# Clarks Technique,



## baseballlover1 (Sep 25, 2007)

Hey guys, well i am starting to do more and more engine details and i was wondering what everyones techniques were on engine bay detailing. 

first off i love Clarks way of engine detailing (using pressure washer a lot).But im wondering if this is safe especially on higher end cars that are hand assembled and the fittings might not be tight? Also the idea of pressure soaking the engine with water kindof makes me nervous. 

Also, what do you cover up and does it take a lot of time and thought. I know a fair bit about engines however i am very spotty with my knowledge of engines and am worried about if i forget to cover something up.... 

,Dan


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## spitfire (Feb 10, 2007)

Try to keep water away from important electrical components. If you think about it, these things sit outside year in year out without harm and a little moisture can be coped with. Think of going down the motorway with heavy spray, some of that undoubtedly ends up in the engine bay. I normally warm up the engine before final rinse so that water evaporates quickly. A running engine will cope much better with a little bit of water than a cold damp one. I've never had a problem.:thumb:

As the posts below have said, if it's a customers car. Make sure you have good insurance cover


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Personally, unless your insurance covers you for any damage inflicted cleaning the engine I wouldnt touch it. I think there are too many potential liability risks....


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## ianFRST (Sep 19, 2006)

as above.

if its your own, fair enough, but if your doing other peoples, just imagine if you got water in somewhere it shouldnt, what you gona do? customer wont be too happy either :lol:

ive found a good spray of apc over the engine, brushed in, and then rinsed with pressure washer on half setting does a good job, i avoid tring to spray fuse boxes, alternator, and coil packs for more than a second or so. all with the engine running btw


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## Shug (Jul 13, 2007)

I've managed to clean it up quite well with a damp cloth with degreaser, then water and just wipe away. 
Cambelt snapped not long after but I'm sure thats just a coincidence! :lol:


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## baseballlover1 (Sep 25, 2007)

I do have insurance. 

And man that cam belt sucks! Ile work out my techniques on one of my cars and then ile move up to a clients. 

So ile spray some megs degreaser in there then agitate with brush, then start the car then pressure wash from a slight distance? is that good? Or do i start the car and leave it running all throughout?

,Dan


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

I think high pressure has more risks as it is more likely to force water into places its not meant to be.

I prefer bagging up anything that looks electrical or has contacts around it, which isnt much on modern cars but is everywhere on the older classics I look after, covering any vents etc, and using a degreaser agitated with a brush or cloth in small sections and then rinsed with a very slow and low pressure hose. I'm always careful about metal finishes though to ensure nothing gets on them that might mark the surface. I have been told some degreasers can mark aluminium finishes for example...


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## spitfire (Feb 10, 2007)

baseballlover1 said:


> I do have insurance.
> 
> And man that cam belt sucks! Ile work out my techniques on one of my cars and then ile move up to a clients.
> 
> ...


Yeh, spray from a few feet or so or use a watering can instead. Warm the engine for a couple of minutes before rinsing. Just don't direct high pressure at sensitive electrics or air intakes.


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## Rich @ PB (Oct 26, 2005)

Our technique is perfectly safe on most modern engines, provided you take the usual standard precautions. Cover any intakes if they aren't designed to accept water (note that many are, and have drainage traps/holes built in), and any electricals that don't appear to be well insulated/covered. Also, we always look at the design of the engine, and avoid wetting any areas where ponding will occur, especially around coil packs and the like (this is why we never wet wash 911 engines, for example). With regard to pressure, always turn your washer down to it's lowest pressure setting, and work from a safe sensible distance - by doing this, you are actually wetting the engine a lot less than you would with an open ended hose. Finally, if you are working on cars other than your own, make sure you are insured for the type of work you do on them. Do you really think we would wet wash supercar engines if we weren't fully insured?!


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

WX51 TXR said:


> Our technique is perfectly safe on most modern engines, provided you take the usual standard precautions. Cover any intakes if they aren't designed to accept water (note that many are, and have drainage traps/holes built in), and any electricals that don't appear to be well insulated/covered. Also, we always look at the design of the engine, and avoid wetting any areas where ponding will occur, especially around coil packs and the like (this is why we never wet wash 911 engines, for example). With regard to pressure, always turn your washer down to it's lowest pressure setting, and work from a safe sensible distance - by doing this, you are actually wetting the engine a lot less than you would with an open ended hose. Finally, if you are working on cars other than your own, make sure you are insured for the type of work you do on them. *Do you really think we would wet wash supercar engines if we weren't fully insured?! *


Only if you want to commit business suicide.

Wise words there Rich :thumb:


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## spitfire (Feb 10, 2007)

WX51 TXR said:


> Our technique is perfectly safe on most modern engines, provided you take the usual standard precautions. Cover any intakes if they aren't designed to accept water (note that many are, and have drainage traps/holes built in), and any electricals that don't appear to be well insulated/covered. Also, we always look at the design of the engine, and avoid wetting any areas where ponding will occur, especially around coil packs and the like (this is why we never wet wash 911 engines, for example). With regard to pressure, always turn your washer down to it's lowest pressure setting, and work from a safe sensible distance - by doing this, you are actually wetting the engine a lot less than you would with an open ended hose. Finally, if you are working on cars other than your own, make sure you are insured for the type of work you do on them. Do you really think we would wet wash supercar engines if we weren't fully insured?!


All common sense really:thumb:


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## baseballlover1 (Sep 25, 2007)

WX51 TXR said:


> Our technique is perfectly safe on most modern engines, provided you take the usual standard precautions. Cover any intakes if they aren't designed to accept water (note that many are, and have drainage traps/holes built in), and any electricals that don't appear to be well insulated/covered. Also, we always look at the design of the engine, and avoid wetting any areas where ponding will occur, especially around coil packs and the like (this is why we never wet wash 911 engines, for example). With regard to pressure, always turn your washer down to it's lowest pressure setting, and work from a safe sensible distance - by doing this, you are actually wetting the engine a lot less than you would with an open ended hose. Finally, if you are working on cars other than your own, make sure you are insured for the type of work you do on them. Do you really think we would wet wash supercar engines if we weren't fully insured?!


Yea i sent clark a PM asking some questions about it, however he is a busy man and proly missed it. I wanted to know what your dry engine detailing techniques were.

I have a 77 911, would you not recommend me to not wet wash it? It very grimy and greasy due to over 30 years of running...

And I am also insured to up to $200K regardless of where i work and what i am doing... even delivering cars to houses


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

I have 2 PM's left to reply to and then yours will be next mate - I promise!

I've been on and off the net all night in between watching the football (or soccer ) 

Rich pretty much hit the nail on the head though :thumb:


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

baseballlover1 said:


> Yea i sent clark a PM asking some questions about it, however he is a busy man and proly missed it. I wanted to know what your dry engine detailing techniques were.
> 
> I have a 77 911, would you not recommend me to not wet wash it? It very grimy and greasy due to over 30 years of running...
> 
> And I am also insured to up to $200K regardless of where i work and what i am doing... even delivering cars to houses


I wouldnt reccommend wet washing your engine, if it were me I certainly wouldnt and that's despite us being insured (similair to yourself - £150k worth of car). As rich mentioned, we dont wet wash 911 engines as water can sometimes get into the coilpacks and cause problems. I'm afraid it's plenty of patience and a good degreaser/APC andl loads of brushes/mf's


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## baseballlover1 (Sep 25, 2007)

okey dokey! Thanks clark and everyone! I am glad i asked! will get to work on the engine sometime soon. 

I also have to work on my dads VW 1981 rabbit pickup that is almost brand new. It has 50,000 miles on it! but we forgot to replace the belts last year when we bought it and it screwed the diesel engine. so we just bought another. i have to detail this one now. Ive put over 5 hours into polishing and im only done with the hood/front left fender (or wing as i believe you guys call it?) and the drivers door!

,Dam


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## g3rey (May 3, 2008)

baseballlover1 said:


> okey dokey! Thanks clark and everyone! I am glad i asked! will get to work on the engine sometime soon.
> 
> ,Dam


Don't forget the before and after pictures. I for one will be very interested to see the progress on the 911's engine.


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## baseballlover1 (Sep 25, 2007)

So clark, if you were working on a 77 911 and it was pretty grimy what would your procedure be? 

Spray with like megs super degreaser let sit for a few seconds then agitate with brush then wipe off?


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## Rich @ PB (Oct 26, 2005)

Yep, that's pretty much it; work small areas at a time, spray on a degreaser (I favour P21S Total Auto Wash for working by hand), then start agitating with a selection of brushes, then wipe up the dirty, foamy residue. Repeat if needs be, keep going until it's all done, then apply 303 Aerospace Protectant and wipe down carefully. Job done... unless you want to punish yourself with any metal polishing.


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## baseballlover1 (Sep 25, 2007)

WX51 TXR said:


> Yep, that's pretty much it; work small areas at a time, spray on a degreaser (I favour P21S Total Auto Wash for working by hand), then start agitating with a selection of brushes, then wipe up the dirty, foamy residue. Repeat if needs be, keep going until it's all done, then apply 303 Aerospace Protectant and wipe down carefully. Job done... unless you want to punish yourself with any metal polishing.


awesome! Will def try that out!

another question since i have you guys here and you are the KINGS of de-tarring wheels and paintwork haha. is P21S TAW good for removing Tar?

,Dan


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