# Hydrate 80 or Deox-Gel?



## VenomUK (Oct 13, 2011)

So I'm freshining up the back end of the daily and found some bad corrosion. I've given it all a good poke and its solid. Going forward, which is the better product for this underside of the body?

Hydrate 80 or Deox-Get?


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

Hi,

They are different products with different use cases.

Deox Gel is to remove rust, so you could use multiple applications of that then use Hydrate 80 to convert the last of the rust then prime over.

Or you could mechanically remove the rust using wire wheels etc, again then using Hydrate 80.

Hydrate 80 won't convert or stop or slow down a lot of deep rust (by deep rust I mean if it can be removed by a wire wheel/brushe down to mostly metal, then it's too deep).

Really ideally, you want it looking mostly shiny.


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## Tintin (Sep 3, 2006)

I'd get on that with a wire cup in a drill or a power file. Once the surface rust is gone you will have a better idea how bad it is. As Starbuck says, Deox gel is a rust remover and Hydrate 80 is a rust converter. They are both really good products and if you've already got both I would use both. Deox gel will remove even pitted rust with multiple applications - tape cling film over it so it doesn't dry out. Then Hydrate 80 over any remaining rust.

If you haven't bought either, I guess it depends how much you value the car, budget etc. If I had to choose one only, I'd do as much rust removal as possible by hand, then Hydrate 80.


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## grunty-motor (Aug 11, 2016)

some bits hard to get to i guess?

i'd brush/scrape the loose stuff and then convert it (hydrate/kurust) and then coat it (UC/ACF50)


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## Ennoch (Jan 31, 2006)

The key with whatever you use is to get all the loose stuff off so that the convertors can work on the stuff that's part of the solid surface below. Converting the loose bubbling won't help you long term as there will still be a void between the bubbles/loose stuff that moisture will get into and continue to corrode. A Dremel with a Flexi attachment is useful for getting into the really awkward bits but that does limit the size of brush attachment you can use. I'd convert with gel first and then once that's clean use the Hydrate 80 to seal and convert anything you couldn't quite remove before overcoating as @Grunty-motor suggests with something like Dynax. That said I'd use UB over UC as the clear isn't as long lasting as the brown.


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