# De-Nibber Prototype Completed With Pics



## IbizaFR (May 22, 2010)

Well the De-Nibber has been machines up by my Father In-law!

Its made from High Carbon Steel and the diamensions are as follow,

20mm x 26mm by 3mm thick

The 4 edges have a concave grind of 0.03mm so as to give each face a top and bottom cutting edge giving 8 cutting edges per tool.

The concave grind on each face was done to produce a exceptionally sharp cutting edge as we tried a 90degree flat machined edge and this worked well, but the concave grind of 0.03mm produced a cutting face which allows minimal pressure to achieve the same result.

The centre hole idea was chosed and counter bored to enable a secure hold between thumb and forefinger, no matter if you use the 20mm or the 26mm cutting face.

The 20mm x 26mm diamension I thought would give a wide flat cutting edge for flat panels or on other panels the 20mm cutting edge would be better.

Obviously this needs to be used carefully and unlike a razor blade does not have a knife edge which trys to cut downward into the paint due to its design, this slides along the paint/clearcoat and cuts off anything above the paints/clearcoats natural level.

Removed a nasty looking touchup stick repair right at clearcoat level, and inproved its appearance drastically on a Vauxhall Bronze Metallic.

The best method to use the tool is not to go straight at the item to be removed and apply pressure straight at the object, but to hold the tool at approx 30degrees and lightly wipe the face of the cutting edge across the item to be removed keeping the face flat to the paint/clearcoat. Little or no pressure is required to do this due to the tools 0.03mm cutting face.

sorry about the Picture quality ! were better engineers than we are photographers :thumb:

Top View 20mmx26mm



















20mm Face View 0.03mm Concave Cutting Face










26mm Face View 0.03mm Concave Cutting Face










Any questions fire away


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## Leemack (Mar 6, 2009)

How do these work?

I saw a post some time ago but didn't get it


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## IbizaFR (May 22, 2010)

If you have a vehicle brought in with a chip thats been badly touched up with a paint touch in brush, you use a DE-Nibber to shave off the excess paint which is abouve the level of the clearcoat and then the touch in is the same level as the clearcoat not like a big spot sitting on top which stands out like a sore thumb.

They can also be used on paint runs and other defects on the surface.


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## ROMEYR32 (Mar 27, 2011)

Showshine said:


> How do these work?
> 
> I saw a post some time ago but didn't get it


Russ @ reflectology is man the to speak to


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## Johnr32 (Apr 25, 2010)

Showshine said:


> How do these work?
> 
> I saw a post some time ago but didn't get it


Glad im not the only one who doesnt quite understand! I've never seen it being used before and youtube doesn't seem to have any videos on how to use it.:newbie:


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## mx_rab (May 25, 2011)

I want one


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## Leemack (Mar 6, 2009)

I remember now :thumb:


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## m411mtf (Feb 10, 2008)

I would like one of those too!


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## Ultra (Feb 25, 2006)

This tool is much easier to use than a scraper/stanley blade for shaving off lacquer runs de-nibbing or touch ups that stand above the surface, stays sharp as well


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## ROMEYR32 (Mar 27, 2011)

Johnr32 said:


> Glad im not the only one who doesnt quite understand! I've never seen it being used before and youtube doesn't seem to have any videos on how to use it.:newbie:


Here`s Russ`s guide guys :thumb:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=217520


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## e32chris (Sep 21, 2011)

thats great i have been searching for a while for one of these is it possible to buy one???

i am a novice and my paintwork needs a lot of work which i want to correct myself. deep scratches and chips all over the bonnet. i could do a write up on the repair from a non proffesional point of view


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## The_Bouncer (Nov 24, 2010)

Great innovation to do this :thumb: - At the right price these will sell a lot.


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## IbizaFR (May 22, 2010)

I have asked the question about running some off and my Father Inlaw says yes he will so PM if your interested. These all all hand made and machined so they are not made in 10 mins.


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## Spoony (May 28, 2007)

IbizaFR said:


> I have asked the question about running some off and my Father Inlaw says yes he will so PM if your interested. These all all hand made and machined so they are not made in 10 mins.


How much we looking at for one of these?


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## e32chris (Sep 21, 2011)

i dont mind paying for one through paypal to at least cover materials and postage, i would pm but being a newbie im not able to yet:newbie:


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## OrangePeel (Feb 19, 2007)

Spoony said:


> How much we looking at for one of these?


+ 1, Interested subject to cost...


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## IbizaFR (May 22, 2010)

well the stamped ones from festol are £45 +p/p so inc P/P
My Father Inlaw is coming back to me P/P delivered. These are hand made so take a while to machine.


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## Spoony (May 28, 2007)

Make sure if you do consider a price that there is some reddies in it for the FIL


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## IbizaFR (May 22, 2010)

FIL ? tell me more


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## Spoony (May 28, 2007)

IbizaFR said:


> FIL ? tell me more


Father in Law


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## IbizaFR (May 22, 2010)

FIL  sharper than the tool mate I'm doing the write up and he gets the money, I got mine for free:thumb:

Can a Sponge Jocky post prices ? were not doing this as a business just making a few if one or 6 want one



> Rules - No advertising or selling of any kind allowed in the forums,


oops seems I can answer my own question


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## Spoony (May 28, 2007)

IbizaFR said:


> FIL  sharper than the tool mate I'm doing the write up and he gets the money, I got mine for free:thumb:
> 
> Can a Sponge Jocky post prices ? were not doing this as a business just making a few if one or 6 want one
> 
> oops seems I can answer my own question


Start a group buy. PM Whizzer to see if its allowed but I'm sure it will be.


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## marccowley (Mar 23, 2008)

im also interested, wanna have a go at paint repair my self!


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## porsheman (May 10, 2010)

i would like one if this goes into production: :


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## ant_s (Jan 29, 2009)

Why are these any better then touching in stone chips etc than wet-sanding the paint back to the same level?


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## mx_rab (May 25, 2011)

I guess a De-nibber concentrates on anything above clearcoat level and will not take anything more off. While wet sanding would remove a degree of clearcoat around the the chip itself.


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## m411mtf (Feb 10, 2008)

Definitely interested if the price is right!


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## Boomer (Jul 2, 2011)

Yep, me too


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## -Simon- (Oct 29, 2010)

Let me know the price ;-)


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## skodakid (May 6, 2011)

me too, subject to price


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## porsheman (May 10, 2010)

as i have not got ten posts could you send me the details to pay you,the price you are asking.


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## wil4s1 (Aug 12, 2008)

Im in for one of these too price dependant.

scott


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## IbizaFR (May 22, 2010)

*Testing Results*

Ok guys here is the latest new on the de-nibber in testing

The 0.03mm concave edge has produced a monster of a tool and it is far to sharp to the point of damage to the clearcoat with little input by the Operator. On testing the tool is so sharp than any incorrect position of the cutting edge is causing damage and cutting of excess amounts so were going back and deburring the outer edge with a redius which we believe will solve the problem.

We talking so sharp with the 0.03mm concave gring the tool will shave flat alloy plate ! which is not what we want on top of clearcoat.

Watch this space.


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## waqasr (Oct 22, 2011)

Any update on this?..Very interested and would also like to pay you for one!


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## NoobWash (Apr 18, 2011)

I'm interested but to be honest it will have to be a lot cheaper than a Festool.. which might not be worth it for the FIL depending on how much work he puts into them.

Hopefully you can find a right balance which is cool for both us detailers and you.

Lou

P.S. I say sharper the better! especially when dealing with not 100% cured/hard paint which could pull out using something blunt-ish.


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## Gruffs (Dec 10, 2007)

Great idea. Though i can see a lot of members coming back to you with complaints that they have shaved their paint. This will be very user dependant on curved surfaces.


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## Reflectology (Jul 29, 2009)

just jumping in on this as the picture speaks a thousand words....far too dangerous....the edges need milling to a perfect rounded corner....hence the original ones expensive price tag....


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## GJM (Jul 19, 2009)

Festool one worth the £50 tag?


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## Reflectology (Jul 29, 2009)

GJM said:


> Festool one worth the £50 tag?


Definitely....those who try this WILL damage paintwork....as has been commented on....they are precision engineered....not just knocked up.....


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## Bero (Mar 9, 2008)

Reflectology said:


> Definitely....those who try this WILL damage paintwork....as has been commented on....they are precision engineered....not just knocked up.....


They're a piece of carbide/hardened steel a specific shape. If you can replicate that it will be as good. It's NOT rocket science, it's a postage sized piece of metal....not Chinese versions of X5s


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## GJM (Jul 19, 2009)

Reflectology said:


> Definitely....those who try this WILL damage paintwork....as has been commented on....they are precision engineered....not just knocked up.....


Thanks mate, anything bad to be said about the festool, was looking at it the other day pondering, seem to be getting quite a few things with some nasty chips in just now


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## PaulN (Jan 17, 2008)

Reflectology said:


> Definitely....those who try this WILL damage paintwork....as has been commented on....they are precision engineered....not just knocked up.....


I could make one up to much tighter tolerances than the Festool one I would still class it as knocked up because its a one off and hardly Precision Engineering.


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## mikethefish (Feb 4, 2011)

Want one when fully tested will save a lot of machining and rubbing down!!!!!!!


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## Deeper Detail (Oct 31, 2010)

Round those corners off, as posted already and finish all the flat surfaces via "lapping" or grinding bed to a high surface finish to reduce as far as poss any scratching to the paint. Then your good to go mate :thumb:

Tungsten is another great material to use, if you can get it at the right price.

(Lapping is easy, you just need a flat bed and some lapping paste)


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## dna86 (Oct 7, 2011)

Hello I am trying to build one, but the edges should be smooth or sharp?


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