# Ride on Mower issue!



## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

Appears the ride on mower has another problem.

Its a Countax C38H

The issue Im having is that the blades don't switch on using the toggle switch at all. However, the dashboard light flashes to say that they are on. 

The belt connecting the clutch to the blade pulley doesn't turn either which is making me think the clutch has probably gone? 

I should mention that the battery is also knackered, Ive been jump starting it recently but unsure if this would be related to the lack of drive to the blades? The last time I cut the grass, which was yesterday - the blades did engage eventually but the lawnmower ran very rough as a result. Once the blades were turned off, they wouldnt turn back on and it ran perfectly. All very odd

Any help much appreciated.


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

I don't know but you may have a solenoid clutch, electric blade drive. When you switch it on the light shows the clutch has power and will try to engage but does not actually know if the friction material is worn out and whether the blades are spinning. Rather like a car clutch it can work sometimes and slip at others when worn.
I would urge you to be very careful it is all too easy to make a catastrophic, to you, mistake.
There are lots of bearings and the tensioners which could have seized along with the drive which I would think is by PTO or gearbox direct and Honda failures here are not uncommon.
For the sake of safety I would let a specialist take a look. It will be something they have seen before, they have the equipment, lift etc and they will know the pitfalls.
There can be a lot of stored energy in a drive system and if something turns or starts at the wrong time...….
The battery may or may not have something to do with it but if it has failed then the alternator will be working extra hard to charge something that doesn't. That will just shorten the life of the alternator or alternator/starter if that is what is fitted.


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## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

Sh1ner said:


> I don't know but you may have a solenoid clutch, electric blade drive. When you switch it on the light shows the clutch has power and will try to engage but does not actually know if the friction material is worn out and whether the blades are spinning. Rather like a car clutch it can work sometimes and slip at others when worn.
> I would urge you to be very careful it is all too easy to make a catastrophic, to you, mistake.
> There are lots of bearings and the tensioners which could have seized along with the drive which I would think is by PTO or gearbox direct and Honda failures here are not uncommon.
> For the sake of safety I would let a specialist take a look. It will be something they have seen before, they have the equipment, lift etc and they will know the pitfalls.
> ...


After some research, turns out there's an electric clutch on this machine. So either the clutch is burnt out or the wire is bad.

Now the clutch is near enough £200, and the clutch wire is £7. Will probably have to see if I can remove the wire, give it a clean and then try again.


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Rayaan said:


> After some research, turns out there's an electric clutch on this machine. So either the clutch is burnt out or the wire is bad.
> 
> Now the clutch is near enough £200, and the clutch wire is £7. Will probably have to see if I can remove the wire, give it a clean and then try again.


There will be three main parts to the clutch the solenoid, the electronic part that draws the two halves together and the friction part that allows smooth engagement/disengagement. They are timed and tolerance to work together either part can fail but by their nature start working again to turn the blades at any time.
There will also be the bearing assembly that it all spins on and this can become very worn or seize solid. I have changed quite a few but the bearing may or may not be replaceable depending on model.


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## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

Sh1ner said:


> There will be three main parts to the clutch the solenoid, the electronic part that draws the two halves together and the friction part that allows smooth engagement/disengagement. They are timed and tolerance to work together either part can fail but by their nature start working again to turn the blades at any time.
> There will also be the bearing assembly that it all spins on and this can become very worn or seize solid. I have changed quite a few but the bearing may or may not be replaceable depending on model.


Turns out its not the clutch - I had a repairer look at the machine

He said its control panel which is playing up. The part is about £90. I also said to take a look at what else is wrong with it so a few batteries, belts and an oil leak - Total cost around £300-400

So, Ive decided, rather than spending it on this 20 year old machine - Ive gone and bought a new Mountfield from this chap and he's giving me £400 for my machine in PX.


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