# Q for the paint pros, clearcoat whole panel or fade out lacquer for small spot repair



## Ultimate (Feb 18, 2007)

Hi

Know that there are few professional bodyshop guys on here. I have stupidly caught the rear bumper on my car (pics attached, excuse the road salt!), it has caused a small scuff, however think it may need a slight skim of filler. 
Given the size of the scuff i was going to do a DIY repair, i am happy with the method for doing the smaller scratch at the bottom, but with the larger scuff above I was trying to avoid clearcoating the whole panel.

Would a spot repair with clearcoat blended and fade out thinners appplied give a satisfactory finish?
It is not overly visible given its position on the bumper so was hoping this would be ok.

Any thoughts / advice on this?


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## carfix (May 28, 2010)

From the pics, that damage would be easily covered by a smart repair. 

However it looks like a pearlescent paint, so unless you have some experience and the correct equipment, you may not be able to effect an invisible repair.

Your idea is sound, but if it needs a skim of filler, use something like Dolphin Glaze, and it will need primer as well so you dont get any shadows where the fill has been. The paint is low hiding and very glittery so you need to ensure youve got enough on, but has to be put on dry rather than muddy as the effect sinks easily and it goes dark. It helps to put on gentle coats, drying with a hairdryer as you go, and try not to paint more than about a hand size. lacquer, and fadeout round the edge as youve said, key the painted area with a grey scotch pad or 1500 wet n dry, and it helps if you can get some decent fade out like Lechler MC 885.

Best wishes.


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

No you wouldn't need to paint the whole bumper for that. 
If you look just above where the scuff is, there's a swage line just above it, you could use tape along the so you just paint up to that, look at painting door edges in this section it will show you how to do a roll back with tape. If you do that you can laquer up to it and you won't get a laquer edge using that. Then you can just spot the colour in and laquer, and fade out would be used on the edge of the final laquer coat to blend it in either side of the laquer.


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

carfix said:


> From the pics, that damage would be easily covered by a smart repair.
> 
> However it looks like a pearlescent paint, so unless you have some experience and the correct equipment, you may not be able to effect an invisible repair.
> 
> ...


You forgot to mention 'waft' :lol:


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## robdcfc (Sep 17, 2012)

Just for you carfix(Rob) that looks like performance blue to me!!


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## Ultimate (Feb 18, 2007)

robdcfc said:


> Just for you carfix(Rob) that looks like performance blue to me!!


indeed it is


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## Ultimate (Feb 18, 2007)

Carfix / Andy

Thanks for your advice on this it is much appreciated. Is there any particular aerosol lacquer you could recommend? I have seen some 2k ones (marketed as ISO free) with activator in the bottom of the can, do you have any experience of these? I am told they have much better durability and UV resistance.
Appreciate you may only have experience of pro/bulk products but thought I would ask on the off chance.
Do have a compressor a cheayp spray gun and a smaller spray gun I used to do a spot repair on my alloy, however have never used the 'big' gun and don't have in line driers etc. so thinking it may be easier to go the aerosol route.
Would a 1k primer and basecoat be compatible with a 2k lacquer?

Cheers


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Ultimate said:


> Carfix / Andy
> 
> Thanks for your advice on this it is much appreciated. Is there any particular aerosol lacquer you could recommend? I have seen some 2k ones (marketed as ISO free) with activator in the bottom of the can, do you have any experience of these? I am told they have much better durability and UV resistance.
> Appreciate you may only have experience of pro/bulk products but thought I would ask on the off chance.
> ...


If your going down the aerosol route, only laquer I've ever used is one by pro-xl uv resistant, petrol resistant, had good results with it. 
Yes a 1k primer and basecoat will be compatible with either 1K or 2K clear laquer. Personally I've never used these 2K aerosol laquers as its easier for me to just use one of my sprayguns. Could you not use the spraygun you already have, as you'll have more control with that than aerosol, if you've used it for spot repairs already then you shouldn't have much problem doing your bumper.


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Sorry forgot to add a link for pro-xl laquer.

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...vYCoAw&usg=AFQjCNE3kzQpxP7NgU_xEGcNEIDsBtttJA


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

Andyb0127 said:


> Could you not use the spraygun you already have, as you'll have more control with that than aerosol, if you've used it for spot repairs already then you shouldn't have much problem doing your bumper.


Not forgetting needle & cap size, pressure, distance, speed of pass etc, etc :lol:


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