# how to get a shot like this (soft water)



## nudda (Oct 28, 2008)

can anyone please tell me how to do this directly with the camera ? I;ve got a Nikon D80

Thanks


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## Justin182 (Jul 18, 2006)

Im pretty sure you need a long shutter speed. Few seconds maybe


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## technics100 (Jul 9, 2008)

It's just a longish exposure time. Just put the D80 on A and select the smallest apeture f/22 and see what length of shutter speed you have. 1-2 secs should be enough. You might need a ND filter to reduce the amount of light and make the shutter stay open for longer.


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## Gary-360 (Apr 26, 2008)

Agree with Technics100 here.

Smallest aperture you have (F22 or smaller), 1/2s-1s shutter speed and possibly an ND4 filter. Or a polariser may help too.
Also, stick the ISO down to 100 on the D80 

Gary


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## -ROM- (Feb 23, 2007)

There's no need to stop down to f22, difraction would set in at that aperture it's just not needed.

approx f8/11 with 1/8th shutter speed and ISO 100 will give you the desired effect, depending on how fast the water is flowing of course. The main problem you'll have with longer shutter speeds is the leave and foliage will move if there is a slight breeze.


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## Stevel (Sep 26, 2007)

Yep as above and not forgetting the tripod.

Took this one in Devon. 3 seconds or thereabouts for the shutter speed.


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## -ROM- (Feb 23, 2007)

Stevel said:


> Yep as above and not forgetting the tripod.
> 
> Took this one in Devon. 3 seconds or thereabouts for the shutter speed.


1 second @ f14 according to the exif info.


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## Stevel (Sep 26, 2007)

rmorgan84 said:


> 1 second @ f14 according to the exif info.


Oh well I was close. :lol:


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## nudda (Oct 28, 2008)

Thanks folks !
Will give it a shot


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

my fave ever with the blurred water is this one, at 0.8 secs










but with slower moving water you'll need longer exposures like this one, which was 2.5 secs










and this was 3.2 secs










best to compose to leave out the sky if possible as you'll usually end up with it being totally blown out with these shots


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## ipodsandguns (Jul 31, 2008)

also when taking use a monopod or neal on one knee and rest yoru cam on it, your cam needs to be as stable as possible


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## Lloyd71 (Aug 21, 2008)

The original one is my photo, I ramped it up to f/22 and used a circular polariser to enable a slower shutter speed, it was 1-2 seconds IIRC.


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## Rickyboy (Oct 14, 2008)

Really nice pics guys.

I'm about to get my first camera - can shots like that be acheived using a bridge camera? I didnt want to splash out on a dslr without any knowledge of photography at all.


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## Lloyd71 (Aug 21, 2008)

Rickyboy said:


> Really nice pics guys.
> 
> I'm about to get my first camera - can shots like that be acheived using a bridge camera? I didnt want to splash out on a dslr without any knowledge of photography at all.


Bridge cameras should have a manual mode that will allow you to do these kind of shots, so yes. If it's a bright day then you'll need a filter to darken the image though, and not all bridge cameras have a filter thread.


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## Rickyboy (Oct 14, 2008)

Lloyd71 said:


> Bridge cameras should have a manual mode that will allow you to do these kind of shots, so yes. If it's a bright day then you'll need a filter to darken the image though, and not all bridge cameras have a filter thread.


Thanks matey. I'm amazed at how much there is to learn about using my camera to do things like this. I always assumed it was a case of point and click and then rest was photoshop! Only 4 more days to wait until I can finally use the bloody thing!


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## -ROM- (Feb 23, 2007)

just get a DSLR, they aren't much more expensive than a decent bridge camera and have the full auto mode just like a bridge so you can find your feet.

Loads of people go down the bridge route then before they've had it 6 months get a DSLR, daveKG is one examle that springs to mind.


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## Lloyd71 (Aug 21, 2008)

rmorgan84 said:


> just get a DSLR, they aren't much more expensive than a decent bridge camera and have the full auto mode just like a bridge so you can find your feet.
> 
> Loads of people go down the bridge route then before they've had it 6 months get a DSLR, daveKG is one examle that springs to mind.


I'd agree with this, you can pick up a good 2nd hand entry level DSLR for the same price as a brand new bridge camera. Then you've got the auto mode aswell as a load of other features aswell as the usual full manual controls, plus you'll have the option of changing lenses. You can't do that on a bridge camera.


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## Rickyboy (Oct 14, 2008)

yeah I see what you guys mean. A dslr might have been the right option to go for but I've never actually owned a camera that isn't a phone too and a dslr seemed like too big of a leap from a nokia n95! 

The one I've gone for is a Fuji S8100fd - seems to get mixed reviews but generally is meant to be pretty good as a 'start from scratch' bridge camera. As long as I can take some great pics like the ones in this thread then I'm happy.

Sorry to the OP for taking this thread slightly off track!


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## PaulGTI (Oct 21, 2006)

^^^^^

I have had chance to get to grips with my bros old canon d400...it seems a bit intimidating at first, its all new like a new language.

But its worth sticking with as it all seems to come together quite quickly, especially if you have time to "youtube" for useful info and read a few forums

Have a look at his vids 




and read this forum http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/

If all you want is good quality pics, a bridge would be good such as the fuji finepix s5800 or s1000, but if you intend to study photography and want to get good, then a D-SLR, even a cheaper one is the way to go.

(Be aware that people seem polarised towards either canon or nikon. I like canon cus its what my bro uses and what I have go used to, but get yourself to Jessops and see what fits you best before parting with the beer tokens)


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## Rickyboy (Oct 14, 2008)

Super helpful video mate, thank you! I will have a gander at the talkphotography forum too. Cheers.


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