# First attempt with GLARE



## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

Yesterday saw me break the seal on some the GLARE products bought last month. 
The daughter 1 Series was the guinea pig as she has always complained that even though it's only 12 months older than mine it's never been as white even though it's on the same paint code.
Started out with foam and the usual 2BM wash then hit with IronX and tardis to decon the paint fully.

The paint condition was generally pretty good just the usual swirls and micro scratches that come from a poorish washing routine. I started by giving it a hit with Glare Spider Swirl remover, followed by 2 coats of Micro-Finish and a single coat of Polish+. Everything was applied by DA using a medium polishing pad as 'I had been told by Savvyfox It would be better to help the product bond if a little heat was built up in the application.
Here's the results.














































I wouldn't sy that Glare is the easist stuff to work with and I wouldn't like to think I was applying by hand unless you have arms like Arnie, and the spider seemed to need shaking up to mix the product everytime it went on the pad, but......... It's worth it!
The paint now has a wet looking finish that I honestly didn't think would be possible on white with reflections to match.

The Only issue I have at the minute is because I did this on the Daughters car, I have to do it all over agin at the weekend on mine ;( such is life! :lol:

As always any comments welcome


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## Coachman (Mar 8, 2015)

Is the the glare polish? Is it a filler or a cutter? 

Been trying to look on there website but it's down.


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## camerashy (Feb 9, 2014)

I have always applied Glare Polish by hand without any trouble, it leaves a super slick finish.


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## fethead (May 12, 2007)

Good reflections on that and well done regarding the amount of coats you did. Been looking at Glare but not taken the plunge. I hear that they will be at Waxstock. I might pick some up. Congrats on the good work.

Richard


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Ljh1991 said:


> Is the the glare polish? Is it a filler or a cutter?
> 
> Been trying to look on there website but it's down.


Its kind of all of them. Micro or spider, i wouldn't say are "heavy cut" products, next to non in real terms, but when used on a polishing pad with its own cut, the finish is mega. It fills for sure, but not in the normal "glaze" sense. Pro i would say is completely non abrasive, all filling, but again not like a glaze. It wont wash out. Ive applied micro via rotary before and left holograms (stiff pad), and pro took them out easy peasy. They never came back. But it isn't truly polishing them away either.

My routine:
Micro via rotary, 1500 rpm (ish). Leave on panel and move to the next. Do a couple of panels then remove with a da and glazing pad. 
Pro polish using said glazing pad on a DA until it disappears, again few panels then a token buff with a plush mf towel. 2 coats. Boom, done


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## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

stangalang said:


> Its kind of all of them. Micro or spider, i wouldn't say are "heavy cut" products, next to non in real terms, but when used on a polishing pad with its own cut, the finish is mega. It fills for sure, but not in the normal "glaze" sense. Pro i would say is completely non abrasive, all filling, but again not like a glaze. It wont wash out. Ive applied micro via rotary before and left holograms (stiff pad), and pro took them out easy peasy. They never came back. But it isn't truly polishing them away either.
> 
> My routine:
> Micro via rotary, 1500 rpm (ish). Leave on panel and move to the next. Do a couple of panels then remove with a da and glazing pad.
> Pro polish using said glazing pad on a DA until it disappears, again few panels then a token buff with a plush mf towel. 2 coats. Boom, done


Cheers matt I was wondering about different methods to apply it. I'll give it a go with the rotary on mine at the weekend, never thought of removing with a finishing pad, BONUS! :thumb:


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## A&J (Mar 4, 2015)

Looks really good & glossy fozzy :thumb: nice job


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## Daragh (Sep 11, 2006)

Looks great. When I used Glare as a system many years ago, "Spider" (heavy filler) was applied after "Micro-Finish" (pre-cleaner, oxidation remover) and before the Professional Polish (sealant). I have the bottles here still and the labels state to apply the products in that exact order. 

Granted, that is a long time ago and product formulations may have changed since, but reading through the Glare USA site they say to apply Micro-Finish or Professional Polish after Spider (like you did). Yet their Hurricane pad system has Micro-Finish as Step 2 and Spider as Step 3 in the process. It would be worth checking into as to which is best/correct.


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

Daragh said:


> Looks great. When I used Glare as a system many years ago, "Spider" (heavy filler) was applied after "Micro-Finish" (pre-cleaner, oxidation remover) and before the Professional Polish (sealant). I have the bottles here still and the labels state to apply the products in that exact order.
> 
> Granted, that is a long time ago and product formulations may have changed since, but reading through the Glare USA site they say to apply Micro-Finish or Professional Polish after Spider (like you did). Yet their Hurricane pad system has Micro-Finish as Step 2 and Spider as Step 3 in the process. It would be worth checking into as to which is best/correct.


was told the same when i first started using glare.


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## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

Here's the info on Spider

'*GLARE SPIDER will correct even the heaviest level of swirls and should always be followed with an application of GLARE MICRO-FINISH or GLARE PROFESSIONAL POLISH. GLARE SPIDER has been designed to also work excellently on plastic too! Truly Beyond 22nd Century Technology!*'

Followed this and results were great, I'll recheck with Savvyfox but there were impressive improvements at every stage.


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## great gonzo (Nov 4, 2010)

Fantastic results for white, some of the best I have seen. 
Does not sound the easiest products to understand and work with but well worth it after seeing the end result. 

Gonz.


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## Shiny (Apr 23, 2007)

To be fair, I find it very easy to work with. I can't use many polishes on my paint as they become sticky and almost impossible to buff off without some brute force ending in marring.

Glare Micro and Polish both go on easy and any remains after polishing buff off easy too.


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## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

The biggest issue for me was the Spider, having to give it a good 60 seconds shake up everytime it was applied to the pad was a real pain, not sure if it's always like that, I'll have to check. Just given it another coat of Polish+ this morning using Matts technique, Sooooo much better with the rotary.


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## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

Shiny said:


> To be fair, I find it very easy to work with. I can't use many polishes on my paint as they become sticky and almost impossible to buff off without some brute force ending in marring.
> 
> Glare Micro and Polish both go on easy and any remains after polishing buff off easy too.
> 
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNc3yGtwKN8


Looking good there matey, thats exactly why I'm looking forward to trying it on my boys Clio in blue, results should be epic 
:buffer:


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## great gonzo (Nov 4, 2010)

Do you guys think it could add much to silver?

Gonz.


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## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

great gonzo said:


> Do you guys think it could add much to silver?
> 
> Gonz.


Absolutely Gonzo, If it can add wet gloss to white, silver shouldn't be a problem.


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## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

Ljh1991 said:


> Is the the glare polish? Is it a filler or a cutter?
> 
> Been trying to look on there website but it's down.


Go to glare-uk.co.uk it's running fine!


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## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

fozzy said:


> Here's the info on Spider
> 
> '*GLARE SPIDER will correct even the heaviest level of swirls and should always be followed with an application of GLARE MICRO-FINISH or GLARE PROFESSIONAL POLISH. GLARE SPIDER has been designed to also work excellently on plastic too! Truly Beyond 22nd Century Technology!*'
> 
> Followed this and results were great, I'll recheck with Savvyfox but there were impressive improvements at every stage.


Hi Fozzy,
A great review! Glare may require a bit of effort but boy are you rewarded! I did a demo on a faded old Toyota and it looked fantastic. ( I've been using a rotary for 30years, so wasn't an effort compared to what I've used in the past) Next time you use it, use a small amount and machine it in well before moving to the next panel
Glare central! Says use spider then micro-finish as the preferred method, I did it the other way and still got a great shine. Micro-finish "cuts" so adhesive terms give professional something to bite too.


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## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

great gonzo said:


> Do you guys think it could add much to silver?
> 
> Gonz.


Did a quick demo panel on a metallic white Mazda this morning and there was a marked difference between the panel I did and the Gtechniq panels the detailer did. Much smoother and the flake pops more!


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## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

savvyfox said:


> Hi Fozzy,
> A great review! Glare may require a bit of effort but boy are you rewarded! I did a demo on a faded old Toyota and it looked fantastic. ( I've been using a rotary for 30years, so wasn't an effort compared to what I've used in the past) Next time you use it, use a small amount and machine it in well before moving to the next panel
> Glare central! Says use spider then micro-finish as the preferred method, I did it the other way and still got a great shine. Micro-finish "cuts" so adhesive terms give professional something to bite too.


Cheers matey, I think I used a little to much Polish+ on the first application, did the second coat with the rotary and used half as much again and was much much easier.
Not as much sun out either for the second coat so the lack of bright light on the white paint made it easier to see the product on the paint (man I need a workshop lol)

Should the spider need as much mixing as it did? it was separating within minutes of giving it a mahoosive shake up to a clear liquid and almost cottage cheese like consistency, but ok again once given another big shake up.


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## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

fozzy said:


> Should the spider need as much mixing as it did? it was separating within minutes of giving it a mahoosive shake up to a clear liquid and almost cottage cheese like consistency, but ok again once given another big shake up.


Haven't noticed, but I do tend to shake everything, every time! Both knock out and spider are very liquid and do tend to split after a time.


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## broncoupe (Aug 19, 2010)

Great product used Glare for the last 5 years with very durable results.
one i did earlier http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/album.php?albumid=1296&pictureid=8290


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## broncoupe (Aug 19, 2010)

I find with Glare less is more, be really mean, and work it in and in 
When its worked in properly the residue wipes away easily, a bit to much on a warm day its a bloody nightmare.
Also on the second coat by hand with a sponge pad really mean again and leave it as long as practical at least 30 minutes
we are all used to putting far too much product on cars makes life tough for ourselves http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/album.php?albumid=1296&pictureid=8291


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## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

broncoupe said:


> I find with Glare less is more, be really mean, and work it in and in
> When its worked in properly the residue wipes away easily, a bit to much on a warm day its a bloody nightmare.
> Also on the second coat by hand with a sponge pad really mean again and leave it as long as practical at least 30 minutes
> we are all used to putting far too much product on cars makes life tough for ourselves http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/album.php?albumid=1296&pictureid=8291


That's so true, I halved the amount on the second coat and it was so much easier to work with, plus the tip from Matt allowed me to get more heat into the pad which helped in bonding. Removing residue with a finishing pad was an excellent plan, sometimes it's the simplest things that make such a massive difference (we just need a Pro detailer to shove us in the right direction  )


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

fozzy said:


> That's so true, I halved the amount on the second coat and it was so much easier to work with, plus the tip from Matt allowed me to get more heat into the pad which helped in bonding. Removing residue with a finishing pad was an excellent plan, sometimes it's the simplest things that make such a massive difference (we just need a Pro detailer to shove us in the right direction  )


Did it work for you? A little time to sit and then remove that way i found excellent


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## fozzy (Oct 22, 2009)

stangalang said:


> Did it work for you? A little time to sit and then remove that way i found excellent


Absolutely, made a massive difference. :thumb:. No more coats for her though I'll be running short for my big detail lol


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

fozzy said:


> Absolutely, made a massive difference. :thumb:. No more coats for her though I'll be running short for my big detail lol


spot on. Let me know if you have any more plays at different techniques please


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## broncoupe (Aug 19, 2010)

What you will find is that it does last 12+ the water beading changes from beading to more of a sheeting pattern
If you decide to put a top up coat on its really quick
I have found if you do a really intensive prep on white and silver you are rewarded with a wet look finish
I usually use non filling polish 3D HD with Glare like you said not quick but shows in results that Aston was Factory fresh and still took 2 days


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