# Megs mf and polish v lc hydrotech and menz polishes



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Hi all. 

Hope everyones had a good xmas.

I just wanted to know from those of you who have worked on hard paint what you prefer to use. I currently use lc hydrotech and menz polishes with a DA and find that combo difficult to use, seriously time consuming and still not fully corrected. It may well be down to my technique but is the megs mf pads and polish easier to use. 

Cheers folks and have a good new year!


----------



## Black.MB (Aug 22, 2012)

I've done quite a few cars with hard paint (ceramic clearcoat) with DA polisher, like Audis, VWs, Mercedeses, BMW... Tried Meguiars and Menzerna, foam and MF pads. Haven't tried Meg's MF system though, I used Flexipads MF. The best thing which works for me on hard paint via DA polisher is Menz FG400 and Menz white cutting pad, but I havent tried M101 yet. Hope it helps:thumb:


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Black.MB said:


> I've done quite a few cars with hard paint (ceramic clearcoat) with DA polisher, like Audis, VWs, Mercedeses, BMW... Tried Meguiars and Menzerna, foam and MF pads. Haven't tried Meg's MF system though, I used Flexipads MF. The best thing which works for me on hard paint via DA polisher is Menz FG400 and Menz white cutting pad, but I havent tried M101 yet. Hope it helps:thumb:


Ive used PF2400 and FG500 with an LC hydrotech Cyan pad on an Audi and i know everyone says it takes alot of time but ive done approx 3-4 min twice with very little correction. I spritz the panel 2-3 times to keep the polish from drying out. Should i be working on each panel more than twice. Ive not heard of flexipads but will take a look at them. Is the menz cutting pad better than the LC's cyan? Cheers bud.


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Bump.


----------



## Will_G (Jan 23, 2012)

Surprised that the Menz polish dried out. What size an area are you working? How much pressure you applying? What speed are you using on the machine?


----------



## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Menzerna shouldn't need any additional fluid. What were your exact sets like, and how big was your work area? With the correct technique your combo should be getting good correction levels


----------



## dave- (Nov 8, 2012)

I have read that megs ultimate compound cuts like strong polish but dries out much slower so you can work it for ages and less messing about stopping to reload the pad.


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Will_G said:


> Surprised that the Menz polish dried out. What size an area are you working? How much pressure you applying? What speed are you using on the machine?


Yeh it dries out really quick. I work 45cm x 45cm area. I prime the pad with 4 pea sized amounts and a spritz of QD. After that its 2 pea sized amounts and a spritz on the pad.

I spread the polish on speed 1 for 2 passes. Work at speed 3 with moderate pressure for 2-4 passes then on speed 5 for another 2-4 passes until the polish has almost certainly disappeared. Now when i apply that pressure sometimes its too much as the backing plate then cuts into the pad. I sometimes knock it down to speed 1 to put polish back on the panel. I saw one of dave kg's video where he sprays the panel just to stop it from drying out.


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

stangalang said:


> Menzerna shouldn't need any additional fluid. What were your exact sets like, and how big was your work area? With the correct technique your combo should be getting good correction levels


When people say the polish should turn like a thin layer of vaseline i find that happens extremely quickly and had the micromarring issue which could have been down to polish breakdown and the cloths themselves. There seems to be so many variations on what is the correct technique im just at a loss! Lol

Im hoping theres a class nearby soon that can go to.


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

dave- said:


> I have read that megs ultimate compound cuts like strong polish but dries out much slower so you can work it for ages and less messing about stopping to reload the pad.


And that is why I want to try it BUT thats assuming theres nothing wrong with my technique which i cant be certain of! Lol


----------



## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

The cyan pad will install micro marring though, it's not always the polishes abrasives. Hence the requirement for a finishing step. 

As long as your work area isn't dry, you can continue, just keep moving slow and monitoring it


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

stangalang said:


> The cyan pad will install micro marring though, it's not always the polishes abrasives. Hence the requirement for a finishing step.
> 
> As long as your work area isn't dry, you can continue, just keep moving slow and monitoring it


I do use final finish after BUT its the correction I cant get. On very light scratches, it feels like id need to do 5-6 sets.....is that normal?


----------



## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

NMH said:


> I do use final finish after BUT its the correction I cant get. On very light scratches, it feels like id need to do 5-6 sets.....is that normal?


No. And I'm confused as you said you were applying enough pressure to damage the pad. Are you holding the machine perfectly flat? The slightest tilt in the axis will reduce pad spin making it "appear" like it's down to pressure. A mistake less experienced make a lot. It has to be something simple lime that, it's quite n aggressive combo


----------



## dave- (Nov 8, 2012)

Just get a rotary and have done with it. DA`s will always take ages to cut unless you put sand paper on the end of the thing.


----------



## Black.MB (Aug 22, 2012)

NMH said:


> Ive used PF2400 and FG500 with an LC hydrotech Cyan pad on an Audi and i know everyone says it takes alot of time but ive done approx 3-4 min twice with very little correction. I spritz the panel 2-3 times to keep the polish from drying out. Should i be working on each panel more than twice. Ive not heard of flexipads but will take a look at them. Is the menz cutting pad better than the LC's cyan? Cheers bud.


I've never experienced to dry the polish, but I've heard that a water spritz would make longer working time with M105. I've not tried LC's cyan pad, but Menzerna white cutting pad is the hardest pad I've tried so far. And I use it very often for VAG paints.


----------



## Black.MB (Aug 22, 2012)

dave- said:


> I have read that megs ultimate compound cuts like strong polish but dries out much slower so you can work it for ages and less messing about stopping to reload the pad.


I've used Ultimate Compound a lot. I can say it's a very good polish with good cutting results and nice finish. I see it as cut pad depentant polish - you determnine the level of cut with pad aggressiveness, which is typical for SMAT abrasives. I can say it is excellent one step polish. Indeed it dries slowly so you can work it for long time. But in my experience it cuts far less than Menz FG400.


----------



## Black.MB (Aug 22, 2012)

stangalang said:


> No. And I'm confused as you said you were applying enough pressure to damage the pad. Are you holding the machine perfectly flat? The slightest tilt in the axis will reduce pad spin making it "appear" like it's down to pressure. A mistake less experienced make a lot. It has to be something simple lime that, it's quite n aggressive combo


You can damage the pad with cheap backing plates too (which are included with DAS6). I managed to damage several Meg's Soft buff 2.0 pads on edges until I bought their W68DA backing plate. Now I'm fine.



dave- said:


> Just get a rotary and have done with it. DA`s will always take ages to cut unless you put sand paper on the end of the thing.


Working with rotary would decrase correcting time for shure. I do sometimes work with rotary, but I like the safer side and ease of use of DA. I'm opting for forced DA in near future though (Flex 3401). I believe I can get best of both worlds with it:thumb:


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

stangalang said:


> No. And I'm confused as you said you were applying enough pressure to damage the pad. Are you holding the machine perfectly flat? The slightest tilt in the axis will reduce pad spin making it "appear" like it's down to pressure. A mistake less experienced make a lot. It has to be something simple lime that, it's quite n aggressive combo


Im just as confused as you mate! Lol The pad was sinking in the middle slightly but had flattened out after using it this time. I even tried cleaning the pad midway just to get rid of any old polish even though i just did one panel and the pad was clean to begin with. I can only assume the pad has worn out. Ive been careful to keep the pad firmly and evenly pressed against the panel. Will see how the new pad works.


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

dave- said:


> Just get a rotary and have done with it. DA`s will always take ages to cut unless you put sand paper on the end of the thing.


Am going to get on a course and try a rotary before investing in one.


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Black.MB said:


> I've never experienced to dry the polish, but I've heard that a water spritz would make longer working time with M105. I've not tried LC's cyan pad, but Menzerna white cutting pad is the hardest pad I've tried so far. And I use it very often for VAG paints.


Its obvious i must be doing something wrong if its drying out. I then have to go back to speed 1 to spread the existing polish off the pad back onto the panel I never went for menz pads initially as they seem to get mixed reviews. Ive just placed an order for more LC pads 2 mins ago! Lol will see if i can get the menz cutting one too. Cheers


----------



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Black.MB said:


> You can damage the pad with cheap backing plates too (which are included with DAS6). I managed to damage several Meg's Soft buff 2.0 pads on edges until I bought their W68DA backing plate. Now I'm fine.
> 
> Working with rotary would decrase correcting time for shure. I do sometimes work with rotary, but I like the safer side and ease of use of DA. I'm opting for forced DA in near future though (Flex 3401). I believe I can get best of both worlds with it:thumb:


Ive just ordered the right backing plate for 4 inch pads. Never realised this was a factor to consider


----------



## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

NMH said:


> Ive just ordered the right backing plate for 4 inch pads. Never realised this was a factor to consider


Excessive left over pad will take it's tool no doubt, the backing should be "nearly" the same size, much smaller and it's a lot of pressure on the small surface area. After that backing plates are much of a muchness, trust me.

If your pad sinks in the middle it's likely it's excess product that hadn't cleared out. A pad spur (or tooth brush or lolipop stick) will help clear this. If it sinks permanently it maybe defective? I don't know couldn't say there


----------

