# Haunted by holograms, video included



## woody007 (Feb 14, 2011)

Hello.

I'm having difficulty removing holograms from my cars and I need help. On both cars they remain most obvious on the doors.

Below I've noted the product and technique used, any help would be amazing.

*Video*
_Holograms_





_50/50_





*Products*
Argos DA
5.5" backing pad
Chemical Guys Hex Pads (2 x white, black and green)
Scholl S17+
Menzerna 3800
IPA spray
New BOA M/F towels 
New Meguiars M/F cloths

Before each car was corrected I followed this process; snow foam, two bucket wash, soft clay, iron x, tardis, wash, dry and IPA.

Panels were wiped with IPA in between passes. Cars have been rewashed since correction.

Before starting out I watched loads of guides on Youtube including all of Junkman's videos.

*Technique on Porsche (grey)*
Full prep, green pad with S17+ and refined down on white pad with Menzerna 3800.

Removed a hell of a lot of marks and swirls, looks amazing however both doors have slight marring / holograms present. Very slight compared to the Toyota.

*Technique on Toyota (black)*
Full prep, white pad with Menzerna 3800 to correct and a couple of passes with 3800 on a black pad.

This car was in really bad shape. The wife had it washed at various hand / machine wash places and the paint was very badly swirled.

Whilst I'm happy with the level of correction using the above technique, there's noticeable holograms on the side of the car. Really annoying!

*DA Technique*
3 spots on the pad, spread onto the car whilst DA is off then slowly worked in at a speed of 3.

Door was split into 4 smaller sections. Slow passes at 3 then worked up to 5/6 for a couple of slow passes.

I thought it could be my technique so I IPA'd the other door and split it into 4 sections. On each section I used a different technique; working product in at a slow speed, working it in at a higher speed, one building up the speed, working the product longer/shorter yet the holograms still remain.

Can anyone critic my process and provide any insight on where I'm going wrong?

Thanks


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Ok so right off the back, they are not machine holograms if you are using a random orbital machine. Also, the way I see the marks on the Yaris video, it looks like microfibre marring not hologramming. 

So, if you have washed the cars since machining them its one of two things, microfibre marring from your wipedowns or marring added during washing and drying. 

Toyotas are usually soft and Porsches are often quite sticky and temperamental. My advice, loose the IPA. It is incredibly poorly lubricated and only enhances the issues caused from microfibres. Get a quality naphtha based panel wipe, I recommend spies hecker 7010. This will help a lot. And buy some carpro essence. Use the panel wipe after your polishing stage to make sure you have removed the marks you wanted to, leaving only some polishing haze. Then refine with essence and don't panel wipe afterwards. Finish a couple of panels before you even buff off the essence, it works wonders on tricky paints


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## woody007 (Feb 14, 2011)

Hi Matt

Thanks for the reply. 

I used the same technique on all the other body panels on both cars. As today has been bright and sunny I managed to have a good look to determine what requires additional work. 

On the Porsche for example, there's only light marring on the doors. Bonnet and boot look good. Would I see microfibre marring on each panel? 

Thanks for the tips on technique and product. I can grab the Carpro from my local detailing shop, can't find any panel wipe less than 5L though (Metalflake). Might try a few body shops over the weekend. 

Thanks


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

woody007 said:


> Hi Matt
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> ...


Not necessarily, vertical panels mean you may "scrub" a bit more due to the angle, I see it all the time with enthusiasts who come to me for training. Bonnets and boots are usually the easiest panels, roofs cause people to stretch and the machining is less effective, and the lowers are usually treated with a slightly heavier hand using and after machining. 
Even we had it last week on a Range Rover that just didn't want to play. A simple adjustment in technique and product, job done

Seriously, loose the IPA. Job one. Then address technique and products


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## woody007 (Feb 14, 2011)

Cheers buddy, really appreciate the advice. 

In terms of technique, will a slow pass to spread the product and a couple more at higher speeds work the Essense correctly? I know some finishing polishes require a few minutes to break down?

I'll have another bash and let you know how I get on. 

Thanks.


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

woody007 said:


> Cheers buddy, really appreciate the advice.
> 
> In terms of technique, will a slow pass to spread the product and a couple more at higher speeds work the Essense correctly? I know some finishing polishes require a few minutes to break down?
> 
> ...


Light pressure and a good few passes at speed 5, slow arm movements. Its an incredible product. Nothing to elaborate or extended is needed. A couple minutes is more than enough


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## woody007 (Feb 14, 2011)

Thank you  weather looks promising this weekend too for a spot of cleaning. Enjoy.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

One thing which may have been exasperated by IPA is wiping down between sets is you will be removing the polishing oils each time and so exposing the paint to less and less lubrication


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## JamesRS5 (Oct 8, 2014)

Are you removing the residue from the pad between sets? You may be inducing marks with a clogged pad.


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## woody007 (Feb 14, 2011)

Thanks all

My Essence arrived today and I did a quick pass on the door with the heavy holograms. Great weather to see any defects too. It's a great product, so easy to work with and provides a great Shine. 

I used it with a white hex logic pad and whilst it removed the hologram it didn't really touch the swirls.

So, step to to a green pad or shall I use Menzerna final finish and refine with Essence? I saw good results with Menz on a white pad on the soft Toyota paint. 

Thanks


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## woody007 (Feb 14, 2011)

Hey all

Thought I'd update now I've managed to have another go at the Yaris.

Thanks stangalang, the Essense worked a treat. So easy to use. After trying a few different combinations I found that Scholl S17 on a green pad followed by Essense on a white provided great results. Didn't touch anything with IPA as it marred the paint. A quick spray of wax seemed to work.

Here's a video, excuse the finger prints, needed a quick tidy up. Plus I ran out of blue tape!






I did have one question though, I tried applying a coat of Fusso onto the panel using a soft foam applicator and removing using the same BOA towel. But this process seemed to introduce swirls onto the paint. In addition, whilst it wiped off easily i couldn't buff to a glass finish. It seemed that there was a light wax coating on top. Almost like it was smearing.

In the end I just left Essence do its work.

I did apply the Fusso in direct sunlight to a hot panel. Left for a few mins to test. Is it worth reapplying when colder?

Thanks


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## FallenAngel (Oct 24, 2015)

Fusso can be very tricky to buff out completly, I had more than few issues with it leaving the wax holograms behind. Few advices should take care of it:
If you get wax holograma or gassing out from fusso you applied too much
Never apply it in direct sun. Work panel by panel, and as soon you finish waxing next panel buff of the previous one. 
After you buff it all off, use plush towel and do a final wipe down ( after few hours idealy). Last resort is to live with then for the next week unitl fusso is fully cured, and then wash the car as normal and they will be gone. Have fun :thumb:


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## woody007 (Feb 14, 2011)

Thanks for the tips. I coated the door quite heavily on a hot panel in direct heat, so I'm not doing myself and favours. I didn't go any further with the Fusso but I'll give it another coat using the tips you provided.


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