# Gyeon Can Coat



## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

could someone give me a quick run down on this product

seems to be very highly regarded, and im all about ease of use, i dont have a lot of free time so waiting hours for something to cure, in a garage, just isnt possible for me, is this really just spray on wipe off, like a quick detailer ?

what is real world durability like ?

im hopefully getting a new to me car soon and as winter is coming i want to get it protected, ive already got Fusso which im happy with but fancy a dabble with this ceramic stuff and this seems like the ideal introduction ?

my plan would be, probably spray the car over with korrosol, give it a wash, light machine polish with dodo lime prime for the prep, then the can coat

any info, tips, or other discussion very much welcome, im mostly out of the loop these days on products


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## Dave50 (Mar 14, 2013)

I’ve used it for the first time a few weeks ago, on the driveway in pretty much full sun. I applied it with a suede applicator and block, which uses more product but hopefully last a bit longer. I found it slightly grabby on the first wipe off, but have been told it’s the same with a spray application as well. I really liked the product and don’t think you will be disappointed if you go down that road. Beading is good, not sure on the self cleaning front yet as the wife’s car doesn’t get driven much at the moment.

Dave


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Amazing product. One of if not my favourite.

Make sure the surface is prepped and oil free, work methodically and have a decent light source to mind for highspots as it's a proper coating.

Its easy off, you'll hardly see it going on but it spreads very far - would recommend against applying with a microsuede or applicator pad, it'll only encourage you to use more product which is not helpful. Use it how it was designed, on with a MF cloth and off with a second plusher one. If you overlap where you've been you'll feel a grabniness but it'll slicken up after time. Recommend a second coat after an hour, it'll improve the durability and performance.

One bottle should do 8-12 cars... Flush the sprayer with detergent and warm water immediately before it hardens. 

Beading is out of this world and adds a lovely warm candy gloss. Durability wise you should get 6+ months, makes sense to top it up after a full chemical decon and that'll boost the gloss.


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

atbalfour said:


> Amazing product. One of if not my favourite.
> 
> Make sure the surface is prepped and oil free, work methodically and have a decent light source to mind for highspots as it's a proper coating.
> 
> ...


How long do you leave the product on before you buff off?


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Soul boy 68 said:


> How long do you leave the product on before you buff off?


No dwell time required. I normally work a panel at a time or half a larger panel (e.g. roof or bonnet) and buff immediately after. If you miss a bit and it won't come off you can always reactivate it by applying a little more of the product (containing carrier). You really can move around the car extremely quick.


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

atbalfour said:


> No dwell time required. I normally work a panel at a time or half a larger panel (e.g. roof or bonnet) and buff immediately after. If you miss a bit and it won't come off you can always reactivate it by applying a little more of the product (containing carrier). You really can move around the car extremely quick.


Thank you, did you know there's Gyeon cure that you can apply immediately after using can coat? I will certainly be purchasing Can Coat.


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Soul boy 68 said:


> Thank you, did you know there's Gyeon cure that you can apply immediately after using can coat? I will certainly be purchasing Can Coat.


Gut feel would tell me to leave Cancoat for an hour before using Cure.. I just wouldn't want anything to impact Cancoat bonding. I understand the appeal of a temporary barrier like Cure if rain was due, but beyond that Cure is just going to mask the better performing product beneath.

It's a fantastic product SB, I'm sure you'll be a convert soon


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

atbalfour said:


> Gut feel would tell me to leave Cancoat for an hour before using Cure.. I just wouldn't want anything to impact Cancoat bonding. I understand the appeal of a temporary barrier like Cure if rain was due, but beyond that Cure is just going to mask the better performing product beneath.
> 
> It's a fantastic product SB, I'm sure you'll be a convert soon


Cheers my man, I'll hold out on the cure, not entirely sure if it's really necessary. I've seen a couple of you tube videos of Can Coat and it does look the business. I will be using Can Coat for when I perform the winter prep on my M2 Comp.


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## spyder (Jun 15, 2010)

Outstanding product, leaves a lovely glow to the paint. It’s very easy to apply,as said above spray into a microfibre cloth to apply and buff with a soft cloth. I find Gyeon baldwipes really good. Lime prime is a bit oily? I’d be inclined to use something like CarPro essence or Gyeon prep. I’ve seen nearly a year durability on a daily driver.


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## The Guz (Jan 27, 2019)

It's a great product.

This should help.


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## Dave50 (Mar 14, 2013)

I'm sticking with the block application, I'm not arguing with Sandro 

Dave


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Dave50 said:


> I'm sticking with the block application, *I'm not arguing with Sandro*
> 
> Dave


Me neither


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

Good choice with the CanCoat.


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## Itstony (Jan 19, 2018)

Excellent video and Car Craft's guy Sandro is very thorough and independent.
Adding the trial on application was a bonus and useful he shared that perspective.

I have not used either, but I am sure those that have will be very interested, especially the Can Coat fans.
What I took from this video was the ease Can Coat comes out best on application. Adding the second layer after a longer curing edges it.
Car pro light would need more product if used with the block, where Can Coat would use far less with the spray.

Difficult to choose, although personally I would prefer the Can Coat and top up on a more frequent basis. 
Sure the "I use" brigade will lean their way as they do. For me both appear decent and will come down to personal factors. Such as time between washing and how often others like me would want to be more active adding to the coat.

Be interested in any views on what they took from this excellent review. :thumb:


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Dave50 said:


> I'm sticking with the block application, I'm not arguing with Sandro
> 
> Dave


Yep Cancoat is so versatile it is definitely possible and on my first couple of applications I tried this way and it is not a spreadable, slick product that you want to be crosshatching like a normal coating unless you have an extremely careful technique or you're willing to take hours to ensure everything is levelled.

Sandro's application test is in my view less relevant as it was on a very small area and if I remember on a dark panel. In the Esoteric video Jeff from Gyeon himself said the second you use a microsuede you no longer benefit from Cancoat's secret sauce, the fast releasing solvent allowing the super quick application. As soon as you get the applicator pad or suede out you may as well consider Mohs, Pure etc.. heavier duty, with a slower releasing solvent which is more visible on the panel, easier to spread etc.

With Cancoat I have really found less is more - it is difficult to avoid smearing if you are using an overloaded applicator or the same suede for the entire car. Using a folded up MF towel in eighths working quickly works very well and means there is very little residue to wipe because the applicator remains relatively dry. Combined with the second coat you can achieve similar performance minimising the chance of error considerably IMO.


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## the_jj (Apr 7, 2010)

What prep are you guys doing? I’m looking to do a full decon, then polish by hand. What polish have you guys been using or recommendations? I have lots of polishes and don’t want to spend out on more if I don’t have to. 
Thank you.


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## DIESEL DAVE (Jul 26, 2007)

Theres a guy on You tube applying cancoat to a wet surface with some success


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

My Can Coat has arrived this morning,I can't wait to try it and I will for my cars winter prep. I've recently had my cars windscreen PPF so I'm keen to see how well it performs.


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## DIESEL DAVE (Jul 26, 2007)

Soul boy 68 said:


> My Can Coat has arrived this morning,I can't wait to try it and I will for my cars winter prep. I've recently had my cars windscreen PPF so I'm keen to see how well it performs.


Mine too, £33 delivered from IODETAIL


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

the_jj said:


> What prep are you guys doing? I'm looking to do a full decon, then polish by hand. What polish have you guys been using or recommendations? I have lots of polishes and don't want to spend out on more if I don't have to.
> 
> Thank you.


Usual decon (APC, Iron, Tar (if req), clay (if req) regular wash, polish then panel wipe.

Gyeon Prep is fine, I use BH Cleanser Fluid now that my Prep has run out.


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## the_jj (Apr 7, 2010)

atbalfour said:


> Usual decon (APC, Iron, Tar (if req), clay (if req) regular wash, polish then panel wipe.
> 
> Gyeon Prep is fine, I use BH Cleanser Fluid now that my Prep has run out.


Thank you for replying 👍🏻


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## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

What do you do after maintenance washes to keep the can coat going strong? A QD or wet coat?

Or should you not really use anything?


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

ad_182_uk said:


> What do you do after maintenance washes to keep the can coat going strong? A QD or wet coat?
> 
> Or should you not really use anything?


It doesn't need anything really. Gyeon's maintenance products (Cure, WetCoat or Bathe+) will only mask the crazy beading at the level of Cancoat and don't bring anything gamechanging by way of slickness or gloss and they're pricey for what they are so I would avoid them.

I do use other brand ceramic coating toppers (posted plenty about them on here so won't dilute this thread) because I had them to maintain my year ceramic coating before I found the Cancoat/Moonlight category of products to do that with much better longevity. I will probably keep at least one in my arsenal because they perform well and it's nice to be able to put a fresh coat of something every now and then, even if Auto Foam degrades it within weeks rather than months.

Cancoat is such a strong performer and versatile that you could top it up after a half yearly major decon wash (or minor/spot correction) rather than topping it with any other products.


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## mangove21 (Apr 26, 2015)

Soul boy 68 said:


> My Can Coat has arrived this morning,I can't wait to try it and I will for my cars winter prep. I've recently had my cars windscreen PPF so I'm keen to see how well it performs.


Windscreen! That's interesting, how does that work then

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Soul boy 68 said:


> My Can Coat has arrived this morning,I can't wait to try it and I will for my cars winter prep. I've recently had my cars windscreen PPF so I'm keen to see how well it performs.


Didnt even realise you could get PPF for the windscreen, SB. Is it a specialised product?

Cheers

Cooks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Soul boy 68 said:


> . I've recently had my cars windscreen PPF so I'm keen to see how well it performs.


Wasn't aware this was a thing...

I presume you can't tell it's on there when driving ?


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Dave50 said:


> I'm sticking with the block application, I'm not arguing with Sandro
> 
> Dave


Good viewing,definitely peaking my interest...not something I've tried out yet, but might very well do so, only issue is not having a covered area to leave to cure...


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

Andyblue said:


> Good viewing,definitely peaking my interest...not something I've tried out yet, but might very well do so, only issue is not having a covered area to leave to cure...


I tried the block application & found it takes too long to apply. By the point you come to removing, it's already began to harden & more difficult to get off. 100% the best application method is a folded MF towel or MF applicator imo.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Brian1612 said:


> I tried the block application & found it takes too long to apply. By the point you come to removing, it's already began to harden & more difficult to get off. 100% the best application method is a folded MF towel or MF applicator imo.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


Cheers mate :thumb:

Tempting to try out Cancost...


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

Cookies said:


> Didnt even realise you could get PPF for the windscreen, SB. Is it a specialised product?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> ...


It's just a thicker version of PPF and once on you'd never know it's there. It's save my windscreen on many occasions.


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

Andyblue said:


> Wasn't aware this was a thing...
> 
> I presume you can't tell it's on there when driving ?


It's new to the market and well worth considering, I've had mine on for 14 months now and there are already two minor chips to the PPF caused by stone chips flying up and hitting my cars windscreen. By now I would have had to replace the cars screen if it wasn't for PPF. Once it's fixed on the screen you'll never know it's there, it's crystal clear. It's like having a screen protector for your I-phone.


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

has anyone use Gyeon primer before using this, or what else would be good to use before applying, and also what about washes going forward, top up with anything ?

also this would be my first ever ceramic, is their anything i need to know before i dive in


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

BRUN said:


> has anyone use Gyeon primer before using this, or what else would be good to use before applying, and also what about washes going forward, top up with anything ?
> 
> also this would be my first ever ceramic, is their anything i need to know before i dive in


Gyeon Primer would be a great choice to use before this and would extend it's durability beyond a year. I use CarPro Essence (similar type product) as I don't like dark purple tint of the Gyeon Primer and I wasn't buying it specifically for Cancoat.

It is an easy first 'ceramic' to use because you have a little more time to remove residue, any high spots caught within a short enough window can be levelled by adding more product (fresh carrier within). If you miss a spot it'll come off within 7 days with a medium cut polish using just a microfibre. Only thing to watch out for is overspray from the very fine trigger spray. Point away from your car, cup the microfibre close to the nozzle.

Maintenance washes/topping up is covered in earlier posts in this thread.


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

The within 7 days thing, what happens after that ?

Never used a ceramic ever and been mostly out the loop with this stuff the last few years

The car is white so not the easiest to spot residue/high spots etc

After using essence, do you wipe down with prep, or not ? Can't seem to make sense of some instructions, wiping down after using a product designed to prime the surface seems counter productive ?


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## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

BRUN said:


> The within 7 days thing, what happens after that ?
> 
> Never used a ceramic ever and been mostly out the loop with this stuff the last few years
> 
> ...


I know you can use essence and add their own products eg: Cquartz without a IPA/PW etc from the description but not sure if compatible with other products


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Christian6984 said:


> I know you can use essence and add their own products eg: Cquartz without a IPA/PW etc from the description but not sure if compatible with other products


It's absolutely fine - CarPro say that themselves too and have tested it. I left mine to cure then panel wiped but probably could have got away without the panel wipe as the cure time had elapsed.


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

atbalfour said:


> It's absolutely fine - CarPro say that themselves too and have tested it. I left mine to cure then panel wiped but probably could have got away without the panel wipe as the cure time had elapsed.


This is the point which confuses me, if you panel wipe, surely any benefit from the Si02 in the Primer, or CarPro Essence, will then be wiped away ?

But, if both Primer/Essence need a cure time after use, then the surface will likely need a clean anyway before applying the LSP


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## Lexus-is250 (Feb 4, 2017)

BRUN said:


> This is the point which confuses me, if you panel wipe, surely any benefit from the Si02 in the Primer, or CarPro Essence, will then be wiped away ?
> 
> But, if both Primer/Essence need a cure time after use, then the surface will likely need a clean anyway before applying the LSP


I believe to speed up the application of putting a lsp on primer you can use Gyeon prep immediately. Not sure about Essence. I used Tac Systems one essential which is a similar product and only left it a couple of hours at best. Didnt seem to have any ill effects with things bonding to it although I didnt wipe down with it.

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Lexus-is250 said:


> I believe to speed up the application of putting a lsp on primer you can use Gyeon prep immediately. Not sure about Essence. I used Tac Systems one essential which is a similar product and only left it a couple of hours at best. Didnt seem to have any ill effects with things bonding to it although I didnt wipe down with it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk


Mind you, didn't you have issues with Moonlight's water behaviour on top of it, I wonder could that poor beading actually be the One Essential because the Moonlight couldn't bond to it without a wipe down having applied it so quickly? If I remember right it was just one or two sections, could there be any correlation with the order you prepped the panels with One Essential so they had less time to cure? Moonlight is a really hydrophobic product so I'm just speculating.

In the past I have asked the panel wipe question with Essence too (fundamentally I believe they work very similarly, some *may* even be of a similar chemical make-up made in the same factory) - they say that it will not remove the SiO2 it leaves behind just the solvents or oils that otherwise gas naturally over the course of curing, but obviously the quicker you panel wipe the more chance there is that you're taking the SiO2 with it.


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## Lexus-is250 (Feb 4, 2017)

atbalfour said:


> Mind you, didn't you have issues with Moonlight's water behaviour on top of it, I wonder could that poor beading actually be the One Essential because the Moonlight couldn't bond to it without a wipe down having applied it so quickly? If I remember right it was just one or two sections, could there be any correlation with the order you prepped the panels with One Essential so they had less time to cure? Moonlight is a really hydrophobic product so I'm just speculating.
> 
> In the past I have asked the panel wipe question with Essence too (fundamentally I believe they work very similarly, some *may* even be of a similar chemical make-up made in the same factory) - they say that it will not remove the SiO2 it leaves behind just the solvents or oils that otherwise gas naturally over the course of curing, but obviously the quicker you panel wipe the more chance there is that you're taking the SiO2 with it.


Yes it was roof and bonnet on the wifes car that didnt take. Strangely those were the two panels that I completed first so had the longest to cure. The remaining panels are still going strong now some months later.

It was only when I saw one of the latest White Details posted ( black Porsche ) that I saw Jim do a wipe down straight after. So when I checked it was possible on that product.

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

rain seems very likely recently, Gyeon seem to recommend wiping down with Cure if their is a risk of rain, does anyone have any input if this will affect durability, seems likely


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Can I use Carpro Essence and Elixir QD if I don't have Gyeon equivalents?

Will this stand against Iron Removers and Tar Removers?


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## Berylburton (Sep 14, 2013)

sm81 said:


> Can I use Carpro Essence and Elixir QD if I don't have Gyeon equivalents?
> 
> Will this stand against Iron Removers and Tar Removers?


yes you can. 
I have used Essence under Cancoat with Carpro Reload on top. Always pleased.

I always reapply the Reload after using a tar or iron remover anyway. Just my routine more than anything


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

how likely is it that Gyeon Primer, and CarPro Essence are actually the same product, or very very similar

Gyeon say you should wait 24 hours after using Primer, to apply anything else, CarPro say with Essence you can apply something over it once you have finished the vehicle as long as you apply in the same direction, giving the Essence some time

I wont have the luxury of waiting 24 hours after Primer, so I plan to treat it like Essence and hope for the best, if anyone has done similar can you offer your input on doing this, cheers


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## A&J (Mar 4, 2015)

same answer as Bery...I use OPT opti seal as a curing agent just because its fast and easy to use...you really just need something to protect the coating for about a week although Cancoat cures very fast compared to true ceramic coatings. If you leave cancoat to cure for at least 4h its gonna be fine later on.


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

The chances are they are very similar, but I don’t know if they are the same. The question is, how long can you leave it between application of the primer polish and potential wetness?

Another option is doing the prep and polish one weekend, then a very safe wash and coat the next.

Also, this is Cancoat and not a 3 year coating so the issue with the durability and curing won’t be as critical as with a full blown coating so think of it more as a strong sealant. It will be more forgiving than MOHS for example, in terms of sitting on slightly uncured Primer. I would also suggest that you apply a second coat of Cancoat after your first wash which will hopefully be on a day that the second coat can spend 4 hours dry. This will maximise the chance that the foundations have cured as much as they will and the next layer will add to that and be as solid as that can be also.


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

roscopervis said:


> The chances are they are very similar, but I don't know if they are the same. The question is, how long can you leave it between application of the primer polish and potential wetness?
> 
> Another option is doing the prep and polish one weekend, then a very safe wash and coat the next.
> 
> Also, this is Cancoat and not a 3 year coating so the issue with the durability and curing won't be as critical as with a full blown coating so think of it more as a strong sealant. It will be more forgiving than MOHS for example, in terms of sitting on slightly uncured Primer. I would also suggest that you apply a second coat of Cancoat after your first wash which will hopefully be on a day that the second coat can spend 4 hours dry. This will maximise the chance that the foundations have cured as much as they will and the next layer will add to that and be as solid as that can be also.


thanks for the input, sometimes you just need someone else to offer you a solution you cant see for yourself

i think ill do the whole car with the primer, do can coat in the same order with a wait in between if the weather makes it possible, and at the next wash top up the can coat as suggested

if im shattered after doing the primer, then yea ill do the can coat the next weekend after a wash, even with the mrs helping sometimes going over the whole car takes it out of me and i have back problems so have to see if that starts kicking off mid session, plus this new car is about twice the size of my last one so a lot more to do than im used to


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

You are likely to extract better durability from Primer having given it the time to cure, coating a car (even with something as easy to use as Cancoat) isn't something you should do under any strain or with fading light.

My advice would be to let your Primer cure, give it a wash the following day ideally (or week assuming you haven't done big miles) then go round it with two coats of Cancoat an hour in between. If this is not possible, in the past I've left Essence a fortnight but the car barely moved in that time. I've also done what roscopervis is suggesting and applied Cancoat a few weeks apart due to fading light and seen no ill effects of this. Plenty of options..


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## The Guz (Jan 27, 2019)

There is some difference between Essence and Q2 Primer. Essence leaves fillers where Q2 Primer does not. 

According to the US rep for Gyeon, a prep wipe will not remove the SiO2 left behind by the primer polish. You can start doing so as soon as you go around the car to polish. 

He also states CanCoat can be layered 1 hour in between coats. And Cure to be applied 4 hours later. 

CanCoat starts to cure with min 30-45 mins. Tested this myself in an empty bottle cap. 

With Essence I would treat it the same in prep wiping it as some as your done going around the car to polish. 

The hear from from the polisher will set up the silica in both polishes.


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

The Guz said:


> There is some difference between Essence and Q2 Primer. Essence leaves fillers where Q2 Primer does not.
> 
> According to the US rep for Gyeon, a prep wipe will not remove the SiO2 left behind by the primer polish. You can start doing so as soon as you go around the car to polish.
> 
> ...


i contacted Gyeon directly about this, this is what they said

"The fundamental purpose of Primer is to improve the ease with which very soft paint finishes can be prepared for the coating application process. It does this by finishing down extremely well, and by doing away with the need for the subsequent wipe down with Prep. However, it only does the latter if the car is left for ~24 hours after the Primer is applied, which isn't usually an issue if you are working indoors.

In situations where it's not practical or possible to leave the car for 24 hours before applying the coating (which is certainly the case when working outside), then a Prep wipe down becomes strictly necessary (otherwise the coating won't bond properly to still curing SiO2 components). And, as you guessed, this does reduce the benefits of using Primer in the first place (personally I would only ever choose to use Primer when working indoors). Thus, in your case it might be better to use Polish instead, and simply go Polish > Prep > CanCoat (assuming the paint needs minor refinement before the coating is applied - if not then just go with Prep > CanCoat).

One last point; coatings are always best applied indoors, but you can usually get away with using CanCoat outside on a good day (warm, overcast, no wind, is optimal). With the autumn fast approaching you'll need to try to get it done asap, as once the daytime temperature falls and the weather becomes more unpredictable the chances of a successful application will diminish very quickly."


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## The Guz (Jan 27, 2019)

BRUN said:


> i contacted Gyeon directly about this, this is what they said
> 
> "The fundamental purpose of Primer is to improve the ease with which very soft paint finishes can be prepared for the coating application process. It does this by finishing down extremely well, and by doing away with the need for the subsequent wipe down with Prep. However, it only does the latter if the car is left for ~24 hours after the Primer is applied, which isn't usually an issue if you are working indoors.
> 
> ...


All of that is true with regards to the soft and finicky paints to avoid the prep wipe.

If I ever find that video again in YouTube I will post it. It had Jeff McEachran who is the US rep for Gyeon stating what I wrote.

It was a SEMA video.

Edit:

I found the video. Go to the 4 min mark


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

thanks, ill try and give that video a watch at lunch/tonight

I would think if Can Coat can be layered within an hour, i'd be ok to apply Can Coat over the primer, with an hour gap


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

i wish id chosen carpro now tbh lol, the gyeon info is so confusing, and for anyone without a garage a bit of a pain


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## The Guz (Jan 27, 2019)

Lol go ahead and use it. You will be fine with what I mentioned. You won’t lose much performance with the primer being prep wiped as Jeff mentions. 

You can always apply a second layer after your first wash.


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

The Guz said:


> Lol go ahead and use it. You will be fine with what I mentioned. You won't lose much performance with the primer being prep wiped as Jeff mentions.
> 
> You can always apply a second layer after your first wash.


Agreed.


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

thanks guys really appreciate the advice


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## scuba-phil (Feb 18, 2016)

is there a minimum temperature outside for applying can coat?


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## noorth (Jul 10, 2019)

I used gyeon primer on my fathers bonnet last summer. The next day i applied polish angel cosmic V2 paste sealant and topped with rapidwaxx or high gloss can't remember. 2-3mths later i topped it with rapidwaxx again. Its doing fine. All this was done outside.

Most if not all coating brands recommend using there products inside. Just not an option for me. I applied 2 coats of carpro flyby30 over 3 mths ago now it cold and windy conditions. Its holding up fine.

I'm going to apply carpro Uk and Nv Nova Evo sometime this year. I will know for sure how doable its to apply coatings outside then. If i get a solid year of durability i will be happy. Thats all i want anyhow. 

Gyeon is a complicated brand for sure. Not a fan personally. Even though i really enjoy gyeon primer.

Interesting fact: Gyeon is a Korean surname according to wikipedia.


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

in the end with this, i did go with Carpro instead as the instructions/application were easier in my situation


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## scuba-phil (Feb 18, 2016)

essence first then can coat? did you leave essence for a period before applying?


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