# How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera



## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera



> *Due credit where credit is due*
> This article was originally written by me, (Mike Phillips), and posted to MeguiarsOnline on *May 28th, 2006* and it can be found here,
> 
> *How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera*
> ...


A few tips and techniques for helping your camera to focus on the surface so you can capture the defects in the paint you're hoping to remove.

*Finger Pointing Focus Technique*
Besides figuring out the right camera setting for your specific camera, another quick, simple way to help your camera focus on a defect you're trying to capture with a picture is to simply place your *index finger* close to the defect on or hovering over the finish then carefully captures a few pictures and in most cases you'll get a couple you can use on the Internet. This works for Swirls, Scratches, Etchings, Water Spots both Type I and Type II, Stains, Oxidation, etc. Basically anything on the surface. The reason you need to give the camera something to focus on is because often times when taking shots of a large, uniform, flat surface, once any focus points are zoomed out of the picture your camera has nothing to sense and focus on.

*Detailing Clay*
You can also use a little piece of detailing clay because in most cases you have some detailing clay around. If the paint is clean and it should when trying to capture pictures of surface defects, then when you're done taking your pictures you should be okay to put the little piece of clay back into the large piece you took it from or just through it away. A small piece will work fine. (See picture below).

*Coin*
A coin can also be used if the surface is flat and horizontal like the hood. Place the coin carefully onto the paint so as not to instill a scratch. If you already have a flawless, swirl-free finish then maybe stick with the finger or clay technique. If you're getting ready to buff the car out then as long as you're careful you'll be okay; remember you're going to be buffing out the paint and likely the defect you're trying to capture with a picture.

*Photos courtesy of MeguiarsOnline.com*

*Cobweb Swirls or Cobweb-Effect*









*Cobweb Swirls or Cobweb-Effect*









*Cobweb Swirls or Cobweb-Effect*









*Detailing Clay*
Another way to help your camera focus on a surface defect is to place something on the surface of the paint, for example in the below picture we placed a small piece of detailing clay on the paint, then let the camera auto focus and wa-la, perfectly captured swirls, scratches and a bird dropping etching in the paint.










*Random, Isolated Deeper Scratch* 









*An Isolated Bird Dropping Etching*









All the above photos were taken by me when I worked for and ran the Meguiar's Online Discussion Forum using the finger focusing technique to help your camera capture defects on the surface in focus.


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## Bezza (Oct 6, 2010)

Sounds easy enough, but can be tricky to get the focus and exposure right with a compact camera or phone.
Should be easier with this, good info thanks.


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## M3skins (Apr 25, 2011)

Good info was trying to take some pics last night unsuccessfully. I'll now try your technique, 
Cheers


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## mattsk1 (Aug 8, 2007)

Really useful tips, thanks Mike.

A similar technique I sometimes use to get my camera to focus more easily on smaller paint defects is to stick a piece of 3M blue masking tape or equivalent next to the blemish I want to photograph… Cut the tape at an angle to create a small triangle, then stick it next to the mark/blemish so it’s ‘pointing’ at the area you want to focus on, like an arrow.

Works particularly well for compact cameras with autofocus and is very useful on vertical surfaces where you can’t place an object and clay might not adhere easily. Also very good for lighter coloured paintwork.

I used this method to mark out defects for removal after I’d prepped and taped up my old silver Volvo 240 estate (which I use as a bit of a test mule) prior to machine polishing… Meant that not only could I capture decent pictures of paint damage, swirls, stone chips, etc, but I was also able to quickly find those areas I’d identified for extra attention and move round the car doing spot corrections before going over the whole vehicle with a general polish.

Remember to take before and after pictures with the arrow in place before you remove the tape so you can compare and see results of your work 

Only wish I’d remembered to photograph (or even video) the quite incredible holograms I found on the bonnet of a mate’s black Beemer when the sun came out after I’d cleaned it ready for a de-swirling polish… Multi-coloured buffer trails that appeared to be several feet deep - It was like watching 3D TV! Needless to say they're gone now :thumb:


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

mattsk1 said:


> Really useful tips, thanks Mike.
> 
> A similar technique I sometimes use to get my camera to focus more easily on smaller paint defects is to stick a piece of 3M blue masking tape or equivalent next to the blemish I want to photograph…
> 
> Cut the tape at an angle to create a small triangle, then stick it next to the mark/blemish so it's 'pointing' at the area you want to focus on, like an arrow.


Great tip! Whatever it takes to help the camera get the important portion into focus is what it's all about.



mattsk1 said:


> Only wish I'd remembered to photograph (or even video) the quite incredible holograms I found on the bonnet of a mate's black Beemer when the sun came out after I'd cleaned it ready for a de-swirling polish… Multi-coloured buffer trails that appeared to be several feet deep - It was like watching 3D TV! Needless to say they're gone now :thumb:


I agree. In fact, I think getting the "before" pictures is more important than the "after" pictures because once you buff out the car you can never go back in time to get the "before" pictures.

In fact... wrote a little article about this topic here,

*The power in the after shots is created in the before shots*

*Before*









*After*


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## mattsk1 (Aug 8, 2007)

Thanks Mike. And thanks for the link - I know you've written and posted lots of useful articles, many of which I've pored over before attempting any serious work on a car and all of which I'm sure have been of great interest to people on this forum.

Nice turnaround on that old Ford, really does pay to take before and after pics, ideally from the same angle. Bet the owner was very happy.

Most of my work is done outdoors - not ideal for a number of reasons, such as having to move the vehicle around to keep it out of direct sunlight and find shade, and hoping we don't get any of that other type of British weather, rain...

From a photography PoV I find most of my 'after' pics tend to be taken in the late evening as the light is failing, so not the best conditions for taking good shots - I often miss the best time of day to capure the really reflective, wet-look, glossy images that I'd like. Must start earlier in the day or work faster! :buffer:


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

mattsk1 said:


> Most of my work is done outdoors - not ideal for a number of reasons, such as having to move the vehicle around to keep it out of direct sunlight and find shade, and hoping we don't get any of that other type of British weather, rain...


Been there done that, never any fun. That's why I always appreciate any type of cover or shelter.



mattsk1 said:


> From a photography PoV I find most of my 'after' pics tend to be taken in the late evening as the light is failing, so not the best conditions for taking good shots -


My normal time for buffing out an average car is a range from 8 to 14 hours, that means if I start early in the morning it's dark when I finish and if the car is a long distance from where I live I'm not driving back just to get the "Sun Shot".

So I hear you on the after pictures taken in the dark...

:thumb:


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## mattsk1 (Aug 8, 2007)

Mike - I imagine with your experience and the amazing results you've achieved over the years that you've got a pretty comprehensive portfolio of your work already, before and after shots included!


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## Kotsos (May 7, 2011)

What is the best angle to detect the swirls and rds to white and silver color? I don't know where to place the halogen lights and camera.


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