# Pre Fab Garage - interior



## burger (Feb 10, 2009)

So I have just bought my first house, it has a standard size garage with a decent drive

It's a prefab garage that I would say is 20 years old but it lets in a lot of air between the roof and walls anyone that has a garage like this will know what I'm talking about.

Does anyone have any pictures of pre can garage that have been done up decorated etc etc? 

Just looking for a few ideas


----------



## robby71 (Jun 4, 2006)

This is mine - 24ft x 10ft, built 4 years ago
I painted the floor with grey floor paint which lifted after a few weeks  i then cleaned and sealed it before repainting with an epoxy floor paint which also started to lift after a month or so?
I then managed to get some pvc floor tiles for a bargain £90 on ebay (all bnib) which although being dark make the garage look so much better.
Last year after painted the walls white from new i fitted battons before using polystyrene as insulation and fixing moisture resistant chipboard flooring, i can't find a white paint that will cover these as they all (i'm told) will soak in so i'm thinking of fixing white chipboards on top to brighten up the walls?
The roof was battoned and Kingspan/ Celotex insulation was fitted to help with the cold in winters.
I bought the units (Stanley units) from Halfords + Argos a few years ago for a previous garage and fitted one of the chipboard flooring sheets on top as a workbench with some spare pvc floortiles on top which can be wiped clean.
A couple of months ago i bought a de-humidifier to run through the winter as it still got damp/ freezing in there, this has helped a lot with both problems.
So job for this year is to fit white chipboards to walls and maybe add a couple more strip lights in the centre of the roof as i just have 2 each side and 1 at the back.

I was thinking of filling the eves with expanding foam to keep it sealed but this causes more condensation as the damp has nowhere to go and you need some air circulating throughout.


----------



## razorak (Jan 9, 2012)

robby, what a sweet place you have there mate, very cool.


----------



## robby71 (Jun 4, 2006)

Decided to sell the tall unit and replace it with a small 1 to match the others so i can extend the worktop.
If you're interested £70 collected (Huddersfield)

identical to this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221225786...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1394wt_1085


----------



## blader1611 (Mar 2, 2012)

Robby,

i have one of these type garages and you cant drill in to the walls as they are full of large aggregate reinforcement so have you used a "no nails" type adhesive to stick the batons on the walls?


----------



## robby71 (Jun 4, 2006)

blader1611 said:


> Robby,
> 
> i have one of these type garages and you cant drill in to the walls as they are full of large aggregate reinforcement so have you used a "no nails" type adhesive to stick the batons on the walls?


I cheated 
You can buy fixings but i used the bolts holding the panels together - drill holes in battons spaced same as bolts in garage, slide batons onto bolts from side. If your bolts are long enough then you might get a washer and nut on the ends but mine weren't so i didn't use them.
As the battons are fitted from the side they are secure anyway as they wont fall forwards with the weight or sideways.

You can see in the 4th photo the batons are at the sides of the wall joints - they dont stick out as if fixed from the front so save a little room as well


----------



## blader1611 (Mar 2, 2012)

Thats quite a clever solution. Sadly the bolts on my have all been trimmed of. What fixings can you buy that work on the concrete slabs? Been looking for something like that so i cant hang stuff on walls. I no nailed chip board sheets in between the joints but they are pretty slim and only useful for hanging the bike tools.
Did you screw the chipboard to the batons.


----------



## robby71 (Jun 4, 2006)

I did see (quite a while back) some right angled fixings that used the bolts to secure, these then gave a small face where you could fix wood,etc - can't remember where sold these now?

The batons i used were 2" deep and 1.25" wide so are wide enough for a screw without splitting the wood and deep enough to secure the boards without risk of them falling forwards (although being T+G they wouldn't have done).

You could always but longer bolts to replace the ones trimmed off?
Cut batons to length, use touch up paint on the ends of the bolts, push baton against bolt ends and you have the marks where to drill the holes through for the bolts


----------

