# Leather Repair - HOW?



## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Ok, to me, Leather Repair seems more of a "Black Art" than using a rotary.

I had a Bentley Turbo R to detail a few months ago, and although I managed to get the leather better than it was, I was never 100% happy with it! Also, the bolsters on the seats of the Cupra have "crack" and "creases" in them...

Anyway, I've seen plenty of details/restorations on here involving leather, and in some cases, I think the leather has been replaced, but viewed this thread
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=195387

These 2 images stand out to me



















First thing I noticed, is that it appears as the leather has been spray painted judging by the colour of the surrounding cardboard on the floor. I assume that this requires a special leather spray paint (something that will flex).... Then I notice ALL the cracks have gone. How has this been achieved?

There's plenty of guides and info available for claying, polishing via DA, polishing via Rotary etc, but nothing easily available for leather restoration....

So, does anyone have any hints & tips, or a link to a comprehensive guide?

TIA,

Mat

:thumb:


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Is this like the Bentley they did on wheeler dealers where they used flexible paint to re-coat the leather after it had been thoroughly cleaned?


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

No, he mentioned in his replies he used a filler..... There's also a thread in the Showroom restoring a BMW Steering Wheel and filler was used on that, and sanded, and sprayed etc....

Does the same process apply to seats as it does to say a gear knob or steering wheel? The latter 2 are sturdy pieces of "equipment" whereas, say seats and door cards aren't as "stiff and sturdy" and will flex, compress etc as you work away at them


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Bet the filler is expensive as it'd need to flex and/or stay suple enough to cope with the movement across the seats.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

No doubt.... 

I would like to see a thorough guide etc.... Just looking on YouTube... Some of the videos are recorded in poor quality, or shot from a distance... One I did see had light marks on a bolster, not what I'd call "extensive" damage.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

This is the best video yet






Might practise on the Drivers Seat of the Cupra.... Currently driving with a 1.6 Sport Seat in at the moment as the drivers seat collapsed... So I might have a go at restoring the leather, before removing the cover and fitting it onto the 1.6 Seat


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Pigmentation *(Colour) *Application*

Leather World Technologies - is a pigment restoration system used for re-colouring large areas or changing the colour of your leather completely, the colours are specific products for the restoration of faded Aniline and aniline style leathers. It is designed to soak into the leather leaving no residues on the surface. The products are used during the tanning process to give leather its initial colour; it is an excellent product for car interiors and leather furniture.

But like all detailing task's the correct preparation before applying the product will ensure that it works correctly, and has both durability and aesthetics. It is important to use a d-limonene citrus-based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) This will dissolve and emulsify any detergents, waxes, oils, silicones dirt or oils etc prior to application, use a medium soft upholstery brush to ensure any ingrained soiling is effectively removed prior to application and to ensure proper adhesion

_Leather Repair Compound _(DT-152 Leather Magic) this is a water base material which is air dried requiring no heat to cure. When cured, this material remains totally flexible and natural feeling just like the original leather. It is a thick, paste compound which may be easily worked into crevices and cracks in order to bond the separated leather together permanently and fill crevices completely flush with the surrounding surface areas.

_Pigmentation_ (colour) - the easiest way to apply pigmentation (colour) is with an airbrush, this is the method used by original equipment manufacturer (OEM). As an alternative use a clean white cotton terry cloth, along with a small painting brush for small and difficult to reach areas. Goes without saying, use latex gloves or your hands will end up being dyed too. 
Apply to one seating area at a time and keep changing to a clean area of the towel, or a fresh towel and thinner, until it doesn't cake.

To remove the old pigmentation lightly sand areas to be re-coloured (Scotchbrite 7447 - Maroon pad, General Purpose Hand - 320-400 grit) be consistent in how far you remove the pigmentation. Some of the colour will remain on the surface of the leather, as it originally absorbed the old pigmentation; all you need to do is remove the pigmentation layer that is sitting on the leather surface. Remove dust with a tack rag or damp micro fibre towel, wipe surface with a safe solvent Soygreen 6000 paint and adhesive stripper, a safety solvent made from soy esters. Allow to dry for 4-6 hours.

Using a small amount of the pigmentation blot it onto the cloth so it's not obviously wet looking, apply to one section at a time, and keep changing to a clean area of the towel, or a fresh towel and thinner, until it doesn't cake. Apply colour to the leather with a circular motion (do not use 'back and forth' motions as the pigmentation will streak) work the dye into the leather, including all the seams and piping. Thin coats (i.e. a colour 'wash') are better than heavier applications and will produce a more natural, translucent finish

Before colour dries use a 4-inch foam paint roller to even out and ensure good adhesion. Allow to dry and apply a second coat as above and allow to dry. If more colour is required apply thin coats with an air brush or with an air gun on fine setting. When the colour is correct allow to dry for 6 hours or preferably overnight

Apply Leather Master Soft Touch (formally Vital) this is not a conditioner per se but will help to soften and restore the patina. Finally apply a surface a protection product Leather Masters Protection Cream with a dry micro fibre towel and allow to dry. This provides a Scotchgard™ type protection specifically formulated for leather


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Cheers for that fella...

Now who do I buy the parts from? Are LTT on here? Also, doesn't Planet Polish specialise in leather products


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## Racer (Oct 27, 2005)

Well regarding your question , this leather was prepared, filled and painted.

No leather was replaced , that´s the main gold , to keep the original leather intact.

If you want i can tell more.

Take a look here

http://www.cardetail.pt/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54&Itemid=16

This products lasts and endures very long time , as the original leather.


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## judyb (Sep 7, 2007)

I would not use filler of any sort on a restoration like this it is totally unnecessary and makes the pigment/finish more vulnerable to failure. If you use a product like BRIT the pigment will take care of any minor cracks and creases without the need for fillers. There is also no need to remove all the old finish from the leather - as long as all the prep steps are followed to the letter.

There is a PDF on our trade site which takes you through all the steps for pigment restoration. The link is here 
The system is used for aircraft seat restoration all over the world as well as for car interiors and furniture restoration including changing the colour.

Hope this helps
Judyb


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

What would you suggest for this Judy?

This picture is about 18months old....










I dare say it's a little worse now, and the upper bolsters are a lot worse

(just looking for better pictures)

I currently have Zymol Leather Cleaner and Leather Conditioner (although running very low) and can borrow some other stuff from S3-DAVE (I believe he has Raceglaze leather cleaner/conditioner)....


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## Racer (Oct 27, 2005)

judyb said:


> I would not use filler of any sort on a restoration like this it is totally unnecessary and makes the pigment/finish more vulnerable to failure. If you use a product like BRIT the pigment will take care of any minor cracks and creases without the need for fillers. There is also no need to remove all the old finish from the leather - as long as all the prep steps are followed to the letter.
> 
> There is a PDF on our trade site which takes you through all the steps for pigment restoration. The link is here
> The system is used for aircraft seat restoration all over the world as well as for car interiors and furniture restoration including changing the colour.
> ...


None of the pigment was lost , and leather filler was used only for the severe cracks and of course it´s a leather restoration following a procedure of a brand.
With specific products to clean it , prepare it , repair it and dye it.

Another thing , the old finish was not removed as it will remove the grain unnecessarily . :thumb:


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Found more pictures from April 2010



















Passenger seat - not too bad in comparrison










Back to the drivers



















Original thread:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=163429


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## AcN (Nov 3, 2010)

Wow racer, what's that crazy color scanner you have here ?


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## big ben (Aug 25, 2009)

looks just like me leather, really need to sort it


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## The_Bouncer (Nov 24, 2010)

MAt - same pics did the same for me too - outstanding - i did a quick check and came up with this - hope it's useful :O)

http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Restoration.htm

&

http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Colourant_Kit.htm


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

cheers fella... £35 for a whole kit!!! Bargin...

The bolsters do appear to have a few deeper crack which you can make out in some of the pictures


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## kh904 (Dec 18, 2006)

All due respect to Judy, but IMO a filler is necessary for deep creases & cracks. 
Sure, over time you will put in new creases, but why go through the process of recolouring and refinishing the leather when the creases will spoil the finish?

I've done a DIY leather refurb myself, and you can achieve some very good results if you take your time and prep well!


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## pete5570 (Jun 11, 2010)

kh904 said:


> All due respect to Judy, but IMO a filler is necessary for deep creases & cracks.
> Sure, over time you will put in new creases, but why go through the process of recolouring and refinishing the leather when the creases will spoil the finish?
> 
> I've done a DIY leather refurb myself, and you can achieve some very good results if you take your time and prep well!


I did a DIY on my Jag drivers seat, it was worn through. I used a kit and it did a great job.


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## The Cueball (Feb 8, 2007)

I have this kit from the furniture clinic waiting to be used on the Jeep

http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Colourant_Kit.htm

I looked at loads of sites and read up about the process, and this seemed the best one IMO..

Looking forward to getting stuck in!

:thumb:


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## kh904 (Dec 18, 2006)

The Cueball said:


> I have this kit from the furniture clinic waiting to be used on the Jeep
> 
> http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Colourant_Kit.htm
> 
> ...


Yep that's the one that I used.

I would recommend that if you get the filler, get it in the colour of the leather (it's white as standard). It costs a little extra but you won't have to apply as many layers of dye to re-colour the filler.


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## The Cueball (Feb 8, 2007)

kh904 said:


> Yep that's the one that I used.
> 
> I would recommend that if you get the filler, get it in the colour of the leather (it's white as standard). It costs a little extra but you won't have to apply as many layers of dye to re-colour the filler.


Yeah, I already have the filler... not sure if it's white or not, I left it up to them... not even opened the box yet!! :lol:

Hopefully going to get to play about with it soon...along with the service and wheel refurb and full wet vac interior and detail... phew!

Having too much fun in the snow at the moment to do all that though....

:driver::driver::driver:

:thumb:


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## judyb (Sep 7, 2007)

We have found that using fillers on high wear areas is always risky. Generally speaking fillers shrink when they dry fully and so re cracking and finish failure is more likely when a filler has been used. We have found that the fillers do not flood a crack like a pigment does so does not reach the bottom of the crack as successfully as a pigment. Using only pigments (applied by a roller method) will fill the crack far more successfully and with more flexibility than a filler (always the right colour too). A primer can be used for additioinal adhesion which can be used on its own or added to the pigment. We would not use fillers on creases as the pigment has not necessarily been damaged and there is nothing to fill - a restoration pigment will adequately fill creases whilst keeping the flexibility necessary on that area. 

We used to use filler up to about 6 years ago as the pigment brands on the market were not what the modern ones are. Since we have used the BRIT system we have not found it necessary at all - the job is made much quicker and easier and the adhesion has been much greater.

Simply our findings after lots of research.

Hope this helps


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## Racer (Oct 27, 2005)

juddzey455 said:


> Also the two seat bases pictured are not the same......one pas, one drivers! and the colour is totally wrong


The two seats *ARE THE SAME* but the time of the pics weren´t the same because i had to remove them from the card and work with them outside that area.

Before even doing any leather restore on the seats i cleaned them just like in a normal detail , then the full procedure is used.
The colour was matched by some samples hidden of the seats ( front , rear ones ) that weren´t discolored from the tear of years , it´s a 1974 car with original leather.
If i painted with the actual faded colour of the seats would be a great mistake , and the owner and i choose the original color.

Before making wrong remarks about something you just don´t know about it , please ASK FIRST!!!!

The colour of the leather is matched first with a scanner and almost 95% corrected , the rest is tuned by me to achieve the 100% color.


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## Racer (Oct 27, 2005)

judyb said:


> We have found that using fillers on high wear areas is always risky. Generally speaking fillers shrink when they dry fully and so re cracking and finish failure is more likely when a filler has been used. We have found that the fillers do not flood a crack like a pigment does so does not reach the bottom of the crack as successfully as a pigment. Using only pigments (applied by a roller method) will fill the crack far more successfully and with more flexibility than a filler (always the right colour too). A primer can be used for additioinal adhesion which can be used on its own or added to the pigment. We would not use fillers on creases as the pigment has not necessarily been damaged and there is nothing to fill - a restoration pigment will adequately fill creases whilst keeping the flexibility necessary on that area.
> 
> We used to use filler up to about 6 years ago as the pigment brands on the market were not what the modern ones are. Since we have used the BRIT system we have not found it necessary at all - the job is made much quicker and easier and the adhesion has been much greater.
> 
> ...


The fillers i use aren´t the same of yours , so don´t compare something you don´t use of know about it.
The fillers used are elastic enough to stretch the leather to a point that it can´t be cracked again after the repair is done , i use this line for 3 years now and it works.


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## judyb (Sep 7, 2007)

We know there are many different fillers and with all due respect we have used many different systems and fillers that are out there - as a training company we need to know what delegates are using. We have found that they do not give the results that simply using the BRIT system does.


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*2. Repair Compound* (Filler)

This type of product is used to repair holes or medium to large surface splits as a thin layer of pigmentation alone does not have the structural strength to withstand multi directional stress, however, and when it's flexed or stretched continuously in the same place the surface coating develops minute cracks plus the friction abrasion of entering and exiting the vehicle.

Use a water-based leather repair compound (DT-152) which is air dried requiring no heat to cure. Allow to dry 20 minutes and refill as necessary. Filler can be buffed out with fine, 2500 grit finishing paper before application of pigmentation (colour).

When cured, this material remains totally flexible and natural feeling just like the original leather. It is a thick, paste compound which may be easily worked into crevices and cracks in order to bond the separated leather together permanently and fill crevices completely flush with the surrounding surface areas.

*3. Mechanical Repair* (Sub Patch)

For holes in leather, a mechanical repair will be necessary. A linen sub patch (D-111) should be used to repair medium to large surface splits to provide the necessary structural strength to withstand the constant flexing and friction abrasion of entering and exiting the vehicle. A linen sub-patch or a piece of leather should be used when performing repairs to leather that has a large hole or cut completely through the leather.

It should be cut to a minimum of ½-inch larger than the intended repair. Before you insert the backing piece cover it with adhesive and allow the adhesive to become tacky, hold it in place with tweezers until dry. Make certain that all edges and corners of the sub patch are laying flat and do not create a raised outline on the surface of the leather

It is always a good idea to round the corners of the sub patch creating a round or oblong shape without any sharp corners, this will help to prevent "show-through" on the surface as well as make the placement of the sub patch easier and more manageable. The sub patch must be held in place by use of a leather adhesive. The sub patch will strengthen the repair but will not protrude through or become visible on the outside surface of the material

*4. Leather adhesive *
Use a water-based adhesive that is especially designed for leather (DT-156) and will set up under light pressure. Therefore, drying time is almost instantaneous, and yet remains extremely soft and flexible with no hardening of the area to which it is applied. Its main purpose is to attach sub patch material to the underside of leather when making a repair. It may also be used to reattach leather to itself.

"Automotive Leather Repair and Renovation" an extract from one of a series of i articles The Art & Science of Detailing


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## Racer (Oct 27, 2005)

With due respect it´s your opinion that i don´t share at all , not the first leather repair i did and the durability is extreme, even in steering wheels it lasts forever with normal wear. :thumb:


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## ercapoccia (Nov 14, 2008)

judyb said:


> We know there are many different fillers and with all due respect we have used many different systems and fillers that are out there - as a training company we need to know what delegates are using. We have found that they do not give the results that simply using the BRIT system does.


Is this your BRIT sistem? 
http://www.lttsolutions.net/aniline-restoration-kit.asp


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## judyb (Sep 7, 2007)

This is not the BRIT system - you are looking at the consumer site and the kit you have found is for Aniline Leather only as it is a dye and not a pigment.

The BRIT system is on our trade website here.

Cheers
Judy


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

Racer said:


> With due respect it´s your opinion that i don´t share at all , not the first leather repair i did and the durability is extreme, even in steering wheels it lasts forever with normal wear. :thumb:


Everyone's entitled to their opinion, which very often is based upon their experience and what works for them, so it's often at variance to other opinions that are expressed.

Discussion of different products and methods for their application is what detailing forums should be all about


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## weekenddetailer (Aug 17, 2010)

Racer said:


> With due respect it´s your opinion that i don´t share at all , not the first leather repair i did and the durability is extreme, even in steering wheels it lasts forever with normal wear. :thumb:


those scanners are very good. Its the DATACOLOR 110R which can match colour to 0.5DE - so any difference is undetectable to the human eye.

I agree with racer, some of the fillers are absolutely necessary to repair cracks and remain flexible throughout the product life. depending on the primers and top coats used smaller cracks can be reduced but not as effectively as the fillers. There are one or two companies that use these repair systems in Europe and they are by far superior to the 'old school match by eye that'll do brigade'. Those rattle-can SEM/Brit products are average at best, its always better to use the products that the tanneries do and give the best refinish possible.


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## zimtimtim (Jul 30, 2010)

-Mat-... Did you ever manage to restore your leather?

I'm looking to do mine and wanted to know how you got on?


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## judyb (Sep 7, 2007)

> Those rattle-can SEM/Brit products are average at best, its always better to use the products that the tanneries do and give the best refinish possible.


BRIT does not come in a can and is far superior to anything else on the market at the moment. The problem with colour mixing machines is that you are stuck with the products that they are calibrated to and if these are not good quality products it doesn't matter how good the colour mix is. Mixing by eye is an art and any good repair technician needs to know how to do it because otherwise they are unable to adjust the colour produced by the machine if it is wrong - we have seen this so many times on jobs.

The products produced for the tanneries are produced for new leather. BRIT is specifically produced as a restoration product for old and worn leather which are a completely different problem.


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## gregb (Feb 1, 2009)

I've used this kit too about two tears ago to repair a 3" tear in my back seat and to restore the bolsters on front seats plus a general clean up and restore of the finish on all seats. I didnt use the airbrush just the applicators supplied and I have to say it made for a fantastic transformation. I used the filler, white, too and it dyes fine with about 3 coats. Still looking like new 2 years later :thumb:

http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Colourant_Kit.htm


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## The Cueball (Feb 8, 2007)

zimtimtim said:


> -Mat-... Did you ever manage to restore your leather?
> 
> I'm looking to do mine and wanted to know how you got on?


Not sure about Mat, but I did!!

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=198550

I'm happy with the results for a first time...

:thumb:


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## Griff.. (Dec 18, 2010)

My mums 2007 range rover's leather seats have slight scuffing it's a common fault, do I get the furniture leather kit £25 or liquid leather kit £15
Which is best?


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## Racer (Oct 27, 2005)

judyb said:


> BRIT does not come in a can and is far superior to anything else on the market at the moment. The problem with colour mixing machines is that you are stuck with the products that they are calibrated to and if these are not good quality products it doesn't matter how good the colour mix is. Mixing by eye is an art and any good repair technician needs to know how to do it because otherwise they are unable to adjust the colour produced by the machine if it is wrong - we have seen this so many times on jobs.
> 
> The products produced for the tanneries are produced for new leather. BRIT is specifically produced as a restoration product for old and worn leather which are a completely different problem.


The machine gives 95% of the colour mix , the others 5% are human experience and eye.
The colour comes exact right of the leather sample after full cleaning of it.
Im not talking from something i read or i don´t have it....


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## Racer (Oct 27, 2005)

The Cueball said:


> Not sure about Mat, but I did!!
> 
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=198550
> 
> ...


Great work on the leather man :thumb:
And yes the filler should be very thin and in layers , you must let it dry for some time.
I wait 24 hours between coats...and that´s work


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