# Porter Cable 7424 : Starters Guide



## Dave KG

In this thread I aim to present some general guidance tips for people who have recently bought a Porter Cable 7424 and describe the machine a little! 

*The Porter Cable 7424*
Browsing this forum, you cannot help but notice that the PC7424 is extremely popular. It is a dual-action polisher that is safe to use and can remove paint defects to help you achieve that sought after swirl free finish. Its a popular tool owing to hte dual-action nature which makes it very safe to use, much safer than a rotary in the hands of a novice. Yet swirl removal is still possible with it, so you come close to getting the best of both worlds! 

The tool in all its glory:



*What Is A "Dual-Action" Polisher*
Dual-action describes the way that the pad moves with the polisher, and the dual-action nature is what makes the Porter Cable 7424 (and 7335) a speical tool. Shown in the diagram is the difference between a conventional rotary polisher and a dual-action polisher:



The conventional rotary pad spins on a single axis, forming a circular orbit of constant radius. This nature makes the rotary quite an agressive tool with the ability to cut paint quickly - while this makes it more effective at swirl removal, it also makes paint damage a real possibility in the hands of a novice.

The dual-action pad not only spins, but it oscillates as well developping random orbits, with varying elliptical orbits. This makes the cutting action much less aggressive and much safer for novices to use. The motion very closely mimicks hand polishing, only the 7424 can oscillate up to 6000 times a minute, which is completely impossible by hand!!  This fast oscillation generates much more heat than by hand to more effectively break products down and cut into the paint.

*So Many Polishes - Which to Choose??*
Once you have you're PC, you are confronted with a daunting array of polishes from a wide variety of manufacturers. At the end of the day, all of these products can be summed up into groups that carry out certain tasks:

_Compounds_
These are the most aggressive cutting polishes and are generally applied by rotary polisher to deal with severe swirl marks and scratches. You can use a compound on a PC but it requires a 4" pad to generate enough heat to effectively break the product down. Examples of compound: Menzerna Power Gloss Compound, Poorboys SSR3. Only choose a compound if your paint has very severe swirl marks and the cutting polish is proving unsuccessful in dealing with them.

_Cutting Polishes_
These are medium abbrassive polishes that are designed for the removal of medium swirl marks in paint. They can be applied on a 6" pad, or for extra cutting ability, a 4" pad. Only choose a cutting polish if the swirls in your paint are too severe to be removed by a light cutting polish. Examples of cutting polishes are: Menzerna Intensive Polish, Poorboys SSR2.5, Meguiars #83.

_Light Cutting Polish / Finishing Polish_
These are light abbrassive polishes that are designed for finishing - ie use after a more aggressive polish or compound to remove any marring that may have been left by the more aggressive product and to restore surface gloss. The can be applied on a 6" pad. Examples of light cutting polishes are: Poorboys SSR1, Meguiars #80.

_Glazes_
These are essentially moisturisers for paint! They add paint oils to replace depleted oil and to wetten the shine and deepen the colour and are a highly recommended part of the detailing process. Examples of glazes are: Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze, Meguiars #7.

For further information on which polishes to choose for swirl removal, see also this thread: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/showthread.php?t=4536

*What Pads to Choose??*
There are four main classes of pads available from manufacturers and these are colour coded so you know which pad is which. Alas, different manufacturers use different colour codes! The texture of the foam effects what the pad does - ie how much it cuts etc. Summarised in the table below is a breif guide to the uses of the classes of pad:



If you are using Lake Country pads, the colour coding is as follows:

Yellow = Cutting; Orange = Light Cutting; White = Polishing; Black = Finishing.

If you are using Sonus DAS pads, the colour coding is as follows:

Orange = Cutting; Green = Light Cutting; Blue = Polishing/Finishing

If you are using Sonus SFX pads, the colour coding is as follows:

Yellow = Cutting; White = Light Cutting; Blue = Polishing/Finishing

If you are using Meguiars pads the colour coding is as follows:

Burgandy = Cutting; Yellow = Light Cutting/Polishing; Beige = Finishing

For further information of which pads to choose for a specific task, have a look at this thread: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/showthread.php?t=4536

Note that the above table is intended as a starters guidance only, and over time you will find out which pad and product combinations that you like best!

*Setting Up The PC7424 For Use*
Getting ready to use the Porter Cable... If you turn the Porter Cable upside down, you will see the following:



Make sure that if you are planning to use 4" pads that you have the counter-weight for 5" pads fitted. Some pCs are now being supplied with a 6" counter-weight which will make the machine very hard to control with a 4" pad fitted. 5" counter-weights are available from http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk if required.

First off, choose the correct backing plate for the pad you intend to use - 3.5" backing plate for a 4" pad, 5" or 6" backing plate for a 6" pad:



First off, fit the backing plate to the Porter Cable. Using the flat spanner supplied with the machine, hold the centre nut as shown:



Now, screw the plate into the thread in the middle of this centre nut while holding the nut still with the spanner to prevent it from spinning with the pad, and tighten the backing plate continuing to hold the centre nut with the spanner:



The pads fit to the backing plate using a velcro (sometimes called "hook & loop") system so just stick the pad securely to the backing plate, trying to keep the plate in the centre of the pad area.

Once the pad is fitted, you just need to plug the PC in and you're ready - make sure you use a transformer however!! Plug the transformer into the mains (230V) and plug the Porter Cable into the 110V output of the transformer:



Never plug the PC straight into the mains, this will damage it irreperably!


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## Dave KG

*Polishing with the PC7424*
The key to successful polishing with the PC is to work on small areas, and take your time. What follows is a generic guide to polishing with the PC, as you work with the machine you will develop the technique that you feel most comfortable with, this is aimed at being a starting guide.

To hold the PC, I like the place my right hand over the head of the PC and have my left hand at the back of the PC:




This allows me to put pressure over the polishing pad while the PC is in use, and pressure is required to get decent swirl removal (but not too much, see later!)

First off, apply the polish to the pad on the PC, in either an X (which stops three quarters of the way out from the centre) or a circle round the edge of the pad, about quarter of the way in from the edge.

Next, with the machine switched off, smear this across a small area of about 2' x 2'. Make sure you can comfortably reach the hole area and that you are not stretching too far - the more comfortably you can reach areas the happier you'll be operating the tool. A small ladder is useful for doing the roof, especially if you're short! After spreading the polish, turn the machine on at about speed 3.

Do a single fast pass with light pressure over the pad to further spread the polish out.

Then turn the machine up to speed 5, and make a single slow pass with pressure applied over the pad. Move the PC at around 2cm per second in either a fore and aft motion or a figure of eight motion, what ever you are most comfortable with providing you achieve even coverage. (I prefer a fore and aft motion).

Next turn the machine up to full speed - speed 6 and make several slow passes with pressure applied over the pad until the polish begins to dust. At this point, switch off the machine and buff the residue away with a microfibre towel. If the residue resists easy buffing, a little spray of Quick Detailer spray on the mf towel should help remove the residue more easily.

_How much pressure??_ - apply about 10 - 15lbs of pressure. To get an idea of what this feels like, you can get out the bathroom scales and puch down till it reads 10 - 15lbs plus the weight of the PC. Or, I much prefer the following: push down on the PC until you get a noticebale change in pitch from the machine and the pad stops visibly spinning, it is just oscillating. Then reduce the pressure ever so slightly so that the pad begins to spin again, and this amount of pressure is good.

*Glazing with the PC7424*
The PC can be used for other tasks than polishing. Glazing really benefits from using the PC as the extra speed of the PC over hand application works the oils in glazes nicely into the paint. I find the following process works well for applying glazes:

Apply product to pad (as above for polishing, X or circle) and smear over a small area. Turn machine on at speed 3 and make one fast pass to spread the product more and then one slower pass to begin working the glaze into the paint. Then turn the machine up to speed 5 for two or three more slow passes. All with light pressure over the pad. Then buff off residue with an mf towel.

*Applying Liquid Waxes & Sealents by PC7424*
The PC can cut down the time taken and effort required in applying liquid waxes and sealents! Again, apply the product to the pad as the glazing or polishing stage above. Turn then machine onto speed 2 or 3 and move the PC slowly across the paintwork to spread the product evenly. Fast speeds are not required for this process. Always observe the manufacturers recommendarions for the time left for the product to cure before buffing off residue.

*Applying Paste Waxes by PC7424*
Even some paste waxes can be applied by the PC, though, many people prefer to apply these by hand. If you wish to apply by PC, follow the process for liquid waxes and sealents above. Most pastes waxes can be popped out of their containers, just rub the wax round the PC pad to charge the pads up, a but like buttering a piece of toast! Again observe the manufacturers guidelines for the length of time the product should be left to cure.

And there we have it! If you've just bought a PC, I hope you find this guide helpful in getting started. You will develop your own methods with experience (for example the speeds you like, the pad and polish combos you like) which may differ from those here, what ever works for you, go for it! I hope you enjoy the tool that I consider to be one of the best detailing purchases I ever made!


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## ayr320cdmsport04

:thumb: 
Well done m8!
Gr8 wee guide 4 us PC wannabees!
I`m def gonna get one for my bmw sapphire black metalic faint swirls/cobweb etc,so could u help with wot pads/accessories/polish etc i need for the best look on a black car? Plus do u all meet up in scotland for demo`s advice etc? if so would b up 4 meeting if off work and volunteer my car 2 ur capable hands if u wanna show ur skills off! 
Can`t wait till summer 2 have a go at :buffer: :buffer: :buffer: :buffer: 

Cheers again gr8 guide.:car:


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## L200 Steve

Another superb guide there Dave.:thumb: 

Well done mate, this'll be a very useful link for all the new PC owners out there:buffer:


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## Naddy37

Dave, a great guide....:thumb: 

I'm thinking of getting a PC for the summer, but wasn't really sure if it was as suitable just for applying glaze and wax etc as it is for swirl removal.

Now I know for sure, and will be getting a PC for sure...:thumb:


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## geri

great guide Dave  just what i need :thumb: been thinking about getting a pc for ages and your guide is really helpful to get a better idea of what it's all about.

Nearly bought one last year but got persuaded out of it by a friend who insisted i'd ruin the paint on my car! and that it was no different to a rotary that he had  so your guide is a big help to me :thumb: cheers


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## steeleez

Superb write up mate, I've got snippits of instruction's from different sites but yours covers them all, big well done and a big THANKS!!!


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## MattBennett

Cheers Dave! Will have to get one bought great guide. Will be using it soon!
:thumb:


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## nick_182

As everyone above said mate, thaks very much for all of your recent guides, they are a big help


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## Mini_Nigel

Dave KG said:


> Polishing with the PC7424


Great stuff Dave, but I don't think you'll get a shine on that shag-pile 

Nige


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## brett.b10

Dave ,
Thanks for the valuable information,
brett


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## BENJY

superb info mate!
nice one:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:


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## Dave KG

Cheers guys, glad you're finding the guides useful.


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## smiler

Dave your a star matey :thumb: my PC is due any day now this will be a great help cheers Andy


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## M40COO

Excellent Dave - 
Although you may want to add info about the spacer washer to be fitted to the backingpad before going onto the PC...otherwise people will have trouble getting the spaner out !

Cheers


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## Throbbe

Once again, good work. Probably doesn't add anything to what I'd gleaned from other guides, but you do have a knack for explaining things clearly. It's taken me 3 PC sessions to start getting the hang of pressure and speed and being fairly confident I'm working the polish for the right length of time. I think if I'd read that before I could have saved a bit of time!

I'd also add something about keeping the flex away from the car. Wrapping around my forearm then over the shoulder seems to work for me.


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## Dave KG

M40COO and Throbbe, excellent points that I forgot to mention about the washer and the flex! Cheers.  :thumb:


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## andburg

top stuff!!!


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## dubbers

Great guide!


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## Rasher

great write up Dave, I am going to have to get me one of these!!


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## richie.guy

Nice little write up.

Can't wait to give it a go :buffer:


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## philster_d

is there a printable version of a detailing guide anywhere ?

I hate running in and out of my bedroom to double check a detail or two.

A nice printout I can get messy with in the garage would be ace....

thanks,
Phil


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## typefern

Hi

Copy and paste into word, nice printable copy for the garage

John:buffer: :buffer:


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## philster_d

OK that worked, i didnt think I could copy the pictures like that too.

Thanks,

Phil


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## Dave KG

Glad to see that it can copied into word, as I have lost the actual file that I created this guide in...


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## mba

Thanks for the guide as a newbie to detailing this guide will save a lot of questions


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## Wobbly Dave

excellent - will be using it to do mine this w/e


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## vpricey

Cheers Dave, your guide's ace!!:thumb: I've just ordered my Pc from Autopia so will be receiving it soon!! Can't wait to get polishing now, your guide has cleared up some wee questions i had wondered about too!!:buffer: 
Cheers!!


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## frazman

useful guide thanks. My PC came with a 6" counterweight - i notice thta you recommend the 5" if i'm going to use a 4" pad for cutting. My question will the 5"counterweight work OK with a 6" pad or should I swap back to the 6" c/w?

Also fitting the c/w? do i just unscrew or should i watch/do anything esle.

many thanks


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## v-g

frazman said:


> -snip- My PC came with a 6" counterweight - i notice thta you recommend the 5" if i'm going to use a 4" pad for cutting. My question will the 5"counterweight work OK with a 6" pad or should I swap back to the 6" c/w? -snip-


Wondering that meself.


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## Dave KG

For counter weights, IIRC Porter Cable recommend 5" counter weight for all automotive polishing. However, many members here get on fine with the 6" counterweight and 4" pads - they may experience a little more vibration than with the 5" weight but I haven't heard of anyone having severe problems with it. I would try out the 4" pad with the 6" weight and see how you get on, you may find that you are perfectly happy and don't need to switch to the 5" weight... If you do choose to switch to the 5" weight however, which is what I have fitted to mine, then you can use this with 4", 6", or 7.5" pads with no problems at all.


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## frazman

thanks - and is it simply a case of unscrewing the existing c/w.


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## Dave KG

Its held in by two screws... they look like they have a tamper-proof head, but a normal screwdriver will take them out.


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## frazman

thanks


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## v-g

Thankyouverymuch!


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## Versoman

super write up Dave, mine is on the way so reading madll at the moment
cant wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumb:


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## Nuclear Tom

Superb guide Dave. I think you should have some kind of Guru status on here by now!

Cant wait to be able to afford one of these PC puppies... he he.


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## ChuckH

Nice write up Mate THANKS !!


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## tommy

Hello Dave,

This is my first time posting on this website. I have seen a lots of reccomended to use PC-7424 for polishing and wax. So it more interrested to me to get one.

I want to buy PC-7424 to use in Thailand But really not sure about performance of PC-7424 when plug-in to transformer to reduce power down 240VAC --> 110VAC is will working?? 
(Coz in Thailand the power electric is 220VAC 50Hz)

Could you have suggestion on this? 

Thanks very much.


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## Chris_J

PC will be fine in a 110V transformer as it's come from the States anyway, which is 110V supply. You'll blow the thing up else


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## tommy

Thanks Chris


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## Jim W

good stuff, cheers.


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## Mutton

Excellent guide - should help me massively when I eventually get a PC!

Cheers.


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## GamalLear

I've a question. Looking at the Sonus SFX spot pads on Autopia it states: 

"Pad speed in excess of 750 RPM is not recommended without proper training."

I thought the slowest the PC went was 2500 - anyone shed some light on this?


Also, while I'm on the subject, what's the difference between the Sonus SFX pads and the Dual-action pads?


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## Dave KG

The PC oscialltes rather than rotating... so the PC's minium speed is 2500OPM which is much safer than just a rotation... the rotation speed quoted there is for a rotary polisher.

The SFX pads are stiffer pads than the DAS ones, I find them better myself as they have a better cut than the DAS pads and so are more effective with abrassive polishes at removing paint defects.


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## GamalLear

Once again, thanks for the full and helpful reply. Although a complete novice to PC detailing (I've given myself RSI, so it's time to move on!) I'm thinking of going for the SFX pads and just go for a lower speed setting.

What's the best way to wash the pads - do you need to get a specialist cleaner, or will a spin in the washing machine at 40, with a non-bio (and no softener) do the trick?

Cheers


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## Dave KG

I use Fairy Liquid to clean my pads - hand wash them in the sink with Fairy to remove product residue then rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry once you have squeezed out the majority of the water.


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## Jim W

Great write-up mate. Came in very handy.

I gave my A3 a seeing to on Sunday with the PC, see below...










I love the depth it has there in the picture, but I struggled with the paint correction.. Up close in bright lighting, you can still see the swirls and slight etchings; bugger. I applied some product, worked in a 2' x 2' area, spread the polish (Sonus SFX-2 (?)) worked a bit with speed 3 (although it really didn't seem to be doing it for me?) I was applying 'some' pressure, enough so that the pad wasn't spinning - it didn't feel right. Is this correct? Then worked it in at speed 5 for several passes and applied pressure with speed 6.

It's the 'working in' process I didn't get. How long should a door (for instance) roughly take to fully correct the paint? (with PC..)

As I said, I'm pleased with the result, but I still need lots of practice in Paint Correction (it was only my first go!)


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## Dave KG

The SFX-2 is quite a mild polish, and the paint on Audis is generally pretty hard, so this may be part of the reason you were not getting much in the way of defect correction... I would consider trying a polish such as Menzerna PO85RD3.0x on a cutting pad (yellow Sonus SFX, or orange Sonus DAS pad). Spread the polish at speed 3 as you did, then up to speed 5 to work in the polish with about 10-15lbs of pressure (enough such the pad is still spinning though), then up to speed 6 for final passes and keep working until residue goes clear- will take several minutes. I would also reduce the work area a bit to 18" square max. HTH.


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## paddy328

Great guide.


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## Pat

Hey, I'm feeling confident (brave) enough after reading this excellent guide to venture forth and purchase a PC.

I need to remove swirl marks from my black Ovtavia L&K and had been having absolutely no success by hand.:wall: 

Pat


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## Lotustuart

Useful info, thanks


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## Lotustuart

Useful info. thanks


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## twhincup

Thanks for the guide, going to really usefull when I get my pc


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## darms

Great info, just have to get my PC.


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## bobreilly

Great write up, hopefully test it out soon.


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## Shailan

This is brilliant. I am borrowing a PC for the long weekend and am going to buy the pads and polish tomorrow. Thanks.


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## Gromit

Many thanks for the guide.

I've just bought my PC and intend to clay and polish my car soon with SFX3 and 2. I couldn't get any SFX1 final polish so I'm going to use Maguiars Gold Class finish wax instead which I have already.

My question is, with liquid final waxes and the PC, do you apply the wax and continue with the PC until the wax is clear?. Or is the correct method to simply apply the wax to spread evenly (saving manual arm-work), letting it dry, then buffing off?.

Many thanks


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## Dave KG

With waxes where you are not trying to break the product down or work it into the paint, just two or three passes on a low speed is all you need.


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## Gromit

Thanks Dave, I thought that might be the case.


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## 172gaz

Dave KG said:


> The SFX-2 is quite a mild polish, and the paint on Audis is generally pretty hard, so this may be part of the reason you were not getting much in the way of defect correction... I would consider trying a polish such as Menzerna PO85RD3.0x on a cutting pad (yellow Sonus SFX, or orange Sonus DAS pad). Spread the polish at speed 3 as you did, then up to speed 5 to work in the polish with about 10-15lbs of pressure (enough such the pad is still spinning though), then up to speed 6 for final passes and keep working until residue goes clear- will take several minutes. I would also reduce the work area a bit to 18" square max. HTH.


First post!!! Right i understand that bit. I have a pc coming through the post any day now. What i dont understand is do you keep the same pad from start to finish or swap pads for say final passes etc? Cheers


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## Dave KG

172gaz said:


> First post!!! Right i understand that bit. I have a pc coming through the post any day now. What i dont understand is do you keep the same pad from start to finish or swap pads for say final passes etc? Cheers


Same pad for the whole process with a single product - ie do all the passes at all the speeds using the same pad. The minute you cfhange product though, change pad, eg going from a heavier abrasive to a lighter abrasive you would go from a cutting pad to a polishing pad for example.


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## beggers

Dave Great write up, just convincing me more that i need to make a purchase very very soon. 

Any advise on whats pads i should get first? Looking at getting the SFX pack from autopia, any additonal pads/products should i get? Initially will use to apply light polish and glaze, possibly wax, and finishing off, although have a few chips and scratches that i hope will be cleaned up with it. What C/B coms with the PC? is it def a 5" ?

Think over the next few months, my GF will have a very clean car as I practise on hers first 


Cheers

Paul


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## Dave KG

Pads wise mate, the SFX are a great choice - while you are ordering I would gt a spare of each of the SFX pads in 6" size and also one of each of the SFX pads in 4" size for getting into tight spots easier, along with the 3.5" backing plate to use them - I believe there is an SFX spot buff kit on Autopia which would be ideal.


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## 309Goodwood

Just got my PC also, So thank you for a great write up :thumb: , 
the info here has been invaluable !! Cheers !! 

Is a 1.5 kva transformer enough for the PC or am i gonna need 3 kav ??

thanks in advance again


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## Dave KG

309Goodwood said:


> Just got my PC also, So thank you for a great write up :thumb: ,
> the info here has been invaluable !! Cheers !!
> 
> Is a 1.5 kva transformer enough for the PC or am i gonna need 3 kav ??
> 
> thanks in advance again


1.5kVA is more than enough - 750VA is all that is really needed but they dont sell that size anymore so most will get a 1kVA. 1.5kVA will more than suffice.


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## Chris20vT

Great write up, some useful tips for me to try next time I get the PC out! Some helpful hints go a long way, although I did find the PC easy to quickly adopt to and find whats most comfortable, anyone worrying about using one, don't be!! Read guides like this and you'll soon find it second nature.


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## Slick 77

Top write up and got some good tips, I've used my PC on 2 cars so far so still getting the hang of it. 

Will also look into getting a 5" counterweight as I was getting a few vibrations with the 6" SFX pads and maybe some 4" pads soon.

cheers,
Vik


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## Captain Morgan

Great write-up again Dave, still not sure I'm ready to have a pop at the Merc  but its getting closer


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## wd40

Really great write up now i fully understand what the pc is and does.

I now know whats going on the list to santa !!!!! :thumb:


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## evojkp

Very good write up mate.


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## brend1705

Brilliant write up mate and a great help for a beginner like me self.


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## simonc4

I have gone as far as I can with manual polishing so reading this guide is a great help in convincing me I need to machine polish


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## ianc61

Another useful guide, just need the polisher now


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## rad_brad

picking my pc up tomorrow and this has been a great help and look forward to trying it at the weekend


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## mr v6

Having borrowed a PC yesterday, I'd read this guide a while ago, also been watching some vids on youtube, I got to grips with this tool from the word go, it did what I wanted it to do, not like the rotary which did it's own thing.

Tonight I was outside getting rid of some more severe surface scratches, job done and so each to work. Rotary is sold, just waiting for the UDM now.:buffer:


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## Djw John

Good advice, cheers mate  Getting closer to payday therefore a PC! But also borrowing one very soon so this is useful thanks


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## fergy

excellent guide. thanks for sharing


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## JonoST2

Fantastic review, the reason why I'll be buying a PC come pay day :buffer:


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## Gunn79

Hope this is the right place to ask;

I received my PC today, wired it up, put the backing pad and a pad on, plugged into the transformer to check it was all working ok. My question is, how noisy should the PC be?? As well as the mechanical 'whir', mine seems quite noisy, alsmost a metalic rattle?? Is this normal, or do i need to adjust something??


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## Kazuya Mishima

Mines sounds exactly as you have described, metallic rattle! I'm not sure about it, going to check the tightness of all the screws etc before I use it for the first time this weekend!


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## sebastian

Can i buy it from Malaysia?


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## Phill J

Thanks for that guide, I am about to embark on a purchase and will find this most usefull. I noticed you never mentioned a handle does the PC not have one.
Thanks PJ


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## DavieK

Excellent guide there Dave as i'm about to use a PC for the first time:thumb:


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## fil_b

hey thanks for the guild, i ordered a UDM and shoudl be here next week

been thinking tho, you can use the 4" pad for cutting, and 6" for applying wax's.

But when you apply either a 2 stage cut or 2 coats of wax, what do you buff it off in between?? is it the black pad or just use microfiber cloths??

thanks phil


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## Skee

Great guide!


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## eXceed

Megane230F1 said:


> Thanks for that guide, I am about to embark on a purchase and will find this most usefull. I noticed you never mentioned a handle does the PC not have one.
> Thanks PJ


Yeah it comes with one which you can either place on the left or the right :thumb:


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## mattjonescardiff

Finally getting my UDM this week and I'd just like to say thankyou to Dave KG for his fantastic guides. Thanks for taking the time to put them together Dave!


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## mattjonescardiff

fil_b said:


> hey thanks for the guild, i ordered a UDM and shoudl be here next week
> 
> been thinking tho, you can use the 4" pad for cutting, and 6" for applying wax's.
> 
> But when you apply either a 2 stage cut or 2 coats of wax, what do you buff it off in between?? is it the black pad or just use microfiber cloths??
> 
> thanks phil


Remove residue with microfibre cloths Phil, never a foam pad.


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## JamesnDaz

just a quickie, ive just put on a 75mm backing plate, with 4 inch pads, now everything seems a little wobbly and outta control, is this expected with the 5" counterweight ?? 

Cheers


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## Dave KG

JamesnDaz said:


> just a quickie, ive just put on a 75mm backing plate, with 4 inch pads, now everything seems a little wobbly and outta control, is this expected with the 5" counterweight ??
> 
> Cheers


It shouldn't feel overly different to running with the bigger pads and plates, but some tools have been known to vibrate more than others.... I'm not sure if there's a smaller weight as the bigger 6" weight would probably not help matters...


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## meeerrrk

ive read this guide, and many of your others over the last couple of weeks and am now happy i have a basic understanding to use my newly purchased PC (2nd hand from a chap from this forum)

thanks for sharing all your info with us!


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## addsvrs

Great guide 

Thanks


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## David

just read it there, fantastic guide.

Will make me feel a little easier knowing im doing it correctly now!


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## Tom_O

Cant believe you have a guide for everything! So helpful!


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## kenmac

Great guide.


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## barnicles

excellent guide


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## cheshiresport

Read the guide on first page and must say its very helpful. I got myself a pc7424 off ebay a bit cheaper than it would have cost from the states. The guy had only used it once.

The pads that are with it are red, yellow and white. They dont match the colours of any set on the first page. Was wondering if anyone knows what they could be as i obviously dont know which pad is for what.

Thanks in advance


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## -Kev-

holy thread ressurection! you can start new threads btw 

depends what make they are as one makes red pad could be for finishing and another makes red pad could be for polishing - for example


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## black_civic_si

great write up. just order 7424 xp


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## Turkish_

This is great as i am just about to start using this exact polisher. Very helpful thread, much appreciated


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