# Subframe refurb/paint opinion/advice?



## DC240S

Hi all,

I currently have the front subframe off the car for refurbishment.
Corrosion is light - but I'm trying to decide between a couple of options to treat and repaint;

1.
Blast the entire subframe, prime with BH Electrox then topcoat.

2.
Remove the corrosion by grinding/sanding those areas only, treating with BH Deox Gel, coating only the treated corrosion with BH Electrox, keying the whole subframe and then top coating.

Heres some pics of what I'm dealing with.

Seems excessive to blast the whole thing - its wether the original finish will be OK keyed and topcoat? - its been there 13 years already though so surely would be a good base.


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## Ben_W

Id honestly be tempted to have the whole thing blasted.....it won't be that expensive and if bits around the edge are failing, it might just be worth doing it anyway.

If nothing else, it give a level base to work on.

On a separate note, do these benefit from being seam welded? The 306/Xsara ones seem to, with a lot of people reporting extra rigidity from doing so. Welded sections 2-3 cm long all around the edge.


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## oneflewover

That looks a very difficult piece to blast, whatever the medium. If I was in it as far as you I'd go for chemical strip, dipping and coating.

Know idea where it is done, just seen it on the telly.

Edit to add, it actually already looks galvanised.


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## DC240S

I applied BH Deox Gel to the surfaces around the bushes and its done a decent job removing corrosion/cleaning the metal.

I've ground, sanded and wire wheeled the complete subframe and applied Deox Gel. 
Potentially with final sanding and keying Electrox followed by a top coat could be an option.


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## DC240S

Been quoted £110 to blast and powder coat!!


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## oneflewover

DC240S said:


> Been quoted £110 to blast and powder coat!!


Sounds a good price, around here in W Yorks, you'd pay that for a set of wheels, looks to be more work in that subframe.


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## DC240S

Thought it would be half that! Oh well


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## Ben_W

DC240S said:


> Thought it would be half that! Oh well


As did I!! £100 sounds expensive.....I can't understand why it's so much. Granted, it's not the smallest thing to do but it still sounds expensive....


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## AndyN01

My twopenneth.

How much time and how many £££'s have you you spent getting it as far as it is now?

How much more time and £££'s do you think it might take to have it ready for refitting?

Compare the £££'s to the cost of blasting and power coating and realistically think about what else you might be doing with the time - assuming you have lots of "other stuff" to be getting on with. .

Yes, it's great to DIY because you know what's been done, what products have been used etc. but how much "better" might that be than (or maybe even worse????) than having it done "professionally" and perhaps just finishing off with some Dynax after fitting?

Hope that helps.

Andy.

PS Can across this site for chemical strippers - Used some and it's really good stuff.

https://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/


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## grunty-motor

at the start, i would say powder coat it as its a more robust coating......but you are quite a way in and if you have the time, just soldier on.


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## DC240S

Cheers for the comments.

The difficulty with powder coating is unless you know one you can trust/or is recommended to you - its still a lottery on the quality/durability. I previously spent a significant amount having the subframe and many other parts blasted and powder coated on another project and the finish failed and rusted.

In respect to leaving it to the professionals - I had my rear callipers repainted by a company hyped to be "the best" and rather than a max 11 days turnaround it took almost 5 weeks, two attempts (VERY poor quality and QC), numerous ignored calls/emails and two 120 mile round trip visits by me to sort - and its still not resolved and the finish not significantly better than I could have done myself.

I've not put excessive time or money in to the subframe refurb - materials approx. £50 - likely less.

Based on the results of treating with BH Deox Gel - I'm continuing with the DIY and will assess how the finish is bearing up when I come to do the rear - if I'm not happy I'll do the front again.


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## DC240S

It seems painting myself isn't a popular option.

Not sure if I should continue and top coat or get it blasted/coated.

I thought I'd done a decent job to this point?....

After the BH Deox Gel, flatted and keyed with 320 grit:





































After 2 coats of BH Electro - appreciate I won't get the full benefit of Electrox over the existing paint - but those areas were fairly blemish free after 13 years. I will apply some BH Dynax UB/UC for further protection:


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## Mac-

Painting yourself will be fine, choose the correct paint and take your time and all will be well. I did the suspension components on my transit in smooth hammerite on top of zinc primer.


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## DC240S

Previous components I've top coated mostly over BH Electrox.

Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black:





































POR15 Top Coat (Chassis) over Electrox:


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## Mac-

They look brilliant


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## DC240S

Today I applied x2 mist coats of black primer (2 hrs between) on the subframe - it's starting to look promising!


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## dhali

That's come out great . Regarding the POR15 , can you use it from a paint gun ?


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## grunty-motor

looking good!


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## DC240S

dhali said:


> That's come out great . Regarding the POR15 , can you use it from a paint gun ?


Cheers!

I understand you can though all of my painting is via aerosol.


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## DC240S

So I've top coated the subframe with 1 mist coat and 2 wet coats 15 min. apart.

Fairly pleased with the results (considering its rattle cans) - when its dry in 24+ hours I'll see if I want to key it and add further coats though not sure if thats necessary.

Its not perfect but neither was the original finish.


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## DC240S

A little update.

In the end I took a brave pill and decided to wet sand/key the whole subframe for further coats. Despite being 'just' the subframe I wanted the best/most durable finish I could achieve.

I threw on 2x light and 1x wet coats (15min apart) of the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black - after a couple of days drying/curing the finish is spot on and looks very close to original. Its proved to be very hard/durable - taking whacks with a hammer to install the fastenings for the under tray.
I feel ver confident that its a finish equal to if not better than powder coat and I will be using the same formula for the rear subframe.

I've comprehensively coated the inside with BH Dynax UB and will seal the exterior and perhaps apply strategic BH Dynax UC in places too.

Heres some pics of the outcome along with a gathering of refurbished/new parts ready to refit.


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## grunty-motor

looks fantastic! great job.


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## Mac-

They look better than new, when can I send mine?


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## Citromark

That's a fantastic job :thumb: .

Mark


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## Derek-Eddleston

oneflewover said:


> Sounds a good price, around here in W Yorks, you'd pay that for a set of wheels, looks to be more work in that subframe.


Just picked up the rear beam axle for my 2002 VW Golf Mk4 after it had been blasted/zinc-coated/powder-coated red.................. £50.....mates rates..............almost too good to hide under the car. For extra protection of the hollow sections, I'm going to spray some waxoyl in there through existing holes which I will then close off with rubber blanking plugs. It will be an honour to be run over by this car when it finally goes back on the road.

Derek.


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## AndyN01

WOW,

Fantastic finish. :thumb:

it does seem a shame to hide it under the car .

Andy.

PS I've not come across Eastwood paints. American? UK supplier? TIA


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## DC240S

AndyN01 said:


> WOW,
> 
> Fantastic finish. :thumb:
> 
> it does seem a shame to hide it under the car .
> 
> Andy.
> 
> PS I've not come across Eastwood paints. American? UK supplier? TIA


Cheers Andy.

Eastwood is an American brand and is available from frost.co.uk

https://www.frost.co.uk/brands/eastwood.html


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## SimonO

Fantastic job! 

Please can I ask if this is high gloss or satin?


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## DC240S

SimonO said:


> Fantastic job!
> 
> Please can I ask if this is high gloss or satin?


:thumb:

Its Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black SATIN


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## SimonO

DC240S said:


> :thumb:
> 
> Its Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black SATIN


Many thanks.. Looks fantastic!


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## detailR

Is it from a MK4 Golf?

If so, you can buy a new one for around £90 if you shop about.
(I know this because my old Bora was so low, subframes were a service item :lol: )

Cheapest way of getting the lasting finish you're looking for.


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## DC240S

detailR said:


> Is it from a MK4 Golf?
> 
> If so, you can buy a new one for around £90 if you shop about.
> (I know this because my old Bora was so low, subframes were a service item :lol: )
> 
> Cheapest way of getting the lasting finish you're looking for.


Please share where you can purchase them for £90!?

MRP is approx. £600

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-subframe/8n0199313e/


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## detailR

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201614241950

Granted, it's a pattern part - but they work.
We fit one to a friends car about 5 years ago and it's still fine.


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## Derek-Eddleston

DC240S said:


> Please share where you can purchase them for £90!?
> 
> MRP is approx. £600
> 
> https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-subframe/8n0199313e/


I buy genuine VAG and Mercedes parts from Poland, Latvia and Lithuania with no problems at all. I saved around £250 when buying a Mercedes SL front grill, and saved a small fortune on the parts when I rebuilt the brakes and suspension on a Mk 4 Golf. My rear subframe and front wishbones were all blasted and powder coated by Southampton company owned by Polish for less than £100 with a pretty good turnaround time. People seem to distrust Eastern Europeans instinctively but are happy to pay much higher prices when the English seller supplies exactly the same item.

Derek.


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## KrystenCTR

DC240S said:


> Thought it would be half that! Oh well


Get more quotes. I know this is an old post, so probably has been sorted already.

I got quotes for some alloys wheels to be refurbished, starting up at £320 for four 17" rims. I eventually paid £160, which included checking the wheels were true and straight, plus finishing them off in a superb metallic black.

Definitely worth getting as much strip down work done as possible and factor in your own time as it is valuable as well.


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## Rakti

DC240S said:


> A little update.
> 
> In the end I took a brave pill and decided to wet sand/key the whole subframe for further coats. Despite being 'just' the subframe I wanted the best/most durable finish I could achieve.
> 
> I threw on 2x light and 1x wet coats (15min apart) of the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black - after a couple of days drying/curing the finish is spot on and looks very close to original. Its proved to be very hard/durable - taking whacks with a hammer to install the fastenings for the under tray.
> I feel ver confident that its a finish equal to if not better than powder coat and I will be using the same formula for the rear subframe.
> 
> I've comprehensively coated the inside with BH Dynax UB and will seal the exterior and perhaps apply strategic BH Dynax UC in places too.


Just read this thread.

That's great work DC. I'd be proud if I could achieve that level of finish.


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