# SRP I have been doing it wrong all this time



## nobbles (Feb 23, 2013)

Usually I apply like wax and by hand, but read about working it until it goes transparent. So black hex with a da, speed 2. I worked it like a polish and it came up a treat. Snh to apply on top. Job done.


----------



## alxg (May 3, 2009)

Just shows a little change in technique makes a huge difference; how many of us used to use their Perfect Polishing Cloths and really cake it on?? Not just me I'm sure.....


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

nobbles said:


> Usually I apply like wax and by hand, but read about working it until it goes transparent. So black hex with a da, speed 2. I worked it like a polish and it came up a treat. Snh to apply on top. Job done.


Polishing isn't something people pick up on their own in the first try, I was doing it wrong for years too. Unless someone shows you first hand in person, it's usually a game of trial and error until some nice clear instructions come along.


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Well maybe manufactures need to take some if the blame
Apply librally with a soft cloth then buff to a high gloss finish
Yep ok brilliant instructions there. They spend millions on developing a decent product only for it to get slated and trashed by people that applied it too thick or didnt leave it to set up properly.


----------



## Derek Mc (Jun 27, 2006)

I have had great results with SRP by changing to a sponge applicator wet, I find the dust is minimal and the end result excellent, as others say it is all really trial and error at times.


----------



## Guest (Feb 15, 2015)

Remember, the composition of SRP has changed recently. If applied by hand, there was no real right or wrong way. You applied - buffed - you got a glossy car. That's what you paid for.


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Its not just srp though is it Most if not all manufactures put minimal instructions on usage


----------



## Paul S (Jan 27, 2015)

Applying the perfect amount of polish to get the required action is very much something that comes with experience IMO, too little or too much even by small amounts compromises the cutting action significantly, and this is very difficult to describe to a learner. As with most things in life, practise makes perfect..


----------



## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

I have found the SRP doesn't appear to fill, unless you work it in quite well. I found that MF polish pads give a far better result than sponge polish applicators. Also good results by cutting a decent length of the old fashioned polishing cloth on a roll, and then folding that to make a thick pad which you can put some bodyweight onto. 

If you just wipe SRP on, spread it round, then wipe it off it wont do much at all.

Am tempted to get a DA and use SRP that way on the flat panels and do the curves by hand - that way my arms wont be hanging off !!


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

As you say gleemspray.
AG KNOW this all too well but they DONT put it in the instructions for use leaving newbies in the dark as to how to get the best out of it.
I spose im lucky having been taught old skool 20and some years ago and got beaten with a stick for not "trying" to apply and buff with one cloth ( that is apply the polish until it disappears then turn it and lightly buff) then when the car is done buff with another cloth.
Applying by hand is no different to applying by machine in as much as you HAVE to work the polish. (The biggest fall down for newbies to machining because they dont do it by hand to that stage) all a da does is mimic your hand just at 3000 OBM and doesnt get tired.


----------



## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

I love SRP and it does amazing things to old or tired paint, but I just feel bloody knackered by the time I go around the car properly with it 

Great when you buy an older motor and everyone is suggesting T-Cut, but you know SRP will work some magic.

Like the idea of using a DA for the big, flat panels like doors, roof and bonnet and then I will have enough energy left to finish it properly by hand. 

I feel more relaxed about using a filler polish rather than a cutting polish too.


----------



## Paul S (Jan 27, 2015)

AllenF said:


> Applying by hand is no different to applying by machine in as much as you HAVE to work the polish.


Yes, you have to work the polish, 'apply' is the wrong word when discussing polishing :thumb: Same rules apply when machining regarding quantity though, maybe even more so!


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Agreed but in my limited vocabulary apply is a good term.
Administer or maybe even anoint would be a better term but then people question it
Yeah anoint it is
anoint, spread on, rub in, 
So there we are we now ANOINT the polish to the car and then APPLY a sealant then ADMINISTER a wax coating over if desired


----------



## Damo80 (Mar 22, 2014)

I have just used a rotary for the first time this week and practiced on the wife's cmax using SRP on a white pad with brilliant results. I think I even used less product in the process


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

So you christened your rotary and anointed the wifes car 
Pictures???????



God this is getting religious isnt it


----------



## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

AllenF said:


> God this is getting religious isnt it


Very Good, I see what you did there !!


----------



## Damo80 (Mar 22, 2014)

I'll take some tomorrow Allen before and after a coat of topaz


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

GleemSpray said:


> I have found the SRP doesn't appear to fill, unless you work it in quite well. I found that MF polish pads give a far better result than sponge polish applicators. Also good results by cutting a decent length of the old fashioned polishing cloth on a roll, and then folding that to make a thick pad which you can put some bodyweight onto.
> 
> If you just wipe SRP on, spread it round, then wipe it off it wont do much at all.
> 
> Am tempted to get a DA and use SRP that way on the flat panels and do the curves by hand - that way my arms wont be hanging off !!


You can work SRP quite a lot and not run into problems. Unless you have a BMW i8 I would skip hand application entirely when possible.

I'm about to do my write up on AIO products as soon as I get my car prepped.


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

With srp the same as all those "type" products you have to work it RIGHT in no point slapping it on wiping it off. You have to keep rubbing until shine starts to appear THEN leave to dry THEN buff.
Its not a mud pack that the missus uses lol


----------



## e60530i (Apr 18, 2013)

I've learned a few things reading this thread and intend to implement them. I've always liked SRP but now realise I haven't been using it to its full potential. Thanks


----------



## aeronic (Jan 29, 2013)

Sheep said:


> You can work SRP quite a lot and not run into problems. Unless you have a BMW i8 I would skip hand application entirely when possible.
> 
> I'm about to do my write up on AIO products as soon as I get my car prepped.


Why the comment about the i8? Is it because it's aluminium?? I only ask as I was intending to use SRP on my caravan and was considering a DA.


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

For those would like to use SRP with a DA, try their Glass Polish. Applying with a polishing pad makes a huge difference


----------



## Autoglym (Apr 10, 2008)

Hi AllenF,

Just wanted to pick up on a couple of points you raised.



AllenF said:


> Well maybe manufactures need to take some if the blame
> Apply librally with a soft cloth then buff to a high gloss finish
> Yep ok brilliant instructions there. They spend millions on developing a decent product only for it to get slated and trashed by people that applied it too thick or didnt leave it to set up properly.


We have never recommended that Super Resin Polish is applied liberally. This would not bring about the best results from this product. If anything, the majority of our products work best if less is used, HD Wax, Aqua Wax spring to mind. We try to remind people it is easier to add more product if required, than remove any excess. Most of the 'complaints' we get from customers can be traced back to over application. When we get them to try it again with less, they are usually pleased with the result. We try to instill the message that "a thin, even layer" is best and try and use this in our videos and instruction where appropriate. (It wouldn't be appropriate for a shampoo for example)



AllenF said:


> As you say gleemspray.
> AG KNOW this all too well but they DONT put it in the instructions for use leaving newbies in the dark as to how to get the best out of it.
> I spose im lucky having been taught old skool 20and some years ago and got beaten with a stick for not "trying" to apply and buff with one cloth ( that is apply the polish until it disappears then turn it and lightly buff) then when the car is done buff with another cloth.
> Applying by hand is no different to applying by machine in as much as you HAVE to work the polish. (The biggest fall down for newbies to machining because they dont do it by hand to that stage) all a da does is mimic your hand just at 3000 OBM and doesnt get tired.


We include all of the information that we can, without a) running out of space and b) overwhelming the user with a solid wall of tiny text. We are confident that by following the instructions on the label people will get an excellent result, the instructions can be further understood by watching one of the product application videos which actually show people an appropriate amount of product to apply and the technique of how to use it if they are unsure.

For example this is the most recent set of instructions from our rear label:

1.	Wash and dry the paintwork. 
2.	Shake well and pour a small amount onto a polish applicator.
3.	Apply a thin layer to the paintwork in overlapping circles to ensure even coverage. Increase pressure over any marks, scratches or dull patches. Allow to dry. Do not apply to unpainted rubber or plastic trim.
4.	Buff with a Hi-Tech Finishing Cloth.

Regarding machine use with SRP, we have taken the decision that significant damage can be done with a machine by an untrained, gung-ho user going to work on unprepared surfaces. How many swirled up, hologramed black cars have you seen after someone jumped in head first after picking up their first machine polisher? Besides, the correct preparation steps that are required before safely machine polishing a surface are far too long to fit on the back of a 325ml bottle of Super Resin. That is not to say that SRP will not produce great results when applied by machine but it will also produce great results by hand. There are lots of examples on this forum of the finish SRP can produce by hand, and I'd hope you agree it is pretty good. We also know that the vast majority of people that purchase this product use it are not looking for machine applied products. For that reason we only explain how to use the product by hand.

I hope you don't mind this rather long reply. I do understand the frustrations of not being able to get the best out of a product, especially if you feel that the manufacturer could be telling you more as you experiment and find new techniques yourself. However, seeing it from the other side and understanding all of the legal information that is required which is jockeying for space with the description of what the product is and the the instructions of how to use it, you are limited with your overall word count. We also don't want to end up with a block of text that looks far too much effort to read, so you have to strike a balance. We would never omit any important information that would bring about damage or a bad customer experience though.


----------



## Damo80 (Mar 22, 2014)

On that note, here's what a gung-ho novice has done with SRP on a rotary followed with AS Topaz


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Not at all @autoglym.
I was having a dig at you lot personally ( sorry if it seemed that way) 
So many waxes and polishes you get nowerdays simply state apply to car leave to dry buff off with a soft lint free cloth.
I know ag do a booklet to go with the consumer range (or you used to with a red volvo LOL thats going back some) maybe worth looking at running that promo of sticking them to the bottles again??
Definatly agree about less is more but thats experience that tells you either work it harder or leave it to flash and reapply. The newbie to the art of polishing will just cake it on like its royal icing and wonder how some of us pros can do as many cars as we do with a sample bottle .


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

aeronic said:


> Why the comment about the i8? Is it because it's aluminium?? I only ask as I was intending to use SRP on my caravan and was considering a DA.


Because it has lots of very hard to reach places. Use a machine as much as possible, when done right there is no downside (unless hand polishing is your workout).


----------



## RICH2508 (Jan 14, 2007)

Won some SRP in the recent manufacturers competition, when it arrives look forward to trying it with my DA on our Hyper Blue Mini Cooper S that we just picked up yesterday. Have used SRP for 20+ Yrs on and off, but only ever applied lightly by hand and usually just on Solid Red paint.


----------



## Alfa male (Jun 16, 2009)

So how do you apply SRP properly then?


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

Alfa male said:


> So how do you apply SRP properly then?


The same way you apply any polish. You don't need to heat it up like a compound or something with abbrasives but work it till clear and then let it haze before removing.

These are those things some people over complicate and stress about. It's mostly about getting the product spread out thinly and then working it a bit before letting it haze. That's why I like machines, I can spread farther with them versus by hand, and it will definitely be a thinner layer.


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

lowejackson said:


> For those would like to use SRP with a DA, try their Glass Polish. Applying with a polishing pad makes a huge difference


I am going to try this, I don't seem to get SUPER results by hand, and it's kinda tiresome as well.


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Alfa male said:


> So how do you apply SRP properly then?


As above work it RIGHT in following the same routine you would ( cross hatch it) with a machine until it disappears then give it a few more passes. Almost as if you are trying to do it ALL with one cloth then buff it in straight lines along the length of the car SLOWLY let the MF do the work rather than trying to buff in circles at a million miles an hour


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

AllenF said:


> As above work it RIGHT in following the same routine you would ( cross hatch it) with a machine until it disappears then give it a few more passes. Almost as if you are trying to do it ALL with one cloth then buff it in straight lines along the length of the car SLOWLY let the MF do the work rather than trying to buff in circles at a million miles an hour


The problem with straight lines by hand, is it doesn't help spread the polish out as far. Circular motions help keep the polish moving along while still working it in.


----------



## Paul S (Jan 27, 2015)

I think Allen describes removal / buffing in straight lines, spreading as you describe.. 

Rgds, P


----------



## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Spread in circles yes work it in straight lines buff it in straight lines.
If you spread and work ( by hand) a slight cut what do you do???. Cut cirlces. 

Wash and dry in straight lines also circles = swirls that look a *****.straight lines are harder for the eye to pick up because the light refracts in one direction


----------



## M400BHP (Feb 18, 2015)

Glad i've read this as i have an abundance of SRP and i'm going to make good use of it now


----------



## scratcher (Jul 20, 2010)

AllenF said:


> Spread in circles yes work it in straight lines buff it in straight lines.
> If you spread and work ( by hand) a slight cut what do you do???. Cut cirlces.
> 
> Wash and dry in straight lines also circles = swirls that look a *****.straight lines are harder for the eye to pick up because the light refracts in one direction


Swirls are not circular scratches. Definitely not from application of products like SRP :lol:

Swirls are made up from numerous, straight micro scratches. They only look like circles because of the way the light hits it.
I agree about the removal process using straight lines and letting the cloth do the work as you just do t need to go vigorously buffing to remove products. But working polishes in a circular motion will not give you swirl marks.


----------

