# Wurth Silver Alloy Aersol - Flatten?



## mark328 (Aug 1, 2010)

Hi Guys,

Almost finished apply last coats of basecoat ( as title ), on the inside rim of my alloys, however although i primed and surface was smooth prior to basecoat, i have noticed that the layers seem to have left a "metallic dust" on the surface which seems very rough and "loose".

Is this something that i should 2500 or 3000 before using my 2k aerosol lacquer?

Just a bit concerned as i know i have to get the lacquer down within 20mins of last coat to ensure it sticks, which wouldnt give me enough time to flatten?

any tips?

TIA


----------



## Shinyvec (Feb 12, 2010)

I have always allowed the basecoat to dry fully and then wet&Dry with a 1000 grit before the Clearcoat. I have done it this way as it was the way one of my ex boss's used to spray Clear Coated cars but I am talking Cellulose era so maybe things have changed


----------



## mark328 (Aug 1, 2010)

Shinyvec said:


> I have always allowed the basecoat to dry fully and then wet&Dry with a 1000 grit before the Clearcoat. I have done it this way as it was the way one of my ex boss's used to spray Clear Coated cars but I am talking Cellulose era so maybe things have changed


Cheers, normally i do, but read so much about that you "have to apply lacquer within 20mins otherwise lacquer wont stick" and that wetsanding a metallic is a no-no.

Just 1200 a small piece back and looks and feels much better, but need to know if this is a good enough base for my 2k aersol lacquer.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aerosol-C..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item53dbc98b01

Thanks for your reply.


----------



## Shinyvec (Feb 12, 2010)

I have painted parts on my car which is Vauxhall Saphire Black and this is a Perlesant paint which looks like metalic as it has a flake in the paint and what I have already wrote is how I did my paintwork, except I used Halfords Paints.


----------



## moosh (May 8, 2011)

You should never flatten a base coat before clear coat its just not the correct way to do it. If its dirt then rub the whole lot down and start again. The roughness may possibly just be the metallic grain which can be buried using the clear.

Hope this helps :thumb:


----------



## MK1Campaign (Mar 27, 2007)

Are you getting the base on wet enough?


----------



## mark328 (Aug 1, 2010)

MK1Campaign said:


> Are you getting the base on wet enough?


Thin coats dry quickly, so getting it "wet" is near possible!!!

I have read up on the Wurth Silver Alloy paint and it is normal for the "texture" after spraying, its actually supposed to be rough like sandpaper, then the lacquer swallows up all the "roughness" in order to give a 3 dimentional look!!

Thanks everyone for your tips!:thumb:


----------



## mark328 (Aug 1, 2010)

moosh said:


> You should never flatten a base coat before clear coat its just not the correct way to do it. If its dirt then rub the whole lot down and start again. The roughness may possibly just be the metallic grain which can be buried using the clear.
> 
> Hope this helps :thumb:


Excellent - just what i read online -:thumb:


----------



## mark328 (Aug 1, 2010)

Sorry to bring this up again, but somethings not right.

Ive applied a couple of coats of lacquer and the finish is terrible, far too much "grain" has come out of the can.

*Is it possible that by placing the can in warm water it has pressurised the can to the point that its laying too much metallic, too soon. .e too forcefull?*

Ive seen some of the write-ups on here and they certaintly dont look grainy/rough like mine ( thankfully its just the inside rims at the moment)


----------



## mark328 (Aug 1, 2010)

mark328 said:


> Sorry to bring this up again, but somethings not right.
> 
> Ive applied a couple of coats of lacquer and the finish is terrible, far too much "grain" has come out of the can.
> 
> ...


Bump :thumb:


----------



## GlynRS2 (Jan 21, 2006)

I have used this paint before and it supposed to leave a textured effect after the base coat. Have a look here.
I have always built it up in 2-3 very light coats and the texture then goes after you use the Wurth claer lacquer. I wonder if you may have laid down the base coat a bit too thick?


----------



## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Sounds like the base has been put on to dry. Which will leave you with a finish that looks very dusty as the metallic will be sitting up. If silver base is applied to dry it makes the metallic stand out even more, and will result in the finish you have seen. If left like this then you apply the laquer it will look fine, but as the laquer drys it will draw into the finish on the basecoat. Making the finished laquer look very dry with no real finish to it.

Best course of action would be, flat the laquer down so it's smooth. Then apply the silver again but make sure it's applied in nice even coats not dry. so its not dry as you will only end up with same finish again. Trouble is with aerosol cans you don't have the control that you would with a spraygun.


----------



## mark328 (Aug 1, 2010)

Andyb0127 said:


> Sounds like the base has been put on to dry. Which will leave you with a finish that looks very dusty as the metallic will be sitting up. If silver base is applied to dry it makes the metallic stand out even more, and will result in the finish you have seen. If left like this then you apply the laquer it will look fine, but as the laquer drys it will draw into the finish on the basecoat. Making the finished laquer look very dry with no real finish to it.
> 
> Best course of action would be, flat the laquer down so it's smooth. Then apply the silver again but make sure it's applied in nice even coats not dry. so its not dry as you will only end up with same finish again. Trouble is with aerosol cans you don't have the control that you would with a spraygun.


Hi Andy - Thanks

How do i get it to go down wet, ive been told to use light coats, which i did, but are you saying spray more, i.e heavier coats?

Thanks


----------



## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

mark328 said:


> Hi Andy - Thanks
> 
> How do i get it to go down wet, ive been told to use light coats, which i did, but are you saying spray more, i.e heavier coats?
> 
> Thanks


A lot will depend on the aerosol cans your using. Some spray with just a jet, or some will have a fan ie wider spray pattern.
The better one would be the ones with a fan (wider spray pattern) because it will spray the metallic more even, and spray a bigger area. This way you will get the paint on with a more even coverage. 
Yes you will need to put the colour a little bit heavier, I know it's easier said than done and you'll get so many different answers it will be confusing, and makes you unsure of how to do it. 
When your ready to spray the colour.
First will just need to be a light even coat, leave that to dry for about ten mins, then apply your second coat which needs to be nice and even but not to heavy. Leave this or around fifteen minutes to dry, as it shouldn't take a lot to cover because you have only flatted the previous laquer. It should in theory now be covered, last coat is a very light misty coat (drop coat) which will help the metallic sit even, leave this for around twent mins, if there is a slight metallic dust sitting on it. Then use a tak rag/cloth to gently go over the base, it's a tacky cloth used prior to spraying which will remove the fine particles of colour making it look dusty/dry, be very gentle with the tak cloth if you push to hard it can mark the base. Then you should be able to apply your laquer.
With the laquer one of the best ones I've seen is made by pro-xl because it has a little lever on the nozzle so you can control the spray pattern making it easier to use, and for an aerosol laquer it actuall holds up really well.

Here's a link for pro-xl aerosol laquer.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...1YHAAQ&usg=AFQjCNF3D1SALi9K4u-Rua1xEmY73afEOw


----------



## mark328 (Aug 1, 2010)

Andyb0127 said:


> A lot will depend on the aerosol cans your using. Some spray with just a jet, or some will have a fan ie wider spray pattern.
> The better one would be the ones with a fan (wider spray pattern) because it will spray the metallic more even, and spray a bigger area. This way you will get the paint on with a more even coverage.
> Yes you will need to put the colour a little bit heavier, I know it's easier said than done and you'll get so many different answers it will be confusing, and makes you unsure of how to do it.
> When your ready to spray the colour.
> ...


Excellent Thanks Andy.

I have tack clothes so will use as directed. Thanks again for such a detailed reply -:thumb:


----------



## Shredder (Oct 10, 2009)

Having now used this paint I can add my experience.

It is a good match for BBS factory silver. I shook the can for the prescribed time and it was at ambient room temperature. The silver base coat does indeed leave a rough finish after application. There is a large amount of silver coloured dust (it is so fine that it's like dust rather than flake) in the paint. This contributes to the rough finish of the base coat but also to the visual effect of the paint once it is lacquered over. The fine silver dust ends up on things beyond the item being painted, so choose a suitable location for painting and mask/cover things in the surroundings as necessary (and wear suitable clothes and shoes). There will be loose silver dust on the painted surface once it has dried. A compressed air hose would be ideal to blow it off. Be careful in use of a cloth to dust it off or wipe the surface as the rough texture of the paint can catch small fibres that would end up being lacquered over if they remained. Do not sand the silver base coat prior to lacquering, this will change its appearance. I did have to do this to remove a particle that had landed in the paint, but that area then had to be painted with base coat again. After applying several adequately wet coats of lacquer the finish is as smooth as any other paint job.


----------



## XRDAN (Feb 28, 2012)

its not easy to get a nice finish from a can due to the trigger mainly (and partly the spray pattern) try getting a 'can gun' attachment from halfords (£5) they may seem a bit of a gimmick but do allow for a much improved spray technique- apply in straight strokes back and forth as you wood a gun with a 50% overlap and release the trigger at the end of each stroke

another thing to try would be apply 2-3 coats of base and allow to dry, tickle it down with 2000 grit and apply a final drop coat before lacquer


----------

