# Iron Out and Wonder Wheels are pants



## rik1301 (Jan 23, 2018)

Hello. I asked for recommendations on a well known motoring forum for what to use to remove medium to heavy brake dust from the alloy wheels on my Focus ST. I was assured that Iron Out or Wonder Wheels would both perform the task with ease . The truth of the matter is that both are absolutely garbage for anything more than a light dusting and neither product will touch the baked on blobs in the corners of the spokes, nor the black stain lines, and this is with copious amounts of agitation with an old toothbrush too.

Is there anything stronger available before I have to go buy a tub of brick acid? I see from some searching that Bilt Hamber Korrosol gets mentioned quite a lot but user reviews are rather mixed with the majority saying it's comparable strength to Iron Out, which is simply not gonna cut it.

I'd particularly welcome comments from professional detailers that will experience customer cars where the wheels have been neglected for years and will be in a similar state. Thanks.


----------



## Sam6er (Apr 3, 2016)

Bilthamber autowheels is what you need. I am surprised that wonder wheels didnt touch it though. Korrosol is for paintwork mainly and autowheels is specifically for wheels


----------



## euge07 (Jan 15, 2011)

following-

also interested in what would remove totally ground in brake dust from wheels,


----------



## Lexus-is250 (Feb 4, 2017)

As above Bilt Hamber auto wheel. Korrosol is a slightly different product and has different uses. Never used a wheel cleaner that cleans as well. 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## shine247 (Mar 1, 2010)

Sam6er said:


> I am surprised that wonder wheels didnt touch it though. Korrosol is for paintwork mainly and autowheels is specifically for wheels


So am I, WW is often referred to as brick acid on here but is very effective when used at the right times. I suspect the OP has used WW Hot Wheels which is also good but perhaps not strong enough on the wheels. 
Could be the surface has already been compromised if WW standard failed.


----------



## Nanoman (Jan 17, 2009)

I'm assuming the OP is a troll... but just in case. 

If Iron Out and Wonder Wheels are being used properly (following the instructions), and not making a difference. You need a refurb.


----------



## bigbruiser (Apr 16, 2016)

Nanoman said:


> I'm assuming the OP is a troll... but just in case.
> 
> If Iron Out and Wonder Wheels are being used properly (following the instructions), and not making a difference. You need a refurb.


Yup this, while i like BH AW it not going to be shift anything more then these 2 of what sounds like a neglected wheel


----------



## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

This thread is useless without pics - but it does sound like the OP may have unrealistic expectations of the capabilities of wheel cleaners in general.


----------



## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

Nanoman said:


> I'm assuming the OP is a troll... but just in case.
> 
> If Iron Out and Wonder Wheels are being used properly (following the instructions), and not making a difference. You need a refurb.


I'm beginning to think that too, I've been using Iron out for a number of years and I've had no problems at all, it's a pretty good product IMO.


----------



## dholdi (Oct 1, 2008)

Brick acid should shift it.


----------



## huxley309 (Apr 8, 2006)

Sounds like your wheels are pitted to buggery.


----------



## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

The original wonder wheels is excellent stuff, and very strong indeed. A combination of that, Iron Out and tar remover should be able to handle anything on a wheel. Perhaps a refurb is needed. A few pics would be good to see. 

It's a bizarre first post I'll admit that. 

Cooks 

Sent from my Wenger 16999


----------



## dave- (Nov 8, 2012)

Both iron X and wonder wheels garbage ?

They make my 11 year old alloys look like new.

Cuts through awful black crap


----------



## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

Cookies said:


> ....The original wonder wheels is excellent stuff, and very strong indeed.....


+1

It can bring near miraculous results on neglected wheels, but not to be used on the pride and joy tho ....


----------



## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

Depends how bad the contamination build up is and what version of wonder wheels you are using?

An educated guess assuming you aren't a troll is grab some KKD devils juice. It dilutes up to 1:4 and will cut through serious build ups of metal contaminates that fallout removers like iron x and auto wheel struggle with. If that doesn't cut it just strengthen the solution until it does and remember to use a chemical resistant trigger.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## rik1301 (Jan 23, 2018)

Enough with troll accusations please gentlemen, really no need for that. 

The facts of the matter is that the products are simply not up to the job. Admittedly the Wonder Wheels one was called Hot Wheels or something along those lines but that was the one I was told to get to make light work of cleaning them up. The other is definitely Auto Finesse Iron Out as I'm looking at the bottle here.

As I've said, they're fine for a light dusting but they just won't touch any hardened on bits. This pic has about a week's worth of muck on since I'd cleaned it but you can clearly see the hardened on lumps. I may as well have just sprayed water on it for all the good they did.

https://i.imgur.com/kbzmmXA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/D2dv574.jpg

Typical pic of how atrocious the wheels are for retaining brake dust.

https://i.imgur.com/Ri1b7jG.jpg

That's about 3 weeks since it was last cleaned and contrary to what you might be thinking I'm actually a smooth driver and only brake if I need to. It's just normal build up from mostly rural driving. Never had brake dust retention anything like this on my previous cars.


----------



## macca666 (Mar 30, 2010)

I think the troll accusations were made given that is was your first post with no real introduction of yourself and you've jumped straight in to slate two well known products which have proven to work in the past.

Looking at your pictures that is some severe contamination. From what you've described I'd agree the WW that you've used wouldn't work you need to use the original version which is Wonder Wheels super alloy cleaner and can be found in most places like here...

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/wheel-tyre-cleaning/wonder-wheels-500ml

This is not for regular use IMO but with the amount of contamination you'll need something strong. Just be careful as it is potent stuff I've used it previously without any issues but I believe it is acid based so can damage corroded or damaged wheels but from what you say you've nothing to lose.

Looking at your wheels it looks as if you'll need multiple hits I'd also suggest fallout remover and tar remover to remove everything and possibly claying and to bring your wheels back may take a combination of a few if not all. I use Bilt Hamber Autowheel for my fallout, not used AF iron out so can't comment on it, and Autosmart tardis for my tar remover all of which I rate highly.

As I say looking at your wheels they are pretty bad so won't be an easy job but with some work should remove most if not all.

Good luck and if you're not trolling make sure you post finished pics up


----------



## Nanoman (Jan 17, 2009)

What method are you using? I.e. applying dry or wet? on the car or off the car? how much you applying? Dwell time? Etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

As macca has said, I use three separate products for wheels, Valet Pro Dragon's Breath (or any decent) fallout remover, Autosmart Tardis tar remover, and an acidic wheel cleaner - I use Autosmart Smart wheels. 

The wonder wheels hot wheels definitely doesn't have the same bite as the original stuff. You should notice a huge difference if you go for a different wheel cleaner. 

One thing I'd advise is to get a coating on the wheels. That way, even after 3 weeks, a good wash will remove any traces of dirt and brake dust. Some of the guys have had great success with Fk1000p, Wowos Crystal Sealant or the likes of a coating like Carpro dlux. Personally I used Wolf's Bodyguard on mine, and have never had to use anything except soapy water to clean them. 

Good luck, hopefully you'll get sorted. Post a few pics of the finished result when you do. 

Cheers

Cooks 

Sent from my Wenger 16999


----------



## Mcpx (Mar 15, 2016)

First it has to be said that fallout remover is not specifically a wheel cleaner, it is only meant to remove iron contamination that other cleaners don’t address, but is often used on wheels as brake dust also contains iron particles which then obviously accumulated on the wheels and lower parts of the car. Fallout remover will not however, have any effect on the rest of the brake dust or anything else that sticks to your wheels, like tar, so if you expect it to do the job on its own then you have been misinformed. 

On the subject of tar, obviously impossible to tell from the pics, but it looks like you have a whole load of it. Those black dots are too big to be brake dust so if they are really difficult to get off, they are tar. This can come from most loose or freshly laid road surfaces or even just as it gets churned up by heavy traffic. If so you will need to attack it with a dedicated tar remover. 

For the general problem of your consistently dirty wheels, personally I would get your pads changed first and stop the problem at it’s source, there are plenty of car specific forums you can look at to get recommendations for new pads, but oem usually give the best compromise of performance, cost and longevity, don’t forget if your pads are throwing off that much dust then they must be wearing pretty quickly too. Once that is taken care of I would look at getting some protection on them to make them easier to clean, a dedicated wheel wax or sealant or ideally a ceramic coating. This will make subsequent cleaning much easier and a good ceramic will last 12 months+. 

Wheel cleaners generally fall into two categories, acid based and water based, acid based are really strong and will get the job done quicker and with less effort but, they are so strong that repeated regular use will start to damage your alloys and actually make it even harder to clean them. Water based cleaner are much safer and kinder to wheels but of course require more work on your part. 

I use both types, but just try to use acid based only when absolutely necessary, although at the moment I’m loving AF Revolution wheel soap. If you want a cheap strong wheel cleaner then look at the Car Plan stuff at Halfords, about £12 or something like that for 5 litres. Does a grand job, just be sure to rinse it thoroughly and don’t use it every week.


----------



## lbr1984 (Jun 14, 2017)

I have to agree the Auto Finesse product is poor compared to others on the market. I wouldn’t buy it again. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rik1301 (Jan 23, 2018)

Macca66: is that Wonder Wheels the one with a small tub inside and a soft brush applicator? If it is then I've used that one too! Add that one to the list of others that had little effect. IIRC the solution is really runny and doesn't stay on the wheels like the Iron Out one does. I'm pretty sure the 'other' Wonder Wheels Hot Wheels (or whatever it's called - purple bottle with flames on?) was a spray trigger one? If I'm recalling correctly then I've used both to little effect  .

Nano: first run was on dry wheels and left on for a short while whilst agitating it with a toothbrush. Naturally I'm concerned about leaving this stuff on for too long as I don't want it to melt my wheels. The second and third runs were obviously on wet wheels after rinsing the first go off.

Ref the comments about the tar : that's what I thought and I got some ObiTarAte as well, but the solution is like water and doesn't stick to the wheels. I've given it several attempts but it doesn't do anything at all, and certainly nothing to those blobs. I've even tried some petrol on them as I've had success removing tar spots on the sills of an old car with some petrol (or may have been lighter fluid) on a bit of rag but it's not touching those blobs at all.

The brake pads have been a bone of contention with me for some time. At the last service they and the disks needed replacing and I made enquiries about other types that weren't so horrific for brake dust but there was no real consensus from other owners on "better" ones; all the mk3 STs seem to suffer badly from excessive brake dust perhaps due to wheel design, I don't know. The end result was that I just plunked for OEM disks and pads again and so here we are. To give you an example of how bad it is, I can completely clean the wheels of dust, let them dry and then go on a gentle round trip drive of only a few miles and there'll be enough brake dust to write my name in them by the time I'm back home. Unfortunately I simply don't have the time nor water access to pamper it every weekened and it can go months without a clean .

I was all set to get a bottle of Korrosol as posts in old threads seem to universally recommend it for heavy build-up like I have, but no-one's recommended it here and everyone is recommending their own favourites. What is wrong with Korrosol? Is there a 'go to' product which will completely remove what I have in, say, 2 applications and a little agitating if needed, that won't also melt my wheels? Gel-type one preferably as I don't like the watery ones that don't "stick".

Thanks.


----------



## rik1301 (Jan 23, 2018)

I should add for clarity that the alloy finish is not silver as you may expect, but actually a dark anthracite kinda colour.


----------



## percymon (Jun 27, 2007)

rik1301 said:


> I was all set to get a bottle of Korrosol as posts in old threads seem to universally recommend it for heavy build-up like I have, but no-one's recommended it here and everyone is recommending their own favourites.


Yes, everyone has their favourites and everyone thinks highly of what they've used for their own situation which may or may not be comparable to yours.

I've seen Meguiars wheel brightener mentioned a few times over the years, which also appears to be quite effective on heavily contaminated wheels - I've never tried it and only seems to be available in larger volume containers.

If you've used the original Wonder Wheels with the pot and brush, and its not doing an awful lot then i'd suggest you get a cheap medium grade clay bar from ebay, and try that (although good luck with some of the tighter spaces !).

I think you may find some of that contamination is embedded in the finish sadly.


----------



## gibbo555 (May 3, 2011)

I actually gave Iron Out a second chance over the weekend after getting a good deal on 5 litres of it and it done the business on some seriously baked on brake dust/metal filings after the brake pads running on the metal, albeit taking 3 hits with heavy agitation but worked a treat.

Iron X and Orchard Autocare Iron Cleanse are my usual go to's.


----------



## rubberducky1957 (Jan 8, 2016)

Excellent detailed pics by the way. I've seen similar on a colleagues car and it was basically etched into the surface from repeated irregular use of a strong acid cleaner which from his description he was failing to wash off properly nor was he applying any subsequent protection. Got most of it off with repeated application and agitation using WW (phosphoric acid version). The finish was far from perfect but he was happy with the result so I had no choice but to seal in the damage and remaining etching with a protectant to prevent it re-occurring so quickly. If it had bothered him then refurb would be the only answer.


----------



## Demetrios72 (Jun 27, 2011)

Car Chem Revolt is a very good product :thumb:


----------



## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

No Iron remover is going to remove that. Its baked in brake dust.

As others have mentioned, the original Wonder Wheels, Meguiars Wheel Brightener or equivalent very strong acidic based product will work.

Ideally you need to start sealing the wheels and this won't happen, or clean the wheels more often.


----------



## rik1301 (Jan 23, 2018)

gibbo555 said:


> I actually gave Iron Out a second chance over the weekend after getting a good deal on 5 litres of it and it done the business on some seriously baked on brake dust/metal filings after the brake pads running on the metal, albeit taking 3 hits with heavy agitation but worked a treat.
> 
> Iron X and Orchard Autocare Iron Cleanse are my usual go to's.


Mine have had at least double the number of applications and agitations with Iron Out and while it's true to say that there have been a diminishing number of purple runs on each go, I reached the point where it was no longer doing anything.

The various detailer reviews of these products you see on youtube and on these forums make me chuckle. They show you wheels that appear to be in a similar state to my own, then spend 10 seconds spraying the solution on the wheel, leaving it for a minute then casually jetwashing it off with a lance, leaving showroom finish wheels . I'd pay good money to see these reviewers do the same on my wheels! Of course, what they conveniently forget to mention is that the wheels have been sealed to within an inch of their lives some weeks prior as that is the only explanation for how the crud falls off so easily. I think if these products were tested in real world scenarios where cars often go for months (or even years) without seeing any attention, then I don't think the reviews for them would be quite so favourable...

Getting back to business, what is the reasoning behind the BH Auto Wheels recommendations over the Korrosol? From the research I've done I'm lead to believe that Auto Wheels is the inferior of the 2 products, being a fall-out remover and wheel cleaner all-in-one, whereas the Korrosol is supposed to just do one job, that being to remove heavy build-up of crud. What am I missing? Have any of you actually used BOTH products on heavy build-up like I have and can comment on their respective efficiency?

I don't wish to come across as being ungrateful for your suggestions but please understand I have spent a not insiginificant amount on alleged excellent products only to find that they've been nowhere near as good as claimed. Understandably, I don't have a bottomless pit of money to keep throwing at products that are not up to the job.


----------



## Mcpx (Mar 15, 2016)

I have used oblitarate and it does work, but like any tar remover it does take a while and repeated application to melt the tar (if that is what it is). On particularly bad spot you can soak something like a cotton make up pad (48p for 100 @ Lidl, picked some up yesterday!) and then just stick it on and let it do it’s work. 

I think the only real solution to your problem is going to be prevention in the form of a good ceramic like Gtechniq C5 or Carbon Collective Platinum Wheels. The caveat with this approach though is that in order to apply the coating the wheels will first have to be really, really clean and that after application, you will not be able to use an acidic cleaner on them, although you probably won’t have to. With a ceramic coating a wash every couple of weeks with normal shampoo should be enough.


----------



## Mcpx (Mar 15, 2016)

rik1301 said:


> Mine have had at least double the number of applications and agitations with Iron Out and while it's true to say that there have been a diminishing number of purple runs on each go, I reached the point where it was no longer doing anything.


This proves what I have been saying. The Iron Out is doing what it is intended to do, dissolving the iron particles, nothing more. If the amount of reaction diminishes with each application then that proves that you are removing it.

Looking at it logically, if you apply the product and nothing happens there are only two possible explanations. One is that the product just doesn't work and the other is that there is no iron contamination there for it to work on. If you apply the product and get a reaction that must mean that it does work, however if you then repeat the application and it doesn't work, then that must logically prove that the contamination is no longer present and has been removed.

To be honest, any wheel cleaner is going to struggle with this level of build up that has been left for so long. You've got brake dust and iron particles which sticks to your wheels because when it flies off the pads it is molten hot. That dirt and dust is then baked on over and over again by the heat generated from yet more braking and from more molten debris hitting it, over weeks if not months, that kind of contamination is not just going to disappear with a squirt of anything and a quick scrub. So you should consider that it is not the products you are using, you may just be asking too much of them.


----------



## rik1301 (Jan 23, 2018)

rik1301 said:


> Macca66: is that Wonder Wheels the one with a small tub inside and a soft brush applicator? If it is then I've used that one too! Add that one to the list of others that had little effect. IIRC the solution is really runny and doesn't stay on the wheels like the Iron Out one does. I'm pretty sure the 'other' Wonder Wheels Hot Wheels (or whatever it's called - purple bottle with flames on?) was a spray trigger one? If I'm recalling correctly then I've used both to little effect  .


It was actually Meguiars Hot Rims that I used (not Wonder Wheels Hot Wheels) - I've just seen a pic of the bottle.

So the summarise, I've used :

Wonder Wheels (the one in the box with the brush applicator)
Meguiars Hot Rims
AutoFinesse Iron Out

and none of them have any effect on the baked-on deposits.


----------



## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

rik1301 said:


> It was actually Meguiars Hot Rims that I used (not Wonder Wheels Hot Wheels) - I've just seen a pic of the bottle.
> 
> So the summarise, I've used :
> 
> ...


The wonder wheels you have used is the non acidic version which won't touch the baked on brake dust. Iron out will not shift what you've shown, it's too far gone for fallout remover.

I will say once more. Get yourself a bottle of Devils Juice from KKD. It is acid based and thickens up when mixed with water. Start with a 1:4 dilution, spray on and allow it to dwell a couple of minutes before agitating and removing. If this doesn't shift it simply strengthen the solution and repeat. Keep it away from the center caps though as it can ruin the finish on some of the cheaper plastic ones.


----------



## rik1301 (Jan 23, 2018)

Brian1612 said:


> The wonder wheels you have used is the non acidic version which won't touch the baked on brake dust. Iron out will not shift what you've shown, it's too far gone for fallout remover.
> 
> I will say once more. Get yourself a bottle of Devils Juice from KKD. It is acid based and thickens up when mixed with water. Start with a 1:4 dilution, spray on and allow it to dwell a couple of minutes before agitating and removing. If this doesn't shift it simply strengthen the solution and repeat. Keep it away from the center caps though as it can ruin the finish on some of the cheaper plastic ones.


Are you sure the WW is not acidic? That's not what someone else said further up the thread. It's the one in the box and called Super Alloy cleaner. I'm pretty sure it's acidic but whatever it is it didn't work.

I've got some suggestions to try now but I think I am going to start with Power Maxed based on this post http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=4846242&postcount=12, as those wheels are very similar to what mine look like after the top layer of crud has been removed. If I can get them looking like the 'after' pics there then most of the battle will be won and I can look at sealing them.


----------



## shine247 (Mar 1, 2010)

You have used acidic.


----------



## macca666 (Mar 30, 2010)

rik1301 said:


> It was actually Meguiars Hot Rims that I used (not Wonder Wheels Hot Wheels) - I've just seen a pic of the bottle.
> 
> So the summarise, I've used :
> 
> ...


If youve tried what you've said and its not budging it at all including ObiTarAte which i assume is oblitarate just a predictive typo which you mention in a post previously but not in the one I've quoted for some reason??

You mention you've tried multiple applications of each which are tried and tested products and all make no real difference and should work so I'd suggest then you look at a refurb as if the products you've tried multiple times make no difference then I'd suggest nothing will work.


----------



## rik1301 (Jan 23, 2018)

macca666 said:


> If youve tried what you've said and its not budging it at all including ObiTarAte which i assume is oblitarate just a predictive typo which you mention in a post previously but not in the one I've quoted for some reason??
> 
> You mention you've tried multiple applications of each which are tried and tested products and all make no real difference and should work so I'd suggest then you look at a refurb as if the products you've tried multiple times make no difference then I'd suggest nothing will work.


I didn't mention Oblitarate because that's a tar remover and not a wheel cleaner. It works ok for removing tar as I tested it on some spots on my rear arches but it hasn't done anything on the wheels so I can only assume it's not tar.

Getting them refurbed is not an option due to costs as I'd want them wet painting and not power coating and besides, under the crud they're in pretty decent condition with only some very small isolated areas of corrosion. I just need something a few levels stronger than what I've used.


----------



## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

rik1301 said:


> Are you sure the WW is not acidic? That's not what someone else said further up the thread. It's the one in the box and called Super Alloy cleaner. I'm pretty sure it's acidic but whatever it is it didn't work.
> 
> I've got some suggestions to try now but I think I am going to start with Power Maxed based on this post http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=4846242&postcount=12, as those wheels are very similar to what mine look like after the top layer of crud has been removed. If I can get them looking like the 'after' pics there then most of the battle will be won and I can look at sealing them.


Apologies I had missed that previously. I thought you were talking about the purple 'bleeding' version you can pick up in Asda/Tesco. If you have tried all the mentioned products (fallout remover & acidic wheel cleaner) along with Tar/Glue remover... Afraid it sounds like a refurb may be required. Could try claying them but I doubt it will remove it if the previous attempts haven't.


----------



## Benfr16 (Dec 3, 2016)

I can also confirm BH autowheels is a good product. I had some issues and it shifted most from my black alloys. I tried an iron remover and it did pretty much nothing.

I got a recommendation from this post I made. I updated it with the results so u can see on this link 

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=398184


----------



## Feeex (Apr 6, 2007)

The original WW was my go to for really nasty wheels. My Mum's Mini hadn't been cleaned any other way than by the local brush wash and the wheels were in awful shape. Wonder Wheels, when applied and left to sit for a while got them sparkling. It's very strong stuff and I used to fill the black cap with the solution and then paint it onto the surface. Leave it for 5 mins or so, which would remove almost all contamination, and then repeat in the tough corners. It never failed. Even baked on stuff broke down eventually but this sometimes needed to be agitated further with a scourer or toothbrush...!


----------



## Ronnie (Nov 15, 2006)

rik1301 said:


> Hello. I asked for recommendations on a well known motoring forum for what to use to remove medium to heavy brake dust from the alloy wheels on my Focus ST. I was assured that Iron Out or Wonder Wheels would both perform the task with ease . The truth of the matter is that both are absolutely garbage for anything more than a light dusting and neither product will touch the baked on blobs in the corners of the spokes, nor the black stain lines, and this is with copious amounts of agitation with an old toothbrush too.
> 
> Is there anything stronger available before I have to go buy a tub of brick acid? I see from some searching that Bilt Hamber Korrosol gets mentioned quite a lot but user reviews are rather mixed with the majority saying it's comparable strength to Iron Out, which is simply not gonna cut it.
> 
> I'd particularly welcome comments from professional detailers that will experience customer cars where the wheels have been neglected for years and will be in a similar state. Thanks.


Hi there Rik, if you want to have a chat about wheel care, feel free to give me a bell on 0778258006 and if I can help I will

:thumb:


----------



## tigerspill (Nov 28, 2015)

shine247 said:


> You have used acidic.


Can I just check - this is the stuff available at Halfords - it it the best product to remove "black" spots on wheels?
Just want to make sure I get a decent product.

Thanks


----------



## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

tigerspill said:


> Can I just check - this is the stuff available at Halfords - it it the best product to remove "black" spots on wheels?
> Just want to make sure I get a decent product.
> 
> Thanks


It will shift it no problem. This is acidic though so my only advice is don't let it dwell beyond a quick agitation and avoid getting it on the plastic centre caps.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## Harry_p (Mar 18, 2015)

tigerspill said:


> Can I just check - this is the stuff available at Halfords - it it the best product to remove "black" spots on wheels?
> Just want to make sure I get a decent product.
> 
> Thanks


It depends what the black spots are. It won't touch tar spots stuck to the wheels, but it does a very good job of dissolving / removing the little iron filings which get imbedded in the lacquer during hard use.

Just ensure they're rinsed thoroughly afterwards with normal soapy and then fresh water.


----------



## tigerspill (Nov 28, 2015)

Harry_p said:


> It depends what the black spots are. It won't touch tar spots stuck to the wheels, but it does a very good job of dissolving / removing the little iron filings which get imbedded in the lacquer during hard use.
> 
> Just ensure they're rinsed thoroughly afterwards with normal soapy and then fresh water.


Thanks. I also have some AF Oblitarate. So will use that first to remove any tar.


----------

