# Dealing with rust



## Stratf01 (Jun 22, 2018)

Looking for advice on dealing with rust please 
I'm guessing that if the rust, say on a door, is only on surface this can be ground down to good metal then straight to filler without any rust treatment?

What if rust has gone right through?
If a small hole less than say an inch can filler be used or do I need to weld a small patch on?

Any tips on the subject hugely appreciated thank you


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Stratf01 said:


> Looking for advice on dealing with rust please
> I'm guessing that if the rust, say on a door, is only on surface this can be ground down to good metal then straight to filler without any rust treatment?
> 
> What if rust has gone right through?
> ...


T
o answer each of your points in order:-

Surface rust on the door.
- Personally, I'd take this back to bare metal, and treat with a rust treatment before applying filler or primer. Bilt Hamber does a range of rust treatments, such as Deox Gel, Hydrate 80, epoxy mastic.

Perforated panel.
- Again, personally, bring back to bare metal, treat with rust treatment, weld any perforations and prep the surface with rust prevention. I don't think too many on here would advocate filling rust perforations with filler.

Those are my thoughts, some of the otger guys who are restoring cars in the projects section will hopefully be along to offer their views. It may be worth having a look in there to see what course of action they've taken in prepping their cars for paint.

Cooks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## macca666 (Mar 30, 2010)

I'd agree with Cooks if it definitely is only surface rust and you can get it down to clean metal then I'd use the likes of hydrate 80 before a skim of filler then paint. Deox gel is to remove rust so IMO no real need if you've got it to clean metal. Epoxy mastic is paint so I wouldn't be using that on the likes of a door (I used Epoxy mastic on my internal floor but wouldnt use it on external bodywork though can be used on the underside 8f needed) the reason I'd use hydrate 80 is just in case there's any very small pinholes of rust it'll get in to these and convert it to a stable metal.

If there's holes you'll be lucky if it's only an inch as generally when it's perforated you'll have rust around the hole which you'll need to remove generally making the hole bigger. If you don't cut it all out it'll just come back :thumb:


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## Stratf01 (Jun 22, 2018)

Thanks very much guys. Good advice there! 
I have hydrate 80 so that's what I will use. 

Cooks when you say rust prevention after any welding work what sort of products are you meaning? 
Etching primer or?

Thanks very much again guys!


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## Harry_p (Mar 18, 2015)

A hole on a non structural panel like a front wing can be bridged with a fibreglass strand filler before using normal filler and paint, but you would need to completely remove the rust from both sides of the panel otherwise it will creep its way round from the back under your repair. You'd also need to dent the sides of the hole in slightly so the filler can sit in the crater rather than try and fill across a level panel.

I used a similar method to remove some side repeater holes from a pair of wings and it survived many years of daily use with no signs of cracking or dropping out.


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