# AVA P80 Blowing fuses?



## Jonny (May 27, 2006)

Hey Folks, 

A relative recently purchased an AVA P80 pressure washer and it seems to be constantly blowing fuses. Has anyone else came across this problem with theirs?


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

My p60 had this problem. Ava replaced it without any argument. The new one has been ok but I do hold the trigger and purge any airlock and keep it pulled while turning on the machine. So far so good.


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## Jonny (May 27, 2006)

Zurdo666 said:


> My p60 had this problem. Ava replaced it without any argument. The new one has been ok but I do hold the trigger and purge any airlock and keep it pulled while turning on the machine. So far so good.


His P80 is going through 1 - 2 fuses every time he uses it. He hasn't had any joy sorting it so far and is pretty ****ed for an expensive machine.


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## ridders66 (May 24, 2019)

Jonny said:


> His P80 is going through 1 - 2 fuses every time he uses it. He hasn't had any joy sorting it so far and is pretty ****ed for an expensive machine.


It sounds like there could be a fault with the capacitor.


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## KojakLives (Apr 27, 2009)

Jonny said:


> Hey Folks,
> 
> A relative recently purchased an AVA P80 pressure washer and it seems to be constantly blowing fuses. Has anyone else came across this problem with theirs?


I've seen more than one person mention this issue about the P80, but trying to isolate the cause of it can be tricky. You don't mention how this person connects it to the socket (e.g. is it fully unwound extension reel). I would test it first by attaching it directly to a socket either with a built in RCD or a plug-through RCD adaptor with nothing else in that vicinity drawing a load (e.g. washing machine/dishwasher/kettle/etc., and assuming the hob/cooker is on it's own mains ring). Otherwise, contact AVA for further assistance. As others have mentioned, it might have a duff capacitor that not's smoothing out the surge in current when it's being started. Purging any air out of the system before turning it on is also a good general advice for any pressure washer.


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## Tender84 (May 3, 2021)

Mine blows the fuse on initial startup unless I hold the trigger while turning it on, may be worth a try? I’m guessing the initial pressurising draws more current


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## ridders66 (May 24, 2019)

Tender84 said:


> Mine blows the fuse on initial startup unless I hold the trigger while turning it on, may be worth a try? I'm guessing the initial pressurising draws more current


As I said above, that certainly points to a capacitor fault. It sounds like the machine needs a larger capacitor. It's not unknown for some machines to require a larger one. You're not running it on an extension lead are you?


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## GC#65 (Nov 8, 2014)

Have a read about what Ava say about UK electricity supply and what they recommend.

https://avastore.co.uk/product/ava-...MI9uCZu8mV9wIVV4BQBh0ZtgmWEAAYASAAEgINivD_BwE

It's in Technical Details section.


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## TheRonin (Mar 12, 2006)

This doesn't seem to be an issue for any other pressure washer manufacturer. I wouldn't be happy if my pressure washer kept blowing fuses it would be going straight back for a refund.


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## Caledoniandream (Oct 9, 2009)

If you blow a fuse, you certainly put too high a load on your circuit, this can cause permanent damage to wiring. 
I would send it straight back as the machine is clearly faulty, assuming you are not using it through a very long / dodgy/ not completely unwound extension lead.
You shouldn’t need to hold the trigger to start the machine.

However on the continent most circuits are 16 amp (230 volt) so the machine could be too high rated to use in the UK.
But again a reason to reject the machine as not suitable, my Karcher 6/13 Proffesional machine kick in and out without any problems when I pull and release the trigger.

If the machine is out of warranty you could consider to fit a slower fuse.


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## WHIZZER (Oct 25, 2005)

IF a time delay fuse is what is recommended then maybe this should be supplied with UK machines and be part of the warranty - or maybe a larger capacitor is needed for UK


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## andy665 (Nov 1, 2005)

WHIZZER said:


> IF a time delay fuse is what is recommended then maybe this should be supplied with UK machines and be part of the warranty - or maybe a larger capacitor is needed for UK


I agree.

Had my P80 Evolution delivered yesterday, planning on using it today, needs to be plugged into an extension lead but its got an RCD and is 13A rated. I have ordered a pack of 13A slow fuses, to be honest I'd never heard of them before and not an off the shelf item anywhere


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## KojakLives (Apr 27, 2009)

GC#65 said:


> Have a read about what Ava say about UK electricity supply and what they recommend.
> 
> https://avastore.co.uk/product/ava-...MI9uCZu8mV9wIVV4BQBh0ZtgmWEAAYASAAEgINivD_BwE
> 
> It's in Technical Details section.


Yep, slow blow fuse will cure this, quite a common thing in the US, didn't realise you could get 13A ones in the UK (so good to know). The P80 has a peak 3.2kW input, so if voltage dips, the amperage will go way past 13A, and even though it's a temporary surge it will cause a normal 'fast' fuse to blow. It's a shame that AVA don't include a slow fuse, but relying on a slow fuse is a bad design decision, AVA should have built their machines with a bigger capacitor to avoid all these problems.


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

Jonny said:


> His P80 is going through 1 - 2 fuses every time he uses it. He hasn't had any joy sorting it so far and is pretty ****ed for an expensive machine.


He doesn't say if he's contacted AVA. I did and they sent a replacement out immediately. I read that it's better to keep the trigger pulled while turning on so that's what I do and haven't had any more trouble. It was ok without doing this, I'm just following recommended procedures.


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## GC#65 (Nov 8, 2014)

I’m after a new pressure washer but have stayed firmly away from the Ava hype train.
20 year warranty is fine but only if the machine works to begin with to then go wrong to need warranty cover.
Then you read about this issue fairly regularly, doesn’t inspire confidence.
Their spec reads like it is right on the edge of UK 13a supply, so agreed, not a good design decision.
Think I’ll get a big Nilfisk.


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## 121DOM (Sep 16, 2013)

GC#65 said:


> Think I'll get a big Nilfisk.


Or a little Kranzle ??? 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## KojakLives (Apr 27, 2009)

GC#65 said:


> I'm after a new pressure washer but have stayed firmly away from the Ava hype train.
> 20 year warranty is fine but only if the machine works to begin with to then go wrong to need warranty cover.
> Then you read about this issue fairly regularly, doesn't inspire confidence.
> Their spec reads like it is right on the edge of UK 13a supply, so agreed, not a good design decision.
> Think I'll get a big Nilfisk.


I remember the same complaint a few years ago about high powered Kranzle pressure washers with total stop mechanisms tripping fuses. So perhaps a little harsh for 1st gen product designed originally for the european market, and this particular issue is unique to the UK. We're the only country in europe that uses ring circuit wiring that requires us to have cartridge fuses in the plugs themselves which max out at 13A, whereas europe uses radial wiring and rely on the consumer board to trip the circuit and they max out at 16A. However most manufacturers that release products in the UK do factor the voltage tolerances to ensure that their devices will work between 216V-253V. I'm not surprised that AVA being such a small player ran into this issue, and unless they will or have revised their on board electronics, using a slow blow fuse will get around this issue. Those that have had their P80 replaced by AVA, I would love to know what AVA changed, did they change the capacitor, turn down the power of the motor from 3.2kW to 2.9kW or just slap in a slow blow fuse in the plug?


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## andy665 (Nov 1, 2005)

Used mine today, standard fuse with a 13A rated extension lead -no problems whatsoever, despite being used off and on for much of the afternoon - superb bit of kit and so much better than my K4 its untrue


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## Tender84 (May 3, 2021)

ridders66 said:


> As I said above, that certainly points to a capacitor fault. It sounds like the machine needs a larger capacitor. It's not unknown for some machines to require a larger one. You're not running it on an extension lead are you?


I do not use an extension for it but I suspect the problem may be more to do with my electric supply to my garage, it is fed from the house with an underground cable and I have had issues with other items that work fine when fed from the house supply but not from the garage. Not sure if I am getting some sort of voltage drop on the garage circuit, I need to investigate further but keep getting distracted


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## Caledoniandream (Oct 9, 2009)

Tender84 said:


> I do not use an extension for it but I suspect the problem may be more to do with my electric supply to my garage, it is fed from the house with an underground cable and I have had issues with other items that work fine when fed from the house supply but not from the garage. Not sure if I am getting some sort of voltage drop on the garage circuit, I need to investigate further but keep getting distracted


That's a bit the problem we have in the UK, some house are fed "looped" to the house next door or even the whole row of houses.
Long distances and in some places old networks.
In this time of age we shouldn't have power cuts but we do, sometimes on a regular base, showing the the restrictions of the network.
This causes differences in voltage, so while some of us get over 230 volt, other are closer to 220 or lower.
If the machine is very close to maximum power requirements, 10 volt voltage drop will cause problems.
I know people who burnt their sockets out with charging their electric car with a three pin plug, while other have no problems at all.

So the solution is either a slightly downrated motor, a bigger capacitor (doesn't always solve it permanently) or a slow fuse, however the last 2 still pose a thread to your wiring in your house.
I think your home insurance wouldn't be too impressed if you burn down for that reason.


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## glendog74 (Jan 11, 2009)

Do the lower rated machines like the P60 have the same fuse trip issue or is it isolated to the more powerful machines?


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## Sausages0 (10 mo ago)

My knowledge of electrics is limited at best, but wouldn't these be of benefit

https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-13a-fused-plug-through-active-rcd-adaptor/63731

I use an airflex storm extractor for carpets. It won't turn on without 1 for each plug as it's too powerful


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## ridders66 (May 24, 2019)

I wouldn't personally fit a slow blow fuse, the fuse blows for a reason. Delaying the fuse blowing is not the best option. Using a plug in RCD as suggested above won't help as it will constantly trip the RCD. Rcds are more sensitive than ceramic fuses, hence they can trip if a light bulb blows.
I remember on my Karcher, a HD 6/13C, I had an issue where when it switched it on, it briefly fired up, as is normal with them, but occasionally blew the fuse. I spoke to my Karcher guy and he recommended fitting a bigger capacitor. We changed it, and it has never blown another fuse.


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## S3rv3d (Mar 5, 2009)

Has anyone had a fuse out of a Karcher? Seems they all use slow blow fuses according to the manuals. So shouldn't be an issue just swapping to one on the P80.



glendog74 said:


> Do the lower rated machines like the P60 have the same fuse trip issue or is it isolated to the more powerful machines?


My P55 is fine running on an extension. I think I've only seen it about the P80, I seen in some YouTube comments that it was something Ava was supposed to be looking into, and resolved around April.


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## [email protected] (May 30, 2006)

If he is blowing 2 to 3 fuses every time he is using it I’d suggest he has a problem with the extension he is using, or where he is plugging it into.

The P80 is a high amp machine, amd takes a big load on initial startup.

The most simple fix is to hold the gun when switching it on for the first time. That will stop the fuse from blowing on startup.

He doesn’t need to switch it off as it’s got an auto cutoff function.

I used a tx12/100 for years that does the same thing if I don’t remove the pressure on startup. I have friends with kranzle washers which do the same thing.


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## ridders66 (May 24, 2019)

S3rv3d said:


> Has anyone had a fuse out of a Karcher? Seems they all use slow blow fuses according to the manuals. So shouldn't be an issue just swapping to one on the P80.
> 
> My P55 is fine running on an extension. I think I've only seen it about the P80, I seen in some YouTube comments that it was something Ava was supposed to be looking into, and resolved around April.


My Karcher uses standard 13 amp fuses.


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## Liambo-235 (Jul 14, 2009)

glendog74 said:


> Do the lower rated machines like the P60 have the same fuse trip issue or is it isolated to the more powerful machines?


I have the P60 and have the same issue but not enough for me to justify sending it back. Usually it was when I was using an extension, so I have it now where I don't need one..

I also found it blew the fuse if the switch was to the ON position on the pressure washer and I then plugged the machine in to the mains and switched it on.


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## ek4 (Oct 27, 2008)

I had this issue and tried time delay fuse which didnt solve the issue (lot of emails back and forth with ava and service has been very good). Machine was returned several weeks ago as advised new revised version being launched adressing this issue. I opted to wait for new machine rather than get refund. 

New apparent revised machine arrived today. Exact same problem. Just blows fuse within 1st minute of use so emailed ava. Pretty much fed up now so will see what ava says.

For reference i dont use extension lead, lead fully unwound and tried in different sockets. Never had any such issue with karcher or nilfisk over last few decades.


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

ek4 said:


> I had this issue and tried time delay fuse which didnt solve the issue (lot of emails back and forth with ava and service has been very good). Machine was returned several weeks ago as advised new revised version being launched adressing this issue. I opted to wait for new machine rather than get refund.
> 
> New apparent revised machine arrived today. Exact same problem. Just blows fuse within 1st minute of use so emailed ava. Pretty much fed up now so will see what ava says.
> 
> For reference i dont use extension lead, lead fully unwound and tried in different sockets. Never had any such issue with karcher or nilfisk over last few decades.


Have you actually tried holding the trigger open as you switch on?
Works for me.


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Zurdo666 said:


> Have you actually tried holding the trigger open as you switch on?
> Works for me.


Heard this is an option, but don't really see this as the 'fix' - it's what has stopped me buying one at present…


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## andy665 (Nov 1, 2005)

Used mine for 4 hours on Saturday, 10m 13A extension lead with RCD, no special precautions taken, not installed the slow fuses I now have - worked perfectly


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

andy665 said:


> Used mine for 4 hours on Saturday, 10m 13A extension lead with RCD, no special precautions taken, not installed the slow fuses I now have - worked perfectly


The 13A slow fuses I've seen are all 20mm long while standard fuses are 25mm.
Do these fit? Where'd you get yours?


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## andy665 (Nov 1, 2005)

Zurdo666 said:


> The 13A slow fuses I've seen are all 20mm long while standard fuses are 25mm.
> Do these fit? Where'd you get yours?


Got them from here:

https://forest-master.com/time-delay-fuses-x2/

They are 25mm long but so far i have not needed to use them


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

andy665 said:


> Got them from here:
> 
> https://forest-master.com/time-delay-fuses-x2/
> 
> They are 25mm long but so far i have not needed to use them


Thanks Andy. Ordered a couple just in case.


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## ek4 (Oct 27, 2008)

Slow blow fuses are a nightmare to source. I tried all the main diy/electrical stores. Managed to find a place online in the end after 2 weeks of searching.

I really want the p80 to work for me hence having waited a couple of months now but becoming fed up having to borrow machine in meantime (just for domestic use)

Someone metioned holding the trigger when switching on
This isnt an option for me as not a fix.

Still waiting to hear back from ava as have feeling just been sent old machine again rather so called revised version supposed to be working on suitable for uk market.


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

From the kranzle.co.uk site...
“The trigger gun should be squeezed when turning the machine on.”
So if it’s good enough for Kranzle it’s good enough for Ava eh?


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## LFD (Nov 14, 2017)

I've had my P80 for a year now and I've had no issues with it at all, so far.

I know that this doesn't help those who are experiencing problems but I thought I'd share anyway.


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## lijongtao (Dec 1, 2017)

LFD said:


> I've had my P80 for a year now and I've had no issues with it at all, so far.
> 
> I know that this doesn't help those who are experiencing problems but I thought I'd share anyway.


Hope you don't mind me asking, how do you find it, what model do you have? My Karcher has finally died. I was looking to Kranzle but they're so expensive so thought I'd give Ava a try but would like to know from detailers not Youtube. Thanks


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## TheRonin (Mar 12, 2006)

Zurdo666 said:


> From the kranzle.co.uk site...
> "The trigger gun should be squeezed when turning the machine on."
> So if it's good enough for Kranzle it's good enough for Ava eh?


Never ever done this on mine, and it still works 10 years on.


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## andy665 (Nov 1, 2005)

lijongtao said:


> Hope you don't mind me asking, how do you find it, what model do you have? My Karcher has finally died. I was looking to Kranzle but they're so expensive so thought I'd give Ava a try but would like to know from detailers not Youtube. Thanks


I have gone from a Karcher K4 to a P80 and the difference is night and day, much more powerful, feels much higher quality - highly recommend one.

Only negative for me were the poor assembly instructions but applying a bit of common sense saw it all sorted


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

TheRonin said:


> Never ever done this on mine, and it still works 10 years on.


Don't shoot the messenger, I'm directly quoting what Kranzle say on their website here...
https://www.kranzle.co.uk/Ser.html#fuse1


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## ridders66 (May 24, 2019)

lijongtao said:


> Hope you don't mind me asking, how do you find it, what model do you have? My Karcher has finally died. I was looking to Kranzle but they're so expensive so thought I'd give Ava a try but would like to know from detailers not Youtube. Thanks


Why not buy a Karcher again? If yours has 'finally died', then you must have had it years. My HD6/13C is at the very least 12 years old and still as good as new and working perfectly. I think there is a lot of hype and marketing spin towards Ava and Kranzle, whereas Karcher have quietly been doing what they do best for years. A pro spec Karcher is in my opinion a better purchase than anything else.


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## lijongtao (Dec 1, 2017)

ridders66 said:


> Why not buy a Karcher again? If yours has 'finally died', then you must have had it years. My HD6/13C is at the very least 12 years old and still as good as new and working perfectly. I think there is a lot of hype and marketing spin towards Ava and Kranzle, whereas Karcher have quietly been doing what they do best for years. A pro spec Karcher is in my opinion a better purchase than anything else.


My Dad gave it me as he'd had problems with the pressure constantly dropping off. I've had it for 4 years and it's done it to me more than a few times. Had it fixed twice now and it still does it.

Now with my lads all driving it is in constant use. I also use it for family driveways etc. For some strange reason all my lads have got into detailing and now they are using all my gear and products. I am wondering if teaching them how to clean a car properly is the right thing to have done ;-) 
We're a 5 car family now and given my problems with Karcher, failed repairs, purging motor, wheels falling off, lack of power intermittently etc.. I fancy something that works. It could have been a lemon from the start in fairness but for me it's never worked.


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## TheRonin (Mar 12, 2006)

I had 2 karchers before I purchased my kranzle, I can't remember the model names but they were both top of the range and both broke within a year.


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## ek4 (Oct 27, 2008)

Ive not had a response this week from ava but have to say the service has been brilliant since pre purchase.

Decided im just going to send it back and get refund as fed up now. Looking at the nilfisk p200 now.


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## [email protected] (May 30, 2006)

Zurdo666 said:


> Have you actually tried holding the trigger open as you switch on?
> Works for me.


so many people seem to not to want to do something pretty simple to help themselves....


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## [email protected] (May 30, 2006)

ek4 said:


> Someone metioned holding the trigger when switching on
> This isnt an option for me as not a fix.


Why?

This attitude baffles me.

"I'm not doing it because it's not a fix" is quite literally the definition of a huffy child stamping their feet and folding their arms.

I don't understand your (and others) mentality.

I've had a TX12/100 for about 15 years. It's a brute of a machine, and will eat fuses for fun if you just switch it on..... but guess what - I hold the trigger for a second as I switch the machine on and do you know how many fuses I've blown in 15 years? A handful at most.

So the AVA machines suggest you do the same. So does Kranzle. But you're not going to do it as it doesn't suit you?

Tell me this - what car do you drive? I'll take a stab at a guess and I could be wrong but lets just imagine for a second its an EK4 civic running the sweet B16 engine.

Now if and when you take it out for a drive, do you cut the frig out of it from cold, or do you let the engine warm up a bit before hitting vtec?

If you let it warm up why do you? Why don't you just out and drive the life out of it because you couldn't be bothered letting it warm up just because the manufacturer and others have told you to?

Do you see where I'm going here - and for the record, this isn't directed at you in particular (although you have been very vocal), but rather the people who complain but are so unwilling to do something to try and make the machine work


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## Caledoniandream (Oct 9, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> so many people seem to not to want to do something pretty simple to help themselves....


If you let the trigger go, and want to press it again, do you walk back to the machine, switch it off and back on?
It could be a long day washing cars that way!back and forward non stop, walk a marathon while washing your car.
It's a fault, the machine is build for a 16 amp circuit and not suitable for the UK.
Karcher had that problem in the past with their Proffesional machines but got it fixed.

I don't know what car you drive, but if it leaks oil, do you just top it up, or do you get it fixed? 
Same if you have a slow puncture, just blow it up? 
It's only a little bit inconvenient.

Every time you blow a fuse, you exceed the maximum load on that circuit, your putting strain on you wiring.
One day the fuse doesn't blow, but your wiring does, not a position I would want to be in.


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## GC#65 (Nov 8, 2014)

Stuff should just work, without compromise.


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

This is an official reply from AVA...it’s a bit long...

The small amount of UK machines that we have been made aware of having fuse problems seem to be related to fluctuations and variations in the amount of voltage provided from the UK power grid, paired with the requirement that all UK plugs be fused internally. As a consequence of increased distance from substations, the use of long extension cables (loss of power in longer wires), or an increased load on the national grid (such as when everyone puts the kettle on after work), the fuse inside the plug on a small number of UK washers blows due to the voltage being provided to the machine exceeding what the fuse is capable of handling. We always recommend that pressure washers be directly into a socket, and as close to the breaker in your properties’ circuit as is reasonably possible.



The fuse we install from the factory is used as it adheres to the British Standards guidelines for the motor and pump in the machine, and in the vast majority of cases has worked completely fine for our customers across the UK. However, as we understand that some customers may continue to have problems with their machines due to their proximity to substations, or the distance in cabling from their fuse box to their washer, we have developed a the current P80 with some minor modifications which should address any issues that customers may have. We know that some companies install a larger fuse on their machines, which we cannot find to be within our understanding of UK electrical safety regulations.



We expect that the small number of problems that we have had to be due to levels exceeding these standards, alongside the nature of the motor and pump we use. I would like to stress again that it is only a very small number of machines that have exhibited this problem with repeated fusing when plugged in to a sufficient power supply. We estimate that less than 0.8% of machines delivered to UK customers have experienced this problem, most of them towards the beginning of our roll out of this product.

Best Regards
Tone 
Customer Service
AVA of Norway


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## [email protected] (May 30, 2006)

Caledoniandream said:


> If you let the trigger go, and want to press it again, do you walk back to the machine, switch it off and back on?


No. I do that on initial startup. And I never have to after that.

If you are getting 'spikes' where the machine surges then it's an issue with _your_ power supply and not the machine itself


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Reading the posts about fuses going all the time I will confess I was nervous. Needlessly so, followed the advice of depressing the trigger on start up and that’s it, only has to be done once. No hardship and makes total sense with surging power on initial start up.


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## ek4 (Oct 27, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Why?
> 
> This attitude baffles me.
> 
> ...


Almost 5 months of back and forth with multiple machines is not acceptable for me. Ive showed lot of patience but end of road for me with ava.

I have to say Ava service has been very good and getting refund now.

I like to have a fault fixed not masked and as someone said earlier. If you have an oil leak do you just keep topping it up or fix the leak. I choose the fix option

Personally i beleive if ava are still around in 5 or 10 years they will up there with best brands with evolution of their products.

Ps - miss the ek days although that was few decades ago !


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

My electric chainsaw kept tripping the downstairs sockets the other week. Never done it before and I’ve used it plenty. The only thing different…was using a new 30m extension reel rather than 20m. I’m no spark but use anything with serious power and it’s going to put a strain on things. If it was a case of having to do loads of different things to fire the PW up I’d agree but it’s literally seconds to press the trigger when turning the machine on and you have to do it once. It’s seemingly not unique to AVA from other posts. This is the most powerful PW I’ve used at home. It’s not perfect, the power cable reel isn’t the best bit of design but pretty much everything else is a massive improvement over my long serving Nilfisk. I’m really impressed with the machine so act just wish I’d bought one earlier.


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## Zurdo666 (May 25, 2018)

There seems to be two distinct camps here.
Those that actually have an AVA and follow the advice about the trigger and are very happy with the performance...
Those who haven’t got an AVA and think holding the trigger open is too much of an inconvenience despite what even Kranzle advise is how to turn it on...
Simples really. You pays your money and takes your choice.
I haven’t the money to justify a Kranzle so have an AVA and I’m happy!


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## Tyreshine2 (Aug 29, 2021)

Any product that runs a high powered induction motor will rely on a clean power supply. If your running an extension cord make sure its the correct specification to handle the load, most extension leads available from the DIY huts wont be . 

Extension leads between 5 - meters look for a cable gauge of at least 1.5mm . Between 10-20 meters 2.5mm gauge. If you are blowing fuses pluging directly into the mains then try a different ring main such as the cooker ring as a test as you may have an issue on the ring causing low voltage at high power drawer. 

Making sure that you pull the trigger before turning on the power washer is also recommended for any power washer using an induction motor as mentioned earlier. 

Due to the way the valves work inside nearly every machine, starting your machine with the trigger closed is like trying to start your car in 3rd gear, its virtually impossible! You wouldn’t do it to your car so don’t do it to your pressure washer!

Using the wrong nozzle size ( orifice size - not angle size ) can also put too much pressure on the pump side of the motor and will burden the motor, equally low pressure or low water feed volume from the hosepipe may also cause the motor to pull too much power.


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## [email protected] (May 30, 2006)

https://youtube.com/shorts/fKuLgM_I1zs?feature=share

I don't know how to inset media natively but here's a video for the easily triggered


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## MoChara (8 mo ago)

I've been told (by Ava) that those with serial numbers after 2146 (that's year/week, so 2021 week 46) should be fine in terms of not blowing fuses. They did then go on to say they recommend a slow blow 13 amp fuse though. Has anyone got a P80 who can confirm this to be the case? 

Also any thoughts on what's best, Master or Evolution series!


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## KojakLives (Apr 27, 2009)

MoChara said:


> I've been told (by Ava) that those with serial numbers after 2146 (that's year/week, so 2021 week 46) should be fine in terms of not blowing fuses. They did then go on to say they recommend a slow blow 13 amp fuse though. Has anyone got a P80 who can confirm this to be the case?
> 
> Also any thoughts on what's best, Master or Evolution series!


Various people have done that with varying levels of success (with AVA, Kranzles, anything that has a 3.2kW motor). It does depend on how much of voltage drop is experienced, if voltage drops to 210V it's going to exceed 15A.

Master and Evolution use the same pump/motor, it's just the external casing and ergonomic which differ. If I was getting one, it would probably be the Evolution. On paper seems to have addressed some of the ergonomic issues of the original Master series.


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## MoChara (8 mo ago)

KojakLives said:


> Various people have done that with varying levels of success (with AVA, Kranzles, anything that has a 3.2kW motor).


Is the Ava not a 2.8kW motor?


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## KojakLives (Apr 27, 2009)

MoChara said:


> Is the Ava not a 2.8kW motor?


Ooops, my mistake, yep you're right, it's 2.8kW. I've got the Kranzle 2160TST on my mind, and that one is 3.2kW. The point is P=IV, so for a machine with a peak draw of 2.8kW, voltage needs to be above 215V.


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## ek4 (Oct 27, 2008)

MoChara said:


> I've been told (by Ava) that those with serial numbers after 2146 (that's year/week, so 2021 week 46) should be fine in terms of not blowing fuses. They did then go on to say they recommend a slow blow 13 amp fuse though. Has anyone got a P80 who can confirm this to be the case?
> 
> Also any thoughts on what's best, Master or Evolution series!


I was unable to clarify this to ava which they requested as had already packaged ready for return although i was sent a so called revised machine. Had my refund now and have to say ava service was very very good

I had sent the master back and swapped for evo. Key differences were a tray at top for nozzles and wind in reel for plug. Looks slightly different as well


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