# Can this be corrected ?



## Trouty65 (Nov 16, 2011)

Hi all,

I am fairly new here and have recently bought an Mk1 Mx5. She is 22 years old and i have just started my first few attempts at detailing her.
I have just purchased a snow foam lance from Autobrite and used it today for the 1st time and was very pleased with the results. 
I have bought a meguiars clay kit but have not yet used it. After todays wash and polish using snow foam and AG SRP i really noticed how bad some of the paint is and really need some advice.
The laquer appears to be peeling in a few places mainly the bonnet and a small area on the drivers door.



















As this is an ongoing long term project for me i would really like to try and correct this myself but as i am a newbie i really don't know how far i can go with this ?
I don't have a DA yet but it is on my list of future purchases.

Can anyone advise me if this is at all possible or would this have to be resprayed professionally ?

Car looks great for her age but i am sure there's lots more to come.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Paul


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

I'm no expert, but I would have thought it will need a bodyshop to spray on some lacquer.


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## GSiFan (Jan 6, 2011)

I thought lacquer had to be applied to still-tacky basecoat or you'd end up with adhesion issues. Or am I mistaken?

Paul


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## P.A.D (Jun 26, 2008)

Afraid that's the lacquer lifted so if you're not comfortable with spraying then a body shop job.


Sorry to be the bearer of bad news dude.







Russell


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## jubileebug (Jan 25, 2008)

Deffo needs to go to the paintshop. Maybe they can salvage the basecoat and re-clear it?


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## jetbox (Jul 12, 2009)

Hi,

I had a similar area on the corner of the roof on my previous car ( approx a 2 inch square area). I carefully removed the loose lacquer at th edges, rubbed down with 1200 grade and then built up a layer of lacquer with a touch up pen over a few days. After a couple of weeks I block wet sanded the area and then polished with my da. The problem area was as good as gone... I knew it was there but unless you was really looking for it, it could not been seen.

Give it a go, what have you got to loose... If not then it needs a respray as suggested...


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## Stomper (Jun 8, 2011)

jetbox said:


> Hi,
> 
> I had a similar area on the corner of the roof on my previous car ( approx a 2 inch square area). I carefully removed the loose lacquer at th edges, rubbed down with 1200 grade and then built up a layer of lacquer with a touch up pen over a few days. After a couple of weeks I block wet sanded the area and then polished with my da. The problem area was as good as gone... I knew it was there but unless you was really looking for it, it could not been seen.
> 
> Give it a go, what have you got to loose... If not then it needs a respray as suggested...


Good advice , the damage is done now . You have nothing to lose and pounds to save :thumb:


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## Trouty65 (Nov 16, 2011)

Yep ! it's got to be worth a go. The last time i attempted this was about 30 years ago on a white Vauxhall viva and was quite pleased with the results back then but things have changed a fair bit since then eh ! :-D

can anyone break down the best method/plan of attack for this please ?

What grade wet and dry should i start with and finish with ?

i have a paint company not far from me

http://www.metalflake.co.uk/

Would this be a good place to supply the paint and laquer ?

and lastly if all goes well will i be able to get a good finish polishing wise without a DA polisher ?

Thanks again

Paul


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

You'll need to flat the flaking edges with p1200, until there feathered back and no edges are left, this could go quite far before it will feather in. 

If your planning on painting the whole door, once your happy you flatted it enough, the rest of the door you can just use a grey scotchbrite, remember the prepped panel will need to have a Matt finish when it's been flatted, any shiney areas that are left the new paint will not stick and will in time leave you in the situation your in now, so it's worth taking your time with the prep.

Remember it's the prep work that makes the paint job, get that right and the paint will look right.

Painting.
The red basecoat your goin to apply may not cover very well, some red base colours solvent/waterbase are notorious for this, so you will need to apply the correct colour primer. When your ready for painting the first coat of colour, should be a light coat, leave ten mins to dry, then apply a further two coats which will need to be a nice even wet coats leaving ten-fifteen mins between them should now be covered, the last coat you can just use a light coat take a little bit further to blend colour in. 

Laquer.
Most will be mixed 2:1 ten percent thinners, first just apply a light covering coat, known as a gripper coat, same again leave ten mins, second coat apply a nice even coat, leave for fifteen mins, apply another nice even coat, should now be done.

Polishing.
Leave it for as long as possible, then flat it with p1500,p2000, then finish it off with p3000,p4000, then you can polish it up with your choice of compounds.

Hope this has helped mate.


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## Trouty65 (Nov 16, 2011)

Thanks Andy i have attempted to take the edges back with 1200 and the flaking had just got worse and worse.

Since i snow foamed the car a couple of weeks ago the whole lacquer bubbling/lifting process has accelerated dramatically on the bonnet. It now looks like there are finger prints appearing all over the bonnet where the lacquer is starting to lift ? Don't know if tis has had something to do with the car being stored for 4.5 years then being exposed to the weather again or if it is just simply a bad spray job ? I suspect the later.

The paint under the laquer doesn't look particularly good either.

So my next question is if i were to follow your advice above could i take it right back and complete a job like this by rattle can ? as i don't have a compressor or proper painting equipment ?

it really does look a mess and is just getting worse. I guess now i just have to add up the cost of attempting the job myself vs getting it done professionally.

Whats your thought ?

thanks

paul


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## ajpepe72 (Dec 25, 2011)

When laqering over basecoat paint, you need to apply the clearcoat pretty much as soon as the basecoat has flashed off and touch dry, otherwise it can cause problems and peel away from the basecoat later on.
i'd be flatting the effected areas down, and 800 grit the whole panel or scuff up with a scotch pad,then blend new basecoat into your repair, and then reclear the whole panel.


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