# "bad" machining pictures



## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Right then, thought of this earlier, but didn't post (but I am now)

Was thinking, people (especially my neighbour) say that machine polishing can proper "f**k" up ya paint if done wrong

Anyone gonna admit to this and post pics?

Just curious as to what damage can be done


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## andyboygsi (Aug 30, 2007)

lots lol

one time dave kg assaulted someone with a wool pad, thats how dangerous it gets. the pad turned into a 2500 rpm flying head chopper off'er


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## dotnetdave (Aug 31, 2007)

dont have any picture but look in the davekg's machine detailing guides for pictures and explanations. some the things you can cause would be

Marring
Hologramming
Strike Through
Burn Through


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

andyboygsi said:


> lots lol
> 
> one time dave kg assaulted someone with a wool pad, thats how dangerous it gets. the pad turned into a 2500 rpm flying head chopper off'er


:lol::lol::lol: I remember that!!


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## EvilChap (Oct 21, 2008)

This'll make you wince!

This is a mate's GTO










I am hoping to get my hands on a Makita polisher soon, so I can sort this out, all being well...

It's currently looking like this:


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## Stew (Jul 9, 2007)

I've heard of some on here by a well known member.....

The threads were deleted long before I wanted to see them though!


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## willd0g (Sep 14, 2008)




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## kogenx (May 22, 2008)

What happened there willdog?


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## willd0g (Sep 14, 2008)

kogenx said:


> What happened there willdog?


Hey sorry about not posting some sort of explanation as to what happened.

I was machine polishing using the rotary, 3M rubbing compound, and Farecla compounding pad to remove wetsanding. I successfully removed the deep scratch that was orginally there.

I was using a 6" pad and being rather new to rotary polishing i found it difficult to follow the contours of the bumper below









Whilst i was trying to follow the contours of the panel, I left the edge of my pad spinning against the panel for a fraction too long.









As a result, It didn't quite burn thru, but SHIFTED the paint!....









I should invest in some 3-4" spot pads and suitable backing plate! lesson learned. :buffer:


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## Islander78 (Sep 30, 2007)

Sorry but I think your main error there was thinking that a plastic bumper is the same as a normal paint panel. IMO that´s the main lesson: plastic bumpers are WAAAAY more fragile than normal panels.


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## willd0g (Sep 14, 2008)

Islander78 said:


> Sorry but I think your main error there was thinking that a plastic bumper is the same as a normal paint panel. IMO that´s the main lesson: plastic bumpers are WAAAAY more fragile than normal panels.


Cheers bud


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

EvilChap said:


> This'll make you wince!
> 
> This is a mate's GTO
> 
> ...


 hell!! :doublesho :doublesho (I think I've seen this before but it still made physically rock back from the screen when I saw that!!)


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

willd0g said:


> Hey sorry about not posting some sort of explanation as to what happened.
> 
> I was machine polishing using the rotary, 3M rubbing compound, and Farecla compounding pad to remove wetsanding. I successfully removed the deep scratch that was orginally there.
> 
> ...


I'd say you were pretty lucky to have only caused that amount of damage!


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## budd (Jul 4, 2007)

Islander78 said:


> Sorry but I think your main error there was thinking that a plastic bumper is the same as a normal paint panel. IMO that´s the main lesson: plastic bumpers are WAAAAY more fragile than normal panels.


Does the same apply to GRP bodied cars? as I need to give my TVR th once over before I put it up for sale.


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## Saqib200 (May 13, 2008)

budd said:


> Does the same apply to GRP bodied cars? as I need to give my TVR th once over before I put it up for sale.


When I did my Lotus Elise (same sort of panels) it wasn't too bad with a rotary. Don't apply too much pressure, and don't work one area for too long (keep temperature down).


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## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

budd said:


> Does the same apply to GRP bodied cars? as I need to give my TVR th once over before I put it up for sale.


Grp doesnt hear up as fast as plastic, so your a bit better off.


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## MickCTR (Mar 4, 2006)

I managed to leave some buffer trails on my roof on the Golf after the first go with a rotary. Soon corrected by the PC but I was gutted at the time. Really narked with myself althought the 3m Fast Cut plus might have played its part, that is harsh stuff!


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## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

This is why you have to be so carefully why useing a pc/mop anything. Burning thru is very easy.


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## ipodsandguns (Jul 31, 2008)

not the type of thread i want to pop up day before i order my first machine haha


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## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

ipodsandguns said:


> not the type of thread i want to pop up day before i order my first machine haha


Pratice on old pannels first, dont just jump on the car. Thats the first mistake most people make.
Start slow with lots of water.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

i assume you mean water on the pad?

is this for keeping temp down or letting polish spread more?


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## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

Both, keeps the heat down and helps work movement and work the polish/compound in.


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

Benn said:


> Pratice on old pannels first, dont just jump on the car. Thats the first mistake most people make.
> Start slow with lots of water.


Depends on the polishes. Some shouldnt be used with water or they wont work properly


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Clark said:


> Depends on the polishes. Some shouldnt be used with water or they wont work properly


Exactly, with many polishes on the market now it is best to avoid water or quick detailer as this will affect the lubricants used in the polishes - waxed based lubes in Menz polishes for example.

Using plenty of water is more for dry older style compounds like certain versions of G3 and products like Menzerna Power Gloss though with the latter I would suggest less water and regularly rather than lots of water.

In fact, with all polish including G3, I would avoid a soaking polishing head as this can cause splatter and splatter in turn leads to hologramming by picking up unbroken down abrasives later in the set... water is only required by some polishes to lengthen the work time to break them down so use smaller amount and apply regualrly to avoid splatter and keep everything clean


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## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

Havent seen many that say dont use water or lube, but thats from working at a bodyshop and using g6 and such to polish up flatted paint.

I still use a light mist of detailler when polishing, but i mean a very light mist.


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

Most of the modern day polishes (Cerami Menz, 3M, Meguiars) require no water or QD after the initial priming of the pad. The likes of the older US style Menzerna can work with water if you need to extend the working time. Once I prime the pad for the first set i never once have to spritz the pad with anything, just spurr it to keep it clean


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## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

Ah thats not bad, i still use stuff i did from working in the bodyshop so.
Then again looking at my new 3m ultafina polish it doesnt say anything about lube so..


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## PootleFlump (Jan 1, 2006)

Benn said:


> Pratice on old pannels first, dont just jump on the car. Thats the first mistake most people make.
> Start slow with lots of water.


Try starting with a softer pad than you would expect to use first. Less likely to cause damage.


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