# Advice please on Jeffs Werkstat products,



## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

Ok ive heard good reports on this range so have managed to secure the following items..
Here are the links below.
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-prime-acrylic.html
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-prime-strong.html
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-acrylic-jett-trigger.html
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-acrylic-glos.html

can i have some advice on these products , starting a car from scratch after prep what order to apply these products and how to etc and if anything is missing?

With waxes i generally just go head first in and learn as i go along but i know these kind of products have ways to get the best out of them so advice would be helpful , im not even sure what ive got above but bought them anyway as got a good deal.

Many thanks..


----------



## Spoony (May 28, 2007)

AFAIK order would be Prime (either one) then Acrylic Jett, then Trigger. Essentially the set is a base, spray sealant and quick detailer so you could consider it this way.

Also I do like the new PB site - nice stuff


----------



## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

Do you mean prime acrylic or strong then acryllic jet trigger then lastly acrylic glos quick detailer?


----------



## -tom- (Jan 27, 2009)

if you have a look mark at polish bliss it gives u detailed way of applying 


Werkstat Prime Acrylic can be applied equally well by hand or dual action machine. For best results by hand, it should be applied to freshly clayed paint using a Meguiar’s Microfibre Applicator Pad. Only 3-4 pea-sized drops of product are required per panel, and these should be wiped in as firmly and evenly as possible to produce a film that should then be allowed to dry for up to 10 minutes. Once hazed over, this film should then be buffed off carefully using a Poorboy’s Super Thick & Plush Towel (if the film proves difficult to remove at first, lightly mist it with Werkstat Acrylic Glos and continue buffing). For best results using a dual action polisher, Werkstat Prime Acrylic should be applied to freshly clayed paint using a Lake Country 140 mm Glazing Pad. Only 3-4 pea-sized drops of product are required per panel, and these should be worked in thoroughly at around 3000-4000 orbits per minute (speed 3-4 on most dual action machine polishers) until only a thin film remains. After being allowed to haze over for up to 10 minutes, this film should then be buffed off carefully using a Poorboy’s Super Thick & Plush Towel (if the film proves difficult to remove at first, lightly mist it with Werkstat Acrylic Glos and continue buffing).


----------



## mike_shrops (Oct 27, 2007)

As above, Prime first, then Jett Trigger, and use Glos for any QD duties and for a post wash wipedown.

With trigger, I've read that you should leave about 30mins between layers, so you should be able to get a few layers done in a day, then you can top it up after the next wash, depending on how many layers you want to try for. 

I've used my kit a few times now and have been well impressed with the results and ease of use, particularly in colder weather.


----------



## Spoony (May 28, 2007)

Prime acrylic can be the base, then you can use acrylic trigger as a spray sealant you can spray it on before buffing to use it to aid buffing off - at least that was my understanding.


----------



## -tom- (Jan 27, 2009)

edit i have the instructions in the garge i will go find them


----------



## notsosmall (Sep 13, 2008)

Prime is first and it acts as your base layer preparing the paint for the sealant but also leaves a small amount of sealant behind, i do it by hand whole car then buff using trigger at the same time it comes off very easily 

Then its trigger (Acrylic Jett) time this is the main sealant topcoat, very easy to use 1 spritz directly on each panel spread with a mf turn and buff, you should leave 30 between layer and repeat as above as many times as you like it gets better and easier each time, most i have done is 7 and it was amazing 

The Gloss is basically a QD but with a bit of added protection in


----------



## Ultra (Feb 25, 2006)

Spoony said:


> Prime acrylic can be the base, then you can use acrylic trigger as a spray sealant you can spray it on before buffing to use it to aid buffing off - at least that was my understanding.


prime is the base and trigger is a sealant, glos is a qd that is also helpful when removing prime :thumb:


----------



## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

ok this is sounding fun. I may strip my whole car and try this out.

So the difference between Prime acrylic and Prime strong?


----------



## Leemack (Mar 6, 2009)

I have the Jeffs kit after seeing good reviews on here and i used it for the first time last week and it is very good


----------



## mike_shrops (Oct 27, 2007)

vxrmarc said:


> ok this is sounding fun. I may strip my whole car and try this out.
> 
> So the difference between Prime acrylic and Prime strong?


Strong has a stronger mix of the cleaning chemicals (and possibly a little extra protection going by the PB description), so it's ideal for cleansing and protecting wheels and door shuts etc, and I've read of a few people using it to cleanse glass too. If your car is nicely polished (and having read your project thread I imagine it is!) then you'd probably be better off sticking with the normal Prime for the paintwork, then top it off with loads of layers of Jett Trigger.

That said, if the car has a few light swirls, you could try strong by machine - I did this on a colleagues Saab 9-3 a while back and it did a good job of removing the lighter marks. I applied it using a Megs polishing pad on a G220, so I imagine the pad did most of the cutting, but side-by-side it seemed to offer more correction than the normal prime on the same pad.


----------



## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

ok this is the kind of advice im after , thanks for the input guys..


----------



## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

just to bed used this kit a few times and best to leave prime, be it acrylic or strong for at least 30 mins before buffing. As long as you worked it long enough it will fly off. Then as stated 30 mins between coats


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

vxrmarc said:


> ok this is sounding fun. I may strip my whole car and try this out.
> 
> So the difference between Prime acrylic and Prime strong?


Strong has abrasives and Acrylic (and all the others) dont. Strong can be used by machine for a final finish, but being water based it doesnt last long.

Acrylic is the ideal AIO prep for the paint, before layers of AJT, and is a damn good AIO in my experience. Its easy to use and top tip is to leave it a few mins to haze, then (before buffing off) spray on the first layer of AJT and buff it all off together. You can layer AJT after 30 mins as well, making it a great product to get a few quick easy layers on in 1 session :thumb:


----------



## Ste T (Jul 17, 2008)

vxrmarc said:


> ok this is sounding fun. I may strip my whole car and try this out.


:doublesho and strip off all that PDWax? but then again its been a while since we have had a epic Marc thread.... good on you...:thumb:


----------



## mike_shrops (Oct 27, 2007)

Bigpikle said:


> Strong has abrasives and Acrylic (and all the others) dont. Strong can be used by machine for a final finish, but being water based it doesnt last long.
> 
> Acrylic is the ideal AIO prep for the paint, before layers of AJT, and is a damn good AIO in my experience. Its easy to use and top tip is to leave it a few mins to haze, then (before buffing off) spray on the first layer of AJT and buff it all off together. You can layer AJT after 30 mins as well, making it a great product to get a few quick easy layers on in 1 session :thumb:


I'm pretty sure Strong doesn't have any abrasives, just a stronger mix of cleaning chemicals. At least that's what I remember reading on the read on the PB site when I bought it.

I haven't tried going straight to Trigger before buffing the Prime, but I'll give it a try next time I use the kit on my dad's XF - its a big old thing and every little time saving helps in this weather!


----------



## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

20RSport said:


> :doublesho and strip off all that PDWax? but then again its been a while since we have had a epic Marc thread.... good on you...:thumb:


Nah i stripped al that off ages ago. my car is currently wearing 3 layers of a new Lusso High end wax not yet available i dont think but being tested.

http://www.vxronline.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=70371


----------



## notsosmall (Sep 13, 2008)

Straight from the werkstatt site

Prime Strong:

Description: We think of this formula as a 120% version of Prime! It employs both more acrylic polymers for better durability and protection and also an incrementally stronger polishing agent to address more paint imperfections. This formula takes Prime a step toward a finishing polish and can eliminate the need for a separate finishing polish in many instances. Prime: Strong can address light marring and swirling more effectively than Prime, yet the polishing agents--though stronger--are still gentle enough for regular use. It makes a beautiful, easy hand polish for those without machine polishers, and it works quite well as a chrome polish and sealant.

Prime Acrylic:

Description: While the standard Prime is wonderfully balanced between all of its functional requirements, we wanted to push the formula further toward the acrylic sealant aspect. Prime: Acrylic maximizes the content of acrylic polymers for improved durabiity while maintaining the ease-of-use that Prime is known for. This formula is tailored for the detailer using Prime as a stand-alone, all-in-one cleaner/wax rather than as a basecoat for further layers. (Although even as a basecoat, a little extra durability never hurts!) This characteristic is particularly good for areas like engine bays and door jambs where a multi-step process is impractical but where durable protection is important. 

Hope this helps :thumb:


----------



## wfedwar (Dec 21, 2008)

If I've just finished polishing, I'll apply Prime Acrylic by hand and then follow with AJ/AJT until I've built the layers I'm looking for, then finish with AG, which removes any stubborn residues from the AJ/AJT. I occasionally use Prime Strong with the Flex DA to strip back some layers after they have some age just to remove waterspots and refresh the gloss and start over with the AJ/AJT. It's good to have both Primes on hand.


----------



## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

Thoughts of this on solid white?


----------



## 500paul (Jun 19, 2008)

vxrmarc said:


> Thoughts of this on solid white?


My son did this to my car when I first took delivery , it looked superb when he'd finished doing all the hard work :lol:.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=92940&highlight=fiat+500


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Great choice on white Marc - one of the best


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

mike_shrops said:


> I'm pretty sure Strong doesn't have any abrasives, just a stronger mix of cleaning chemicals. At least that's what I remember reading on the read on the PB site when I bought it.
> 
> I haven't tried going straight to Trigger before buffing the Prime, but I'll give it a try next time I use the kit on my dad's XF - its a big old thing and every little time saving helps in this weather!


it does have abrasives - I had some realy good conversations with the Jeffs guys in the US about it and how to use it as a final polish. Its water based so you cant work it for long but it def is abrasive


----------



## wfedwar (Dec 21, 2008)

Bigpikle said:


> it does have abrasives - *I had some realy good conversations with the Jeffs guys in the US about it and how to use it as a final polish*. Its water based so you cant work it for long but it def is abrasive


Would you mind posting those or sending them via PM? I am working on the same thing. Thanks.


----------



## mike_shrops (Oct 27, 2007)

Bigpikle said:


> it does have abrasives - I had some realy good conversations with the Jeffs guys in the US about it and how to use it as a final polish. Its water based so you cant work it for long but it def is abrasive


Fair enough :thumb:! That's good to know, explains why it did such a good job the Saab - I thought it was just the Megs polishing pad doing the cutting and the Jeffs doing a bit of cleaning. I applied it by DA, I think at speed 4, and do remember it dried up pretty quickly, but it certainly did the trick. Another string in the Werkstatt bow!

As an aside, I've just been down to B&Q for some grouting sponges so that I can give ONR a go - don't fancy faffing about with the hose & karcher in this weather - so I'll be re-watching your guide later. Looks nice and easy with a bit of common sense.


----------



## ALANSHR (Jun 29, 2007)

Marc, I did my wifes white fiesta st last year and its looks really good on it, lovely sharp reflections, will find the link and add.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=102281

You could also try Clark's thread on his scooby as I think he has about 15 applications on that, its an ice blue one!

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=125351


----------



## ahaydock (Jan 4, 2007)

vxrmarc said:


> Thoughts of this on solid white?


For Solid White and as long as your prep is good then I think Prime followed by multiple layers of AJT finished with a wipedown of Glos cannot be beat.

This is the process for my Ibis White TT. The great stuff about AJT is it is so simple to use and works wonders on glass and trim also :thumb:


----------



## Vyker (Sep 17, 2008)

I'd have to agree with alot of the comments here.

AJT, like Alex says, is just brilliant.

As long as the car is prep'd and clean, you can wipe AJT over everything, sometimes I don't even pay attention to where I'm wiping with my MF and just go over everything, windows, trims, rubbers, glass, I just wipe and wipe. Then when you see you're rubbers and keyhole bead, its very reassuring knowing that AJT is protecting so well.

Also, I never buff off AJT, it's a waste of time, the next layer does the job of buff and reapply. Your last AJT layer once cured can be buffed using Glos. I guess the point I'm raising here is that the concept of apply and buff, doesn't stand true with the Werkstat range. Its made this process simple. And being the laziest detailer here, it brilliant for me


----------



## Tricky Red (Mar 3, 2007)

I think that the Acrylic versions of the Werkstatt range are better than the Carnauba versions, as an aside. I have a yellow Octy VRS and still prefer the look and slickness of Acrylic over the natural warmth of Carnauba (which leaves the surface slightly rougher to the touch). 

I apply Prime by machine on a polishing pad, leave for 30mins then buff. Then apply Jett trigger 30 mins apart - I have 4 layers on the bonnet and roof and the layers do add to the durability. Top up when you want and use Glos to rid the finish of smearing. 

The Werkstatt systems are my favourite since I started detailing and I first bought them summer 07. Not found a better, more simple combination yet. 

Hope that this helps.


----------



## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

Well my swopsies turned up today :argie:


----------



## Rob Tomlin (Apr 26, 2008)

vxrmarc said:


> Well my swopsies turned up today :argie:


:thumb:


----------



## tony_bcn (Sep 13, 2008)

The clay Werkstat not Marc ?
I would like to know the degree of abrasiveness that has, and that such works.

Also do I have all the products Werkstat, less the clay.

Cheers.


----------



## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

I have no idea on the clay?


----------



## tony_bcn (Sep 13, 2008)

vxrmarc said:


> I have no idea on the clay?


Ok Marc !

:thumb:


----------

