# Strumble lighthouse Sunset



## buckas (Jun 13, 2008)

From a few weeks back










5D2 & 17-40/4 - LEE 0.9 hard grad & LEE 0.9 ND

cheers

drew


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## Keith_sir (Jun 27, 2011)

Thats awesome.


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## chillly (Jun 25, 2009)

Top work Drew:thumb:


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## awallacee30 (May 4, 2011)

Awesome pic ! Wish I had the hardware to be taking shots like that.

Nice work mate :thumb:


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## GIZTO29 (May 8, 2009)

Love your composition here Drew. Lovely sky aswell!:thumb:


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## MR Ray (Jun 29, 2007)

What are you doing that I'm not?

If I was taking that photo I wouldn't get the same result. 
I would probably put my camera on aperture priority f8-10, 18mm and set ISO 400. 

Or

Full manual. f8-10, 1 second exposure, ISO 400, 18mm and focus on horizon. 

No filter cuz I don't have any or understand them


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## bretti_kivi (Apr 22, 2008)

This stuff is *really* hard to do as the sun is just on the edge of blowout and you have one, maybe two shots at it. It's 13s @ f18 @ ISO100, if I read the EXIFs right; reduce the 13 by three stops for the .9ND.

f18 means at 25mm you can focus at 3m and everything's sharp.

The sky is only possible like this with the filters. This is why he's a pro.

on the photo itself: like the composition - the clouds on the right are a great bonus 

Bret


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## Guest (Oct 11, 2011)

Really superb photo :thumb:

Out of interest, would the photo look much different without the 0.9ND and reducing the exposure time by 3 stops? I understand that a longer exposure time will cause a greater blurring/smoothing effect on anything moving. Would it have any other effect?


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## bretti_kivi (Apr 22, 2008)

smooth the clouds, the waves, the grass... there's a lot moving in this kind of shot. I'd also suspect that the sea would not look natural at 4s or so. Which is crazy... 

Bret


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## MR Ray (Jun 29, 2007)

bretti_kivi said:


> This stuff is *really* hard to do as the sun is just on the edge of blowout and you have one, maybe two shots at it. It's 13s @ f18 @ ISO100, if I read the EXIFs right; reduce the 13 by three stops for the .9ND.
> 
> f18 means at 25mm you can focus at 3m and everything's sharp.
> 
> ...


so in English 

13 seconds - 13 deduced by 3 stops is 10 seconds? correct???
f18
ISO 100

now somebody tell me about filters please :thumb:


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## Leemack (Mar 6, 2009)

Nice shot mate


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## bretti_kivi (Apr 22, 2008)

Hard grad line is normally that, hard. A soft one changes over maybe 2-3mm. Filter pics: http://teamworkphoto.com/shop/index...7_78_767_277&zenid=f4gfp8bjv4ul7us85h54hetas2
The really difficult bit is not necessarily the exposure for most of the pic, it's making sure the sun doesn't blow out. And I suspect very strongly that a lot of the detail has been dragged back in PP....

Bret


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## MR Ray (Jun 29, 2007)

Wow

thats some info there. 

I fully understand all that now but now do you decide on the setting to use or you just bracket every photo until you get the picture you want?


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## bretti_kivi (Apr 22, 2008)

nope. I'd personally work with the approximate exposure and then work out what happens with the ND and then take it so far down that the sun is no longer blown out. I didn't do this in June and it's extremely annoying that I have an otherwise excellent shot with a blown-out sun. Even 1/500 might not be fast enough.

Checking the histogram for blinkies would have solved this one - it was at 4am and I had time to re-take, but I didn't do it.

Bret


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## MR Ray (Jun 29, 2007)

that's interesting.

I sometimes struggle to get everything exposed correctly and im finding it difficult with my ageing Nikon D50 tiny screen


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## bretti_kivi (Apr 22, 2008)

doesn't matter - if it's blown, it's blown and *you can't get it back*. There's detail in RAWs you can barely imagine, in the dark bits - but blown is gone.

Histograms will tell you this, as will the "blown highlights" or "shadows" blinkies. Set them, use them, they can help enormously.

Bret


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## maestegman (Mar 3, 2011)

Beautiful image


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## MR Ray (Jun 29, 2007)

bretti_kivi said:


> doesn't matter - if it's blown, it's blown and *you can't get it back*. There's detail in RAWs you can barely imagine, in the dark bits - but blown is gone.
> 
> Histograms will tell you this, as will the "blown highlights" or "shadows" blinkies. Set them, use them, they can help enormously.
> 
> Bret


Time for some YouTube video to learn how to save an over exposed photo but i don't think my photoshop opens NEF (Nikon)


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## Guest (Oct 12, 2011)

Photoshop should open NEF. In fact, it should pop up with ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) which is great for tweaking all sorts of setting before converting it to Photoshop's own format.

Over-exposed and "blown" images are very different. In the later, you will just not be able to recover any detail.


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## n_d_fox (Apr 18, 2007)

Drew... cant say anything about this pic technically but i can say that it pushes my buttons... i'm a lover of autumnal colours, sunsets and anything with a bit of water in it so this just does it for me :thumb:


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