# Log burner



## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Given I’m forking out £350 a month at the 
moment for gas and electricity and that will go up come October I’m guessing to £500-£600 a month (how is this possible?!?), looking into options.

One is to get a log burner installed. Just had an initial quote with full details being emailed over later but basically it’s to supply and fit about 9m of flu, recessed log burner, 5 or maybe 5.5kw about 85 or might have been 88% efficiency. Does £2K sound about right? 

The hope is firstly will be cheaper to get decent amount of heat into the main living room and will get some background heat into the gable end wall, possibly going up into the bedroom above. 

Old Victorian property, cellar etc so heating the house up with modern combi isn’t so much the issue it’s how quickly the heat is lost. Loft is insulated well, predominately double glazed, I wouldn’t entertain cavity wall insulation and ripping out the lime plaster ceiling in the cellar to insulate with breathable membrane and insulation will be a right pain. 

Can’t see us wanting to stay so medium to longer term so big longer term solutions not really viable.


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## sharrkey (Sep 11, 2017)

Gonna follow this thread as I’m seriously considering the same when I return from holiday, I did look before but not in any great depth! £2k sounds very reasonable if not a little cheap, from what I can remember a decent quality flue costs nearly as much as 5kw log burner. 

Any way look forward to members posts or your updates on this, I live in a bungalow so idea really for me. 


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

sharrkey said:


> Gonna follow this thread as I’m seriously considering the same when I return from holiday, I did look before but not in any great depth! £2k sounds very reasonable if not a little cheap, from what I can remember a decent quality flue costs nearly as much as 5kw log burner.
> 
> Any way look forward to members posts or your updates on this, I live in a bungalow so idea really for me.
> 
> ...


One company I called, their pre-recorded message said 12-14 weeks just to come out to quote. I’d start now if you are looking. This company is 4-5 weeks if we proceed.


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## PugIain (Jun 28, 2006)

We had one fitted years ago. Not only do we use it for heating but also cooking/boiling water. 
Just don't go paying for wood, not in small amounts anyway. It kind of makes the whole things pointless.
I got loads and loads of timber from an old house a few years back, joists, floorboards all sorts. As long as it's not treated or painted you're fine. Also lots of garden waste from people trimming trees.
There is obviously the initial drying stage with all that though.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Log prices will rocket this winter. Just bate that in mind.


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## Andy from Sandy (May 6, 2011)

How much is wood? If you get some soggy old pine it will be rubbish, IMO.

Have you found a good supplier of hard wood?


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Andy from Sandy said:


> How much is wood? If you get some soggy old pine it will be rubbish, IMO.
> 
> Have you found a good supplier of hard wood?


Yup, have been buying seasoned logs for the fire pit last couple of years. £140 for a ton bag of dried Birch. More you buy the better the economies of scale. I’ve got best part of a full bag in the wood store already.

Burner will never replace the gas but hopefully keep the house warmer than 12-13 degrees which it can get overnight in winter. Bit too chilly even for me.


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## sharrkey (Sep 11, 2017)

Local company delivery this in the area, but I’ve no idea if it’s a good/bad price 











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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

We had one fitted a few years ago, nightmare job but it was so worth it. We live rurally and maintain a wooded area so no shortage for us, but i will say that for sure the modern eficient burners are far superior, the tertiery air flow burns the smoke in the fire box, if i go out at night and shine a light at the chimney there is very little or no smoke, just vapour. We were able to have a small unit and still have to open a window when burning efficiently. Also, get an eco fan or 2 for ontop, you can gently persuade heat to travel where you want it then


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

stangalang said:


> We had one fitted a few years ago, nightmare job but it was so worth it. We live rurally and maintain a wooded area so no shortage for us, but i will say that for sure the modern eficient burners are far superior, the tertiery air flow burns the smoke in the fire box, if i go out at night and shine a light at the chimney there is very little or no smoke, just vapour. We were able to have a small unit and still have to open a window when burning efficiently. Also, get an eco fan or 2 for ontop, you can gently persuade heat to travel where you want it then


Looking at an insert type rather than standalone so fan is a no go unfortunately. This is on the short list.











Or this:-











We have a lovely wooden surround in situ which would be criminal to tear out and the extra mess and hassle of taking a section of the fireplace out isn’t worth it for us.


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Ah yeah for sure fair play. We have our fan pointing to the bottom of the stairs it really does make a difference over time!
All i can say is since we got ours ive gotten soft lol, its so nice to put it on and be comfortable


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

stangalang said:


> Ah yeah for sure fair play. We have our fan pointing to the bottom of the stairs it really does make a difference over time!
> All i can say is since we got ours ive gotten soft lol, its so nice to put it on and be comfortable


Over winter in the early hours it can get to 12/13 degrees. That’s pretty chilly. I’m hoping we can do better than that with the burner in use.


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## Podie (Mar 5, 2019)

£2k sounds a bit light - that’s what I paid 8 years ago for a 5KW stove.

Get a multi fuel stove, as you can put ovoids on which will keep heat in overnight with ease. Although there are longer burning compressed wood things available these days.

Timber prices are going up. Currently 50% higher than they were 2 years ago, and I’m expecting them up again soon.

Be aware that different woods burn at different rates, but stick to the kiln dried stuff As to season wood properly can take years (we had an ash tree trimmed 2 years ago and the smaller bits are probably good enough to burn this winter)

Love ours, and wouldn’t be without one now. The little fans you can get to sit on top of them do seem to make. A difference to the speed to which a room heats up as well, so worth the 20 odd quid they cost (Not suitable for inset Burners, obviously). Having had traditional and inset, I’d say the former kicks out more heat more quickly.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Podie said:


> £2k sounds a bit light - that’s what I paid 8 years ago for a 5KW stove.
> 
> Get a multi fuel stove, as you can put ovoids on which will keep heat in overnight with ease. Although there are longer burning compressed wood things available these days.
> 
> ...


I think both of the ones I’ve been quoted for are multi fuel, unless I’ve misunderstood and can take both wood and coal/similar.


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## Sicskate (Oct 3, 2012)

We have been considering the same... 

We have been quoted £2.3k, the only issue is that I've kind of worked out that it's going to take around 6 years before we save a penny, and I honestly don't think we'll still be living in the same house. 

So in theory it'll be a nice feature for the next owners?!? 

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## 1Valet PRO (Nov 2, 2005)

I get logs from our local landscape gardener. We do get him to cut our hedges once a year too. But due to his work he collected logs along the way. We get two 1 tonne bags in the summer and store them in our garage which dries the logs out. We do use our log burner a lot and get through about a tonne a month during winter, Maybe a bit less. 

A tonne of logs from our Gardener is £60 I'm sure there are more companies like this. 

No idea on costs of a log burner ours came with the house.


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## garage_dweller (Apr 10, 2018)

We got one installed a couple of years ago, cost £3k. That included removing the old gas supply, making good where the old fireplace was removed and fitting a slate hearth. The fire itself cost £2k. Best thing we’ve ever done in the house. 

We buy 1ton bags of hardwood for £90 from a local fuel supply company 


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

We had this one fitted in December. To remove the old gas fire, surround (inc disposal), install fire, hearth, flue, closure plate, and mantle. Was left plastered up so we just needed to paint and finish the mantle. Negotiated down to £3k.
We weren't sure how often we'd use it but we had it lit every evening until about April. We love it.
We've tried Oak and Ash logs. Ash is miles better; they're easier to start than oak, last almost as long, burn hotter, produce more flame and reduce down to, well, ash, whereas oak tends to leave some unburnt coals. Current cost of Ash is £380 for an extra large crate (equivalent to 3.5 builders bags). That should last a season easily.


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## PugIain (Jun 28, 2006)

My greenhouse is my log burner's companion. I chop stuff up in the winter then force dry it in the greenhouse during the hot weather, then put it in storage for the next winter.


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## AndyN01 (Feb 16, 2016)

My only knowledge of these is with a couple of friends.

Both have "Chesney" stoves and absolutely swear by them. Certainly when we've been round over the winter months they put out more than enough heat - in fact it can be too much .

Good luck with your project.

Andy.

Wood Burning & Multi-Fuel Stoves | Chesneys


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Think I’m pretty sure we will push the button with the guy who quoted. He seemed pretty genuine, is local and been going for years - refreshingly he wasn’t pushing for the most expensive or convoluted option. Just want to run a few queries past him re the flu as it seems not all flues are equal, especially if intending to burn anything other than wood. 

Found an interesting calculation for anybody thinking of looking into one:-

Length of room x width x height (works if you use feet or metres) x 0.0606 gives the kW needed to heat the room and they say go above so you have the extra capacity. At 5.2m x 4 x 3.2 we are coming out a tad over 4kW so a 5kW burner should be fine. I hope!


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 Its one of those never ending of spend hobbies like detailing I guess.


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## Podie (Mar 5, 2019)

MDC250 said:


> Think I’m pretty sure we will push the button with the guy who quoted. He seemed pretty genuine, is local and been going for years - refreshingly he wasn’t pushing for the most expensive or convoluted option. Just want to run a few queries past him re the flu as it seems not all flues are equal, especially if intending to burn anything other than wood.
> 
> Found an interesting calculation for anybody thinking of looking into one:-
> 
> Length of room x width x height (works if you use feet or metres) x 0.0606 gives the kW needed to heat the room and they say go above so you have the extra capacity. At 5.2m x 4 x 3.2 we are coming out a tad over 4kW so a 5kW burner should be fine. I hope!


I certainly don't regret the outlay. Most of the time in winter I just end up watching the flames - more interesting than most telly! 

Had a rake around through emails - we bought via Wood Burning Stoves | Buy Today | Free Delivery | Telephone Advice and used his link for a reputable installer.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

This is ours, not used it yet. 

How long does a ton of hardwood last? 

We have had loads of trees cut down so hopefully have a couple of years worth.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

RS3 said:


> ONCE PURCHASED YOU WILL NEED TO BUDGET FOR ONE OF THESE + ALL PPE:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This!

Don’t bother with petrol, the cordless saws are just as capable. I chopped in my MS181 for a dewalt cordless and it is better in every way.

The splitters are well worth it too, you can log all day with them unlike an axe.


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## Podie (Mar 5, 2019)

LeeH said:


> This is ours, not used it yet.
> 
> How long does a ton of hardwood last?


There's no way to say this without sounding like a **** - it depends how much you use it.

Typically we'd put it on around 3pm in winter and stop feeding it logs around 10pm (5KW burner). Leave the doors shut and it keeps the living space nice and toasty. Open the doors at bed time and the heat moves up - although our place is pretty well insulated.

We'd typically get October to March out of a ton - usually a mix of ash and birch, with a few (coal) ovoids for good measure once up to full temp.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

LeeH said:


> This is ours, not used it yet.
> 
> How long does a ton of hardwood last?
> 
> We have had loads of trees cut down so hopefully have a couple of years worth.


That looks like a fairly big burner. Is it possible to have burner envy? 

I don’t want the mess and hassle of knocking the surround out to that extent, so an inset is the way forwards for us.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

RS3 said:


> ONCE PURCHASED YOU WILL NEED TO BUDGET FOR ONE OF THESE + ALL PPE:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Already onto my 2nd chainsaw, killed the first, nothing fancy, Black & Decker from memory. I’m accident prone so less time with a chainsaw in hand the better, looking to be about £100 a ton bag locally so that will do me.


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## jimi_boom (Dec 28, 2010)

one thing to bear in mind is that the units that are tucked into the chimney have over half of the unit heating up the brick work so it wont throw out as much heat as a unit that is freestanding.

I installed a unit that also had a back boiler on it so that i could use that to heat a separate radiator in our bedroom, this wasn't an issue for me as i was ripping out the living room/bedroom above anyway. I also didn't bother with a liner as i had a chimney sweep come round and check the existing chimney and i just had to reset the pots on the top to seal everything.

If you do go down this route you also need to make sure that the back boiler can vent safely but plenty of info online. i vent mine underneath the false floor we have under the living room, it has never over pressurized yet but if it does i also have a cold feed under the floor so i can refill if needed.

i believe you can get complicated and use a back boiler system to feed into the central heating system but its complicated and a real pain in the **** as you have to somehow isolate the boiler because of the pump etc or so I'm told anyway

I would also recommend a multi burn stove as i tend to use coal and wood during winter, Wood through the day and coal at night so that you don't have to relight every morning

I get all my wood for free and have never purchased anything for the last three years so it is worth it for sure


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Podie said:


> There's no way to say this without sounding like a **** - it depends how much you use it.
> 
> Typically we'd put it on around 3pm in winter and stop feeding it logs around 10pm (5KW burner). Leave the doors shut and it keeps the living space nice and toasty. Open the doors at bed time and the heat moves up - although our place is pretty well insulated.
> 
> We'd typically get October to March out of a ton - usually a mix of ash and birch, with a few (coal) ovoids for good measure once up to full temp.


Stupid question, good answer. 

I was thinking along the lines of what I presume is normal. So, winter months come home from work and light it. Maybe early over the weekend. 

Cheers.


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## Podie (Mar 5, 2019)

LeeH said:


> Stupid question, good answer.
> 
> I was thinking along the lines of what I presume is normal. So, winter months come home from work and light it. Maybe early over the weekend.
> 
> Cheers.


We used to both have quite a commute, so we'd light the fire when we got in at night - tended to use Birch as it burns fast and easily so get things going quickly. We'd then push Ash on to keep it running longer, or at weekends when we had it on a lot of the day (I'd forgotton about weekend use!). Birch bark is a good firelighter too.

It's worth looking at different woods - beech goes well, but does pop and spark. Ash is good - plenty of head output, a nice looking flame and quite a slow burner too. Oak is lovely.

Elm is a sod. Holds onto water, so I avoid. Avoid pine due to resin. 

Worth buying in bulk if you can. Sign up to some places and you often get a 10% joining discount.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Well order has gone in, provisional fitting date of 11 August. Fingers crossed it all goes to plan. 

Need to build a bigger log store next and will order a few bulk bags and get them dropped off in the next few weeks. Looking at £98 for a mixed bag of kiln dried hardwood. Some places are as expected looking at price rises come September so will aim to be done before then! 

Watch this space as we will get an Indian Summer now and the mildest winter on record. You can thank me later


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## The Wall (7 mo ago)

MDC250 said:


> . Looking at £98 for a mixed bag of kiln dried hardwood.


Read the instructions for your fire as some do not recommend burning "kilndried logs" as they are quite fierce and give off lots of heat to fast, you would be better getting our dried with 20% moisture as recommend by the fire wood people.
Don't know where you live but if you have a store called Home Bargins they sell the best kindling.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

MDC250 said:


> Need to build a bigger log store next and will order a few bulk bags and get them dropped off in the next few weeks.


Just as an option, if you get your logs delivered in a large crate, you can basically make a log store out of the crate. Some plastic sheeting at the side and a tarp or more plastic sheeting on the top. (Leave the back open for air to get in.) The black bit at the top is damp proof coursing stapled on to the frame to give it support when you remove the logs.
The one on the left is oak, the one on the right is ash.
I do have another log store that I decant these into though.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

GeeWhizRS said:


> Just as an option, if you get your logs delivered in a large crate, you can basically make a log store out of the crate. Some plastic sheeting at the side and a tarp or more plastic sheeting on the top. (Leave the back open for air to get in.) The black bit at the top is damp proof coursing stapled on to the frame to give it support when you remove the logs.
> The one on the left is oak, the one on the right is ash.
> I do have another log store that I decant these into though.
> View attachment 80313


I like to make life difficult for myself, we have a full gravel driveway so I’ll be lucky if they put the builders bags on the drive 

It’s a great idea and certainly looks to do the job


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

MDC250 said:


> I like to make life difficult for myself, we have a full gravel driveway so I’ll be lucky if they put the builders bags on the drive
> 
> It’s a great idea and certainly looks to do the job


No worries. That's the log store I bought from some dude on Gumtree in case you need ideas. Galvanised top and back. 👍🏻 (Ignore the adblue 😂)


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## Ducky (Mar 19, 2007)

We put a burner in our house (Hwam) but we found out it burns through wood like it's going out of fashion!  I had a lot of trees around me I can use, but if I was buying my wood, then it would be a different matter, def have to be a bit cautious if you want to run it daily through the Winter.

On a plus note, they warm the room up so nicely, it's a different feeling to having a radiator do it.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Ducky said:


> We put a burner in our house (Hwam) but we found out it burns through wood like it's going out of fashion!  I had a lot of trees around me I can use, but if I was buying my wood, then it would be a different matter, def have to be a bit cautious if you want to run it daily through the Winter.
> 
> On a plus note, they warm the room up so nicely, it's a different feeling to having a radiator do it.
> 
> View attachment 80320


What type of wood are you burning out of interest?


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## Ducky (Mar 19, 2007)

MDC250 said:


> What type of wood are you burning out of interest?


Lol, anything I can get my hands on  Ash/Beech/Oak if I can get it.


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## Andy from Sandy (May 6, 2011)

I have "operated" a wood burner and the heat and ferocity of the fire is all down to how much air you let in. This particular one was for a woodworking shop so no glass. The burner in question has been red hot when folk opened the air vent fully when the fire was already going. When it comes to smoke we burnt anything and it did smoke until it was running hot. When not requiring a view of flames the air supply can be reduced and the wood will burn away in a radiant glow without much flames.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Ducky said:


> Lol, anything I can get my hands on  Ash/Beech/Oak if I can get it.


I’m hoping the wood I’ve got which is Ash and was seasoned when bought but has now had an extra 2 years on top will burn cleanly. Getting some mixed hardwood in bulk bags to stock up all supposedly around the 20% moisture mark. Again I’m hoping it will burn cleanly. The flue will be a 316 grade so any coal use will be minimal.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

MDC250 said:


> I’m hoping the wood I’ve got which is Ash and was seasoned when bought but has now had an extra 2 years on top will burn cleanly. Getting some mixed hardwood in bulk bags to stock up all supposedly around the 20% moisture mark. Again I’m hoping it will burn cleanly. The flue will be a 316 grade so any coal use will be minimal.


You won’t regret going for Ash. If you ever get the urge to try oak, I would recommend getting a small quantity at first. 👍


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Oak is a slow burner isn’t it and a bit of a pig to get going but gives good heat?


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

MDC250 said:


> Oak is a slow burner isn’t it and a bit of a pig to get going but gives good heat?


The heat output of oak is not even close to ash in my experience. I won’t be buying anymore oak when my current supply runs out. It’s not worth the hassle when ash is basically the same price.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Anybody got their burner lit?


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## Ducky (Mar 19, 2007)

LeeH said:


> Anybody got their burner lit?


My neighbour has....they need it for their hot water!


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Flue is fitted but there is an issue fitting the actual burner and modifications required of the back panel, tiler needed etc.

I’m literally bricking it as just looked at the fixed deals with my supplier OVO.

We get through circa 4,000kWh of electricity a year which when I consider everything bar central heating and water runs on electric so oven, hob, tumble dryer it is what it is. But it’s the gas, my figures put us at 26,000kWh. I can’t even say the house is warm as most of winter it really isn’t with overnight temperatures of 12-13 and day time temperatures when the heating is on of 18.

Adopting the fixed price deals at the moment and totting all of that up including standing charges the annual bill would be just over £10,000. It’s utter madness. I know a lot of people are in a sticky situation and it’s not just us but I just can’t get my head around it all.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Sounds like you have a large house, not much insulation or an inefficient boiler. Have you looked at zoning off rooms so you're only heating the rooms you are in?


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

GeeWhizRS said:


> Sounds like you have a large house, not much insulation or an inefficient boiler. Have you looked at zoning off rooms so you're only heating the rooms you are in?


3 bed Victorian semi. Brick construction with Tyrollean render. 

Vaillant EcoTec Plus 32 which is not quite 2.5 yrs old, serviced every year. 

Partial double glazing.

8 modern double double rads all with TRVs.

Back bedroom and dining room closed off. Doors closed to each room.

Lots of loft insulation. 

CH set to 18 degrees and is on a maximum of 8hrs in coldest part of winter. Overnight temps can drop to 12-13 degrees in winter.

Heats up fine (albeit seemingly uses a fair bit to get there) just doesn’t seem to retain the heat. Don’t think cavity wall insulation is great in these types of property, damp etc. Main ‘living’ rooms have double glazing and full length lined curtains.

No obvious leak certainly the meter will sit still when nothing is drawing on the gas. Literally only thing on the gas is CH and DW (no hot water tank). We have a ceramic hob, electric oven and run the tumble dryer a fair bit.

Could we literally use less CH in winter? Yup but it’s pretty uncomfortable as it is to be honest. Got to the point where just want to finish the house and sell it. That kind of bill is equivalent to a mortgage it makes no sense.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

MDC250 said:


> 3 bed Victorian semi. Brick construction with Tyrollean render.
> 
> Vaillant EcoTec Plus 32 which is not quite 2.5 yrs old, serviced every year.
> 
> ...


Have you considered your house is haunted? 😂
I know octopus energy used to let you borrow an infrared camera to see where you were losing heat. If that’s not an option with your supplier, it might pay to throw some money at getting someone to have a look at it for you. There must be someone specialising in that.


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## JordanE (Jun 26, 2013)

I’d say 2k is cheap.
I have been looking at a clearview stove which retails at £1500 alone. The fitting I have been quoted is £1500 too which is delivery of the stove, installation and all the flue stuff. In regards to wood, plenty of free wood on Facebook marketplace ha ha


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

JordanE said:


> I’d say 2k is cheap.
> I have been looking at a clearview stove which retails at £1500 alone. The fitting I have been quoted is £1500 too which is delivery of the stove, installation and all the flue stuff. In regards to wood, plenty of free wood on Facebook marketplace ha ha


Inset burners were cheaper option for us as a straight swap into what was an existing fireplace. Some knocking around but less time and hassle than a bigger rip out.

Just short of 11 metres of flue which is relatively inexpensive. The inset stove was around half the cost. The rest obviously for fitting and to be fair anybody who is happy going up on a ladder rather than scaffolding can happily have my money for that, no way I’d be happy doing it.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

GeeWhizRS said:


> Have you considered your house is haunted?
> I know octopus energy used to let you borrow an infrared camera to see where you were losing heat. If that’s not an option with your supplier, it might pay to throw some money at getting someone to have a look at it for you. There must be someone specialising in that.


No but we did consider the neighbour was tapping our supply  We queried if there was an issue with the meter but unsurprisingly the energy company thought it was fine and to be fair it was routinely swapped out in October 2020 and it has broadly stayed the same in terms of usage. What is surprising to me though is we had an old circa 20+ year old floor standing Baxi which was running an open vented system. After the hot tank developed a leak we swapped out to the combi so no more tank and I thought much better efficiency. Nope still the same.

I just don’t know how we could remotely begin to make big roads into usage. Full double glazing would help I guess but really would it make that much of a difference, I’d say we have approximately half double glazing now. 

Like I say my understanding is this type of property doesn’t play nicely with cavity wall insulation. Don’t know what the answer is so if anybody has any suggestions feel free to chip in. We are obviously hoping the log burner will make a difference and given how much prices have risen it wouldn’t take long to make the money back.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Average temp in the winter months is around 16-17 with the heating on and lower overnight  the spike is maybe a freak day of sunshine and the thermometer has got caught in window glare or similar.


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

MDC250 said:


> No but we did consider the neighbour was tapping our supply  We queries if there was an issue with the meter but unsurprisingly the energy company thought it was fine and to be fair it was routinely swapped out in October 2020 and it has broadly stayed the same in terms of usage. What is surprising to me though is we had an old circa 20+ year old floor standing Baxi which was running an open vented system. After the hot tank developed a leak we swapped out to the combi so no more tank and I thought much better efficiency. Nope stop the same.
> 
> I just don’t know how we could remotely begin to make big roads into usage. Full double glazing would help I guess but really would it make that much of a difference, I’d say we have approximately half double glazing now.
> 
> Like I say my understanding is this type of property doesn’t play nicely with cavity wall insulation. Don’t know what the answer is so if anybody has any suggestions feel free to chip in. We are obviously hoping the log burner will and a difference and how process have risen it wouldn’t take long to make the money back.


If cavity wall insulation is a no go then it's insulating internally. Insulated plasterboard on external walls or further, building stud walls with plenty of insulation and plasterboard over. Obviously that's major upheaval unless planning some work. If staying in the house long term I'd think about it on a room by room basis. So if you were thinking of redecorating the dining room then get that room done. Eventually the whole house will be done.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Darlofan said:


> If cavity wall insulation is a no go then it's insulating internally. Insulated plasterboard on external walls or further, building stud walls with plenty of insulation and plasterboard over. Obviously that's major upheaval unless planning some work. If staying in the house long term I'd think about it on a room by room basis. So if you were thinking of redecorating the dining room then get that room done. Eventually the whole house will be done.


Hit the nail on the head. Will be moving rather than face all of that


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

Cavity insulation is a difficult one, depends on the type of weather proofing the property has, the type of render, the orientation of the property and which way driving rain usually hits the property and how exposed the location is. Apart from internal damp, issues can arise with wall ties rotting leading to wall failure entirely in the worst case situations. Some properties are suitable, some are not and there are now different methods of cavity fill that supposedly alleviate some issues but none are perfect. A RICS surveyor would be able to tell if your property is suitable or not. Some that are on borderline suitability will need to make sure ground levels around the building are lower than internal floor height, guttering has to be spot on and roof has to be perfect to keep the property as water tight as possible.

Double glazing does make a difference. Any that have edge seals worn down or misting over are shot and won't be thermally efficient.

Internal insulation for older properties is the current go to method but that does involve what Darlofan mentioned. There is also insulation for ground flooring too for solid and suspended timber.

There is current ECO4 grant funding available to eligible properties and people aimed at improving the EPC of properties. 1 Billion every year for the next 4 years. So you could look into that as it's totally free.


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

Starbuck88 said:


> Cavity insulation is a difficult one, depends on the type of weather proofing the property has, the type of render, the orientation of the property and which way driving rain usually hits the property and how exposed the location is. Apart from internal damp, issues can arise with wall ties rotting leading to wall failure entirely in the worst case situations. Some properties are suitable, some are not and there are now different methods of cavity fill that supposedly alleviate some issues but none are perfect. A RICS surveyor would be able to tell if your property is suitable or not. Some that are on borderline suitability will need to make sure ground levels around the building are lower than internal floor height, guttering has to be spot on and roof has to be perfect to keep the property as water tight as possible.
> 
> Double glazing does make a difference. Any that have edge seals worn down or misting over are shot and won't be thermally efficient.
> 
> ...


Flooring I'd forgotten there. Older properties with floorboards are really easy to insulate if carpeted. Obviously more difficult if wooden flooring etc is down. Just a matter of lifting the floor, installing celotex insulation or similar between the joists and replacing the flooring.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Darlofan said:


> Flooring I'd forgotten there. Older properties with floorboards are really easy to insulate if carpeted. Obviously more difficult if wooden flooring etc is down. Just a matter of lifting the floor, installing celotex insulation or similar between the joists and replacing the flooring.


Genuinely curious as to whether it’s that simple. I’m really paranoid about the joists rotting without airflow. We have an almost full height cellar across the main footprint of the house (the outrigger doesn’t). The cellar is half above ground level with 3 it might be 4 air vents on the external walls. We have laminate throughout the ground floor. If I lift that, the floor boards and put Celotex down wouldn’t that hinder airflow around the floor joists? I’ve seen some people suggest a membrane which is secured over each floor joist and then suspend between each gap and insulation put over that. Keep coming back to airflow and it being impaired.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Had a delivery today.











Tidied out an outbuilding room.











4 hours later.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Are we all out gathering wood like Wombles? Scottish power have put my DD up a 100 pounds this month.


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## Alfie7777 (Jul 25, 2018)

Md I don't understand your logic about throwing more money at heating your property rather than addressing some of the causes 🤔 (windows ) 
If your car had a leaky fuel system would you just fit a bigger fuel tank


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Alfie7777 said:


> Md I don't understand your logic about throwing more money at heating your property rather than addressing some of the causes  (windows )
> If your car had a leaky fuel system would you just fit a bigger fuel tank


We already close off rooms and radiators in rooms we don’t use. The ones we do use are double glazed and have lined curtains etc. 

I think the biggest improvement I can make in the short term is probably re the flooring. We are about to do work on the kitchen and the laminate floor is coming up so that will be my test. It’s a slightly different set up in the kitchen which is in the outrigger, there is no cellar beneath the main part but confusingly there is on the end section (different levels). 

Internally insulated walls is probably another major improvement we could look into, but firstly will see what difference the log burner makes and secondly have to weigh up the cost and disruption of that versus moving. I think our time in the house is coming to an end for various reasons and this is just the straw that broke the camels back.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

LeeH said:


> Are we all out gathering wood like Wombles? Scottish power have put my DD up a 100 pounds this month.


OVO are no better and don’t seem to know what is going on. Every day the account balance changes (without me or they doing anything). Will see what happens after the next meter read. At one point I’ve noticed they weren’t charging for usage on the gas but were applying the standing charge. What’s bad there, apart for the obvious, was having submitted a read their system wouldn’t accept it so somebody senior in billing had physically looked at the account and not noticed. They literally have one job to do and can’t get it right.


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

Again, I would look into ECO4 Grant Funding. Your insulation, a different heating system, windows, solar panels could potentially all be funded.


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

MDC250 said:


> Genuinely curious as to whether it’s that simple. I’m really paranoid about the joists rotting without airflow. We have an almost full height cellar across the main footprint of the house (the outrigger doesn’t). The cellar is half above ground level with 3 it might be 4 air vents on the external walls. We have laminate throughout the ground floor. If I lift that, the floor boards and put Celotex down wouldn’t that hinder airflow around the floor joists? I’ve seen some people suggest a membrane which is secured over each floor joist and then suspend between each gap and insulation put over that. Keep coming back to airflow and it being impaired.


Yeah, definitely make sure air bricks are clear for ventilation. Then it's just battens part way down the joist, the celotex then cut to slide in and rest on the battens so it's flush with the top. Once done use aluminium tape along all the joins and put floorboards back down. All you're doing is stopping that ventilation underneath from coming up through the thin floorboards. It can still get to the joists to avoid damp etc.


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

MDC250 said:


> OVO are no better and don’t seem to know what is going on. Every day the account balance changes (without me or they doing anything). Will see what happens after the next meter read. At one point I’ve noticed they weren’t charging for usage on the gas but were applying the standing charge. What’s bad there, apart for the obvious, was having submitted a read their system wouldn’t accept it so somebody senior in billing had physically looked at the account and not noticed. They literally have one job to do and can’t get it right.


I'm with EON, read meter monthly, use a spreadsheet too🤣 Tried upping my DD 2mths ago to get really ahead in preparation for the October rise. Their system had a recommended cost too(just shy of £100 more than what I wanted it to) because mine was lower than their recommended one it wouldn't let me raise my DD. Ridiculous.


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## Kerr (Mar 27, 2012)

Add me to this thread. We've moved house and have a wood burning stove. We also had a few trees in the garden that were too big and too close to the house.

We'll need to chop it up and let it dry, but next year we have a big supply.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

You need to get them under cover ASAP.


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## Kerr (Mar 27, 2012)

LeeH said:


> You need to get them under cover ASAP.


We are getting a machine to chop them up and they will be stored in the old shed. The front has been removed to let air get through.


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## Taxboy (Aug 23, 2006)

Starbuck88 said:


> Cavity insulation is a difficult one, depends on the type of weather proofing the property has, the type of render, the orientation of the property and which way driving rain usually hits the property and how exposed the location is. Apart from internal damp, issues can arise with wall ties rotting leading to wall failure entirely in the worst case situations. Some properties are suitable, some are not and there are now different methods of cavity fill that supposedly alleviate some issues but none are perfect. A RICS surveyor would be able to tell if your property is suitable or not. Some that are on borderline suitability will need to make sure ground levels around the building are lower than internal floor height, guttering has to be spot on and roof has to be perfect to keep the property as water tight as possible.
> 
> Double glazing does make a difference. Any that have edge seals worn down or misting over are shot and won't be thermally efficient.
> 
> ...


I'd also check your double glazing. I'd been noticing a chill last year and discovered a couple of the windows weren't closing tight to the seal and leaving a gap around parts of the window. Got the hinges replaced at reasonable cost and all good now

Sent from my moto g(7) plus using Tapatalk


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

Kerr said:


> Add me to this thread. We've moved house and have a wood burning stove. We also had a few trees in the garden that were too big and too close to the house.
> 
> We'll need to chop it up and let it dry, but next year we have a big supply.
> 
> ...


Silver Birch..? you lucky bugger...had that on my burner for 2 years....brilliant stuff to burn...dry it dry it


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## AndyN01 (Feb 16, 2016)

MDC250 said:


> We already close off rooms and radiators in rooms we don’t use. The ones we do use are double glazed and have lined curtains etc.
> 
> I think the biggest improvement I can make in the short term is probably re the flooring. We are about to do work on the kitchen and the laminate floor is coming up so that will be my test. It’s a slightly different set up in the kitchen which is in the outrigger, there is no cellar beneath the main part but confusingly there is on the end section (different levels).
> 
> Internally insulated walls is probably another major improvement we could look into, but firstly will see what difference the log burner makes and secondly have to weigh up the cost and disruption of that versus moving. I think our time in the house is coming to an end for various reasons and this is just the straw that broke the camels back.


Hi, sorry I haven't been following this too closely.

We also live in an old house. It is centrally heated with rads and TRV's like yours. We were given a piece of advice which sounds ludicrous but works for us.

With old, uninsulated, walls most of the heat energy goes into warming up the fabric of the building before the rooms themselves. So, every time you turn the heating off, the walls cool down and the first thing that happens when you turn the heating back on again in the walls take all the heat first.

So, put the heating on to run 24/7. Set the boiler thermostat on low. Keep every room "warm" by using the TRV's because a cold room does exactly the same as the walls - draws the heat.

It takes our house 3 days to come up to temperature and then just sits like that for the next several months. Nothing is adjusted except for the first couple of weeks to get the temperature as you like it (it will be "cooler" according to the thermostat than expected).

Thick, heavy curtains are great and if possible tuck them behing the rads so the heat is not just going straight out of the windows .

This doesn't work for a modern, thermally efficient house because the fabric of the building doesn't draw the heat the same way that old walls/windows do.

Hope that helps.

Good Luck.


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## Kerr (Mar 27, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> Silver Birch..? you lucky bugger...had that on my burner for 2 years....brilliant stuff to burn...dry it dry it


It is mostly cherry tree wood. There is also a eucalyptus tree. There was a snake bark maple tree taken down, but I don't think that wood has been left behind. 

We were told the cherry tree wood dries out quicker than other woods. It'll burn well and smell nice.


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## Podie (Mar 5, 2019)

Kerr said:


> It is mostly cherry tree wood. There is also a eucalyptus tree. There was a snake bark maple tree taken down, but I don't think that wood has been left behind.
> 
> We were told the cherry tree wood dries out quicker than other woods. It'll burn well and smell nice.


That cherry and eucalyptus will need to be seasoned well though - could take a year or two in my experience - the latter is very sappy and wet. Eucalyptus is a sod to split though, so do it in rings not logs. No idea on maple


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## Kerr (Mar 27, 2012)

Podie said:


> That cherry and eucalyptus will need to be seasoned well though - could take a year or two in my experience - the latter is very sappy and wet. Eucalyptus is a sod to split though, so do it in rings not logs. No idea on maple


The tree surgeon and online advice suggests cherry is 6-12 months. We won't need it until next winter so it will have a full year minimum. It's a big pile and will last a few winters.


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

Kerr said:


> It is mostly cherry tree wood. There is also a eucalyptus tree. There was a snake bark maple tree taken down, but I don't think that wood has been left behind.
> 
> We were told the cherry tree wood dries out quicker than other woods. It'll burn well and smell nice.


Love cherry save it for Xmas time burn's good smells great....now for Eucalyptus....that will contain a lot of oil in sap I would deffo season for 2 years +....as it will bugger up your flue pipe... it burns heavier than pine..!!!...and it weights heavier than pine...be aware...burn well enjoy


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## Podie (Mar 5, 2019)

[email protected] said:


> Love cherry save it for Xmas time burn's good smells great....now for Eucalyptus....that will contain a lot of oil in sap I would deffo season for 2 years +....as it will bugger up your flue pipe... it burns heavier than pine..!!!...and it weights heavier than pine...be aware...burn well enjoy


I wouldn’t burn pine! Nasty stuff!

We’ve got some ash from one of our trees that was trimmed last year. It’s had 18 months - looking forward to burning that this winter, even if it does feel a bit… we’ll cannibalistic.

Mrs Podie bought some Ecoal stuff. 50% crushed olive stones, smokeless and burns low and slow. Interested to try that too.


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

Podie said:


> I wouldn’t burn pine! Nasty stuff!
> 
> We’ve got some ash from one of our trees that was trimmed last year. It’s had 18 months - looking forward to burning that this winter, even if it does feel a bit… we’ll cannibalistic.
> 
> Mrs Podie bought some Ecoal stuff. 50% crushed olive stones, smokeless and burns low and slow. Interested to try that too.


I did twice...never again ever again...fortunately I've have very large amount of ash locally )


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Was cynical the type of wood you use would make a huge difference but it so obviously does.

We have great draw on the burner, possibly a bit too much, but it makes for starting a fire very easy and it gets to temperature pretty quickly. By the time the kindling and small pieces are going can close off both the primary and secondary controls and anything that goes on afterwards takes quickly and flames well.

Can’t for the life of me remember what wood I bought a few years back now for the fire-pit as they swapped us over on the day of delivery but that burns hot and pretty slowly, it’s great. The size of logs as well are better suited for the burner as it’s not particularly large. The mixed hardwood we got recently burns well but a little too quickly for my liking. I may get a bag of oak as well or may chance a tipped load of Ash from a guy who advertises locally. Either way I’d rather spend my money on logs than to OVO who can royally kiss my you know what. Determined to keep the gas usage down.


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## Kerr (Mar 27, 2012)

Who would ever have known burning wood was so complicated?


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Mates just bought another stove for their mid floor - same model as he has downstairs, the new one was 2nd hand and cost him virtually same as the brand new one he bought for ground floor some years ago...

Keep thinking about one for us...


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Kerr said:


> Who would ever have known burning wood was so complicated?


It’s a true sign of middle age. That and living in some sort of Dystopian future where energy manufacturers get to maximise profit and the tax payer gets done over. Wait that’s awkward.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Lit ours for the fist time last night after a days logging out of curiosity. 

It’s hot…


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## Podie (Mar 5, 2019)

MDC250 said:


> Was cynical the type of wood you use would make a huge difference but it so obviously does.
> 
> We have great draw on the burner, possibly a bit too much, but it makes for starting a fire very easy and it gets to temperature pretty quickly. By the time the kindling and small pieces are going can close off both the primary and secondary controls and anything that goes on afterwards takes quickly and flames well.
> 
> Can’t for the life of me remember what wood I bought a few years back now for the fire-pit as they swapped us over on the day of delivery but that burns hot and pretty slowly, it’s great. The size of logs as well are better suited for the burner as it’s not particularly large. The mixed hardwood we got recently burns well but a little too quickly for my liking. I may get a bag of oak as well or may chance a tipped load of Ash from a guy who advertises locally. Either way I’d rather spend my money on logs than to OVO who can royally kiss my you know what. Determined to keep the gas usage down.


We have occasional days where there is something going on atmospherically where it's an absolute **** to light, but most of the time it's fine. 

The knack with ours is to burn some paper to get some heat in the flue to get it drawing properly.


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

Andyblue said:


> Mates just bought another stove for their mid floor - same model as he has downstairs, the new one was 2nd hand and cost him virtually same as the brand new one he bought for ground floor some years ago...
> 
> Keep thinking about one for us...


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

If you get one your never look back...had mine 19 years... we open the window when it gets to hot...but you will need room in garden for log shed....shame I can't post pics of stove + log shed...🙄


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Podie said:


> We have occasional days where there is something going on atmospherically where it's an absolute **** to light, but most of the time it's fine.
> 
> The knack with ours is to burn some paper to get some heat in the flue to get it drawing properly.


You could always light your fires the Scandinavian way. Logs on the bottom with kindling stacked on top. That gets the flue warm faster to start a draught. 
I’ve tried it out of curiosity but not really found the need to do it through any difficulty in starting.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Mines easy, very easy. Paper, sticks, logs with some fire lighters. 

Main air open, air wash open and woof! She’s alight. Close off the main air after a few mins.


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## garage_dweller (Apr 10, 2018)

I’m not keen on using paper to light the fire as it causes a lot of debris to fly about when you open the door. I use 2 chunky kindling sticks, a small log across the top of them and a waxling in between the two stick, both vents open


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

Coal in bottom of mine a firelighters on the coal. Then criss cross some kindling and a log on top. Used to use paper too but as above, it makes a mess. 
Type of wood, I really don't know. Using a tree in my brother in laws at the moment. He's too lazy to cut it despite having an open fire(and no money!). It's lay there not doing anything for years now(tree as well🤣) I pop over once a year with chainsaw and fill the trailer.


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

LeeH said:


> Mines easy, very easy. Paper, sticks, logs with some fire lighters.
> 
> Main air open, air wash open and woof! She’s alight. Close off the main air after a few mins.


Same.....it's on now...my chimney sweep in next weekend...easy money for him gone in 15 mins...£40.00...brilliant bloke saved me a few times + singed his van up so had 6 years of no charge....Sweep your chimneys guys DON"T FORGET...


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## Taxboy (Aug 23, 2006)

GeeWhizRS said:


> You could always light your fires the Scandinavian way. Logs on the bottom with kindling stacked on top. That gets the flue warm faster to start a draught.
> I’ve tried it out of curiosity but not really found the need to do it through any difficulty in starting.


Ive switched to the Scandi method as well. Seems to light much better especially on calm evenings when there may not be much draw. I believe there is a scientific explanation why this method works well 

Sent from my moto g(7) plus using Tapatalk


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Taxboy said:


> Ive switched to the Scandi method as well. Seems to light much better especially on calm evenings when there may not be much draw. I believe there is a scientific explanation why this method works well.


Wood burns from the top down (unlike coal) so having the kindling on top is fine. Just means the initial heat generated by your kindling is used to quickly heat the flue and generate the draw rather than to lose some of the heat into the logs on top. It'd be useful if your chimney is sheltered from the wind by trees and other buildings. For us though, I find one fire-lighter with kindling alternately stacked around it and a couple of small logs on top works to start ours reliably. Whatever works. 👍


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Who’s using a fan? Ordered one last night on prime to try.


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

LeeH said:


> Who’s using a fan? Ordered one last night on prime to try.


We have one. Got it about 3yrs ago from Aldi. It's great. Only thing I was worried about was noise but it's silent when going. Our log burner is in a smallish room so door is left open and fan circulates the air out into the hall.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Got a fan, cannot feel much air movement but I’ll give it 30 days to make my mind up. 

Glass Cleaner. 
What glass cleaner are we using? At body tried Tardis, APC, degreaser? I have Megs APC, Megs degreaser which may work. Or you can get dedicated cleaner from HG which seems to be a trusted domestic and commercial brand. 

To be fair the air wash system is keeping the glass clean, I though it would be black after the first fire but it’s brilliant surprisingly. 

HG Stove Glass Cleaner, Dissolves Soot, Grease & Tar, Maintains Oven Doors, Glass Fireplaces & Hearths – 500ml Spray (431050106) Amazon.co.uk


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

LeeH said:


> Got a fan, cannot feel much air movement but I’ll give it 30 days to make my mind up.
> 
> Glass Cleaner.
> What glass cleaner are we using? At body tried Tardis, APC, degreaser? I have Megs APC, Megs degreaser which may work. Or you can get dedicated cleaner from HG which seems to be a trusted domestic and commercial brand.
> ...


Glass stays pretty clean on mine too but have seen posts about people using newspaper to wipe and ash from the pan mixed with a little water to make a paste.


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

LeeH said:


> Got a fan, cannot feel much air movement but I’ll give it 30 days to make my mind up.
> 
> Glass Cleaner.
> What glass cleaner are we using? At body tried Tardis, APC, degreaser? I have Megs APC, Megs degreaser which may work. Or you can get dedicated cleaner from HG which seems to be a trusted domestic and commercial brand.
> ...


I used to use glass cleaner(cheap one from Aldi) or damp newspaper and Ash. Then read about leaving the top vent open to keep glass clean. Works a treat, I only clean it now after it's last use in spring.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Yes the top vent (air wash on mine) keeps the glass clean but I’m only 10 fires deep so suspect it will need a little love at some point.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Similar to above, a dampened piece of kitchen roll dabbed into ash will shift any soot on the glass easily. Then use a dry piece of kitchen roll to clean off. 👍


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## ridders66 (May 24, 2019)

We fitted a couple of multi fuel stoves years ago when we were restoring our house. What we found was that whilst the stoves get bloody hot and chuck some heat out, there are issues.
If you use the stove to save putting the heating on, remember it’ll get cold upstairs.
Unless you have a green stove which burns the smoke again so it can be used in a smokeless zone, you won’t be able to burn wood.
If you do burn wood, you need to be aware that you’ll need to buy a hell of a lot of wood, you need to store it in a dry place with fresh air circulating, and you’ll be sat next to the stove putting wood in constantly.
If you go down the smokeless fuel route, smokeless fuel was expensive when we last bought it three years ago, we were spending over £100 a time on it. Smokeless fuel is also coated in an acid to help it burn. The coating sticks to your flue liner and corrodes it to the point that it crumbles away, so you need to factor in replacing the flue liner every few years.
And, most smokeless fuel comes from Russia.
Finally, if you’re house proud or have a partner who is, stoves create a lot of fine dust. If you burn smokeless fuel you’ll get a very fine black dust coating the furniture, not good on pale sofas. It’s unavoidable as you open the door to refuel.
We stopped using the main one three years ago as we found it was more efficient to leave the heating on low so the whole house was comfortable, rather than it being freezing cold upstairs and mad hot downstairs.
We use the one in the dining room occasionally as it’s a cold room, but only fire it up 2-3 times a year.
The idea of them is lovely but in reality, unless you live in an old cottage in the country, central heating beats them by a country mile.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Not sure what's going on with your fires Ridders but that's not the experience I have. When ours is on, we add more wood every 90 mins or so, so that's not exactly 'constantly'. I suppose this would depend on what wood you are burning though.
We certainly don't notice any fine dust settling, and we have a light grey/brown leather settee where that would clearly be visible. We use ours daily in the cooler months (Oct-Apr).


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

I'll chuck a log on ours every hour or so. Definitely not up and down every 10minutes. Had ours in 3 winters now I think and definitely no dust etc from ours. And wife or me would be all over it if there was dust. I was worried about emulsioned walls starting to go darker with soot but none of that either(walls are cream).


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Ours seems efficient on wood even at this size. 20kW I think. No dust apart from debris on the hearth when you open the door. 

It’s not multi fuel fuel though as we have a few years worth of poles/logs to go through. We have had wood (poles and large discs) stored outside your 4 years only to bring it this year. It’s perfectly fine with only the 1 side of the top of the pile looking iffy. The rest are bone dry but will need a season to be fully dry again.

A few dead trees will be staying up in the air until space allows.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

20kW, sure you don’t have a blast furness?!?

I was told length x width x height (in m or feet) and x by 0.0606 to get what kW rating you need. I rounded up to 5. To be fair it only keeps that room toasty but anything more powerful than that I think it would be too much for the room.

Like the others I’ve not noticed dust but only had it in a relatively short period of time. What does surprise me is the small amount of ash in the pan as compared to what gets put on in terms of logs.

Overall I’m glad we got it and wouldn’t be without it now.


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

Yes I’m talking rubbish, it’s 8kW. My old boiler was 20. Age is creeping up on me.

We are very much open plan so a large one was needed. 









Studio 2 Freestanding Wood Burning Stove - Stovax Stoves


This Freestanding stove version of the Stovax Studio 2 wood burning inset fire offers you up to 8kW of heating capacity as well as superb views of the




www.stovax.com


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## Kerr (Mar 27, 2012)

I got the machine to chop up the wood today. The first 30-60mins it was one of those jobs that felt satisfying. The next 4 hours dragged on a bit. 

I've now got a shed full of wood drying for next year. The shed has been modified to let air through.


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## garage_dweller (Apr 10, 2018)

As others have said I’m not stoking the fire with wood constantly, the house isn’t cover3d in dust and it warms the rest of the house reasonably enough. It’s certainly not warm upstairs with the heating off but it doesn’t need to be. 

We probably use 2 logs a night on a week night, more at the weekend but we’re not often at home at the weekend.

we use a maximum of 2 tonne bags a year and store a full tonne bag on the doorstep. Not sure on the price this year but that was just under £200 for winter 21/22


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## LeeH (Jan 29, 2006)

The fan doesn’t seem to do much. It’s spinning away but I don’t feel any air or heat movement.


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

LeeH said:


> The fan doesn’t seem to do much. It’s spinning away but I don’t feel any air or heat movement.


If it's spinning then it's moving air around. You're not going to be sat there with your hair fluttering in the breeze though. 😂


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