# Wax Holograms... any tips?



## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

I've had these a couple of times (noticed about a week after I've applied some wax/paste sealant). Generally in bright sun/ under dust.

Application has been as per the general method. Apply evenly with a yellow round foam applicator, wait for it to cure (finger swipe method), then buffed off with a short napp buffing towel (1-2 of these).

Come off no problem after a 2nd wash and a bit of a once over after drying. 

So, should I:

Use more cloths for buffing (i.e they're getting clogged)... or get some new/better ones?

Apply thinner layers?

Something else avoidable?

It's just what happens sometimes?

Waxes concerned have been FK1000 and Purple Haze Pro. It did rain when I was applying the purple haze pro.

Buffing cloths are the yellow (black edged ones). Have been washed/used a fair few times. 

Thoughts on a post card.


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## Laurie.J.M (Jun 23, 2011)

Applying thinner layers will help and is more economical so your wax will go further, try to avoid applying in direct sunlight or when the car is really hot to touch, if necessary wait until the evening or put the car in the garage to wax it. You could try different clothes, some waxes buff of better with a short pile cloth and other with a deep pile one, I sometimes buff off with a normal cloth and then use an extra plush one for the final wipe.

Hope this helps.


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## PaulinLincs (Jan 16, 2011)

I wax and buff off then an hour or so later use Zaino Z6 detailer and a fresh cloth and have not had any problems since. I cant comment on the use of any other detailer as i only use the Z6.


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## Ninja59 (Feb 17, 2009)

i buff at the time following application around 10 mins then do my second layer ensuring thin layers at all times, then a few hours after then go over it again with a pure QD without added extras (additional protection etc)


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## SiliconS (Jun 23, 2010)

Laurie.J.M said:


> You could try different clothes


Yeah - try wearing a suit next time, or at least a shirt and tie. 

(Just kidding, Laurie.J.M )


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## Superspec (Feb 25, 2011)

Thin layers. Do it when it's cool and not in direct sunlight. Follow the instructions on the container.

When you wash the car if it's warm and sunny it can reactivate the oils in the wax and that can cause holograms as you dry. I find a quick once over with a QD and a shorter pile cloth works wonders when it happens. 

HTH


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## PaulTheo (Sep 26, 2010)

I have only suffered with this when I tried to wax in direct sunlight on a warm car. But luckily thats not very often in this country


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Thinner layers will help as said, as will not using buffing towels that might be overdue a wash, but I think the main thing you need to be doing is making sure the wax is properly ready for buffing off. This is often a cause of smeary wax holograms noticed some time after application/removal and it makes sense when you think about what's actually happening. With your removal/buffing cloth, if the wax layer is not sufficiently dry/bonded/cured - call it what you will - then all you're doing is 'reapplying' some of the wax rather than actually removing the residue (i.e. the 'wasted' part that's not bonded to the car). With deft application techniques this 'waste' should be minimised anyway as all those cloudy circular patterns on a car that's just been waxed is simply waste product. So, as you _think_ you're buffing it off, what you're actually doing, if indeed the wax isn't ready, is making your buff towel a secondary applicator and spreading a very, very thin film of wax over the surface again. When this layer does cure, you can then see some of the hologram like 'whispers' over the surface that then needs another buff off.

Now it's no hardship to buff off a second time of course, and some waxes do recommend another 'visit' a few hours later on for a brisk, light buff, and that's fine in a controlled environment - a garage in other words. Outside, not so much, as common sense will tell you that in the interim period, any number of little airborne surface contaminants could have settled on the paint that you need to re-buff, so best to avoid having to do this if at all possible.

In essence, a few carefully selected swipe tests around various points on the car, trying to get the thinnest possible layer on you can (often you don't need to _see_ the cloudy residue dried on the panel to get a layer of wax on there. As a 'test' apply what might seem like a 'dry' applicator pad that you'd be ready to dip back in the pot onto some glass. If you see the tell tale 'greasy' film on there, then you're laying wax down on the paint, even though you might not be able to see it - especially hard on lighter colours of course. Also, knowing your wax helps as obviously some are ready after a few minutes, or as soon as you've finished applying to a panel, and some can accommodate the entire being done in one go.


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## nothelle (Apr 28, 2010)

Wax application using D/A reduces holograms/smearing by a great deal for me


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## Laurie.J.M (Jun 23, 2011)

SiliconS said:


> Yeah - try wearing a suit next time, or at least a shirt and tie.
> 
> (Just kidding, Laurie.J.M )


Damn predictive text, I really need to check things before posting them :lol:.


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## Sirmally2 (Feb 28, 2011)

I take off with the long pile side of an MF... then go over it with a CG wooly mammoth cloth, works wonders for me


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Broken record - but thin layers are a must! I always finish with a QD wipe down. No holograms what so ever.


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

Thanks for your replies everyone!

Indeed, I could probably do with trying to work in thinner layers... as well as changing cloths or more often (i.e using more to complete the job). I expect it doesn't help that when I've decided to strip/re-wax, I'm rather at the mercy of the weather... as I'm always outside. So, whilst I try to pick my day carefully... there can be sun, rain, heat.

As mentioned, it's not a huge issue in the grand scheme of things, as on 2nd wash, a little going over sees things as they should be. But there's always room for refinement/improvement.

:thumb:


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## AKFM (Dec 26, 2010)

when it does hologram, whats best way to get rid of them? mines holgrammed in the bright sunlight and it looks terrible


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

AKFM said:


> when it does hologram, whats best way to get rid of them? mines holgrammed in the bright sunlight and it looks terrible


I'm guessing its some extra "curing" after buffing. When, who knows... it probably is only visible in direct sunlight, so it doesn't always allow you to know exactly when if you're not watching it with a light source for a time afterwards. I did wonder if a sunny/warm day after waxing in cold weather brings a few more solvents out and could cause it also - so that'd be environment dependent.

If its just wax, a 2nd buff after the next wash does it. If its hologram like stratches in your paint... that'll need some finishing polish, or some sort of filler product/cleaner wax/All in one like Super Resin Polish.


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## AKFM (Dec 26, 2010)

cheers mate for that reply, i thought i might need to get some polish out. But id have to wax it again after the polish haha. Someone explain the finger method for wax please?


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## mighty82 (May 13, 2009)

I always go over the whole car with a misting bottle with water and a microfiber cloth right after waxing. It takes care of the leftover oils. It's what the collinite people recommended i'd do too.


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## AKFM (Dec 26, 2010)

i didnt know that, good advice that! what is in the misting bottle?


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## mighty82 (May 13, 2009)

Water  I suppose a QD or a ONR mixture would do too.


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## AKFM (Dec 26, 2010)

so apply wax, allow to haze, wipe off then QD all over?


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## mighty82 (May 13, 2009)

Yep. Although I prefer water as it doesn't contain any chemicals that will affect the curing. As long as no water is left lying on the surface while the wax is curing, youre fine.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Old thread but l have noticed this on mine. I waxed car with 476 two weeks ago, been washed once since but noticed tonight in direct sun under the dust there is lots of holograms, caused by waxing. I have no qd but can get some will this remove them. Haven't used a qd before will it affect beading etc?

Ps only on one side of car


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

It's been a while since I started this thread (and sorry, I missed your reply).

I find with wax holograms part of it is applying a bit thick, and also trying to use one cloth to do too much (I generally keep at least three handy of buffing wax).

What I will say though is that a wash, dry and rebuff will remove them. If they're still there after a wash perhaps it is marring? Or does it buff off still?


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## CleanCar99 (Dec 30, 2011)

Glad i found this, just noticed the holagrams on my car after waxing. Wash and buff coming up ..


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## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

apply thinner layers, and what I always do is give the car another quick wash (no jetwasher). that way, all the residu will be washed away.
also, if the paint is old (more commonly with black and red) it will be affected by UV and will have smaller pits in it, that have more wax in them and you can't reach it all when buffing. then in hotter weather, it will become more liquid and you will see it some more. only option then is polishing.


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## CleanCar99 (Dec 30, 2011)

Mine is worse that that. Not sure how i messed it up, but i can write my name in the residue!


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