# Aquartz / Aquartz+ & Iron Cut



## caledonia

*Aquartz / Aquartz+ / Iron Cut.*

First of all a big thank you to Avi for supplying me with the products and being very helpful and honest with regards to what to expect and the best ways to apply these types of products.











From the off it was clear that they are a new influx of nano tech LSPs appearing on the market place. I have uses various types for different manufacturers. Some good and lived up to their claims and some not so great. Aquartz is slightly different as it is water based and requires immediate buffing on a cool panel. *Please do not leave to long on the panel without intervention* and starting to buff off, as the user might run into some difficulties. Keep the working area small 2' X 2' is more than adequate. 

*Manufacturers Blurb. Aquartz*

Is a special nano technology product with a long term effect on painted surfaces, glass and wheels..
This is not a sealer that forms a barrier but rather a modification of the surface chemistry on a molecular level to provide a permanent easy to clean and protective surface.
The super hydrophilic (<20 deg) works by repelling water and preventing adherence of any contaminants.
In a microscopic level the painted surface is not completely smooth, so water and dirt on the surface can build up easily. Aquartz allows the dirt with water simply to wash off and provide a clean surface, .leaving less water marks on surface.
Dirty water cannot settle into the painted surface, the coating is very long lasting, UV stable.
It cannot removed by water, Alkaline or other detergents or high pressure equipment.
Aquartz will guarantee that the surface keeps its original clarity and transparency. 
.
Our special unique coat has another major benefit "Anti Calcium Effect".with most other sealants or nano coatings, dried water spots penetrate the coat , then it is very hard to wipe them off, with our coat it will not bond to the coat and will be very easy to remove the water spot.
Aquartz can be applied to plastics, leather and rubber surface.

*Spray and buff *
Where the users sprays 4 short missed from the bottle evenly over the chosen area and starts to wipe immediately. Spread evenly over the surface and then with firm pressure and fast hand movements wiping over the area, for a few passes. Then continuing to wipe but decreasing the pressure as you go. Continue to do so for sometime as the longer you wipe the better the bond will be on the panel.
This product dries and cures, with heat and friction. I have also been told that static electricity also plays its hand in this also. Continue wiping for a few minutes, until you are happy the product has cured. This is when you can speed up the application process, by using a hot air gun if desired. I will aid the user to full cure the lower layer prior to the second application on Aquartz, as recommended by the manufacturer. The user can also leave the car in sunshine or a warm place to aid curing. Once the first layer has cured. Now you can move straight to Aquartz+ at this time. But I was recommended to apply a second coat, prior to moving on. *Leave 1 hour before applying a second layer of Aquartz if warmth or heat gun is not used.*

*Manufacturers Blurb. Aquartz+*
Aquatrz+ is based on the same characteristics as Aquartz. The main factor and its properties is its ability to create a Hydrophilic layer on the cars surface (Less than 20 Degrees).









The Hydrophilic nature of this product will leave less water on the cars surface. Aquartz+ will also enhance the gloss on the cars surface and accelerate the curing process of Aquartz by 50%. Hence total cure time will be 12Hrs.
Aquartz+ also claims to hide 50% of swirl marks on the cars surface.
So in short. More gloss, more hardness, more chemical protection, and reducing the total curing time.

*Iron Cut*
Manufacturers Blurb.
Highly effective, acid-free and pH balanced (6~7pH) car paint, wheels & glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including aluminum and alloys). This formulation is also effective and safe for use on all car surfaces and will not deteriorate clear coats. This preventative measure puts a stop to corrosion , Iron Cut contains unique chemical ingredients that effectively dissolves the sintered iron by forming a water soluble iron complex. No other method cleans paint and wheels as deeply as Iron Cut. The Iron Cut Paint and wheels Decontamination System was developed as a method of removing paint contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying !!. If you are familiar with detail clay, you know it is capable of removing above surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint. The Iron Cut is designed to remove what lies below the paint surface.
Airborne chemical compounds and ferrous particles - particles containing iron - actually penetrate the paint and create corrosive compounds that eat deep into the paint's sub-layers or paint's pin-holes. This is a gradual process that often is not evident until it's too late. Claying or polishing only removes the particle, not its effects, which are continuing to spread beneath the surface.

During the use of your vehicle, brake dust and road grime become sintered to the surface of the car paint , rims and wheels due to the high temperature conditions they are normally exposed. Brake dust contains high levels of iron and once sintered to the rim, becomes extremely difficult to dissolve or remove without the use of harsh chemicals. Iron Cut opens up the paint's pores to release ferrous particles and to neutralize caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by removing the ferrous particles. 

*Iron Cut *sprays on as a thick, transparent, as the cleansing liquid begins to work into the dirt and grime, the formula begins to turn purple/ red. The purple/red coloration is the Iron Cut Cleaner forming a bond to the sintered iron on the car paint and wheel and changing its state to a water soluble complex for easy removal. Stubborn, baked on grime may take a small amount of agitation. Rinse car paint and wheels thoroughly with a power washer and wipe dry.

The Iron Cut is used by body shops for pre-cleaning prior to detailing and by dealerships for new and used car prep. It is proven to deliver a clean, glassy smooth vehicle that is protected from the harmful effects of paint 
*How to Use*

1. Wash the car or wheels surfaces, make sure surface is in cool temp.
2. Shake well, spray on the surface, rub it in with damp sponge thoroughly, wait 5 min. while contaminants change its colour to purple /red, wipe off with damp soft sponge. Don't let the Iron Cut dry completely on surface!
3. Rinse well or power wash the whole surface. Car is ready to clay now.

Average consumption per complete car: 100 ~ 150ml.
Shelf life: 1 year if kept closed in cool, dry place.

*Iron cut is the most essential step before any polishing work done on the car which no other cleaner can do. *
*Iron Cut is very important to use before Aquartz application.*

*Precautions*

1. To be safe, check the spray on such area which does not cause noticeable stains before the whole application.
2. Unpainted plastic parts and rubber can be sprayed. If attached, before drying Please rinse well.
Avoid using on Chrome trims,! Please mask them before Iron Cut.
3. Avoid spraying under direct sunlight or hot surface.
4. Please work in adequate ventilated space (we strongly suggest using surgeons mask while working).
5. Wash hands after handling with water.
6. If swallowed, do not induce vomiting, immediately rinse your mouth, please get medical attention.
7. Eye and skin contact, please wash with water.
8. Avoid reach of children's.
contamination. No other is as fast and effective at removing multi-layer paint and wheels contamination.

The product and labelling.










Sprayed onto panel and almost straight off there was signs of Iron cut coming into contact with Ferrous metal. Note the change in colour in some of the beads.































Wiped over and made uniform on the panel and left for 5 minutes.





















Video of Iron Cut doing its thing. As you can see even the run off of the product has changed colour. Due to the contamination being dislodged and washed away with the flow of the Iron Cut.


























After this time rinsed off with an open water source and dried. This left the panel to be clayed and no possible chance of picking up any metal particles and rubbing them across the surface. 

I tested the Iron Cut in its natural state and also when in contact with the metal filings. Both tests came back. PH of 7 and so neutral in all aspects.











I later tried this out on a section of a wheel as it can also be used as a decontamination kit on these also.

Sprayed on.





Gave the Iron Cut a work over with a detailing brush.






Then left for a further 5 Minutes. But made sure it did not dry on the surface. Rinsed of with shampoo and water in spray bottle. I did not use a PW as I wished to show how easy the product cleans and is removed.






Finished wheel and cleaned off although only a test section.






*Main test Panel*.
For the purpose of this test I chose a scrap panel, with one side polished and corrected. I sub divided this into 2. The other side of the bonnet was not machined or corrected. But also sub divided into 2. The reason was to gauge the percentage of filling this product claims.
Aquartz and Aquartz+ are designed as a nano sealant with high UV filter to protect your paint, glass and wheels, so an AIO sealant. Due to it hydrophilic nature it is not a beading product and water finds it hard to sit on the surface. It is more prone to run off and sheet. So aiding the drying of the vehicle. The reasoning behind the hydrophilic nature of this product is really simple. Less water beading. So in short less water to dry off the car and also less water spotting when the beads dry out. This really comes into play when you have a film of dust on your car and the bead dry out after a shower. Less baked on grim equals less possible marring of the paint. It also has a high level of resilience to chemicals and detergents. Unlike most of the nano sealants on the market at present. Where care and attention have to be watch as to what to apply and use. I plan to put these product though there paces and use almost straight dilutions and see what effect it has on this product, in real life. It also boasts in having a high resilience to swirls and although. No one can claim to have a full proof product it this case, It certainly shows from initial testing to have a good ability in resisting marring and light swirls. But I will continue to update this thread as test continue. The durably claims again it is too early to verify this but again from what I have been told and lead to believe 1 ½ to 2 years can also be expected from this product. The key in durability is the substrate and the hardness of your existing paint on the car. Softer paint will have a weaker life span than harder.
Products.











Uncorrected side.









































Corrected side.









































Applying Iron cut to test areas. Just a gentle spray over.











Left to do its stuff, but started to run off prior to wiping over.
















After I rinse the test panel fully and made sure the Iron Cut had been removed. I gentle clayed over the test panel. This ensured the area was fully cleanse and decontaminated.
I then wiped over with an IPA wipe down to ensure there was no grease or residue left from claying.











For this purpose and demo of the product I choose the rotary with a blue 3M finishing pad. But various application methods can be employed.






I sprayed 5 short burst from the bottle to cover my 2 X 2 foot area and started to work. This product must be work almost straight away. By whatever method is chosen to apply it. Do not leave on panel and also do not work on warm panels also.
The product was not as lubed as you would expect a correction polish to be and there was a noticeable drag to the pad. I later spoke to Avi after this application and was told that a finishing wool pad would not create this problem as it would have more glide and the user would not experience as much drag. I started at 600RPM, with light pressure to ensure even coverage. Before moving on to 1000RPM, with medium pressure over the head. The curing process of these type of sealants is heat as well as static electricity. I continued to machine the area until there was no product left on the panel and it had dried in. A quick wipe over with a MF and the area felt very slick and the MF glided freely.

I waited a further Hour as I was unclear and decided to follow the instruction. Where I says to leave an hour between coats if heat or machine application is not used. But better safe than sorry I applying a further coat of Aquartz to both corrected and uncorrected areas, as before and wipe clean.
Corrected side after 2 coats of Aquartz





















I then moved on to Aquartz+ this product is designed as an accelerator and harder. It also is stated it aid hide defects in the paint work and reduces them by 50%. I also claims to increase the gloss and shine. Which shall be scientifically tested at a later date. But I must state I personally did not an increase in both gloss and shine from the treated areas. Now where this was a placebo effect will be tested.

Aquartz+










Applied the Aquartz+ in the same method as Aquartz.
Finishing pad. Start to work at 600RPM, Increasing the pressure and speed to 1000Rpm till product disappeared on the finish and buffed off residue.






Uncorrected side after application.




















There was also a noticeable colour change in the finish and a detectable increase in gloss.











Under light source to gauge if there was any difference in the defects.
As you can see there was a good reduction in the treated area. Not perfect by any means. But still a good improvement.

Before.










After application.




















As this point I will draw my review to a close as I wish to let the product fully cure and set up. Although the product is cure after 12hrs and the user can do as they wish. I decided at this point as time was moving on and to fully let the product set up. I would leave it a further 7 days after application. I will update the sheeting ability of the product and scratch test, what effect chemical cleaners have on it or any other findings that transpired though time. Could be a long one but time will tell.

Hope this helps and until the next update

Thanks.
Gordon.

*Test Updated* http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=2171532&postcount=13


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## WHIZZER

Nice Write up Gordon Looking forward to seeing updates.


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## Tiauguinho

Wow, nice post Gordon! Impressive stuff that Iron Cut, must give it a try


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## ads2k

Impressive write up Gordon :thumb:, will have a proper read of that when I'm home as the firewall has blocked out all of the vid's here at work :wall:.


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## fishbonezken

Thanks for the write-up Gordon!

From your write-up, I understand that Aquartz is a ready to use product and does not need to be pre-mixed with any hardener/catalyst/accelerator, am I correct?

Also, can it be stored for future usage? Or it is a one time use thing...

I wonder if this is the type of sealant that will harden into something physically hard, transparent and crystal-like.


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## Hoppo32

I was watching this Aquartz video the other day






In the video they use a heat gun to accellerate the curing process, is this a different product to the one your using or is it a step you just dont need to do?


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## Cquartz

fishbonezken said:


> Thanks for the write-up Gordon!
> 
> From your write-up, I understand that Aquartz is a ready to use product and does not need to be pre-mixed with any hardener/catalyst/accelerator, am I correct?
> 
> Also, can it be stored for future usage? Or it is a one time use thing...
> 
> I wonder if this is the type of sealant that will harden into something physically hard, transparent and crystal-like.


yes, its ready to use product, no diluting,mixing,catalyst or others.
shelf life time more then 2 years, kept closed,in cool shade.
its hardering a layer of nano particles which will protect your paint from light scratches, and others. very thin layer.


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## Cquartz

Hoppo32 said:


> I was watching this Aquartz video the other day
> 
> YouTube- aquartz by polisher.wmv
> 
> In the video they use a heat gun to accellerate the curing process, is this a different product to the one your using or is it a step you just dont need to do?


same products,
either 5~10 min heat gun or 1 hour of sunshine baking


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## Cquartz

Hi Gordon, great review 
i see you developed our process with the A+ , its good also,
btw from where did you get our marchandise clock?? with Quartz logo :thumb:


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## Spoony

Excellent Gordon thanks for that.


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## fishbonezken

Aquartz said:


> yes, its ready to use product, no diluting,mixing,catalyst or others.
> shelf life time more then 2 years, kept closed,in cool shade.
> its hardering a layer of nano particles which will protect your paint from light scratches, and others. very thin layer.


Thanks for the reply! Since it will harden, will the foam finishing pad used to apply the Aquartz be unusable after one application? 
Or it can be re-used if washed off immediately...


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## caledonia

fishbonezken said:


> Thanks for the reply! Since it will harden, will the foam finishing pad used to apply the Aquartz be unusable after one application?
> Or it can be re-used if washed off immediately...


As soon as I finished applying the product. I dropped them both in a bucket of shampoo and water and rinsed them out. The product is water bases so as long as you do not let the product dry cleaning should not be an issue.

After the initial clean I just cleaned the pad as normal in to the washing machine at 40 Degrees.
Gordon.


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## caledonia

*Aquartz Update. Approximate 5 days after initial application.*
*13/05/10*

As promised I managed to few up sometime today to carry out a few tests on this newly available nano coating.
To start off I took some beading and sheeting shots. So I could gauge any untowards effect the products I was going to apply to the coating, would have.
Where Aquartz is not a renowned as a beading product it does show some signs of this under a light misting of water.

*Aquartz & Aquaurtz+ Beading. (Uncorrected side)*









As you can see the beading has a low contact angle so it hydrophilic as described.



















*Aquartz & Aquartz+ (Corrected Side)*




















Beading & Sheeting Video.






Sheeting Video. 






First up and I tried to chose chemicals that member have readily around
*Megs Wheel Brightner*.











PH of wheel brightner. Undiluted.










Applied to protected area and let run down the panel.






I then used a heat gun to dry the product fully and bake it into the surface. As in a warm day.










Once dried.




















The test area was then washed with shampoo and water and rinsed once more with an open ended hose. To check for damage to the paint and sealant.































*No damage was reported. I then moved on to G101 APC.*











Tested PH of G101. Undiluted










And applied as before. Let the product run down panel and dried with hot air gun to bake in.



















































As before Washed with Shampoo and rinsed with hose. Then inspected.
Again no damage reported.




















*Smart Wheels this time.*










Ph of Smart Wheels undiluted










Applied and let run off.

















Baked on and dried as before.




















Followed the same routine and washed and dried.




















All in all the Aquartz passed with flying colours in this chemical test. I then conducted the same tests on an untreated area.

Wheel Brightner. Test area Prior 









G101. Test area Prior










Smart Wheels. Test area Prior.










Products applied and dried off as before.
Wheel Brightners showed some damage but harder to catch with the camera.





















G101 Again more damage and etched the surface.




















Smart Wheels was the worst product in this test and cause the more noticeable damage to the paint.




















So all in all I think this show the product ability to resist this type of etching and paint damage.

*Please do not try this to you car as a scrap panel was used in this test.*

So until the next review. I will leave it there.
Scratch test to follow.
Gordon.


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## 03OKH

Excellent & Informative write up :thumb:


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## Dream Machines

amazing review Gordon. iron cut is a winner. it provided a darker shade a blue to one of my cars which has had more TLC than 50 cars. its had everything on it. 

what I noticed with Aquartz + by hand and rotary was a thicker clear coat measurement by PTG. the colour coats and flake now look further away from the clear.


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## WHIZZER

Great Follow up report - Interesting results


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## NewYaris

its really awesome write up ... You make this product look excellent. its another nano tech breakthrough for paint surface ...


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## Cquartz

WHIZZER said:


> Great Follow up report - Interesting results


yes Bill , i also think its interesting.


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## WHIZZER

Aquartz said:


> yes Bill , i also think its interesting.


Goes to show the protective qualities of the Aquartz - Those products have done some fairly bad etching on the paintwork but the Aquartz from Gordons post looks to have saved damage to the paint

Gordon Wondered if you could try and leave the panel under a tree


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## spitfire

Good to see you getting back to those wonderfull tests you do Gordon. The Aquarts certainly seems to work well. Do you think it increases shine or gloss compared with other products you've tried. Marks out of ten perhaps?

Thanks for taking the time to do this :thumb:


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## caledonia

NewYaris said:


> its really awesome write up ... You make this product look excellent. its another nano tech breakthrough for paint surface ...


I hope to only show the product as it is in real life incidences. Product come and some go. But its not often that a product or a group of product come along that do exactly as they state. At present just putting the product though there passes. Hopefully showing the up side and possible down side as they come along.
But thanks for the positive comment always welcome.



WHIZZER said:


> Goes to show the protective qualities of the Aquartz - Those products have done some fairly bad etching on the paintwork but the Aquartz from Gordons post looks to have saved damage to the paint
> 
> Gordon Wondered if you could try and leave the panel under a tree


I know exactly where you are going with that comment Bill, as I have had a similar experience in the past with these type of product. But Aquartz can be clayed so tree sap should not be an issue. And the fact that if caught early enough you can use an APC wash and it will not damage you paint or the coating should also help.
But I will see what I can arrange. :thumb:



spitfire said:


> Good to see you getting back to those wonderfull tests you do Gordon. The Aquarts certainly seems to work well. Do you think it increases shine or gloss compared with other products you've tried. Marks out of ten perhaps?
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to do this :thumb:


Shine and Gloss is a hard one Dougie. I believe I seen an increase in gloss and clarity. But is it just me or a placebo effect. I do not know. I will get the reflective index rating compare at sometime soon. And hopefully will be in a better position to say for sure.

Test and experiments are all fun and good Dougie. But right from the off on this one I felt good about it. After speaking to Avi. He is a very straight and honest man. Just tells is as it is. He told me what it does, what to expect, and also the limitations the product might have and how to work around these if encountered. Never interested in any other brand. Just his own.

So will a great deal of Patience and understand I ventured into it with a vast knowledge his product and how to get the most from them.
It was a no brainier really.

The main reason for using the chemicals in the test was to point out. Even though members feel these product are safe, and no additionally protection is needed. They can go wrong and cause damage especially if left to dry on the surface. Yes they will be diluted down but even so this damage will still happen just more slowly. So care and protection to you cars paint and wheel should be paramount and never be lax when working with chemicals and warmer temperatures.

Lets not forget Aquartz can be used as a glass rain repellent. So if IPA cant remove it. There is very little chance of a screen wash removing this also. Although this test has not been posted so far.

It is a general all rounder Glass, Wheels, paint, trim. Good UV factors and again a certain scratch resistant qualities. But you can see this within the coming weeks.

Gordon.


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## Techgeek

thanks for the test gordon I bought the introductory starter pack after speaking to you about it at the rotary training day and I'm very impressed with it's self cleaning and sheeting abilities got it on my bonnet and wing and it is far better than the rest of the car, now I just need to get my end of course exams for uni out the way so I can have the time to wetsand the rest of the car and get it finished.
Avi was very helpful, he phoned after the kit arrived and gave me some useful pointers, although I probably didn't make much sense to him as I had just woken up after a late night callout so I was a little dopey

Applying by rotary was far better than applying by hand IMO


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## caledonia

Glad you like the product M8 and look forward to seeing the finished car.

This is one of the good points to this product also. It is up to the user what application method is employed and providing you remember to start to wipe straight away, and your car is cool enough. You should not have any issues applying or removing it.

The sheeting is very impressive I have to agree.
Gordon.


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## Cquartz

Techgeek said:


> thanks for the test gordon I bought the introductory starter pack after speaking to you about it at the rotary training day and I'm very impressed with it's self cleaning and sheeting abilities got it on my bonnet and wing and it is far better than the rest of the car, now I just need to get my end of course exams for uni out the way so I can have the time to wetsand the rest of the car and get it finished.
> Avi was very helpful, he phoned after the kit arrived and gave me some useful pointers, although I probably didn't make much sense to him as I had just woken up after a late night callout so I was a little dopey
> 
> Applying by rotary was far better than applying by hand IMO


Sorry for waking you up that day


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## Techgeek

It's ok I would have regretted staying in bed too late. my work allows us to sleep in late if we are called out late but then you just end up working on later to catch up:thumb:


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## WHIZZER

caledonia said:


> I know exactly where you are going with that comment Bill, as I have had a similar experience in the past with these type of product. But Aquartz can be clayed so tree sap should not be an issue. And the fact that if caught early enough you can use an APC wash and it will not damage you paint or the coating should also help.
> But I will see what I can arrange. :thumb:
> 
> .


top man :thumb:


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## Techgeek

A wee tip if you cant apply it indoors, if you do the recommended application method in direct sunlight youll get nowhere the product dries rock solid very quickly and is _very_ difficult to get off.

It can be done though, i've come across a wee technique that lets you apply it on a sunny day. use a microfibre applicator pad, put 1 and only 1 spritz of product on the panel then IMMEDIATELY buff it over a large area very thin with the mf pad and keep rubbing until it disappears, go at it like a ****ing ninja, with a fair bit pressure and speed it will disappear into the paint quickly, then do the same on the next part of the panel, 1 sprits then buff like a lunatic till it disappears and the panel is nice and wet looking, then once it is applied give the whole panel a good burnish with the rotary for 5 or 10 minutes to get some heat into it, then a final buff with the fluffy side of the excellent included MF cloth.

Then do the same for another coat of aquartz, then the aquartz+. worked a treat I've never seen flake pop like this on the crap paint on my car.

The amount and type of buffing you need to do by hand to begin with you'll end up with arms like popeye but it's worth it because believe me you dont want to go trying to buff in 5 sprays of product at the one time in direct sunlight, I had to use g3 on wool to get the hardened residue off.


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## DiamondD

Good info. thanks for the review.


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## Markus

caledonia said:


> Lets not forget Aquartz can be used as a glass rain repellent. So if IPA cant remove it. There is very little chance of a screen wash removing this also. Although this test has not been posted so far.


I applied 2 coats to my windscreen yesterday.
I will keep you updated how it works :thumb:


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## Cquartz

Markus said:


> I applied 2 coats to my windscreen yesterday.
> I will keep you updated how it works :thumb:


Hi Markus
so how was your car after first ever applying Aquartz to it,?



Techgeek said:


> A wee tip if you cant apply it indoors, if you do the recommended application method in direct sunlight youll get nowhere the product dries rock solid very quickly and is _very_ difficult to get off.
> 
> It can be done though, i've come across a wee technique that lets you apply it on a sunny day. use a microfibre applicator pad, put 1 and only 1 spritz of product on the panel then IMMEDIATELY buff it over a large area very thin with the mf pad and keep rubbing until it disappears, go at it like a ****ing ninja, with a fair bit pressure and speed it will disappear into the paint quickly, then do the same on the next part of the panel, 1 sprits then buff like a lunatic till it disappears and the panel is nice and wet looking, then once it is applied give the whole panel a good burnish with the rotary for 5 or 10 minutes to get some heat into it, then a final buff with the fluffy side of the excellent included MF cloth.
> 
> Then do the same for another coat of aquartz, then the aquartz+. worked a treat I've never seen flake pop like this on the crap paint on my car.
> 
> The amount and type of buffing you need to do by hand to begin with you'll end up with arms like popeye but it's worth it because believe me you dont want to go trying to buff in 5 sprays of product at the one time in direct sunlight, I had to use g3 on wool to get the hardened residue off.


Techgeek
did you applied Aquartz by now, i didnt hear your feedback how was it?


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## neil b

I have got three layers of aquartz on my car now and i must say i am impressed with it ,have to put my pictures up of my car.A little goes along way with aquartz,Sheeting is very good have to trying washing car by hand to test hardness as my car is black and has soft paint.Applying the aquartz was easy enough just machine into paintwork till fine film remains then buff off film with mf cloth then i used hair dyer to speed up curing on the panel,then waiting 1 hour before applying next layer.:thumb:,All so does a great job in hiding fine swirl and scratches on your car too.


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## Cquartz

Hi Gordon

How is your testing going so far ?

i dont want to be so Arrogant , but i think guys here didnt see and understand what have you done here in your test.(or maybe they are still in shock from your pics)
you actually *BAKED* strong Alkaline acids on car paint !!! 
and i repeat , baked with heat gun 500 deg.C on paint surface!!
guys.... please dont buy Aquartz !!!,but just show me any other sealant which will prevent any damage on car paint and withstand such conditions
Moderators, forgive me for my attitude or my language but i couldnt help it....


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## Techgeek

I've only done the bonnet and front wings so far due to time pressure but I am very happy with it so far, nice wet look and has really brought out the flake in my paint, it has wee purple and green flakes it it I've never seen before. Sheeting is fantastic and it makes the treated panels very easy to clean, especially with all these greenflies I've been driving through this week. I really want to hurry up and finish my exams so I can do the rest of the car. 
only time will tell for the durability, but if theres an abused work mule to try it on it's my insignia, it's got 50k on it and it's nearly a year old and I sometimes wash it with a brush when I've been offroading. I havent tried the iron cut yet, nothing to try it on.
It feels a bit wasted putting a nice product on really crap paint like mine but I want to try both this and C1 long term befor I decide what to use on the mrs new car when we get it.


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## blake_jl

This test thread would be more beneficial for your product if you didn't post things like this in it.

Just yesterday I Googled for reviews on another well known brand and came up with a Detailing World thread. Unfortunately the distributor's comments and thank yous were all through the thread.

Kind of cheapens the whole point of the thread and you wonder if people don't post anything negative because they don't want to offend the manufacturer/distributor who is always hovering around watching things.

I am quite impressed by the heat gun test though, but the above is my honest opinion.



Aquartz said:


> Hi Gordon
> 
> How is your testing going so far ?
> 
> i dont want to be so Arrogant , but i think guys here didnt see and understand what have you done here in your test.(or maybe they are still in shock from your pics)
> you actually *BAKED* strong Alkaline acids on car paint !!!
> and i repeat , baked with heat gun 500 deg.C on paint surface!!
> guys.... please dont buy Aquartz !!!,but just show me any other sealant which will prevent any damage on car paint and withstand such conditions
> Moderators, forgive me for my attitude or my language but i couldnt help it....


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## caledonia

Glad to see members taking on new and innovative products and trying it for themselves.

I understand where you are coming from Avi as I have spoken to you at long length on the phone.

Where you are not a UK resident and speak a foreign language. Sometime the translation or understanding a foreign language can be frustrating. As you know what you wish to say, but the translation lets you done. Never mind. Being bi Lingual is a plus

As you have rightfully said that was the true meaning of the post. Not only to leave the product on the surface. But to increase is strength and damage these type of products can do. Hopefully to open members eyes to 2 things. The possible damage these product could cause it used wrongly or left to dry on the surface of your wheels or cars paint work. But secondly to show that your sealant is resistant to both Acid and alkaline products and it does not damage the layer or the paint work underneath, even at extreme strengths due to the concentration that occurred with evaporation. 

For members that do not know the strength or make up of these chemicals Here are the MSDS Sheets.
# Wheel Brightener.
http://www.meguiars.com/msds/D140.pdf

G101.
http://www.autosmart.co.uk/images/PDF%20Folder/Autosmart%20COSHH%20sheets/G101%20-%20SDS10174%20-%20GBR.pdf

Smart Wheels.
http://www.autosmart.co.uk/images/PDF%20Folder/Autosmart%20COSHH%20sheets/SMART%20WHEELS%20-%20SDS10559%20-%20GBR.pdf

This should help a few understand the total make up of the products used. 

I have continued to carry out test on the panel occasionally this week. Not as strong as before. But general high strength wash products. Snow foam at full strength and also shampoos of different brands at 3 time there recommended dilutions. I have also treated the test area with Tardis 4 times now and clayed the area twice. So in short a battery of test still getting carried out on the Aquartz.
The sheeting ability of the product is still there and nothing really to report, as far as the product showing signs of breaking down.

Tardis MSDS.
http://www.autosmart.co.uk/images/PDF%20Folder/Autosmart%20COSHH%20sheets/TARDIS%20-%20SDS10022%20-%20GBR.pdf

I hope to free up sometime tomorrow after a protection detail. To apply the coating to the windscreen of my car and side windows. See how it performs in real life situations. Toward the weekend I plan to again free up time and get the scratch resistance checked out. Providing both details days go according to plan. Try to demonstrate the products ability to decrease the likely hood of inflicting damage by 50%. Not as easy as it sounds as, it is very hard to try and cause damage. When you have always tried to master your technique not to mar paint. :lol:

I have know doubt Iron cut will be getting used tomorrow once more, prior to machine polishing once more.
Gordon.


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## PhillipM

How much is the iron cut?
The buggy is covered in grinding dust, so it might be worth a good soaking in that before i attempt to run the polisher over it!


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## caledonia

PhillipM said:


> How much is the iron cut?
> The buggy is covered in grinding dust, so it might be worth a good soaking in that before i attempt to run the polisher over it!


Do not quote me on this but I think the traders are retailing this at approx £16. 
Mist the areas with the product from the spray bottle and wipe over the surface to make it uniform. Leave approx 5 to 10 minutes in a cold area. But do not let the product dry on the finish. Rinse off and the carry on with you usual wash process.

You will see the product working as there is a very distinctive colour change when it come in contact with Ferrous metals and the like.

http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2ei4detailing%2eco%2euk%2fcgi%2dbin%2fss000001%2epl%3fpage%3dsearch%26SS%3dde%20contamination%26PR%3d%2d1%26TB%3dA&WD=cut%20iron&PN=Aquartz_Iron_Cut_1%2ehtml%23aAQIC500#aAQIC500

Gordon.


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## PhillipM

The usual wash process is just aim the pressure washer at it and wait until you can actually see the paint


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## Prism Detailing

Excellent review Gordon, Iron Cut is a definate buy as i can think of soo many times this would have been useful.


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## Cquartz

blake_jl said:


> This test thread would be more beneficial for your product if you didn't post things like this in it.
> 
> Just yesterday I Googled for reviews on another well known brand and came up with a Detailing World thread. Unfortunately the distributor's comments and thank yous were all through the thread.
> 
> Kind of cheapens the whole point of the thread and you wonder if people don't post anything negative because they don't want to offend the manufacturer/distributor who is always hovering around watching things.
> 
> I am quite impressed by the heat gun test though, but the above is my honest opinion.


Hi Black, 
i dont push or threat anyone, they are welcome to post negetive comments too, if you call my threads hovering maybe you should not read about Aquartz
we are trying to show revolution tech, who ever dont like it, should not buy it. i dont see any problem to thank people for there nice comments.


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## TPC3

Avi,
This forum is for having an open discussion. Everyone is giving their opinion about their experience with this new technology. We too in India are testing Aquartz, and have had different experiences with the results. The conditions in India are very severe and the problems we are facing or will face are going to be different then those experienced by various seasoned detailing testers. I think you should take it calmly. Eventually business of a good product cannot stop. Just like Iron cut.

This was a 6 yr old car done with Aquartz.

__
https://flic.kr/p/4623353583


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## blake_jl

Aquartz said:


> Hi Black,
> i dont push or threat anyone, they are welcome to post negetive comments too, if you call my threads hovering maybe you should not read about Aquartz
> we are trying to show revolution tech, who ever dont like it, should not buy it. i dont see any problem to thank people for there nice comments.


Don't get defensive. I am just saying that this test is very thorough and the tester has done an excellent job. I am actually impressed by the results BUT your comments like this below make the post commercial and it no longer feels like an independent test.



Aquartz said:


> Hi Gordon
> 
> How is your testing going so far ?
> 
> i dont want to be so Arrogant , but i think guys here didnt see and understand what have you done here in your test.(or maybe they are still in shock from your pics)
> you actually *BAKED* strong Alkaline acids on car paint !!!
> and i repeat , baked with heat gun 500 deg.C on paint surface!!
> guys.... please dont buy Aquartz !!!,but just show me any other sealant which will prevent any damage on car paint and withstand such conditions
> Moderators, forgive me for my attitude or my language but i couldnt help it....


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## gt5500

blake_jl said:


> Don't get defensive. I am just saying that this test is very thorough and the tester has done an excellent job. I am actually impressed by the results BUT your comments like this below make the post commercial and it no longer feels like an independent test.


With all due respect I sort of see what you are getting at but Avi is a paid up supporter so like the other traders on here he is entitled to blow his own trumpet as it were. As far as I can work it out all that has happened is Gordon did a good review and Avi commented on how that showed that his product is as good as he claims, also try not to forget that Avi is not from the UK so his language will come across differently as English is not his first language.


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## quattrogmbh

Aquartz said:


> you actually *BAKED* strong Alkaline acids on car paint !!!
> and i repeat , baked with heat gun 500 deg.C on paint surface!!


I doubt if automotive paint can tolerate 500degC for a sustained period, let alone any sealant.
Where though is the evidence that the panel reached 500degC?


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## dschia

Hmm, I have some reservations regarding the heat gun test although I must say it is very impressive for protection. How long was the heat gun used to bake the chemical? In our tropical climate where we get 30+degree daily and for practical issue, I will be keen to see how it protects against cars that parked outdoor and expose to those acidic bird**** or harmful rain over like 6hrs (10am-3pm).


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## christian900se

dschia said:


> Hmm, I have some reservations regarding the heat gun test although I must say it is very impressive for protection. How long was the heat gun used to bake the chemical? In our tropical climate where we get 30+degree daily and for practical issue, I will be keen to see how it protects against cars that parked outdoor and expose to those acidic bird**** or harmful rain over like 6hrs (10am-3pm).


Even if the heat gun achieved 100C, it would still represent conditions which a car would never come to face and yet still shows the barrier layer of Aquartz was able to withstand marring compared to the unprotected paint surface which showed significant damage. I think this is less a numbers game as far as it is showing how even conditions which could never happen in normal car duty will not adversely affect the layer of Aquartz.


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## TPC3

*Heat Gun*

The heat gun is just to speed up the process. Avi, suggests 500 deg C so that the job could be done faster. The temperature would never be that hot on the surface of the paint as you are constantly moving the gun. The inorganic sealant basically is just fusing to the paint pores. This ensures while buffing off you are not removing the nano based product. If one has limited time, and you want to do 3 coats, then the heat gun is required. Otherwise you could do one coat every day if you have hot summers like us in India. We did this 6 year old car in 5 hours right from washing, claying, removing the scratches and swirls and finally coating with Aquartz (3 coats) and Aquartz+.


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## WHIZZER

Ok chaps this is about Caledonias review of the product not about the supplier etc so lets try and keep it on track as the products look to be very good.


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## quattrogmbh

Yep, who cares about the science so long as it shines ;-)


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## NewYaris

dschia said:


> Hmm, I have some reservations regarding the heat gun test although I must say it is very impressive for protection. How long was the heat gun used to bake the chemical? In our tropical climate where we get 30+degree daily and for practical issue, I will be keen to see how it protects against cars that parked outdoor and expose to those acidic bird**** or harmful rain over like 6hrs (10am-3pm).


Ya, its very impressive brothallll .... Im interesting in Iron cut lol, however the shipping cost kill me off 

Avi, any distributor in Spore???


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## Cquartz

NewYaris
i sent you PM, 
we have someone in Malaysia also , if you want to buy from there.


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## caledonia

Thanks Bill for getting it back on topic.

Although the heat gun was use to dry out the chemicals so speeding up evaporation. It was set to 500C but at no point did the panel attain any temperature close to this. It was continually moved and held at a distance of approx 15 inches form the surface. 

It was Mealy used a a tool as explained.

The subject of an acid test is demonstrated on Aquartz web site in the video section and should help a few with there question. But remember Bird bombs are alkaline in nature not acidic, which the sealant has been demonstrated in the test to be quite resilient in dealing with this type of chemical. Although at present I cannot comment on long term exposure to this type of attack.


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## Cquartz

Gordon,
Birds bombs are not only Alkaline, it contain Amonia too, and the biggest problem is the sunshine, its baking this destructive mixture into the paint.
the more its there the more it will burn the clear coat.


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## caledonia

I agree Avi.
But ammonia is a mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas. It is very caustic and when mixed with water it becomes. Ammonium Hydroxide which has a very high Ph of almost 12. It is the continual baking and wetting due to moisture the continually causes the etching of the finish. The initial incident cause cause the break down of the clear and removal should take place ASAP. To safe guard the finish of the car. 

Your product has shown resilience to Alkaline substances in my initial test. But not prolonged exposure to this type of attack. I will try and work on a similar test to verify the product ability to resist.
I have not mentioned crystallised Uric Acid. which can also cause severe damage to the finish of your car if rubbed across your paint. Birds have a habit of also eating fine gravel to aid digestion. Which added to the problems as it passes through undigested.
Gordon.


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## Techgeek

the aquartz is doing a great job on my paintwork, makes washing all these flys off we're getting the now really easy, but on my glass it's doing a crap job if i'm honest, water takes ages to get blown off and my wipers are smearing now nowhere near as good as the turtle wax professional range sealant I had on the glass before has anyone else found this or it it just me?
theres also lines now where it looks like the wipers have scratched the glass like on my old car, i'm hoping it's just the aquartz coating getting marked by the wiper blades.
Whats the best method to strip aquartz off glass? Or should I ust put another sealer over the top of it. I'm running low on the twp stuff so I thought I'd give G3 a try.


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## Cquartz

Techgeek said:


> the aquartz is doing a great job on my paintwork, makes washing all these flys off we're getting the now really easy, but on my glass it's doing a crap job if i'm honest, water takes ages to get blown off and my wipers are smearing now nowhere near as good as the turtle wax professional range sealant I had on the glass before has anyone else found this or it it just me?
> theres also lines now where it looks like the wipers have scratched the glass like on my old car, i'm hoping it's just the aquartz coating getting marked by the wiper blades.
> Whats the best method to strip aquartz off glass? Or should I ust put another sealer over the top of it. I'm running low on the twp stuff so I thought I'd give G3 a try.


Hi techgeek, (forgot your name)
did you clean well the glass before, i mean striped all before the glass coat?it seems from you description you had oily stuff leftovers before the coat
did you use Aquartz+ on it also after Aquartz, if yes, you shouldnt.
aquartz cant scratch your glass, its not that hard  , you should check your wipers for those scratches , or if it got any chips scrubing while they worked.
clean well the glass with IPA or stronger alcohol, clay it even, then re-coat again with Aquartz, only Aquartz!, it meant to be used mainly on car body , the glass is xtra , but it do give nice rain repellent if you do it properly.
another possible reason for smearing is the washer liquid soap you use, 
most of them use Tenside additive which kind of leave a layer material on the glass , above the coat, any coat, (even G3) the best washer liquid we suggest is IPA 1:1 with water.
let me know how it go


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## Techgeek

I gave the glass a good clean with glass cleaner then 100% IPA then followed the supplied instructions. I dont know what the marks were that looked like scratches I think they must be aquartz residue but they came out with prepsolv today. There are hundreds of stonechips in the glass but the wiper blades are only a few weeks old. I think I'll stick to a dedicated glass sealant for the windows but I'm amazed at aquartz for the paintwork. Today while driving down a dirt track to get to a remote customers house I caught a rut with my wheel and dragged the side of the car down a hedge. I was cursing myself, plenty of RDS, probably about 12 down the doors but on the front wing treated with aquartz only 1 RDS I can see.
I need to keep nagging my boss that I need an X3 for a company car instead:thumb:


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## GeeTeeEye

Great write up Gordon. Could I ask, where does this fit in to a normal detailing routine. Does this replace the polishing and sealant layers ? and would you still apply a wax coat on top of the Aquartz+ ?


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## caledonia

GeeTeeEye said:


> Great write up Gordon. Could I ask, where does this fit in to a normal detailing routine. Does this replace the polishing and sealant layers ? and would you still apply a wax coat on top of the Aquartz+ ?


Where Aquartz + does hide 50% of the swirl marks. From a detailing point of view. I would not turn my back on the polishing stage. Yes it would replace the sealant stage and give your finish the ultimate protection against UV damage. It will also safe guard your finish by reducing the chance of marring by 50%.

Now this is where the user comes in and Aquartz is not what I would class as a beading or sheeting product, as it is hydrophilic. So the way it has been designed is to let the water flush away and carry any dust or grit with this. The manufacturer. Claims and rightfully so that beading can cause a few issues with chemical etching to the finish as the water evaporates off and leaves any chemicals in a stronger solution on the finish. It also collects dust a grit as the water evaporates and leave dirty rings on there finish. Which could cause marring if not rinsed prior.

If beading is required. Then yes you can apply a wax over the top of it and still have all the benefits of the Aquartz underneath your chosen LSP.

Hope this explains a bit more.
Gordon.


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## GeeTeeEye

caledonia said:


> Where Aquartz + does hide 50% of the swirl marks. From a detailing point of view. I would not turn my back on the polishing stage. Yes it would replace the sealant stage and give your finish the ultimate protection against UV damage. It will also safe guard your finish by reducing the chance of marring by 50%.
> 
> Now this is where the user comes in and Aquartz is not what I would class as a beading or sheeting product, as it is hydrophilic. So the way it has been designed is to let the water flush away and carry any dust or grit with this. The manufacturer. Claims and rightfully so that beading can cause a few issues with chemical etching to the finish as the water evaporates off and leaves any chemicals in a stronger solution on the finish. It also collects dust a grit as the water evaporates and leave dirty rings on there finish. Which could cause marring if not rinsed prior.
> 
> If beading is required. Then yes you can apply a wax over the top of it and still have all the benefits of the Aquartz underneath your chosen LSP.
> 
> Hope this explains a bit more.
> Gordon.


Explains it perfectly, thanks. :thumb:

I've ordered this kit so will see how it goes.


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## caledonia

GeeTeeEye said:


> Explains it perfectly, thanks. :thumb:
> 
> I've ordered this kit so will see how it goes.


When It arrives fire over a PM and I will run over a few ways to apply the products. Plenty of spare panels in the unit. :thumb:


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## GeeTeeEye

caledonia said:


> When It arrives fire over a PM and I will run over a few ways to apply the products. Plenty of spare panels in the unit. :thumb:


Excellent, I will do Gordon, thanks.


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## maarten22

Where can you order this stuff?


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## NAJ

here: http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Aquartz.html

if this is OK. if it's not by the rules, i will deleted my post


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## ahmadkhairil

Aquartz said:


> NewYaris
> i sent you PM,
> we have someone in Malaysia also , if you want to buy from there.


i would slao like to know the malaysian contact


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## lowejackson

Excellent thread, sounds like a very interesting range. How easy is the Aquartz & Aquartz+ to use on intricate paint such as the inside of doors or bootlids, where it is not possible to use a machine and hard buffing can be tricky. 

One final, if off topic question, what is the different between using Aquartz and XtraVue on windscreens


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## Cquartz

lowejackson said:


> Excellent thread, sounds like a very interesting range. How easy is the Aquartz & Aquartz+ to use on intricate paint such as the inside of doors or bootlids, where it is not possible to use a machine and hard buffing can be tricky.
> 
> One final, if off topic question, what is the different between using Aquartz and XtraVue on windscreens


on such area's you need to use only by hand MF buffing, as best as you can.

Aquartz and XtraVue has both rain repellent properties from 60~70kmh ,both very easy to apply.
XtraVue will last longer on the glass, but with aquartz you can re-fresh the coat from time to time. 
XtraVue once activated need to finish the aplicatore, cant be stored , while aquartz can be stored more then a year.


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