# Paint drying problems



## hot_anvil (Jan 26, 2015)

Hi,

This isn't exactly a car or detailing issue but I'm having trouble with spray painting steel fabrications. The paint never seems to dry fully. You can’t really handle painted items even after a couple of days. Items that have been allowed to hang for several weeks don’t seem to be fully dry - if they are stacked then they end up sticking together. Obviously temperature has something to do with it because they dry faster in summer than winter (although we have the spray shed heated). But in either case they will stick together or be ruined by draping cloth over them etc.

I'm not an expert sprayer by any means. However I don't think I'm putting the paint on too heavily - no runs etc. And I tend to build it up over a few passes. I've been putting up with this drying issue for a while now and I would really like to get to the bottom of it.
I use a Clarke Spray Gun - SP18C.
The paint is the fast air drying 222 from Cromadex/Akzonobel.
What am I doing wrong? Should I move to 2-pack paint? Different gun? Air pressure?

Any help much appreciated.


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## Aaran (Sep 18, 2007)

go to a 2k paint. it will actully go hard then due to the chemical reaction.

for industrial stuff selemix do 2k paint at around £18 per lt and you just need hardener for it it also drys hella fast to


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

speak with the maker - i suspect its too cold to dry

2k would likely harden faster if you have the breathing gear, still needs a warmish place to paint and keep the items though


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## supernova-dw (Apr 26, 2014)

As above 2K is the answer! The difference between 1K and 2K is night and day, the 2K is so much better the only downfall being it's more toxic however good ventilation and a decent mask and you'll be fine.


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

supernova-dw said:


> it's more toxic however good ventilation and a decent mask and you'll be fine.


if this is a buisness and with other workers he might want to look into it in more depth , you cant be venting the fumes out of a fire door

not saying it doesnt happen...just wouldnt want health n saftey coming down on you


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## supernova-dw (Apr 26, 2014)

steveo3002 said:


> if this is a buisness and with other workers he might want to look into it in more depth , you cant be venting the fumes out of a fire door
> 
> not saying it doesnt happen...just wouldnt want health n saftey coming down on you


Sorry bit out of touch with UK health and safety as it's super relaxed here, spray outside under a open sided carport year round, the average temperature of 30 degrees helps lol.


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## xJay1337 (Jul 20, 2012)

2K needs full body suit and separate air supply.


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## mr paint (Jul 11, 2009)

why would 2k be better? 

If its due to low panel temps and too heavy coats ..switching to 2k would make it worse ! solvent pop and milkyness and even not cure 



I would advise speaking to your paint rep sounds like an enamel your using and this will take forever to dry in cold conditions 

Remember when people talk about temp it panel temp not air temp ...people get this part wrong so if its 20 degrees and takes 16 hrs to dry .... metal holds the cold so if your 10 degrees will take a couple of days 


Solvents will shut down under 5 degrees !


Read the tds for the paint your using ....if its heavy thin it out a little and use a smaller fluid tip /needle to break it down more ...stacking solvents is the biggest killer for drying and most other issued 

spray first coat med allow 20mins + then put cover coat on job done !


I tried some cromadex epoxy primer one word was Sh*te would never use again !


Hope this helps 

Tommy


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## mr paint (Jul 11, 2009)

even your products ... if its a 25ltr drum that sits on the floor take the amount you need and stick it in the cup and fire it on the heater without the thinners added ! 

this will make it flow better and lighter coats = quicker drying times


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