# Painting a room



## shane_ctr

We expecting are 2nd child and I want to get the nursery ready for the 1st we payed someone to paint the room but want to do it myself, luckily the doors are oak so don't need any gloss work just the skirtings is my order correct 

1. Paint ceiling. 

2. caulk skirtings on top and any other gaps before rubbing down?

3. gloss word work

4. Cut in corners before rolling. The room is currently magnolia with a couple of paint samples or do I need to apply anything before hand or can I just go ahead and apply to coats of orange paint?


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## turbosnoop

I'm no expert and happy to be corrected, but what works for me would be to:
Paint ceiling. 
Prep walls/ skirting boards/door frames, ie sanding, filling.
Paint walls, whether you cut in or roller first is of little importance to be completely honest IMO, cut in first is slightly better, then you can try to roller as much as poss of the wall
Mask of areas for glossing, undercoat/prime these, then gloss and remove masking asap
I never known a caulk that can be sanded, so I'd put that on before painting but after sanding (remove dust first). Most caulks need 24 hours before they can be painted. In my experience they or the paint on top cracks later down the line no matter what you do. Maybe there are better caulks out there but your average diy shop basic caulk I find cracks after a while. Oil based gloss yellows, water based doesn't, but oil based tends to give a better finish for less effort, multiple coats etc. The more difference in colour between your gloss and emulsion, the more any untidy cutting in or edges will show up. For eg, paint your walls white or light cream and use a white gloss, and even Stevie wonder could do a decent job


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## Andpopse

My sequence is rub down, fill as reqd and rub that down. Clean up then paint ceiling and cornice. Then paint corners of walls and cut in ceiling or cornice. You don't have to worry too much about cutting in skirting, in fact you can easily flat down any emulsion that is on the skirting.
Then I undercoat skirting and topcoat it. Doing it in this order makes cutting in the skirting much easier as you are not cutting in against gravity.
If using a light colour emulsion on the walls you can paint straight over the skirting and use it as a pre undercoat.
Btw, using a tack rag prior to under coat / top coat is a good idea.

Just what I do....hope it helps.


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## adlem

I'm a decorator by trade,

Cut out all your cracks and fill (Toupret filler rubs down really easily)

Rub everything down and then caulk where the woodwork meets the walls and any skirting corners/architraves etc. If you caulk before sanding you'll rip it out and have to redo bits. Caulk can be painted after one hour, doesn't crack if you're going over it with oil-based paint (I.e woodwork) only emulsion to emulsion edges split. I use Geocel Decorators Caulk. If you have cracks in the corners/ceiling line I use my finger and normal filler to fill it and sponge or sand back

Paint the ceiling, 2 coats. Cut in first then roll each coat (preferably with a 12" long pile roller)

Paint walls, 2 coats. Cut in and roll a wall at a time with a 9" medium pile roller. The first coat can be painted inbetween the coats on the ceiling if you leave the top cutting in. Fill anything else that shows, rub that down and touch in and cut in the top after you've finished the ceiling. Allow to dry fully before final coat. If using a light colour, go over the edge of your woodwork on the first coat as the woodwork paint will cover a light colour in two coats. This way you can be sure your colour is far enough down and everything will be covered.

Tape up floor/carpet and paint woodwork. Make sure to prime any bare bits first. I tend to use oil-based Satinwood, 2 coats. Doesn't yellow as quick as gloss, is less shiny and has a more modern feel and look to it. The oil-based paints are far harder wearing than any acrylics I've come across.

Always use trade quality paint from a decorators merchants (I use Dulux/ICI) as there is a vast difference between trade paint and the watered down retail versions for average Joe in B&Q/Homebase etc. Decent brushes make a world of difference, purchase a pack of Purdy brushes like these - http://www.screwfix.com/p/purdy-monarch-elite-synthetic-bristle-brush-set-3-pcs/84568 and they'll see you right. 2" for cutting in your ceilings and walls. Just wash out well between uses under a tap and the 1.5" for your architraves and skirting and the 1" for other fiddly bits. A small flat Fitch might be useful too. I presume you know which edges on the architrave should be painted?

Anything else just PM :thumb:


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## shane_ctr

adlem said:


> I'm a decorator by trade,
> 
> Cut out all your cracks and fill (Toupret filler rubs down really easily)
> 
> Rub everything down and then caulk where the woodwork meets the walls and any skirting corners/architraves etc. If you caulk before sanding you'll rip it out and have to redo bits. Caulk can be painted after one hour, doesn't crack if you're going over it with oil-based paint (I.e woodwork) only emulsion to emulsion edges split. I use Geocel Decorators Caulk. If you have cracks in the corners/ceiling line I use my finger and normal filler to fill it and sponge or sand back
> 
> Paint the ceiling, 2 coats. Cut in first then roll each coat (preferably with a 12" long pile roller)
> 
> Paint walls, 2 coats. Cut in and roll a wall at a time with a 9" medium pile roller. The first coat can be painted inbetween the coats on the ceiling if you leave the top cutting in. Fill anything else that shows, rub that down and touch in and cut in the top after you've finished the ceiling. Allow to dry fully before final coat. If using a light colour, go over the edge of your woodwork on the first coat as the woodwork paint will cover a light colour in two coats. This way you can be sure your colour is far enough down and everything will be covered.
> 
> Tape up floor/carpet and paint woodwork. Make sure to prime any bare bits first. I tend to use oil-based Satinwood, 2 coats. Doesn't yellow as quick as gloss, is less shiny and has a more modern feel and look to it. The oil-based paints are far harder wearing than any acrylics I've come across.
> 
> Always use trade quality paint from a decorators merchants (I use Dulux/ICI) as there is a vast difference between trade paint and the watered down retail versions for average Joe in B&Q/Homebase etc. Decent brushes make a world of difference, purchase a pack of Purdy brushes like these - http://www.screwfix.com/p/purdy-monarch-elite-synthetic-bristle-brush-set-3-pcs/84568 and they'll see you right. 2" for cutting in your ceilings and walls. Just wash out well between uses under a tap and the 1.5" for your architraves and skirting and the 1" for other fiddly bits. A small flat Fitch might be useful too. I presume you know which edges on the architrave should be painted?
> 
> Anything else just PM :thumb:


Thank you for your incredibly detailed post. What grade sand paper would you recommend to rub down the filler work and the word work?

The room is magnolia at the min and will be going a light orange, will I need to apply a white emulsion before putting on my top coat or will I be OK to just go straight on with the top coat. 👍


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## adlem

P80 is usually enough for most things. Rub down everything though and not just the fillers as this will get rid of any bits/lumps/old fat edges and provide a key and better finish. Most people can paint reasonably, it's the preparation and time getting that right (like most things) that makes the difference to the overall finish. Use a worn bit for any filler between coats to save cutting right back through. 

An extremely worn bit or some P240 for any lumps before your final coat on the woodwork. 

If going a pale orange, 2 coats should cover Magnolia as it's not that dark and quite peachy/orange itself. If in any doubt you could blank it out with white first or just do 3 of the wall colour if it needs it. Sounds like it should be fine though


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## Ashtray

I wouldn't use 80 for anything but shaping filler, 120 max for walls I really like the Norton mesh sanding pads available at b&q I would normally bang a 240 over the walls to knock the previous roller/brush marks off, I always caulk all internal corners followed by a coat of oil based undercoat to prevent crazing/cracking of the emulsion 
I always cut and roller one wall at a time keeping a wet edge on all paint is important for a flawless finish 
I have taken to using the dulux quick dry satinwood after a final rub down with 320 I wouldn't use a oil based top coat unless it was speced as they all yellow quickly now after the voc law changed


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## adlem

Ashtray said:


> I wouldn't use 80 for anything but shaping filler, 120 max for walls I really like the Norton mesh sanding pads available at b&q I would normally bang a 240 over the walls to knock the previous roller/brush marks off, I always caulk all internal corners followed by a coat of oil based undercoat to prevent crazing/cracking of the emulsion
> I always cut and roller one wall at a time keeping a wet edge on all paint is important for a flawless finish
> I have taken to using the dulux quick dry satinwood after a final rub down with 320 I wouldn't use a oil based top coat unless it was speced as they all yellow quickly now after the voc law changed


Trust me you need P80, sometimes harsher for walls after a DIY'er to get a smooth surface to start with, if I used 240 I'd be going through a roll per room. If you've done the room previously and it's done properly then you could get away with alight de-nib with 240.

The Dulux Trade Satinwood doesn't yellow anywhere near as much as gloss. It will still yellow on the insides of cupboards etc that are away from the sunlight. I've just been back to a job 4 years own and the woodwork looks perfect and has only discoloured a small amount. There was a major issue with yellowing when the limits were first dropped around 2010 but this has been rectified.

The water-based acrylics stay whiter, but they don't leave as nice a finish and can be a pain to apply especially for a DIY'er


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## kh904

adlem said:


> Tape up floor/carpet and paint woodwork. Make sure to prime any bare bits first. I tend to use oil-based Satinwood, 2 coats. Doesn't yellow as quick as gloss, is less shiny and has a more modern feel and look to it. The oil-based paints are far harder wearing than any acrylics I've come across.


I was also going to recommend this.
Satinwood is so much better than gloss imo as it doesn't go yellow as quick and has a more natural finish.


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## robertdon777

I still find satinwood yellows, I use acrylic now and nothing else....No Yellowing, No real Smell, Touch dry in 20 mins...sorted.

*Cutting in my bugbear: 
*
I've never seen a job done by hand that's good enough for me. So i always paint skirting/ceiling then paint the colour(walls), don't worry if you go a bit onto the ceiling/skirting (probably better if you do tbh). Then I tape over of the wall colour leaving a couple of mm down from the ceiling and a couple of mm up from the skirting. Then go over with your ceiling white/skirting white. This gives a crisp laser straight cutting in line even on uneven ceilings (like all of them).

Now i've done it this way for the past 7-8 years and would never go back. It may take a little longer but the cutting in looks like its been done by a machine...even dark grey against white looks as sharp and straight as a knife....nothing less will do now for me.


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## shane_ctr

adlem said:


> Trust me you need P80, sometimes harsher for walls after a DIY'er to get a smooth surface to start with, if I used 240 I'd be going through a roll per room. If you've done the room previously and it's done properly then you could get away with alight de-nib with 240.
> 
> The Dulux Trade Satinwood doesn't yellow anywhere near as much as gloss. It will still yellow on the insides of cupboards etc that are away from the sunlight. I've just been back to a job 4 years own and the woodwork looks perfect and has only discoloured a small amount. There was a major issue with yellowing when the limits were first dropped around 2010 but this has been rectified.
> 
> The water-based acrylics stay whiter, but they don't leave as nice a finish and can be a pain to apply especially for a DIY'er


This would make sense as my house was built in 2010 and most of the woodwork has gone yellow.

When you say sand the walls you mean all over yea? Also another quick question as the room is magnolia and its going orange i will be able to paint straight on top we done a couple of squares of grey paint before thinking about orange will it be ok to go straight over the top or should i cover them first with emulsion.

Sorry for the questions i overthink everything as i want to do the best job i can.:thumb:


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## adlem

Yeah sand the entire lot as it will get rid of any other lumps, bits of fluff, fat edges and thick/heavy roller marks or texted making for a better finish. 

As for the sample patches, give them a good rubbing over and run the roller over them a couple of times as you're doing the ceiling :thumb:

In future put any samples onto a piece of lining paper and cut it down once dry. This way you can move it around, fold it into corners/by windows etc and you have no patches to get over in future


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## Ashtray

robertdon777 said:


> I still find satinwood yellows, I use acrylic now and nothing else....No Yellowing, No real Smell, Touch dry in 20 mins...sorted.
> 
> *Cutting in my bugbear:
> *
> I've never seen a job done by hand that's good enough for me. So i always paint skirting/ceiling then paint the colour(walls), don't worry if you go a bit onto the ceiling/skirting (probably better if you do tbh). Then I tape over of the wall colour leaving a couple of mm down from the ceiling and a couple of mm up from the skirting. Then go over with your ceiling white/skirting white. This gives a crisp laser straight cutting in line even on uneven ceilings (like all of them).
> 
> Now i've done it this way for the past 7-8 years and would never go back. It may take a little longer but the cutting in looks like its been done by a machine...even dark grey against white looks as sharp and straight as a knife....nothing less will do now for me.


Yes me too that new paint frog tape has been a revelation for me I get everything done except the top coat on the woodwork tape up one full straight edge at a time get the satinwood on then peal off right after perfect everytime 
What tape are you using bud?


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## Soul boy 68

adlem said:


> Yeah sand the entire lot as it will get rid of any other lumps, bits of fluff, fat edges and thick/heavy roller marks or texted making for a better finish.
> 
> As for the sample patches, give them a good rubbing over and run the roller over them a couple of times as you're doing the ceiling :thumb:
> 
> In future put any samples onto a piece of lining paper and cut it down once dry. This way you can move it around, fold it into corners/by windows etc and you have no patches to get over in future


Machine sand or with a sanding block and what grade of sanding paper to use?, I just want to see as I am decorating my boys rooms and I have gone a little heavy with the roller and has produced some roller marks a little on the heavy side.


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## adlem

Soul boy 68 said:


> Machine sand or with a sanding block and what grade of sanding paper to use?, I just want to see as I am decorating my boys rooms and I have gone a little heavy with the roller and has produced some roller marks a little on the heavy side.


You can machine sand if the walls are really bad but I find they can cause more issues with the vibration, especially on older plaster/houses. I just use my sandpaper by hand mostly, folded into 3 and use the pressure from my hand and palm, bit easier for corners, round sockets etc and you can guarantee the walls are never perfectly straight. The machine will rip through any external edges exposing the metal corner strip usually as well. Use whatever works for you, we are all different and our techniques differ slightly

P80 should do the job, you might need a few pieces as they'll get worn and a fresher bit is always easier. Any harsher and you can leave more marks behind (like polishing) If you get any areas worn back to the old colour between coats just touch those in along with anything else you see that you've filled between coats and let this dry before final coating. If you've sanded it all down before your first coat just proceed as normal.

It's good practice to de-nib between your coats. Either with a bit of very worn P80 from earlier or something like 240/320. This will remove any lumps or bits you may have picked up or missed the first time, thick roller edges or excess texture and any additional filler you've put on. Touch anything up, allow to dry and continue as normal


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## slim_boy_fat

I have a cunning plan.......


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## adlem

shane_ctr said:


> Sorry for the questions i overthink everything as i want to do the best job i can.:thumb:


No problem, just take your time as prep is key! Pay enough attention to rubbing down and filling everything in the beginning (which does take a while) and then the painting is the straightforward and easy part and will go relatively quickly.

The biggest issue I find is customers who have 'decorated' an entire room in a day or weekend. To get the prep right and paint everything properly with two coats (sometimes they need 3) you're looking at 3-4 8hr days, sometimes longer depending on how old the property is, what state it's in and how much woodwork there is to do. To give you an idea, on the first day with all the rubbing down, filling and taping up sometimes I may just get a first coat on the ceiling towards the end of the day. If you have coving, if you can coat that up sooner then do, you can always cut the ceiling in and roll it a bit later but if the coving is done it doesn't hold you up for the first coat on the walls. Likewise leaving the top cutting in on the first coat on the walls can allow you to coat the walls up and fill anything you've spotted/missed whilst you're waiting for the ceiling to dry inbetween coats. It can be a little bit of a pain and takes a little thinking so you're busy and not waiting around for something to dry.


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## robertdon777

Ashtray said:


> Yes me too that new paint frog tape has been a revelation for me I get everything done except the top coat on the woodwork tape up one full straight edge at a time get the satinwood on then peal off right after perfect everytime
> What tape are you using bud?


Go to Brewers http://www.brewers.co.uk/branch-locator/map, its the pink stuff. I think it may be 3M but can't remember. its about £3.70 a roll.

I find it better than Frog tape, but the yellow frog is still good.


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## LSherratt

Decent brushes make a world of difference as already mentioned. Get yourself some quality angled brushes- it makes cutting in so much easier. I use Proform Picasso Oval Angled Brushes.



Wash out throughly with some fairly liquid and rinse after each use and they will last years if looked after.


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## shane_ctr

Guys been a bit busy at haven't got round to doing the room but set a couple of days a side to get this sorted. I have already prepared and filled any holes etc so just need to pick up paint today. Can you give me an idea of how much paint i will need please. The doors do not need glossing as oak, the window is UPVC its just skirtings, architraves and liners and window cill.

Thank you

ill be sure to post up before and afters


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## adlem

5l of white for your ceiling (2 coats)

I'd be tempted to go for 5l of wall colour. You were unsure on coverage before and that should give you just enough for 3 coats if needed. 2.5l might be a bit tight for 2 coats and you don't want to run out with a wall to go. You'll have some left for any touch-ups/ repair work as wel.

1l of Satinwood


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## shane_ctr

Brilliant thanks Adam, I'm going to my local Dulax trade centre so will get trade paint.

Bit nervous but hope its gonna look excellent.


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## shane_ctr

adlem said:


> 5l of white for your ceiling (2 coats)
> 
> I'd be tempted to go for 5l of wall colour. You were unsure on coverage before and that should give you just enough for 3 coats if needed. 2.5l might be a bit tight for 2 coats and you don't want to run out with a wall to go. You'll have some left for any touch-ups/ repair work as wel.
> 
> 1l of Satinwood


Thank you, Last question i hope, i have P80 all the wood work and the walls were i have repaired a couple of little holes the rest of the walls look ok and smooth would you recommend still giving them a little sand down? :thumb:


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## adlem

No problem, yes I would still sand over the whole wall (you don't have to go mad) It just gets rid of any small nibs or lumps/bits of fluff, excess roller texture etc. Better to do it now than notice a few bits as you put your first coat on and having to run over them and cutting through your first coat


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## LSherratt

I'm about to start redecorating my entire 2 bed BTL property.

I've bought Leyland contract matt white for the ceilings and walls and I've gone all posh for the woodwork; Dulux trade diamond eggshell... £55 for 5L but has fantastic reviews.

The whole house is grotty. Every surface needs sanding and caulking. Luckily I've got a Makita battery powered orbital sander so I'm going to use grade 80 paper with a light touch on the walls and I'll sand the skirting by hand with sheets of paper. I'm thinking 80 again for the skirting as it's really bad. Then caulk the top of the skirting and any other bits, polyfill any screw holes and leave over night. Then sand the polyfill bits and skirting lightly with 120, sugar soap everything and leave overnight again to dry, then paint 1 coat. Sand 120 everywhere after the first coat then paint the final second coat. Maybe sand this final coat 240(?) I'll see how it looks. 

I'm sure that plan is adequate but correct me if I'm wrong anywhere.


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## LSherratt

Anyone? Come on!


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## Mike_Wizz

Seems okay I guess :-/ are you not worried the 80 grit will show through even though you plan to paint,sand,paint,sand... would it not be easier to sand 80-120-240 then paint ??? 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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