# Shower cubicle leaking - found the cause (cowboy content possibly)



## Estoril-5

So one job I had pencilled in to do over Xmas was the shower cubicle as it was leaking. We've been in this house for 4.5 years and never had to do it before.

So I set out removing all the old sealant (which was a pain in the neck) and then quickly realised why the skirting boards were absolutely rotten! I'm pretty sure you shouldn't have a gap this big but it was just completely filled with silicone!

In the pics you can see the rotten skirting (who puts skirting in a bathroom anyway)?

Question is how do I fix it? Overload with silicone? Some kinds of mortar or concrete? I have no idea.... So this is where I need your advice.

Here's some pics




























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## dholdi

You could fill the gap completely with silicone.
Let it dry, then plant a plastic angle bead on top and silicone that as well.


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## WHIZZER

Could you not grout (waterproof grout) the gap and then use a Good Silicone bead over it ?


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## ashleyman

You want to inject silicone sealant under and behind the shower basin onto the wall - fill it up as much as possible. The visible bead is just for aesthetic purpose only and isn't what makes it waterproof at all, it's the injected packing you do behind it that makes it waterproof.


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## ffrs1444

Be ok with silicone but use a good one and do a bit at a time allowing it to dry between layers and let the area fully dry before doing it.


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## Estoril-5

Sounds like I just need good silicone and go gung ho on it.

With regards to the angle bead, I wouldn't be able to get it behind the tiles so how would I actually install it?

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## Bill58

As already advised fill the space between the shower tray and the tiles with silicone. You could also have leaking from the gap between tiles and frame (as seen in the 2nd picture). That should also be done.


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## Hasan1

WHIZZER said:


> Could you not grout (waterproof grout) the gap and then use a Good Silicone bead over it ?


This is your best option as silicone on its one will gap and leak again over time. 
Waterproof grout then silicon over the edge


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## dholdi

Estoril-5 said:


> With regards to the angle bead, I wouldn't be able to get it behind the tiles so how would I actually install it?


I meant something along these lines - https://www.showerdoc.com/byretech-...white-bswk04?gclid=COW2n9GwitECFVTNGwodFOkJlQ

Thats a rather expensive option but shows what I meant and how it would be installed, you could get a upvc bead from a window company for a fraction of the cost, you would just need to mitre the ends.


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## halam

Grout then sealant would be a good option but wouldn't look very neat. As above maybe something like this would be a good option or alternatively a ceramic corner trim link


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## Caledoniandream

Check first if your shower tray hasn't drpped.
Take the surroundings of and look undernead.
Check if your floorboards not have been rotting away.
I would grout it and place a corner piece over it for the looks.
Best would be to remove the shower cubicle, clean up and silicone it back in place.
A lot of work, but you wouldn't want your joists to rot away, spend a lityle more time to do it properly.


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## Estoril-5

So on the advice received i decided to remove the first row of tiles.

After scoring the grout the first three literally fell off! The fourth one I'm going to tackle with the dremel.

It's wet behind there let me tell you! I think it's player board behind the tiles, there's a dark brown wet layer behind the tiles and I think this could be the paper backing of the plaster board.

Here's some pics, any more I go /help is much appreciated.



















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## Cookies

I had exactly this problem back in the summer. It may be worth taking a few more rows of the tiles off and removing the plaster board. The stud timbers were not too bad in behind the plasterboard but there were bits low down that needed to be replaced as they were rotten. Get a dehumidifier in there for a while too chum and it should help to dry it out.

When you're rebuilding it, use marine ply and a talking membrane. Have a look at classiseal too, it bonds to the side of the shower tray and the wall. One thing I would add, don't fit a plastic bead at the bottom corner. Tile down to the edge of the tray and run a bead of silicon along it. You'll be able to easily see if there are any breaks in the sealant, or indeed if it starts to degrade. It's also easier to dig out and replace if needed.

Good luck, hope you get sorted.

Cooks

Edit - I bought one of these multitools -








it's fantastic for cutting out the plasterboard neatly, and allowed me to cut a straight edge to but the marine ply against.

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## Estoril-5

Managed to get the final tile off but managed to crack the bugger.

Thinking to remove the next row up to see the extent of the water damage










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## wee man

Similar to above had the same problem I stripped the complete wall then painted with a sealant/ anti fungal coating. Tacked and bonded 1/4 marine ply coated it with PVA then tiled after filing space between ply and shower tray with waterproof grout, I added a plastic edge under the last row of tiles and used a good aquarium standard silicone to seal the joint.
All still good five years later I found it strange the other wall of the shower was perfectly dry and did not need touched.

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## dholdi

The last tile didn't want to come off because it looks pretty dry behind it.
Do you have spare tiles to replace any you break if you go any further ?


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## simon.hunter

*don't waste time*

I had the same situation a few years ago.

External symptoms ie skirting board with water damage signs.

Your photo shows what looks like a home owner installation, or a poor professional job. The gap between tile bottom and top edge of shower tray is too big, and silicone has been used to hide the sins.

The first row of my tiles were exactly as your photo. Take my advice and retile the shower. You will never get the wall behind to dry out properly and any replacement tiles will keep falling off.


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## wish wash

I'd rip it off and start again. You can tell it's rough job by the tiles. You should fit moisture resistant plasterboard. It's got green paper on it instead of the normal grey. It stops this happening. You don't plaster the boards and you can tile straight onto them.


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## shl-kelso

If it was me I'd be replacing the plasterboard with aquapanel with a membrane system as it's purpose designed for the job. It also cannot soak up moisture so avoids the mess you've got now even if water gets past the tiling and membrane.


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## Mr K

Good luck mate. I had the same problem a couple of years ago, water leaking underneath which fortunately was in the garage.

I did all the suggestions by other members and it still leaked.

I had to remove it in the end which revealed a rotten floor and affecting the joists so had been leaking for a long while. Water is very devious and will find its way in anywhere.

I doubled up on the joists, renewed the flooring with ply [ was previously chip board ] , removed tiles to 4 or 5 rows high and cut off the plaster, fitted water proof boarding to the walls dropping down to the floor, refitted the shower tray, refixed wall tiles and sealed etc and hoped for the best.

I had to renew the skirting and architraves to the bedroom side of the shower room it had penetrated so badly.

So far so good.


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## bigalc

I had the same pŕoblem
Removed bottom row of tiles and used this before re tiling 
Think you can get smaller kits

http://www.bcprofiles.co.uk/aquasea...tm_source=bc&gclid=COPV4vXdjNECFUa3GwodJ3oMLQ


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## Estoril-5

Caledoniandream said:


> Check first if your shower tray hasn't drpped.


Looking at it a bit more closely I think it has dropped in the corner where there is a big gap in the tiles because the bottom of the door frame which is nearest to the wall has a gap. So it looks like that corner has dropped or it was fitted like that and siliconed up

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## Estoril-5

Definitely plasterboard ontop of brick wall.

So do I cutout the bad section of plaster board and replace with cement board?










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## dholdi

Estoril-5 said:


> So do I cutout the bad section of plaster board and replace with cement board?


I'd use something like this.

https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/Marmox-Multiboard-Tile-Backer-Insulation-Boards


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## Cookies

dholdi said:


> I'd use something like this.
> 
> https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/Marmox-Multiboard-Tile-Backer-Insulation-Boards


That's a good call. I was going to suggest marine ply with a tanking kit applied, but that looks like an all in one solution.

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## DJ X-Ray

We use this : http://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/...&network=pla&gclid=CNvBue-llNECFRATGwodo-EI-Q As Whizzer and someone else said, grout the gap first, but leave room for a bead of mastic. We do it on every job it won't leak.

Just use some decent mastic.


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## Estoril-5

The closest shed to me is Wickes, was thinking of using this if it does the job

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Aquap...-1200-x-900-x-12-5mm/p/207027#prodOverviewTab

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## dholdi

Estoril-5 said:


> The closest shed to me is Wickes, was thinking of using this if it does the job
> 
> http://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Aquap...-1200-x-900-x-12-5mm/p/207027#prodOverviewTab
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


That will do the job.


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## DJ X-Ray

Cement board is a pain in the **** to cut though. Used it in the past, but my guvnor doesn't get it anymore. TF!


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## Estoril-5

Hmmm,

I also have access to Selco which stock the Hardie backer board.

Just got to decide between the aqua panel and the Hardie backer board.

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## Estoril-5

Here's where we are at the moment










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## Mr Kirk

My shower tray has a lip sticking up which goes behind the tiles.


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## dholdi

Wood chisels are for wood


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## Estoril-5

dholdi said:


> Wood chisels are for wood


I know but they've come in really handy today.

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## funkydunk

dholdi said:


> Wood chisels are for wood


Not if you're a plumber.


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## sshooie

Not really read all of this but we moved into a newish house about 9 years ago, the en-suite was damp and when i removed the screen etc the shower had been badly fitted from new.

Rather than faff about I fitted a new lipped tray, screen and tiled down to the lip as attached.

Nothing worse that tracing damp and also much better for piece of mind, do it once, do it right imo...

Here is the old tray removed where you can see the bodge install (new house) and damp from the old tray









This shows the lipped new tray in situ 









Finally tiled over


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## dholdi

Estoril-5 said:


> I know but they've come in really handy today.


Well I suppose sometimes needs must, I hope they were old and blunt ones.



funkydunk said:


> Not if you're a plumber.


Haha, yes heard that before.


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