going sort them angles out.


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## M3simon

Update.
Floor concrete done.


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## nick_mcuk

M3simon said:


> Thanks.
> Think I've gone a bit OTT with all the steel and 150mm of concrete.
> But what the hell.


Christ if you think you have gone ott at 150mm for the base what have I done with a 300mm deep base then...and mine is only a wooden garage too!  :lol:


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## M3simon

Looking good so far.
I tried polishing up the concrete this morning. Gave up in the end.
Just making more marks on the surface.


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## Sean15

Looking great, is it going to be single or double skinned? Hoping to get mine ready for the floor this week.


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## Guest

"I tried polishing up the concrete this morning. Gave up in the end.
Just making more marks on the surface."

If you sprinkle some sand over the slab before the brickwork/blockwork starts it will....
Help stop the mortar droppings sticking....and all the walking about "grinds" off a lot of the trowel marks


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> Looking great, is it going to be single or double skinned? Hoping to get mine ready for the floor this week.


Cavity wall. Brick / block


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## M3simon

No update really.
Nothing to do.
Bricky not coming until after Easter.
Concrete not dry yet so can't even stack up the bricks ready to be laid.


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## Gilly

I don't usually comment on these, just admire. but your comment about the concrete has me a bit worried. Concrete should be workable at 24h. After 7 days like yours most mixes will have 50-65% or their total strength. 

If it isn't hard after 7 days, its never going to be.


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## M3simon

Gilly said:


> I don't usually comment on these, just admire. but your comment about the concrete has me a bit worried. Concrete should be workable at 24h. After 7 days like yours most mixes will have 50-65% or their total strength.
> 
> If it isn't hard after 7 days, its never going to be.


I can see where my comments went wrong.
The concrete was hardish to walk on the day after pour.
Just wasn't sure how quickly it got to full strength.
Just didn't want to pile up 400 blocks in the middle of a 7 day old concrete slab.
:thumb:


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## nick_mcuk

I was told by total concrete (the lot that delivered mine) that 1-3h it should be skining over 24h it should be firm and between 3 days to 1 week you could start building on it will reach full strength in 30 days or so. This is assuming you have regular concrete with no accelerators in. 

Mine was a C30 mix what did you go for Simon?

Obviously it depends massively on the temps and weather too


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## M3simon

nick_mcuk said:


> I was told by total concrete (the lot that delivered mine) that 1-3h it should be skining over 24h it should be firm and between 3 days to 1 week you could start building on it will reach full strength in 30 days or so. This is assuming you have regular concrete with no accelerators in.
> 
> Mine was a C30 mix what did you go for Simon?
> 
> Obviously it depends massively on the temps and weather too


To be honest, I'm not sure what strength the mix was..


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## M3simon

Update.
A bit of a wasted day due to the weather.
Brickwork below Dpc done and a couple of corners.
Rain stopped play at lunch.


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## Sean15

That sight looks familiar, just can't risk it wid facing bricks though. Looking forward to see it going up.


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## M3simon

A little more brickwork done today.
Weathers not looking good for the rest of the week..


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## jj9

Any pictures of the angled corners ?

Just wondering what method was used.



Cheers.


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## M3simon

I didn't want to spend a lot of money getting special bricks made so we just cut the angles the best we could. 
It was a bit rushed to be honest, so some are not great. However, both the angled corners are at the back so will not be seen.


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## jj9

I know how expensive specials can be so I would have done the same and cut the bricks like you have done, when the garage is up and finished you won't notice them.


Cheers.


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## M3simon

Weathers doing my head in.
Only a bit more brickwork done today.


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## klw7me

Still progress though as much as the weather is holding things up


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## nick_mcuk

I feel your pain Simon!

Whilst mine is built I really need to get it treated just as it starts to dry out more fecking rain comes down ad gets it all bloody wet again!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## M3simon

Update.
Brickies back on site today and did a bit more.





Usual SH1T in the afternoon.
Rain stops play.


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## M3simon

Update.
It's slowly getting higher.
Door lintels coming tomorrow.


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## Sean15

Unusual design of facing bricks, new but look old if you know what I mean.


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> Unusual design of facing bricks, new but look old if you know what I mean.


Pre war Cheshire commons to match the house. Or nearest modern version.

http://www.imperialhandmadebricks.co.uk/products/pre-war-common/


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## M3simon




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## klw7me

Good progress today


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## M3simon

More done today.
However, it seems to be taking much longer than I expected.
Any idea how many bricks should be laid in a day?
It's 40m2 of brick / concrete block cavity wall.


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## Ashtray

As it's mainly 4 corners and 2 profiles with not much of a run I would be expecting about 5/6 sqm per day 300/360 ish or about 10/12 sqm of block


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## M3simon

Ashtray said:


> As it's mainly 4 corners and 2 profiles with not much of a run I would be expecting about 5/6 sqm per day 300/360 ish or about 10/12 sqm of block


Is £450 per 1000 about the right price?


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## Ashtray

Yeah that's about right 1000 over 3 days works out 150 a day 330 bricks 
Is that about what your getting? It's all the faffing with corners and openings that saps the time on a straight run I would expect 700/800 a day


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## Sean15

Is that catnic lintel the one In previous pic on the floor?


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## Guest

Bricklayers point of view...
Rather than how fast can you do it...the question should be,how good can you do it?
Two questions customers always ask..."When can you start"..followed by "When will you be finished"?
Looking at the pictures,its not exactly straight forward.Youve got the squint corners..the guy,s having to cut bricks up the reveals...then there,s 3/4,s up the door openings.Its not exactly fully scaffolded.All adds up...totally different to working on say a Bovis/Redrow type site where we are just human bricklaying machines.


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> Is that catnic lintel the one In previous pic on the floor?


Yes. Front and side door.


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## Sean15

The catnic above the main door, is the bottom of it closed or open? Hard to tell on the pic.


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> The catnic above the main door, is the bottom of it closed or open? Hard to tell on the pic.


It's open.
Closed would of been a lot better. A bit of an oversight on my part.
Also should of got the bricks to wrap around the door reveals instead of seeing the blockwork.
I'll just have to cover the reveals with some pvc trim.
:wall:


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## M3simon

Brickwork should be finished on Monday.


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## wd40

Looks good and taking shape nicely there mate :thumb:


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## dave-g

Looks very good in the above pictures, wasn't sure on the pit idea originally but looks like it's workedout well there!

Nice sized space too :thumb:


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## Guest

M3simon said:


> It's open.
> Closed would of been a lot better. A bit of an oversight on my part.
> Also should of got the bricks to wrap around the door reveals instead of seeing the blockwork.
> I'll just have to cover the reveals with some pvc trim.
> :wall:


Anything is possible but...if its a cavity wall,you would be bridging the cavity.Unless you had pillars which then returned to cavity work,the bricklayer would be pulling his hair out with all the cuts.
What type of doors are you having?...usually fix door frames to cover the vertical dpc.


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## M3simon

aka.eric said:


> Anything is possible but...if its a cavity wall,you would be bridging the cavity.Unless you had pillars which then returned to cavity work,the bricklayer would be pulling his hair out with all the cuts.
> What type of doors are you having?...usually fix door frames to cover the vertical dpc.


Going for a Hormann LPU40 Sectional Door.
Not sure if the doors going to be fixed between the opening or inside n the internal block.

http://www.garagedoorsonline.co.uk/hormannlpusectionalgaragedoors1.php


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## Guest

Some pics here of the doors fitted between or behind the wall....
http://www.diygaragedoors.co.uk/sectionaldoors.htm
If its behind the wall and you need to cover the reveals....Hormann say they supply a fascia in the same material as the door...page 75
http://www.garagedoorsonline.co.uk/download/Hormann Sectional Doors Brochure 2015.pdf 
So its not a major problem...not like having a custom door made,and the opening is too small.


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## brad mole

almost there now! it feels good when you get to this stage doesnt it? which LPU40 door are you going for? i highly reccomend one and from garage doors online too, i had great service from them and they were the cheapest place too!


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## M3simon

brad mole said:


> almost there now! it feels good when you get to this stage doesnt it? which LPU40 door are you going for? i highly reccomend one and from garage doors online too, i had great service from them and they were the cheapest place too!


It's looking like the Medium ribbed silkgrain, with electric opener, fitted on the internal blockwork.


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## WO-WO

Fix the door in the opening otherwise you'll loose inches on the length.

Horman do cigarette lighter openers which are a nice touch too.


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## M3simon

Brickwork finally all done.
Hopefully going to start on the roof this weekend.

Just a few finishing touches to do.


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## M3simon

Praying for no rain tomorrow.
Hopefully getting the roof on.


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## Sean15

I don't really want to say this but the mortar spacing on that step looks all over the place, will that not let water into the garage, water will track across the step maybe.


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> I don't really want to say this but the mortar spacing on that step looks all over the place, will that not let water into the garage, water will track across the step maybe.


Didn't think it was that bad for my first attempt.
I admit the middle joint wasn't great. Floors dpm is still in place behind the bricks.


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## Sean15

M3simon said:


> Didn't think it was that bad for my first attempt.
> I admit the middle joint wasn't great. Floors dpm is still in place behind the bricks.


Sorry I thought the builder had done it. Done well to keep the mortar off the bricks. It's like most things the more you touch and play around wide things the worse it can make it, breaking the seal etc.

Gonna be interesting to see the unusual shaped roof going on.


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## M3simon

Rain stops play.
Most of the roof timbers in place.
Dam this weather.


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## klw7me

I'm loving seeing the progress here


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## Jesse_James

This is amazing really like these threads if you don't mind me asking have you got a rough cost? 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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## M3simon

Jesse_James said:


> This is amazing really like these threads if you don't mind me asking have you got a rough cost?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


The budgets £10500.
That's everything from foundation, floor, brickwork, roof, electrics, door. Etc.
I've paid for all the materials and done all the work myself (had a lot of help from my dad), except the labour for the brickwork.


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## Jesse_James

It's a really impressive build mate hats off to you

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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## distracted

Looks fantastic. Fair play for doing all of the brickwork, especially with the angled cuts etc. Looks really smart. The pit worked out really well too. I probably would have kept the air raid shelter though


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## M3simon

distracted said:


> Looks fantastic. Fair play for doing all of the brickwork, especially with the angled cuts etc. Looks really smart. The pit worked out really well too. I probably would have kept the air raid shelter though


Sorry, did the trench block and first course of brickwork.
Got a bricklayer to do all the walls up to roof level.


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## Guest

Id get some straps on the roof asap...does,nt take that much wind to turn the roof into a kite.


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## nick_mcuk

aka.eric said:


> Id get some straps on the roof asap...does,nt take that much wind to turn the roof into a kite.


No this is very true once the wind gets under it it could be 5 houses down the road :lol:


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## M3simon

nick_mcuk said:


> No this is very true once the wind gets under it it could be 5 houses down the road :lol:


It has been fixed onto the brickwork in places but I have got more fixings to install.


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## M3simon

All the roof timbers and decking in place.
Rain stopped play again.


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## Guest

M3simon said:


> It has been fixed onto the brickwork in places but I have got more fixings to install.


As your not using a wallplate....these are the way to go.Fixing through the joists into the top of the brickwork is a bit dodgy.


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## M3simon




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## M3simon

Rubber roof goes on tomorrow.


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## jason_price85

Great build garage looks alot bigger than i thought it would be, whats the reason for the size of over hang you have used on the roof?, be intresting to hear your views on rubber roof something i might looking into my my garage.


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## M3simon

Update.
Rubber roof, fascia and soffits DONE.
Forgot to buy any gutters for some reason.


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## M3simon

jason_price85 said:


> Great build garage looks alot bigger than i thought it would be, whats the reason for the size of over hang you have used on the roof?, be intresting to hear your views on rubber roof something i might looking into my my garage.


No real technical reason other than the beams were 6m long which gave me 250mm overhang on each side.
Soffit board also came in 250mm width.
400mm overhang at the front just to shelter the door.

Rubber roof went on really easy. Only issue was getting it up there on the roll.
God dam heavy.

I went for 1.5mm Classic bond rubber.

http://www.classicbond.co.uk


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## Banksy40

M3simon said:


> No real technical reason other than the beams were 6m long which gave me 250mm overhang on each side.
> Soffit board also came in 250mm width.
> 400mm overhang at the front just to shelter the door.
> 
> Rubber roof went on really easy. Only issue was getting it up there on the roll.
> God dam heavy.
> 
> I went for 1.5mm Classic bond rubber.
> 
> http://www.classicbond.co.uk


We have a rubber roof on our shed, very easy to put on and has weathered very well.

Mother in law has had her garage and kitchen roof done. Had it done a couple of years now and you can not tell, looks like new. She keeps telling us it will out live her, the way it looks it will out live us too.


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## organisys

EPDM Rubber roof been on my large shed for 6+ years now, looks like new....


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## M3simon

organisys said:


> EPDM Rubber roof been on my large shed for 6+ years now, looks like new....


All good to hear. Sounds like I've not wasted my money.


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## M3simon

Side pvc door and fitted.
Also gutters fitted and soak excavated and fitted.


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## M3simon

Also made a start on the front entrance brick on edge cill.
Not really my best work. Could of been a bit more in line and straighter.
Never as easy as it looks.


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## Sean15

Looks like you were using a string line, what's the insulation for?


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## mcglynn

Going to guess to kneel on 

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


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## autograph

I would say the insulation is for going between the rafters. Looks great well done.


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> Looks like you were using a string line, what's the insulation for?


For the roof. Going between the beams.


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## M3simon

Cill finished.
Not my best work.


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## autograph

Looking good mate, brilliant work. Cant beat a good man cave.


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## Guest

M3simon said:


> Cill finished.
> Not my best work.


Bricklaying rules...
Always work to a line (to the line..not pushing against it)
If in doubt...set the bricks out dry first adjust the joints to avoid cuts.You could put a pencil mark every few bricks on the slab.
You have put the cut in the middle..not just started from one end,thats a good move :thumb:
Id be concerned that when you reverse out of the garage...it will loosen the bricks.


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## Sean15

Are you going to have enough clearance to fit a sectional door, 2 bricks is only 150mm.


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> Are you going to have enough clearance to fit a sectional door, 2 bricks is only 150mm.


I hope so.
I'm sure it said 114mm required.
I guess I better check.


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## Guest

Sean15 said:


> Are you going to have enough clearance to fit a sectional door, 2 bricks is only 150mm.


What are you measuring?.The gauge for two courses of metric brick is 150mm.Imperial are bigger.


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## Sean15

I was just going by the picture, 2 bricks and a bed of mortar 65+10+65+10mm

114mm should be more than adequate. For some reason i thought you needed 300mm head clearance.


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## MaddoxE92

Nice moat hope it keeps the detailing gremlins out


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## M3simon

Roof insulation all done.
On to painting.
First wall done.


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## M3simon

Painting done.
Started on the electrics


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## klw7me

Can really start to appreciate the size now


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## M3simon

klw7me said:


> Can really start to appreciate the size now


Looks bigger inside now it's painted for some reason.


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## enc

nice job :thumb:


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## johny555ive

Amazing, great shape too.


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## M3simon

Quick update.
Been busy at work the last few weeks so not much has happened"
Conduit mostly done.
Water pipework installed for outside tap and pressure washer feed.
Floor paint bought.


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## Zetec-al

Looking good!


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## M3simon

Update.
Electrics nearly completed, cables installed.
Water pipework and taps installed.
Floor painted, however not sure I like the colour. Ordered a lighter grey for a repaint.


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## dave-g

Mega like :thumb:

Been great following this coming together, it looks fantastic and a very decent size.

Look toward to seeing how you arranger the insides now :thumb:


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## Zetec-al

I can only dream... no.. one day i will have a space like this.

Only thing thats messing with my OCD is the hose.. would have to be a little neater for me.. Sorry i'll shut up now.


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## M3simon

Thanks.
Starting to look completed now.


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## M3simon

Zetec-al said:


> I can only dream... no.. one day i will have a space like this.
> 
> Only thing thats messing with my OCD is the hose.. would have to be a little neater for me.. Sorry i'll shut up now.


:lol::lol:


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## Sean15

Looking forward to seeing the door go on (so i can grab a few tips when i come to put mine on) 
The side door is letting plenty of light in as well.


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## WO-WO

dave-g said:


> Mega like :thumb:
> 
> Been great following this coming together, it looks fantastic and a very decent size.
> 
> Look toward to seeing how you arranger the insides now :thumb:


This.....

Brilliant project!

I think you've made the right choice on the floor colour as the dark colours show up every bit of dirt etc. I have red in mine which is pretty good but I also have a black 12" section across the front which is a PITA!

Nice work!


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## jon-v8

Looks really good that, you should be proud considering you have done most of the work yourself.

With regards to the floor paint, did you use a sealer first?
I'm due to paint my garage floor (new build house) in the next few weeks.


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## M3simon

jon-v8 said:


> Looks really good that, you should be proud considering you have done most of the work yourself.
> 
> With regards to the floor paint, did you use a sealer first?
> I'm due to paint my garage floor (new build house) in the next few weeks.


Thanks mate.
I used the below epoxy floor paint.
Didn't need a sealer.
Seems good stuff.
Give them a call for advice. They were nice and helpful.

http://www.regalfloorpaint.co.uk/garage-floor-paint.html


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## M3simon

Floor repainted.


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## Paul JC

Looks great! 

Sent from my XT1562 using Tapatalk


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## M3simon

LED Pit light installed.
Bottom of the pit walls doesn't seem to be drying out yet.
Can't believe any ground water is getting through 3 layers of 1200 gauge DPM.


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## M3simon

Can't go wrong with a bit of Man Cave wall art


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## Zetec-al

Looking good! Will be nice when the door goes in

Will you be insulating/boarding the ceiling?


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## M3simon

Zetec-al said:


> Looking good! Will be nice when the door goes in
> 
> Will you be insulating/boarding the ceiling?


Ceiling already insulated. 150mm PIR. No plans to board it out.


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## Forsh

Nice signage!

White walls in the pit when/if it dries out?
Bounce the light around


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## M3simon

Forsh said:


> Nice signage!
> 
> White walls in the pit when/if it dries out?
> Bounce the light around


Hopefully it will dry out at some point.
The middle of the floor seems dry. 
It's just the edges of the floor and the bottom of the walls.

:wall::wall::wall:


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## M3simon

Managed to get a couple of lockable filing cabinets for free. Just the cost of van hire.
Should do the job.


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## Paul JC

M3simon said:


> LED Pit light installed.
> Bottom of the pit walls doesn't seem to be drying out yet.
> Can't believe any ground water is getting through 3 layers of 1200 gauge DPM.


Loving the shoes off at the door lol!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## robby71

Have you tried sticking a dehumidifier in the pit to help dry it out?


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## M3simon

robby71 said:


> Have you tried sticking a dehumidifier in the pit to help dry it out?


No, but that's not a bad idea.
I'll give it a go.


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## Daniel Branco

What a great great work! Congratulations. 

Envoyé de mon GT-I9082 en utilisant Tapatalk


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## AdamC

Really like the look of those cabinets, can't complain for free!!


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## M3simon

AdamC said:


> Really like the look of those cabinets, can't complain for free!!


£35 to hire a van.
:thumb:


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## M3simon

Not much to do on the garage until the doors delivered.
Making a start on the perimeter path an driveway.


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## WO-WO

Looking good!


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## Guest

Good idea to leave a gravel border between the path and brickwork.Biggest cause of brickwork falling apart at low level is rain splashing...freezing in winter.
Path,drive etc should strictly be minimum 150mm below DPC...you might struggle there without showing the common brick/blocks though.


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## M3simon

Not a bad idea. The bottom 2 rows are engineering bricks.


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## M3simon

Door hopefully coming next week.
Nice.....


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## M3simon

A bit of landscaping started before the door gets fitted.


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## M3simon

Door delivery today.
Hopefully get it fitted over the weekend.


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## Sean15

Nearly there now, hope you get decent weather over the weekend. Looking forward for the updates.


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## M3simon

Door finally fitted and working.
The Hormann door is easy to install, took me about 8 hours. You could probably install the door in half a day when you know how.
Just need to fit pvc cover beads around the door reveals.
Took me longer to program the door fobs for some reason.

Just lights to install now.


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## richtea78

Are the doors standard widths? Wouldn't a wider one be safer?


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## Zetec-al

Looks great with the door on now


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## M3simon

richtea78 said:


> Are the doors standard widths? Wouldn't a wider one be safer?


I made the door opening 2700mm wide to suit a standard size.


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## rob267

That looks great. Nice choice of colour for the door. How did the pit get on? Did it dry out completely? 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk


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## M3simon

rob267 said:


> That looks great. Nice choice of colour for the door. How did the pit get on? Did it dry out completely?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk


Yes, dehumidifier did the job


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## Sean15

What colour are you going to do the trims to cover the blockwork? White or green to match the door?


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## M3simon

Sean15 said:


> What colour are you going to do the trims to cover the blockwork? White or green to match the door?


Probably just white pvc trim. Not sure I'll be able to get a trim in the matching green.
I'll probably have a look on google see what's available.


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## Sean15

Can get anything any colour these days. I was thinking probably green would look great.


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## M3simon

Lights installed and working.
Think I now need a garden shed.
Green upvc architrave board ordered for around the door reveal.


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## Doona

You should be really proud of that! Been following the thread, very impressive


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## Zetec-al

Grear looking space! I will keep dreaming..


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## wd40

Looks fantastic mate. :thumb:
Love the shape of it too


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## srhutch

Have you put lights in the pit?

I've just moved into a new house with pit. 3.5m long 1m wide and 6 foot deep. 

It needs some lights and some sort of raised duck boards, so would be interested to know what you have done.


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## M3simon

srhutch said:


> Have you put lights in the pit?
> 
> I've just moved into a new house with pit. 3.5m long 1m wide and 6 foot deep.
> 
> It needs some lights and some sort of raised duck boards, so would be interested to know what you have done.


I've put an led batten in the pit.
This is an old photo, so the pits all dried out now


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## srhutch

Was also just reading about stail air in pits being an issue as it falls to the bottom posing a spark risk with petrol fumes and a risk to health.

I have no idea when my pit was last used or what the air is like so thinking of using a bathroom fan and dropping the hose down to the bottom to vent it before use. Probably OTT, but better to be safe than sorry.


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## M3simon

srhutch said:


> Was also just reading about stail air in pits being an issue as it falls to the bottom posing a spark risk with petrol fumes and a risk to health.
> 
> I have no idea when my pit was last used or what the air is like so thinking of using a bathroom fan and dropping the hose down to the bottom to vent it before use. Probably OTT, but better to be safe than sorry.


Yes, there is some risks with a pit, surely very minimal at home.


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## scooby73

Amazing build and a great thread. Thanks for posting.:thumb:


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## M3simon

A few finishing touches.
Pvc cover bead around door reveals.


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## M3simon

Just need to remove the old shed and construct a new driveway now.
Time for more skips and digging.


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## VIPER

What are you going to do the driveway in?

(oh, superb work on the build btw. :thumb


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## Paul JC

Looking great

Sent from my XT1562 using Tapatalk


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## M3simon

VIPER said:


> What are you going to do the driveway in?
> 
> (oh, superb work on the build btw. :thumb


Very good question.
Not sure yet. Dig out and back fill with MOT stone for now.


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## VIPER

Yes, it needs careful consideration as it's a big financial and time consuming committment as I'm sure you're well aware of. I have a large expanse of block paving at this house which I hate, but thankfully the house is for sale and it'll be someone else's problem then. House I'm moving to (fingers cross) is tarmac and so pretty much maintenance free.


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## Kev.O

Fantastic progress, well done.


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## wlmoate

Hi,

With regards some suggestions for a driveway, the following need maintenance:


Block Paving, needs resanding after a power wash. Can suffer from movement. If the sub base is not deep enough. Especailly on clay due to contraction and expansion due to the ground drying then becoming wet
Imprimeted concrete, needs the top layer adding every 18 months to 2 years. Very Slippery

The following needs less to no maintenance:


Gravel, this can be secured using a plastic grid. Look at www.gridforce.co.uk for pics etc
Concrete
Tarmac
Paving flags, ensure they are set on a full wet bed, not 5 dots of concrete

Which ever you use don't skimp on sub base reinforcement.

Hope that helps
Wayne


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## VIPER

Additional to block paving downsides (at least in my case) - if you live anywhere near open countryside to your south or west (the way the wind normally blows from), it's prone to weeds. all the seeds and spores will settle in the joints and you'll be forever plagued with them. Also there's a potential ant problem in the Summer months as they just love building their nests in the underlying sand. If they get a hold and excavate enough of it out, that can also cause low points in the level.


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## M3simon

wlmoate said:


> Hi,
> 
> With regards some suggestions for a driveway, the following need maintenance:
> 
> 
> Block Paving, needs resanding after a power wash. Can suffer from movement. If the sub base is not deep enough. Especailly on clay due to contraction and expansion due to the ground drying then becoming wet
> Imprimeted concrete, needs the top layer adding every 18 months to 2 years. Very Slippery
> 
> The following needs less to no maintenance:
> 
> 
> Gravel, this can be secured using a plastic grid. Look at www.gridforce.co.uk for pics etc
> Concrete
> Tarmac
> Paving flags, ensure they are set on a full wet bed, not 5 dots of concrete
> 
> Which ever you use don't skimp on sub base reinforcement.
> 
> Hope that helps
> Wayne


Hi Mate
What do you mean by sub base reinforcement?
I'm putting a Membrain down to try an stop weeds coming up and starting off with 150mm of MOT Stone.


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## Jue

Great thread mate, very impressive build


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## klw7me

This looks spot on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## wlmoate

Hi,

sub base reinforcement stops the hardcore (MOT) from slowly sinking into the sub base E.G. the ground. It looks like weed block but is more industrial. A very worth while investment.

www.pavingexpert.com is an excellent resource


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## M3simon

wlmoate said:


> Hi,
> 
> sub base reinforcement stops the hardcore (MOT) from slowly sinking into the sub base E.G. the ground. It looks like weed block but is more industrial. A very worth while investment.
> 
> www.pavingexpert.com is an excellent resource


Thanks.

Sounds good, already planned to put down driveway geotextile membrane.


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## STRicky

Awesome effort here mate, looking forward to the completed pictures!


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## Palmer02

Looking good


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## M3simon

Finally managed to dig out the rest of the drive way.
Next, 20 tons of MOT stone.
Might even get my car in for winter


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## Kev_mk3

cracking build. Looks like the same door as me to


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## M3simon

Quick update.
Been busy, need to get this drive completed.


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## M3simon

20 tons by hand. Nice.


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## dandam

Fair play to you


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## Kev.O

Looking really good.


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## Mr Gurn

Just read the whole thread, and hats off to you bud...... AMAZING job!!!

The big question you have to ask yourself is........... what are you going to do with your time once this is done........ lol.


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## M3simon

Mr Gurn said:


> Just read the whole thread, and hats off to you bud...... AMAZING job!!!
> 
> The big question you have to ask yourself is........... what are you going to do with your time once this is done........ lol.


Good question mate.
Still the granite sett block edging to lay and then the driveway and stone patio to lay
I'm sure the Mrs will find me something to do after that.


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## BenEarles

Great project 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mr Gurn

M3simon said:


> Good question mate.
> Still the granite sett block edging to lay and then the driveway and stone patio to lay
> I'm sure the Mrs will find me something to do after that.


They seem to be good at that.... finding things for us to do at weekends!:wall:


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## shanef

Great thread you have really worked hard, hats off to you


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## M3simon

shanef said:


> Great thread you have really worked hard, hats off to you


:thumb::thumb:


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## M3simon

Update.
Not updated this thread for a long time.
Garage is pretty much done. Just finishing off the drive and patio


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## Daz.

Was doing that drive difficult? I want to do similar to my patio.


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## M3simon

Daz. said:


> Was doing that drive difficult? I want to do similar to my patio.


I wouldn't say it was difficult.
Just take you time and keep to the pattern.


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## organisys

Looks great!


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## M3simon

organisys said:


> Looks great!


Thanks. A few final photos to follow in a week or so.
:driver:


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## markyboy1510

Didn't want this thread to end... where are the final photos? I've noticed a lot of these threads start off well then never actually show the final snaps : (


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