# Meguiars 105, 205, pads & problems



## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

Hi there,

So just got into machine polishing, with Meguiars 105, 205, hexlogic orange and hexlogic white.

My bonnet, looks pretty damn good. But I've recently done the whole left side, including front wing and it looks no where near as glossy or good as the bonnet. I have a 2004 Clio (how hard is the paint). On the left side there is still visible swirls and fine hairline scratches I we're hoping would've gone (or so they did on the bonnet, and they we're deeper!)

What am I doing wrong? I reckon I've wrecked the pad, so I've ordered a new one. The pad was flat and the protrusions we're flatter and the whole pad was soft and didn't feel as aggressive as any more. These swirls aren't going on the left side, should I get another new pad (maybe harshes) or another compound? I do like 105/205 as it's easy to use, and gives nice results.

Bit stuck, cheers!


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## danwel (Feb 18, 2007)

You could try a pad with more cut,maybe green and then orange until you reach the desired level of correction as white is fairly minimal tbh


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

Which, brand of pads are you using plus pressure as well.


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## CTR De (Feb 10, 2011)

time to step it up buddy 

what machine are you using (da?)

step it up to a more agressive pad and spend a bit more time on each section , buff and check and dont move on till its at a suitable level of correction that your happy with


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

Sorry chaps, using Chemical Guys Hexlogic Orange Pad with Meguiars 105, and then the Chemical Guys Hexlogic White Pad with 205. So orange for compound, white for finishing. Using DAS-6 pro  I have been spending a long time on each section, but still a little scared of taking too much paint off haha! It's daunting, but it's getting 'normal' now after 6 hours or so doing the bonnett  Pressure, is about right.. feels good, I also do take my time.


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## B17BLG (Jun 26, 2012)

Are you masking off into smaller areas and spending decent time on each section?


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

I'm surprised the orange pad has split or broken, these are very robust pads, did you catch the pad on a sharp edge at all.
Orange pad with 105 gives a decent correction on most paints, just take your time on the effected swirls and frequently check your work, slow machine movements across the affected areas that are worse and monitor your correction.


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## DesertDog (May 15, 2011)

Have a look at this excellent guide:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=284955


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

B17BLG said:


> Are you masking off into smaller areas and spending decent time on each section?


Sure am!  Definetely not rushing, I think it's actually down to the pad.. or my paint. It's a 54 plate, and probably never been machine polished (or probably hand polished). It did have a layer of FK100P on it, that won't affect it will it?


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

Clay the paint before hand, a polish with machine will take the fk1000 off in seconds, a wax is a very thin coat on top of the paint.


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

Paint had been clayed 2 weeks before, so didn't think it needed doing again. It doesn't feel contaminated, it's really smooth. I did the bag test  Should I try the Chemical guys Yellow pad with 105?


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## geoff.mac (Oct 13, 2010)

Clio paint as a rule is usually medium to hard, I'm doing one now and I'm using megs 101 mixed with a bit of megs ultimate compound as I find it gives longer working times. 
Its a time thing I'm afraid, just take your time, on sections I've had to use the hex Yellow, but I've a paint reader so know how much I can take off as yellow is for heavy cut. 
otherwise I'm using hex orange or green then finish will a blue 3m pad with the 205
hth & good luck 

Cheers
Geoff


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## CTR De (Feb 10, 2011)

it pretty hard to say what your doing wrong with out seeing you use it , it may be your moving the machine about to fast , 

use overlapping passes moving the pad about 1in per second with a reasonable pressure (10-15 pounds is about average)

remember a da is virtually harmless unless you start whacking the car with it :lol:

also if you use too much pressure you will stop the cutting action as the disk will bog down and stop spinning , keep the spin speed going as well as the orbits as this is when its cutting at it best


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

I'm moving left to right, up and down nice and slow. It feels right, and gave really good results on the bonnet. I think I got carried away with the polish and put a bit too much on. The pad is torn on the sides, and bits are starting to fall off. The white one looks fine, the orange looks about 6 year old haha. 

The polish seems to dry up way too much, even with Autofinesse finale detailing spray. I don't think I'm pressing too hard either!


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

One reason a pad collapses or becomes damaged is too much product on the pad, and not regularly spurring the surface of the pad. This reduces the effectiveness of the pad as well, which is likley why you saw your correction dropping off...

Only two pea sized blobs of product needed, worked for a good three or so minutes with 105 over a 18" square area (so Clio wing in 4 or more sections at least). Keep the pad surface clean, ensure there is no clotting of product on the pad which can quickly destroy the foam of a pad.


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

Is it best to apply for compound in between the protrusions or on top of the protrusions? Spurring? Not sure what that is, maybe it's autocorrect on your phone? Spritzing or spraying?  

If the pad get's clogged up a little too much, should I stop, pack up, wash pad? I only have one, maybe it's a good idea to buy a couple more! Maybe 3 x orange 3 x white. I was using that one pad for a good 3 hours one day. How often should I mist the pad?


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## umi000 (Jan 14, 2011)

You did not mention cleaning, and do not know what spurring is, so I'm guessing you're not cleaning your pad in between sections. There are a variety of ways to do it - cleaning on the fly with a towel, using a pad cleaning brush, using those grit guard pad washers - but you do need to clean after every section, to ensure that you remove spent polish and paint residue (you are after all removing paint when polishing), helping to maintain the pad effectiveness.


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

umi000 said:


> You did not mention cleaning, and do not know what spurring is, so I'm guessing you're not cleaning your pad in between sections. There are a variety of ways to do it - cleaning on the fly with a towel, using a pad cleaning brush, using those grit guard pad washers - but you do need to clean after every section, to ensure that you remove spent polish and paint residue (you are after all removing paint when polishing), helping to maintain the pad effectiveness.


This is where I'm going wrong, I was using the pad for a couple of hours without cleaning it. I was only spraying it with quick detailer. Wiping it with a microfibre towel.. Just wipe it gently or rub quite hard? I think I'll get a pad cleaning brush.


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Haha, autocorrect on my phone ... I'm afraid I've not got the technology to access forums on my phone 

Yes, this does indeed sound like where the issue is. Spurring is the term used to describe taking a brush or "pad spur" to the pad to agitate the surface and remove clotted polish. It is not necessary to wash the pad, simply agitate the surface (I actually use an old toothbrush, just be careful not to wreck the surface of the pad) to remove the left over polish.

A point of note, however - if you have a lot of polish clotted on the pad, this is an indication that you are using too much polish and not working it thoroughly.. less polish, longer work times. With the x05 products from Meguiars, I would use water only as a spritz and only to increase the work time, not a quick detailer.


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

Yeah keep it clean.Tbh the pads your using should get rid of your swirls.Make sure you PRIME your pads as well before you start,a couple of drops of #205 rubbed into the pad by hand.And take your time you'll get there in the end


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

I'll stick to water then rather than QD and will grab a toothbrush later. The only reason I think I put a tad too much polish on, is because I'm a little scared of burning the paint by having not enough polish. Is this even possible? Cheers guys!


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

Dj.X-Ray said:


> Yeah keep it clean.Tbh the pads your using should get rid of your swirls.Make sure you PRIME your pads as well before you start,a couple of drops of #205 rubbed into the pad by hand.And take your time you'll get there in the end


Should the pad be primed just once after a thorough wash in the washing machine for example? By priming the pad, we mean scattering the polish about thoroughly all around the pad? Cheers.


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## Jonny_R (Oct 23, 2012)

Might be worth checking out the DA manual on here mate.

Ive been reading around the bubject of DA'ing for 3 - 4 months now and only just taken the plunge to buy one!

Its a pretty in depth subject to get your head round if im honest!


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Thrill said:


> I'll stick to water then rather than QD and will grab a toothbrush later. The only reason I think I put a tad too much polish on, is because I'm a little scared of burning the paint by having not enough polish. Is this even possible? Cheers guys!


A dry pad can scour the finish, but a light mist with water will help to guard against this before use and also once you have spread the polish at low speed, it will be on the surface of the paint and the pad so you should have little to worry about. You get an indication of a dry pad - it will squeak or squeal.


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

I think I'm just putting too much polish on and making the pad soggy to be honest mate. Apply polish, spread at low speed and then knock speed up to 5 and carry on normally. I think I'm spreading it a little too fast too. Thank you!


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## CTR De (Feb 10, 2011)

great , glad the hiccup is now solved , crack on and show us some pics when your done :thumb:


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

CTR De said:


> great , glad the hiccup is now solved , crack on and show us some pics when your done :thumb:


If I'm being honest, there's not _that_ much difference from a distance


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

Thrill said:


> Should the pad be primed just once after a thorough wash in the washing machine for example? By priming the pad, we mean scattering the polish about thoroughly all around the pad? Cheers.


Yeah just rub in with your hand.Not just after you've washed em,anytime you're about to use them.Dosen't matter if they're new,old whatever :detailer:


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## CTR De (Feb 10, 2011)

where are you thrill ??? , if your anywhere near me id be happy to help you out


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## dooka (Aug 1, 2006)

Your pad choice is fine. I think it is down to not using the polishes correctly. You may be inflicting swirls with the 105 and the 205 isn't removing. Don't forget 105 & 205 are SMAT polishes, so they don't breakdown, pressure and speed are key with these polishes..

Try either running your last few passes with 105 at a slow speed and ramp up the speed a little with the 205 on a White pad..


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

Derbyshire mate 



dooka said:


> Your pad choice is fine. I think it is down to not using the polishes correctly. You may be inflicting swirls with the 105 and the 205 isn't removing. Don't forget 105 & 205 are SMAT polishes, so they don't breakdown, pressure and speed are key with these polishes..
> 
> Try either running your last few passes with 105 at a slow speed and ramp up the speed a little with the 205 on a White pad..


I used the exact same process on the bonnet though (when the pad was brand new) and refined with 205, and that looks flawless. I'll give it a going over again with 105/205 when i get my new pad i think  thanks for all tips guys!


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

In addition to all the polishing talk it is also possible the panel has been resprayed with a harder paint and therefore would simply take longer to correct


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## Thrill (Oct 23, 2012)

I don't think it has, it does have a couple of creases though.. and two small dents in back pillar. Hope not, haha!


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

Just take your time on the more effected areas, slow speeds and monitor your progress regularly, might need repeated hits on the worst sections, just take your time and you get there in the end, it's all practise :thumb:


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

If using a da, and getting good results on horizontal an els, but poor results on vertical panels, I'm gonna say it's technique. What I've noticed is some struggle o still hold the machine perfectly parallel to the panels on the side of the car, this gives the impression of applying appropriate pressure as it stops/slows the pad spinning, thus reducing correction significantly. Just make sure that you have machine placement spot on on side panels, and flow with the curves with your back hand


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## shakysco (Sep 18, 2008)

Just watched the junkman videos on doing the same stuff with the 105 and 205 sounded like too much polish u were using , 3 or 4 pea size bits on a pad he used with detailing spray to keep it wet..

Defo worth watching his videos on using the 105 and 205 thou , there's a link on here somewhere or YouTube


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## dave- (Nov 8, 2012)

I find this odd because I did my car with 105 and orange hex pad with rotary at over 2000 RPM and the pad looks like new still. I think you did not treat your paint before you started or too much pressure.


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

shakysco said:


> Just watched the junkman videos on doing the same stuff with the 105 and 205 sounded like too much polish u were using , 3 or 4 pea size bits on a pad he used with detailing spray to keep it wet..
> 
> Defo worth watching his videos on using the 105 and 205 thou , there's a link on here somewhere or YouTube


Neither polishes require qd, pad conditioner/lube of any kind, they are perfect the way they are. I know lots do, or at least say they use do, but trust me they don't require any spritz at all


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## shakysco (Sep 18, 2008)

stangalang said:


> Neither polishes require qd, pad conditioner/lube of any kind, they are perfect the way they are. I know lots do, or at least say they use do, but trust me they don't require any spritz at all


Sorry should of said junkman in the videos only uses a little detailing lube on the clay bar part before using the 105 and 205 then only the tinyest amount /spray of watered down lube at the polishing parts, his videos were well worth a watch and I'm a beginner so perfect for me...


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## shakysco (Sep 18, 2008)

Here's the link to the thread

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=281047


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

shakysco said:


> Sorry should of said junkman in the videos only uses a little detailing lube on the clay bar part before using the 105 and 205 then only the tinyest amount /spray of watered down lube at the polishing parts, his videos were well worth a watch and I'm a beginner so perfect for me...


He has a charm about him no?


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## CTR De (Feb 10, 2011)

brother in his garage productions are great fun and junkmans a star in the making :lol:


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

CTR De said:


> brother in his garage productions are great fun and junkmans a star in the making :lol:


Who is this Junkman? I need to meet this guy. 



stangalang said:


> Neither polishes require qd, pad conditioner/lube of any kind, they are perfect the way they are. I know lots do, or at least say they use do, but trust me they don't require any spritz at all


That completely depends on a lot of different variables.

If you are working in any situation that is not ideal to polishing paint, you will need to use a quick detailer to assist the polish in staying manageable. Working on a hot surface, very humid conditions or in direct sunlight are just a few of those undesirable conditions. If you clog the pad with too much polish, spritzing the pad with a quick detailer (while NOT adding any more polish), will help flush out the excess polish. Spritzing will also help control dusting, which can occur with heavier polishes when working in undesirable conditions.

So although the polishes may be perfect as they are, the conditions that they may be used in or the way that they may be used can create a less than perfect situation.


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## CTR De (Feb 10, 2011)

:lol: , hows things junkman :thumb: , any new vids on the horizon ?


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Sorry junkman perhaps I wasn't clear. I agree lots of polishes do, but not thevmegs twins was my point :thumb: if peeps are clogging pads "during" a set with 205 then they are doing something wrong. And IMO, any adverse conditions that dry 205 out early will dry out a qd also. At least in my opinion.


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Quick detailer can sometimes help, sometimes it can hinder and work against the lubricants in the polish either by reacting with them (accelerated by the heat of polishing) or simply adding the the pad clotting... With Meguiars #205, water is far more ideal than quick detailer and can be used to lengthen the work time in my experience and it works very well this way.

Quick detailer is definitely not the solution to a clotting pad though, in my humble opinion... the answer to a clotting pad is spurring to get the clumps of polish off the surface and agitated out of the pad... if polish is soaked into the pad, adding more liquid simply adds to what is trapped rather than flushing. Again, just my personal opinion, and thus it is not something I recommend... Of course, the best solution to pad clotting is prevention rather than cure - use less polish and work it for longer so as not to clot the pad as this is the two main reasons for a pad becoming clotted in the first place.


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

CTR De said:


> :lol: , hows things junkman :thumb: , any new vids on the horizon ?


Yes there are. Subscribed members will be notified as soon as they post.



stangalang said:


> Sorry junkman perhaps I wasn't clear. I agree lots of polishes do, but not thevmegs twins was my point :thumb: if peeps are clogging pads "during" a set with 205 then they are doing something wrong. And IMO, any adverse conditions that dry 205 out early will dry out a qd also. At least in my opinion.


I agree with the fact that the polishes themselves are not the issue, it's when the polishes are used in adverse conditions or improperly that their performance can be hindered. I love the polishes as they are. :thumb:



Dave KG said:


> ... Of course, the best solution to pad clotting is prevention rather than cure - use less polish and work it for longer so as not to clot the pad as this is the two main reasons for a pad becoming clotted in the first place.


I agree 100%!


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