# machine wax?



## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

What would be a good wax to machine polish a car? 

wax has no cutting properties right? newbie

i have access to autosmart stuff...do they do any good ones?


:buffer::buffer: please help :buffer::buffer: 

thanks 

Jordan


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

So your wanting a liquid wax to apply by machine?


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> What would be a good wax to machine polish a car?
> 
> wax has no cutting properties right? newbie
> 
> ...


Well you will be good to find a wax that polishes the car, but some polishes do have wax and some waxes have polish/cleaners, I would say the better finishes are usually after using a dedicated finishing polish followed by a pure wax :thumb:
In the meantime here is an old civic machine polished/wa using Lidl W5 carnauba carecare product.



















This one is a before wash etc










AG SRP applied here










before










hope those help, there are an array of products to choose from, in fairness I have never applied straight wax with the rotary.


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

RosswithaOCD said:


> So your wanting a liquid wax to apply by machine?


hmmm reading reviews....is it better to do it by hand?


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## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

Since you have access to Autosmart stuff-

Autosmart Mirror Image works fantastic by machine. It does however contain some very mild abrasive but is carnauba based so will polish and wax in one operation.

I apply the wax to the panel using a damp polishing sponge then run over it with the machine using a soft pad until the residue disappears. Lightly buff the panel with a nice soft microfibre cloth afterwards.

Or,if you want a completely abrasive free product then AS Platinum can also be used the same way by machine but this will fill in light swirls rather than remove them.

If you want you can apply a paste wax by hand afterwards to extend durability but both products will offer protection of there own.


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> hmmm reading reviews....is it better to do it by hand?


You can't beat a good hand job :lol:, but seriously though, polish by machine and buff off by hand or apply wax by hand and buff.
I cant see any advantage of applying abrasive free wax with a machine.


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

so whats a good wax? 

i've used autoglym hd - seemed ok

autosmart do a carnauba one :S 

sooooo confused lol


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> so whats a good wax?
> 
> i've used autoglym hd - seemed ok
> 
> ...


To be fair, I have not come across a bad wax that costs more than £1, it's all to do with the pre prep, AG HD I find fantastic, but it was applied to a nicely polished surface, the W5 shown in the pics above was applied using a machine along with the AG SRP on the Golf.
With wax it depends on your budget and what marketing tripe you want to believe. Has your car been polished /clayed etc recently?


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

you can apply liquid waxes (megs nxt gen for example) by machine with a finishing pad. what do you want from a wax? durability? finish? or a compromise between the two?


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

fiestadetailer said:


> you can apply liquid waxes (megs nxt gen for example) by machine with a finishing pad. what do you want from a wax? durability? finish? or a compromise between the two?


Well for other people's cars - finish

but my own i would like durability and finish


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

rusey93 said:


> Well for other people's cars - finish
> 
> but my own i would like durability and finish


i would go for either collinte 476 or 915 in that case as both are easy to use, give great durability after a few coats and theres hardly any difference in finish between the two imo. for other peoples cars, as you say you want a good finish so either chemical guys xxx hardcore paste wax or poorboys nattys wax will do you proud for them


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> Well for other people's cars - finish
> 
> but my own i would like durability and finish


Then I would suggest using a cleaner wax often or as you already have the AG HD, then you can apply SRP by machine, you didnt say if your car was prepped recently


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

Avanti said:


> Then I would suggest using a cleaner wax often or as you already have the AG HD, then you can apply SRP by machine, you didnt say if your car was prepped recently


what do you mean by prepped ?? washed, clayed? ect ect ?


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> what do you mean by prepped ?? washed, clayed? ect ect ?


Well yes, you said you tried AG HD and it was ok, so to me it sounds like you just slapped it on a car which has not been recently polished whether it be by hand or machine


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## nicp2007 (Apr 25, 2007)

dodo juice need for speed is good by machine, but it does contain mild abrasives :thumb:


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

rusey93 said:


> what do you mean by prepped ?? washed, clayed? ect ect ?


prep is 90% of the result - the wax seals in all the hard work you've put in.
(a good wash, clay, re-wash and a polish by hand or machine if the paintwork has any swirls or scratches, then your chosen wax.


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

How many times a year can polish your car without damaging the paintwork ?


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> How many times a year can polish your car without damaging the paintwork ?


It doesnt sound like you have done it once yet! You have been asked several times now and not yet answered that pasrticular question once yet, it's hard for folk to know if you are messing around or what? How do you expect folk to help you fully if you are not furnishing the required information? 
You did ask that same question in another thread,


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

rusey93 said:


> How many times a year can polish your car without damaging the paintwork ?


depends on what polishes you use - how much paint is removed each time, although if the car is well looked after when its been polished the first time, it should not need extensive polishing that often (aggressive pads/polishes), do you have a paint thickness gauge?


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

Avanti said:


> It doesnt sound like you have done it once yet! You have been asked several times now and not yet answered that pasrticular question once yet, it's hard for folk to know if you are messing around or what? How do you expect folk to help you fully if you are not furnishing the required information?
> You did ask that same question in another thread,


ok then :S

i used the autoglym hd wax on a boat - thats why i was unsure about what it was like on a car

So i will change my question, i am looking to buy a machine polisher, think im gonna go for the kestral DA one.

And what products should i use in which order?

sorry for the confusion, and i will delete the other thread


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## spitfire (Feb 10, 2007)

I think it would be helpfull to explain (and most folk would agree) that a wax will add only a very small percentage to the look of your car(maybe as low as 1%) Most of the shine from the paint coming by way of correction(as in removing oxidation and paint defects like swirls) Given that the LSP will only give one percent to the look it is very difficult for any wax to give more "look" than another. Where you will notice a difference is in durability and to that end Collinite 476 is hard to beat and at around 20 quid it is _the_ wax that most will recommended around these parts for newcomers to the forum. However life would be boring if that's all we could use. Victoria, Dodo, Autoglym, Chemical Guys and various other makers all supply various waxes that will give you that extra one per cent in a way that suits your personal taste and needs. If you get bored of waxes, then you'll find an even bigger selection of sealants which will also struggle to give you anymore than that 1%. Difference is usually in the application and bonding properties and are often considered to repel dirt because of the slickness they give to your paint.

So, my opinion would be to spend a little less time worrying about what LPS to use and concentrate your efforts on removing or covering up swirls and oxidation. This will give you the most satisfaction from the look of your cars paintwork. HTH


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

fiestadetailer said:


> depends on what polishes you use - how much paint is removed each time, although if the car is well looked after when its been polished the first time, it should not need extensive polishing that often (aggressive pads/polishes), do you have a paint thickness gauge?


no their really expensive (i think)

looked the other night and i couldn't find any below £200


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> ok then :S
> 
> i used the autoglym hd wax on a boat - thats why i was unsure about what it was like on a car
> 
> ...


There are specific waxes for boats and in general car waxes are not suitable for boats, is the boat gelcoat, aluminium, wood? 
there are plenty of pics on the is forum of AG HD on a car and to be fair they don't do the product justice, 3M do a boat wax and boat polishes , whether boat car or any surface, it needs to be prepped 1st if the surface is new and fressh it will need less preparation, because of the surface area a boat offers then a machine polisher is essential, there is a post on here recently of someone who polished a boat, if you do a search for Honk Kong I think you will get there :thumb:


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

rusey93 said:


> no their really expensive (i think)
> 
> looked the other night and i couldn't find any below £200


carwashnwax do one for £170, but if you are going to machine polishing several cars often, i would consider getting one as you are basically guessing otherwise on how much polishing you can get away with before you remove too much paint.


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

Avanti said:


> There are specific waxes for boats and in general car waxes are not suitable for boats, is the boat gelcoat, aluminium, wood?
> there are plenty of pics on the is forum of AG HD on a car and to be fair they don't do the product justice, 3M do a boat wax and boat polishes , whether boat car or any surface, it needs to be prepped 1st if the surface is new and fressh it will need less preparation, because of the surface area a boat offers then a machine polisher is essential, there is a post on here recently of someone who polished a boat, if you do a search for Honk Kong I think you will get there :thumb:


no you have misunderstood me again, i have used it down at the boatyard, but my intention is to use it on a car. (sorry i sometimes have trouble getting what i mean onto paper). So what stages would be taken for a detail.

i didnt mean to *pee* u off at all - sorry mate


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

If you are looking for products from start to finish then I guess you are looking at products to allow you to perform a full detail... 

Assuming you have the washing stage down, have you looked into claying the paintwork yet? If not, this is your first port of call before using any polishing products on the paint, as it will be covered with bonded contamination such as industrial fallout, tree sap, etc etc which ideally need to be removed in order for you to get the best result from any polishing and waxing stage - be that by hand or machine... something like Meguiars QuikClay is good for beginners as it contains everything you need in one pack: a mild yet effective and easy to use clay bar, and a bottle of lube for use with the clay.

Once clayed, then if you are looking at a Kestrel DA, I imagine you are looking at paintwork correction... in which case, a couple of polishes to get your started would be Menzerna PO85RD3.02 Intensive Polish for moderate swilrs, PO106FA Final Finish for lighter swirls and finishing... you'll need polishing and finishing pads also, and ideally a 3.5" backing plate and 4" pads for tighter areas... I'd also recommend a read of the DA Polishing Guide, click on the link in my sig.

Then, this is the paint prep... the above two processes will deliver IMHO 99%+ of the final look if done properly, the wax will offer little extra - I'd go for something durable like Collinite 476S and apply and remove by hand.

Re: thickness gauges, yup they are expensive... are you only planning on doing your own car? If so, then its most likely you wont need one and you can borrow one locally if you do want to assess thicknesses before polishing... Are you doing other people's cars? If so, a PTG is a much more worthwhile investment as it will help to guide you and help to prevent paint damage by using too aggressive a polish on thin spots, I wouldn't me machine polishing someone else's car without one.


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> no you have misunderstood me again, i have used it down at the boatyard, but my intention is to use it on a car. (sorry i sometimes have trouble getting what i mean onto paper). So what stages would be taken for a detail.
> 
> i didnt mean to *pee* u off at all - sorry mate


I aint peed off 
Just you have to be clear with what you are trying to achieve, if you look I have answered all you have asked it does seem you want to disclude what I answer , it wasnt clear what you were trying to achieve and in fairness if you are not sure at the moment , then it would be cruel to be let loose on somebody else's car. Then you changed what the plan was, are you trying to polish a boat or car, as this is a car forum, but other activities are welcome and some techniques are applicable to both even though the products may not be :thumb:

Now let me ask once more are you going to polish the surface before you apply any wax (doesn't matter if it's a boat car bike )


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

god DaveKG has spoken


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

Avanti said:


> I aint peed off
> Just you have to be clear with what you are trying to achieve, if you look I have answered all you have asked it does seem you want to disclude what I answer , it wasnt clear what you were trying to achieve and in fairness if you are not sure at the moment , then it would be cruel to be let loose on somebody else's car. Then you changed what the plan was, are you trying to polish a boat or car, as this is a car forum, but other activities are welcome and some techniques are applicable to both even though the products may not be :thumb:
> 
> Now let me ask once more are you going to polish the surface before you apply any wax (doesn't matter if it's a boat car bike )


The plan;

wash
dry chamois/towel
clay
polish
wax

that ok  ?


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

fiestadetailer said:


> god DaveKG has spoken


Not spoken enough yet though, I do recall a post that we would have a review on Sonax premium wax, I have stayed away from pornhub in anticipation :car:


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Avanti said:


> Not spoken enough yet though, I do recall a post that we would have a review on Sonax premium wax, I have stayed away from pornhub in anticipation :car:


I'm just writing that thread just now  

Tests were done on 23rd and 24th ... came home, ready to write it up and ... well, I had a few glasses of wine! :lol::lol:

Only had two tonight, so still compus mentus for writing it up


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

rusey93 said:


> The plan;
> 
> wash
> dry chamois/towel
> ...


not bad, this is what i would do:

wash
rinse
clay will still wet
re-wash and rinse
dry (not with chammy - they are rubbish)
machine polish
wax

(are you doing the wheels to? if you are, do them first):thumb:


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

Avanti said:


> Not spoken enough yet though, I do recall a post that we would have a review on Sonax premium wax, *I have stayed away **from pornhub in anticipation *:car:


:doublesho


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## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

ok thanks guys - hopefully order all the gear when i next get paid  

thanks for all ur help


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

rusey93 said:


> ok thanks guys - hopefully order all the gear when i next get paid
> 
> thanks for all ur help


no worries.


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

rusey93 said:


> The plan;
> 
> wash
> dry chamois/towel
> ...


Well that is a good plan for the majority of process,
Washing is an area in it's own right, if it is a 1st time long overdue wash then I go for a heavy duty wash product , but then Im using a power washer and avoid mitts /sponges where possible, the car may need degreasing and/or de-tarring which may require additional products. 
Lose the chamois in favour of a microfibre towel (and that is coming from someone who uses a drying blade) , 
I dont use clay but many do so you should be good
Polish depends on the amount of oxidization,level of finish and correction you desire
Wax to protect
Stand back and admire

Today a friend from my old work place popped a visit, later I decided to give his 57 fiesta ghia a clean, consisted of interior glass clean, vac, leather treated, powerwash using auto rae snow wax alloy wheels brushed while the foam dwelled, power rinsed off, was mitless and he was already pleased, then after using the blade and silverline blower finished the drying with a microfibre, applied glass cleaner to the exterior glass , applied williams f1 carnuaba enriched polish by hand 2 panels at a time and buffed off, dressed the tyres with TW platinum dressing and rubber, wiped the glass internal and external with another microfibre, car looked mint and he was over the moon, showed him what beading was about and he discovered without prompt what flake popping was. I was over the moon when he insisted I have some beer tokens, I only wanted to see how much product I was using per clean and that car would add to the average figures I have been collecting.


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