# Post two pack respray - Best way to rub down and polish to a better finish?



## Jack155Q4

Hi all,

I have resprayed my Alfa 155 in two pack - first paint job I have done so the results are not perfect but I think acceptable. There is a lot of paint on the car - managed to get through 3L! There was a bit of trial and error though and in most places there will be about 3 coats.

I need to flat it all back and my plan is to go with 1200, 1500 and finish with 2000 W&D.

After, this is where I am not sure what to use. I have Faraclay G3 and G10. From memory I think G3 is the paste compound to use first and then the G10 being the finer liquid to finish the job with, then polish then carnuba wax.

Are these the best products to use post respray or should I get another type.

I have a machine polisher - big heavy thing but I think it is OK to do the job.
What would a good set of polishing heads be - I see there are a few different types/colours for different applications.

Is it essential to keep the mop/poishing head wet to avoid burning though the paint? I heard this may be a bit old school with modern compounds.

Many thanks,
Jack


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## stangalang

Personally I would be looking at meguires 105 and 205. Nothing like the farecla stuff you have. IMO that stuff is junk. It has it's place still, occasionally but it is so old fashioned things have moved on so much. Check out the 2 polishes mentioned, 105 is the "compound" but in no way the traditional type, super micro abrasives mean you get all the cut but an almost uncomparable finish. It can finish close to perfect requiring only a light set with 205. You tube them there are tons of videos out there :thumb:


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## Teajay

Over the past year I have sprayed my 1968 Lotus Elan +2 with 2 pack acrylic and I am currently using my Megs DA to get a perfect finish.

I'm afraid there are no quick answers; I spent some weeks reading up info on the forum, which was very useful as I am also a newbie at detailing.
Then like you I posted some questions on this great forum and got some very useful advice, including responses from stangaland who has also responded to you.

I feel that for you it would be useful to read Dave KG guide, here:-
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859

There are many other useful guides on this forum. Also do a search on YouTube, there are some great videos showing how to polish.

Here's the links to my topics which you may find useful.
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=232114
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=232834

After reading these if you need any further info, then I will do my best to answer.


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## moosh

So by 2 pack you mean solvent based solid colour?

I pressume it will be rosso red?

my advice is dont go any lower than 1500 on it, use a block where possible when sanding and have soap in the water and use warm water it aids on cutting. when sanding go diagonally across the panel and let the paper do the cutting and use very little pressure.

Polishing wise for that heavy cut i would say farecla G3 would be the boy to use but i would use the farecla dedicate head that goes with it.

You will how ever need to refine it after wards and i would go with megs 205 or 3m ultra fina with the megs yellow pad or the 3m blue pad.

I would also advise that you do a panel at a time but flatten the entire panel first.

It will be a long and time consuming job but worth it if you have painted it yourself and i pressume your not a painter?


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## waxy

I wouldn't personally recommend polishing out your sanding scratches with G3.You should be aiming to finish your sanding with as fine a grade paper as you can,it's easier to polish out fine sanding scratches,and with less material removal.


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## moosh

waxy said:


> I wouldn't personally recommend polishing out your sanding scratches with G3.You should be aiming to finish your sanding with as fine a grade paper as you can,it's easier to polish out fine sanding scratches,and with less material removal.


Yes if he starts off with G3 (as he has that) and finishes with 205 or similar it will be fine and saves him going out and buying more polishes to do one job.


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## zimtimtim

G3 will be fine. I use it after spraying and removing 1500 - 2000k sanding marks. and then refine from there.


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## justina3

whilst g3 might be old hat i wouldnt consider it as junk


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## Teajay

Moosh has raised a good point re the 2 pack.

In my case the paint has a hardener + thinners added. It’s the nasty stuff which you wear a full face air mask.
This may be very different paint than Jack155Q4, if his only has the thinners added.

If it is different, than my finally selected pads/compounds could be different.

Also I allowed at least 4 weeks after spraying, before I worked the panel.

I ended up with an occasional use of 1200 but mostly 2500 then 3000 or 4000 wet & dry mainly on blocks using warm water with fairy liquid added (the washing up type). As said above, allow the wet & dry to soak well before use & use light strockes keeping it well watered. Clean frequently in the bucket.
Then Megs DA on speed 4/5 with Yellow or Orange Hexlogic Pads used with Menzerna Fast Gloss (S500), working an area 12" x 12".
This was followed with the DA on speed 4/5 with White Hexlogic Pads used with Megs #205.
The residue was wiped off immediately with a large thick microfiber towel.

The result was stunning. Thanks to suggestions on this forum.
My aim was to achieve the best result possible on a GRP car.

I must add that the paint supplier did suggest G3, he said their workshop used it.


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## Hynde

I just put couple of words to another thread about removing orange peel.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=233375&page=2

You should sand up to P4000 because the polishing process is much easier afterwards. You don't need so heavy compounds. Another thing is the curing time of the paint. I will not do the serious finishing process immediately after spraying. Paint or lacquer finish is very soft for some of time. It will get some minor scratches and it will shrink during curing. So quite a useless in my opinion... Let it get hard enough and make your stunning finish afterwards...

- Henri -


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## stangalang

Hynde said:


> I just put couple of words to another thread about removing orange peel.
> 
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=233375&page=2
> 
> You should sand up to P4000 because the polishing process is much easier afterwards. You don't need so heavy compounds. Another thing is the curing time of the paint. I will not do the serious finishing process immediately after spraying. Paint or lacquer finish is very soft for some of time. It will get some minor scratches and it will shrink during curing. So quite a useless in my opinion... Let it get hard enough and make your stunning finish afterwards...
> 
> - Henri -


I absolutely agree with this. 4000 grit is so fine it has a slight gloss to it. Done right it can be removed with 205 on a finishing pad. And definatly get the polishing done whilst soft and leave the finishing for 6 weeks or so after


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## waxy

moosh said:


> Yes if he starts off with G3 (as he has that) and finishes with 205 or similar it will be fine and saves him going out and buying more polishes to do one job.


IMO, it's not wise to use a ''rocks in a bottle'' compound to remove sanding scratches,especially on fresh paint.As said,the polishing process will be easier if you finish your sanding with the finest grade possible.Unless a lot of paint has really been applied,you want to leave as much material after sanding and polishing as possible.


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## moosh

waxy said:


> IMO, it's not wise to use a ''rocks in a bottle'' compound to remove sanding scratches,especially on fresh paint.As said,the polishing process will be easier if you finish your sanding with the finest grade possible.Unless a lot of paint has really been applied,you want to leave as much material after sanding and polishing as possible.


I get what you are saying but i have been a painter for 15 years mate and G3 is what we use in the bodyshops (along with others) so my advice was if you have it use it as the OP obv likes to save the cash hence painting his car in a shed and not a bodyshop.

Cutting paint is better done when it is fresh contrary to popular belief.

I agree with working up the grades of papers and then finishing with 205 but again what if the chap doesnt have all these grades of paper. :thumb:


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## waxy

moosh said:


> I get what you are saying but i have been a painter for 15 years mate and G3 is what we use in the bodyshops (along with others) so my advice was if you have it use it as the OP obv likes to save the cash hence painting his car in a shed and not a bodyshop.
> 
> Cutting paint is better done when it is fresh contrary to popular belief.
> 
> I agree with working up the grades of papers and then finishing with 205 but again what if the chap doesnt have all these grades of paper. :thumb:


I agree with you,to a point.Painter's generally speaking are not Detailer's,anyone can 'cut' paint with G3,or another heavy compound,the point is the amount of material removal.It may be true that the OP only has G3,and a few grades of paper,but after spending probably quite a bit of cash on the painting process,why try and save money on the finishing, and risk compromising the end result:thumb:


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## moosh

waxy said:


> I agree with you,to a point.Painter's generally speaking are not Detailer's,anyone can 'cut' paint with G3,or another heavy compound,the point is the amount of material removal.It may be true that the OP only has G3,and a few grades of paper,but after spending probably quite a bit of cash on the painting process,why try and save money on the finishing, and risk compromising the end result:thumb:


Ok so further to being a painter for 15 years and a detailer for 7 of them I would class that as more professional than a detailer. Detailers for 1 have no professional training nor do they have a qualification so I think the advice I give is pretty good on the painting side of things.

He's already risked the finish by painting in a shed so nothing to loose really and no harm will be done using G3 its professional compound and the reason detailers don't like it is because its messy and you need to know how to use it, ok its old skool but its been good enough for bodyshop for 15 odd years so it will work fine on a shed paint job.

205 over the top will see it come up grand.


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## Hynde

moosh said:


> I get what you are saying but i have been a painter for 15 years mate and G3 is what we use in the bodyshops (along with others) so my advice was if you have it use it as the OP obv likes to save the cash hence painting his car in a shed and not a bodyshop.
> 
> Cutting paint is better done when it is fresh contrary to popular belief.
> 
> I agree with working up the grades of papers and then finishing with 205 but again what if the chap doesnt have all these grades of paper. :thumb:


I agree with moosh that you should cut / polish / flatten your paint before it gets hard rock because it is easier. BUT, in my opinion it is useless to do that last step serious finishing before the paint has cured properly. Of course in bodyshops you can't wait!!! You have to finish paint before customer gets his car. That is just the reality...

I think moosh is quite unusual painter because he takes care of proper finishing... Too many does not... just a little bit wool etc.


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## waxy

moosh said:


> Ok so further to being a painter for 15 years and a detailer for 7 of them I would class that as more professional than a detailer. Detailers for 1 have no professional training nor do they have a qualification so I think the advice I give is pretty good on the painting side of things.
> 
> He's already risked the finish by painting in a shed so nothing to loose really and no harm will be done using G3 its professional compound and the reason detailers don't like it is because its messy and you need to know how to use it, ok its old skool but its been good enough for bodyshop for 15 odd years so it will work fine on a shed paint job.
> 
> 205 over the top will see it come up grand.


You have been a painter for 15 years,and for seven of them a Detailer,was that when it used to be called Valeting? To say that Detailers have no professional training is quite a bold statement, and offensive,and certainly does not apply to many on here,myself included.I would consider the guys that trained me 19 years ago(Jack Barclays and Autoglym) to be professional,others may not.
Many Detailers don't use G3,not because they don't know how to use it,or find it messy,but because it is like using a sledge hammer to crack a nut.This is now off topic somewhat,so it's best if we agree to disagree.


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## moosh

waxy said:


> You have been a painter for 15 years,and for seven of them a Detailer,was that when it used to be called Valeting? To say that Detailers have no professional training is quite a bold statement, and offensive,and certainly does not apply to many on here,myself included.I would consider the guys that trained me 19 years ago(Jack Barclays and Autoglym) to be professional,others may not.
> Many Detailers don't use G3,not because they don't know how to use it,or find it messy,but because it is like using a sledge hammer to crack a nut.This is now off topic somewhat,so it's best if we agree to disagree.


It may be bold fella but its true and I don't think anyone should be offended because it was not written to offend. your telling a painter how to polish fresh paint that was painted in a shed what ever way you look at it, show me the college course or uni degree in detailing?

If you've been at it for 19 years your more likely to be a valleter than me and autoglym? Pfft that stuff is for valeters.


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## The_Bouncer




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## waxy

moosh said:


> It may be bold fella but its true and I don't think anyone should be offended because it was not written to offend. your telling a painter how to polish fresh paint that was painted in a shed what ever way you look at it, show me the college course or uni degree in detailing?
> 
> If you've been at it for 19 years your more likely to be a valleter than me and autoglym? Pfft that stuff is for valeters.


So,anyone who's been at it for 19 years or more is a valeter? most of the best Detailers on this site have paid their dues as valeters.And i assume you think anyone who uses Autoglym products,and classes themselves as a Detailer,is in fact a valeter?You are right,there are no college courses,or uni degrees in Detailing,but IMO your qualifications as a painter do not give you a knowledge/experience advantage over a Detailer when it comes to polishing paint,painting a car yes,but not polishing it.And for what it's worth,you won't find many Detailers using Farecla products,plenty of valeters do though.


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## Jack155Q4

Wow, didn't know I had all these replies. Only got one message by the email notification and thought that was it (have been away so sorry for the lack of a reply).

To clarify it is 2 pack, solid rosso red 130 colour + hardener plus thinners (air fed mask used).

I will read this back properly now.


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## Jack155Q4

I think I will get a bottle of 105 and 205 Megs and stick to 1500 and 2000 paper (1200 for the worst areas).

The thing I found hard to tell when rubbing down for the paint was when to stop and call it finished and ready for paint - when it is slightly dull or really dull. I had better go watch those videos.

Thanks all.


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## Jack155Q4

I would love to get my hands on the Megs DA V2 - looks great but it is pricey. Is ist much better than the rest or can I get a much cheaper alternative to do a good job too? My rotary mop, I think I will leave it hung up.

What about by hand....too much hard work I know but can good results be achieved?


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## stangalang

Don't waste your time by hand mate. A da is more than capable, but sanding further than 2000 will help. If you can go to 3000 you will easily do it with a da even without perfect technique. 105 and 205 are both body shop safe and far superior to the ferecla set. I say that as someone who is happy to be proven wrong and therefore will try everything. Good luck and more importantly, enjoy :thumb:


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## Teajay

+1 :thumb:
That's exactly what I found on my 2 pack paint.

I got the Megs for £149 delivered, but as I am currently not at home I cannot give you the link. Went for this because of the cruise control.
There are other good ones that cost less, also look in the for sale.

Looking forward to getting back to mine when I return home.


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## Jack155Q4

Found a Megs V2 for £149 delivered and promptly paid for it. Just have to wait a couple of weeks as they are due in.

I am borrowing one at the moment from someone in our car club and from the very brief play I have had with it, it was very nice to use. 

A LOT easier than the big rotary thing!

Just got to buy all the other bits now. 105 and 205 compounds on the way too.


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## Jack155Q4

@ the member who has PM'd me. I will get back to you just as soon as I have 10 posts to gain access to the PM system.

Thanks,
Jack


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## dubber

Jack155Q4 said:


> @ the member who has PM'd me. I will get back to you just as soon as I have 10 posts to gain access to the PM system.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jack


:thumb:


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## Jack155Q4

That will do it.


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## Teajay

Jack,
Here's an update on my 2K Acrylic respray re the detailing method.

I got the Megs DA G220 V2 delivered for £149 from:-
http://www.camskill.co.uk/m37b0s3519p80142/_MEGUIARS_G220_Dual_Action_Polisher_(Version_2)


Having tried various colour Foam pads (Hexlogic and Megs) with Megs #105 & #205, I also tried Farecla G3 compound.

I ended up getting the Megs MF (micro fibre) cutting and finishing pads, with the D300 MF correction compound and Abralon wet & dry disks, 2000/3000/4000 grit.

The slight orange peel for some reason was worst on some vertical body panels, the horizontal surfaces, i.e. roof & upper parts of all the wings were OK, as were the 2 doors, boot & bonnet. (These being laid out flat on tables for spraying)

I used Abralon Discs on the Megs DA (all used wet) starting with 2000 grit on the orange peel, followed by 3000 grit. This was then followed by 4000 grit on all items. The 4000 started to give a slight polished look.
After the wet & dry, a good clean up with Menzerna Top Inspection & MF Towel.

Then the Megs 5" MF cutting pad with the MF D300 correction compound at setting 4.
The result at this stage was stunning and quicker than using the foam pads with Megs #105.

I then used 5" MF finishing pads with the Megs #205 at setting 3.
I understand that it's preferable to use the MF D301 finishing wax with the MF finishing pads, but I did not wish to use a LSP (no sealers or wax) on the paintwork at this stage. The LSP will follow when I have re assembled all the body parts together.
The paint work had now reached the wow factor; I am really really pleased with the result.

It did take some time, 34 hrs, but the result was worth it.

My thanks to all who gave me advice via this forum on my other thread:-
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=232834&highlight=Teajay
TJ


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## Jack155Q4

Thanks TJ.
If I read that right you say that you used the Abralon discs (i.e these) with the Megs G220?

I was going to rub down by hand the whole car in 1500 then 2000 and 3000 (sheet and block) then 4000 with the Mirka Abralon Discs with the hand polishing backing pads.

I have heard a bit about the Megs Microfibre system and read that it is not for the beginner. 
I may stay safe if this is the case and use the foam foam pads for now and see how I get on.

Thanks,
Jack

p.s I ordered the G220 from Camskill too


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## Teajay

Hi Jack.

Yes I got the Mirka Abralon discs from polishedbliss and the 150mm diameter ones fitted onto the backing pad supplied with the Megs DA G220, I used speed setting 4.
So so much easier than by hand and the stiff backing plate helped to level the paint.

The usual warnings when using wet & dry, keep away from edges as it will quickly cut through to the primer, also use tape on coach lines to maintain straightness.

Like you, I sprayed the car and I am also a beginner with the DA.

I have tried several different foam pads and compounds, but I did find the Megs MF pads worked better and also again helped to level the paint.

I got these from i4detailing, the total cost was £60.94 which therefore had free next day delivery and* I also got a £4.12 discount by using the code DWX (all capitals).* The items purchased included a Kestral 5" Pro backing plate which was used with the 5" MF pads.
So my list was:-
Megs DA 5" MF cutting pads @ £14.16
Megs DA 5" MF finishing pads @ £14.16
Kestrel 5" Pro backing plate @ £8.29
Megs DA MF Correction Compound @ £18.29
As above with the £4.12 discount the total was £60.94.
The items were delivered next day (if order placed before 2.00pm) by DPD who send you an e-mail stating the delivery time within a one hour slot. Great customer service.:thumb:

As to using the MF system, if you use the items as per instructions you soon get the feel of it.
It's important to prime the pads with compound and then I used 3 pea sized blobs of compound for each 18" x 18" set. Go slow with the DA (set at 4) and as you apply a little pressure you will feel it start to cut the paint. Suggest that you look at some YouTube videos of the Megs MF system, assuming that you haven't already.

For finishing with the MF pads, same technique, but I used Megs #205 finishing polish, setting 3.

How to use details are on the compound bottles.
Again you will feel the difference between cutting and finishing with the MF pads, finishing feels softer/lighter than cutting.

Hope this helps, all the best with your new DA.:buffer:
TJ


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## Jack155Q4

Teajay said:


> all the best with your new DA.:buffer:
> TJ


Received today. Shame I can't get any time soon to work on it but will have to be patient

Cheers TJ - will update with progress :buffer:


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## Jack155Q4

Today I had a go at the boot lid. Most of the car is pretty orange peely so i foresee a lot of work.

I started with 1500 by hand with a block and soapy water. It started to flat nicely but I did not go for perfect flatness as I had to use the 2000, 3000, and 4000.

I now wish I had gone for for perfection on the 1500. I used the 2-4Ks with the DA (so much easier as you say) then cut with Megs 205 and then finished with 105 I was very happy with the result but in the places where I know I had done the 1500 by hand properly and then moved on it was like glass!

Look forward to doing the rest now - wish I could find more time.

How much pressure do you apply when using the grit papers on the DA?

I started at a speed of 1-2 but quickly realised you dont get anywhere until about 3. Will try it on 4 next time.

Cheers for the advice, it was very valuable!

Jack


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## nick_mcuk

justina3 said:


> whilst g3 might be old hat i wouldnt consider it as junk


Exactly ...and the new range of trade stuff is simply awesome.....no fillers, water based and knocks spots off of the likes of 3M.

Pissed me off people saying G3 is junk.....every product has its place...


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## Jack155Q4

Just watched a Megs video on YouTube and realise now that I should have been wet sanding with the DA!


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## Teajay

Hi Jack.

I assume you used the Mirka Abralon disks on the DA?
And yes they work better when used wet on the 2 pack paint (water with a little fairy liquid washing up liquid in).

I used a hand spray to wet the panel and disc, this helps to stop the pad from getting clogged up with paint and the pads also last longer. The 2000 grit are the work horse, I used a total of 4off on my car and 2off each of the 3000 and 4000 grit (all 150mm diameter). Speed was 3 to 4.

Worked an area of 18” x 18” with 3 medium pressure passes followed by 2 slightly lighter passes, then cleaned the pad & area with MF towel. Inspected the area to see if it needed any further correction with the 2000 grit. I then used a similar technique for the 3K & 4K pads but with 2 medium & 2 lighter passes on each area.

After each panel I removed the pads and cleaned them by gently squeezing them out it in a bucket of warm water with fairy liquid.

You can see the pads working, particularly the 2K ones as the water turns to the colour of your paint. In my case red water sludge, this is what I wiped off with the MF towel prior to moving onto the next area. 

You will see that the 4K pads start to give a polished look.

I think you have a typo in that the Megs #105 is the cutting compound & #205 finishes/polishes.

Hope this helps, but it all depends on the degree of orange peel and thickness of paint.
I would describe mine as mainly light, with some small areas medium. I was very careful not to cut through the top coat into the primer, particularly on the edges.
If you feel more confident blocking off first by hand with the 1500, then go for it.
Cheers TJ


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## Jack155Q4

Teajay said:


> Hi Jack.
> 
> I assume you used the Mirka Abralon disks on the DA?
> And yes they work better when used wet on the 2 pack paint (water with a little fairy liquid washing up liquid in).
> 
> I used a hand spray to wet the panel and disc, this helps to stop the pad from getting clogged up with paint and the pads also last longer. The 2000 grit are the work horse, I used a total of 4off on my car and 2off each of the 3000 and 4000 grit (all 150mm diameter). Speed was 3 to 4.
> 
> Worked an area of 18" x 18" with 3 medium pressure passes followed by 2 slightly lighter passes, then cleaned the pad & area with MF towel. Inspected the area to see if it needed any further correction with the 2000 grit. I then used a similar technique for the 3K & 4K pads but with 2 medium & 2 lighter passes on each area.
> 
> After each panel I removed the pads and cleaned them by gently squeezing them out it in a bucket of warm water with fairy liquid.
> 
> You can see the pads working, particularly the 2K ones as the water turns to the colour of your paint. In my case red water sludge, this is what I wiped off with the MF towel prior to moving onto the next area.
> 
> You will see that the 4K pads start to give a polished look.
> 
> I think you have a typo in that the Megs #105 is the cutting compound & #205 finishes/polishes.
> 
> Hope this helps, but it all depends on the degree of orange peel and thickness of paint.
> I would describe mine as mainly light, with some small areas medium. I was very careful not to cut through the top coat into the primer, particularly on the edges.
> If you feel more confident blocking off first by hand with the 1500, then go for it.
> Cheers TJ


Hi TJ,

Yes they were Mirka Abralon disks on the DA.
I will try again starting at 2000 but wet this time. 1500 is probably a bit rough on and near the edges. I have 3 coats of paint on the car.
I did notice it clogging up so the water will help.

Yes, typo on the Megs compounds.
Will have another go on Saturday and let you know my progress.

Jack


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## Jack155Q4

Had a go on the roof yesterday. Got on fairly well. I went straight on with the discs with the DA from 2000, then 3 then 4 followed by 105 and 205. The finish was good but still looked a bit too ripply ffor my liking so started again with block sanding with 1500. Then I repeated all with the DA from 2-4K. I am yet to use the 105 and 205 but I expect I will have a better finish than before.


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## Teajay

Sounds like you are making progress.
The roof is a bit more difficult than side panels etc, due to the stretching required.
Also you learn as you go forward, a great feeling when the results are good.
Keep us informed of your progress.

Cheers TJ


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## Jack155Q4

Have made a little more progress with the roof and a rear quarter panel.

Starting to get a shine:

















Rear quarter flattened:









Maybe another 6 months and it will be done :wall:

The colour looks great but the photos make it look poor due to the resizing and compression.

Enjoying it although it's a long process (as I was warned!).


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## Teajay

Jack.

Good to see your progress with the photo's, looking at the reflections the finish looks great. :thumb:

I am sure that you have now got the technique for your paintwork sorted. Just having the available time.

My Lotus is progressing, I am currently stripping, cleaning and refurbishing all the items prior to refitting them on the body, i.e. Servo, Pedal box with brake & clutch master cylinders etc etc. 

Re the detailing, I got a very good finish, but when the 2 doors, bonnet and boot are refitted, I will go over the whole car again, then give it a wax.

Keep posting your updates.

Cheers TJ


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## Jack155Q4

Have managed to do both the rear quarters, boot and bonnet now.

If I am honest I am not entirely happy with the outcome but maybe I am trying to rush it too much.

My out of the gun paint finish was not great at all. I have been using 1500, 2000, 3000 and 4000 sanding discs with the Megs DA. I don't find them to be too effective past the first half minute of using them - they seem to stop cutting straight away - certainly no colour is being lifted after these 30 seconds. I am using them with a water spray with a drop of washing up liquid. I have tried various speeds and settled with about 4-5.

Instead I am now block sanding wet by hand with Klingspor 1500 and finishing with the DA with 2K, 3K and 4K. This is followed by Megs 105 and 205. The shine is there but it was not as I was expecting.

Due to the poor finish I am finding that this rubbing down takes forever. The 1500 does the job (eventually) and in places I have used 1200. Can I drop to 1000 or even 800 if I am careful? Will I still be able to bring it back up to a shine after following this with the 1.5, 2, 3 and 4Ks?

My other complaint/query is with the Klingspor W&D. It is supposed to be a well know good producer of paper but i find it wears out really quickly and will wear through to the green backing in to time at all.
It was eBay bought and I don't know if I have a bad few sheets or not. 

Can anyone recommend any alternatives to try.

Many thanks,
Jack


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## nick_mcuk

Christ you must have a paint finish like wood chip wall paper if you are considering 1200 or 800 grit paper. 

Have you got any photos often offending finish, you will probably get a better more accurate response. 

From what you have said I think re-prep and paint it again properly. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Jack155Q4

OK, 800 or 1000 is a bit extreme but I did use 1200 on a bit and it made getting it flat a lot quicker and then a few passes with 1.5, 2, 3 and 4K saw it good. I may carry on like this.

My main gripe is with the sanding discs and how short a time they actually cut the paint. As far as I know if there is no colour change in the water then not much is happening.

The photos are not great. 95% of the bonnet looks good but there are the areas where I missed the orange peel - of course you don't see it all until the paint is 100% dry.


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