# ** Swirl Removal By Hand - Test **



## Dave KG

As promised, I tested out a set of products to see what kind of swirl removal is possible by hand, and as a general overview of the results, it is possible to get good results by hand... but it takes a lot of time and patience!! 

Each produce was tested on a small area of a red metallic bonnet, pre-washed with some steelwool. This left light swilrs and deep swirls too, to test the products and techniques to the limits. Each product was allowed five hits (this is why my arm is so sore!! :lol: ) to work on the paint, and was worked until the product was ready to remove each time, detailed description of each process with each product.... All products applied using a Meguiars Foam Applicator (clean one for each product) and removed with Megs Ultimate Wipes.

So, down to business:

*Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover 2*
First up was Meguiars #9, a filler heavy product which also contains light abbrassives. Sutiable for application by hand or machine, of course it was applied by hand here.

Before:


This product was applied first of all in circular motions with firm pressure, then in horizontal and verical lines, and then back to circular motions... Took about three to four minutes per hit to work the product well. The residue then buffed off very easily...

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


In summary, this was an easy product to use and did a very good job of dealing with the light swilrs (all taken out), and an admirable job of the heavier scratches, around 60% removed. Impressive by hand... Also left a very nice wet and glossy finish, so for working by hand this is an excellent product for swirl removal. A good start to the test! :thumb:

*Meguiars ScratchX*
An OTC product that is designed to deal with swirl marks by hand, and a product that is often recommended if working by hand. Light abbrassive product.

Before:


This product was applied first in circular motions then in straight lines with firm pressure. It dried more quickly than #9, and went quite tacky but was still very easy to remove.

Results after five hits:


This was another good performing product from Meguiars, that did a very good job of dealing with the swilrs by hand, only the deeper scratches remaining... an impressive result for working by hand. 

*Prima Amigo Hand Glaze*
A non-abbrassive filling product this time, so without the abbrassive to deal with the swilrs, this product was going to rely on the fillers... This made it very easy to use.

Before:


This product was worked in with circular motions then straight lines with medium pressure, given about two minutes per hit to work.

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


This product did an excellent job of dealing with hte light swirls but as expected struggled a little with the deeper scratches. However, for cars with light swilrs, this would be an ideal fast, and easy to use glaze product for masking the swilrs effectively. It also left a very nice glossy finish, I was impressed with this product and can see me ordering some in the near future to use as a finishing glaze. 

*Menzerna Final Polish II*
A different take on swirl removal now... abbrassiv only, no fillers... I was expecting this to really struggle, relying only on abbrassives which by hand are very difficult to get very good results from. But it did prove me wrong...

Before:


As before, the product was worked in circular motion and straight lines, about five minutes pre hit this time though to try to fully break the product down... tough going, but generated results:

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


This was tough going and tiring, but it dealt very nicely with light swilrs and did an admirable job by hand on the heavier scratches... If you have arms like Arnie, this could be done on a full car but there are easier products out there. For me, Menzerna is best suited to the machine, but can work by hand.

*Clearkote Red Moose Machine Glaze*
A filler heavy glaze, desinged for masking swirl marks and being packed with fillers, should be pretty easy by hand...

Before:


This was applied in the same way as all products above for about two minues, and wiped off with ease...

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


While a couple of deeper scratches remained, RMG was very impressive at hiding light and also heavier swilrs by hand and left a nice glossy finish. An excellent performance, and easy too makes this one of my choice products for dealing with swirls by hand. :thumb:

*Zymol HD Cleanse*
An odd ball this one here... non-abbrassive, but packed with essential glazing oils that can act to fill slightly, I thought it was worth giving this product a go.

Before:


Applied as Zymol instructs, firm pressue in straight lines and wiped off with ease...

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


Light swilrs were masked, but anything heavier remained... super wet glossy shine though, so if you use Zymol, I would ensure all defect rmeoval is carried out before the application of HD cleanse as the oils in this will really only deal with minor swirls. The more I use this though, the more I like the super wet look finish!

*Autoglym Super Resin Polish*
The first of the "all-in-one" productsm contains fillers, leaves an acryllic sealent layer too.

Before:


This was applied in circular motions and straight lines, for about two minutes per hit and the residue removed with ease (a little bit of duist though). Easy to use product...

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


Out of all the products tested, this one achieved the best defect removal - even deeper swirls were mostly dealt with... these were mainly filled, but as an option by hand for defect work, SRP is hard ignore. Excellent results from an underrated product, left a nice glossy finish too! :thumb:

*Klasse All In One*
The second of the all-in-one products, this is a non-abbrassive strong chemical cleanser.

Before:


Applied in circular motions and straight lines for about two minutes per hit, this was another easy to use product which was easy to remove as well.

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


Very good results, with many of the swilrs masked and hidden, however for me the finish left by SRP had the edge both interms of glass and defect removal... Still, a good set of results from Klasse.


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## Dave KG

*Meguiars NXT Tech Wax*
Not really designed for swirl removal, but contains light fillers and claims to elimate light swilrs so I thought it was worth testing...

Before:


Applied in circular motions, finishing in straight lines:

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


NXT struggled with the heavier swilrs, but as it says on the bottle, it eliminated the fine swilrs nicely and also left a nice deep glossy finish. Lovely finish, but if there are severe swirls, best usea different product first and then finish off with the NXT.

*1Z Wax Polish Soft*

A filler heavy product that also leaves a layer of protection behind it as well, from the 1Z stable so a quality product this one...

Before:



This product was then worked into the paint in circular motions, and straight lines for about two minutes per hit until it started to go a little bit tacky... It was then removed with a Megs Ultimate Wipe, the residue coming away with ease.

Results after three hits:


Results after five hits:


The vast mojority of the light swilrs were removed with this product, only the deeper scratches remianing. What really impressed me with the 1Z was the deep glossy shine that it left on the red paint, another excellent product.

And thats it... yes you can remove swirls by hand, and there are many good products out there. As a brief summary of my thoughts and findings, the best defect removal was achieved by Autoglym Super Resin Polish, glossiest finish from Zymol HD Cleanse, easiest to use was Prima Amigo.

Many thanks to the following people who made this post possible:

Alex at Serious Performance (Prima sample)
andyollie on this forum (1Z WPS sample)
Detailing World (NXT Sample)

and also many thanks to those who offered me samples to test too. It is very much appreciated. :thumb:


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## Exotica

Nice post there Dave:thumb:


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## Alex L

I'm shocked about the SRP, just goes to show how overlooked it is:thumb:


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## ayr320cdmsport04

:thumb: David "kg" must mean "King Of Guides"


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## CK888

Super test write-up Dave:thumb:

Did you get any PTG readings of each?


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## chowy

Fantastic test!

2 big suprises for me. SRP - what a star performer and very suprised that AIO got rid of swirls considering it's non abbrasive and contains no filler


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## Dave KG

JUst taken the PTG out and there is a negligible difference between polished and unpolished areas... any paint removal is too small for the gauge to pick up accurately.


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## blr123

Well done Dave :thumb: ...........so for hiding swirls by hand it's SRP all the way........now there's a shock eh  

Bryan


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## Dave KG

SRPs certainly got the ability to do a great job on even some of the deeper scratches it was tested on, it really is an excellent product when used by hand and one that IMO is hard to overlook. :thumb:


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## VW_Bora

Top test Dave:thumb: 

Surprised how well the AIO worked..


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## graham

great write up dave!you were bang on with ure prediction of rmg.how abrasive do you think srp is ?


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## Dave KG

graham said:


> great write up dave!you were bang on with ure prediction of rmg.how abrasive do you think srp is ?


I don't think its very abbrassive at all, but it is packed to the gunnels with fillers which certainly helped it... I wish I had some IPA around to wipe the panel back down to see just what marks were filled, products like RMG purely fill the marks, whereas ScratchX and #9 for example have mild abbrassives too.


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## graham

great stuff a good experiment and a good fitness work out lol


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## KevT

Those you tested with the fillers, will those simply wash away next wash or will they be ok with a coat of wax on top to protect them?


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## Dave KG

KevT said:


> Those you tested with the fillers, will those simply wash away next wash or will they be ok with a coat of wax on top to protect them?


The ones with the fillers, if you put a coat of wax or sealent over them, then in theory the finish shuld last as long as the wax coat... However, some sealents are very solventy, and I have noticed that EGP for example can act to remove some filler in application. Haven't tried 1Z Glanz Wax over filler, but I suspect it may have a similar effect if used into too large a quantity as it can remove glaze oils. I'll go and have a look at this shortly once I pick up my WPS sample.


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## Neil_S

Nice test Dave, suprised by the Klasse AIO result. Didn't think it would mask anything!


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## RichardC

Great work Dave :thumb:

Your guides are so helpful to both newbies and the more advanced. I always read your posts knowing I am going to gain yet more information 

Many Thanks

Richard


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## Brazo

Its my belief any product you appky to a car will mask to some extent. Try hiding very light swirls with a liquid wax - works a treat. Ask Mike Phllips about fillers and he agrees that any substance you apply and wipe smooth over a rough surface will 'fill' to some extent.

Dave did you wipe of the srp to see how much filling effect it has?

My only reservation with 'removal' by hand - in general is that its all very well on a small test piece but try a whole panel, let alone a whole car and you'll be seriously knacered!


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## steveo3002

Brazo said:


> Ask Mike Phllips about fillers


its prob best not to ask him actualy:lol:


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## Pauly_G

Great guide Dave.

Have spent five hours today giving the car a good clean.

Decided for a change to use SRP, by hand, all over - it works a treat at masking the swirls, as demonstrated by Dave's detailed analysis, on my Orient Blue 3 Series Touring. Problem is it's quite a big car and my arms are aching somewhat now...

Typically I used NXT Tech Wax as the final coat...but this doesn't last long at all. What do people recommend, application by hand of course?


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## Brazo

Top with Autoglym extra gloss for a good few months protection


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## Dave KG

Brazo said:


> Its my belief any product you appky to a car will mask to some extent. Try hiding very light swirls with a liquid wax - works a treat. Ask Mike Phllips about fillers and he agrees that any substance you apply and wipe smooth over a rough surface will 'fill' to some extent.
> 
> Dave did you wipe of the srp to see how much filling effect it has?
> 
> My only reservation with 'removal' by hand - in general is that its all very well on a small test piece but try a whole panel, let alone a whole car and you'll be seriously knacered!


Yep thats true, even a wax will mask toa slight extent... i haven't wiped off the SRP yet, and have just picked up WPS from the post office so will give that a run out tomorrow (off to the cinema shortly  )

Agreed that, on a whole car, swirl removal by hand would be a nightmareish task, and you'r need a lot of time and patience... if you were to tackle a whole car by hand then for sure I would set aside reasonable targets, like perhaps a panel an evenig, anything more and you'll be seriusly knackered... The point of this test was just to show that its possible. :thumb:


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## Brazo

Agreed mate and was in no way knocking your test!


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## Pauly_G

Is Autoglym Extra Gloss any good?

SRP is the only AG product I've really used.


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## Dave KG

Yes, AG EGP is a very nice product and can be layered too for extra durability - leave about 24hrs between layers... Lasts very well, and gives a nice finish too... I really like it. :thumb:


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## brightpinkstar

Good results from SRP. Glad I have it in my kit ready to use (when I get time to sort the cars out!) Thanks for the tips, shall keep me going till I get a PC, thanks.:thumb:


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## vtec160bhp

excellent work dave


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## Dave KG

** Updated, 1Z Wax polish Soft Results now included! :thumb:


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## Liverpool-Lad

Excellent write up as always.


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## Wmffra

*Superb Work As Usual*

Excellent work Dave :thumb:

Very interesting results going on there, loving these tests and write-ups you're doing . . . . . .


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## andyollie

Good work dave, glad u got the sample. shocked at the SRP results


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## Rich @ PB

Yet another superb write up - you really are a credit to this forum, and dare I say it member of the year in my book. One question - no IP by hand? It's my go to product by hand, as I find it easy to use and gives great results when applied using German Pads. FPII gets my recommendation for customers with soft Jap paint who want to correct by hand, but anything else gets the IP vote. Any chance of testing it at some point and reporting back with a view on performance compared to the above?


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## Dave KG

andyollie said:


> Good work dave, glad u got the sample. shocked at the SRP results


I was surprised by the SRP too... I had seen it demonstrated before, so knew it was pretty good at masking swilrs, but I didn't know it was quite that good!! The WPS was very good as well, left a deeper finish than the SRP.


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## Dave KG

WX51 TXR said:


> Yet another superb write up - you really are a credit to this forum, and dare I say it member of the year in my book. One question - no IP by hand? It's my go to product by hand, as I find it easy to use and gives great results when applied using German Pads. FPII gets my recommendation for customers with soft Jap paint who want to correct by hand, but anything else gets the IP vote. Any chance of testing it at some point and reporting back with a view on performance compared to the above?


Cheers Rich, yes I will do that, I've got one square on the bonnet that wasn't topuched so I will test it on that... I will be in contact very soon as need some more Megs Clay, I'll get one of the German applicators at the same time and give this a try.


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## Rich @ PB

Nice one. :thumb:


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## b3mor

Great test, thanks for sharing your findings


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## GregR

Dear Mr Dave,

Fantastic post, just what this newbie needed! Well done from a fellow Dundonian :thumb: 

If you're available for a detail, drop me a PM


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## irf200

that is perfect timing, i have a thread in here about swirl removal by hand and now there's a thread with pics to show the outcome!!!
thank you


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## Dave KG

irf200 said:


> that is perfect timing, i have a thread in here about swirl removal by hand and now there's a thread with pics to show the outcome!!!
> thank you


Just noticed your other thread, mate... I have also seen good results by hand on softer paint with Poorboys SSR2 that was mentioned there, I didn't have any at the time I did this test and so its not included. By hand, though, it is generally easier to maks the swilrs to hide them as I have done here, and Autoglym SRP is an excellent product for this. The only non-filling product here I believe to be Menzerna Final Finish, which was effective but the SRP's masking got easier results by hand.

Keep an eye out soon for an update to this test including the more abbrassive Menzerna Intensive Polish with a german applicator pad - have recently seen excellent results with this combo by hand, so this test deserves an update! :thumb:

GregR, YHPM mate! :thumb:


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## VXT Tim

Great thread Dave.

How would for example the AG SRP compare to say Poorboys SSR2 also by hand?

I noticed in the excellent weather we've been having lately that my paintwork although shiny is quite swirled. The paint on my vxt is very soft and thin (also it's nearly all fibre glass) and i would only feel confident working on it by hand or with an orbital polisher/buffer.

Any advice?

Ta


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## Dave KG

SRP would be the safest of the options you mention there, as it is mainly filling the swirls so on soft paint stil will remove hardly any paint at all, and by hand filling will achieve easier results that removal generally speaking. SSR2 is more abbrassive and wokrs very well by hand, but I prefer Menzerna Final Polish II which should work very nicely on your soft paint - I find this easier to use and gets slighlty better results by hand than SSR2 so this is worth considering.


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## VXT Tim

Thanks :thumb: 

I think i'll give menzerna a go!


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## Par

Great post Dave!

Before I started on the path to the ultimate shine & finish and finding new products to empty my wallet with I previously used Autoglym SRP by hand topped with the Extra Gloss and can vouch that this is a good combo.

It was always satisfying walking to your car in the carpark after a shower of rain seeing the large beads of water compared to the other cars which just seemed wet!

Just goes to show it is worth revisiting some of the oldies alongside all the new products which are released.

Keep up the good work, I am sure it is valued by all here.:thumb:


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## g00n3r

Interesting results and I'm shocked at the SRP results, I've always found SRP to be really smeary on darker colours, it's probably just my lack of technique, but I avoid that stuff like the plague.


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## Roc

Could Bilt-Hamber Autobalm be added to this? It has big claims about swirl filling, personally I find it very good at hiding them.


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## Dave KG

Hi guys, I have had the request to try a few more products out, so I am going to do a repeat test soon: currently on the list to try:

Menzerna Intensive Polish by German Applicator
Bilt-Hamber Autobalm
Meguiars Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner


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## irf200

good news, i've got the meguiars deep crystal paint cleaner so will be very interested to see how that fares


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## BRUN

superb, totally superb test mate

how glad am i that i recently bought *1L* of AG SRP when it was on offer @ work (Motor World) for 9.99

ill be using it later i think topped with 476s (going to Scotland for nearly 2 weeks without the car so i want protection !)


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## charlievarley

Awesome post Dave thx

I think i still have some SRP left


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## griff500

Superb post Dave. Thanks very much for taking the time to do that, top bloke.


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## darylb

:thumb: Yea thats a very good test Dave, restores my faith in working by hand after reading so much about machine polishers. :buffer: Only working on my own car though so i've got all the time in the world really, keeps me outside too!  Its good to see how the differrent products compare, bought some ScratchX recently so its good to see it performs well 

thanks!


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## Tyke

Mmmm, might have to give the SRP a go. 

Presumably you could top it with any carnauba, but would there be any point in topping it with another synthetic such as Meg's NXT/#21?


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## Dave KG

You could top the SRP with any carnuaba wax or sealent if you desire... It leaves a thin layer of sealent down and is the ideal base for a product like the Extra Gloss Protection. Careful about using sealents that have cleaners in them, such as NXT, as this mya act to remove some of the SRPs sealent layer and also some of the fillers. 

I'd personally follow the SRP with EGP for durability and then top with a carnauba wax for a little added depth and gloss.


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## Tyke

Thanks Dave! :thumb:


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## vsideboy

I used to use the SRP extensively when I first got my car, unfortunately after a few months of polishing by hand it ended up going through the laquer ontop of the rear wing so I had to get the wing resprayed.

It is difficult to say the cause of it, but it could be that the SRP IS abrasive, or that it had had a poor respray by the dealer, so I opted to use a wax instead of the polish since then.

I did however wash the car last night and SRP'd half the bonnet (as it was nearly dark and I couldn't see what I was doing!) but it was quite a difference when the rain was on it this morning, beaded up on the non SRP side from the old layer of wax a couple of weeks ago, to the non beaded SRP side. Only did 1 pass with the SRP though and car is very scratched so need to sort it out and polish MORE!!!










Thanks for the write up though matey.


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## Dave KG

SRP is very very mildly abbrassive, if it went through a lacquer coat then that suggests there was only very very thin layer of paint there, or it has been used too often - ie used weekly for example. SRP is a polish designed for defect masking and as such shouldn't be used in place of a wax, waxes or sealents such as EGP are what should be used to boost the protection. However, even regulalr use shouldn't abrade through a normal clearcoat by hand too quickly, it suggests the paint in that area was poor.


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## Scottex

Thanks for going to all the trouble for the test. Great test idea and write-up.
I think we've all learnt a lot from this.


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## mark1319

Never realised Klasse AIO could actually hide the swirls, only product I've got in my arsenal so will be giving it a go.


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## Gandi

Great Post and good to know about the SRP, no Auto Balm in there tho?


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## Dave KG

Gandi said:


> Great Post and good to know about the SRP, no Auto Balm in there tho?


None available to me at the time of the test... as AB seems to be enterring into fashion, it may be worthwhile testing it our and seeing how it compares. I have a tub of it after all.


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## Gandi

Ah i see, you i reckon it would be a worthwhile test TBH as all the reviews seem to point towards a great product.


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## AndyH

How did i miss this post?

Great results there Dave, its good to see what some of the lesser fashionable products are capable of!

I did something simalar with:

Megs DC1
Megs #80
Megs #83
Menz 85RD
Lime Prime

I need to continue at some stage when i get some spare time :lol:


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## Car Key

Great thread Dave









Success with PO106FA by hand:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=41514


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## Dream Machines

Excellent stuff dave
I was mucking around with prima cut, swirl, finish and amigo last week by hand with german applicator and four minutes per product (just 1 hit) made it flawless and this was an MG F from japan with scratches and swirls everywhere

So it's possible to use even Hi temp extreme cut and Menz powergloss by hand, it just takes time.


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## BILL

Fantastic write up as usual Dave :thumb:


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## PJS

Gandi said:


> Great Post and good to know about the SRP, no Auto Balm in there tho?





Dave KG said:


> None available to me at the time of the test... as AB seems to be enterring into fashion, it may be worthwhile testing it our and seeing how it compares. I have a tub of it after all.


:lol:
And there was me going to send you a small amount of my own to help your research.


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## gtechrob

dave - did i send you a sample of p1? we tried it against srp the other day - we found it worked better than srp. but we may well be biased


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## gtechrob

oh and unlike srp it's not using fillers to mask the finish (not that I want to start up that old chestnut again!)


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## Doc

Nice write up.
Not having a machine I have tried two techniques:
1, SSR2 - worked well but swirls were still evident.
2, Menzerna Intensive Polish - German applicator. - worked very well but was very hard work.

Regarding EGP by Autogylm, would this be the final product to use after a coat of Megs NXT gen wax?
Also I'm finding that trying to top up with Quick detailer it doesn't wipe off cleanly and leaves streaks, is there a technique to it?


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## HEADPHONES

Great thread.

Only had swirls on the rear hatch but followed the routine of Dave KG with SRP and the swirls are 95% gone.

Cheers guys:thumb: 

So pleased I put up your advice on my ownersclub forum too!


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## mark1319

mark1319 said:


> Never realised Klasse AIO could actually hide the swirls, only product I've got in my arsenal so will be giving it a go.


Have went and bought some SRP to give it a go, if I'm going to do all the work I might as well use the best product for the job.


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## Suasexed

What would you say is the best product to use if you want to remove, *not fill*, swirls by hand?  -I appreciate it's not going to be easy work!-


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## s2kpaul

Dave i have some red moose and srp which would you recomend using on a flat red car then ?


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## Silva1

great test although some of the pics arent working


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## Glossmax

Suasexed said:


> What would you say is the best product to use if you want to remove, *not fill*, swirls by hand?  -I appreciate it's not going to be easy work!-


Long time since I have read the review, but didn't Dave test some Menz FF and found it worked very well by hand just very hard work.


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## addsvrs

WOW great test

Nice one


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## Guest

Dave KG doing what he does lol

Shows SRP should be in everyones collection, hence going to attack my dads car with it (via a PC) followed with wax we got on saturday.

Stunning guide by the way!


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## Dave KG

Glad to see this thread is still proving to be very useful 

This test will be repeated in the coming weeks as there are new products out there that need to be included, the main one in my mind being Bilt Hamber Auto Balm and initial playing with it suggests its going to be mighty competitive on this front.


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## Guest

I have a very very grotty Mini (clubman if your intrested) thats getting the full bilt-hamber process, not to sure about the stocking they give with it.

But thats all by hand too.


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## chrissyg

Could i apply srp then egp then top with sv onyx or would the wax not bond without using sv cf
cheers


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## Dave KG

chrissyg said:


> Could i apply srp then egp then top with sv onyx or would the wax not bond without using sv cf
> cheers


The wax should bond no problems to the sealent layer left by EGP.


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## chrissyg

Excellent cheers dave top test by the way


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## PWOOD

Unfortunately it means I have to do my car 5 times with SRP to get the full effect. Works a treat though. The first pass I do with reasonable pressure the subsequent ones are with minimal pressure to avoid removing the previous coat as its the fillers that are now all thats important with the subsequent layers. 

I wonder if subsequent layers might be best done with CK RMG as it isnt abrassive at all.


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## Nuclear Tom

Nice test this Dave. :thumb:

If nothing else, the big thing for me that this proves with the correct technique, and plenty of elbow grease (oh, and ooodles of patience), swirls can be corrected by hand! Thats excellent news, and encouraging for those of us that haven't bought machines


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## Dream Machines

Yes it can be done by hand. Just takes four to five minutes with good pads (not them meguiars yellow things)


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## bilt-hamber kid

matt1263 said:


> I have a very very grotty Mini (clubman if your intrested) thats getting the full bilt-hamber process, not to sure about the stocking they give with it.
> 
> But thats all by hand too.


Ah the 100% virgin cotton stockinette, cotton fibres being softer that the combo used in microfibre cloths.


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## gazda

*test*

excellent job,:newbie:


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## PhillipM

bilt-hamber kid said:


> Ah the 100% virgin cotton stockinette, cotton fibres being softer that the combo used in microfibre cloths.


Personally I find it clogs up with it being a closed weave compared to a microfibre though, certainly prefer microfibres for application, and the first buff off, but I've gone back to the damp stockinette for the final buff over.


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## vespapete

*SRP and repainting.*

Have spent pounds on loads of other brands of polish,looks like the SRP will have to be resurected! Just one point though, true or false? paintshop said to me before doing me a small job, "hope you have not been polishing with that resin stuff" as can cause repainting to be a pain!


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## PhillipM

Only if they're a cowboy outfit that don't prep. the surface properly.


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## vespapete

*Resin*

OK thanks for that. What is your view on this,bear with me! If you apply varnish to wood it can breath, if you apply resin varnish it cant, wood is a living thing and it needs to breath ,the same applys to paintwork, so why would you want to apply resin? Read this in an article on car polish, and they used the above as an example!


----------



## mouthyman

some excellent work, and some impressive results, i will have to remember some of these in future,


----------



## superstring

vespapete said:


> OK thanks for that. What is your view on this,bear with me! If you apply varnish to wood it can breath, if you apply resin varnish it cant, wood is a living thing and it needs to breath ,the same applys to paintwork, so why would you want to apply resin? Read this in an article on car polish, and they used the above as an example!


Ahhh....paint is a living thing and needs to breathe  This sounds like some of the misinformation propagated by Z***** Can you link the article you read this in?


----------



## VIPER

vespapete said:


> OK thanks for that. What is your view on this,bear with me! If you apply varnish to wood it can breath, if you apply resin varnish it cant, wood is a living thing and it needs to breath ,the same applys to paintwork, so why would you want to apply resin? Read this in an article on car polish, and they used the above as an example!


Going to make this a short post - Autoglym Super Resin Polish is 100% fine on paintwork - don't need to say anymore really.


----------



## vespapete

Sorry ,cant link to any article, read long timeago, but absolutely nothing to do with any Z words! I wish i could find it.


----------



## Dave KG

The paintshop will be referring to problems with applying paint where silicones and resins are present - ie you cant. But they should be able to adequately prep such that this is not a problem.

Re: paint breathing, freshly applied paint can need some time to "breathe", this is fact, while the solvents in it out gas (IIRC)... If you seal in the paint, this cannot escape and you end up with fish eyes so many will tell you to wait six to eight weeks before sealing the paint with any wax or sealent product. This is dependant on the paint system used and how it was cured before you got it.


----------



## mplaczek

Really interesting read... great work there :thumb: 
I had no idea it was possible to get such good results by hand with just a few passes!


----------



## olliecampbell

A great read, with interesting results too!

Whats SSR2?


----------



## superstring

olliecampbell said:


> A great read, with interesting results too!
> 
> Whats SSR2?


Poorboy's Medium Cut swirl remover.

http://www.poorboysworld.com/super-swirl-removers.htm


----------



## olliecampbell

Ahh thanks


----------



## imagewizzard

can anyone do a guide to a non metalic paint of one thats not laquerd 

as the guide dose not work the same .......

thanks tony


----------



## v6-dave

this should be made a sticky post.


----------



## justamupett

Well ive already got a gallon:doublesho can of SRP in the garage!!

Can i use AG paint renovator first,Then the SRP.........After that is it EGP then a final wax or other way round  


By the way dave,This really is a cracking post:wave:


----------



## Dave KG

Only use Paint Renovator if you really need to as it is pretty harsh - try the SRP first and see if it gives the results you want before cracking out the big guns. SRP then to follow the Paint Renovator if you use it.

Then EGP and if you like a wax to follow this is spot on.


----------



## paulrandall

So how abrasive is SRP. Should i worry about applying too much, and what should i looks for e.g. damage signs?


----------



## Dave KG

SRP is very lightly abrasive... you will not be removing noticeable amounts of paint by hand with one application... You dont want to be applying it every day, but its not a product to cause any worry.


----------



## justamupett

Cheers guys,One of the motors needs the renovator but for the others will just dive in with the SRP

..........oh and another thing.........
MF or Stocking for applying the stuff..............whats your preference??

and and and ...............are the MF cloths on fleaybay(the packs of 10) any good??


----------



## mattjonescardiff

A comprehensive and interesting post. Thanks Dave.


----------



## Slangwerks

justamupett said:


> ..........oh and another thing.........
> MF or Stocking for applying the stuff..............whats your preference??


Foam applicator for application, Microfibre cloth for removal - by far the best combo.


----------



## justamupett

CHEERS 

Will be purchasing some as soon as IT STOPS BLOODY RAINING UP HERE and i can actually get some cleaning done:wave:


----------



## Dave KG

mattjonescardiff said:


> A comprehensive and interesting post. Thanks Dave.


Its still going, coming up for 2 years on... 

Will be getting updated this summer with new products being on the market.


----------



## swiftshine

Magic thread on a magic forum. Cheers Dave and the other wizards for educating me. My new (to me, it's a year old) car has some light swirls, but thats not surprising since I've been washing it lots with a sponge! Didn't even know that was wrong. Anyways, wash mit (lambswool), grit guard, apps, mfs etc all ordered, and hopefully I will soon have a properly shiny car.
One quick question. If I use SRP for the swirls can I use a glaze after it (maybe the megs #7) before waxing, or should I use the other AG product? And will any decent wax go on nicely on top? (thinking dodo juice).
Cheers.


----------



## superstring

swiftshine said:


> Magic thread on a magic forum. Cheers Dave and the other wizards for educating me. My new (to me, it's a year old) car has some light swirls, but thats not surprising since I've been washing it lots with a sponge! Didn't even know that was wrong. Anyways, wash mit (lambswool), grit guard, apps, mfs etc all ordered, and hopefully I will soon have a properly shiny car.
> One quick question. If I use SRP for the swirls can I use a glaze after it (maybe the megs #7) before waxing, or should I use the other AG product? And will any decent wax go on nicely on top? (thinking dodo juice).
> Cheers.


I don't see any reason why you couldn't do that. #7 is what Meg's calls a "pure polish", meaning it doesn't have any cleaning/abrasive abilities. On the other hand, I wouldn't use something like Clearkote's RMG as it would compromise the (small) amount of protection laid down by SRP.


----------



## difficultrogue

According to them pics - the ag polish won the test by miles (or do I need a new monitor)- but no one has mentioned it - I have always steered well clear of ag - but on them results I will be getting some tomorrow!


----------



## olliecampbell

Well Ive just finished 5 layers of AG SRP all over the car... my arms hurt so much. I feel like Popeye now too!


----------



## Stegough

olliecampbell said:


> Well Ive just finished 5 layers of AG SRP all over the car... my arms hurt so much. I feel like Popeye now too!


how did it come out?

After seeing these reults i went out and bought AG SRP... havent had chance to apply yet... and i dont think im quite capable of doing the whole car once over in one go, nevermind 5 times :wall:

i am quite lazy


----------



## olliecampbell

Came out really well, it really does remove the swirls...but if like mine (100,000 miles) you will need a few applications (or use a random orbiter and save your arms !)


----------



## Tyrrell

Dave KG,

Very interesting thread mate, i'm refinishing my car at the weekend with SRP and then topping with EGP, i was interested in these products after reading this thread, i'm gonna apply the SRP with polishing pad on the PC can't wait.

I was looking on the net and Auto express tested some of these products and a product i haven't heard of came first. . . . . check it out.

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/66340/autoglym_super_resin_polish.html

Interesting if you look at the products mega tested, it includes *****, however a polish/wax by Comma that costs a fiver came first ??? Interested to know what you think ?


----------



## Dave KG

Take the AE tests with a pinch of salt.  Those that tested it know not what they have tested as they have not compared like with like products... Alas, poor testing from AE is common place for detailing gear.

SRP for example is a cleaner/polish packed with fillers and with a light sealent content. TW Gloss Guard is a pure sealent, no filling abilities or cleaning abilities to compare with SRP - two completely different products, and to compare the durability of them as they have done is a bit of pointless test. Ideally, you would use both on a detail - SRP to prep the paint, Gloss Guard for durability (for example)...


----------



## Tyrrell

Dave KG said:


> Take the AE tests with a pinch of salt.  Those that tested it know not what they have tested as they have not compared like with like products... Alas, poor testing from AE is common place for detailing gear.
> 
> SRP for example is a cleaner/polish packed with fillers and with a light sealent content. TW Gloss Guard is a pure sealent, no filling abilities or cleaning abilities to compare with SRP - two completely different products, and to compare the durability of them as they have done is a bit of pointless test. Ideally, you would use both on a detail - SRP to prep the paint, Gloss Guard for durability (for example)...


Thanks Dave

Upon further inspection you are absolutly right as i would expect, Auto express havent a clue.

Cheers 
Dave


----------



## olliecampbell

Quick question, whilst on the topic... how many coats of EGP can you layer ontop of SRP? Or doesnt it matter?


----------



## Dave KG

olliecampbell said:


> Quick question, whilst on the topic... how many coats of EGP can you layer ontop of SRP? Or doesnt it matter?


As many as you like, it wont do any harm. But you run into the law of diminshing returns... after about three layers of EGP you really see no benefit in going any further in terms of looks or durability in my experience.


----------



## martinp

Dave KG said:


> Its still going, coming up for 2 years on...
> 
> Will be getting updated this summer with new products being on the market.


It is an excellent post really good source of information especially for newbies like me.

On the update will there be any chance of including the new Poorboys black hole and diamond show glazes? As I have a dark paint that is very hard I'm interested in a product that can fill in swirls and give that gloss that I feel SRP is lacking slightly. Be very interested to see how it compares to SRP and CK RMG

Again many thanks for the work so far it's extremely useful.


----------



## Dave KG

martinp said:


> It is an excellent post really good source of information especially for newbies like me.
> 
> On the update will there be any chance of including the new Poorboys black hole and diamond show glazes? As I have a dark paint that is very hard I'm interested in a product that can fill in swirls and give that gloss that I feel SRP is lacking slightly. Be very interested to see how it compares to SRP and CK RMG
> 
> Again many thanks for the work so far it's extremely useful.


Oh I think its very probable that they will be included


----------



## Dream Machines

Last night I did some swirl removal by hand on one of our locally made cars (black metallic)
It had light to medium swirls and scratches and I got a 100% swirl free and 98% scratch free result using an orange 4 inch pad by hand with PO91L Menz

About 4 mins work time to break it down


----------



## gug54321

Has anybody seen how well the 3M stuff works, i got the hand and machine glaze reccomended by a bodyshop i do some work for ive only used the machine glaze so far which i was very happy with results after a wet flat, i dont know how well the hand glaze works just wondered if any of you have used it bearing in mind it will be a black car!

cheers


----------



## lord melch

Tell me you did the poor mistreated bonnet with your machine afterwards


----------



## gug54321

lord melch said:


> Tell me you did the poor mistreated bonnet with your machine afterwards


the finesse it and machine glaze were done by machine


----------



## edrosin

Dave,

A comprehensive and incredibly useful post - many thanks for it. I have been into detailing for quite some time now, and this site has been a Godsend. Thanks to the helpful advice of all, I currently use the following approach twice a year on my SilverGrey E46 M3:

Megs Clay + NXT Detailer as lubricant - Meguiar's Deep Crystal Cleaner - Megs 81 Polish - Collinite 845 or 476. 

I have been frustrated by the increasing number of swirls that are quite visible on the car's bonnet/roof and boot lid, despite my having all the requisite towels, MF hand towels, wash mitt, etc. Guess this is only natural after almost 5 years...

Just wanted your opinion on the following having ordered some SRP:

1. Can/should I continue to use the Megs Deep Crystal Cleaner BEFORE the SRP and the Megs 81 Polish AFTER? Or does the SRP effectively do the job of both the Cleaner and Polish?
2. Exactly what applicator pads do you use to work the SRP into the paint? I have the yellow foam applicators from Megs...
3. There was a mention of the pressure that needs to be used as you complete each pass. If I figure on 5 passes per panel, then is there a decreasing amount of pressure that I should use? Or...?

Many thanks for your input.

Eric.


----------



## Dave KG

Hi Eric, 

To answer your questions:

The SRP is effectively a cleanser and filler heavy polish in one step so it does replace the Cleasner and the #81, but there is nothing to stop you using the Cleaner first if you like. I would definitely clay first, but in honesty I would then go straight to SRP and be prepared to do multiple layers of it, as described in the thread it does need to be worked quite thoroughly to get the best out of what the product has to offer. 

Yellow foam applicators from Meguiars are absolutely ideal. 

When working SRP, I spread it around a small area with circular motions and then switch the straight lines as I find I can get more even pressure that way and with medium pressure I work the polish in or a good couple of minutes, likely be around 10+ passes at that rate. Then buff the residue clear. You can then apply further layers with lighter pressure to get the best out of the fillers without removing the fillers from the preceeding layers.

Hope that helps


----------



## Gandi

Dave you planning on updating this with some new products such as Auto Balm and Z5 etc


----------



## Dave KG

Gandi said:


> Dave you planning on updating this with some new products such as Auto Balm and Z5 etc


Yes I am, but I need to hunt for fresh panels to test on as I've run out of paint on my current stock! :lol:

This will be updated, but in the summer months


----------



## Gandi

Nice one i look forward to it


----------



## edrosin

Dave,

Many thanks for your replies, I'm now 100% clear about what to do and how to do it! Can't wait and your advice and expertise has been invaluable.

Cheers,

Eric.


----------



## ryan69

Great topic, this is really useful stuff.

How would you recommend I use AG Paint Renovator, the paint on my mini (classic mini, non metallic paint) is quite swirled and there are some buffer trails and holograms. Should I finish with SRP to refine the finish?

Can it really do as much damage as some people say if your using it by hand?


----------



## Dave KG

Paint Renovator is quite an aggressive product and the abrasives can scour the finish, similarly to T-Cut applied by hand, but as long as this scouring is not severe then SRP can tidy it up by hand. The problem is I wouldn't really want to be inflicting any damage and then using SRP to solve it as it solves it by filling - fine if its the only option and the damage is already there, but I would tend to shy away from the aggressive nature of Paint Renovator. Its not going to eat your paint for breakfast though, but I would urge caution.


----------



## ryan69

Ok thanks for the quick reply.

Think I'll just test it on a small area first.


----------



## dave-vec

Dave,

Thanks for the write up mate, awesome as usual,

I have a silver honda accord, but when i used SRP i never got results even close to this and the swirls weren't anywhere near as bad?

Do you suggest a few layers of this to get best results? I was quite disappointed to be honest i was expecting more....


----------



## Dave KG

dave-vec said:


> Dave,
> 
> Thanks for the write up mate, awesome as usual,
> 
> I have a silver honda accord, but when i used SRP i never got results even close to this and the swirls weren't anywhere near as bad?
> 
> Do you suggest a few layers of this to get best results? I was quite disappointed to be honest i was expecting more....


Try multiple layers, and also ensure you are thoroughly working the SRP - couple of minutes per section and if necessary, reduce the area you work to about 1' square to allow you to focus your efforts down


----------



## dave-vec

I think that may have been the problem to be honest mate, i don't think i was giving the product enough time, plus i'll be honest i was doing the bonnet in about 3 sections, too much eh?

need to break if down to smaller areas?

What products are good on top of SRP on silver?


----------



## Dave KG

dave-vec said:


> I think that may have been the problem to be honest mate, i don't think i was giving the product enough time, plus i'll be honest i was doing the bonnet in about 3 sections, too much eh?
> 
> need to break if down to smaller areas?
> 
> What products are good on top of SRP on silver?


It does have abrasives, if you work smaller areas and for longer then this will ive them more of a chance to do their work and you can focus on filling the swirle better in smaller areas IMHO.

On silver, try following either with Autoglym's own Extra Gloss Protection in a couple of layers which leaves a lovely glossy nuance on silver paints on top of SRP and has great durability... Or Collinite 476S wax would be my other choice.


----------



## KnightUnit

dave-vec said:


> I think that may have been the problem to be honest mate, i don't think i was giving the product enough time, plus i'll be honest i was doing the bonnet in about 3 sections, too much eh?
> 
> need to break if down to smaller areas?
> 
> What products are good on top of SRP on silver?


You could also try a hand applicator to help work the polish

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessories/sonus-sfx-pro-applicators-pkg/2/prod_31.html


----------



## dave-vec

Thanks for the replies guys ... brilliant


----------



## yulser

thanks for this dave

Briliant post and some fantastic advice!!!

One question how long should I leave the SRP on for before buffing off with a MF cloth?


----------



## Mav2006

Thanks for sharing, most useful. I'll be digging the SRP out


----------



## Goju5

Just want to say thank u a LOT for that great guide! Very useful for us newbies 

Cheers

Greg


----------



## Dave KG

I'm glad this is still proving useful 

Will be updated in the summer months incorporate new products onto the market


----------



## yulser

great stuff dave , I'll look forward to an update 

Any idea if Auto glym HD wax would be good on top of SRP or would you suggest EGP first then HD ?


----------



## Adnoh

great work dave. Look forward to seeing how AB compares to the rest.
________
XVS650


----------



## Vail3r

Just found this and I might try to remove some swirls on my dad's car. Thanks Dave KG for taking the time to do this.


----------



## stephen.haslam

*great thread here.*

Just read this from p1-p16 and like most was very suprised with the success of AG SRP. I have kept off AG products for years as dont they contain chauk(??) which creates the white powder which gets everywhere ?
This said the filler capabilities are un-deniable. Will be interesting to hear comparisons with Menz. Intensive and Bilt-hamber autobalm..is this likely to be soon??

Can you comment on how long swirls will remain hidden if use SRP followed by Megs #7 polish followed by Z**** wax all topped up using spray-on / wipe off wax ie megs ultimate detailing wax or poorboys equivalent??

Finally are many of you opting for the cotton stockingnette for final buffing in pref. to micro-fibres or terry cloths??

Most interesting read and hope it continues so we all learn from each other. Top post on Top site.


----------



## Car Key

Dave, are you going to test Menzerna Intensive Polish (P091L)? I don't know if it's likely to be any better than Menzerna Final Polish II.


----------



## Robbieben

Car Key said:


> Dave, are you going to test Menzerna Intensive Polish (P091L)? I don't know if it's likely to be any better than Menzerna Final Polish II.


it's definately better than Menz FP II but still not as good as SRP at filling defects


----------



## Car Key

Robbieben said:


> it's definately better than Menz FP II but still not as good as SRP at filling defects


 Yes, fillers for defects, but not so good if you're aiming to get max durability from say Duragloss, because proper prepping will remove the fillers, right?

The way I see it: you can get away with less polishing with SRP, then top with EGP or wax...versus...more polishing with P091L, but then having the option of Zaino/Duragloss, but how much extra polishing is involved with P091L?

Or maybe a third method: If it cuts faster than SRP, go P091L > SRP > EGP or wax. But I want to finish with DG, so no good for me.


----------



## Glossmax

Bilt-hamber seem to be compatable with Duragloss products, 
so maybe Auto-balm followed by aquawax (as this is proven to work) then 601/105/111?


----------



## tinka

i may just go back to,srp and egp,or top off the srp with duragloss 111.

its funny,you always end up going back to where you started


----------



## DimitriKatsaros

*time between passes/hits?*

Hey there

Just curious... after working in and buffing off SRP, is there a curing time that one should wait on before doing SRP again?

Thanks
Dimitri Katsaros


----------



## Dave KG

DimitriKatsaros said:


> Hey there
> 
> Just curious... after working in and buffing off SRP, is there a curing time that one should wait on before doing SRP again?
> 
> Thanks
> Dimitri Katsaros


No curing time here - just one hit after another


----------



## shilz

Great write up that! Thanks Dave


----------



## Tyrrell

Dave try CG wet mirror finish, I applied it to my swirly paint over the weekend and it left my finish looking flawless !!! Awesome product. 

I applied with finshing pad and PC, but i'm sure it would work by hand. 

Dave


----------



## maddoguk

Outstanding write-up. I am learning more each time I visit this site.

:newbie:


----------



## Dave KG

Tyrrell said:


> Dave try CG wet mirror finish, I applied it to my swirly paint over the weekend and it left my finish looking flawless !!! Awesome product.
> 
> I applied with finshing pad and PC, but i'm sure it would work by hand.
> 
> Dave


Sounds good mate, I'll give it a go.  :thumb:


----------



## PWOOD

Dave when are going to report on Bilthamber. From what I have read its meant to fill better than the all time great SRP without the dusting and the staining of plastics. Thing is after all these years SRP nearly always ends up being reverted to (you'd think I'd learn!). Race Glaze Crem perfection seems to contain fillers but no one seems to commented on thos properties.


----------



## Dave KG

PWOOD said:


> Dave when are going to report on Bilthamber. From what I have read its meant to fill better than the all time great SRP without the dusting and the staining of plastics. Thing is after all these years SRP nearly always ends up being reverted to (you'd think I'd learn!). Race Glaze Crem perfection seems to contain fillers but no one seems to commented on thos properties.


Review here http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=76927

BH performs well, SRP had the measure of it for me though in pure correction stakes...


----------



## PWOOD

Cheers there was a tad too many BH threads and thought the findings would be on this thread. Just off nightshift so now in energy conservation mode:lol:

Just read the above thread and seems I might as well continue with AG SRP followed my NXT tech wax as its seems to provide a real depth that I can't see being easily beat unless I follow with some UQD. Only issue I have with sealants like that are the potential for dust to settle whilst drying for about 30mins and the potential for scratching when I wipe it off. Hence why I was interested in trying BH as its removed straight away.


----------



## Bilt-Hamber Lab

Dave KG said:


> Review here http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=76927
> 
> BH performs well, SRP had the measure of it for me though in pure correction stakes...


In a side-by-side with the swirl reduction method followed?


----------



## Dave KG

Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> In a side-by-side with the swirl reduction method followed?


Its all in the thread linked to above - side by side, methods of application detailed within, BH knocked back the light to medium swirls, SRP tackled some of the more severe marks as well and generally demonstrated better correction for me personally. As stressed in that thread, this is for me personally though you will note that overall BH came out on top for its durability and extra it added to the looks. Correction alone though, I have tried several different application methods with lots of different applicators and cloths and not been able to get AB to match SRP in the correction stakes - no bad thing, baring in mind how good SRP is at dealing with marks by both filling and light abrasives, the latter I suspect giving it the edge as you can benefit truly from multiple hits with abrasives.


----------



## Bilt-Hamber Lab

Dave KG said:


> Its all in the thread linked to above - side by side, methods of application detailed within, BH knocked back the light to medium swirls, SRP tackled some of the more severe marks as well and generally demonstrated better correction for me personally.


This is interesting . We found that anhydrous aluminium silicate could increase the hologramic scratching. On number count of swirl lines the angle of view is one of the biggest variables when judging this. On close competing products the panels are best placed directly adjacent to each other to see the difference - pretty sure there will be one. Good write-up Dave.

All the best

Pete


----------



## Dave KG

Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> This is interesting . We found that anhydrous aluminium silicate could increase the hologramic scratching. On number count of swirl lines the angle of view is one of the biggest variables when judging this. On close competing products the panels are best placed directly adjacent to each other to see the difference - pretty sure there will be one. Good write-up Dave.
> 
> All the best
> 
> Pete


I can redo the comparison between these two if you like, and use the 3M Sun Gun to assess it, with the gun tilted at various different angles - this I generally do as I like to tilt the gun around when assessing my own machine finishing and it becomes force of habbit... If only I had a better camera for video to represent that, as you can tell a lot from movement of the light source as well...

However, if you dont mind a product comparison being done in public and those at the NW meet dont mind this coming Sunday, I could do the comparison at the meet for a few folks to see and comment on...?


----------



## Bilt-Hamber Lab

Dave KG said:


> I can redo the comparison between these two if you like, and use the 3M Sun Gun to assess it, with the gun tilted at various different angles - this I generally do as I like to tilt the gun around when assessing my own machine finishing and it becomes force of habbit... If only I had a better camera for video to represent that, as you can tell a lot from movement of the light source as well...
> 
> However, if you dont mind a product comparison being done in public and those at the NW meet dont mind this coming Sunday, I could do the comparison at the meet for a few folks to see and comment on...?


Top man! If you've got time it would be great information with both natural light and directional - both products directly adjacent and a blind test would be fun. I would like to send you our new applicator pad that we send out with every tub now too. We changed them recently to get a better film deposition and easier to use too. Thanks. Could you PM me your address?

Thanks

Pete


----------



## Dave KG

Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> Top man! If you've got time it would be great information with both natural light and directional - both products directly adjacent and a blind test would be fun. I would like to send you our new applicator pad that we send out with every tub now too. We changed them recently to get a better film deposition and easier to use too. Thanks. Could you PM me your address?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Pete


Cheers mate, you have PM :thumb:


----------



## Guest

I will watch this test in person, so Dave if you could give a shout when your about to do it!

I think it says alot for Pete/Bilt-Hamber that they are activly pushing for a public comparison, shows they have faith in their products.

How many other companies would do that?


----------



## Dave KG

matt1263 said:


> I will watch this test in person, so Dave if you could give a shout when your about to do it!
> 
> I think it says alot for Pete/Bilt-Hamber that they are activly pushing for a public comparison, shows they have faith in their products.
> 
> How many other companies would do that?


It does indeed say a lot for a compant IMHO when they prmote their products in such a way, as it leaves the product wide open to show its stuff in a completely uncontrolled environment where peolpe can see it and try it themselves... speaks leaps and bounds for a copany's confidence for sure. :thumb:


----------



## Bilt-Hamber Lab

matt1263 said:


> I will watch this test in person, so Dave if you could give a shout when your about to do it!
> 
> I think it says alot for Pete/Bilt-Hamber that they are activly pushing for a public comparison, shows they have faith in their products.
> 
> How many other companies would do that?


We're always interested in this kind of thing. Autobalm was developed as a protective material first off - so that it imparts real anti-corrosion protection to stone chip sites and fills capillary pores between paint pigments that otherwise leads to paint film failure. I know I harp on about salt-spray testing but that's THE one used by coating manufacturers for coating durability. It'll have been used on your car's paint that's for sure. For years beading, sheeting and contact angle have been the standard tests for waxes and LSPs, but they are all no good at indicating protection - I've had the most inflated cost-wise carnauba materials in the cabinet and literally 5-10 minutes sees corrosion. Same with expensive sealers.

While the swirl hiding was something we worked on it was a bit of side-shoot to the film formers and it's nice to see it being used for it. SRP is a great product and it's abrasive content will allow it to cut the paint film and I've often used it for that purpose myself. Paint swirl reduction is a difficult one to judge - we found that direct side-by-side with only tape between (then removed before judging) helped to see what can be just incremental differences.

I must say too that it's great that Dave spends his time doing this kind of thing - thanks.:thumb:

Pete


----------



## kennethsross

Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> I must say too that it's great that Dave spends his time doing this kind of thing - thanks.:thumb:
> 
> Pete


And keeps his PhD supervisor happy at the same time - I find that really impressive! (Maybe offering the External a free detail is a good way to avoid a re-write - not that I think for one minute you'll be facing that when the time comes, Dave


----------



## volvo244lad

Right, ive just been searching around the forum for the best swirl mark removal product and it seems that SRP is as good as anything (and I can get it dirt cheap! hehe )

At the moment all my car has had is the paint slightly cut using AG paint renovator and numerous coats of BH autobahm.

The reason it has so many swirl marks is that when my grandad owned the car (i.e. from 1980 to 2002 when he died) it was just washed with your typical bucket, sponge, and household washing up liquid (is that a swear word on here?!)

What I want to know is whether if I apply SRP 5 times over to the car, and then give the car a coat or two of autobalm, will the autobalm affect the layers of SRP?

Anything else I should be thinking about?

Steve

P.S: needless to say I now use a washmitt to wash my car! (and use BH autowash)


----------



## PJS

Potentially a good chance the chemical action within AB will strip what little protection SRP provides on its own. If you'd done a few EGP layers, I'd have said it'd sit on top nicely, but AB has enough fillers itself to do the job of SRP anyhow.
So, in all honesty, I'd just IPA the SRP off after using it for knocking back the swirls/etc, then apply the Balm x2 to do its thing.


----------



## volvo244lad

whats IPA mean?

By the way, I have some EGP but I also have some UDS - would that work instead of buying some SRP? Is it basically the same stuff?


----------



## Dave KG

volvo244lad said:


> whats IPA mean?
> 
> By the way, I have some EGP but I also have some UDS - would that work instead of buying some SRP? Is it basically the same stuff?


IPA - Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol).

Used to wipe panels down to a completely clean surface 

And no, you cannot use EGP over UDS, wont work - EGP is at its best over SRP.


----------



## volvo244lad

So if I get some SRP and do several coats until im happy it wont get much better, then apply 2 or 3 coats of EGP, then carry on using my autobalm from then onwards....would that work sell to remove swirls?


----------



## PJS

From my perspective, I think you're going completely overboard with nothing additional to show for the effort and time expended.
Plain and simple - use SRP for the abrasives to knock back the swirls/light scratches, leave it on and apply a layer of EGP over it, then a layer of AB.
Alternatively, sell/give the EGP and Uwhatever to someone, and get a drop of IPA (99%, not the 75% rubbing alcohol version!) from ebay or our member trader i4detailing.co.uk, and use it watered down to 50% strength.
Put on 2 layers of AB, and that's the job done.
You could forego the IPA, but I wouldn't, if using SRP - but that's me.


----------



## volvo244lad

but how can i leave the SRP on? Surely it will just buff off when I buff off the EGP?

I really am confused now.

EDIT: dont bother answering - im going to start my own thread and people can suggest any other products they think will be better.


----------



## Cozzer

Ive used Zym Cleaner wax, the coconutty smelling one you can get at halfrauds. It says on the bottle it can fill light scratches too. Ive used it once or twice and the finish is quite glossy. It managed to fill some minor swirls on my car, underneath the door handles where your finger nails scratch the paint. Any chance you could test that as well.


----------



## PJS

volvo244lad said:


> but how can i leave the SRP on? Surely it will just buff off when I buff off the EGP?
> 
> I really am confused now.


EGP or whatever is the topmost layer, is the one which will be buffed - the one underneath has already been buffed, so the next layer locks that one in, so it doesn't get touched during the buffing process.
What you're thinking of, is some LSPs can be chemically 'abrasive', and as such, could remove the underlying layer whilst being applied.
This is different from the buffing aspect once it has set-up.


----------



## volvo244lad

Im completely baffled!


----------



## superstring

volvo244lad said:


> Im completely baffled!


OK, let me try.  SRP is what is called an all in one product. It cleans the paint surface AND leaves behind a thin layer of (acrylic) protection. It also contains "fillers". Thus this thin layer also serves to hide fine swirls/scratches.

When you buff SRP, you are removing what it has cleaned off the paint surface plus the "excess" SRP; you are still leaving behind a layer of protection. Applying an additional treatment of SRP may have some benefit as you probably will have missed some areas during the initial treatment and a second layer will (hopefully) find these areas.

Then, for extra protection, EGP is applied on top of the paint surface which has been prepped with SRP. EGP is formulated to bind to and sit on top of the SRP, not remove it. After allowing it to cure, it too is buffed. This buffing probably removes "a bit" of the EGP but, once again, a thin layer is left behind. This layer is far more durable than the SRP layer which, of course, is now underneath.

Clear as mud??


----------



## volvo244lad

Righto I understand now!

Is this what is recomended then to remove the swirls on my paintwork as well as possible without going overboard buying loads of expensive products and a machine polisher.

Can I then use my autobalm over the top as before? I know that if you put other products over the top of autobalm it supposedly removes it....

Steve


----------



## superstring

volvo244lad said:


> Righto I understand now!
> 
> Is this what is recomended then to remove the swirls on my paintwork as well as possible without going overboard buying loads of expensive products and a machine polisher.
> 
> Can I then use my autobalm over the top as before? I know that if you put other products over the top of autobalm it supposedly removes it....
> 
> Steve


Steve, while obviously SRP can be used by hand and produce good results, if you're serious about making your car look its' best, I would lay out the extra cash and buy an orbital polisher (Porter Cable, UDM, Meguiar's 220), a few foam pads and some microfibre buffing towels. You don't need to buy "loads of expensive products"; you can get by with SRP/EGP or, perhaps, that CG Swirl Remover mentioned in the other thread you started.

The polisher will cut your work time in half (or more) and provide a much better result in the long run. And, like I said, by carefully choosing a couple of well established products, you won't have to spend (and waste) a lot of money.

Or, if you're stuck on doing the job by hand, why not try the SRP/EGP approach? It'll cost you next to nothing and give you some experience as to what can be achieved that way.

As far as the Autobalm goes, I, personally, have no experience with it, so I leave it to others to answer that part of your question.

Good luck!


----------



## PWOOD

Tried a wing with BH autobalm over SRP and then after a wipe with AG Tar remover went straight for the BH Autobalm. Finish wise I think the AB direct looked better and from what I have read from BH they advise applying direct to the paint as it will last a lot longer. Swirl wise I think the AB is a match or indeed better than SRP as its hard to say one way or the other. The reason I went for AB is that it can be applied over everything avoiding the heavy staining of plastics and does not need an LSP for longevity. The other feature I like is that stone chips dont get full of white residue. AB is tricker to use and first time likely to result in a few smears but as i got round the car its got easier to avoid. Decent MF cloths are a must.


----------



## ELBOW GREASE

Great Work Really Informative. Thank You For The Time You Spent.


----------



## 1999grad

Amazing post, very useful as always, Dave.


----------



## MikeSel^

Great guide (thanked) made interesting reading, and has given me an more informed approach to buying products!


----------



## 1999grad

Can I use SRP with an orbital polisher and Menzerna orange pad? Or white pad maybe? I only have those two. I'm sort of afraid of using the orange pad and inflicting damage to the paint, thinking it might have too much cutting power when used with SRP.

Thanks in advance for any answer.


----------



## VIPER

1999grad said:


> Can I use SRP with an orbital polisher and Menzerna orange pad? Or white pad maybe? I only have those two. I'm sort of afraid of using the orange pad and inflicting damage to the paint, thinking it might have too much cutting power when used with SRP.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any answer.


Yes you can use SRP in that way but I'd agree with you about not using the white compounding pad - that would be way too harsh for what you're intending to do. Even the orange polishing pad some say would be a bit too much but I think if it's been pre-washed and softened a bit then it will be okay. Not sure what kind of defects you're attempting to tackle, or what your paint hardness is etc., but be aware that the SRP, although having a small degree of abrasives, will tend to 'fill' the scratches/swirls rather than remove them.


----------



## Jim W

1999grad said:


> Can I use SRP with an orbital polisher and Menzerna orange pad? Or white pad maybe? I only have those two. I'm sort of afraid of using the orange pad and inflicting damage to the paint, thinking it might have too much cutting power when used with SRP.


SRP is a great product, for machine or hand application.

I've used the PC7424 DA with various polishing pads (never cuttting..) and had some great results.

See this S-TYPE Jaguar I worked on with SRP and a polishing pad.










Or even this faded Vauxhall Astra I worked on. Not so much hiding the defects, but relieving the paint from the nasty oxidation.










Remember, with the likes of the 50/50 on the Jag, it isn't actually removing swirls, but masking/filling them. A more abrasive polish would be needed if this is what you wanted to do.. something like Menz Final Finish or Intensive Polish (worked with machine)

Hope this helps.


----------



## Dave KG

Pit Viper said:


> Yes you can use SRP in that way but I'd agree with you about not using the white compounding pad - that would be way too harsh for what you're intending to do. Even the orange polishing pad some say would be a bit too much but I think if it's been pre-washed and softened a bit then it will be okay. Not sure what kind of defects you're attempting to tackle, or what your paint hardness is etc., but be aware that the SRP, although having a small degree of abrasives, will tend to 'fill' the scratches/swirls rather than remove them.


I would agree, the orange pad on medium to hard paints would be fine but risks scouring more delicate soft finishes though the fillers in SRP would likely cover this up, you could be inflicting damage and not know it...

I'd sooner use it on a polishing pad such as the soft Meguiars W8006 Yellow polishing pad.


----------



## VIPER

That's a very good point you make there, Dave - SRP's forte (it's amazing filling ability) could be its own undoing in a way if his paint is one of the softer ones and the orange Menz pad _does_ inflict some fine marring - the SRP would be filling and 'masking' it as it's happening, so yes I'm totally in agreement there that he could be damaging the paint yet to the naked eye immediately after the job, it would look good. Under harsh lighting and after several washes and/or bad weather that would gradually wash away the fillers, the true finish would be revealed. All depends on the car in question I suppose.


----------



## 1999grad

I'm really sorry but I made a mistake, my pads aren't Menzerna, but Lake Country. Can I re-write the question? Can I use SRP as a single-step product for my lightly-swirled 10-month old Chrysler with orange Lake CCS pads? Or should I use the white pad? In Lake's scale (click here) orange is described as "light cutting" while white is "polishing".

I guess the most sensible choice would be to use the white pad, since the Meguiar's yellow foam applicator that Dave used for the test doesn't have any cutting power.

White and orange Lake Country pads are the only ones I've got now and I'd prefer not having to buy new ones.

Thanks for your previous answers Jim W, Pit Viper and Dave KG! You're great.


----------



## addsvrs

Great write up thanks


----------



## VIPER

1999grad said:


> I'm really sorry but I made a mistake, my pads aren't Menzerna, but Lake Country. Can I re-write the question? Can I use SRP as a single-step product for my lightly-swirled 10-month old Chrysler with orange Lake CCS pads? Or should I use the white pad? In Lake's scale (click here) orange is described as "light cutting" while white is "polishing".
> 
> I guess the most sensible choice would be to use the white pad, since the Meguiar's yellow foam applicator that Dave used for the test doesn't have any cutting power.
> 
> White and orange Lake Country pads are the only ones I've got now and I'd prefer not having to buy new ones.
> 
> Thanks for your previous answers Jim W, Pit Viper and Dave KG! You're great.


Personally I wouldn't use the orange cutting pad with SRP, it will be too harsh for that product. tbh. even the white one might be a tad abrasive for SRP but if you do a test on an unconspicuous area first or a test panel, if you have one, you might be okay. Out of the LC range the green one would have been better, but since you don't have it, as I said, the white one might be okay if you test it first.


----------



## Vyker

Dave, when you say "hit"....

What does that involve?, are we talking rubbing it in with firm pressure for 5mins, leaving to cure then buff, constituting one "hit" ?

If that's the case, then 5 "hits" of SRP on one panel will take an hour and leave you with dead arms!


----------



## Dave KG

Vyker said:


> Dave, when you say "hit"....
> 
> What does that involve?, are we talking rubbing it in with firm pressure for 5mins, leaving to cure then buff, constituting one "hit" ?
> 
> If that's the case, then 5 "hits" of SRP on one panel will take an hour and leave you with dead arms!


Yes that is a hit, and polishing by hand is a very time consuming process - why many favour machine polishing but it is always possible by hand if you are willing to put in the tme effort with the correct tools.


----------



## colarado red

been using srp for years top product and interesting post:thumb::thumb::thumb:


----------



## XSOUL

I people (sorry my english ok?)

well my question is about...



Dave KG said:


> (...)
> *1Z Wax Polish Soft*
> 
> A filler heavy product that also leaves a layer of protection behind it as well, from the 1Z stable so a quality product this one...
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> This product was then worked into the paint in circular motions, and straight lines for about two minutes per hit until it started to go a little bit tacky... It was then removed with a Megs Ultimate Wipe, the residue coming away with ease.
> 
> Results after three hits:
> 
> 
> Results after five hits:
> 
> 
> The vast mojority of the light swilrs were removed with this product, only the deeper scratches remianing. What really impressed me with the 1Z was the deep glossy shine that it left on the red paint, another excellent product.
> 
> (...)


i have in portugal this product, but i test him in a fiat punto... and i make something rong.

i make by this
*i put a small coin* (prduct 1Z WPS) in a german pad (black) anda i pass in the car horizontally and vertically same times, but i not shore if i make well... 

after i use this product 1Z can i pass a selant or a paste wax?

nice test guide Dave KG

i thank's for the attention, sorry my english (i'm portuguese)

XSOUL


----------



## gt5500

Dave KG said:


> Yes that is a hit, and polishing by hand is a very time consuming process - why many favour machine polishing but it is always possible by hand if you are willing to put in the tme effort with the correct tools.


I wish I had the energy to try it that but I suspect on my hard BMW paint it would take a lot of time and effort. Think I will just wait till next year and get a rotary, your guide has inspired me to try it myself.


----------



## XSOUL

good day is that someone can tell me if I used the correct method? on issues that I raised here earlier


----------



## Zetec-SS

great post DaveKG, SRP is the ONE!!!


----------



## shabba

very helpful dave!
thanks man!!


----------



## MAXI-MILAN

Exellent right up:thumb:


----------



## Car Key

Where can you purchase Prima Amigo Hand Glaze from? I can't see it listed on SP's site any more.


----------



## ben_init

wow , i brought some autoglym srp it came in a pack , i was slightly disapointed as it didnt really do much for the swerls so do i just do it like 5 times all over befor waxing ? pm me if u like with answe , this post is very helpful tho


----------



## [email protected]

Some of the pictures seem to missing, well most of the pictures people above says wow too /doh. Any chance of a re-post?


----------



## maxc

HI , I have just used srp to remove/hide some swirl marks on my 08 cmax[ garage inflicted, they washed with brush on forecourt for 2 months before we brought it; did not notice until direct sunlight hit it afew weeks later aargh] my question is can you put ultra deep shine [uds] over the top of it to give it a glossy top coat and how long will the effect last; colour of my car is very dark red almost black....?? anyone?

Thanks


----------



## gug54321

i would carry on with the SRP to be honest, ive used both on black and cannot notice the difference in finish. for a nicer and longer lasting effect do a couple of layers of AG EGP

cheers


----------



## maxc

Thanks for the reply, think you may be right, this is the first dark car i have had and the marks under direct sunlight are awful, told the garage we brought it from but if they did this once afraid they could make it worse. Have tried meg 1,2,3 but found this to be awful and stage 1,2 seemed to leave even more marks , so as a last resort , before getting someone to buff it all out, tried SRP, did x3 goes at it on the doors[ as this is where the worst ones are] and seems to have reduced although have not seen in direct sunlight yet only checked out with very bright torch...fingers crossed.

Another thing i seem to find with alot of the polishes/waxes is they look great in the shade when you do them but again in sunlight they seem to leave very greasy marks; spend along time buffing off with mf cloth; sometimes ok, sometimes not. I must admit i wished I had gone for a lighter colour car as all this wax/polish buying trying is doing my head in; think i must have worn away the top coat by now as i have tried so many things; going crazy , and my wife thinks i am nuts....

again thanks.


----------



## gug54321

first off your not nuts 21333 and counting members cant be nuts! you will find it will get better with every application to a certain extent, dont try to go for perfect because it doent stay like it for long, and im sure your clearcoat will take it with srp. just dont over apply each product as most of the time less is more, this is whare you could be getting the greasy marks which are probably wax holograms which seem to show more on darker paints and this is usually from over application of a polish/wax which i have noticed with most products if applied to thick. Also be wary of the weather conditions as this can vary the chance of holograms usually very hot or very cold/damp conditions which is usually one or the other in this country.

have fun


----------



## mellowfellow

Pit Viper said:


> That's a very good point you make there, Dave - SRP's forte (it's amazing filling ability) could be its own undoing in a way if his paint is one of the softer ones and the orange Menz pad _does_ inflict some fine marring - the SRP would be filling and 'masking' it as it's happening, so yes I'm totally in agreement there that he could be damaging the paint yet to the naked eye immediately after the job, it would look good. Under harsh lighting and after several washes and/or bad weather that would gradually wash away the fillers, the true finish would be revealed. All depends on the car in question I suppose.


.
Is there a chart on this site or a guide to paint hardness with respect to manufacturers ? 
I did my whole car at weekend with a white LCC pad and SRP using a MAC ROS and i must admit results are not as good as i expected > Would the black LCC pad be better and safer than the white ? thanks .
It has been said SRP is great with machine but what is the best combo for a ROS .

ps i spread at speed 1-2 then polished at speed 4-5 , machine was never up at maximum.


----------



## PWOOD

maxc said:


> Thanks for the reply, think you may be right, this is the first dark car i have had and the marks under direct sunlight are awful, told the garage we brought it from but if they did this once afraid they could make it worse. Have tried meg 1,2,3 but found this to be awful and stage 1,2 seemed to leave even more marks , so as a last resort , before getting someone to buff it all out, tried SRP, did x3 goes at it on the doors[ as this is where the worst ones are] and seems to have reduced although have not seen in direct sunlight yet only checked out with very bright torch...fingers crossed.
> 
> Another thing i seem to find with alot of the polishes/waxes is they look great in the shade when you do them but again in sunlight they seem to leave very greasy marks; spend along time buffing off with mf cloth; sometimes ok, sometimes not. I must admit i wished I had gone for a lighter colour car as all this wax/polish buying trying is doing my head in; think i must have worn away the top coat by now as i have tried so many things; going crazy , and my wife thinks i am nuts....
> 
> again thanks.


If its bad SRP will not work miracles but reduce swirls to bearable in most cases. From what you are saying you are applying to much product and not using decent buffing micro fibre cloths. The Megs stage 123 is not worth the effort if swirls are your main problem continue with SRP apply it as indicated at the start of this post.


----------



## k1rkyc

I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to say thanks Dave - I have found it a really interesting read. I already have some AG SRP at home and did one panel last week - it's looks great! Going to invest in some AG EGP and hopefully do the rest at the weekend (weather permitting!)


----------



## pmanson

I managed to get a mate's BMW from this:



















to this:



















Via Sonus Hand Polish Bundle (Restore & Final Finish) and Megs #16.

Was hard but rewarding work!


----------



## NewYaris

excellent write up Dave

Look like this post been left out for a while ... 

How about megs 205 by hand? is it possible?


----------



## vince

Im so happy to find this post, I work at GSF car parts (German Swedish and French) and we stock AG products which i can get at cost plus VAT. 

Just brought home today some AG SRP and EGP...after reading this i cant wait to get cracking on my swirls


----------



## millns84

I managed to remove the swirls off one panel of the V70 last week with one of those strap on light cut pads and 3M swirl remover. Left a very nice finish too! Took about 20 minutes for one panel mind, so I don't fancy doing the whole car!


----------



## waxin'lyrical

Really excellent stuff, Dave! Our non-pro users often ask for recommendations for swirl removal by hand and we have been reluctant to suggest specific products, not having carried out comprehensive tests. Now they can see for themselves your posting in DW. Sincere thanks. Patrick Baird


----------



## titanflux

Does anyone know where some of the pics went from this guide?


----------



## Gandi

Just pointed some one in the direction of this thread and most of the pics are gone, doesnt really help lol


----------



## t1blk

excellent write up and great pics for reference,


----------



## lpoolck

Great results with the SRP, I have always thought the AG range seems to be overlooked on DW, I myself am a fan.


----------



## t1blk

well after reading this thread last week I thought I'd give the Autoglm SRP a go on my old Jag XJS before I sell it , WOW what a job, worked wonders, she looks miles better now :thumb: thanks a bunch.


----------



## borinous

Awesome thread i already use AG SRP never thought to apply it 5 times to reduce swirls as wasnt aware of its cutting capabilitys. Will be trying this out for sure. Just need to get myself some EGP to go on top.


----------



## uruk hai

SRP and EGP is a very good and durable combo :thumb:


----------



## asifsarwar

i just used dodo lime prime on my bmw and some megs scratch x and it does well. great thread dave!


----------



## burtz

whats the best cloth to use with SRP?


----------



## uruk hai

If you mean to apply it I use a round MF applicator pad.


----------



## joshtbh

does polishing by hand (with SRP for example) reduce the paint thickness? I have a Honda which apparantly has thin paint and I'm worried about polishing it too much. thanks.


----------



## -Kev-

joshtbh said:


> does polishing by hand (with SRP for example) reduce the paint thickness? I have a Honda which apparantly has thin paint and I'm worried about polishing it too much. thanks.


SRP only has a slight cut - not enough to remove a noticable amount of paint tbh. you should only need to polish a couple of times a year away really


----------



## -Kev-

burtz said:


> whats the best cloth to use with SRP?


use an applicator to apply and a plush microfibre cloth to buff off the residue. applying with a cloth wastes product as it soaks in..


----------



## joshtbh

-Kev- said:


> use an applicator to apply and a plush microfibre cloth to buff off the residue. applying with a cloth wastes product as it soaks in..


what's the best value applicator then? I must admit, I used expensive MF cloths to apply and buff as I wanted the softest possible material. Would love to know what the OP applied and buffed with.


----------



## paulmc08

Great thread Dave,i too did somthing very simular and posted it here,after being shot down and literally told that i was talking doo doo,so i needed to prove a point,i used the Meg's step two Crystal Polish,followed with a layer of Nxt wax on a un loved 1998 A6,it's far from perfect but show's what can be achieved,from product's that arent highly rated:thumb:


----------



## RP john

Paul you should be in your bed!!

which side did you do with the polish? 

only jokin. you've done a great job, did you do that by hand?


----------



## paulmc08

RP john said:


> Paul you should be in your bed!!
> 
> which side did you do with the polish?
> 
> only jokin. you've done a great job, did you do that by hand?


lol,i'm still trying to convince myself i'm still young,yes John, all done by hand


----------



## PIT

Very good test. Now i feel that i have to give SRP a go myself.


----------



## NickMal

srp is great by hand...


----------



## mahol

i love SRP but as you say it is usually forgotten about


----------



## rhino335

Nice post, thanks


----------



## tuggers

Again i think srp is an overlooked polish, both by amatures and professionals and in my opinion one of if not the best hand polish on the market!! The finish you get for the ease of use is amazing!!

Too many people are hung up on brand names, and which brand they should be using, i find collinite 476 and egp also a victim of this, bothe like srp are fantastic products which can hold their own with the most expensive out there!!


----------



## Puntostar

Amazing results! Think i need to try harder with my srp next time :thumb:


----------



## heilancoo

amazing, better dig out the srp again:detailer:


----------



## gardenerbmw

top write up dave,it may take alot of time and patience but must be worth it for us who cant use machines and arent prepared to spend £600 for a two day detail,cheers paul


----------



## efendy

Dream Machines said:


> Yes it can be done by hand. Just takes four to five minutes with good pads (not them meguiars yellow things)


Hi , what you mean "good pads" for Autoglym SRP ?

I want to buy SRP and Meguiars High Tech Foam Applicator Pads


----------



## Dmac1969

Great thread this , and even one layer of SRP does wonders for the light swirling on my Golf GTI.


----------



## Alex23

when you applied the AG SRP did you apply and buff of 5 times? sordid you do it another way?


----------



## clean car/bike

I am just awaiting delivery of a New Audi A1. Misano red. 
(A bright red, metallic/pearl factory standard colour.)

Do you experienced members think AG SRP (2-3 Passes?) then maybe a couple of 
layers of ???? what sealant. I don't really want the expense of a machine but want to start off right.


----------



## v8ddg

great article


----------



## crosscyl

Just went through this thread and feel quite happy to own the good old SRP. I guess could give the newer AG Radiant Wax a try once I'm through with my bottle of SRP.


----------



## Trip tdi

Great post dave, very informative and free flowing, straight to the point.

Thanks for this great post.


----------



## Dave KG

We've got some updated results from the new SRP which I will get round to posting up soon as well - lesson planning taking most of my time up just now, but will try to get the tests up very soon


----------



## mohebmhanna

Very impressive right up Dave. Could you please explain that to me is SRP containes any abrasive or its AIO and containes nuba wax and sealant? Can I use it as much as I wish since its AIO.


----------



## Tombs

This is a Great review!!

I tried SRP for the first time last week on a Blk Mercedes and it leaves a Nice mirrior like finish, but reading this thread i've just learnt to apply more coats for an even greater finish!

THANKS DAVE:thumb:


----------



## Alan W

Dave,

You need to try some of the other new prodcts now available such as AF Rejuvenate and Tripple. 

Alan W


----------



## Dave KG

Alan W said:


> Dave,
> 
> You need to try some of the other new prodcts now available such as AF Rejuvenate and Tripple.
> 
> Alan W


Have already been playing with them


----------



## Alan W

Dave KG said:


> Have already been playing with them


Good man! :thumb: Look forward to your findings. 

Alan W


----------



## Kotsos

What about Gtechnique P1?


----------



## MAXI-MILAN

I applied NXT 2.0 by rotary 700 rpm with 3m finishing pad :thumb: NXT 2.0 fills light 
swirls very nice maybe better than some glazes ! and leaves lovely deeeeeeep finish !


----------



## batu

top thread mate! great write up... could you also experiment with the poorboys Black Hole? realy would like to see the outcome of that one. 
once again top stuff


----------



## MTFU

If i was to apply some SRP, followed by EGP and then finally a layer of wax, roughly how long would the protection last?

Would re-applying the layers over again when required be a simple case of repeating the above or would i need to remove the layers using a specific product?

Thanks


----------



## scottys.m3

Learnt alot thanks. Very new and a couple questions. 

If I wanted to do Srp a bit quicker with my da I hav not used yet! Which merzerna pad would I use please?

Would I be able to put on a poor boys White diamond or megs #7 to make a bit more shiny then 476 it all. Never even really heard of glaze before 

Final question lol, how come megs ultimate compound was not part of test, as I read the bottle it would b a perfect candidate 

Realised I have been applying with a bit of bad technique after reading this. Not enough passes an bit less product , too much rush I suppose. 

Thanks


----------



## uruk hai

MTFU said:


> If i was to apply some SRP, followed by EGP and then finally a layer of wax, roughly how long would the protection last?
> 
> Would re-applying the layers over again when required be a simple case of repeating the above or would i need to remove the layers using a specific product?
> 
> Thanks


I would think that the above combo should last a good few months but as always it depends on several factors regarding how and where the car spends most of its time and what sort of conditions it is subject to ?

I have used the SRP, EGP, Wax trio many times and have been very happy with the resuts. You could do all three and then top up from time to time with the wax you used to top it off with but if you wish to use all 3 products again you would effectively remove what ever was left the next time you applied SRP which obviously would put you back to sqaure one !


----------



## Danny.R

Great review I wish I new that SRP could do that by hand I would have used it more often to remove light defects, I might give it a go with my PCXP or Makita with a green Uber pad.


----------



## viperfire

Danny.R said:


> Great review I wish I new that SRP could do that by hand I would have used it more often to remove light defects, I might give it a go with my PCXP or Makita with a green Uber pad.


srp is a ****ing awesome product!:thumb:


----------



## Hercs74

Hi All.... What a great thread... I am new to detailing, so much so I'm yet to detail a car properly.... My wife took delivery of a brand new Nissan Juke KURO in metallic black. I've already noticed some very light swirls, which I can only imagine has been caused by the poor prep by the dealers.

I want to do some work on her car and get the swirls out and get the car sealed polished and waxed....

Can I be advised on how best get rid of the light swirls and get the car looking awesome....

Meguiars do a product called SWIRL X... Anyone know if its any good...??? or shall I stick with the AG SRP and EGP method...

By the way Im so knew to this the abbreviations are so confussing. Took me ages to work out AG was AutoGlym and SRP was super Resin Protection... :lol:

Please any feedback advice be great.. Oh and when doing all this detailing what is best Temp to be working in.....??? Dont really want to be making extra hard work for myself...

Regards


----------



## uruk hai

I have Swirl X and while it does work I found it to be a very mild product with only limited cut when using it by hand. I bought Megs Ultimate compound and found that had a lot more "bite" than Swirl X making it a very effective product when used by hand.

Super resign polish is a very good product but it has a very low level of cut but does a very good job at filling and masking swirls.

Hope this helps a bit :thumb:


----------



## Hercs74

uruk hai said:


> I have Swirl X and while it does work I found it to be a very mild product with only limited cut when using it by hand. I bought Megs Ultimate compound and found that had a lot more "bite" than Swirl X making it a very effective product when used by hand.
> 
> Super resign polish is a very good product but it has a very low level of cut but does a very good job at filling and masking swirls.
> 
> Hope this helps a bit :thumb:


Thanks that really helps...!!

So if you were me and were about to attack the new car, how would you do it and what products would you use..???

:newbie:


----------



## Duke Wellington

Hercs74 said:


> So if you were me and were about to attack the new car, how would you do it and what products would you use..???
> 
> :newbie:


I would get the Gtechniq P1 Nanocomposite Polish, this works well on Nissan paint. You can use this by hand, however, if you can use a polishing machine that would be far quicker.

They sell a hand polish kit, I would advise getting a second Tri Foam Polish Pad, just in case the first is dropped or springs out of your hand.


----------



## Hercs74

So G1 with machine polisher be best for Nissan then...

So a good machine polisher that doesn't break the bank..

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## uruk hai

P1 for the paint, G1 is for the glass although I would recommend that, it is a cracking product :thumb:

http://gtechniq.com/shop/3s-for-cars/polishing/p1-nanocomposite-polish/

Click on the link then have a look at the 2 video clips at the bottom of the page, it'll give you a good idea of what P1 can do. Bear in mind that in the clips it is only a very small area that is worked and to do a whole car with it by hand is a fair bit of work, good product though and I get on with it.


----------



## mrlesa110

i didnt expect super resin polish to win the test just goes to show. Les


----------



## Hercs74

I used P1 by hand on my wife's brand new Nissan Juke.. The result was outstanding.. The car was swirl / mark free with a mirror effort on the black paint work... AG is good as I used it on my car but IMO P1 is the better... Harder work but the result is well worth it.. I can't imagine what the result of P1 will be using machine polisher ...!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## a_dragon_jai

hi, just got myself some srp and egp. may i ask if i was to apply the srp and egp with a machine, is it better to go for rotary or da? i am looking for rotary as they are more affordable and i will be able to move onto cutting compound when i have more experience with it, also which pads shall i go for and which method should i use to apply them? just looking to fill the swirls atm. My car is a toyota so got pretty soft paint i think, thanks for the advise.


----------



## Duke Wellington

Hercs74 said:


> I used P1 by hand on my wife's brand new Nissan Juke.. The result was outstanding.. The car was swirl / mark free with a mirror effort on the black paint work... AG is good as I used it on my car but IMO P1 is the better... Harder work but the result is well worth it.. I can't imagine what the result of P1 will be using machine polisher ...!!!!


I'm glad it has worked for you.

My first full car polish with a rotary polisher and P1 was on my mother's Nissan Micra. What impressed me was how fast it was and the quality of the finish.


----------



## -Raven-

mrlesa110 said:


> i didnt expect super resin polish to win the test just goes to show. Les


Just remember this was done in 2006. There's many new products on the market now. Someone should do another test with today's products! Even SRP has been updated! :thumb:


----------



## Duke Wellington

a_dragon_jai said:


> hi, just got myself some srp and egp. may i ask if i was to apply the srp and egp with a machine, is it better to go for rotary or da? i am looking for rotary as they are more affordable and i will be able to move onto cutting compound when i have more experience with it, also which pads shall i go for and which method should i use to apply them? just looking to fill the swirls atm. My car is a toyota so got pretty soft paint i think, thanks for the advise.


You can use a rotary for SRP, the EGP should be by hand. Being new to a machine, using SRP with a soft pads would be good to learn how to handle a rotary machine. I would recommend using the Valet Pro Soft Black Pad for you. I have used this pad with a rotary polisher and SRP with very good results.


----------



## Tomasz

So after seeing this thread I purchased some SRP to tackle the swirl marks on my Z4 m. After five applications on a quarter of one panel the difference was... none. Couldn't tell it had been touched at all. I think I need to save up for a DA


----------



## -Raven-

Tomasz said:


> So after seeing this thread I purchased some SRP to tackle the swirl marks on my Z4 m. After five applications on a quarter of one panel the difference was... none. Couldn't tell it had been touched at all. I think I need to save up for a DA


Yes, people expect too much, you are not alone.


----------



## sm81

Has anybody use Carpro Fixer by hand? How well it works comparing to others like P1 and Scholl17?


----------



## sm81

sm81 said:


> Has anybody use Carpro Fixer by hand? How well it works comparing to others like P1 and Scholl17?


Does anyone try it?


----------



## CEE DOG

Excellent thread and comparison photos! 

Hmmmmm, what a great idea! I'll have to try the Fixer by hand today. Loving it with Rotary and DA!


----------



## sm81

Please let me know how it goes.


----------



## Bazsm

I'm new to this stuff and have a car which although looked after does have swirls & some slightly deeper scratches. 

Also working to a budget so only polishing by hand, I don't seem to have seen anyone suggesting using AG HD wax to protect the SRP work instead of EGP which seems a better suggestion - am I missing something here?

As I say I'm new to this so sorry if I'm asking a dumb question,

many thanks.


----------



## ribvanrey

Tomasz said:


> So after seeing this thread I purchased some SRP to tackle the swirl marks on my Z4 m. After five applications on a quarter of one panel the difference was... none. Couldn't tell it had been touched at all. I think I need to save up for a DA


You applied baked bean amounts and worked it in. waited for it to haze and buffed to a shine. Then waited 24 hrs repeated. Another 24 hr later you....
I bet you didnt do this. Nor would I. After 24 hr if I could see no improvement I would be looking for advice on what to do.

It is a polish. It fills minor surface scratches with molicules of tiny particles of reflective polymers that sit and if allowed the time, harden in the scratched clear coat so as to reflect the light that lands on them thereby deflecting the eyesight from seeing a scratch.

More than this you need to use a compounding polish. G3 Farecla is easy to use, cheap and very good. More selective then try the Menz range. Easy route with G3 own dimple suponge. Two in a box. Black soft for SRP etc. plus a white rough one for correction. The dimples aid put0ting the correct amount on. OR go with the Original German Applicator from Lake County. Again rough and smooth but 6 x3. Good for Menz by hand.
On your BMW with its hard paint either of these will work well. I hand correct BMWs using it. (See my profile for pics). Both these products work with spritzing water. Work in straight flat strokes. As the scratch disappears or the compound dries spritz. It will work for ages. It cuts and gradually the minute beads of compound desolve into a shining polish. Start at SF2500 cut. No more. If it is not a BMW even FF3000. If going the easy way with G3 it is just the one version so less to worry over. I have used it on BMW and soft painted Japanese cars. To cut less just spritz (£2 garden plant spray is good).

Once you have this simple correction the AG SRP will work fine on BMW. That's what mine wears. With EGP over the top.
Good luck. Rib


----------



## ribvanrey

Bazsm said:


> I'm new to this stuff and have a car which although looked after does have swirls & some slightly deeper scratches.
> 
> Also working to a budget so only polishing by hand, I don't seem to have seen anyone suggesting using AG HD wax to protect the SRP work instead of EGP which seems a better suggestion - am I missing something here?
> 
> As I say I'm new to this so sorry if I'm asking a dumb question,
> many thanks.


There are NO dumb questions. The dumb thing is to not be brave enough to ask.

I only work by hand. Not because of budget but because I have no choice. Good MFs and few good sponges are all you need. It takes more time and a bit more effort. You get extra tea breaks.
I use just SRP and EPG during the summer and wax over both in the winter to protect against the extra weather and road salt spray etc. Usually Oct and April being my full exterior detox and detail. This year meant that wax stayed until June.
This No reason why you cannot put AG HD wax straight on top of SRP. Just as some use a different wax over it and some use an extra shine over the wax. All done to personal taste. The only bit you will miss is that my summer EGP takes lot less time and effort than the HD Wax takes. Both need Bird lime patrols daily. Neither stop stone chips. Now if AG were to make....
Sponge recommends above. Enjoy. Rib


----------



## ilgidi

Thanks for the excellent write up. I have a 4 year old BMW touring that every time I wash I find marks on. I also have light scratches on the roof as a result of incorrect clay application. Nothing major but the car has a very nice finish with the odd scratch here and there that really does my head in. I've tried countless products but always overlooked the SRP (which I have btw). I always do one hit maybe that's why I don't get the desired results. For me nothing changes. I'll take some pics this weekend and try a number of hits and will let you know how it goes.

Cheers for the write-up.


----------



## Nally

Bloody hell that's dedication


----------



## ilgidi

ribvanrey said:


> You applied baked bean amounts and worked it in. waited for it to haze and buffed to a shine. Then waited 24 hrs repeated. Another 24 hr later you....
> I bet you didnt do this. Nor would I. After 24 hr if I could see no improvement I would be looking for advice on what to do.
> 
> It is a polish. It fills minor surface scratches with molicules of tiny particles of reflective polymers that sit and if allowed the time, harden in the scratched clear coat so as to reflect the light that lands on them thereby deflecting the eyesight from seeing a scratch.
> 
> More than this you need to use a compounding polish. G3 Farecla is easy to use, cheap and very good. More selective then try the Menz range. Easy route with G3 own dimple suponge. Two in a box. Black soft for SRP etc. plus a white rough one for correction. The dimples aid put0ting the correct amount on. OR go with the Original German Applicator from Lake County. Again rough and smooth but 6 x3. Good for Menz by hand.
> On your BMW with its hard paint either of these will work well. I hand correct BMWs using it. (See my profile for pics). Both these products work with spritzing water. Work in straight flat strokes. As the scratch disappears or the compound dries spritz. It will work for ages. It cuts and gradually the minute beads of compound desolve into a shining polish. Start at SF2500 cut. No more. If it is not a BMW even FF3000. If going the easy way with G3 it is just the one version so less to worry over. I have used it on BMW and soft painted Japanese cars. To cut less just spritz (£2 garden plant spray is good).
> 
> Once you have this simple correction the AG SRP will work fine on BMW. That's what mine wears. With EGP over the top.
> Good luck. Rib


OK ... I'm in the same boat as you are. It's a beemer and every time I use SRP I see no difference. Reading on RIBVARNEY's comment on your thread..I reckon I should try with G3. I am a bit hesitant to use it as I think it cuts too much. Ho did it go for you?


----------



## crosscyl

So sounds like for BMW's seriously rock hard clear top coat, the way forward IF doing all of it by hand effort =

G3 -----> SRP -----> EGP

Seems like its G3 which is the magic product that I'm missing and must get. I think my actual polishing by hand technique may not be how it needs to be. I mean I'm new to all this so I firstly I need to actually learn exactly HOW to polish ! Any youtube links guys showing a best practice hand polishing demonstration ?

I'd like to know what's the BEST pad to use for each of the above ?

At present, I only have the tri-foam pad called FP1 from g-technique.


----------



## ilgidi

crosscyl said:


> So sounds like for BMW's seriously rock hard clear top coat, the way forward IF doing all of it by hand effort =
> 
> G3 -----> SRP -----> EGP
> 
> Seems like its G3 which is the magic product that I'm missing and must get. I think my actual polishing by hand technique may not be how it needs to be. I mean I'm new to all this so I firstly I need to actually learn exactly HOW to polish ! Any youtube links guys showing a best practice hand polishing demonstration ?
> 
> I'd like to know what's the BEST pad to use for each of the above ?
> 
> At present, I only have the tri-foam pad called FP1 from g-technique.


I would add some Carnauba wax to the equation. Mine is Le Mans Blue and found the Black Velvet from Dodo Juice excellent.


----------



## MonkeyP

crosscyl said:


> So sounds like for BMW's seriously rock hard clear top coat, the way forward IF doing all of it by hand effort =
> 
> G3 -----> SRP -----> EGP
> 
> Seems like its G3 which is the magic product that I'm missing and must get. I think my actual polishing by hand technique may not be how it needs to be. I mean I'm new to all this so I firstly I need to actually learn exactly HOW to polish ! Any youtube links guys showing a best practice hand polishing demonstration ?
> 
> I'd like to know what's the BEST pad to use for each of the above ?
> 
> At present, I only have the tri-foam pad called FP1 from g-technique.







Have a look at this. just IMHO a quick simple video.


----------



## crosscyl

MonkeyP said:


> Have a look at this. just IMHO a quick simple video.


Thanks for the video link and indeed its very useful in showing how to lay sealant and then wax a car. Before I get to that stage, I'll need to polish it first :lol:. Would like to learn when people say ''keep working the polish'', how that looks...something showing that would be nice.


----------



## ilgidi

MonkeyP said:


> Have a look at this. just IMHO a quick simple video.


What's a good sealant to use? I need to remove swirls first, seal and then caranauba wax. I don't think I've ever used sealant.

Cheers for the link.


----------



## crosscyl

Sealant sounds like a good idea. AG's cheap and cheerful EGP is a nice and simple sealant. I'm sure there will be plenty others on here who'll probably swear by some other sealants with fancy names and eye popping price tags. I think I'll stick to something like EGP for a newbie like me. So back to the equation and it looks like:

wash ---> clay ---> G3 ---> New SRP ---> EGP ---> HD Wax

Hmm that lot should keep me occupied for a good while .

Though there are some who say no need for BOTH sealant and a wax together....I'm sure I've heard that before. Anyway, this thread is about polishing and correcting the paint by hand.


----------



## MonkeyP

crosscyl said:


> Thanks for the video link and indeed its very useful in showing how to lay sealant and then wax a car. Before I get to that stage, I'll need to polish it first :lol:. Would like to learn when people say ''keep working the polish'', how that looks...something showing that would be nice.


Sorry sort of went of the topic. lol

heres another video





its not the best video but just have a look the pad he uses and how he uses it.

If I find a better one i'll put it up


----------



## crosscyl

That is a very famous video showing P1. Actually now that we are talking G3, I wonder how G3 compares with P1.


----------



## ribvanrey

Never tried cutting the scratches out of a car with P1. G3 Farecla's own words, "Engineered Diminishing Abrasives (EDa's) are minute elements, sharp enough to abrade the edges of light scratches and that continue to break down to form a smooth polishing fluid. This means that you cannot overwork the scratch removal or renovator products and the results are fantastic - glossy paintwork without the need for a polishing machine." It is designed for hand use. I cut a scratch and a scrape on a soft painted Toyota belonging to my beloved today. It certainly will not harm a BMW clearcoat. If you use a baked bean size, and a compounding sponge, your laughing. If you get too much on the sponge or the paint and it has dried, spritz it with a mist of water to reactivate. If there is still loads on the car and the scratch has gone, spray the G3 Scratch remover with water. It will turn into polish and shine the car.
BTW my profile has loads of pic of my BMW cut with G3 and wearing 2x SRP and 2x EGP coats. It gets waxed over for the winter. Rib


----------



## crosscyl

Hey Rib, I too have a E60 and I'm glad I've found someone in you who's used the combination I thinking of going for (G3, SRP, EGP). Could you please tell which pads do you personally use for each of those 3 products ? Also havee I read you post above correctly where you say you wax it over your G3, SRP, EGP routine before the start of winter....and finally is it HD Wax from autoglym that you use ? Cheers for your help...btw I've seen your posts on the Land too .


----------



## ribvanrey

crosscyl said:


> Hey Rib, I too have a E60 and I'm glad I've found someone in you who's used the combination I thinking of going for (G3, SRP, EGP). Could you please tell which pads do you personally use for each of those 3 products ? Also havee I read you post above correctly where you say you wax it over your G3, SRP, EGP routine before the start of winter....and finally is it HD Wax from autoglym that you use ? Cheers for your help...btw I've seen your posts on the Land too .


More correctly, I have used Menz and G3 Scratch remover at different times as G3 was only launched this spring.
I generally use Sonus version of Original German Applicator by Lake County. Have used theirs too. Just Sonus were cheaper last time I ordered. Both long lasting and all from Clean My Car (DW sponsored trader). I have one box of G3 Farecla pads. Black is lovely. So soft u could stroke your eyelids. White so coarse I could descale my foot. That one is excellent for G3 for the frightened. The hollows between the dimples are just the right size for a baked bean size blob of paste. Keep a cheap garden plant spray full of water to spritz if the paste dries on the car or sponge.
BTW the same applies with menz FF3000.

I apply SRP with cheap MF one panel at a time. It hazes quickly. Buff with an AG MF cloth. I apply EGP with a 4" cotton pad. Have tried all manner of sponge, foam, cloth as have used since first on the market. Kent cotton pad and handle just glides across the car with EGP. Allow to haze for 1 - 2 hrs then buff with AG cotton stockinette. Just shake well away from car well before use. 2nd coat of EGP after 24hrs as it needs to harden thoroughly.

Yes usually AG HD over top for winter but this year I bought a custom pot of Angelwax. The talk of DW. It is chocolate. I will be using this instead of HD. AG recommend a firm pad for applying. See AG website.

Yes I am the same person on the Land and Twitter. Seems silly making up a name when my own is rare :lol:

BTW fill in your Control Panel and u can join the BMW group in DW Social Clubs. You can add your own photo album and the rest. Rib


----------



## ribvanrey

crosscyl said:


> So sounds like for BMW's seriously rock hard clear top coat, the way forward IF doing all of it by hand effort =
> 
> G3 -----> SRP -----> EGP
> 
> Seems like its G3 which is the magic product that I'm missing and must get. I think my actual polishing by hand technique may not be how it needs to be. I mean I'm new to all this so I firstly I need to actually learn exactly HOW to polish ! Any youtube links guys showing a best practice hand polishing demonstration ?
> 
> I'd like to know what's the BEST pad to use for each of the above ?
> 
> At present, I only have the tri-foam pad called FP1 from g-technique.


G3 Farecla have a video for each of their products on Youtube. Cant bother to hunt all urls on my phone at 2am. Try their new webpage http://g3pro.com/index-mobile.php
You should note this is the new Black pack home user product range.
http://www.farecla.co.uk is the url for their trade products that have sold for decades. HTH. Rib


----------



## Junior Bear

Good thread to read indeed!

Ribvanrey have you used g6? Seems to do the same job but no water needed?


----------



## crosscyl

ribvanrey said:


> G3 Farecla have a video for each of their products on Youtube. Cant bother to hunt all urls on my phone at 2am. Try their new webpage http://g3pro.com/index-mobile.php
> You should note this is the new Black pack home user product range.
> http://www.farecla.co.uk is the url for their trade products that have sold for decades. HTH. Rib


Cheers Rib, you've been very helpful. I'm excited about giving the G3 a go as my sapphire black E60 is swirled all over. I don't want to go and buy a DA as I know I'll hardly ever use it. I think hard work by hand is all that's needed along with a product like G3. Thanks also for explaining which pads you use. I'll take a look at clean your car's website :thumb:.

Found a link for the Kent pads with a good price:

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/motori...shers/Kent-3-Polish-Pads-With-Handle-11377687


----------



## crosscyl

Oh just another question...how important is claying in all this ? I hear that generally needs to be done once or twice a year but then I recall some suggest maybe claying after the correction...true ?


----------



## ribvanrey

crosscyl said:


> Oh just another question...how important is claying in all this ? I hear that generally needs to be done once or twice a year but then I recall some suggest maybe claying after the correction...true ?


If you look at the Polish photo album on my Profile you will see why I never use a DA. I have used clay in some areas of my that looked and felt a bit rough after detoxing the car fully of all previous wax, polish etc. but again I cant reach to do the whole car.

The Kent handle is exatly what I use. White for EGP.

The videos for G3 are at http://g3pro.com/watch-videos.php Rib


----------



## ribvanrey

Junior Bear said:


> Good thread to read indeed!
> 
> Ribvanrey have you used g6? Seems to do the same job but no water needed?


Hi. I have only used Menz and G3. Water is not Needed with these. It can just aid getting that bit extra from them. Rib


----------



## ilgidi

crosscyl said:


> So sounds like for BMW's seriously rock hard clear top coat, the way forward IF doing all of it by hand effort =
> 
> G3 -----> SRP -----> EGP
> 
> Seems like its G3 which is the magic product that I'm missing and must get. I think my actual polishing by hand technique may not be how it needs to be. I mean I'm new to all this so I firstly I need to actually learn exactly HOW to polish ! Any youtube links guys showing a best practice hand polishing demonstration ?
> 
> I'd like to know what's the BEST pad to use for each of the above ?
> 
> At present, I only have the tri-foam pad called FP1 from g-technique.


Well, I had my go over the weekend using G3 - SRP - EGP but I am utterly disappointed. The G3 left marks and cannot remover them now. I used SRP about three times but I still have marks left over by the G3. Any suggestions?

Pics attached.


----------



## Junior Bear

You need a fine cut polish and then a finishing polish. G3 is a very aggressive compound. Srp won't be able to sort it


----------



## ilgidi

Junior Bear said:


> You need a fine cut polish and then a finishing polish. G3 is a very aggressive compound. Srp won't be able to sort it


What do you recommend? G6 perhaps or something from menzerma? I did this by hand so need something that can be worked by hand.


----------



## Junior Bear

Tbh I don't know what could successfully sort the g3 marks out by hand.

If I had to make a suggestion (which is purely what I've seen on here, not from experience) would be gtechniq p1


----------



## ilgidi

Junior Bear said:


> Tbh I don't know what could successfully sort the g3 marks out by hand.
> 
> If I had to make a suggestion (which is purely what I've seen on here, not from experience) would be gtechniq p1


Well according to a previous post in this thread, SRP tackles swirl marks so should be able to sort out the G3 marks no? They're similar to swirl marks only vertical.


----------



## Junior Bear

Srp is more a filler is it not?


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## ilgidi

Junior Bear said:


> Srp is more a filler is it not?


just ordered P1. Will see how it goes.


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## sprocketser

If you do 3-4 more SRP passes , you ll be just fine , how many times you put on some SRP


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## ilgidi

sprocketser said:


> If you do 3-4 more SRP passes , you ll be just fine , how many times you put on some SRP


About two or three I think!


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## sprocketser

I would go for 2-3 more passes


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## ribvanrey

ilgidi said:


> Well, I had my go over the weekend using G3 - SRP - EGP but I am utterly disappointed. The G3 left marks and cannot remover them now. I used SRP about three times but I still have marks left over by the G3. Any suggestions?


Which G3 product did you use? Presumably the G3 _Pro Scratch remover_, but paste or liquid?
Where did you use the G3? How much did you apply? What did you use to apply it? Did you use any water?

Did you contact Farecla about it? They post here frequently as DW Supporters. Rib


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## ilgidi

ribvanrey said:


> Which G3 product did you use? Presumably the G3 _Pro Scratch remover_, but paste or liquid?
> Where did you use the G3? How much did you apply? What did you use to apply it? Did you use any water?
> 
> Did you contact Farecla about it? They post here frequently as DW Supporters. Rib


I used G3 paste compound and applied it with a meguiars microfibre pad. Used small amounts on the pad and yes I used water to lubricate. The end result looked good but when I went back to my garage, I noticed the lines under the neon light.


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## crosscyl

ilgidi said:


> I used G3 paste compound and applied it with a meguiars microfibre pad. Used small amounts on the pad and yes I used water to lubricate. The end result looked good but when I went back to my garage, I noticed the lines under the neon light.


Thing is, the paste is to be used for isolated deepish scratches. From what I understand, you are wanting a general reduction in the swirls and to improve the appearance of your paint. For that task you needed the LIQUID version of the G3 scratch remover and not the paste. The other thing is, if I was using it for the first time, I'd be too worried about using any other kind of applicator other the exact one recommended by Farecla G3. I believe its the waffle pad from G3 which is what is advised with the G3 stuff. And finally, there is general agreement that the G3 Scratch Remover is a pretty strong compound especially is its paste form and needs to be used sensibly...the liquid one I guess is a tad less harsh especially when used correctly with water.

If the Liquid G3 Scratch Remover WHEN used using the correct procedure and applicator doesn't work well, you may consider trying the G3 (liquid) Paint Renovator which is less harsh and supposed to still tackle the swirls.

This is just my 2 cents as actually I haven't used any of the above G3 stuff. But its what I've understood from the posts so far .


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## crosscyl

BTW does anyone know what's the difference between good old fashioned T-Cut and something like the G3 stuff !?


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## ilgidi

crosscyl said:


> Thing is, the paste is to be used for isolated deepish scratches. From what I understand, you are wanting a general reduction in the swirls and to improve the appearance of your paint. For that task you needed the LIQUID version of the G3 scratch remover and not the paste. The other thing is, if I was using it for the first time, I'd be too worried about using any other kind of applicator other the exact one recommended by Farecla G3. I believe its the waffle pad from G3 which is what is advised with the G3 stuff. And finally, there is general agreement that the G3 Scratch Remover is a pretty strong compound especially is its paste form and needs to be used sensibly...the liquid one I guess is a tad less harsh especially when used correctly with water.
> 
> If the Liquid G3 Scratch Remover WHEN used using the correct procedure and applicator doesn't work well, you may consider trying the G3 (liquid) Paint Renovator which is less harsh and supposed to still tackle the swirls.
> 
> This is just my 2 cents as actually I haven't used any of the above G3 stuff. But its what I've understood from the posts so far .


I've read some good stuff about P1 here and got me a bottle. Wil ltackle it with that. Worst case I take it to a body shop and get it done with a DA polisher.

Cheers


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## ilgidi

crosscyl said:


> Thing is, the paste is to be used for isolated deepish scratches. From what I understand, you are wanting a general reduction in the swirls and to improve the appearance of your paint. For that task you needed the LIQUID version of the G3 scratch remover and not the paste. The other thing is, if I was using it for the first time, I'd be too worried about using any other kind of applicator other the exact one recommended by Farecla G3. I believe its the waffle pad from G3 which is what is advised with the G3 stuff. And finally, there is general agreement that the G3 Scratch Remover is a pretty strong compound especially is its paste form and needs to be used sensibly...the liquid one I guess is a tad less harsh especially when used correctly with water.
> 
> If the Liquid G3 Scratch Remover WHEN used using the correct procedure and applicator doesn't work well, you may consider trying the G3 (liquid) Paint Renovator which is less harsh and supposed to still tackle the swirls.
> 
> This is just my 2 cents as actually I haven't used any of the above G3 stuff. But its what I've understood from the posts so far .


After trying to remove the swirls and ending up leaving small scratches with G3 compound, I rectified the problem using a hit of P1, SRP, and EGP. The results are satisfactory. Thumbs up for P1, SRP and EGP. All I need now is a shot of Carnauba. I have Dodo Juice Black velvet which I found to be excellent.

Before:








After:


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## Junior Bear

What does it look like under the garage lights though


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## ilgidi

Junior Bear said:


> What does it look like under the garage lights though


I'll take a pic this evening. Although in the first pic, the lines to the right of the neon are the reflections of the bricks in the wall as well as the G3 marks. the scratch marks are to the left of the neon. It looks good in the garage...just need the pic.


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## Farécla Trade

Hi Ilgidi

We are keen to help you resolve this problem. Can you let us know if you used the trade G3 paste compound or the retail G3 Scratch Remover? Thanks.


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## ilgidi

Junior Bear said:


> What does it look like under the garage lights though


This is what it looks like under the garage lights. As I said before, the lines on the right hand side is the actual reflection of the brick wall as it's not properly plastered.


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## ilgidi

Farecla G3 said:


> Hi Ilgidi
> 
> We are keen to help you resolve this problem. Can you let us know if you used the trade G3 paste compound or the retail G3 Scratch Remover? Thanks.


I used the trade G3 paste compound. However, I used some other products as suggested by some people here and managed to resolve the problem.


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## crosscyl

ribvanrey said:


> 2nd coat of EGP after 24hrs as it needs to harden thoroughly.
> the rest. Rib


Did SRP followed by EGP yesterday finishing around 7pm. I'm thinking of adding another layer of EGP. Haven't used the car after finishing the EGP. Question is - Do i need to do anything to the surface (wash or wipe etc) before going ahead with the 2nd coat of egp?


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## Demetrios72

crosscyl said:


> Did SRP followed by EGP yesterday finishing around 7pm. I'm thinking of adding another layer of EGP. Haven't used the car after finishing the EGP. Question is - Do i need to do anything to the surface (wash or wipe etc) before going ahead with the 2nd coat of egp?


Maybe go over with some QD then add your EGP


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## tombarber92

This has revived my trust in SRP and hand polishing, being a student buying a machine polisher is a hard decision to make, I'll stick with the hand polishing for the moment! Great post, keep posting these and you will have arms like arnie!


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## -Raven-

Holy old thread Batman! 

Even SRP has been updated since this was posted!


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## READER84

Interesting thread, is P1 any good for swirl removal by hand? I read G3 is good but if not used perfectly it will leave damage? 


READER84


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## paul mersea

Thanks Dave KG been just started using Megs NXT really good results but your right it has only light filling properties many thanks great pics and great post.


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## waterbutler71

Much thanks to you Dave from Chris in los angeles,California...your hard work was not in vain.


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## Ongoing

Great review thanks for doing the hard work


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## s29nta

That's top quality stuff from you fella! Good work :thumb:


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## VW Golf-Fan

To the OP, would it be possible for you to repost the pictures of your experiment please so I can see what SRP is capable of after multiple applications?

Ta


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## Fiesta2012

yes i second the above comment


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## richo

VW Golf-Fan said:


> To the OP, would it be possible for you to repost the pictures of your experiment please so I can see what SRP is capable of after multiple applications?
> 
> Ta


Agreed, is this possible?


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## Tom B.

Anyone tried the 3M Scratch Remover by hand?


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