# Clean Ride - Motorcycle Detailing



## RROSSI

Hi DW Members


This is a guide I have written for my local Motorcycle club, 

for the last 2 years I have made the transition from cars to bikes and have been loving it, I never thoughts I would like bikes so much and become one of them.....hahah I still love cars but ...

anyway a few years ago I met a detailer and he showed me the ropes and I bought a bunch of Swissvax gear as it was the best? I spent a bit, posted a little bit on here and just enjoyed the serenity in cleaning and detailing, bikes were just that little bit harder but more rewarding for me, I kept my own bikes x5 in really mint better than showroom condition and every second person was asking me for a detail, I’m sure you know where this is heading so a few months back I bit the bullet and started a registered and fully insured business on the side that I may or may not grow into my full time job, its just a really good step for me as I ahve a fantastic job that pays very well and can’t afford to go backwards to much, any way here is my detail on my brand new Honda CBR1000RR 2012

Oh and happy for any feed back at all good or bad, I’m no pro by any stretch of the imagination I just enjoy the work and get great satisfaction,

Yours humbly R.Rossi


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## RROSSI

Firstly, This is not really well written or the easiest to follow so apologies if it upsets you or there are too many pictures or if you think this is a total waste of time, I should/could be spending my time doing something better, for me its like painting a picture, knitting a jumper, I don't know relaxing, I can switch my mind off and watch the hours go by but it seems like only minutes, some people go for walks on the beach, some people mediate,

I DETAIL.....

Came back today from an awesome country ride, just cracked 4200km on the CBR and I'm loving every minute of it, next week I'm at the track and will be having even more fun, only drama...

its filthy from my ride:





so just a quick run down on how I made this right 

Pre-wash with AutoGlym shampoo cleaner, this is a foam that brakes down the dirt, the least amount of dirt you need to wipe off the least amount of scratches



sits for about 3-5 mins but never is allowed to dry



Then a gentle wash to remove the bugs and grit:



quite a bit has come off



now time for the first wash with Lambs wool



I use Auto Glym Shampoo & Conditioner as it doesn't leave a heavy residue and is low foam



wash from top to bottom- this is where most would leave it but its still dirty--

what is left is marks and bug guts that has embedded into the paint, we need to use a fine cut clay bar, there are many different grades



this is a bit of what were talking about, this is tar and crap that is stuck to the paint and a wash just will not get it out.



running the clay bar is a few directions this is what it does, just have to be carful but, 2012 Honda paint is thin and using a corse grit of too much pressure and not enough lubricant and you can damage the paint, see the **** has been "picked up" by the clay



okay after this is done its another foam wash to get any fine clay particles off, no rubbing at all followed by a gentle shower again, you need to make sure the bike is always wet for the entire process, always harder in summer



next is a clean of the mechanicals, wheel, brakes, frame and so on using Auto Glym motorcycle cleaner and Brush, this brush is about $50 but it's the best brush you will ever buy



spray on and lather up.... really keeps parts looking clean and stops crap baking on



onto the wheels and rear swing arm...



now we rinse again just gently for the final wash :



okay now the bike is clean-ish and ready for a dry, firstly I use a low pressure about 25PSI high volume blow gun with filtration to blow most of the water off, again less touching of the body work the better, means less fine scratches and gets a lot of the water out of tight spots:



followed by a chamois to get last of the water off:



here we have a bike that has been washed and dried and ready to accept a paint cleaner and wax - this took a better part of 2.5 hours from start to finish



- - - Updated - - -

Well following on from our last shot the bike is ready for the next half of its clean. firstly we need to seal the unpainted plastics so they do not get affected by any paint cleaner or wax, some plastics are more forgiving that others but I don't see the point in taking the risk , I use Plas Guard for hard plastics and Swissvax for soft rubber, its creates a seal so when/if you get anything on them it wipes straight off:









now that the plastics are sealed I move onto the chain, a quick spray on a rag then straight onto the chain to get rid of all the nasty's, I use AG as its not harsh at all and wont **** up your o-rings



and I clean,



Now I spray on Chain WAX



I do it a little differently to most, I spray onto a rag then onto the chain, I can build more onto it and it stops the fling when riding I have found? and were done.


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## RROSSI

okay now that the Solvents are out of the way its onto a polish for the frame/wheels/swing arm, I use Megs Tech2, its a silicone based wax and is easy to put on and off but doesn't load the paint up as much and keeps the paint the way it should be, ie satin and shiny depending where you use it and the wheels love it!



so here we go:



Wheels Front and back are done, once this is done it becomes very easy to clean with a few other products and only really needs to be applied 3-4 times a year 



the rear sub frame, and then engine and anything else that is painted metal, I then polish it off with a microfiber cloth
Before:



After:





- - - Updated - - -

okay so now its onto the fairings, I'm using SWISSVAX gear now that is very,very expensive but the results are well worth it and a little goes a long way so when you work it out its almost the same as buying a cheap polish, first we need the paint cleaned and ready to accept the wax as the wax needs a clean and pours surface to stick to, I'm using SWISSVAX Cleaner Fluid, this stuff is very tricky, you cant let it dry at all and you can only do small sections at a time or else it was haze your paint:



its a liquid and goes on smooth and you just buff



it leaves the paint squeaky clean and ready for the wax, I almost wish I could leave it like this but the finish needs to be locked in and protected.




okay now time for the WAX, not to go into it, this SWISSVAX Shield has 40% Canubra Wax, to give this some weight, the Megures polish would be lucky to contain 2% Wax, this gear cost me $290 a tub but a few points before you start the hate on, to do an entire bike you would use no more than a heaped tea spoon of this stuff and that's for two coats, I have had this jar for 4 years now in the fridge, its natural and you can eat it an nothing will happen, oh and you apply it with your hands:



this is what it looks like:



and this is how it goes on:







on the second coat you use a lot less and its more for spots you may have missed, it goes on very thin and just needs a polish, one point however, it gets deeper when left in the sun, the wax hardens and gives it a protective "Shield" on red and blacks it just pops, my two Ducati's Loved this gear!









- - - Updated - - -

so the body work is done and dusted there is just a few things left and were done, Now I like to clean and polish any chrome/aluminium/bare Metals, I have used a fair amount of metal polishes but for ease of use and finish guess what..... you can't go past this stuff 



Yoshi before, remember it has been washed with cleaner so its not too bad but doesn't have that RR Sheen :



during:



done:





I also like to clean the factory leavers, they may not look dirty but gloves and road grim imbed into the metal and can discolour them over time, check out how dirty they were with a quick wipe !



okay nearly done now, just a quick once over on the mirrors, I use this for the mirrors and its the best I have ever seen/used, PERIOD



nice and clear so I can see by beautiful elbows 



so one last thing before were done and that is to go over the plastics just in case any wax or cleaner has gone on them and a gentle buff over the fairings and we are DONE!!


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## RROSSI

Now I have a Beer and stand back in agony but look at this sweet ride ready to get dirty again


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## Danny B

Great write up, thank for sharing :thumb:


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## RROSSI

So this is it, again if I have done anything wrong or there are better products to use please let me know, I will always take on board your comments 

good or bad.


RR


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## Naddy37

I'm not overly into bikes, personally, I'd love a Vespa...

but, that's a great write up, and a great looking bike too.


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## RROSSI

neilos said:


> I'm not overly into bikes, personally, I'd love a Vespa...
> 
> but, that's a great write up, and a great looking bike too.


I was exactly the same, something one day just clicked.....??

thanks for the "Thanks"

RR


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## Titanium Htail

That is a great job, I never cleaned the bikes that I did have to this standard although it did live in the house....:lol:

Some great work, I like this as well 
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=305467&highlight=Honda+1000

John THt. :thumb:


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## sfstu

awsome looking bike and great write up...:thumb:

what others do you have, any pics of details on them...?


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## chrisc

Get some artdeshine nanogloss takes them to another level when layerd


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## RROSSI

chrisc said:


> Get some artdeshine nanogloss takes them to another level when layerd


mm im in Australia so don't think I have access to that 

I have used the swissvax Nano and its epic? well to me any way,

I will look into it.

err scratch that looks likes it here in Perth??? WTF??? ordered !! TY so much

will give it a go!!

RR

RR


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## -Kev-

looks good but you aren't a DW Supporter so no advertising please..


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## Naddy37

-Kev- said:


> looks good but you aren't a DW Supporter so no advertising please..


Have you seen where he's located Kev?


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## RROSSI

anyone want to come to Perth WA for a detail?? lol

But I totally hear you, just wanted to post up to get feed back on if im doing anything wrong or if I can do anything better is all,

I rate all you guys as pros 


RR


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## craigeh123

epic machine !
nice work bud


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## breadvanspud

good write up, im the same with my r6, clean it after every ride, looks amazing.


Have you thought about using a double plush microfibre drying towel as opposed to a chamois, i find them to be a bit kinder to paint, especially jap bike paint, as you stated, its very thin so you dont want to be cutting too often or resprays on the cards...bad times!!

nice write up, and very nice bike!!


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## -Kev-

neilos said:


> Have you seen where he's located Kev?


yes, we do have International Supporter that pay to advertise on here


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## Porkypig

Nice detail dude, love my cars but nice to see something different now and again. :thumb:


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## RROSSI

chrisc said:


> Get some artdeshine nanogloss takes them to another level when layerd


thanks for the heads up im picking up some this weekend so will see how we go and I have bought some wax to give it a go.

RR


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## scullionm4

RROSSI said:


> Hi DW Members
> 
> This is a guide I have written for my local Motorcycle club,
> 
> for the last 2 years I have made the transition from cars to bikes and have been loving it, I never thoughts I would like bikes so much and become one of them.....hahah I still love cars but ...
> 
> anyway a few years ago I met a detailer and he showed me the ropes and I bought a bunch of Swissvax gear as it was the best? I spent a bit, posted a little bit on here and just enjoyed the serenity in cleaning and detailing, bikes were just that little bit harder but more rewarding for me, I kept my own bikes x5 in really mint better than showroom condition and every second person was asking me for a detail, I'm sure you know where this is heading so a few months back I bit the bullet and started a registered and fully insured business on the side that I may or may not grow into my full time job, its just a really good step for me as I ahve a fantastic job that pays very well and can't afford to go backwards to much, any way here is my detail on my brand new Honda CBR1000RR 2012
> 
> Oh and happy for any feed back at all good or bad, I'm no pro by any stretch of the imagination I just enjoy the work and get great satisfaction,
> 
> Yours humbly R.Rossi


Great write up. As i am just starting on motorcycle detailing nice to hear any tips.

Sent from my LG-M200 using Tapatalk


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## The Cueball

2 words for you:

Vulcanet wipes.

quick, easy and stops the need for all the steps and products above - you can even clean your visor and helmet as well....

takes me around 5 minutes to clean the bike, then I'm sitting with a beer in the garden.

:thumb:


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## iPlod999

http://Ktm 640 Duke 2


http://imgur.com/ZdWiI


I have a KTM 640 Duke 2 arriving soon.

It will be shiney shiney.


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## scullionm4

RROSSI said:


> Now I have a Beer and stand back in agony but look at this sweet ride ready to get dirty again


Spot on. Some good tips. Usually takes me about 3 to 4 hours to complete. Never used Swissvax product's, will have buy some to dry.

Sent from my LG-M200 using Tapatalk


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## scullionm4

Some of my work.

































































Sent from my LG-M200 using Tapatalk


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## Andyblue

RROSSI said:


> So this is it, again if I have done anything wrong or there are better products to use please let me know, I will always take on board your comments
> 
> good or bad.
> 
> RR


That's a great looking bike 

Great write up and step by step guide 

I think the only thing I'd offer for help, Autoglym Tar remover - brilliant stuff, I had a white Audi A5 and it showed the tar spots up no end, squirt of the tar remover on a microfibre pad (or cloth if you prefer) and wiped over the tar, disappeared and great finish again...and by putting it the applicator it's not spraying / covering stuff / areas you don't want.


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## GP Punto

Really useful and detailed guide, thank you.

Its a while since I had a bike and mine were much simpler but there are differences in how you do things compared to back then.

For example, it was only a two minute job to drop the front wheel to make cleaning easier rather than fight the brake discs for access, is that still an option?

I also used to get OCD about keeping the chain greased and had hoped that the need for weekly spray greasing had gone with chain improvements, with a return to biking I was really looking at a shaft or belt to fix this. Do chains still need a lot of maintenance?

You have access to a lot more product then I did, back then it was Armourall for plastic, hard car wax for paint and brake fluid for the tyre walls - and that was all, perhaps turtle wax shampoo in those fat one use sachets.


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## Streeto

GP Punto said:


> Really useful and detailed guide, thank you.
> 
> Its a while since I had a bike and mine were much simpler but there are differences in how you do things compared to back then.
> 
> For example, it was only a two minute job to drop the front wheel to make cleaning easier rather than fight the brake discs for access, is that still an option?
> 
> I also used to get OCD about keeping the chain greased and had hoped that the need for weekly spray greasing had gone with chain improvements, with a return to biking I was really looking at a shaft or belt to fix this. Do chains still need a lot of maintenance?
> 
> You have access to a lot more product then I did, back then it was Armourall for plastic, hard car wax for paint and brake fluid for the tyre walls - and that was all, perhaps turtle wax shampoo in those fat one use sachets.


Modern chains are easy to maintain, depends on what conditions you'll be using them for really too though. I tend to get home from a ride (summer use only) when the chain is warm still. Pop it on the rear paddock stand and use a non fling dry chain lube. Every so often wipe it down with a clean cloth and some brake cleaner. Modern O ring and X ring chains are really easy to maintain. You can go to the extreme of taking it off and soaking it in oil like you used to on old BSA's etc but it isn't necessary. Just make sure you do the back of the chain, both sides & bottom with the lube and wipe away any excess. Some people fit scottoilers but in my experience they're not as good as any can of good lube and a persons hands/eyes.

The Würth dry chain lube


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## GP Punto

Streeto said:


> Modern chains are easy to maintain, depends on what conditions you'll be using them for really too though. I tend to get home from a ride (summer use only) when the chain is warm still. Pop it on the rear paddock stand and use a non fling dry chain lube. Every so often wipe it down with a clean cloth and some brake cleaner. Modern O ring and X ring chains are really easy to maintain. You can go to the extreme of taking it off and soaking it in oil like you used to on old BSA's etc but it isn't necessary. Just make sure you do the back of the chain, both sides & bottom with the lube and wipe away any excess. Some people fit scottoilers but in my experience they're not as good as any can of good lube and a persons hands/eyes.
> 
> The Würth dry chain lube


Thanks for that. I seem to remember that the key areas that needed lube were not the rollers that fitted into the cogs but the side plates. Chain wear was also worse when the front sprocket was very small, the extra wear caused by the tighter radius.


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## Altos

@scullionM4 Wow, i like that Victory!


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