# Anyone reccomend me rotary starter kit.



## v_r_s (Nov 4, 2018)

Hi guys after some good advise. so iv had a rotary for a while, always fancied machine polishing and I have just got hold of a bonnet to practice on. It seems a minefield for pad and polish types.. as this is mainly for practicing can anyone please recommend me the minimum. Ie I don't want to be buying 5 different types of polishes plus pads ect. Just maybe any good samples for polish or just the cut and finishing. And bit of advice on pads as there are millions.

Like I said this won't be for use on a car anytime soon just to have a bit of a practice then I'll move down the route ideally of purchasing a new machine and kit later. 

Thanks please go easy on me


----------



## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

Hi, I'm not a rotary user myself but have come from RO to a Flex 3401 DA with Forced Rotation. I've used a rotary once just to get a bit of shine into a Corsa that was going up for sale for a family member. I was between polishers at that time and it was there at the site and beat doing it by hand that's for sure. No idea about the brand but im guessing it was some spurious make. It weighed a tonne and my arms sure knew about it after a day and a half, so if i was going down the rotary route something light in weight would be my choice.

There are now some compounds that allow the cut to be varied depending on pad which may save some money. I have used Scholl S40 Black which depending on the pad would give varied levels of cut, Im still unsure about it as havent got on as well with it as S3 XXL or S17 that they make which are really good to work with. Another that I have seen it compared to is Sonax Perfect Finish, I do have it but am yet to use it yet.

Pad Choice I don't really have any experience rotary wise to be any use I'm afraid. Again with this corsa i think the pad was what ever was about being just for enhancement rather than correction (words i wouldn't have known back then)

Dont know if this is any use but video is two parts but goes into some popular pads for DA and Rotary from memory.

hope something in there is of 'some' help


----------



## tomstephens89 (Jul 17, 2018)

For pads you can't go wrong with chemical guys hexlogic.


----------



## derbigofast (Dec 6, 2011)

pads take a pick and stick with it. the differences when starting are neglegable and as for a compound something like scholl s17 you cant go wrong with not to aggresive and finishes well also has a good oily base so no finicky drying and dusting issues.


----------



## BarryAllen (Feb 3, 2017)

El cheapo ebay pads will be fine. And you can field test that statement due to the fact you have the scrap bonnet to play with.

Menzerna compounds. And the Argos DA as well.

That combo will be a nice cheap entry point. 

All of the above holds if you are only a weekend warrior or don't drive a car worth 50K !


----------



## v_r_s (Nov 4, 2018)

Brilliant thanks for all the info. It's mainly to see how I get on. They I would possibly move onto a new machine. Thought it would be worth the 40£ worth of pads backing plates and polish to trial. If I like it I still have the polish and pads just need a new machine 

So aif I get 2 cutting pads and a finishing pad would I need the cutting compound. Start on the least abrasive pad. Only use higher if required. Then use a finishing pad with finishing polish?


----------



## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

v_r_s said:


> Brilliant thanks for all the info. It's mainly to see how I get on. They I would possibly move onto a new machine. Thought it would be worth the 40£ worth of pads backing plates and polish to trial. If I like it I still have the polish and pads just need a new machine
> 
> So aif I get 2 cutting pads and a finishing pad would I need the cutting compound. Start on the least abrasive pad. Only use higher if required. Then use a finishing pad with finishing polish?


Depends on how you want to do it, you could start by use a single compound like the Scholl S40 or Sonax PF on a Cutting / Polishing /Finishing Pad (reverse the order for least cut first). That way when your using your practice panel you have only one compound but all the pads to tailor the cut achieved.

Alternative would be using a selection of pads with compounds to finishing polishes. Again the cut from a finishing pad will not be harsh as a polishing pad with the same product used on it. Important to say that many other compounds and polishes are available and if you are just going in on a practice panel you dont need to worry too much about any damage and will learn loads just by this practice.


----------



## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

If the rotary comes with a hard backing plate then it is really worth upgrading the backing plate. On a DA the backing plate is not a big deal but on a rotary it makes a big difference. 

As for pads, almost any brand will do the job however without any doubt my favourite is the 3M pads, especially the yellow (polishing) and blue (finishing). The green (cutting pad) is very good once broken in. I am not a fan of the 3M polishes but their pads are fantastic, they are not the cheapest products but they will last a long time. The polishing and finishing pads feel as if they are too soft to work but don't let this fool you, they can cut as well as any other pad. 

My tip for rotary is to keep the speeds low, keeping to 1000rpm or lower can yield very good results. If you are new to the rotary then my suggestion is to learn to move the machine around first. Use a finishing pad and polish and just get used to getting the machine to where you want it to go


----------



## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

lowejackson said:


> If the rotary comes with a hard backing plate then it is really worth upgrading the backing plate. On a DA the backing plate is not a big deal but on a rotary it makes a big difference.
> 
> As for pads, almost any brand will do the job however without any doubt my favourite is the 3M pads, especially the yellow (polishing) and blue (finishing). The green (cutting pad) is very good once broken in. I am not a fan of the 3M polishes but their pads are fantastic, they are not the cheapest products but they will last a long time. The polishing and finishing pads feel as if they are too soft to work but don't let this fool you, they can cut as well as any other pad.
> 
> My tip for rotary is to keep the speeds low, keeping to 1000rpm or lower can yield very good results. If you are new to the rotary then my suggestion is to learn to move the machine around first. Use a finishing pad and polish and just get used to getting the machine to where you want it to go


Was my first and only experience of the rotary just how much it drags you about at first till you get used to it.

v_r_s I know the DA guide helped me out so worth the having a read

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=66024


----------



## BarryAllen (Feb 3, 2017)

I doubt you would need finishing pads unless you are going concours or have ocd. 

Cutting and Polishing pads should suffice.

You will read in lots of compounds reviews "finishes down nicely" or the like. My limited experience of correction with Menz 2400 & 2200 was exactly that - my paint ended up shiny and 95% swirl free. 

Takes out the everyday abuse a poor washing regime causes... and that was all I wanted. 

Didn't see any mention of Clay in your posts... or indeed Fallout remover. Well worth some time and money on these otherwise you are grinding contaminates into the paint. 

Oh and one other thing, whatever pads you choose.. keep them clean as you work... Google Mike Phillips pad cleaning on the fly technique - that keeps you working longer.

Good luck.


----------



## v_r_s (Nov 4, 2018)

So had to sessions on the middle of the bonnet seem quite happy with the results. Got more used to the machine. Main faults seemed as flollows

Not enough polish. Also sprayed a little qd to lube the pad a little more. 
Obviously pad skipping on first session. 

Shame I have a silver pannel as its harder to see the results. I can't see how I can take photos to justify it unless someone can guide me how. 

Most noticeable to me is both sides of the bonnet are realllllly dull and like sort of wet sanded really fine. 

Middle is really clear in comparison.


----------



## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

v_r_s said:


> So had to sessions on the middle of the bonnet seem quite happy with the results. Got more used to the machine. Main faults seemed as flollows
> 
> Not enough polish. Also sprayed a little qd to lube the pad a little more.
> Obviously pad skipping on first session.
> ...


Glad to see the practice is going well, keep it up. Bigger learning curve with rotary than DA. If your trying to get a picture i know silver is harder to photograph. If you can get it in the garage or a darker environment then find a suitable light source will prob show the improvement. Do you have any workshop lights or anything similar?


----------



## v_r_s (Nov 4, 2018)

So on inspection of my finishing I'm thinking I had very light marring or hazing.

Hard to explain but if I looked at the bonnet I could see verrry light marrying at angles. 

That was after orange hex pad s17
While hex pad s17
And black hex pad s17

So I wanted to test the full durability I thought I'd wax one side of the panel to check the difference between a polished finished and polished and waxed.

I only had some like 5 year old simonix liquid wax 
Applied by rotary on black hex pad lowest speed 1.5. 
To my amazement the finish got rid off the light marks I mentioned. 
So to make sure it wasn't just my eyes as the panel I just waxed looked alot better to the unwaxed. I then did the unwaxedaxed side as I could see that still had the marks. Again once waxed the finish was fantastic.

Anyone got any ideas on the resolution?

Thinking maybe the wax has fillers and it's filled the marks maybe like an ag srp

Or maybe the wax just gave it the final polishing finish or required. 


As I'm still learning just after some good theory behind me practice 
Cheers


----------



## Citromark (Oct 29, 2013)

Is the car black or a dark colour by any chance ?

Mark


----------



## v_r_s (Nov 4, 2018)

Citromark said:


> Is the car black or a dark colour by any chance ?
> 
> Mark


It's a metalic silver bonnet just a scrap one. Black is easy to see results and marks where as the silver is alot harder


----------



## Citromark (Oct 29, 2013)

I've recently machine polished the wifes black Freelander , the final polish stage was with Megs 205 and 3M blue pad on a slow speed to remove any holograms from the previous stage . The results were very impressive , as you say , the Simoniz may have masked the marring/hazing . I'd give the scrap bonnet an Ipa wipedown and see if the marring/haze is still present , if it is try a good finishing polish .

Mark


----------

