# Mitsubishi EVO VIII FQ-340 - Clearkote Red Moose Glaze



## Jim W (Feb 3, 2007)

*Mitsubishi EVO VIII FQ-340* - Protection Detail..

A friend brought over his newly purchased EVO VIII for me to have a play with.. Now, our spec wasn't 100%, but, I'd get as much done on the paint as I could in one hit (So why only the 'Protection Detail'? More on this later…)

The forecast looked pretty dire - rain and possible thunderstorms. Great! (…the one day I forget my waterproofs too)

After lots of head scratching and different pad/polish combos, this was the process I stuck too..

*Process*
• Wheels/Tyres & Arches cleaned
• Pre-wash/Rinse
• Two-Bucket Wash/Rinse
• De-tar/clay-bar session
• Water sheeted to aid drying/dried
• Limeprime / CK Red Moose Glaze
• Lay down some protection
• Seal wheels / Dress tyres / Dress trim / Treat britework

Wheels/Tyres & Arches
- Rinsed
- Megs Super-degreaser onto tyres and scrubbed
- Megs Wheel Brightener onto alloy facing and into dish - additional Degreaser onto Callipers
- Callipers and nut-housings cleaned with a fine detailing brush
- Inner rim of the alloy cleaned with an EZ Detail Brush
- Spoke behinds were cleaned with a wheel mitt, as were the rest of the flat faces
- Arches flooded with G101 and agitated with a Vikan Brush - rinsed

Pre-wash / Wash stage
- Body wetted with mist from pressure washer
- Snow-foamed and left to dwell for 10 minutes
> Previous polish residue build-up removed at this point (panel gaps, badges etc)
- Foam blasted off the vehicle, taking loose debris and grit off with it
- Re-foamed with Valet PRO ph neutral and buckets filled
> Two-Bucket wash: One rinse bucket. One solution (CG Maxi-Suds II) bucket
- A panel washed at a time - wash mitt returned to rinse bucket often (remove lifted particles)
- Shampoo solution rinsed and vehicle prepped for de-tar/clay bar session

Decontamination 
- AS Tardis sprayed liberally on lower quarters and alloys; softened tar deposits. Residue wiped away with clean microfibre
- A Mild clay-bar helped lift bonded contaminants
- ONR mix from a pressure sprayer used to lube the paintwork
- Dried with mega plush Miracle Dryer and using 'pat' technique

Cleansing
- DoDo Juice LimePrime used to A) Cleanse. B) Polish. C) Nourish.
- Clearkote Red Moose Glaze used to add depth/wetness
> both applied by hand and applicator pads

Protection
- A thin coat of Victoria Concours applied. A second to follow later..
- Chemical Guys JetSEAL901 used to seal the wheels
- Belgom ALU used to clean/protect the britework

Dressings
- Tyres with CG New Look Trim Gel

*Pictures*

Upon Inspection..










Generally, looked quite presentable - obviously looked after in its previous life

Get a little closer however and it's pretty grubby:





















































There were massive amounts of polish residue built up in all badges/gaps/crevices etc.. This alone will take some time to fix..

First though, I'm going to set up and get the wheels/callipers into shape..

The wheels themselves weren't particularly bad, just a bit of pitting building up in the corners and the random tar deposit. The callipers were quite dark and dismal though - these would require some attention fo' sho


























Mix of Wheel Brightener, Super Degreaser, G101 and various brushes.

It all came up rather nicely..










Next? Get rid of the nasty chalkie white polish build-ups..










Before:









After:









The front-end had a dousing of G101 too to help loosen the kamikaze bugs..










Now going back to the wheels, AS Tardis used to melt the tar deposits..










Wiped clean and rinsed before commencing bodywash.

This is the third time I've got drenched already..










Rinse - Snow - Rinse - Snow - Wash - Rinse - Tar - Clay

































A few rough areas on the paintwork that the Sonus Green lifted but, in all, relatively 'clean'.

From starting the wheels, to finishing the claying stages, I'd already spent 2 hours 40 minutes on the car.. (I'd not even done door-shuts/sills either..?!)

As the sun had disappeared behind the dark clouds, I had to use the camera flash to locate the random swirls/defects..



















Although still protected well from its previous life, it had obviously seen a pretty rough wash procedure..

So inside, taped up and measured:

















Ah.. Right!?

The bonnet, o/s doors and both wings had seen paint. The n/s front wing had also..

I admit, whilst removing the polish build-up, I noticed one side of the front bumper sat lower than the other. A possible front-end shunt maybe? The car was purchased HPi clear - no word of any damage in the past.

It's around here my day started to go downhill..

First, my Kestral SIM-180 packs up. It's as though the wire going into the handle has a very poor connection. At some angles, it works, but it can judder and stop/start - this is no good.

So, blowing the dust off of the PC, I tried the same 3M Polishing pad/Limeprime combo as before. It was nice to get my hands on the PC for once.. Certainly easier to use on the EVO than the Rotary was - funny angles/smaller areas etc.

HOWEVER… I've always learnt Jap (Honda/Mitsubishi etc) paint to be soft. Going back to one of ahoydock's reports, I'd like to follow the same steps - the CTR that he left was simply stunning. The polish (205 I think)? Followed by the CK RMG and Victoria Concours left some awesome results. This, I hoped to replicate.

Limeprime in on the 3M Polishing pad left some pretty great results! (Due to paint softness etc) Yet come the time to remove the residue off of the paint with a clean, fresh, soft microfibre, I couldn't help but induce my own markings..? This irritated me somewhat rotten. It left me stumped - different pad/polish combos.. Try X-amount of other clean MF's to lift the Limeprime off, but, no.. Nothing I could do would escape inducing said swirl marks back INTO the paint. RUBBISH. Hands up, I failed here. I didn't know what to do.. It was literally like butter.

I'd like to say it was down to the panels being re-sprayed? The worked areas showed readings of 190+. Can anyone help with OEM readings on EVO's? The other panels, I had some 110, 130 up to 170 readings but, 240/290um has to of had some work - Am I right?

After wasting lots of time walking round in circles, I made a phonecall and discussed the issue with the owner, Dan.

It was left that I should do what I can in terms of polishing but to get a good couple of layers down for protection. Time pushing at this stage already…

SO. Limeprime with the soft, red side, of a German Applicator pad followed by the Red Moose Glaze on a different pad. It did give pleasing results, sure, but there was so much more to be had!

Lancer badge before with the white chalking..









After.. (missed a bit!)









Put the EVO outside to see how it's looking pre-wax..







































































The pads I used showed colour-transfer from the single-stage paint










Finally all sealed in with x2 coats of Vic Concours wax










Exhaust inner before:










Inner after:










Box before:










Box after:










'MR' badge had been stuck on at some point - quite a messy job..










That's about it I'm afraid! A challenging day - certainly didn't enjoy it. I met Dan later in the evening and explained my findings - if anyone can tip us on ideas/what to do, it would be great.

Lots of photos after a GLOS wipedown..





























































































































































Total time, 7hrs 40mins. (20 mins was spent at the end with a ****tail stick taking the polish build-up removal even further!)

Thanks for reading

Jim


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## The Cueball (Feb 8, 2007)

Sounds a right nightmare... just goes to show that even the experts like yourself can still get thrown a curveball now and again!!!

Still looks good to me though...still a great finish on it IMO...

:thumb:


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## Refined Detail (Nov 27, 2006)

Nice work all the same matey despite the issues you've come up against.

The only cloth I've found ok to use on paint that soft (Honda Civic's and Aston Martin DB9's) are these:

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=14&products_id=538

and the drying towel version:

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=14&products_id=520

and plenty of QD. Is a PITA but is the only way to do it to avoid inducing new defects imo.

Nice work on the exhaust too :thumb:


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## Rowan83 (Aug 21, 2007)

Paintwork looks gorgeous! The RMG works so well!! :thumb:


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## Jim W (Feb 3, 2007)

The Cueball said:


> Sounds a right nightmare... just goes to show that even the experts like yourself can still get thrown a curveball now and again!!!
> 
> Still looks good to me though...still a great finish on it IMO...
> 
> :thumb:


An expert!? 'Expert' is a big word!  We're all still learning.. Hopefully, I'll be able to take away something from this and then next time, I'll atleast have a better understanding of what's going on! :thumb:



Rich H said:


> Nice work all the same matey despite the issues you've come up against.
> 
> The only cloth I've found ok to use on paint that soft (Honda Civic's and Aston Martin DB9's) are these:
> 
> ...


Thanks for that Rich.

Yeah. Having peeped at the exhaust box, I couldn't leave it dull and dirty.. 



MatrixGuy said:


> Paintwork looks gorgeous! The RMG works so well!! :thumb:


Thanks MG. I was pleased with the RMG - next time, I'm going to have to try by DA application..


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## ChrisJD (Apr 15, 2009)

Excellent result and a great write-up.

Chris.


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## toni (Oct 30, 2005)

Great work!

I'm loving the last couple of pictures.


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## Shorty (Jan 27, 2008)

Paintwork looks sweet, that is a truely stunning car

Nice work


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## Robmgti (Jun 26, 2009)

Very nice, Evo paint is pants  I know owning one!


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## Puntoboy (Jun 30, 2007)

Looks awesome.

Is the owner an short 12 year old looking lad?


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## Gleammachine (Sep 8, 2007)

Sorry I missed your call yesterday Jim, the outcome looks very good though.

I have only ever done 3 Evo's, 2 with completely original panels and paint, readings generally around 110-120 um's average, the bonnet and lower door edges usually read up to 20-25 um lower.
The original paint is generally med hardness and not too bad, of the panels that I have polished with fresh paint it has been like butter.
The problem with used Evo's are they do generally see some paint in their lifetime, for the red one I had done last August the owner requested I ealuate the paint before he bought it, so full PTG readings were taken and documented, luckily only the top of the bootlide had seen some paint.

Glad you got there eventually, hope it didn't cause too much stress.:thumb:


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## Jim W (Feb 3, 2007)

Puntoboy said:


> Looks awesome.
> 
> Is the owner an short 12 year old looking lad?


lol.. going on your avatar, you know him through "the mint" - his Punto GT etc.. :thumb:



Gleammachine said:


> Sorry I missed your call yesterday Jim, the outcome looks very good though.
> 
> I have only ever done 3 Evo's, 2 with completely original panels and paint, readings generally around 110-120 um's average, the bonnet and lower door edges usually read up to 20-25 um lower.
> The original paint is generally med hardness and not too bad, of the panels that I have polished with fresh paint it has been like butter.
> ...


Thanks Rob.

Interested to see what happens really with the paint problems.. I think there will be a friendly phonecall over the weekend to the previous owner - see if he can shed any light.

It really was a mind-numbing experience.. nothing 'I' could do could have helped the situation.. Will have to look into the ultra fluffy towels as suggested by Rich above.

Really was quite difficult to capture the 50/50's on camera too - strange that. Weird colour to photograph..


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## N8KOW (Aug 24, 2007)

Stunning Jim, AS ALWAYS.


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## Puntoboy (Jun 30, 2007)

Jim W said:


> lol.. going on your avatar, you know him through "the mint" - his Punto GT etc.. :thumb:


I know him from well before the mint 

Car does look stunning though. Good work. :thumb:


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## Simonez (Apr 14, 2008)

looks great mr JW!

awesome write up as usual! and great work!


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## Tunero (Jun 4, 2008)

N8KOW said:


> Stunning Jim, AS ALWAYS.


I have the same opinion, is a pleasure see your post and learn of you.


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

very nice again Jim, fair play for persisting with the nightmare paint:thumb:


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## scooby73 (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice work!:thumb: Enjoyed the write-up and photos too!

Stunning car!


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## GIZTO29 (May 8, 2009)

Amazing finish! Can i just ask when youre using the mitt in one of the early pics is that at the 2nd snow foam stage? Just there seems to be lots of foam or is it from the Maxi Suds? 
Thanks Phil
Oh, with regards to the Kestrel there'll be a break in the cable where it goes into the machine. It happens all the time with grinders, sanders and dynafiles at my work. OPen it up, cut a few inches back and rewire it, sorted!:thumb:


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## Jim W (Feb 3, 2007)

GIZTO29 said:


> Amazing finish! Can i just ask when youre using the mitt in one of the early pics is that at the 2nd snow foam stage? Just there seems to be lots of foam or is it from the Maxi Suds?
> Thanks Phil
> Oh, with regards to the Kestrel there'll be a break in the cable where it goes into the machine. It happens all the time with grinders, sanders and dynafiles at my work. OPen it up, cut a few inches back and rewire it, sorted!:thumb:


Hi Phil

Lets see..










Indeed.. this was the vehicle's second snowfoam application.. (ValetPRO ph Neutral) The solution bucket was filled with maxi-suds II, but, for greater lubricity/safer wash, I opt for this method (only takes a few additional minutes too (and, there always seems to be left over foam in the lance that would only go to waste otherwise :thumb)

RE the Kestral, thanks for your thoughts. It is exactly what was wrong.. Reason being, my toolbox is only just big enough for the piece to sit in - thus, 'crunching' the cable up and obviously causing a split.. oops. Kestral re-wired - job done. Tool-box had a junior-hacksaw put up against it.. made a nice 1" groove down the side for the end to stick through


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## rsrob (Apr 12, 2009)

Looks very good


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## Davek (Jan 9, 2008)

Lovely work on a lovely car.....Dan is on a site with me and he posted this up for us to read.


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## dsms (Feb 1, 2008)

Looks stunning! Love the way you organized the pics as well, and RMG is one of my favorite glazes for reds and blues! Killer work


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## GIZTO29 (May 8, 2009)

Jim W said:


> Hi Phil
> 
> Lets see..
> 
> ...


ha ha, thanks for the reply mate! Im in the 'learning curve' at the minute Glad you sorted the DA!:thumb: It happens all the time when the leads are wrapped round the machine eventually Thanks again phil. Awesome work btw!:thumb:


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## Curtiz (Aug 11, 2006)

This brush you are using, been after one for a while but cant find out what they're called. Any help please? 

Great work, looks fantastic now 

Edit: Pictures not showing, its the brush that you use to remove the polish residue


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

top work Jim!

being cheeky now, but I may have to borrow your PTG soon


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## dps1973 (Dec 18, 2008)

Very nice :thumb:


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## James_R (Jun 28, 2007)

Good work here Jim on a tricky detail. :thumb:

Beautiful work on that exhaust!


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## gestev (Jul 1, 2009)

Yup, t'was the exhaust that really caught my attention too! Great work on the whole motor!


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