# Can somebody advise on what it causing this wash marring?!



## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

Hi,

I always seem to get this type of wash marring no matter what i do. I'm pretty sure its from the klin korea twisted drying towel.

I sort of place it down and lightly run it over the surface after a 2bm with plenty of pre wash stages etc. I use a klin korea wash mitt but feel like the marks appear during drying.

Both items are washed and dried after each wash using microfibre detergent.

Car is a VW Polo, sometimes i have to wash in intermittent sunny weather as i dont have access to shade - if this makes a difference?!

Pic;


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## Rappy (Oct 2, 2020)

Anything that touches the car could be the cause.

Wash mitt, drying towels etc..

Where do you store both after use?


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## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

Rappy said:


> Anything that touches the car could be the cause.
> 
> Wash mitt, drying towels etc..
> 
> Where do you store both after use?


Once dry, the mitt goes back into the zip bag it was supplied, then it and the towel are placed into a plastic tup with a clip top lid.


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## pt1 (Feb 8, 2014)

How long you had the car? Maybe its had fillers hiding the marring.what condition is the paint in? Your mitts and drying towels wont cause that if used properly so there has to dirt/contamination in some stage of your car washing /drying process

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk


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## JoeyJoeJo (Jan 3, 2014)

I had a golf that was very susceptible,drove me mental, quite a few people reported the same with a variety of products. Not had those problems on any other car before or since.
Using a glaze helps, PB Black Hole was the best for me.

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=406853


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

I’d look at polishing all that out and start all over again by a full wash/ decon then re-apply fresh wax or coatings then tweak your process . May help make a difference as I’m struggling to get how you have this issue as it seems ok to me.


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## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

pt1 said:


> How long you had the car? Maybe its had fillers hiding the marring.what condition is the paint in? Your mitts and drying towels wont cause that if used properly so there has to dirt/contamination in some stage of your car washing /drying process
> 
> Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk


Had the car over two years. I can get rid of the marks with something like Menzerna 3500 and a soft pad, no fillers. Just dont want to be doing that after every wash lol.

I think i'll have to start dabbing with the towel instead, or changing to an ultra plush rather than twisted.


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## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

JoeyJoeJo said:


> I had a golf that was very susceptible,drove me mental, quite a few people reported the same with a variety of products. Not had those problems on any other car before or since.
> Using a glaze helps, PB Black Hole was the best for me.
> 
> https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=406853


Taken a look at this and your thread. Everyone is following what you would think is the safest method but i see images which look identical to my issue. I wonder if this is a VW thing then - especially when somebody put, 'VW paint may be hard, but that doesn't mean its still easy to swirl up'.

Glad to know i'm not the only one scratching their head as to whats going on.


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## HEADPHONES (Jan 1, 2008)

A tip I picked up on DW many moons ago was to never use a dry drying towel.
Soak it then wring it out til damp.
Then there's more lubrication so to speak when it contacts the paint.
Also no pressure when drying the car.....more of a pat or lightest possible swipe.
Same for the actual mitt wash, lightest wipe possible.

If you're already doing all the above I have no idea what else you can do.


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## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

HEADPHONES said:


> A tip I picked up on DW many moons ago was to never use a dry drying towel.
> Soak it then wring it out til damp.
> Then there's more lubrication so to speak when it contacts the paint.
> Also no pressure when drying the car.....more of a pat or lightest possible swipe.
> ...


Oh yeah, i always spritz the towel liberally with some demon shine pour on shine mixed with water and dry the windows first to pic up some extra moisture.


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## suds (Apr 27, 2012)

Hmmm, make of car is a red herring to me.The simple answer is friction somewhere in your routine of course. The marring is either under your LSP (in your paint) Or it's your LSP which is being married - so that question needs settling first. An easy solution is to use filtered water, but until then another consideration is why do you have so much water left on your vertical panels that you even felt the need to wipe dry?
And, don't skimp on the shampoo, use extra to increase lubrication if necessary?


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## pt1 (Feb 8, 2014)

ad_182_uk said:


> Oh yeah, i always spritz the towel liberally with some demon shine pour on shine mixed with water and dry the windows first to pic up some extra moisture.


I dont know how much lubrication demon shine will provide, better than nothing though i guess. Maybe try a dedicated good quality quick detailer which will add more lubrication to the drying process. 
As mentioned, i would now polish the car and start with a clean slate

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk


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## HEADPHONES (Jan 1, 2008)

After reading about someone else with similar problems on DW today, I thought I'd add an extra technique that I use during my 2BM wash.

Think of your clearcaot as your EYEBALL.
If you had sand and grit your eye, you sure as hell wouldn't get a rough rag, dip it in soap and scrub away like a £5 supermarket car wash man.

You'd rinse it under the tap.......aka your prewash.
But then you wouldn't stop there and go to a damp cloth and wipe your eye.
You'd probably procede to use a cloth to gently clean your eye WHILST STILL running it under a tap.

So to recreate this scenario, I have 2 buckets AND 2 mitts.
Left hand mitt only ever goes in shampoo bucket to load up with shampoo.
Right hand mitt gets one dunk in the shampoo bucket at the start only.
Then as I wash a section of paint with the right mitt, the left mitt is used to create a gentle flow of clean shampoo over the area my right mitt is cleaning.

Right mitt then goes in the rinse bucket, left mitt reloads with clean shampoo in the shampoo bucket and off I go to the next section of the panel.

I see much much less grit in the rinse bucket this way as the wash mitt is undergoing a continuous rinse as it washes.

This will cost you next to nothing in time or money and is as close to being as gentle as washing your eye as I can realistically get to.


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

ad_182_uk said:


> Hi,
> 
> I always seem to get this type of wash marring no matter what i do. I'm pretty sure its from the klin korea twisted drying towel.
> 
> ...


From all you've said about your routine, nothing sounds out of place.

Is it just that panel or on all of them? If it's just that one, are there any signs that it has been repainted?

Are you sure your polish and pad combo are actually removing these holograms and that you're priming the pad correctly? Ensure you're using a panel wipe and inspect your work under bright light or in direct sun because holograms aren't visible without the right light.


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

I have long said I believe more damage is done during drying. Rubbing a dry surface with a dry surface will always do this without dome lubrication 
My advice is either use filtered water to eliminate drying, or use a drying aid. Something like bilt hamber auto qd adds lubrication when drying without adding sealants


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

If you car has a decent LSP you should be able to remove 90% of the water with a slow flowing open hose and only need a drying towel for the nooks and crannies and intricate areas.

Alternatively a watering can with the rose removed can be used instead with good results at sheeting the water off.

Alan W


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## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

atbalfour said:


> From all you've said about your routine, nothing sounds out of place.
> 
> Is it just that panel or on all of them? If it's just that one, are there any signs that it has been repainted?
> 
> Are you sure your polish and pad combo are actually removing these holograms and that you're priming the pad correctly? Ensure you're using a panel wipe and inspect your work under bright light or in direct sun because holograms aren't visible without the right light.


It's all the panels, yes the polish / pad i use will remove these marks. Stumped :/


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## Rappy (Oct 2, 2020)

Rappy said:


> Anything that touches the car could be the cause.
> 
> Wash mitt, drying towels etc..


As mentioned at the start.


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## Rappy (Oct 2, 2020)

ad_182_uk said:


> It's all the panels, yes the polish / pad i use will remove these marks. Stumped :/


I would simply correct the car and add a decent LSP with great water beading.

Get yourself a decent blower & do not touch the paint.


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## Itstony (Jan 19, 2018)

Sheet the water off (As Alan already said). that should be a dot on the card.
Blower to remove most.
Then just pat dry. Sod that dragging a towel over the paintwork, never did see the point personally.
Then back to the blower to get rid of the water in the ceases, cracks and crannies. 
You wont suffer water spotting either.:thumb:


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## jd1982 (Jul 24, 2011)

Sorry if I've missed anything from this post... But your not supposed to wash the towel after each and every use!

These towels (and others) are supposed to dry the vehicle and left out to dry.

Washing them stops them absorbing water, turns them hard and stops them from functioning properly.

If you have a good wash routine then the towel should really never be soiled. STOP WASHING IT!

If you have to wash it (and other microfibers) then use Sainsbury's, Asda or other delicates wool wash and never non bio standard detergent.

The problem will be the towel and not your wash mitt.

I've owned my twisted towel for nearly a year and it's not been washed once. No need since it's not soiled. It's dried, put back into it's zip locked bag and stashed away.


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## Blackroc (Dec 10, 2012)

jd1982 said:


> Sorry if I've missed anything from this post... But your not supposed to wash the towel after each and every use!
> 
> These towels (and others) are supposed to dry the vehicle and left out to dry.
> 
> ...


I've got 5 year old drying towels (including twisted versions) that are used and washed daily with Persil non-bio liquid, 30 degrees then tumble dried. Washing it is 100% not going to cause it issues!

I always dry the windows first so that the towel is damp prior to being used on paintwork - zero wash marring issues

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

stangalang said:


> I have long said I believe more damage is done during drying. Rubbing a dry surface with a dry surface will always do this without dome lubrication
> My advice is either use filtered water to eliminate drying, or use a drying aid. Something like *bilt hamber auto qd adds lubrication when drying without adding sealants*


? something it will add


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Blackroc said:


> I've got 5 year old drying towels (including twisted versions) that are used and washed daily with Persil non-bio liquid, 30 degrees then tumble dried. Washing it is 100% not going to cause it issues!
> 
> I always dry the windows first so that the towel is damp prior to being used on paintwork - zero wash marring issues
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Another one for this. Washing with softener is the problem, but without is fine. And tumbling softens the fibres back up.

I do find with my drying towels that they lint a lot, but I just need better ones.


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## JoeyJoeJo (Jan 3, 2014)

Always a topic that makes me smile....


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## AB_ (Apr 16, 2020)

jd1982 said:


> Sorry if I've missed anything from this post... But your not supposed to wash the towel after each and every use!
> 
> These towels (and others) are supposed to dry the vehicle and left out to dry.
> 
> ...


All of the above is absolute rubbish.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

I'd first be looking at the wash mitt. You can always polish up one panel and try the mitt only and see what you get.
I use a Chemical Guys mic493 mitt and it goes in the washer after every use and then hung up to dry. I've had no marring on my black paint since the last polish 11 months ago. I don't use a drying towel.


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## Johnyb (Feb 5, 2018)

Get a blower then you can at least eliminate the towel part of the process, what are you protecting the car with? has it got a good wax, sealant or coating on?


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## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

GeeWhizRS said:


> I'd first be looking at the wash mitt. You can always polish up one panel and try the mitt only and see what you get.
> I use a Chemical Guys mic493 mitt and it goes in the washer after every use and then hung up to dry. I've had no marring on my black paint since the last polish 11 months ago. I don't use a drying towel.


I got myself a new klin korea microfibre wash mitt as my other one was a fair few years old, i do like the look of that chemical guys one though, I recall touching one or at least one very similar and thinking it felt a fair bit softer that the klin / microfibre madness ones.

As for the marring, ill monitor on my next wash as I have just done full decon, menz 2500 and blackfire GEP/AFPP/MS Ivory paste wax. So will see next time round as ill only pat dry with the towel so will know if its the mitt or not then.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

I think I've seen a couple of threads similar to this with seemingly unfathomable wash marring. It might be a coincidence but I'm pretty sure all involved grey VW paint.
Hope your next wash goes well. :thumb:


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## ad_182_uk (Mar 2, 2014)

GeeWhizRS said:


> I think I've seen a couple of threads similar to this with seemingly unfathomable wash marring. It might be a coincidence but I'm pretty sure all involved grey VW paint.
> Hope your next wash goes well. :thumb:


You are correct, there does seem to be a few other cases where similar wash marring is being discussed and it does seem to be VW paint! 'Hard' paint but easily micromarred it seems


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