# Quick detailer as drying aid - techiques?



## JoeyJoeJo (Jan 3, 2014)

I see a lot of mention of this but would like to hear about any specific techniques as there seems to be a lot of different approaches.

So...

Car has been washed and rinsed, reasonably protected so not too much water on the surface...

QD - straight or dilute? Ratio?

Towel - waffle, MF or plush MF?

Action - pat, pat & buff, swipe, buff?

Any tips for success?


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## Blueberry (Aug 10, 2007)

JoeyJoeJo said:


> I see a lot of mention of this but would like to hear about any specific techniques as there seems to be a lot of different approaches.
> 
> So...
> 
> ...


Answer in order of your questions.

1. Depends on the QD used. Some don't dilute but C2v3 as QD 1:5 diluted or CG synthetic QD diluted any way you want.

2. A drying MF towel so plusher but folded in half, then half again and the towel spayed with the QD to stop marring.

3. Pat and a swipe (turning the towel to a clean side for each panel)

4. Don't over apply. Just a spray or two a panel.

4.


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

Hi Joey,

You could try the techniques shown in this thread. Ignore the thread title,
that's for use when there's no salt around.

At all costs, avoid using a _dry_ microfibre towel!

Regards,
Steve


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## JoeyJoeJo (Jan 3, 2014)

Thanks guys, appreciate the tips on not using dry towel.

How "not dry" are we talking about - light spray on dry towel or wet and wrung out?


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## Yellow Dave (Apr 5, 2011)

If you're pat drying, then a dry MF towel makes no difference to needed a damp one in my experiences.

If swiping there is a risk, dependant on towel and technique, that you can marr the surface and is adviseable that a lightly dampened towel helps the towel glide over the paint. If using a quick detailer as a drying aid, dependant on how it is used this will act as a lubricant and a dry towel can be used to swipe over as you would normally.

Depandant on how you use your quick detailer as a drying aid affects the above.

I personally use a water based QD, something like demon shine diluted works well and is very cheap, provides good lubrication without affecting your LSP or the absorbancy of your towel. after initial wash or rinse, I would mist the entire car with diluted demon shine. There are two ways in which you can approach it form here.

1 - Some people will now run an open hose over the panel already sprayed with drying aid and this will sheet 90% of the water off, leaving a very small amount of water on the panel. with this a gentle pat down is all that is needed.

2 - the other option is to leave the wet panel misted over with your chosen drying aid, and gently swipe in small areas with your MF towel. if you have the dilution correct with QD to water it will still act as a lubricant and a good quality towel and gentle technique will see minimal if any marring.

You can use a QD neat, but isn't always needed and for cost reasons may be diluted with water and still be efficient. As said a water based QD seems to work best in my findings. Some may use it for topping up protection, which can be done with the likes of C2, but this won't last as long as if C2 was applied to a dry car as the wet car will dilute it a little.

There is no correct way, but is down to finding a way that best suits you and your chosen products whilst minimising damage as much as possible.


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## weemax (Sep 30, 2008)

Apply demon shine (from bucket) next wipe down with last touch & a drying towel. Works everytime.


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

JoeyJoeJo said:


> Thanks guys, appreciate the tips on not using dry towel.
> 
> How "not dry" are we talking about - light spray on dry towel or wet and wrung out?


1 light spray of QD is all you need to lightly dampen your towel. :thumb:


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## year (Feb 8, 2013)

Dry is friction so,, friction is marring...


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## Rowe (Jul 4, 2013)

I apply sonax xtreme shine to a just rinsed car and pat dry. Doesn't really seem to be any need to add another coat on em it's dried tbh


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## Yellow Dave (Apr 5, 2011)

year said:


> Dry is friction so,, friction is marring...


Not necessarily, no.

Do you use a lubricant every time you buff off a polish, glaze, sealant or wax?


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

year said:


> Dry is friction so,, friction is marring...


its not that but microfibre can not work to its best ability when it is bone dry. its said if you use a microfibre cloth slightly damp its also anti bacterial as it can pick up the bacteria. you can do a test to show the difference between dry and slightly damp cloths. simply put one of each on a wet serface and you will see the damp one will absorb fast and a larger amount


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

Yellow Dave said:


> Do you use a lubricant every time you buff off a polish, glaze, sealant or wax?


Unlike some QDs, these products will have a certain amount of lubrication in
them. If you find it difficult to remove a wax that has been left on for too long,
it's quite probable that you'll use either a replenishing coat or a QD to assist
in removal. That's because the oils that assist in buffing-off have disappeared.

What you will also have is an assurance that the paint below has been fully 
cleaned. When drying after washing, you have no such assurance, indeed, quite 
the opposite! How often do you find small pockets of dirt after washing? That's
another reason to use a drying aid...

Friction might not always equals marring, but dry MF friction can or will cause 
some unwanted static 

Regards,
Steve


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## shaneslatcher93 (Oct 13, 2013)

My personal preference is - 

1. Sheet as much water off with gentle stream of water from hose.

2. Use my Damp drying towel 

3. Spray 2/3 squirts of Ammo Hydrate to microfibre and wipe in straight lines

4. Wring out as much water as possible and spray again with hydrate.

I was surprised how well Hydrate works, it is my go to product and wont use anything else but it from now on.


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## WhichOne'sPink? (Dec 13, 2011)

Maxolen Rinse Aid :thumb:


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## JoeyJoeJo (Jan 3, 2014)

Thanks all 

Plenty of things to try there, will be having a go over the weekend as the weather looks ok for the first time in a while!


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## JoeyJoeJo (Jan 3, 2014)

Could not get the car dry today at all 

Foam, rinse, shampoo, rinse, mist 3:1 QD, MF dampened....

Just felt like I was moving the water/QD around, MFs were picking up moisture but just couldn't get to the point where I could buff, got through half a dozen decent sized MF and gave up.

It was very cold, could that be a problem?


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## Yellow Dave (Apr 5, 2011)

Are you using a microfibre drying towel to dry, or normal microfibres?

I'm yet to see the need in misting QD over your drying towel if you have already applied QD as a drying aid to a wet car


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## GreyLeonFR (Mar 17, 2012)

I always notice a difference when the weather is very cold. It's almost like the panels steam up just when you get them dry. 

If you can afford it and it's convenient get an electric dryer like a sidekick blaster. In cold weather on a properly protected car there's virtually nothing left on the panels and they are great for the gaps that trap water.


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## year (Feb 8, 2013)

Try to do 1 spray per panel,, 1st start with the smaller one's, and in the end the big one's,,, think less is better....


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## shaneslatcher93 (Oct 13, 2013)

I have found hardly any difference between 'drying towels' and normal 'microfibre towels' only that drying towels are alot bigger, so generally hold more water.. 

I wring out my microfibre after every 2-3 passes as it collects water so fast..

and when i mean use a 'dampened' microfibre its best to get the cloth completely soaking wet, as much water as it can hold and then wring it out so there's no water in it, just damp? (if you understand that  ) will pick up water better that way..

Chemical Guys Hybrid 7 is also a very good detailing spray to use a drying aid. leaves a streaky finish but just go back over with dry MF and its perfect. one panel at a time does the job!


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## jcooper5083 (Jun 10, 2018)

Great thread here and interesting read.

Anyone used Koch Chemie FSE as a drying aid in the methods mentioned such as applying to the drying towel?

If not what products are good for drying aids?

Many thanks


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## Fireball411 (Jul 31, 2016)

I tend to use bilt hamber qd diluted down

I have tried Autobrite berry blast and ONR but not as good as bilt hamber,not tried FSE yet but economically it doesn't compare to bilt hamber unless it can be diluted like BH 

I generally wash the car then stray over the car while still wet and gently wipe with a large drying towel


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## OvEr_KiLL (Mar 2, 2015)

jcooper5083 said:


> Great thread here and interesting read.
> 
> Anyone used Koch Chemie FSE as a drying aid in the methods mentioned such as applying to the drying towel?
> 
> ...


https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=414266


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## jcooper5083 (Jun 10, 2018)

OvEr_KiLL said:


> https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=414266


That's me referencing FSE as a great QD. Not drying aid....

Hence the question.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## v_r_s (Nov 4, 2018)

GreyLeonFR said:


> I always notice a difference when the weather is very cold. It's almost like the panels steam up just when you get them dry.
> 
> If you can afford it and it's convenient get an electric dryer like a sidekick blaster. In cold weather on a properly protected car there's virtually nothing left on the panels and they are great for the gaps that trap water.


I hate that when the panel steams up after drying, any good ways of stopping it, looks like hazed wax


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## Mutley75 (Apr 7, 2019)

I use a DI resin filter on my hose to achieve pure 0ppm water. The problem is, washing two cars every week, I seem to get through the resin very quickly. After washing the cars, I rinse with the jet wash first (straight off the tap) then do a final rinse with the DI resin to avoid water spots even in direct sunlight.

The resin only seems to last (in terms of 0ppm) for the first 3-4 weeks of use. Thereafter, it's still much softer than normal tap water and still helps achieve a spotless finish as long as I dry it fairly quickly - but on a sunny day that's not always possible and at £45 for 5L it's not overly cheap.

Then I saw this - 




Incredibly annoying as this guy is... I want whatever he's got! Using that stuff and the DI Resin will help it last a bit longer and avoid me trying to dry the car at 1000 mph.

He did a follow-up video where he said what the chemical was - PDMS or something? Anyway, is there anything similar which is readily available and recommended by you guys? Autoglym Aqua Wax or Demon Shine for example? Will they work as well as the stuff he's using in the video?


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## VenomUK (Oct 13, 2011)

Is there any chance that the quick detailer stopping the performance of the drying towel? The wax from the QD attaching to the fibres of the drying towel and rather than it soaking up the water it prevents the towel from absorbing the water?


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