# Help Needed. Flattening Paint/Wet sanding



## jl_ep3

Hi guys,

I've had conflicting info about the correct way to block, flatten paint to remove orange peel and other imperfections.

Before I start, I have done this many times before and am just looking to perfect my technique.

I use water with a bit of car soap in a spray with a Megs sanding block with Megs unigrit 1500 & 2000 papers.

**Many say to rub lightly in ONE DIRECTION of wet sanding, Others say to use CIRCULAR motions as its easier to buff them out as the scratches go in the same direction as a polisher.**

Any comments please?:buffer:


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## corradophil

I would say rub in various directions or circular. Rubbing in straight lines in one direction 'may' leave you with an uneven surface with high and low lines. I did this years ago whilst prepping a bonnet to be sprayed. You want to bring the lacquer down evenly.


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## phil_m_rob

I was always taught to sand in one direction, then when you go up to the next grade, sand at 90 degrees to the previous lines, so as you sand down, you go in a crossing over fashion.
When I wet sand I use liberal amounts of fairy liquid to ensure the surface is really slippy.


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## Duke Wellington

You have to see the video of this most excellent post by Junkman2008

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=241147


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## jl_ep3

Thanks for the link Duke.. I'm looking forward to giving this a go this weekend.


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## corradophil

jl_ep3 said:


> Thanks for the link Duke.. I'm looking forward to giving this a go this weekend.


Just take your time and be carefull near the edges of panels - it's easy to polish through at the edges.


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## jl_ep3

corradophil said:


> Just take your time and be carefull near the edges of panels - it's easy to polish through at the edges.


Haha, I've lived and learned about that on a scrap panel last year, the pound shop masking tape simply dissolved when it got wet.. Thanks for reminding me though


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## corradophil

jl_ep3 said:


> Haha, I've lived and learned about that on a scrap panel last year, the pound shop masking tape simply dissolved when it got wet.. Thanks for reminding me though


No worries, best of luck with it. You'll have to post some photos.


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## jl_ep3

corradophil said:


> No worries, best of luck with it. You'll have to post some photos.


I'll have to yes, before and after's. Keen to find out if my work meets DW's high standards!


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## corradophil

jl_ep3 said:


> I'll have to yes, before and after's. Keen to find out if my work meets DW's high standards!


I'm sure it will.


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## jl_ep3

Here's a panel that I flattened earlier this summer


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## corradophil

Looks perfect, I spy some Farecla G3 compound. I used to work at a bodyshop, and that is all we ever used for flatting and polishing - very good stuff.


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## jl_ep3

I've always sworn by the stuff, but its a little harsh for Honda clearcoat, It removes swirls rather TOO quickly for my liking even with gentle pressure..It also left quite a bit of 'haze' (more than usual) Great on everything else though!


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## Junkman2008

The main key to being successful in achieving this is having enough clear coat on the car to even think about doing it. Stock paint jobs from the factory do not have remotely enough clear coat to do this, especially with the grits that the OP stated he is going to use. For anyone thinking about doing this, keep that in mind. You could drastically thin out your clear coat and cause premature clear coat failure.


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## moosh

Hey mate, I'll start with I'm a painter among other things of 15 years and we were taught in college to flatten diagonally across the panel that way you are evenly cutting both planes of the panel surface. Circular cutting doesn't even or equally cut a panel unless you are perfect and methodical in your approach. Another tip let the paper do the work and don't force the block to cut, the block is there to provide a flat surface for the paper to cut with soapy warm water as a lubricant.


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## moosh

Junkman2008 said:


> The main key to being successful in achieving this is having enough clear coat on the car to even think about doing it. Stock paint jobs from the factory do not have remotely enough clear coat to do this, especially with the grits that the OP stated he is going to use. For anyone thinking about doing this, keep that in mind. You could drastically thin out your clear coat and cause premature clear coat failure.


I totally agree and especially with the ops car being Japanese which are notorious for having thin paint work


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## Junkman2008

moosh said:


> I totally agree and especially with the ops car being Japanese which are notorious for having thin paint work


Amen to that. I have experienced that first hand. I think Nissan is the worst. That's why most of my paint work is almost always on a American car in my videos.


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