# Will I have damaged my paint - Megs 16 applied loads!



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

Hey guys, 

My arm is currently in absoute tatters! :buffer:

SRP'd my car last week and thought i'd seal it off today with some Megs 16. Took me about 30 mins to apply it to the whole car, by the time i'd finished the bonnet had the white haze as per the back of the tin which I was to buff off. 

After going through 4 MF cloths, and eventually discovering my autogylm perfect polishing cloth (think the waffle style weave may be more aggresive?) made it a little bit easier the car was done. Only took 5 hours to get it all off :devil:

Now I had to use some real force on the cloth to get the white haze residue off the paintwork, more force than i would have liked, the stuff was an absolute nightmare, even got the missus involved! Even after the paint was starting to shine again there were still tiny lines everywhere which needed yet further buffing. - could I have damaged the paint through excess force? or is the force by hand no where near what a mechanic buffer would put down? i'm always very light handed when washing car with noodle fibre and removing SRP so I was quite concerned how hard I had to buff.

I'm still not happy with the bonnet as there are several marks where I can see the wax direction where i dragged it in straight lines :wall: will this come off as the wax wears away?

There were points where i was thinking about snow foaming the car to get it off and start again with SRP - though i didn't think this would have worked.

While i'm at it can anyone reccomend a polish on wax which doesn't need buffing afterwards and gives a nice gloss layer of protection?


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Unfortunately you have found the hard way. By the sounds of it.
#16 should be applied very thinly almost transparent on the paint work, and never on warm paint work.

Again the secret is to apply this ultra thin and only a few panels at a time. #16 does not require long to set up.

You might have caused damage to your finish by rubbing to hard. But this will become apparent through time.

If you fall foul in the future reapply the product and do not allow to set. Buff of straight away. This will soften the cured layer and still leave enough on the car to protect.
The solvents in the wax will soften the cured layer and aid removal.
Gordon.


----------



## Olly1 (Feb 21, 2010)

must have applied it too thick. A little goes a long way. Half a twist in the tin will almost do close to one side (depending on size of car).


Hardly used any on my car last weekend and it was very easy to buff off.


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

Heres the pics, before I did the lower body parts 

What sort of damage could i have done? swirls etc?


----------



## SBerlyn (Nov 9, 2008)

Sheeeesh that's FAR too much!


----------



## dohc-vtec (Mar 19, 2010)

Yeah thats wayyyy to thick, apply it very thinly just enough so you can see that the area is covered

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd163/deanoecosse/waxonwing.jpg


----------



## 2oh6 (Apr 23, 2009)

Wow how often are you on here? :lol:


----------



## spursfan (Aug 4, 2009)

You must have arms like Popeye:lol:

Kev


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

not often enough it seems LOL

my forearms look like they've took part in words strongest man!


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

dodge77 said:


> not often enough it seems LOL
> 
> my forearms look like they've took part in words strongest man!


Do not worry M8.
Its so easy for people to mock. But not many will own up either. 

We live and learn as they say.

And I think you have learnt the hard way and probably painful also.
Gordon.


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

the results,


----------



## Olly1 (Feb 21, 2010)

The results are looking pretty good 

Not that you really want to hear, but its actually a really good wax so if you can, then stick with it.

When your amrs recover try 2 pannels at a time. Make sure you apply in the shade and then by the time you have applied to the second pannel, buff off the first. I use a SN buffing cloth and it comes off pretty easy. Remember, hardly use any (to the point where you wonder if your using any at all).


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

Olly1 said:


> The results are looking pretty good
> 
> Not that you really want to hear, but its actually a really good wax so if you can, then stick with it.
> 
> When your amrs recover try 2 pannels at a time. Make sure you apply in the shade and then by the time you have applied to the second pannel, buff off the first. I use a SN buffing cloth and it comes off pretty easy. Remember, hardly use any (to the point where you wonder if your using any at all).


I was surprised how poor the MF cloths were at getting the initial bite into the haze compared with the AG polishing cloth which was great at leaving little white bits of cotton everywhere apart from speeding up the removal.

Unless anyone can suggest an alternative thats not as fussy (srp removal ease wax product) i may stick with it and try one twist of foam applicator in mags per panel.

Is it best to apply with circular motions and then straighten out into lines, or simply coat panel circular and then buff when returning to that panel?


----------



## spursfan (Aug 4, 2009)

Looks Good, bet you wont put it on so thick next time.:thumb:

Kev


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

How about SRP finished with Optimum Opti-Seal?


----------



## GMToyota (Mar 14, 2010)

Opti-Seal is supposed to be very easy to use. Wipe on, Walk away. You could also try Poorboy's Natty's paste wax, which comes off very easy, even after thick application or curing for too long. 
If you want something better, I can fully recommend Raceglaze 55. Very easy to spread, very easy to wipe off and better durability than Natty's and probably also Opti-seal.

If this happens again, one tip you already have: apply same product and wipe off immediately. The second tip that could work: spray some detailing spray and use that to wipe the wax off. 

I can mock and laugh about how thick you've spread it (that's REALLY thick btw), but I'm the one who forgot about wiping off Collinite 915 from my passengerside door. I only saw it the next day and I know how your arms feel.


----------



## Jordan (Dec 22, 2008)

looks good man, i know how it feels trying to get it off

i put some simoniz stuff on by hand the day before the fife meet, needless to say it was too thick, clay, apc, towels, wouldnt do anything.

i ended up having to use tar remover and clean the whole car again :|

live and learn eh?


----------



## scottgm (Dec 27, 2009)

I caked it on the first time i used it, what a struggle it was to remove.

Thin even spread is the way to go!


----------



## Nosbusa (Jun 22, 2009)

Yeah, that is way too much.. If this ever happens again instead of rubbing for 5hrs, just wash the car again and start over. Especially if the whole car is caked in thick wax.

You may have to use a strong shampoo, but it should take off the thick wax. 

I applied Victoria red wax too thick one time just to see what would happen (it was only one panel).. I could've just applied some more wax to take it off, but I used CG's citrus wash & clear, and it cut through the wax with ease.

BTW as thick as you had the wax, it may last for years. lol


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

Thanks for all the tips guys 

Whats everyones thought on the blue version of Natty's?

http://poorboysworld.com/natty-blue.htm

Where there are still a couple of wax marks on the bonnet (direction lines from how the wax dried) would i be best to reapply some more megs 16 today and buff off again soon after - or leave it until i next wash and use some SRP on it?


----------



## tamandlee (Mar 14, 2010)

I would try thin megs 16 and failiing that SRP the panel and reapply the megs 16. Obviously you will want to wash it first to remove and dirt etc. 

Your car looks like my dads did one Fathers day years ago when I decided to treat him to a car washing lol. He spent the whole of that day and most of the next trying to get it off while I hid!! Hee Hee Happy days!!


----------



## rockape (Feb 18, 2007)

i would use a paint cleaner to strip the bonnet, then reapply the 16 thinly and in over lapping circular motion. and buff straight away.hth.


----------



## Han5y (Sep 23, 2009)

dodge77 said:


> Thanks for all the tips guys
> 
> Whats everyones thought on the blue version of Natty's?
> 
> http://poorboysworld.com/natty-blue.htm


Nattys blue is a lovely wax, easy to apply, easy to remove. And it give a beautyful shine on the carpaint. Its cheap aswell


----------



## tamandlee (Mar 14, 2010)

oh and I nearly forgot but someone in the personal sales section is selling natty paste wax for a fiver i think, could be worth a look but its not blue its white


----------



## hutchingsp (Apr 15, 2006)

Been there done that with Collinite 476 and Victoria Wax and it was bloody hard work on a small sports car, I can only imagine being faced with a saloon.

I can only echo what others have said, you want a layer so thin that until it hazes you're not actually sure you're applied any.


----------



## Stevoraith (Mar 15, 2008)

Don't bother buying something else, learn to use the #16 properly and then if you still can't get on with it buy something else if you feel you need to.

Gordon (Caledonia) showed me how to apply #16 properly and I'm glad he did otherwise I probably would have ended up doing the same as you.
I didn't believe how little you needed to apply and how far it spreads.
Also, as someone else said, it doesn't need long to cure so coat two panels then go back and remove from the first, coat a third, remove from the second and so on.

Honestly, try it again before spending money on something else.


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

Are MF cloths usually sufficient when wax is applied properly? just i can pick them up dirt cheap. Don't fancy paying AG perfect polishing cloth money again!



hutchingsp said:


> Been there done that with Collinite 476 and Victoria Wax and it was bloody hard work on a small sports car, I can only imagine being faced with a saloon.
> 
> .


Its worse than that its an estate! :doublesho


----------



## Leemack (Mar 6, 2009)

At the end of the day mate, detailing is about learning from mistakes and then applying your knowledge to the next job.

It's easy for people to sit there mocking as already stated.

You did it but won't again - Simples


----------



## hutchingsp (Apr 15, 2006)

dodge77 said:


> Are MF cloths usually sufficient when wax is applied properly? just i can pick them up dirt cheap. Don't fancy paying AG perfect polishing cloth money again!


I use some old "dftowel" towels which have quite a "nap" on them - they seem to do a very good job of removing residue.

Personally I've found that really plush MF's make it a bit difficult to remove wax, they almost grab a little too well.

I wouldn't shy away from sticking with the Meguiars either, it's meant to be very durable and tbh you'd have had the same problem with almost any wax if you'd used that much - I know when I did it with Victoria wax I'd applied it using my fingers (literally) and there were areas that felt like they were set from concrete.


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

Its started raining, managed to grab some pics of the bead from my "excessive" application :lol:


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

Forgot to ask, what is the preferable bead - loads of tiny ones or larger? 

If there is such a thing LOL :detailer:


----------



## mcbunny (Jul 17, 2006)

i did similar to my car this weekend with valetpro house wax i just had no idea how much to put on ! so did it till i was sure i could see it was done. end result was i was incredibly tired and burnt lol

but hey ill do it properly next time lol

but this was my beading


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

I think i'll give the megs 16 another bash 

I've been really impressed how clean the car seems to have kept itself, its almost as if dust isn't sticking to the car as easily :speechles

The other impressive attribute is when the sun shines on the paintwork, it looks stunning - can see all the little metalic flakes in the black paintwork, along with a real mirror glaze. 

Only other purchase i'll be making is some optimum optiseal to use after my normal washes.


----------



## PWOOD (Apr 30, 2007)

Mine arrived yesterday so tried it out today. Wash, BH clay (caused mild marring on a panel) SPR which sorted then onto the main event. I put it on very thin and after second panel wiped it off with ease. I could feel the mf cloth grip a tad so can only imagine how hard it would be if put on thick and left any time. I was struggling with the sun being out but a mildly warm panel produced no issues. For the money it's a real bargain and one I would never have known about unless I was a DW regular so thanks guys :thumb:


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

This weekend i'll be SRPing my bonnet which has the remaining wax lines, and then rewaxing. 

Just so I get this right! Would one twist of a foam MF applicator in the megs tin be enough wax for half a bonnet? Then once i've done the full bonnet buff the first half?

Finally is it best applied in circular motion and then straightened out, or left thinly circled?!


----------



## killash (May 3, 2010)

If all else fails just stick a wick on the roof and use it as a candle...

I'd like to say I've never done it but I have and with Megs #16 so we've all been there...

nice car though


----------



## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

+1 on the Natty's, great wax that shoots well above it's price tag imo:thumb:


----------



## SouthernStyles (May 31, 2010)

That must have been fun! You live and you learn no worries!


----------



## badly_dubbed (Dec 11, 2008)

dont give up on the 16  its an excellent wax


----------



## dodge77 (Sep 19, 2009)

dodge77 said:


> This weekend i'll be SRPing my bonnet which has the remaining wax lines, and then rewaxing.
> 
> Just so I get this right! Would one twist of a foam MF applicator in the megs tin be enough wax for half a bonnet? Then once i've done the full bonnet buff the first half?
> 
> Finally is it best applied in circular motion and then straightened out, or left thinly circled?!


any advice on the above? need to know for the morning :thumb:


----------

