# Wheel Arch and Undercarrige Detailing Guide



## Rich

Took these pics ages ago when doing a detail on the 205 GTi to show the process used for Wheel Arch and Undercarrige Detailing. It's not the ideal car to show you everything on as the arches and floorpan are quite textured (Does not allow easy polishing) or have much in the way of Arch liners (Like more modern cars) will try and dig some 306 Pics out to show these later, but will try and include detail of what to do even though the pics might not show these aspects.

It is possible to do this detail with the wheels on and just jacking the car up, but the ideal way is wheels off which I have shown here.

1992 80K Odd Daily Drive 205 GTi

Step 1 - Loosen Wheel Nuts

With the car still firmly on the ground loosen the wheel nuts, I find a proper wheel brace rather than the car one supplied does a much better job. You will need the locking wheel nut key if fitted and on some cars you may need to remove the wheel centre caps/nut covers.










Step 2 - Jack Up The Car

Please refer to your car manual as to where the correct jacking points are. Again I find a proper jack is more suitable than the one supplied by the car.










Jack the car up and remove the wheel, before going any further get an axle stand in a safe point. (Again this will be specific to your car).










At these stage you can decide weather to do the job arch by arch or back end/ front end.

I decided to do the back end first so repeated the process on the other back wheel, leaving the whole back end ready to clean.


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## Rich

Step 3 - If you car has a spare now is a good time to drop it down to allow full access to the back floorpan










Chances are it will be quite dirty!










Step 4 - Degrease

To help shift any stubborn muck liberally spray a good cleaner to the arches and floor pan, allow few mins for it to do its stuff, agitate with a soft brush also helps










You can now start to attack the dirt with some water, either hose pipe with some decent pressure or if the area is really dirty a pressure washer helps.



















Attack both arches and the floorpan


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## Rich

Step 4 - Scrub It!

The degreaser and water will do a good job of cleaning up the arches and floorpan quite well. But a scrub with soapy water will really be needed to get them properly clean. Some cheap car wash and a sponge cut in half is ideal to scrub the areas really well. Again a soft brush may help. In stubborn areas re-apply a degreaser if needed as well as something like Autoglym Tar Remover as required.










With the car in the air its an idea time to do the sills properly too.










Rinse off shampoo with the pressure washer or hose. While it dries off a bit, this is the ideal time to tackel the wheels, again I use the same products as above inside and out on the wheels.










While these are drying off a bit, dry the undercarrige and arches of with an old towl or cloth. Old Autoglym Chammys are ideal for this.

The same process is needed on the front end, I normally do the whole back end first, get the wheels back on. Lowe the car down and repeat on the front end.


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## Rich

Step 5 - Wheel Sealant.

Dry the wheels off and then its an ideal time to polish and seal inside and out.
After washing, degreasing and tar removing, polish and seal. Autoglym Super Resin and Extra Gloss or Klasse AIO and SG are ideal for this task.

Step 6- Polish and Dress

Some cars are easier than others here, Arche liners on some cars mean there is very little to polish. These Plastic liners can be dressed with you favourite plastic dressing, but I have yet to find a product that does not attract dust day to day, so reserve this until I arrive at a show.

If the paint your wheel arches/floorpan is nice and smooth you can polish, wax or seal them if you like. I dont go to mad here, normally a one step product such as AIO or AG Super Resin is ideal. This should stop muck sticking, make it easy to clean at each normal washing and look good to. In my experience paint qulaity here is not the greatest, but if inclinced you could treat this like the paint on the uper half of your car!










Other parts like struts, suspension components, shocks, rear beams, cables and wires can be polished or dressed as required depending on finish/material, stainless parts such as exhausts can be polished up with some metal polish.


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## Rich

Step 6 - Refit Wheels










If you are planning on showing the vehicle it is worth dressing the inside profile of the tyre and spare wheel if fitted.










Replace the spare back under the car and re attch the road wheels.



















Dress the tyres.

Step 7 - Torque!

Jack the car up and remove the axle stands. Lower the car back onto its wheels. IMPORTANT - check and tighten all of the wheel bolts with a torque wrench to the settings in the manual for your car.

Jobs a good un. I will try and sort some more pics of cars with plastic arch liners and do a quick right up on painting/tidying brakes and hubs etc up for concours type cars over xmas and add them here.

Cheers

Rich


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## 182_Blue

flipping excellent, briliant write up, loads of important details too, nice to see someone as anal as me about my arches


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## Alex L

fantastic Rich,

thats on the list for the spring clean.

i think it'd be good to see more of what goes on to get your cars ready for the concours stuff.

Alex


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## Brazo

Excellent guide Rich, As Alex says your the concourse man and just from seeing your pics I can see a lot of work goes into it!!


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## Rich

Cheers guys - Will sort some more pics on other aspects of bits that can be detailed for anyone that wants to show a car a bit later on.

On tip I forgot to add it is worth applying a small amount of copper grease to each wheel bolt and even between the wheel face and hub (if you not showing the car) to stop bits sticking together.


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## Mr Shiny

Rich, thats a fantastic write up mate, keep up the good work mate.


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## sworks16

great guide should come in handy next year


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## Rich

*DRESSING AND POLISHING ARCHES*

With Smoother paintwork it is possible to apply products such as Klasse AIO easily to the painted areas. This makes cleaning them on a weekly basis very easy. Even on daily drive cars I try and do this twice a year. Once in the Autumn to give some winter protection, and once in spring to clean up the winter grime.

On my show car this was done before each show.










It may be worth keeping any MF's you care about from these tasks. A mixture of old MF's and a throw away AG Polishing cloths works well here. Apply the polish as you would to the paintwork on any painted areas you can here. Arch paintwork, painted calipers, suspension parts etc.










Modern cars tend to have plastic arch liners fitted. These can be cleaned wshed and tar removed as described earlier. You then have the choice weather to dress or not. On a daily drive car doing this will lead to dirt sticking to them with some products. Autoglym Bumper Care Gel works well if you rub it in well and then buff it off. These seemed to leave a non greay or sticky finish that repelled water and does not attract dirt. When applied in this way it is very factory in apperance.

At shows AG Vinyl and Rubber works well, leaves a dressed apperance but will attract dirt.


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## Rich

* PAINTING PARTS *

Keeping the calipers, hubs and brake dust shields clean is one of the harest parts. The car nature means dirt seems to get ingrained in these bits and will not come clean, cleaners tend to discolour these parts.

Painting these parts works quite wheel enabling them to easily clean up with soap and water, and be polsih and sealable like other parts.

There are specialist products out there to do this job, but smooth finish hammerite seems to work as well, hold up to high temps at the fraction of the cost. It is worth getting the thinners and thining it down a little even for brush application as it goes on better.

Clean up the calipers with a wire brush first to remove any corrosion. Mine had already been painted i the pics so another coat was being added. A once yearly job on the 306 as it was used in concours events.

After brushing clean and degrease you calipers and hubs. A mixture of Autoglym Engine and machine cleaner followed by brake cleaner works well in preping for paint.



















When dry mak up any parts you dont want to get paint on, on the calipers bleed nipples and where the pipes join the caliper is advised. Taking the brake pads out makes things easier to. For those handy with the spanners taking the calipers of the car and using a spray version of hammerite works even better.



















If you are trying to imapart a factory look, the silver and gold paints in the smooth line look better than the hammered finished equivilents.


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## Rich

With the wheels back on with an open type design you can see the worth in painting the hubs, rusty ones ruin the look of nicely detailed wheels and arches.


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## Rich

*FINISHING TOUCHES*

It can be hard to know where to stop when doing this kind of thing on a car which is judged and scruntised all over by judges at a show. You really need to pay attention to every inch of the car.

If something can be cleaned it needs to be. The main problem is certain parts sometimes ar beyond cleaning, painting will either look wrong, or lose you points on origionality if you are in a standard type car class at a show.

In my last season doing concours the exhaust system would not clean up and was replaced despite being in full working order!










With the rear box of it does enavle you to see and clean up alot more of the floorpan.

Metal parts are polished with metal polish, and can be followed up with AG Super Resin and Extra Gloss if you want to protect the finish more.










Painted Suspension parts such as rear beams, trailing arms, torsion bars can be polished to agin a good one step product such as AG SRP or Klasse AIO works wheel. The floor pan if not undersealed can be treated the same way, as can brake lines etc.










Undersealed areas can be cleaned up with soapy water, or even have a fresh coat applied if you are so inclined. Rubber and plastic parts can be dressed.










The spare wheel can be cleaned polished and sealed in the same way as the road wheels, and the tyre dressed.










The more attention to detail you pay here, the more points you will pick up in the competiton. You may get some odd looks from the MOT man when you go for your yearly test though!

A standard car is much harder to maintain than a modifed one where yoy could do as the RS boys do and remove all the underseal paint the whole pan, and replace everything with stainless parts for easy polishing (...oh and not ever drive them at alland trailer them to shows!  ) but trying to maintain the factory look is another thing all together!

Anything I may have forgot just ask.


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## JJ_

Great write up, I will never look at the underside or arches in the same way again!


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## sworks16

your pug is amazing underneath, is it just alot of elbow grease or do things get passed a certain point when they won't clean up any more, my 03 car has loads of dirt underneath that i want to try and clean up but it has done 46 ish k and the previous owner neglected it


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## Mr Shiny

more nice work Rich, i love that pug. Top work mate.


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## Brazo

And you think your good at something lol! I've barely started!!


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## Mr Shiny

Rich, i really enjoyed reading your advice, keep up the good work mate because it is truly aewsome, keeps us all posted on any for tips and advive. Cheers.


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## Neil_S

Absolutely stunning guide Rich, very inspiring, your the man!

Painting my calipers with Hammerite smooth is already on the list, I think a good clean of the undercarriage has now made the list as well as painting the rusting parts on the brake discs to finish the calipers off a treat.


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## Mattieuk

Stunning write up is that Rich......Right thats 4 axel stands, Torque wrench, trolley jack, and some cleaning stuff.


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## Alex L

Mattieuk said:


> Stunning write up is that Rich......Right thats 4 axel stands, Torque wrench, trolley jack, and some cleaning stuff.


i was just thinking that, guess what any xmas money i get is going on

amazing article Rich,
while i have no intention of going for Concours i do like the feeling of having everything clean and spotless( although maybe to a much lesser standard, but good enough for the average joe).

Alex


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## Rich

Cheers for the responese guys.

Dont intend to concours the Clio but hope to get it looking like the 306 one day, as you say its nice to know that its just right from top to bottem.


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## Mr Shiny

Fantastic write ups mate, a great help and inspiration mate, have you got any more write ups?


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## Rich

Cheers - That was the only one I had any pics for, dont mind doing some more if you have anything to suggest!


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## Alex L

Rich said:


> Cheers - That was the only one I had any pics for, dont mind doing some more if you have anything to suggest!


i'd like to know a little more about hammerite-ing the brake calipers?

also the brake cleaner spray you have in the photo, do you just spray that on the brakes and disks and all?

Alex


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## Rich

They are really easy to do.

1. Clean up an rust/corrosion etc with a good wire brushing.

2. Clean and Degrease - AG engine and machine cleaner and a tin of Brake Component. This can be sprayed on the calipers, discs hubs etc. It allows braks down the dirt and self dries, leaving everything grease free, so ideal to paint.

3. Mask up bits you dont really want to get paint on, pipe work, bolts/pins that allow the caliper to slide, move/open up/ for changing pads etc. Mask up and avoid painting any rubber seals or the bleed nipples. Taking the pads out makes things easier still.

4. Painting - I used the Smooth finish Hammerite, mixed with some of he thinners which allows it to brush on a bit easier. A variety of Artist brushes in a range of sizes is usefull, this way it is easy to carefully paint what you want. When I did my ex g/f's they where off the car and I used the spray version which was easy and quicker still. Just needed a bit more masking.

5. Allow to dry for about 24 hours before driving.


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## Alex L

cheers Rich,
just got to talk the girlfriend into letting me do it to the Astra now 

Alex


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## Mr Shiny

Rich, could you do us an in deph guide to engine bay cleaning, i know it varies betwween cars etc but i would be interested in a guide for cleaning engine bays. cheers.


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## Wmffra

*Superb*

Thanks for taking the time to put it all down on paper, any chance on making one for scratch removal/paint chips ? ? ? ? ? ?


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## Rich

Im a bit nervous when it comes to chips and wet sanding, who was the guy that did his other halfs escort?

Brazo has already done an engine guide some where I think


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## Mr Shiny

That was Brazo.


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## robertdon777

very good write up, and i thought i was the only mad 205 arch cleaner all those years ago!

Its funny how many similar processes and products i used. I havn,t give them a good clean in about 6 years but its only done 150 miles in that time!

New Years resolution: Get 205 running again!

Rob


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## Brazo

Wmffra said:


> Thanks for taking the time to put it all down on paper, any chance on making one for scratch removal/paint chips ? ? ? ? ? ?


http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=27


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## Mr Shiny

Rich, could you do a couple more guides for us detailers? i found your guide real interesting and helpful. I would like one for engine bays and or interiors. Thanks mate, cheers for your help, from Tom (Mr Shiny)


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## Rich

Meant to start the engine bay one earlier, but my dad side tracked me wth some Photoshop work!

Will sort that one next.


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## Mr Shiny

Cheers Rich, your a star.


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## blr123

Cracking write up Rich  .................when I get a Karcher I'm thinking on getting the angled lance for doing the underside!

Bryan


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## Naddy37

Excellent work there Rich. I also should really get the Karcher out too and tackle the wheel arches. I may do that when I swap the colour of the car from red to black in a few weeks time.


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## Rich

Glad you found it usefull guys.


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## Mattieuk

Rich, As said before a great write up. 

For the weekly wash what process would you recommend to keep the arch's nice and clean? Is there anything you could say spay into the arch area and rinse off?

Cheers

Mattie


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## Rich

During the weekly wash I just use the hose pipe and soapy water and am old mitt atthe same time as doing the wheels.

If for some reason they have got really dirty I spray AG engine and machine cleaner, allow to dwell then follow up with the soapy water and rinse with the hose.

Cheers

Rich


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## Mattieuk

Cheers Rich for the reply.

I need to get a trolly jack. As you know it difficult to get your hand in between the arch and the wheel on a 182, hence i was looking for a easier option.


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## Rich

Full Lock on the front wheels, and old mitt or half a sponge and poke it up there ther best you can at the back .... oh er!!!!

Trolley jack will help you lots.


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## charliecroker

rich mate that is spanking!!!!!!! really want gold calipers on me car but im not proficient enough to do it yet..


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## Jace

A very high quality write up 

I see a few have asked about dressing the arches for every day driving, my days uses Autoglym Autogloss Rinse on his MX-5 arches, which seems to work quite well .

He looks after it quite well, but I'm going to give it "the treatment" for him soon & get it looking good, as I'm sure there plenty of shine to be unearthed.

This pic was taken last year...its not too shabby, but like I say, could be better.


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## Rich

Car looks great Jace. 

I use Autoglym Bumper care to dress my daily driven cars, rubbed well in and bufferd off it does not seem to attract the dirt like Vinyl and Rubber does.

Going top try the Autogloss Rinse on the arches with the next wash then.


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## GlynRS2

Nice work Rich:thumb: 
Seeing properly prepared concours cars is truly inspirational stuff. It is the attention to detail that is amazing.
It is always so much more impressive on an OE car that is driven to a show than a heavily modified show car that has arrived on a trailer.

Glyn


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## blr123

One of these might help: -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4337879968&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1

And a Flexi Lance........I've just got mine so I'll put a couple of pics up but I can tell you that the flexi lance will great for keeping ontop of the wheels...........on most wheels you will be able to rite into the inside with the flexi lance fitted.........although I don't think you would be able to on the Pug Rich 

Bryan


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## blr123

Here you go the Flexi Lance & Extension Pole: -










That's the extension pole, flexi lance and pressure regulator.

And here is the extension pole with the flexi lance attached: -










And ofcourse the Karcher.......my new toy: -










Bryan


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## MARTIN

excelent write up!!that´s a true detailing job


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## Dazzy130/VXR

Amazing mate, reminds of how I use to be, don't seem to get the time these days :devil:


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## Mr Shiny

Rich, what is that yellow stuff underneath your 205 is it waxoyl or underseal? Cheers from Tom :thumb:


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## dino

Excellent guide!!

I have a few 4 day weekends this remaining month so i think i may be going out to buy a trolley jack!


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## Rich

Mr Shiny said:


> Rich, what is that yellow stuff underneath your 205 is it waxoyl or underseal? Cheers from Tom :thumb:


Thats the primer, Pug paint there cars so well!


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## Mr Shiny

Honestly mate?


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## Rich

Seriously, neither my 205 or 306 where painted underneath the spare wheel wheel.

Look at the 306 Pics and you will see grey primer.


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## Arienol

Let me just say: that is a bloody tidy 205!


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## JJ_

what a hoooge difference, the wheel is uber clean.


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## olliecampbell

Thats lovely


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## PTAV

old thread eat your heart out!


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## Chris_4536

Old thread but bloody awesome!


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## Yeti Racing

Quality thread!


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## Streeto

keep this thread alive it's awesome


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## Piratez

Great writing....thanks :thumb:


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## gioprivatemove

really complete write up. good job mate.


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## rsshawn

Rich said:


> If you are planning on showing the vehicle it is worth dressing the inside profile of the tyre and spare wheel if fitted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replace the spare back under the car and re attch the road wheels.


Stick the spare in a bag and it will keep it clean, protect it from corroding more as well as help deflect some water spray.


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