# Well so....im starting Detailing next week!



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

***DETAIL COMPLETED**PLZ**VEIW PICS**Well so....im starting Detailing next week!*

Dear All,

I am new here and would love your advise and support, please!!!!

So since I have had my car 3 years I would like to believe I have done a good job looking after it, both mechanically and the paint work!

You may see a pics of my car here: https://www.dropbox.com/sc/d53ovzk15s7l9be/R2EGfCFWlg

Anyway here in the UK the sun is out, and I have cleaned my car and it gleeeeems!! But I want to get that gleam ever better if possible?

I wash it with Autoglym Body Shampoo and Polish it with Autoglym Polish.

I have never clayed or waxed the car so I will be ordering the following, to give it a go. Please tell me honestly, will it actually make a big difference? If not, It might not be worth the money?!?

So this is what I will be doing once ordering:

1) Washing with AutoGlym Body Shampoo
2) Claying with Autoglym Surface Detailing Clay Kit 
3) Cleanse with Autoglym 500ml High Definition Cleanser
4) Polish with Autoglym Polish
5) Wax with Autoglym HD Wax

I might also order C4 Permanent Trim Restorer to restore some of the trims but scared I might ruin them in the process!

Guys you may see pictures, of my car by using this link:

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/d53ovzk15s7l9be/R2EGfCFWlg

All your help is greatly appreciated! Thank You!!!!


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

You have some really good products there, the new SRP and HD wax are both fantastic. Claying will make a huge difference to the overall finish. You might want to order some tar remover and Iron X to use prior to clay. If your paint looks good I would use HD Cleaner followed by the wax. If you need to fill some light swirls then a few coats of SRP then HD wax.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

AndyA4TDI said:


> You have some really good products there, the new SRP and HD wax are both fantastic. Claying will make a huge difference to the overall finish. You might want to order some tar remover and Iron X to use prior to clay. If your paint looks good I would use HD Cleaner followed by the wax. If you need to fill some light swirls then a few coats of SRP then HD wax.


So just to go over (sorry)

Use tar remover and Iron X before claying as well as HD Cleanser?

EDIT: A few coats of SRP? I was under the impression, you only ever apply one coat?!?


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

Hi mate, I would wash, de-tar, Iron X, clay, wash, SRP or HD Cleanser, wax. You really want to remove any tar or brake dust prior to claying. You could get away with just using clay but you risk dragging a piece of tar with grit attached all over your paint when claying. I would clay after tar removal at the very least. AG do a cheap tar remover.


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

upcoming said:


> So just to go over (sorry)
> 
> Use tar remover and Iron X before claying as well as HD Cleanser?
> 
> EDIT: A few coats of SRP? I was under the impression, you only ever apply one coat?!?


SRP is full of fillers so a couple of costs won't do any harm that said if you are happy with the paint HD Cleanser and HD wax will look great.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

AndyA4TDI said:


> Hi mate, I would wash, de-tar, Iron X, clay, wash, SRP or HD Cleanser, wax. You really want to remove any tar or brake dust prior to claying. You could get away with just using clay but you risk dragging a piece of tar with grit attached all over your paint when claying. I would clay after tar removal at the very least. AG do a cheap tar remover.


Thanks! Iron X is that pink stuff ? Looks quite scary, thought it for alloys only. Do you literally spray it and wash it off ?

Thanks dude!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Also going by my pictures, do you think my car will look even cleaner? Or is this process just to take all the muck off and protecting it?

Thanks again


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

Iron X is clear and smells awful. I use it on paintwork no problem. I just spray on leave a minute or two then pressure washer off. Your paint will be a lot cleaner if you use de-tar, Iron X and clay. They will also improve the overall finish and your wax will be sitting on very smooth and clean paint. This will aid durability.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

AndyA4TDI said:


> Iron X is clear and smells awful. I use it on paintwork no problem. I just spray on leave a minute or two then pressure washer off. Your paint will be a lot cleaner if you use de-tar, Iron X and clay. They will also improve the overall finish and your wax will be sitting on very smooth and clean paint. This will aid durability.


Ok cool sounds interesting! What de-tar remover shall I use anything from AG?

Thanks again! Looks like this is gonna be an expensive month


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Using the paint cleaner before SRP will do a better job at cleaning the paint than just SRP. It could easily be argued that this is overkill but so is 99% of the stuff we discuss on these forums.

Your plan looks good to me. The cleaner the paint the better everything will look. SRP can be layered. Apply the first coat and let it fully cure, the second coat should be applied very lightly


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

upcoming said:


> Ok cool sounds interesting! What de-tar remover shall I use anything from AG?
> 
> Thanks again! Looks like this is gonna be an expensive month


you can use Ag tar and adhesive remover from their range or like me use autosmarts tardis although there are many tar removers out there :thumb:


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> Using the paint cleaner before SRP will do a better job at cleaning the paint than just SRP. It could easily be argued that this is overkill but so is 99% of the stuff we discuss on these forums.
> 
> Your plan looks good to me. The cleaner the paint the better everything will look. SRP can be layered. Apply the first coat and let it fully cure, the second coat should be applied very lightly


Hi

When you refer to paint cleaner do you mean AG High Definition cleanser ?

This is confusing me!

Right so am I doing this in the following order:

1) wash the car with AG body shampoo
2) Tar remover + Iron X
3) AG HD Definition cleanser 
4) AG Polish
5) AG HD Wax

Sorry if I'm being a pain!!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

suspal said:


> you can use Ag tar and adhesive remover from their range or like me use autosmarts tardis although there are many tar removers out there :thumb:


Thanks. Sounds good. Literally wipe on and wipe off using Micro fibre cloth ?

Thanks. First forum I've ever used and people are so helpful! People outside in the world should be like this


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

lowejackson said:


> Using the paint cleaner before SRP will do a better job at cleaning the paint than just SRP. It could easily be argued that this is overkill but so is 99% of the stuff we discuss on these forums.
> 
> Your plan looks good to me. The cleaner the paint the better everything will look. SRP can be layered. Apply the first coat and let it fully cure, the second coat should be applied very lightly


A very good point. No harm using both then HD wax. Use the HD Cleanser to clean then SRP to fill and add gloss. Using both should then you give you peace of mind that you could have done no more to get the best finish possible.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Ok what about Glaze? Or as a first timer shall I relax my hype lol?!? Thanks guys!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

AndyA4TDI said:


> A very good point. No harm using both then HD wax. Use the HD Cleanser to clean then SRP to fill and add gloss. Using both should then you give you peace of mind that you could have done no more to get the best finish possible.


Gloss is HD Wax correct ?

(Sorry & thanks)


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

upcoming said:


> Hi
> 
> When you refer to paint cleaner do you mean AG High Definition cleanser ?
> 
> ...


Yes, this is right but include the claying. HD Cleanser is your paint cleaner


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

upcoming said:


> Hi
> 
> When you refer to paint cleaner do you mean AG High Definition cleanser ?
> 
> ...


Sorry, I should have been clearer. Yes, HD cleanser is the paint cleaner, all these terms can get very confusing.

Work on cool panels, very very few products work well with hot paint


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

upcoming said:


> Ok what about Glaze? Or as a first timer shall I relax my hype lol?!? Thanks guys!


The SRP acts as a glaze


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

upcoming said:


> Gloss is HD Wax correct ?
> 
> (Sorry & thanks)


The gloss will come from the cleanser and the SRP, the wax will add something but it's main job is to lock in all your hard work. The beading with HD wax is awesome.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Right I think I am finally getting it! Just want to confirm this is the best steps!!

1) wash the car with AG body shampoo
2) Tar remover + Iron X
3) AG HD Definition cleanser 
4) AG Clay
5) AG SRP
6) AG HD Wax

(I have the old AG polish I THINK need to check. If its the old one will the new SRP much better? )

Sorry if I'm being a pain!!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> Sorry, I should have been clearer. Yes, HD cleanser is the paint cleaner, all these terms can get very confusing.
> 
> Work on cool panels, very very few products work well with hot paint


Its fine, you are being helpful as it is


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

upcoming said:


> Right I think I am finally getting it! Just want to confirm this is the best steps!!
> 
> 1) wash the car with AG body shampoo
> 2) Tar remover + Iron X
> ...


Clay before HD Cleanser mate. Old SRP is fine new is better


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

upcoming said:


> .....(I have the old AG polish I THINK need to check. If its the old one will the new SRP much better? )..


I recently bought a bottle of the new SRP just to compare it and in my view the new version is a much nicer product to use


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

PS you are not being a pain, we are here to help


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

lowejackson said:


> I recently bought a bottle of the new SRP just to compare it and in my view the new version is a much nicer product to use


Very true, but the old one will be fine if you have spent all your cash


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Thanks guys. Just checked and I have AG SRP!

Also would this be the Iron X CarPro Iron X 500ml Retail pack: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

I am so scared I might ruin my paint work with all this stuff!

I was going to pick these micro fibre clothes up for the detailing ?

Microfibre Cloths - Pack of 10 Cloths - Large 40cm x 40cm - Blue - Great for Cleaning Cars, Boats, Kitchens etc.: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

Yes, that's the one, Iron X and clay will be fine on your paint, don't worry. They will make such a difference.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

IronX is a good product, smell awful but does a good job. Just to offer an alternative from the same shop, the Bilt Hamber version http://www.detailedclean.co.uk/engi...-1-litre-575?gclid=CMzK5ff4qrgCFdMQtAod33IAjQ


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

AndyA4TDI said:


> ... They will make such a difference.


Just to emphasise this point, all this cleaning effort will make the car look better


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> IronX is a good product, smell awful but does a good job. Just to offer an alternative from the same shop, the Bilt Hamber version http://www.detailedclean.co.uk/engi...-1-litre-575?gclid=CMzK5ff4qrgCFdMQtAod33IAjQ


Ok i am VERY scared this will ruin the paint work.

Do I literally spray on, and leave it for 5 minutes then jet wash off?

All these products, I am so scared I will ruin the paint work. Whats the chance?


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

If you are that worried don't use them, but the finish will not be as good, trust me. Your choice at the end of the day.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

AndyA4TDI said:


> If you are that worried don't use them, but the finish will not be as good, trust me. Your choice at the end of the day.


Any warnings, any advise before I use the product?


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

upcoming said:


> Ok i am VERY scared this will ruin the paint work.
> 
> Do I literally spray on, and leave it for 5 minutes then jet wash off?
> 
> All these products, I am so scared I will ruin the paint work. Whats the chance?


I have clayed and used Iron X many times on my car with no problems at all.


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

upcoming said:


> Any warnings, any advise before I use the product?


Just follow the instructions and all will be ok


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Anyway to remove brake dust also as shown?










larger image
http://oi44.tinypic.com/2r7blp0.jpg


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

Use the Iron X on your wheels.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> Just to emphasise this point, all this cleaning effort will make the car look better


You know what! Thats all I want and I really hope I see these results. Im more worried ill become crazy like you guys and spend thousands lol!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

AndyA4TDI said:


> Use the Iron X on your wheels.


Same Iron X as on paintwork? Will it remove the gunk on the disk breaks and break hubs?


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Bilt Hamber also do a wheel cleaner although the Korrosol will do a very good job at safely cleaning your wheels. IronX or any of the other similar products will also work well. You can also buy wheel sealants to keep the wheels looking nice and clean and generally just use soap and water to clean them. SRP/EGP also works well on wheels

Again, agree with AndyA4TDI, follow the instructions, always work with cool paint and everything will be fine


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Asda are doing 6 microfibre cloths for £1.50 at the moment if your on a budget


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> Bilt Hamber also do a wheel cleaner although the Korrosol will do a very good job at safely cleaning your wheels. IronX or any of the other similar products will also work well. You can also buy wheel sealants to keep the wheels looking nice and clean and generally just use soap and water to clean them. SRP/EGP also works well on wheels
> 
> Again, agree with AndyA4TDI, follow the instructions, always work with cool paint and everything will be fine


is this to remove the break dust of breaks and hubs?


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

jbhoo said:


> Asda are doing 6 microfibre cloths for £1.50 at the moment if your on a budget


Mate you are a SUPERSTAR!!!!!

Do these budget micro fibre clothes matter?? I dont wanna put all this effort in and getting more results due to the clothes I am using


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

And don't worry about asking questions or repeating yourself I do it all the time there is so much info on here to take in lol


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

jbhoo said:


> And don't worry about asking questions or repeating yourself I do it all the time there is so much info on here to take in lol


Goshhhh tell me about it!!! Im so glad I came here! Everyone is so helpful!


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

A wheel cleaner is mainly for the alloys but would also be safe on callipers and hubs. It is also possible to use some sealants on brakes but these are very fussy products which require quite a lot of prep. I have not used any of these so cannot talk from experience but mention them just to show how many options there are for nearly every part of the car


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> A wheel cleaner is mainly for the alloys but would also be safe on callipers and hubs. It is also possible to use some sealants on brakes but these are very fussy products which require quite a lot of prep. I have not used any of these so cannot talk from experience but mention them just to show how many options there are for nearly every part of the car


Ok cool with regards to Iron X.....Just to confirm....I spray it on the car....dont touch it wait 5-10 mins and jet wash it off?


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

I would not leave it on for that long, a couple of minutes works fine for me. Do not let Iron X dry on the paint under direct sun


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

upcoming said:


> Goshhhh tell me about it!!! Im so glad I came here! Everyone is so helpful!


There is a staggering wealth of knowledge on these forums with many people who will forget more than I will ever know.


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

I don't really know the answer to that but I do know its always popping up on here about asda/B&Q etc doing deals and I have seen a lot of people buying them, and it's worth looking how to clean them as well it will make them last longer


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

AndyA4TDI said:


> I would not leave it on for that long, a couple of minutes works fine for me. Do not let Iron X dry on the paint under direct sun


Just out of interest what happens if it drys on the paint work?



lowejackson said:


> There is a staggering wealth of knowledge on these forums with many people who will forget more than I will ever know.


I think the best bit is, everyone is so helpful!



jbhoo said:


> I don't really know the answer to that but I do know its always popping up on here about asda/B&Q etc doing deals and I have seen a lot of people buying them, and it's worth looking how to clean them as well it will make them last longer


Can anyone else help with this? Will any micro fibre one do? As JBHOO explained Asda doing 6 for £1.50 Dont want to spend hours doing all this work, but getting poor results due to clothes used!


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

No idea mate as I follow the instructions on the back of the bottle which say do not allow to dry on paint under direct sun.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

AndyA4TDI said:


> No idea mate as I follow the instructions on the back of the bottle which say do not allow to dry on paint under direct sun.


fair doos!


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

upcoming said:


> Just out of interest what happens if it drys on the paint work?


I would guess it would stain the paint and maybe need to be polished out. Cool panels, follow the instructions end with a good rinse and you will be fine. This forum is not full of people who have damaged their paint with IronX/Korrosol etc



upcoming said:


> Can anyone else help with this? Will any micro fibre one do? As JBHOO explained Asda doing 6 for £1.50 Dont want to spend hours doing all this work, but getting poor results due to clothes used!


No idea, not tried the ASDA ones. I find the supermarket cloths to be reasonable, they are not as soft or durable as the fancy ones but are generally safe. I use either a spray wax or QD when drying so the paint never sees a dry cloth, I find this really helps reduce swirls


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

upcoming said:


> Can anyone else help with this? Will any micro fibre one do? As JBHOO explained Asda doing 6 for £1.50 Dont want to spend hours doing all this work, but getting poor results due to clothes used!


There's a lot of snobbery about MF cloths, so ignore that. There is just one
rule of thumb with them. The _only_ time you use them dry is for buffing off
potions that you have applied to clean paint. At _all_ other times, you should at
least lightly dampen them. Plain water will do, but many people here will use a
quick detailing product because the polymers help with lubricating their way.

Buy as many MF cloths as you can. Aldi have packs of 3 different types with
2 in a box costing 99p. For your purpose, a couple of glass and several general
purpose cloths will be ideal. At some point, you can splash out on some posh
MF towels. Probably the best place to get them is from Serious Performance.
Their range covers almost every need and they're very reasonably priced.

One other point about MF cloths, always but always fold them into 4 and keep
the folding intact while you work. Not only does this provide a cushioning
effect, you also avoid applying uneven pressure. I'm mostly talking about the
standard 16cm x 16cm cloths, though with bigger towels I'd probably fold
those into halves or thirds. With them folded into 4 you will have 8 clear
sides that you can keep a close eye upon, avoiding any build-up of dirt.

Regards,
Steve


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

if costoco is near you and you're a member or know some one who is go and get yourself some from there


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

Lowiepete said:


> There's a lot of snobbery about MF cloths, so ignore that. There is just one
> rule of thumb with them. The _only_ time you use them dry is for buffing off
> potions that you have applied to clean paint. At _all_ other times, you should at
> least lightly dampen them. Plain water will do, but many people here will use a
> ...


sorry to disagree steve not all mf are the same that's from my personnel experience and i'm certainly no snob :thumb:


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

suspal said:


> if costoco is near you and you're a member or know some one who is go and get yourself some from there


Oh yes £10 for that massive pack !! Shall go tomorrow!!!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> There's a lot of snobbery about MF cloths, so ignore that. There is just one
> rule of thumb with them. The _only_ time you use them dry is for buffing off
> potions that you have applied to clean paint. At _all_ other times, you should at
> least lightly dampen them. Plain water will do, but many people here will use a
> ...


Thanks Steve! Will remember this, when I become sick like you guys lol


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> There's a lot of snobbery about MF cloths, so ignore that. There is just one
> rule of thumb with them. The _only_ time you use them dry is for buffing off
> potions that you have applied to clean paint. At _all_ other times, you should at
> least lightly dampen them. Plain water will do, but many people here will use a
> ...


Steve. Just re read, damp micro fibre clothes? Really? Thought you just use them as they are?!? I'm just an idiot always being doing that!!


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

suspal said:


> sorry to disagree steve not all mf are the same that's from my personnel experience and i'm certainly no snob :thumb:


I'm talking about the people who say that they'd only use cheap MFs on
wheels. Of course not all MF cloths are the same, but I've used cheap
Aldi cloths for over 4 years doing bucketless washing with ONR, with 
absolutely no ill effects...

Regards,
Steve


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

Lowiepete said:


> I'm talking about the people who say that they'd only use cheap MFs on
> wheels. Of course not all MF cloths are not the same, but I've used cheap
> Aldi cloths for over 4 years doing bucketless washing with ONR, with absolutely
> no ill effects...
> ...


I know what you mean steve


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

upcoming said:


> Steve. Just re read, damp micro fibre clothes?


Oh, absolutely! Have a read of Post #194 on this thread...

Basically, using dry cloths will help build up quite an electrostatic charge. The
dampening process helps reduce this. MF cloths are not just posh dusters. 
Don't worry, you aren't alone. I reckon that few people really understand the
technology, like it would interest them?

Regards,
Steve


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> Oh, absolutely! Have a read of Post #194 on this thread...
> 
> Basically, using dry cloths will help build up quite an electrostatic charge. The
> dampening process helps reduce this. MF cloths are not just posh dusters.
> ...


It is quite interesting tbh, the level of detail and care that goes into this. I am amazed and overloaded with tons of information loll


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Also guys...gonna use this to dry the car





Shall I use a sponge to wash the car with Autoglym Body Shampoo?

I normally apply polish with MF towels, this is correct right?

Will this come with enough clay?





As I clay the car, do I dry with a MF cloth?


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo not a sponge a wash mitt

use a drying towel for drying

more than enough clay


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

suspal said:


> nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo not a sponge a wash mitt
> 
> use a drying towel for drying
> 
> more than enough clay


Lol does a wash mitt and sponge make a big difference?

I thought the AG towel would be good enough. Can you link me to a drying towel? Sorry & thanks.

Btw how does this forum make money?!?


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

I can't answer the washing question...


upcoming said:


> I normally apply polish with MF towels, this is correct right?


Do you mean polishing or waxing - or both? Polishing with MF pads is quite
effective; just keep an eye on the cleaning surface and change or clean it
fairly frequently. For waxing, it's better to use a soft foam pad that's been
primed with a QD. One thing with wax, you need as thin a layer as you can
manage and dampening the pad to lubricate it helps achieve this. You'll be
much better off using swift, straight and light strokes than trying to work
it into the paint in circular motions.



upcoming said:


> As I clay the car, do I dry with a MF cloth?


No! Wash the car, then dry it. If you're use a clay bar lubricant, then you
can spray that over the area after claying and wipe with the MF cloth lightly 
dampened with same fluid. You won't get water spots as long as you avoid
plain water...

Regards,
Steve


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> I can't answer the washing question...
> 
> Do you mean polishing or waxing - or both? Polishing with MF pads is quite
> effective; just keep an eye on the cleaning surface and change or clean it
> ...


Basically I was under the impression; you spray AG rapid detailer on the paint work and rub the clay over it. Obs it's gonna be kinda went then dry with a MF.

AGAIN. Sorry I must sound like a total idiot & THANKS!


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

upcoming said:


> Can you link me to a drying towel?


Serious Performance site
Regards,
Steve


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> Serious Performance site
> Regards,
> Steve


Steve Thank you SIR!!!!!

This better all be worth it or I'm gonna be so depressed!!!


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

upcoming said:


> you spray AG rapid detailer on the paint work and rub the clay over it.


Almost... The way that I clay is to form a cage with my hand and let the bar
slide freely under it. There's absolutely no pressure applied. Of course, this
does mean applying liberal amounts of lubrication so that my hand slides freely
over the paint. The weight of the bar should be enough. This might take some
practice, so take your time getting some experience on the horizontal surfaces.

Make sure that the clay bar is nice and pliable. I dunk mine into a plastic jug
filled with warm to hot water. Claying is a very therapeutic experience; just
don't forget to regularly check it and always apply a clean side when you move 
to the next area, regardless of whether it looks clean or not...

Regards,
Steve


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> Almost... The way that I clay is to form a cage with my hand and let the bar
> slide freely under it. There's absolutely no pressure applied. Of course, this
> does mean applying liberal amounts of lubrication so that my hand slides freely
> over the paint. The weight of the bar should be enough. This might take some
> ...


Ok, now the lubrication simply evaporate with the clay or do you dry with a MF after?

Can you clean clay or throw away?

With the AG kit will it be enough for a MK5 golf 5 door?


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

upcoming said:


> Ok, now the lubrication simply evaporate with the clay or do you dry with a MF after?
> 
> Can you clean clay or throw away?
> 
> With the AG kit will it be enough for a MK5 golf 5 door?


1) Already answered your first Q - post #68
2) Throw it away.
3) Yes, 5 times or more over - depending on how grubby it is to start with.

Do you already have the gear?

Regards,
Steve


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> 1) Already answered your first Q
> 2) Throw it away.
> 3) Yes, 5 times or more over - depending on how grubby it is to start with.
> 
> ...


 Clean with hot water and soap?

Nope probs order on Monday for Tuesday delivery and start on Wednesday, seeing Wednesday will be cool in london!


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

upcoming said:


> Clean with hot water and soap?


In what context?



upcoming said:


> Nope probs order on Monday for Tuesday delivery and start on Wednesday, seeing Wednesday will be cool in london!


Then you could order alternatives from the SP site and save yourself some
serious dosh.

FK #146 is a perfect clay bar lubricant - also a damned good glass cleaner
SP does his own clay bars
The SP paint cleaner takes some beating too - I could go on, but I'll refer you
back to the Disabled Detailing thread (Post #194) I mentioned earlier instead. 
Saves me having to repeat type - my gammy hands and all that...

Have a look in the Review Section - several SP products reviewed there...

Don't worry, Finish Kare products easily rival anything from AG!

Regards,
Steve


----------



## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

top products :thumb:

http://www.seriousperformance.co.uk/Products,107.html


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Will look into this tomorrow feeling tired now. How much of a difference do the two products make?

Or shall I read through the other thread lol?


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

have a read of this thread i asked the question earlier today about the AG clay 
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=312878


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

upcoming said:


> Steve. Just re read, damp micro fibre clothes? Really? Thought you just use them as they are?!? I'm just an idiot always being doing that!!


hi steve i didn't know about the damp mf! so if i apply a polish, say srp should the cloth be damp first? or will the polish moisten it? and when i buff off the polish should that mf be damp?


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

jbhoo said:


> hi steve i didn't know about the damp mf! so if i apply a polish, say srp should the cloth be damp first? or will the polish moisten it? and when i buff off the polish should that mf be damp?


I would dampen... If you have dry areas around the SRP or paint cleaner,
then you risk micro-marring. MF cloths are _designed_ to be used with water.
That's when their cleaning qualities come to the fore. Us detailers use QD
cleaners, like ONR or FK #146, to avoid the creation of water spots, and to a
lesser extent improve the lubrication.

For buffing-off any potions, use a dry MF cloth. If wax has dried too hard, 
use a finishing QD, like FK#425 or SP Show Detailer, to ease removal. The 
_only_ time you do any rubbing is when polishing, and even then you must 
keep a close eye on any build-up of crud. Many paint cleaners contain no
abrasives so rubbing isn't essential, though you'll still get a crud build-up if
the paint is dirty or has old coatings on it.

At all other times, lightness of touch is key. Electrostatic charge isn't welcome,
especially on freshly waxed paint!

Regards,
Steve


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

upcoming said:


> How much of a difference do the two products make?


I'd be extremely surprised that you'd notice much difference at all. It isn't
so much the products but your techniques in using them.


upcoming said:


> Or shall I read through the other thread lol?


Well, not all the thread, but if you want a good read and several pointers,
then I'd recommend you start at post #124 on this page

That might take the mystery out using a few products for you, and give you
some goals for the future too - Enjoy!

Regards,
Steve


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> I would dampen... If you have dry areas around the SRP or paint cleaner,
> then you risk micro-marring. MF cloths are _designed_ to be used with water.
> That's when their cleaning qualities come to the fore. Us detailers use QD
> cleaners, like ONR or FK #146, to avoid the creation of water spots, and to a
> ...


cheers steve :thumb: just a quick question on the QD, i have another car with wolfs hard body on it so i use wolfs QD, on the car with srp can you recommend a cheap QD for use with MF or just to aid drying?


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

jbhoo said:


> on the car with srp can you recommend a cheap QD for use with MF or just to aid drying?


As both a QD and drying aid I'd go for ONR Wash & Shine - it's just so versatile. 
The only exception to that being that it isn't too good on nano-treated surfaces.
So don't expect it to behave in the same way on the Wolfs' treated paint.

As for a finishing QD, then I'd not cut corners with anything cheap as such.
Probably the best value for money in terms of finish and all round satisfaction
would be the Serious Performance Show Detailer. Get the bottle that makes a
US gallon; you can mix it stronger or weaker to your heart's content. It's the
only QD I've found that can be layered and there'll only be one word to describe
both the slickness and the shine. You won't be the first to go: Wow!

Regards,
Steve


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Right ordered C4 and W2 or what ever the cleaner is called last night 

With regards to alloys gonna use Iron X on them and clean with Wonder Wheels. What should I seal them with ?


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

upcoming said:


> Right ordered C4 and W2 or what ever the cleaner is called last night
> 
> With regards to alloys gonna use Iron X on them and clean with Wonder Wheels. What should I seal them with ?


i've not used it yet but getechniq C5 has got rave reviews on here, so thats what i will use the the time comes


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

upcoming said:


> Right ordered C4 and W2 or what ever the cleaner is called last night
> 
> With regards to alloys gonna use Iron X on them and clean with Wonder Wheels. What should I seal them with ?


Not used Wonder Wheels in 20 years although many say it is strong stuff. The Gtech W2, is that their APC if so it might do a good job at cleaning the wheels


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> Not used Wonder Wheels in 20 years although many say it is strong stuff. The Gtech W2, is that their APC if so it might do a good job at cleaning the wheels


Can I use HD Wax to seal the alloys ?


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Not used the AG wax although many say it is a highly durable wax so should work quite well. No doubt the Gtech would last longer but again not used it so I can only guess


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Gtechniq is expensive stuff! This has already home over my budget


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Do you currently have any products or are you starting from scratch. Whilst it is easy to spend a lot of money on products it is not always necessary


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> Do you currently have any products or are you starting from scratch. Whilst it is easy to spend a lot of money on products it is not always necessary


All I currently have is AG Body wash Shampoo and AG SRP!

Planning to buy AG HD Wax, AG Cleanser, AG Tar remover AG Clay and Iron X


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

If you wish to save a few Pounds then you could drop the HD Cleanser, use Extra Gloss Protection (approx £10) instead of the HD Wax (£30?). Not sure what AG charge for their clay kit but I think Bilt Hamber clay is around £13 and the Serious Performance clay is significantly cheaper. These will both equal the AG stuff, the BH clay just requires water, the Serious Performance products are always outstanding value for money. The AG Tar Remover may not be the best product in the world but it does work well


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

This is that total order, was going to use AG High Quality MF cloth for final Detailing.

Just seems to expensive! Am I getting ripped off?


----------



## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

> BH clay just requires water


Please dont give me virtual kicking here, but i had read that water was best used only on cars with very low contamination, unsure if that is true or not.
Ta!

James.


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Wow that is a lot of money. Do you need all of that stuff and as much as I like Autoglym products, do you wish to stick with mainly the AG range?


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

James Bagguley said:


> Please dont give me virtual kicking here, but i had read that water was best used only on cars with very low contamination, unsure if that is true or not.
> Ta!
> 
> James.


Not heard that one before, the paint must always be very clean i.e. freshly washed before claying and in the several years I have used BH clay I have not noticed any significant differences to using a normal clay and spray lubrication


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

Well, well, I'm not going to mince my words here. You're seeking advice, but
not taking too much notice of what you're being told. In a previous post you
said...


upcoming said:


> This better all be worth it or I'm gonna be so depressed!!!


...well, the way I read this, and I may be wrong, but that looks like it will be
a self-fulfilling prophecy. From the questions that you are asking, you are not
anywhere near ready to be brandishing your PayPal anywhere.

Let me give you an example. You've bought probably one of the most expensive
solutions possible and in the next breath you ask about a sealant for your
wheels. For the price of the HD wax you could buy a tin of FK #1000p (the
most popular wheel sealant here by a mile!) _and_ a tin of FK Pink Wax. You
can use the sealant on the whole car then top it with the Pink Wax and get
a depth of shine that will blow your mind. The two in combination will give 
you months and months of protection and shine.

One thing that you'll find very difficult to do here is find a cross word said
against either of the two products. The tins are absolutely huge, so they'll 
last and last. You are being given some good advice, but if you stay fixated
on the path that you're displaying, it _will_ cost you a bomb!

Just looking at the pictures of your car, I'm not even sure that IronX is really
necessary. If the wheels were coated in brake dust, maybe. If you don't do
a lot of motorway miles, involving a fair amount of high-speed braking, there
probably won't be much contamination on the paint.

Before you start claying, have you tried to plastic-bag test to see if the paint
really needs it? Seriously, if I were you, I'd resist the urge to spend and 
instead spend time looking closely at any evidence that comes with claims 
that people make. There are lots and lots of claims made that do need to be
taken with a pinch of salt.

It looks like you have a nice car, and the last thing I'd want is for you to get
all down-hearted just because you didn't listen to some good advice. The
whole point of this is for you to enjoy both the processes and the results.
The spending then becomes controlled and secondary.

Over to you...

Regards,
Steve


----------



## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

> Not heard that one before, the paint must always be very clean i.e. freshly washed before claying and in the several years I have used BH clay I have not noticed any significant differences to using a normal clay and spray lubrication


Sorry, firstly, dont want to pull the thread off topic, second, i dont want to seem like im lecturing anyone! i do agree a good wash is a must.
I was under the impression that, however good the wash stage was, it would not remove embedded contaminants. 
In respect of that, something with a greater degree of lubrication would reduce any chance of marring, more so with heavy contamination.

And to upcoming, Lowiepete seems to be giving you some good tips there, a certain well respected fellow (Junkman) always says "Technique trumps product 24/7"
Have a look for some (not necessarily expensive) products and get the hang of using them, you will get results!
Cheers!

James.


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> Not heard that one before, the paint must always be very clean i.e. freshly washed before claying and in the several years I have used BH clay I have not noticed any significant differences to using a normal clay and spray lubrication





Lowiepete said:


> Well, well, I'm not going to mince my words here. You're seeking advice, but
> not taking too much notice of what you're being told. In a previous post you
> said...
> 
> ...


Hello Steve,

Thank You for your kind words.

I understand what your saying. My car is 2006 reg with 70,000 odd miles on the lock. As its never had a detail done before, I was under the impression Iron X was a must ? I will research into this plastic bag test tomorrow and see how it goes.

So in a nut shell what you are saying is I am spending too much money on the products which I won't really need and theres no evidence to support it? Plus there other products out there which are cheaper and do a better job?

See for me personally, I find all this information mind blowing. I have looked into each and every product that I will order and I see there uses thus I was under the impression they are required to get that perfect finish, am I wrong?

You know this is all getting mind blowing and confusing now...might just leave it out...but I really want to do it.

If I do it, should I use the FK Pink Wax instead of HD Wax? Not only better results but clearly cheaper right?

Sorry if I sound like an idiot, but I am totally new to this and clearly its making me go :devil:

Sorry again, and thank you

EDIT: SO....FK #1000 to seal the alloys, and the paintwork after all the claying and polishing and then #FK Pink Wax final coat on the car?...just saw the prices works out cheaper then the AG HD Wax, and it would provide better results too ?



lowejackson said:


> Wow that is a lot of money. Do you need all of that stuff and as much as I like Autoglym products, do you wish to stick with mainly the AG range?


Hi and thanks for all your help again.

Indeed I do, 

The reason why I prefer AG and feel more comfortable with it is because its easier to understand. In the sense that each products states whats its for, and has videos on how to use. Yes the video are pointless I would call it common sense but I just find them easier to understand.

I dont know any other brand that is reputable thus I thought AG.

I am open to suggestions as Steve said FK Pink for polish?

EDIT: Just as a typical example, I was looking into BH Clay and they have three types.......how would I know what I need?!?


----------



## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

There's nothing wrong with Autoglym mate, they make decent products. Just because you might hear a few 'exotic' names doesn't mean they're better, it's what works that matters


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

DJ X-Ray said:


> There's nothing wrong with Autoglym mate, they make decent products. Just because you might hear a few 'exotic' names doesn't mean they're better, it's what works that matters


I'm getting really confused. Some people are saying I can do better with the money I'm spending. Your saying its a good shot. I'm looking at reviews and from my research most products are excellent but AG generally have more reviews out there IMHO then other products. Surly as a first timer AG would be the best call?

Can someone just summarise what to do! I'm so exited to get this started! I need husband and wife time with my car !


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

upcoming said:


> I'm getting really confused. Some people are saying I can do better with the money I'm spending. Your saying its a good shot. I'm looking at reviews and from my research most products are excellent but AG generally have more reviews out there IMHO then other products. Surly as a first timer AG would be the best call?
> 
> Can someone just summarise what to do! I'm so exited to get this started! I need husband and wife time with my car !


Hi I know what you mean it is mind blowing I'm the same ive been on here anout a month and can't take it all in at once so start simple I decided to do one process at a time, I started at the beginning, 'cleaning and polish) got myself 2 buckets grit guards wash mitts MF snowfoam and citrus prewash and drying towels ( B&Q doing 3 for 2 on wash mitts drying towels and MF) get your head round that for a few weeks and keep reading then move onto next stage ie de tar and iron x or wheels, if you research one stage at a time it's easier and not such and outlay all at once


----------



## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

Hi again, hope you are well.
Autoglym do indeed make good, easily available, easy to use products.
As above, get used to working with something, and you will get the results you want.

As for the Bilt Hamber clay, their website states:


> auto-clay is provided in regular, medium and soft grades. Regular for intensive cleaning of moderate to heavy contamination and / or summer use, soft clay is designed for more frequent and / or winter use and medium clay is suitable for all round use.


Hope that helps bud, all the best.


----------



## dave89 (Mar 12, 2013)

Totally agree with above.


Am I right in Saying that you use a sponge and one bucket to wash your car?

If so, the first thing you need to do is get this stage sorted.


----------



## Grin (Jun 13, 2012)

dave89 said:


> Totally agree with above.
> 
> Am I right in Saying that you use a sponge and one bucket to wash your car?
> 
> If so, the first thing you need to do is get this stage sorted.


This. Just don't buy that sponge.


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

I'm not the best at this but this is what have purchased over the last month as like I said its all to much to take in at once so I started with the wash process
2 buckets + grit guards
3 MF wash mitts ( B&Q 3 for 2)
3 MF drying towels B&Q
Loads of MF ( asda b&q all on offers)
Autobrite snowfoam lance ( already own a karcher)
Valet pro snowfoam
VP citrus pre wash
AB very cherry wheel cleaner
Wolfs nano bathe shampoo ( I have a new car with wolf HB on it so went with wolf product just for that car)
Wolfs quick detailer (as above)
AG SRP ( for other car) 
AG body shampoo (as above)
Envy detailing brushes
AB wheel brush ( free with very cherry)
Megs application foam pads x 4
Gtecnic G6 and G1
Various trigger and pump action spray bottles

I already had AG vinyl and rubber care and AG bumper care

So like I said that's just cleaning plus a few extras and I haven't even got onto clay, de tar ,contamination ,wax etc yet!! So take your time one step at a time and your be fine.


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Am I right in saying. There's thousands of products out there. And the best products it's basically an opinion? E.G. I'm an Apple fanboy. I have a Mac, iPhone, Apple TV the works....I wouldn't ever use any other notebook apart from a Mac, because it alloys me to do things quicker than a windows machine?

Or I only drink Tropicana Orange Juice because it's freshly squeezed and it's the best for the body, I'm very stubborn like that. Other people might say AG SRP is good but the AG Clay is rubbish?

They'd always go to BH Clay?


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

jbhoo said:


> I'm not the best at this but this is what have purchased over the last month as like I said its all to much to take in at once so I started with the wash process
> 2 buckets + grit guards
> 3 MF wash mitts ( B&Q 3 for 2)
> 3 MF drying towels B&Q
> ...


Have yoy clayed and used Iron X haven't seen it on the list?


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

Upcoming - what I'm saying is take this a stage at a time... First-off try and
perfect your washing and particularly drying skills. All the gear and no idea, 
will only grind you down by keeping you poor and wondering why you aren't
getting the results that you perceive.

Yeah, it's very easy to get your mind blown by some of the processes you 
see here. Some of them even leave me, as a seasoned enthusiast, feeling 
totally exhausted just reading of these antics! You can't become an expert 
overnight. However, it won't be much good you getting perfectly smooth 
paint if all you then do is inflict new swirls by poor washing and drying each
week.

I hadn't seen what you proposed to purchase before I posted my previous
reply. If you _are_ intent on spending that kind of money, then strike a deal
with one of the traders on here first. You'll probably get a much better deal 
than what I saw you getting for that money. £150 at one go really is not 
small beer!

In response to you seeking a keenly priced source of products, a couple of us 
have pointed you toward a source of some extremely good products. Even his
top of the range detailing kit gives you change from £100! We were all learners
once, but the best advice at this point is for you to read, mark, learn and
inwardly digest.

Then start practising what you've learned, trying different skills as you go. 
Some decent cleaning pads and wax applicators, a paint cleaner, and the 
two waxes I've already mentioned should mean a spend of around 50 quid.

That should set you on your way to getting some protection on the paint 
as a starting point. It'll take a bit of practice just in applying waxes. For 
example, you must be quite parsimonious with applying the FK#1000p, else
it's very hard work to buff off. It quite often amazes me how much effort
some people put into waxing; rubbing it in, in circles when light, brisk straight
strokes can often achieve a better effect with less than half the effort.

Then start thinking about products that help maintain the finish and/or deal
with ancilliaries like tyres, glass, trim and bits under the bonnet.

Once you have some experience of the basics, then progress to things like 
claying. That's an art in itself. Have a read of the guides and watch as many
videos as you can. Try and get to a point where you can tell whether or not
the advice being shown is safe and worth following. Once you get the hang 
of it, without inflicting damage, it can be almost as therapeutic as waxing.

One last point, there really isn't such a thing as better than this or that. It's
a source of conflicting information. Whether the shine from the Pink Wax on
top of FK #1000p is better than HD wax is a completely moot point. However,
I'd challenge anyone to say that the depth of shine of the FK combo isn't
very satisfying, because it clearly is!

Here's my evidence...









Above all, take your time and just enjoy all the new experiences...

Regards,
Steve


----------



## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

Me again ! Just read Steves post above, and re-read if you hit any lows! 
Im a noob here but its heart warming to see the lengths people go to help out someone in difficulty.
Check out Junkman 2000 on youtube, he's on here too (Junkman 2008) his videos were a great help to me.
You can hear some of his opinions on technique being more important than products, also, seeing some of the processes involved in washing, drying, claying and polishing.
Trust me, it really helps, takes some of the worry out of making a start, i just wish i had found him sooner!
Anyway, 1000p is great stuff, if youre short of time, easy on/off and decent results:








Not even any wax on top there!

P.S. If you do order some, it doesent actually say "1000p" anywhere on the tin, it has a big white shark on it though so thats the main clue !
All the best bud.


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Perhaps one of the lessons from this thread is it is very easy to spend money when it is not required and for every good product recommendation there are a huge number of excellent alternatives.

I am very glad I am not just starting out in the car cleaning world, in the olden days there was a handful of products to choose from. Most of them eg Klasse, Zaino etc needed to be ordered from the USA. These days there is a staggering choice and an overwhelming number of processes that can be used to clean a car.


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

upcoming said:


> Have yoy clayed and used Iron X haven't seen it on the list?


I haven't clayed or iron x or even detared yet that's next on my list, I have been looking over the last week or so and am going for bilt hamber regular clay, iron x and not sure about the de tar yet possibly AG


----------



## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

CarPro also make Trix which is iron x and tar x combined, still smells awful though!
I have some, and it seemed to shift some of the tar off my dads Mondeo, but we are talking major tar here, getting close to looking two tone.

The smaller spots dissolved, and the larger spots (very large, 2-4mm) were softened.

As for the iron removal difficult to tell, the product changes colour as it reacts with what it is dealing with, but on Ford Colorado red (/bitumen black !) it is harder to see.


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

jbhoo said:


> I haven't clayed or iron x or even detared yet that's next on my list, I have been looking over the last week or so and am going for bilt hamber regular clay, iron x and not sure about the de tar yet possibly AG


If you're going for the BH clay, purchase their "Autowheel" too. One of the
main things about using decontaminants, especially as this thread is aimed at
people new to detailing, is the health and safety aspect. While these products
are mainly harmless on paint, the same cannot be said for eyes or skin.

In my experience, the BH product is a tad safer to use than IX. At least when
I was spraying it, with my limited motor function, all of it was reaching the
wheels. The IX tended to dribble onto my gloves. Also, the smell of the BH
product is much more acceptable. Even so, don't cut corners on your own
personal protection. There is little to choose between them in terms of 
performance

Regards,
Steve


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Lowiepete said:


> If you're going for the BH clay, purchase their "Autowheel" too. One of the
> main things about using decontaminants, especially as this thread is aimed at
> people new to detailing, is the health and safety aspect. While these products
> are mainly harmless on paint, the same cannot be said for eyes or skin.
> ...


Cheers Steve , it's the first I've heard of the BH auto wheel, I was going to use the ix to decontaminate the paint work so is the bh auto wheel a wheel cleaner that can be used on paint? If this is the case can other wheel cleaners be used in the same way as I have some VP very cherry wheel cleaner? I also have a bottle of original wonder wheels?

Cheers 
John


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Guys.

Products ordered.
Detailing Wednesday.

Have taken EVERYONES advise on board and came to an educated, logical solution!

Not going to say what I'm using just yet 😁

Will post results on Wenesday will have lost of before and after shots.

Will LOVE the feedback!


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

If the heat wave is going to continue then I would get up very early to do the car. Most products become quite hard to work with when the car is hot


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> If the heat wave is going to continue then I would get up very early to do the car. Most products become quite hard to work with when the car is hot


Apparently its going to be cloudy on Wednesday....hopefully this is true!!! Took the day off work. If very hot and direct sunlight I shouldn't do it right?


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

Hi John,


jbhoo said:


> I was going to use the ix to decontaminate the paint
> work so is the bh auto wheel a wheel cleaner that can be used on paint?


Yes... I suggested it as you are already going for one BH product. One way to
keep costs down is to save on postage wherever you can. There's a review
of Autowheel in the DW Review section.

Regards,
Steve


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

upcoming said:


> ... If very hot and direct sunlight I shouldn't do it right?


Just get up at Dawn (approx 05.00) and you should be fine  Direct sunlight with hot panels is just going to be a miserable experience


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

lowejackson said:


> Just get up at Dawn (approx 05.00) and you should be fine  Direct sunlight with hot panels is just going to be a miserable experience


Haha! 5am?!? Waking my neighbours up with the noise of jet wash and waking my house hold up with noise?!? I don't think so!

Do you thinking starting in the evening would be ok 7pm? It's 6:30 now and the sun is pointing directly at the side of my car  Wednesday please be cloudy!!!


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Good luck for weds


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

*Guys last questions promise!*

This is the steps I will be doing


Rinse
Wash with shampoo 
Iron X
Rinse
Tar Remover
Rinse...maybe?
Clay
AG HD Cleanser
Polish
Wax

Please confirm this is correct.

There has been an awful contribution to this thread, and all for people helping me.

I have never appreciated something so much!

Thank You very much, from the bottom of my heart, and I really do hope I make you proud with the before and after shots and information on the products i've chosen!

Wednesday BRING IT ON!!!! SOOOO EXCITED! CAN'T SLEEP and its on Tuesday Morning :'(

:wave:


----------



## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

To do list looks fine to me, best of luck with it, looking forward to the results.


----------



## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Maybe just a pre wash before shampoo ? I have VP citrus wash and was amazed who much crap it takes off. Good luck


----------



## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

Pre wash! good thinking! i have had some VP for ages and didnt use it until Sunday.
It had been too long since i last washed the car, worked well removing the stubborn crud.


----------



## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Guys,

What's a pre wash? That's not the same as rinsing ?


----------



## bigbadjay (May 29, 2012)

Snow foam or wax safe tfr if there is such a thing


----------



## spookyZeus (Apr 2, 2013)

Hi,
Sounds like you need to think/understand about the stages generally involved in detailing the exterior and why you might use them.

1) Pre washes
2) Wash
3) Decontamination 
4) Paint correction
5) Paint protection

Take a look here for some top tips and ideas:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=50574
I found this vey handy myself

And have fun:thumb:

N.B: You still have to think about the following:
Glass
Rubber seals
Plastic trim
Chrome


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## deano93tid (May 8, 2013)

upcoming said:


> *Guys last questions promise!*
> 
> This is the steps I will be doing
> 
> ...


I would go for tar removal prior to Iron X.


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## ImDesigner (Jan 19, 2012)

deano93tid said:


> I would go for tar removal prior to Iron X.


Why's that?


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## danwel (Feb 18, 2007)

definately keep step 6 in as it will need washing after Tar Remover. i recently did my car with a full decon and was

1-wash/rinse/dry
2-tar remover
3- wash/rinse/dry
4-fallout remover
5-Wash/rinse/dry
6-Clay
7-Wash/rinse/dry
8- Polish by DA
9- IPA Wipedown
10 - Wash/rinse/dry
11- AF Rejuvenate
12- Wax

It was quite a lot of time and effort but worth it in the end, althoug it is covered in tar now and i need some more tar remover as mine has ran out


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## deano93tid (May 8, 2013)

ImDesigner said:


> Why's that?


Iron X removes fall out etc and fall out can be behind Tar.


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

upcoming said:


> Guys,
> 
> What's a pre wash? That's not the same as rinsing ?


Someone just posted that Sainsbury are selling demon power rapid dirt shifter half price, if you need a pre wash for tomorrow morning, I know it's not well thought of on here but if you need it quick it will do a job


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

jbhoo said:


> Someone just posted that Sainsbury are selling demon power rapid dirt shifter half price, if you need a pre wash for tomorrow morning, I know it's not well thought of on here but if you need it quick it will do a job


Great. I will pop down and see if I can get one! What do I do with it exactly haha! Will research into it tonight thanks!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

spookyZeus said:


> Hi,
> Sounds like you need to think/understand about the stages generally involved in detailing the exterior and why you might use them.
> 
> 1) Pre washes
> ...


Thanks looked into this. Got all the chrome / plastic trim / ruber seals on lock down !

*GUYS! GOD BLESS YOU ALL! SO HELPFUL!*


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## crosscyl (May 7, 2011)

Anyone for B&Q White Spirit for tar remover ?!?


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

crosscyl said:


> Anyone for B&Q White Spirit for tar remover ?!?


Not sure if your being serious 😳


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## crosscyl (May 7, 2011)

upcoming said:


> Not sure if your being serious 😳


It sure does the job...

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=265037


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Yep...its too hot to detail today! Saturday should be cooler ....got I got more days for research!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

crosscyl said:


> It sure does the job...
> 
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=265037


I rather use tar remover, its a specific product. Safe to use on paint work....god knows that White Spirt could do!


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## crosscyl (May 7, 2011)

upcoming said:


> Yep...its too hot to detail today! Saturday should be cooler ....got I got more days for research!


You know what, I research stuff for months before I do anything :lol:.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

So I haven't started yet the sun!! Might start about 6pm it's light till about 9pm....not sure 3 hours is enough and don't wanna rush it either!


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

get the other things done while it's still hot and pull your finger out,you been on about it all last week :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

suspal said:


> get the other things done while it's still hot and pull your finger out,you been on about it all last week :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:


Ok

So EXCITED OMGGGGGGGGG


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

photo's please before and after :thumb:


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Did you sort out your pre wash ?


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Just one thing about doing it late in the eve, I have the daughters car a quick clean the other night and just as it started getting dark but still a lot of light I started polishing with srp by the time I had done the roof I think the air got a bit damp and made the polish go funny, like hazy and couldn't buff it off very well, it seemed ok the next day but is this a common problem with moisture? It wasn't heavy like a dew it just seemed like the polish attracted the moisture in the air, 
Any ideas?


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Guys! I'm so tired, sweating like a pig....*** break. It's been two hours. Washed, shampoo, iron x so far including alloys
Feels like I done so much but clearly haven't everyone came out on the street due to the disgusting smell of Iron X!


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## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

Keep at it, tomorrow morning, the sunlight glinting off your work will be your reward... or something :thumb:! 
Yeah Trix stinks too! good luck bud, it will be worth it.


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Same as , keep at it!! it's been going on so long I'm starting to will you on myself lol don't forget pics and good luck


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

God bless clay. My car feels like sex 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍

*** over back to detailing !!


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

ain't you done yet  :lol::lol::lol:


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## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

^:lol: Seriously bud, take your time, get up early for another sesh if you need to.


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG

MY CAR LOOKS POLISHED AND WAXED!!

JUST FINISHED CLAYING!!!

OK *PROBLEM*

Too dark now....so shall I just Shampoo the car tomorrow, and then start with Polish / Wax?

Or shall I Shampoo the car tomorrow then Clay, Polish & Wax?

THANKS!!

OMG!!! ITS SO CLEAN WITHOUT POLISH AND WAX FML!!! CLAY!!!

I LOVE YOU ALL


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

Well done! What clay did you go for in the end?


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## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

If you have already clayed, then shampoo, polish, and wax... ...and enjoy !


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## bazz (May 15, 2007)

looks like the car has plenty of tlc from the pics fella keep it up


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

James Bagguley said:


> If you have already clayed, then shampoo, polish, and wax... ...and enjoy !


Got too dark..

Gonna rewash, it today then polish, and wax will reclay too wanna make sure I got everything out...I have missed a few spots being new to this!

Can't wait


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

bazz said:


> looks like the car has plenty of tlc from the pics fella keep it up


I just clayed the car, and atomically it looks so much better than the pictures!

Cant wait to finish and upload pics today!

THanks for support!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

So woke up today, going to shampoo, reclay then polish wax the car as I couldnt finish it yesterday.

Right....so the pics below are with the car with the work I did yesterday
Shampoo, Iron X, Clay...considering there is no Polish or Wax..I think the outcome is amazing...ive honestly never seen my car so clean!!!

Its literally a near mirror finish, and the reflection...is super!!!

Thank You Guys!!





click to enlarge


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

James Bagguley said:


> If you have already clayed, then shampoo, polish, and wax... ...and enjoy !


Will tell with a final write up of all the pics


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## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

Awesome, feels good doesent it? congratulations, look forward to the write up!


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

James Bagguley said:


> Awesome, feels good doesent it? congratulations, look forward to the write up!


Planning to do an easy for people new like myself as I have learnt a lot during the process. Just applied wax letting it bond then gonna wipe off! So excited! People crowding around my car talking. I hope no one is hating!!


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## dread (Apr 30, 2010)

The only thing they probably hate is that there car does not look as good as yours.

Fill your boots. :thumb:


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!! I MEAN IT! Wow I mean...I'm speechless.

Full write up tomorrow, need a shower, ***, and a cuppa to relax and unwind!!! Midnight cruise!!!!


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

Well worth the effort,just means you'll have to keep on top of it,which means it'll be a breeze next time round.
A tap on the back is deserved :thumb:


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

So I did a write up with pictures...everything looking lovely then bang the forum crashes and looses all my data!

Gonna do one again during the week!!!

Car still GLEEEEEEMING!!!

EDIT:

Sorry been in and out of the country those of you who are waiting for a write up. I will make it short and simple!

So I have learnt a lot from this forums and during the actual detailing process. The most important lesson I learnt that you do not need to spend stupid amounts of money to get results.

E.G. I was not too sure how clay works and was worried about pealing my car paintwork off as it seemed like a dangerous product. I went with AG Clay Kit for £20 although its excellent I could of use BH Clay for only a tenner!!

Anyway its been nearly 3 months since this thread?

I washed my car the other day, and topped up the wax with AG Aqua Wax and the results are still stunning 

See pics!!









Water Sheeting









*
Would LOVE your feedback!! THANKS EVERYONE !!​*


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## James Bagguley (Jul 13, 2013)

Looking good :thumb: getting the lingo down "topped up with this and that" :lol:

Glad to hear you are enjoying it and got past those initial nerves.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Great work :thumb:


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## JMorty (Apr 25, 2011)

What a fab thread here. It's like a learning progress thread! :thumb: Well done on the results man! Keep it up


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## b9rgo1234 (May 3, 2009)

Looking good :thumb:


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

Thanks All! 

Oh how I love this new hobby ;D


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## jbhoo (Jun 2, 2013)

great thread really enjoyed your process of learning and i'm sure it helped a lot of us. well done nice looking car :thumb:


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## upcoming (Jul 12, 2013)

jbhoo said:


> great thread really enjoyed your process of learning and i'm sure it helped a lot of us. well done nice looking car :thumb:


Thanks :thumb:

I hope it really does help people, but I do have one bad thing about detailing. This hobby can become a strong addiction and can cost huge amounts of money.

Yes it ruined my social life too :lol:


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