# Installing Concealed Shower



## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

Hi Everyone,

As a lot of you know we moved into a brand new build in December 2015. We have a lovely en suite so the main bathroom hasn't been used.

A couple of weeks ago our electric shower in the en suite (aqualisa 10.5kw) packed in and we had no means of showering, they only took a couple of days to come and fix the shower as it is well within warranty.

But in that period, I bought a clip on unit that runs off the bath taps so we could shower (also bought some cheap shower curtains to save the walls!)

However. We now want to sort our main bathroom out.

As you can see, very bobby basic in there due to not needing it!










I'm going to pull off all the tiles, we really don't like them, we know what we're going for.

To install a concealed shower, am I right in thinking I'm going to have to basically cut a wide strip down the middle of that plasterboard (where the temp shower is), make some brackets to fit the mixer onto and the shower head (that is one that comes out of the wall) and possibly for jets.

The bath has taps on it, how to I get water to the new mixer and keep the taps active?

Also I know there is a valve on the hot water that diverts cold to it to stop scolding and would ideally like to keep that in place for the bath tap, but can I take the hot water feed from before that valve or will it not work?

Basically I'm asking how I plumb the thing in, what do I need to buy.

Of course my plumbing will have to be done with plastic piping.


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## funkydunk (Aug 16, 2016)

I would like to be able to help you but its not something I can really describe on here. I would take the hot supply from before the mixer valve to the bath as the shower will have its own temperature limiter built in. You will probably need male connectors to connect on the shower


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## wish wash (Aug 25, 2011)

It will be easier to take the plater board off the full wall. Your going to have to drill holes through the noggins for the pipe work and fit extra support etc. You can take a feed off the pipe work from underneath the bath.


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## Guitarjon (Jul 13, 2012)

Im just here to see the responses, I'm actually training to be a plumber but not very far into it. So can't help a deal. Or rather, don't feel like I know enough to advise yet. 
I recently replaced my Mum and Dads shower but the pipework was already there. You'd definately be better taking the hot and cold feed from under the bath. 

The thermostat controls Will have two pipes fed in, one hot and one cold. (hot on the left usually and cold on the right -if your looking at the pipes/controls) The mixer controls contain all the valves inside which sort out the hot and cold so you literally need the two pipes going into it. Smaller thermostatic showers don't always have brackets keeping them to the wall but ensure the pipework behind the wall is fully supported and bracketed. You will need to take the plasterboard off really or cut a very big section as the two pipes cant run directly next to each other as the hot will heat the cold etc. 

Also, be sure to install maintaince valves after spuring off thecold and hot bath water feeds as its part of water regulations. 

Im not sure about the taps you have. Maybe get some new tap mixers without the shower mixer pipe on the top or find a way of blanking it off. This way will look neater. Alll the pipework will be behind the wall and you'll just have the flexipipe from the mixer to the shower head (unless you buy a concealed unit that goes behind the wall again just have the shower head sticking out not visually attached to the mixer for the shower thermostat. 

I'd seriously reconsider using plastic push fit too. They are easier but I personally have had a serious leak from one previously installed in my own house by the last owner which resulted in re-doing the roof in the hallway. I can't remember excatly but I know certain types of plastic pipes are also not supposed to be used above a certain temperature so may be no good on your hot tap. You'll need to check this out though. If i get chance ill find out for you in my books. 

Like I said, I'm not qualified and haven't been on the course very long. I've only replaced my Mum and dads shower but the majority of the pipework was fairly new and already there so I've never had to deal with installing the pipes behind the wall which I think is going to be the hardest part. 

If you have any further questions, I don't mind but I'm sure somebody more qualified than me might be a better option. Hope it goes well buddy, keep us updated. If i can help I will but don't take my advise as gospal.


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Good plans chum. A fully concealed shower is very tidy. You'll probably remember that we had a leak in our ensuite recently. I had to rip out everything and start from scratch again. Apparently a bar shower is the 'in-thing' at the minute. Basically, you just have to get the hot and cold supply up the wall and out to the surface. Your thermostatic valve mounts on the surface. This is very close to the one I fitted. If there's any issues with the thermostatic cartridge, everything can be very easily accessed.

http://www.vip-bathrooms.com/Shower...ed Dual Bar Valve Shower System/#.WLdBjZGnzqA

Cooks

Sent from my D6603


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

Is the wall with the shower on solid or plasterboard?

I did this in our last house where wall was a stud wall. As you're removing tiles I'd cut 2 narrow channels up the wall, 1 for cold 1 for hot pipe. These can be connected to your hot and cold supply under the bath. I used compression fittings but have since soldered some plumbing which wasn't as hard as I expected!! The 15mm copper pipes will then just connect to the mixer bar on the wall. You can then tile over the channels you have cut for the pipes.
What I did was buy a pipe bending spring (couple of quid in screwfix) then bent a 90 degree bend in each pipe where they came out of the wall to join the shower. That way you have no joint buried in the wall. The only joints that could leak will then be under the bath or on shower bar so accessible.

162365124566 is the item number on ebay which is similar to one we have now. It was from China but a few hundred quid cheaper than b and q etc so I took a punt. 2 years on and it's faultless.


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## Guitarjon (Jul 13, 2012)

Darlofan said:


> Is the wall with the shower on solid or plasterboard?
> 
> I did this in our last house where wall was a stud wall. As you're removing tiles I'd cut 2 narrow channels up the wall, 1 for cold 1 for hot pipe. These can be connected to your hot and cold supply under the bath. I used compression fittings but have since soldered some plumbing which wasn't as hard as I expected!! The 15mm copper pipes will then just connect to the mixer bar on the wall. You can then tile over the channels you have cut for the pipes.
> What I did was buy a pipe bending spring (couple of quid in screwfix) then bent a 90 degree bend in each pipe where they came out of the wall to join the shower. That way you have no joint buried in the wall. The only joints that could leak will then be under the bath or on shower bar so accessible.
> ...


Good plan with the pipe bending!


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

Guitarjon said:


> Im not sure about the taps you have. Maybe get some new tap mixers without the shower mixer pipe on the top or find a way of blanking it off. This way will look neater.


The taps there currently are just 2 taps. 1 hot, 1 cold. No built in mixer. The mixer thing on the taps was an emergency measure as our main shower broke in our en suite. This is what it is...works well.

http://www.argos.co.uk/product/4644493



Cookies said:


> Good plans chum. A fully concealed shower is very tidy. You'll probably remember that we had a leak in our ensuite recently. I had to rip out everything and start from scratch again. Apparently a bar shower is the 'in-thing' at the minute. Basically, you just have to get the hot and cold supply up the wall and out to the surface. Your thermostatic valve mounts on the surface. This is very close to the one I fitted. If there's any issues with the thermostatic cartridge, everything can be very easily accessed.
> 
> http://www.vip-bathrooms.com/Shower...ed Dual Bar Valve Shower System/#.WLdBjZGnzqA
> 
> ...


Yeah, glad you have that all sorted now.

This is what I would ideally want. Looks very smart...

http://soak.com/200mm-square-stainl...atic-mixer-shower-kit--slimline_p31344020.htm



wish wash said:


> It will be easier to take the plater board off the full wall. Your going to have to drill holes through the noggins for the pipe work and fit extra support etc. You can take a feed off the pipe work from underneath the bath.


I think this is going to be the best option taking it off the full false wall there.



Darlofan said:


> Is the wall with the shower on solid or plasterboard?
> 
> I did this in our last house where wall was a stud wall. As you're removing tiles I'd cut 2 narrow channels up the wall, 1 for cold 1 for hot pipe. These can be connected to your hot and cold supply under the bath. I used compression fittings but have since soldered some plumbing which wasn't as hard as I expected!! The 15mm copper pipes will then just connect to the mixer bar on the wall. You can then tile over the channels you have cut for the pipes.
> What I did was buy a pipe bending spring (couple of quid in screwfix) then bent a 90 degree bend in each pipe where they came out of the wall to join the shower. That way you have no joint buried in the wall. The only joints that could leak will then be under the bath or on shower bar so accessible.
> ...


It's a false wall, the wall with the sink is a block wall. They obviously put this section in in order to do exactly what I want to do. If we had the chance we'd have maybe specc'd a shower already built in but the house was too far along, basically 99% built by the time we committed to buy.

I'm guessing the easiest, cost effective and best way to do this then is if I took the plaster board off, got the mixer, head and all that ligned up and installed between the studs.....then got a plumber to come and just connect it up with pipework, then when he's done his thing, I can take the bits back off I need to, plaster board, tile and then refit the external bits?

Should only be an hours work or so shouldn't it for a plumber?


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

That looks very cool chum. If you're going to take the plasterboard off, and are going to tile, I'd replace the plasterboard with marine ply, and apply a tanking kit too. Look at the classiseal kits too. They provide a watertight border around the bath/shower tray using a membrane lip that you tile over. 

Great project chum. 

Cooks 

Sent from my D6603


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

Looking at the one you've linked too you can cut a channel up the plasterboard (multitool will be handy if you have one) wide enough for a couple of pipes. With this option because you're cutting between the studs you'll have to baton up the inside of the channel to stop the plasterboard flexing. 

The other option you have is drill pilot holes across the wall to work out where the vertical studs are then cut out the plasterboard vertically halfway across the studs then you can refit a new piece of plasterboard once the plumber has fitted pipes etc. 

As above you could use marine ply etc to fully waterproof the wall.


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

I think the stud work is metal...what screws/fixings do I need for this?

Also for screwing in some brackets I'll have to make for the mixer and head?


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## 0-MAT-0 (Jan 12, 2017)

When I re-did my bathroom I considered a concealed unit, but went for surface mounted in the end because of the pipework and if anything went wrong with the unit I would have to strip the tiles off. 
A few pictures of install. 








Tiling with the 2 pipes out H & CW feed. 

































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## funkydunk (Aug 16, 2016)

I would screw some wood to the metal to get a good fixing then fix the valve and pipes to that. It's only soft metal so normal wood screws will do.


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