# collinite.why so scary ?



## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

i have just applied my second layer of collinite 476s and i have to say its so much easier than i ever envisaged.my only other experience was with nattys blue (which was easier to buff off granted) and i was looking for something hard wearing for the winter (not sure we had a summer) and after reading and debating (dave kg`s wax test started all this off lol) i went with the 476s.i like the fact the mouth of the tin is huge as opposed to the nattys,the 476 doesnt smell as nice (nattys had that bubblegum fresh  ) and its been pretty easy going.

i used these hand applicators (as i did with the nattys)

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessories/handi-grip-applicator/prod_30.html

and just used two half turns (one clockwise,one anti clockwise) and that was enough for the bonnet and some of the front end.im a complete noob at this stuff and i was a little intimidated by some of the comments about collinite being a bit of a hassle to get off compared to others.but as long as your not dolloping it on i would say its pretty good to apply and buff off.after just one coat the beading was lovely as well.not sure i would go back to th enattys to be honest after the 476s.


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## Evil Twin (Jun 15, 2008)

Yea I'd second that. I find 476 very easy to use:thumb:


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## Liverpool-Lad (Jun 27, 2006)

No problems here too,


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## timmyboy (Jul 6, 2008)

Evil Twin said:


> Yea I'd second that. I find 476 very easy to use:thumb:


 only a ball break if you put it on too thick!!
all the collys go a long long way!!!


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## Auto Finesse (Jan 10, 2007)

how ware you applying ? whole car or panel at a time?


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## ianFRST (Sep 19, 2006)

yeah its only a nightmare if you put too much on and leave it. then you will see why some people have a problem with it :lol:


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## Auto Finesse (Jan 10, 2007)

I seem to be doing half a car at a time with it to save it being a pain (always very very thin coats) i have trouble and end up marring some times if i do the whole thing and come back around on a big car.


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## Silver R26 (Jul 19, 2008)

I used it for the first time recently and found it easy to apply and remove although I did get over confident with it and put some on too thickly. I then realised why some people dont get on with it. After that i went back to nice and thin and come off easily again. I was thinking about buying another variety of wax but for the meantime I will be sticking with 476, was pleased with the appearance it gave a silver car as well.


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

james b said:


> how ware you applying ? whole car or panel at a time?


i did the bonnet,roof and tail (i have an 08 mondeo btw) then waited to test the old "finger swipe" test.once the test was passed "god bless the person who told me to swipe my finger through the wax to test its readiness) i just buffed off with a costco MF.i then did the drivers side and wing mirrors,then did the passengers side and finally the front.i could probably do the front with some of the other panels but i wasnt in a rush as the weather looked like it was going to hold out.


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## CleanYourCar (Jan 23, 2006)

The key really is to make sure the surface it is bonding to is really well prepped. It makes application of any wax especially collinite so much better.

Thats why we always recommend a good pre wax cleaner before applcation like Carlack nano to shift any contamination.


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## mazda3_daveg (Jul 17, 2008)

silverback said:


> and just used two half turns (one clockwise,one anti clockwise) and that was enough for the bonnet and some of the front end.


Man - I must be putting it on way too thick - takes me several wipes to do the bonnet


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

im not saying my technique is the way to go,but several wipes seems quite high.saying that the hand applicators i use are bigger than average, so maybe that's why i only do two half turns.i learnt my lesson with the nattys.after being very cautious with the bonnet i got carried away with the roof and went well over the top.i havent been that ****y with the 476s and i thinks that's why it paid off.


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## mazda3_daveg (Jul 17, 2008)

I used to use Nattys blue too before moving on to #915. Ble was so easy to remove I was probably putting way too much on but not being punished for it. I have found the #915 much harder to buff off - and now I know why.

Can't wait to have another go - will be much more careful this time.


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

mazda3_daveg said:


> I used to use Nattys blue too before moving on to #915. Ble was so easy to remove I was probably putting way too much on but not being punished for it. I have found the #915 much harder to buff off - and now I know why.
> 
> Can't wait to have another go - will be much more careful this time.


if there is one term that suite collinite it should be "a little goes a long way" infact they should have that on the tin lol.


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## ahaydock (Jan 4, 2007)

The key to Collinite is nice thin even layers and not left too long :thumb:


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Always thin coats and I find Collinite to be trouble free as a wax - get it too thick, and its less forgiving... keep the layers thin and you can wax on, wax off or wax on and leave for a while then remove.

To avoid marring from tough residue, use a little quick detailer as this will soften up dried thick residue - never use heavy pressure or the dried wax residue will easily marr.


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## carensuk (Aug 31, 2007)

I find it a pain applying it on Silver as you can not see where you have done, especially thin layers


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## mazda3_daveg (Jul 17, 2008)

Dave KG said:


> never use heavy pressure or the dried wax residue will easily marr.


It gets worse!


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## ditchp (Sep 10, 2008)

good reading this as i have just brought the colly's 915 to have a go with, will deffo use it sparingly after reading this method....:thumb:


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## carensuk (Aug 31, 2007)

Dave KG said:


> Always thin coats and I find Collinite to be trouble free as a wax - get it too thick, and its less forgiving... keep the layers thin and you can wax on, wax off or wax on and leave for a while then remove.
> 
> To avoid marring from tough residue, use a little quick detailer as this will soften up dried thick residue - never use heavy pressure or the dried wax residue will easily marr.


Dave have you any pictures of bad marring on Silver?:thumb:


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## needhampr (Feb 13, 2006)

I tend to apply wax thicker the more I get into doing the car. I start off nice and thin but have a slight tendancy to get over enthusiastic in my quest to get good coverage.

I think I will stick with my plans for Colli 845. Being a liquid wax it would be easy to apply a mid winter top up coat if required.


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

needhampr said:


> I tend to apply wax thicker the more I get into doing the car. I start off nice and thin but have a slight tendancy to get over enthusiastic in my quest to get good coverage..


exactly what i did (lucky it was nattys lol)


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## blitzed evo (Apr 28, 2008)

ordered mine over the weekend from detailed obsession

colly 476s 18oz £26.94 

is this good for dark as well as light colours ?


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## Fiestamk5 (Feb 15, 2007)

I have used it on black, grey, dark blue, infact I don't think I've ever put it on a light coloured car and I've always been impressed with it. 

A quick wipe over with Clearkote Quikshine helps to remove any missed residue

Edit - also good call using Gareth at Detailed Obsession. He's a top bloke


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## Janitor (Feb 14, 2006)

My first go with Colly 915 was a nightmare...

Did the whole car on a hot day, left it to cure for an hour and it was a b1tch! Even with QD spray assistance, some fine lines were left for ages! 

I think I learnt an important lesson there!


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## blitzed evo (Apr 28, 2008)

A quick wipe over with Clearkote Quikshine helps to remove any missed residue

i think he does that in the gallon bottles dosent he ? is this better than the megs qd ?


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## Fiestamk5 (Feb 15, 2007)

I prefer it to the Megs. It seems a bit more slick so you don't have to use as much and personally I think it adds a little gloss to the finish.
It can be diluted at 1:1 with water to use as clay lube too :thumb:


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## blitzed evo (Apr 28, 2008)

probably works out cheaper as well :thumb: cheers


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## slapshot (Jul 29, 2007)

I would also recommend getting the smaller 9oz Collinite tin not the 18oz. The 9oz tin has a larger opening the same size as a circular applicator sponge, the larger tin opening is too small and it's a pain to use. Gets quite heavy in the hand after a while too.

Besides, a little Collinite goes a long way!


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## blitzed evo (Apr 28, 2008)

18oz already ordered but thanks for tip..

anyways it'll fit in with my weight lifting schedule lol


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## Choc (Aug 20, 2008)

Newbie to Colli 476 here too.

Had another go at the weekend and it was a quite easy to use as I was nervous at first after reading some threads.

Damp applicator method worked a treat.

Left excellent results even if my car is reflex silver. :thumb:

Can't wait to give it another layer soon.


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

carensuk said:


> Dave have you any pictures of bad marring on Silver?:thumb:


I'll have a look but I dont think so... Will check when I get home to my desktop, but staying away tonight so will be tomorrow evening by then.


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

is there anything you can put over wax to get a wetter look ? (not that im not happy with what i have already)


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## CupraRcleanR (Sep 2, 2007)

silverback said:


> is there anything you can put over wax to get a wetter look ? (not that im not happy with what i have already)


Zaino Z8 but Duragloss Aquawax over 476/915 looks extra glossy. Used it again yesterday.

On friends cars I always use the 476 and Aquawax as it gives good looks and lasts.


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

CupraRcleanR said:


> Zaino Z8 but Duragloss Aquawax over 476/915 looks extra glossy. Used it again yesterday.
> 
> On friends cars I always use the 476 and Aquawax as it gives good looks and lasts.


duragloss it is  i need some 901 anyway.which DW retailers sell it ?


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## Neil_M (Apr 5, 2007)

I use 915, and last touch as a drying aid with the weekly wash. It works well.

I apply using the cheaper applicator sponges from clean your car (usually spritzed with last touch), it works very well. I apply to around two pannels at a time and then buff off.


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## CupraRcleanR (Sep 2, 2007)

silverback said:


> duragloss it is  i need some 901 anyway.which DW retailers sell it ?


Aquawax

http://www.glossmax.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_82&products_id=200

He does the 901 too in bigger sizes also.:thumb:


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

CupraRcleanR said:


> Aquawax
> 
> http://www.glossmax.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_82&products_id=200
> 
> He does the 901 too in bigger sizes also.:thumb:


order placed, cheers :thumb:


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## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

I personally think Collinite 476 is the best all round wax available. Its cheap,its mega tough and durable,its water beading looks like no other wax, it gives a nice finish,easy to use and its cheap. Basically as an allrounder it is unbeatable.


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## jimny33 (Feb 1, 2007)

can I ask - whats the differences between the numbers - #476 and #915 for example?

Are they for different colours?


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## mazda3_daveg (Jul 17, 2008)

Just different characteristics, 915 has a better finish (only slightly) but 476 lasts longer. 815 is a liquid wax.


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## jimny33 (Feb 1, 2007)

cool.

Just ordered some collinite 915 wax  Looking forward to if now (hope it covers some of the light swirling like the meg carbutua (sp??) did - otherwise its out with the polish too)


so tips for applying: light coats?


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## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

i have 915 and 815, both are easy to use.

If you are paranoid about issues that can arise from using paste waxes, then go for 815, it really us superb and just as good as 915.

The beading won't last as long with 815 but i enjoy waxing my car so i tend to top it up regular anyway so its not a issue. Just depends on if i feel like using a paste or liquid on the day!


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## carensuk (Aug 31, 2007)

I keep reading people use a QD when removing waxes, is this common practice or just if the wax is a pain to remove?


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## CupraRcleanR (Sep 2, 2007)

carensuk said:


> I keep reading people use a QD when removing waxes, is this common practice or just if the wax is a pain to remove?


I would use only if I've left it too long. It will help to remove bits you've missed when you give a final wipe down.


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## carensuk (Aug 31, 2007)

What damage to the paintwork can it do if you rub to hard to remove it.


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## CupraRcleanR (Sep 2, 2007)

carensuk said:


> What damage to the paintwork can it do if you rub to hard to remove it.


It can inflict "marring" but its not damage and is easily rectified. QD will minimise marring when removing stubbon wax.


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## carensuk (Aug 31, 2007)

Thanks for that, any pictures on what marring looks like, done a search with no success.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

carensuk said:


> Thanks for that, any pictures on what marring looks like, done a search with no success.


just like swirls or perhaps small areas of fine lines that look almost like a small patch has been lightly sanded...


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## Jochen (May 21, 2007)

CleanYourCar said:


> The key really is to make sure the surface it is bonding to is really well prepped. It makes application of any wax especially collinite so much better.
> 
> Thats why we always recommend a good pre wax cleaner before applcation like Carlack nano to shift any contamination.


I'm having great results with the Poorboy's glazes. The Colli goes on and off very easy!


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## msport (Jun 11, 2008)

I wish i had read this before i waxed my car with collinite 915 i must have put a thick layer on the whole car. it took me 2 hours to buff off! i had to wipe at least 10+ times just to get a tiny bit off! grrrrr


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## Janitor (Feb 14, 2006)

^^^ Yep, as said earlier in the thread, I've been there and done that! 

Piccys of marring..?

Well here's some marring caused by a Clay Bar - as someone else has suggested, it's like fine sandpaper marks... but you're highly unlikely to cause this when buffing polish - less so with QD spray assistance and even less likely when applied thinly to a panel or two then buffed off :thumb:


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## mazda3_daveg (Jul 17, 2008)

What clay bar was that being used Janitor? **worries about the times I've clayed with Sonus green in a rush**


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## CupraRcleanR (Sep 2, 2007)

mazda3_daveg said:


> What clay bar was that being used Janitor? **worries about the times I've clayed with Sonus green in a rush**


Panic not young Skywalker.

I'm sure its fine and its easily rectified.


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## Janitor (Feb 14, 2006)

mazda3_daveg said:


> What clay bar was that being used Janitor? **worries about the times I've clayed with Sonus green in a rush**


Full details here Dave: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85065

Never saw it at first, but then the sun caught it and I knew correction was on the cards. As said above, it has been rectified but made we wonder about Clay that's for sure (the shock has since worn off and I'm happy with the whole thing now by the way )


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## mazda3_daveg (Jul 17, 2008)

Cheers for the link. I was much too careless when I recently clayed the car. The second time since buying it a year ago - but I will take care now and make sure I don't clay it unless I have to.

Thanks for the heads up :thumb:


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

msport said:


> it took me 2 hours to buff off! i had to wipe at least 10+ times just to get a tiny bit off! grrrrr


that sounds like not only a pain the are,but a pain in the arm and shoulder area to :doublesho


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## gally (May 25, 2008)

used for the first time at the weekend and the stuff is class easy to see on a red
car how thinly your applying it,a little squirt of qd on the applicator made it so much easier.
beading like a wouldnt have thought after 1 coat amazing isnt the word!
so next coat on tonight. should keep me going till 2010! ha


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## jimny33 (Feb 1, 2007)

grrrrr why hasnt the post come.....i want to wax.........


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## silverback (Jun 18, 2008)

jimny33 said:


> grrrrr why hasnt the post come.....i want to wax.........


:lol: if it had come you know it would be raining


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## Mark M (Nov 29, 2006)

The key to claying is to use plenty of lube/quick detailer, and to regularly turn/fold the clay bar to a fresh side.

The marring on that Audi has been inflicted probably due to a lack of lube, since it is a fine clay.

But, if doing a correction detail, then you don't have to worry about inflicting marks as you will be able to remove them when tackling swirls.

More agressive clay bars will marr the paint even with plenty of lube. They are abrasive, and need to be to remove more stubborn contaminants.

With regards to Collinite, and any other wax, think THIN.

The thinner, the easier to remove. If you encounter problems, you can apply wax over the stubborn wax and then wipe with an MF and it should all come off. Otherwise, a spray of quick detailier/last touch should soften it.


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## jimny33 (Feb 1, 2007)

silverback said:


> :lol: if it had come you know it would be raining


 :lol::lol:


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## rich vrs (May 7, 2008)

only thing i find is its difficult knowing how thin of a layer to put on without ever seeing anyone applying wax in thin layers, i usually get about half a bonnet done with 1 twist and a spray of QD and i think thats thin but sometimes is difficult to remove.


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## IanJones (Sep 13, 2008)

if anyone has god any pics of a couple of stanges of a thin layer, would be good i think


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## Mark M (Nov 29, 2006)

On my iphone just now, there are thread in the showroom, but in the supporter section you will regularly see shots of wax curing.

Clark from Polished Bliss posts up these shots in his write ups for sure.

I also have some I'm my threads.


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