# AL DETAIL - The Exterior Detailing Process



## Littler (Nov 8, 2010)

Hi, this is my first post on here and hopefully many more will follow. I am not a Detailing Business officially but I have been detailing cars for about 9 years now. The guide below is what I have been doing in the past but even though it's a guide please fell free to give advice on any areas as I am always looking to improve the processes I use! In the end we are all seeking perfection in a finish!

Read on and I hope you find it useful!

WASHING

1)	First the pre-wash, first remove the number plates, if you do not have a foam lance, use a citrus degreaser on the bottom half of the car and thoroughly rinse working from the roof down. Otherwise foam the whole car and then rinse thoroughly making sure all loose dirt is removed.

2)	Many detailers clean the wheels at different stages; a good way to go is after the pre-wash/pre-foam spray your preferred wheel cleaner (preferably a non-acidic cleaner) on the wheel face agitate and with a brush. You then move onto the inner wheel and caliper (moving the car allows easier access to the section blocked by the caliper), and then finally rinse the wheel off.

3)	Now the wheels are done move onto the arches and tyres, use a degreaser on the arches and tyres, agitate with a brush and rinse thoroughly.

4)	Now the engine bay, a lot of people are a bit worried when it comes to the engine, modern engines are made to get wet but to be safe cover any exposed parts/wires. The most effective product is a degreaser, cover the entire engine bay and agitate the worst areas with a detailing brush. To rinse off avoid a pressure washer or have it on a low setting, the easiest way is using free flowing water over the engine. Repeat this on the underside of the bonnet followed by putting the engine on for 5-10 minutes to dry it off quicker!

5)	The door shuts, trim gaps, trims and badges are the next place to clean, mix a spray bottle of the car soap and warm water (20:1) give it a shake and spray these areas agitating difficult areas with a detailing brush. For the rinse angle the hose/pressure washer away from the interior and rinse off.

6)	Now we finally get to the actual wash, all detailers agree that the two-bucket method is the best way to avoid adding scratches/swirls to the finish. To add that bit more reassurance use grit guards in both buckets as this stops the dirt getting back into your washing tool. For those who are just getting started in detailing the two-bucket method is having one bucket with your car shampoo in it and the other with clean water for the rinse. It is better to use a microfiber or lambs wool hand mitt to do the wash, as this is less likely to scratch the finish. To wash the car start from the top and work down going in straight lines (this way if any scratches do unfortunately get on the finish because they will be straight lines they are easier to rectify). Once the wash is finished rinse down thoroughly from top to bottom. 

7)	This isn’t necessary but it’s the preferred thing to do, drive the car forward and back to clean off the brakes otherwise it ruins the whole look of a clean car.




CLAYING

8)	With the car still wet and with your chosen lubricant at hand if needed slowly work over a panel at a time with the clay. While doing this keep checking the clay and fold it in and flatten to get a clean section when the dirt has built up. This can be a very long process but if you want a really smooth surface you will be patient and it is worth it. Don’t forget to clay the door shuts too! Now rinse the car off again and dry with a high quality microfiber drying towel.

POLISH/COMPOUND

9)	The first thing you need to do is assess the paint, now lots of professional detailers use correctly calibrated paint thickness gauges. This allows the detailer to know exactly how much paint there is on each panel. If you do not have this facility please take care with the process. Regardless of the facilities you have always start with the least aggressive compound to get the job done. This way you only take the amount of paint off that is needed. As with claying this stage can take a lot of time and effort. Remember that this can also be done to the wheels with the appropriate polish!

10)	In some cases, scratches will remain and the way to get rid of them will be wet sanding, I will not say how to do this, as I am not confident enough with my skill in the sanding area to give a guide on it.

11)	Once you have found a combination of pad/compound/machine that works effectively go over the whole car while always referring to the paint readings when going to a new panel. As you work your way round each panel buff off the excess with a microfiber cloth.

12)	To finish the polishing stage, use a pre-wax polish (a polish that has no abrasives). Every detailer will have their own favourites but if you are a consumer and are not sure a safe way to go is to stick with the same brand for the pre-wax and wax. Apply this in straight lines by hand with an foam applicator and then buff off with a microfiber cloth. 

WAX

13)	For the final stage give the car a wipe down with a quick detailer and a microfiber cloth. 

14)	Choose your wax, take on applicator pad and apply in straight lines and add a thin even coat of wax around the car. The curing time for a wax can vary from brand to brand, but basically if you can swipe your finger on the wax and it is clear then it is ready to be removed.

15)	You can add more coats as you choose to give greater protection by following the step above.

16)	If you choose to you can add a wax or sealant to the wheels as well following the same steps and using an appropriate wax.

EXHAUSTS/ENGINE

17)	With the engine you can simply apply a dressing and leave it to dry and then buff any excess. 

18)	The exhausts can take time depending on the material and the state of them, using a metal polish can bring them back to life and really add a finishing look to the car! Apply by machine or hand and buff off with microfiber towel, with the inside of exhausts you may choose to use wire wool to clean them up.

WINDOWS

19)	Apply your preferred window cleaner to windows and buff with microfiber clothes while checking for any smearing.

PLASTICS

20)	With plastics choose a plastics restorer to bring them back to their former glory. If they can be removed do so as this makes the job easier.

NUMBER PLATE

21)	Clean the number plate and then use a polish/compound to get rid of swirls and put back on the car.

JOB DONE! Now the interior!

Thanks for reading!

Adam


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## quimpecavel (Nov 7, 2010)

good job on this thread! keep it up :thumb:


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## prokopas (Apr 29, 2010)

Very nice thread. GJ


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## Ingo (Oct 13, 2010)

thanks for that! 

gonna be printing this out to use :thumb:


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