# Lacquer/Clear coat repair



## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Hi guys,

I was cleaning my other halves 2002 red Polo over the weekend and seemingly removed an area of clear coat. This was news to me as I thought it was single stage!

Anyway, on closer inspection it appears that there were a couple of blisters and the PW just blasted it clean off, so now I need to repair it!

What I've got is an area of unprotected paint (looking matt) on body work that joins the roof (over the windows) between the B and C pillar and I need some advice on how to best repair this.

There is still a bit of flakey clear coat around the edge so I was thinking I'd have to sand this back a bit with something like 800 wet and dry until I reached and area that was stable. Is that correct?

Would I need to repaint the Matt area as well or would I then (after cleaning it down with some IPA) mask off the area and spray some rattle can clear over the affected area? Couple of coats I suspect?

And then how would I finish it down? Let it dry cure for a week and then give it a hit with a spot pad on the rotary, medium pad and some megs 205?

Thanks in advance.


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Also - I was thinking of using this Lacquer as it's 2k Aerosol Motorcycle and Car 2k Clear Lacquer High Solids 400ml PETROL RESISTANT: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike


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## Tintin (Sep 3, 2006)

Not sure about the process but I think I have seen other 2k aerosol laquers on eBay that others have recommended like Pro XL and Mipa. Bear in mind that it is recommended that you should least have a decent mask even though it is only a small amount of 2k you are spraying.


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Thanks TinTin. I need to buy a good mask anyway for some sawing/loft work and I've got these atm http://www.diy.com/departments/bq-d...cts-against-fine-dust-particles/190206_BQ.prd but I may step up to this http://www.diy.com/departments/3m-dust-mask-protection-against-gas-vapour/172541_BQ.prd


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## Tintin (Sep 3, 2006)

If you are happy spending £22, you might as well get a Gerson mask that is OK to use with 2k for a limited number of hours.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/331362924259?_mwBanner=1

I should add that protection from vapour in the air and particulates from sawing, sanding etc are different things really, but would think that cheap disposables would be OK for sawdust whereas you do need a decent mask for spraying paint in my opinion, especially if you have asthma, or are the kind of person who finds 'paint gets on your chest'.


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Cheers TinTin.

Hopefully there will be some advice on my prep process too.


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

not sure that clear is true 2k , think its like a ready mixed air drying one 

the real 2k ones have a button underneath to activate the hardner , look at standox spraymax for example


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## Tintin (Sep 3, 2006)

I think Spraymax is the one I have seen recommended. Couple of user reviews here. Sounds like a good mask is a must though:

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/779608-2-part-clear-coat-aerosol-awesome.html

http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/34-tips-tricks/8890-spraymax-2k-clearcoat.html


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

That 2 pound mask is useless for spraying anything, isocyanate will go right through it.

Your method is ok. Usually you would lay down new basecoat before clear even for a spot repair. But you might get away with just a reclear. You will need to feather out the edges of your repair (i.e. new clear) starting with P800 working up to P2000 and you are probably best just going over the whole panel with the buffer.


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

yeah theyre very good , slightly harder to buy in the uk

i ended up getting mine from ebay.de at the time


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

rich9 said:


> That 2 pound mask is useless for spraying anything, isocyanate will go right through it.
> 
> Your method is ok. Usually you would lay down new basecoat before clear even for a spot repair. But you might get away with just a reclear. You will need to feather out the edges of your repair (i.e. new clear) starting with P800 working up to P2000 and you are probably best just going over the whole panel with the buffer.


Cheers Rich,

When you refer to feathering out the clear, do you mean after you've applied it (to blend in the edges of the new with the old) or in the preparation stage?

Also, I believe the 2k clear is in this list - http://www.ukpaints.co.uk/spraymax.php?subsearch=spraymax

Could you suggest a suitable mask?

If this is getting uber expensive I may just got for 1k, it'll last us out I'm sure.


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

Yes I mean the new clear edges. The old clear will be fine with P800 on the edges for feathering, in fact if you go finer the new clear won't stick well.

The 3M mask you linked is commonly used by smart repairers, but there are different versions and I'm not sure B&Q have the right one. The Gerson mask Tintin suggested is fine. As long as it's ABEK rated for vapour and P2 for particulates you should be ok.

1k clear would be OK for a year or two. It would just require probably 5 coats as it's much thinner, and may need a bit more polishing now and then.


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Hmmm, I see what you're saying - the 2k does seem to be better all round doesn't it. Would you expect to do a couple of coats of that?

And thanks for letting me know what ratings I'm looking for with the mask, that's very much appreciated I can tell you!!


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

2 or 3 coats with a 2k aerosol should be ok.

There is no doubt 2k is better in every way, but it carries major health hazard.


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

rich9 said:


> 2 or 3 coats with a 2k aerosol should be ok.
> 
> There is no doubt 2k is better in every way, but it carries major health hazard.


Yeah I hear ya - I will definitely get a suitable respirator (a worth while investment really isn't it, it'll help with any situation where dust is produced such as sanding, installing loft insulation and the like).

As I'm going to have to do this outside (no garage facilities unfortunately) I was wondering what the best way would be to keep contaminants from getting in to the drying clear coat. Any ideas?


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

I have done a fair bit of spraying outside. I just wait for a nice day with no wind. Make sure the car is very well covered with masking paper or newspaper as the overspray will travel a surprising distance. Then again I use a proper gun so a lot more material is being put out.

If you do get anything in the paint it's best to leave it unless it is huge. Just de-nib it when the paint is dry.


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Cheers Rich (and to all the other posters), you've been a great help.


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