# *First DA Attempt* - Black Leon FR+ DAS6 Pro



## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

Hello guys,

This is my first ever attempt with using a machine polisher, it was all a learning curve which has left me pleased with the following results.

As you would imagine it has left me craving more 'perfect' results if there's such thing.
I have been interested in a lot of videos online from the likes of Junkman, Ammo NYC and have taken their tips into account while attempting my first machine polish.

The products I have used are:

- DAS6 Pro DA Machine Polisher
- Hex Logic 5" Orange & White Pad
- Meguiars 105 Ultra Cut
- Meguiars 205 Ultimate Finish
- Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo
- Meguiars Ultimate Detailer Spray
- Poor boys Natty Paste Wax
- Costco Ultra Plush MF Drying Towels
- 2 Bucket Method.

My vehicle is 2005 Seat Leon FR+ PD150 with 60k Miles on the clock, it's completely standard at the moment but booked into R-Tech for a stage 1 remap which should see it to around 190bhp with around 300lbs torque which I am very excited for.

The body work on the car to start with wasn't too bad, but had prominent swirls with the odd scratch here and there. The bonnet and front bumper are stone chipped so this was something which I knew I just had to improve.
Now the method I was using was mainly from Junkman's videos and the main thing I had in mind was that it was safe and effective, but slow.

So first of all, here is how I started off at 08:30am on crisp October morning, you can see the condensation on the bonnet.



Here's a close up of the contaminated paint with a dull, blurred reflection.



Next it was time to rinse all of the loose dirt off the car with a pressure washer, using the two bucket method next I washed down the car with a JML microfiber washmit with Megs Gold Class shampoo, then out with the chamois and a microfiber to dry it off.



Front end.



Back end.



Now I decided it was time to prep the front of the car for the polisher, so using a fine grade clay bar and a weak solution of water/shampoo I clayed the bonnet, the two wings and the front bumper. I used a thin plastic bag, like the ones you will find in the fruit & veg section of your local supermarket to scan the clayed area with my finger tips to check there was no contamination left and was silky smooth.



Once it was washed, decontaminated with the fine clay bar it was time to quickly wash down the front end again to remove and soap suds from the clay solution and dried to leave this finish.



Once I had prepped the paint ready for the polish it was time to mask up any area's I wanted to keep out of the way of the pads. I have a fly eye tint to my headlights which left me a little worried that the polisher would clip it and lift it, it was fine..







I then started on the bonnet breaking it up into four workable sections, some say it may be too big of an area to work at a time but I just felt more comfortable working this way.

Here you can see the right side has been hit with 3 passes of the Hex Logic orange pad with Megs 105 then finished with 2 passes of the Hex Logic white pad with Megs 205.

The shine has a lot more clarity to it, much more crisp with a deep shine.



I then followed up the other side which left the bonnet looking like this.



Once the bonnet was finished I moved on to the drivers side wing, then followed by the passenger side wing. I used the same technique with 3 passes of the HL orange cutting pad followed by 2 passes of the HL white finishing pad.



Now with just the front bumper to do my plan was to get that finished before I had a quite smoke break and lunch. The condition on the front bumper is quite poor in places and would need a refurb but this is what I looked like before the DAS6 touched it.



Now with the bonnet, wings and bumper down the front end was finished and looking very nice indeed. A deep rich black with mirror reflection I was happy with the results.



I then proceeded to the rear as it was my goal to get both the front, and rear end finished in a days work. I didn't want to rush anything and I were working at a comfortable pace.

The boot was my first target and using the same technique 3x #105 & HL orange pad followed by 2x #205 & HL white pad it left the boot looking like this. I found if I opened the boot the pressure of the boot trying to lift was ideal on the machine polisher and kept the boot up high so I didn't have to cripple my back bending down.



Now day light was disappearing fast at this point as it was around 4:00pm and these late October nights are dark early I had to move onto the rear bumper and save the roof and the doors for another day.

Here is how the bumper turned out with the same technique used on all the other panels, not pad at all.



At this point I knew I had to seal it all in so it was time to wax it, I used this stuff applied with a new foam applicator pad and layered one thin coating waited 25 minutes to cure, removed it with clean MF towels then reapplied for a second coating.



By this point it was 17:30pm and dark so it was time to finish off by dressing the tires, splitter and cleaning the windows and wrapping up for the day.
On an inspection the areas remain swirl free and look beautiful when the light bounces off.

To summarise I've found the orange pad and #205 didn't remove scratches and only removed swirls so I think I may need to find a slightly more abrasive polish or pad unless anybody thinks any different?

I've also learned that a day of machine polishing can leave you crippled the next day due to squatting all day so I may need to invest in a knee pad lol.
Here are a couple of pictures taken the day after when we went to the forest, the lighting doesn't quite capture how nice the shine looks but the scenery is nice.

The sides and the roof will have to be done on another day off work, possibly Tuesday.









Thanks for reading and if you have any feedback then please, it would be appreciated.


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## corno (Jul 8, 2013)

Nice job!


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## SystemClenz (Oct 31, 2008)

Looks like you worked hard there mate, and certainly looks glossier now :thumb:


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## jack-c (Oct 21, 2012)

Looks great


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## Bill58 (Jul 5, 2010)

That's a great job.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

SystemClenz said:


> Looks like you worked hard there mate, and certainly looks glossier now :thumb:


Thanks mate, It was definitely hard work with me squatting for up to nine hours haha :buffer:

I mean I have done some time in the forces and know too well about what sore legs are but Jesus! the next day haha

It just shows when you're in the zone and concentrating, and isometric exercise is hardly noticeable lol :lol:


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## SystemClenz (Oct 31, 2008)

Haha, this is why us who do it full time have various stools, creepers and thick mats to kneel on, search creeper and find my post about one, a great price and very comfy


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

DlllonJ said:


> ... To summarise I've found the orange pad and #205 didn't remove scratches and only removed swirls so I think I may need to find a slightly more abrasive polish or pad unless anybody thinks any different?


I think COMPLETELY different for a few reasons.

First, you were working WAY TOO LARGE of an area if you broke that hood up into 4 sections, using a DAS 6 Pro. I can easily see you moving the polisher way too fast in an area that size and thus, not allowing the polisher to do as much work as it can per pass. Add to that, M105 is some abrasive stuff. I've fixed scratches in gel coat with that stuff so it is more than capable of getting the job done, provided your scratches are NOT really deep or through the clear coat and into the paint (which are scratches that you LEAVE ALONE). If your fingernail catches on the scratch, it is far past your ability.

You stated that you did 3 passes with M105. You're using a DAS 6 *orbital* polisher. It IS NOT going to fix any major damage in any way fast. It may take you 20 passes using a PERFECT technique before all of that damage comes out of the paint because of how docile that polisher is. As a novice, your technique is not remotely close to being perfect so getting a bigger hammer is not going to do you any good. I explain all this in the first video of my 5-part machine polishing videos. You are thinking exactly as a novice usually does when doing this for the first time and I explained why you shouldn't be thinking this way in that video.

Another thing that you did that is typical of a novice is that you got all motivated to do this and completely ignored the one piece of advice that I said you should do BEFORE doing the entire car. I stated that you should get ONE, 1.5' area perfect BEFORE doing the entire car. *If you can't make one section on the paint perfect, then you have no reason to expect ANY part of your paint will end up perfect no matter what product you chose to use.* With the remaining damage in the paint, you are having one of two issues. Either the car is too far jacked up to make perfect (which does not seem to be the issue in your case), or YOUR technique is flawed. I'm putting all my chips on the latter and the size area that you chose to work validates my findings. What you have now done is taught yourself a technique that is not as effective as a perfect technique would have been. Watching a video once on how to do this an actually doing it is two different things. That's why you need to perfect your technique in one spot FIRST to ensure that you are going to be effective on the rest of the car.

What you need to do is go watch my videos on machine polishing again and this time, take notes. The few things that I have just mentioned are just the tip of the iceberg of stuff you missed. That's why my videos are soooo long. I cover every base in vivid detail so that anyone watching them will be equipped with what they need to be successful at this. If you take ALL of the information that I give in my videos and incorporate it into your venture, you will become a lot more successful with your polishing. Also, mixing my technique with another technique is a recipe for failure. There are multiple techniques that work when performing paint correction but mixing any two will most likely result in failure.

So per your request, that's my opinion. If I were you, I would watch those videos again and start with the polishing again. This time, do as I suggested in my videos because once you develop a bad technique, it will be hard to tech yourself a SOLID technique because unlearning bad habits is hard to do. You have witnessed what you can do thus far but guess how much better I could make your paint look if I followed right behind you using what you already have and a perfect technique.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

Ok that’s a fair point, I think next time I will use my painters tape and divide the panel up into workable areas at a time. The speed at which I moved the polisher I would like to think was slow enough as I downloaded Copacabana and used the music in order to dictate the speed of movement. If the #105 is abrasive enough then I shall stick with it for the time being.

So the DAS6 is an orbital polisher and docile? I think when conducting my detail I may have been slightly nervous as I didn’t really know how many passes of cut I should be doing before too much clear coat is taken off. I think that combined with a smaller working area and the confidence I have created regarding how safe the cutting combo is, this should help me gain the more flawless results I am after.

Can you please advise me on roughly how often I should reapply polish to the pad? 4 Pea sized drops to prime the pad at the start of the detail then from then on 3. I would for example make 3 pea sized drops, run two passes, buff off residue then a quick squirt of Megs UD then run another two passes. Would I then need to add another 3 pea size drops to the pad or should there be enough polish in the pad in order to work effectively.

Before I conducted this detail I watched the full series step 1 to 5, then watched it again and took notes while pausing and re-reading them. So from the feedback you have given me I will endeavour my best to:

- Work in smaller areas
- To remember the DAS6 is docile and can take many passes of cut before ‘perfection’ is achieved.

Thanks a lot for all of the feedback it is greatly appreciated and taken on the chin!


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

DlllonJ said:


> Ok that's a fair point, I think next time I will use my painters tape and divide the panel up into workable areas at a time. The speed at which I moved the polisher I would like to think was slow enough as I downloaded Copacabana and used the music in order to dictate the speed of movement. If the #105 is abrasive enough then I shall stick with it for the time being.


Let's say that your speed of movement was perfect. If you used that Barry Manilow sample and moved your polisher to it, you did well. But here's the problem. The sections that you worked were way too large for only 3-pea sized drops of polish/compound. What that means is that you were basically buffing the paint with a dry pad at a certain times. This of course not only affects your results but it also ADDS damage to your paint. This again goes back to my technique. EVERY PART of my technique is EQUALLY important. If you change ANY PART of the technique, you have at that point negatively impacted your results. Again, I stress this in my videos. Those videos are like a college course in paint correction, compressed into two hours. It is very easy to miss a ton of information when watching them because as a novice, you don't realize just how important everything that I say actually is.



DlllonJ said:


> So the DAS6 is an orbital polisher and docile? I think when conducting my detail I may have been slightly nervous as I didn't really know how many passes of cut I should be doing before too much clear coat is taken off. I think that combined with a smaller working area and the confidence I have created regarding how safe the cutting combo is, this should help me gain the more flawless results I am after.


Yes, the DAS 6 is an orbital polisher (not a DA as some people mistakenly refer to it), and thus is NOT going to remove a lot of clear coat with any kind of speed. That's why I show people how to use one and is why it takes so long to fix a lot of damage. On the other hand, ONE PASS with a rotary and every stitch of damage on your paint could be eliminated. At the same time, one pause with a rotary at the wrong speed could completely wipe the paint off your car or melt/warp a bumper. That's massive power and major danger in the wrong hands.



DlllonJ said:


> Can you please advise me on roughly how often I should reapply polish to the pad? 4 Pea sized drops to prime the pad at the start of the detail then from then on 3. I would for example make 3 pea sized drops, run two passes, buff off residue then a quick squirt of Megs UD then run another two passes. Would I then need to add another 3 pea size drops to the pad or should there be enough polish in the pad in order to work effectively.


You're going to watch the videos again and I cover this in them also so I will let you see and hear that for yourself.



DlllonJ said:


> Before I conducted this detail I watched the full series step 1 to 5, then watched it again and took notes while pausing and re-reading them. So from the feedback you have given me I will endeavour my best to:
> 
> - Work in smaller areas
> - To remember the DAS6 is docile and can take many passes of cut before 'perfection' is achieved.
> ...


Some people are too sensitive for my teaching style. They take it personal when all I'm doing is shooting them the straight, cold and hard facts. No dressing it up, just the straight scoop so that they will hear me loud and clear. I think that it helps them by concentrating on exactly where they need to work so that they can get faster results. That's how I teach. It's not for everyone but then neither is the Marine Corps, where I learned my teaching style. If you can take it on the chin, you will learn a ton and be a better detailer for it.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

Junkman2008 said:


> Some people are too sensitive for my teaching style. They take it personal when all I'm doing is shooting them the straight, cold and hard facts. No dressing it up, just the straight scoop so that they will hear me loud and clear. I think that it helps them by concentrating on exactly where they need to work so that they can get faster results. That's how I teach. It's not for everyone but then neither is the Marine Corps, where I learned my teaching style. If you can take it on the chin, you will learn a ton and be a better detailer for it.


Well I done some time in the British Army with the Parachute Regiment so I'm used to that type of teaching style and works well for me.


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

DlllonJ said:


> Well I done some time in the British Army with the Parachute Regiment so I'm used to that type of teaching style and works well for me.


Good to hear. You'll do just fine. :thumb:


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## -kane- (Dec 1, 2011)

looks ace


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## Parmi69 (Oct 4, 2014)

nice job for 1st time


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

Thank you very much, hopefully it's good sign of things to come.


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## gally (May 25, 2008)

You've done a stunning job mate. Think yourself lucky, you've just been given advice from a master. 

Remember though, it's not always about perfection on your own car, you might have to polish it again at some point. 

Don't ignore some glazes that contain light fillers after polishing. They may help preserve your paint.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

gally said:


> You've done a stunning job mate. Think yourself lucky, you've just been given advice from a master.
> 
> Remember though, it's not always about perfection on your own car, you might have to polish it again at some point.
> 
> Don't ignore some glazes that contain light fillers after polishing. They may help preserve your paint.


Yes I've been thinking, the scratches which are left are barely visible and as a novice perhaps It's a good idea to use some glazes to get me that wet finish I'm after.

I've been looking at Poorboys Black hole, can you recommend any others?


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## camerashy (Feb 9, 2014)

Prima Amigo glaze is suppose to be very good and even better when applied with a DA


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## gally (May 25, 2008)

Amino is by far the slickest glaze on the market. It doesn't fill a lot imo. 50cal's cover up seems very good from initial testing. 

Amino definitely darkens the paint as proven on DW. I think it's best suited to cars that have been machine polished opposed to glazes like backhoe, EZ creme glaze etc which suited swirled cars.


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## BUGLASS21 (Oct 11, 2012)

Tidy Looking MK1 :thumb:


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## PyRo (Oct 25, 2014)

To be fair its a good fair effort for the first time. I persevered with a Megs 220 mk 1before moving to a flex 3401. Good right up and some great advice from an accomplished craftsman.
PyRo


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

Yesterday I was lucky to have a day off work so I managed to get the passenger doors & rear quarters done.

I took plenty of pictures throughout showing my progress so these will all be uploaded at some point tonight or tomorrow morning so keep an eye out if you would like to see the results.

Thanks DW.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

So again here I am 8:30am on a cold November morning this time.

My mission was to start on the passenger side of the car.



And the side I shall be working on.



A Quick wash down, two bucket method and a rinse and dry left it looking like this.



Next it wash time to break out the fine grade clay bar, don't be alarmed the solution inside the Hot Rims is a dilution of Gold Class Shampoo and water.



Here's what the passenger side looked like post clay.



Now I tried to get a few pictures of the paint, the lighting, camera and technique was not on point to get a good enough picture but here's a couple to give you an idea of the swirls.

Swirl #1.



Swirl #2.



Next it was time to tape up to give me an idea of the area's I will be working on. After Junkmans advice I worked in a smaller area and the following picture if you divide the right hand side of the tape into two equal spaces that was the size of the area I would be working at a time.



After around 5 passes of an orange HL cutting pad combined with #105 then followed by around 3 passes of a white HL finishing pad it left the rear quarter looking like this. If you can see the scratch line running vertical to my reflection ignore it because it doesn't exist and I have no idea what it is lol.



Now it was time to move onto the rear passenger side door, taping up into three workable sections.



Now working in the same format as on the rear quarter, I proceeded to complete both doors. I apologise for the skip in pictures I didn't seem to get any of the front passenger side doors.

Anyway after another hard days work these were the results I came out with, this was sealed with a layer of Poorboys Natty Paste wax.

Deep Rich Shine.



To summarise from my second day/attempt with a DA:

- Working in smaller areas definitely pays off!
- Listen to the Junkman

Please anymore advice/criticism will be taken kindly.

Thanks DW.


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## gally (May 25, 2008)

Excellent work chap. So nice to see someone take advice on board and go with it and practice. 

One thing I would say is do you have any other waxes sealants? You sound like you don't mind getting out and waxing but most try to avoid touching the paint during winter and use a strong wax/sealant. Then keep washing throughout Winter. 

What polish were you using again? 

I've recently purchased another 
black car after saying years ago I would never do it again. I'm very excited to own one again. No other colour can be as rewarding to a "detailer".


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

That looks a TON better to me. Now you know why I'm such a stickler when it comes to technique and am so passionate that novices follow my technique (or another solid technique that works). When you master a solid technique, you won't get caught up in the polish debate because no matter what quality product you use, they ALL work equally. Names mean nothing to a man with a solid technique.

Technique trumps product 24/7/365.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

gally said:


> Excellent work chap. So nice to see someone take advice on board and go with it and practice.
> 
> One thing I would say is do you have any other waxes sealants? You sound like you don't mind getting out and waxing but most try to avoid touching the paint during winter and use a strong wax/sealant. Then keep washing throughout Winter.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much, the only Wax/sealant I have at the moment is Poorboys stuff, I've never experienced with sealants before but I'm sure this will come very soon.

The car will not be touched over winter apart from a quick wash once a week, however as I've only just got this machine polisher obviously I'm just trying to get each section done before we go into the big freeze. Only the driver side & roof left to do now and luckily I have a weeks annual holiday from work next week so that will be my 'time to shine'.

The polish I was using were:

- Meguiars #105 Ultra Cut Compound
- Meguiars #205 Ultra Finish Polish

I also have a big litre bottle of AG Super Resin polish from when I worked by hand.

I haven't thought about using this with my DA however maybe because it's a polish designed to be used by hand it may have more fillers in it and act like a glaze?

I'll have to see in the future.

Good Choice with the black car! My previous car I have a Seat Leon Cupra R 225 which was a very quick car, but because it was silver I could never get it to pop like those darker coloured cars. Now I feel blessed that I have a car colour which can really multiply the results I were getting from my silver car.



Junkman2008 said:


> That looks a TON better to me. Now you know why I'm such a stickler when it comes to technique and am so passionate that novices follow my technique (or another solid technique that works). When you master a solid technique, you won't get caught up in the polish debate because no matter what quality product you use, they ALL work equally. Names mean nothing to a man with a solid technique.
> 
> Technique trumps product 24/7/365.


Thanks Junkman! I really appreciate all the advice and your videos are second to none. Hopefully we'll see some more coming from your YouTube very soon.


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

DlllonJ said:


> ... I also have a big litre bottle of AG Super Resin polish from when I worked by hand.
> 
> I haven't thought about using this with my DA however maybe because it's a polish designed to be used by hand it may have more fillers in it and act like a glaze?


I don't know anything about that product but I will say this. M205 is a polish. M105 is a polish also, it's just a much harsher polish and is thus referred to as a compound. All very harsh polishes are referred to as compounds. *Any product that causes leveling of your clear coat is some type of polish.* Glazes contain NO polish and are nothing but fillers. They don't level anything. That's the difference between a compound, polish and a glaze. If it is a polish or compound, it will work a THOUSAND times better when used with a machine.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

Ok I get it Junkman.

Check out my Orange HL pad, does this need to be thrown away now? I can't imagine my paint liking that.


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## GazGJ (Oct 15, 2014)

I think Super Resin Polish is a hybrid glaze product. It has a VERY mild abrasive formula and has fillers. I would use it with a DA.


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

DlllonJ said:


> Ok I get it Junkman.
> 
> Check out my Orange HL pad, does this need to be thrown away now? I can't imagine my paint liking that.


That pads looks as if you used it to buff around sharp edges. Was that the case? Looks as if you used too much pressure also. It won't damage your paint but it clearly is not going to be as effective.



GazGJ said:


> I think Super Resin Polish is a hybrid glaze product. It has a VERY mild abrasive formula and has fillers. I would use it with a DA.


Per the manufacturer's website (so we don't have to guess at what it is):

_Super Resin Polish is suitable for all types and colours of paint. Light scratches, swirls, stains and scuffs vanish leaving your paintwork like new. It restores gloss to dull surfaces, is simple to use and will never dry hard or become difficult to remove.

Super Resin Polish can be used on both new and old paintwork, it doesn't have to be in poor condition. A light coating will improve the condition of any vehicle._

With that said, there is nothing in that statement to make me believe that it is any kind of glaze. Like I said before, a glaze has no cutting properties, it just fills. This product is clearly a polish of some sort.


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## MagpieRH (May 27, 2014)

DlllonJ said:


> If you can see the scratch line running vertical to my reflection ignore it because it doesn't exist and I have no idea what it is lol.


Looks to me like your earphones or some other kind of cable coming from the phone  If you look at the bottom of your coat, it's pulling that up.

Nice job though, amazing how those couple of little tweaks based on the advice on Junkman has had such a profound effect


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

Junkman2008 said:


> That pads looks as if you used it to buff around sharp edges. Was that the case? Looks as if you used too much pressure also. It won't damage your paint but it clearly is not going to be as effective.
> 
> Per the manufacturer's website (so we don't have to guess at what it is):
> 
> ...


Possibly when I moved onto the doors, I thought it may be a good idea to open the doors while polishing them so perhaps the rotations catching on the door frame may have 'shaved' it off.

I don't think I applied excessive pressure as I was consciously making the effort not to as it eliminates the effectiveness of the pad. But I'm by far no expert as of now so I may well have been.

Perhaps the AG super resin polish, because it's manufactured to be used by hand has additional filling properties?


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

MagpieRH said:


> Looks to me like your earphones or some other kind of cable coming from the phone  If you look at the bottom of your coat, it's pulling that up.
> 
> Nice job though, amazing how those couple of little tweaks based on the advice on Junkman has had such a profound effect


Good shout it was my headphones, I was listening to music while polishing.

:lol:


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## MagpieRH (May 27, 2014)

DlllonJ said:


> Good shout it was my headphones, I was listening to music while polishing.
> 
> :lol:


Nailed it. 

As for SRP, from what I've read on here (from AG themselves and others), it has very, very mild cut and has fillers to hide the swirls. It's not massively filler-heavy, so there are other products that will hide deeper swirls more easily, but SRP can apparently be layered to achieve a more effective finish. The fact it has fillers is why they recommend sealing it with a wax or sealant otherwise it gradually wears off over a month or two :thumb:


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## gally (May 25, 2008)

Well be careful with more polishing. Only so much clearcoat a car has. 

I say this as people see Pros polishing everyday, you can't do that on your own car so we'll worth looking at Prima Amigo after you've done your correction work. Via DA on a black or blue hex pad. Then get it sealed in with a solid LSP for winter. 

If you do any miles nattys will wear off quickly during winter. A solid simple sealant like CarPro reload 2014 or similar would be my suggestion.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

MagpieRH said:


> Nailed it.
> 
> As for SRP, from what I've read on here (from AG themselves and others), it has very, very mild cut and has fillers to hide the swirls. It's not massively filler-heavy, so there are other products that will hide deeper swirls more easily, but SRP can apparently be layered to achieve a more effective finish. The fact it has fillers is why they recommend sealing it with a wax or sealant otherwise it gradually wears off over a month or two :thumb:


I wonder how a pannel would turn out with the method I used, 5 passes of #105 on an orange HL pad followed by 3 passes of AG Super Resin Polish on a white HL pad as oposed to 3 passes of #205. I am imagining that the SRP will fill in the paint as well as finishing it but I know #205 is from a professional line whereas the SRP is more consumer.



gally said:


> Well be careful with more polishing. Only so much clearcoat a car has.
> 
> I say this as people see Pros polishing everyday, you can't do that on your own car so we'll worth looking at Prima Amigo after you've done your correction work. Via DA on a black or blue hex pad. Then get it sealed in with a solid LSP for winter.
> 
> If you do any miles nattys will wear off quickly during winter. A solid simple sealant like CarPro reload 2014 or similar would be my suggestion.


I Think at this stage I'm happy with how Nattys seals the finish, I do 15 miles to and from work a day which isn't many and I've found Nattys to last me a good 3 months in the past.

I will definitely be looking at Prima Amigo though, I think a sweet glaze is just what I need to finish off the car to give it that wet look it desperately needs.


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## gally (May 25, 2008)

I agree. 

Srp won't work after 105. You need 205 or another finishing polish.


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## 66Rob (Sep 25, 2007)

Good job, and great car choice. .


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

gally said:


> I agree.
> 
> Srp won't work after 105. You need 205 or another finishing polish.


Is there any specific reason as to why you think that?



66Rob said:


> Good job, and great car choice. .


Thank you, yes It's my second Leon I've had an love it. It's booked in for a Stage 1 remap on the 18th November as well so it should totally transform it. So excited!


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## gally (May 25, 2008)

Srp isn't a finishing polish and you may be hiding serious defects from compounding.


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## Junkman2008 (May 8, 2009)

MagpieRH said:


> Nailed it.
> 
> As for SRP, from what I've read on here (from AG themselves and others), it has very, very mild cut and has fillers to hide the swirls.


If that is true, it sounds like a typical OTC product. I keep those out of my arsenal.



gally said:


> Well be careful with more polishing. Only so much clearcoat a car has.


With the polisher that he is using, it will be a LONG time before he has to worry about anything like that. that polisher is just not powerful enough. Although it makes no sense to keep compounding your paint to death every few months because you don't know how to properly wash and maintain your paint, something like M205 is NOT going to remotely wipe off any significant clear coat, even after a ton of uses. The deal is, you want to properly maintain your paint so that you don't have to constantly polish it every time you look up. If that's the case, you're doing something terribly wrong.

A compound like M105 should be a "ONCE in the life of your paint" experience. Once you have removed ALL the damage from your paint, you should NEVER have to use M105 again. If you do, you or someone is doing something very wrong when they are touching your paint.



DlllonJ said:


> I wonder how a pannel would turn out with the method I used, 5 passes of #105 on an orange HL pad followed by 3 passes of AG Super Resin Polish on a white HL pad as oposed to 3 passes of #205.


Like crap and here's why.

Compounds and polishes are engineered to do what they do *within the family of products that they originate.* In other words, M105 was engineered to do X amount of work and to leave behind X amount of damage. M205 was engineered to pickup where M105 left off and bring the paint to a perfect finish. *This is how ALL professional lines work.* If you go back to when they were first released, they were introduced to the market TOGETHER. That is NOT a coincidence, that was by DESIGN. They were engineered to be used together to achieve the best looking shine that you can get from those two products.

Since you are NOT a chemical engineer, you have no clue where M105 stops and where another polish from a foreign family starts. That foreign product may be designed to start much later than where M205 starts and thus, will cause you to have to do more work to clean up what M105 leaves behind. OR, it may start much sooner than M205 and thus, leave your paint looking dull because it was too aggressive of a polish. Rule of thumb:

*Never mix polishes and compounds from different families, unless you are a serious professional at this.*

As a novice, the only thing you are doing is making things harder on yourself by trying to get way more complicated than you should. The engineers have figured this stuff out for you. They have tested it, worked it from nose bleed to canker sores and after all that, put it in a bottle for you to use without over-thinking it. *Let their knowledge work for you!* Don't get cute and try to come up with exotic potions, use products from the same family and watch your shine develop.

That's nothing but good ol' common sense.


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## DlllonJ (Oct 16, 2014)

Junkman2008 said:


> *Never mix polishes and compounds from different families, unless you are a serious professional at this.*


Ok sure i'll take that on board!


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## seat_Jay (Dec 11, 2015)

Thanks for the right up, I watched the Junkman Video's yesterday so it was interesting seeing someone have their first go and get advice from JM as they went along. I'll be taking on my first practive run on our Polo before I try on our Altea.

Looks like you got some nice results!


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## RealR0cknr0lla (Jan 17, 2016)

well done to you - looks a really nice job car looks well shiny :thumb:


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