# DA Advice - BMW Paint



## xedbot (Sep 20, 2011)

Had my first adventure into the world of powered polishing over the weekend. I have a BMW Z4M Coupe in Titanium silver and decided to tackle the epic bonnet first. (I had planned to do the whole car but soon realised that was far too ambitious for one sitting)

My arsenal:
DAS6-Pro
CG Hex-Logic: Orange, Green, White, Black. All in 5.5" and 4"
Menz: FG500, PO85RD3.02, PO106FA, PO85RD
AF Finale, CarPro Eraser.

Technique:
- 1 spritz AF finale to prime pad
- 4 pea-sized drops of compound/polish for first use then 3 after
- Dab compound/polish around section then spread using speed 2, one pass in each direction.
- 8-10 passes on speed 5, focussing on maintaining 1-2 revolutions per second moving at 1" per second. Overlapping passes and alternating directions until compound/polish becomes noticeably clearer.
- Pad 'spurred' with brush and 1 spritz of AF finale between sets. Residue removed from panel.

So I started off with the orange/3.02 combo, really focussed on my technique and was comfortable and relaxed with the machine. First set done, noticeable improvement but still some swirls so tried again with orange/FG500 which was much better. All swirls removed after 2 sets with orange/FG500

Followed up with 1 set of white/106FA and very happy with the refinement and flake-pop.

Completed whole bonnet - ELEVEN 12"-18" sq. sections - in about 6 hours!

So...A couple of queries:

1. I know BMW paint is hard but I was quite surprised I had to step down to FG500 straight away just to remove swirls. This combo didn't touch any of the RDS which is something I want to tackle next. I have yet to try the 4" spot pads and I understand these are better at removing specific defects like RDS? Would it be worth investing in some yellow pads or FG400 or would I be better looking into the micro fibre systems for this specific purpose? Any other suggestions?

2. I really didn't get on well with Eraser and found it very smeary and difficult to remove (Did not like the thought of repeatedly wiping a section id just polished!) so I ended up just using Finale to remove the residue which was pretty much just a one-wipe affair. Everyone raves about this no not sure what I'm doing wrong, any ideas?

3. About two hours into my stint I noticed the pad wobbling so I immediately stopped to inspect the machine. The threads on my Flexipad 5" backing plate had stripped! The plate was definitely tight and not cross-threaded or over tightened. Luckily I had the original plate the machine came with handy so could carry on. Has anyone had this happen to them?

4. My ears were ringing by the end of the session which I think was due to the large panel amplifying the noise/vibration from the machine. Definitely going to get some plugs/defenders for next time.

All-in-all a very positive and rewarding process watching your paint come alive through hard graft! :buffer:

Just though I would share my experience and obviously welcome any comment or critique!


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Try mf pads they will finish a bm down VERY nicely


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## Soapybubbles (Feb 10, 2014)

I have just completed correcting my Dads 3 series(also titanium silver), did the whole lot with Orange Hex pad and Megs UC except for the roof, Which was done with a MF cutting pad.

Defo wanna be using a MF pad on BMW paint, it cut much quicker than the Orange hex pad.


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## Leebo310 (Sep 30, 2013)

This thread needs pictures :-D


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## xedbot (Sep 20, 2011)

Leebo310 said:


> This thread needs pictures :-D


I knew that was coming!

Unfortunately I found it really difficult to photograph the defects due to my lighting and it being a silver car.

I did take a cheeky photo at the end (about 9pm!), not the best as its off the phone but you get the idea!


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

AllenF said:


> Try mf pads they will finish a bm down VERY nicely


Yes indeed, did my A4 bonnet with a MF pad and D300, finished with 205 on a LC crimson HT. Stuck the car right under a street light and all swirls gone.


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## Leebo310 (Sep 30, 2013)

xedbot said:


> I knew that was coming!
> 
> Unfortunately I found it really difficult to photograph the defects due to my lighting and it being a silver car.
> 
> I did take a cheeky photo at the end (about 9pm!), not the best as its off the phone but you get the idea!


Haha, cheers mate, that pic looks mean as hell! 
Yeah I know what you mean anyway, silver is hard to show defects. Even in direct sunlight I struggle to see anything on my A6!


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## Peeunit (Aug 12, 2013)

I've just had this issue. Very surprised at how agressive I had to go to get rid of swirls on my Audi TT.. Its a learning curve though. Now I've got an MF pad so will see how I get on with that. Looking at getting some D300 which apparently works well.

Your car looks amaze in that last picture. Nice work


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## Blackroc (Dec 10, 2012)

Peeunit said:


> I've just had this issue. Very surprised at how agressive I had to go to get rid of swirls on my Audi TT.. Its a learning curve though. Now I've got an MF pad so will see how I get on with that. Looking at getting some D300 which apparently works well.
> 
> Your car looks amaze in that last picture. Nice work


Audi paint is not quite as hard as BMW but not far off.

Sonax Perfect Finish works brilliantly with MF pads on BMW paint...


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## neilb62 (Jul 30, 2007)

I've just changed to M/F pads to sort the '5' out, still slow going but much better than an Orange Hex...


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## srhutch (Aug 2, 2009)

Do pads degrade over time. I've had mine coming up 9 years or so with very little use.

Sonus Orange and yellow with Megs 105 and it doesn't touch the paint on my BM in Black Sapphire. Paint depth readings before and after are the same.

Either I'm not being patient enough and doing enough passes, applying enough pressure or it the pads?

Any advise greatly appreciated.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

No idea if pads will deteriorate over time. Problem is it could one of many things why the 105 and compounding pad is not working for you. Some obvious things spring to mind which may already be doing but just in case..... Keep the work area small eg 12 to 18" square, apply a reasonable amount of pressure, relax the shoulders - this wont remove swirls but does make it less tiring. One thing to bear in mind with polishing, it is not a quick process.

If the paint is hard it might be worth trying some MF pads with the 105


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