# can't smooth patched paintwork with meguiars 2500 grit



## TigerUK (Apr 1, 2012)

I was told to get this to smooth out some light paint filling work, but i cant seem to get it to work.

I'm pressing it with my fingers, rather than using some backing pad. Do I need some sort of backing pad?

I was watching turtlewax paint repair video like this 




I don't want to buy that kit, cost £15, I have the clotch, lubricant, paint applicator pens etc. already. is there any place I can just by the abrasive pads from?


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## TigerUK (Apr 1, 2012)

opps, just found some. shinearama has them in stock.

http://www.shinearama.co.uk/product.php?id=SCH-DAISY-2500
http://www.shinearama.co.uk/product.php?id=SCH-DAISY-3000
http://www.shinearama.co.uk/product.php?id=SCH-DAISY-2000

Would appreciate some guidance on how to attack this task. Do I need all three grits? interesting that turtle wax doesn't saw what grit their scratch pads are.


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## TigerUK (Apr 1, 2012)

last question, how bid are these daisies? if they're 3" I can fit them on my sdmall rotary backing plate, and then apply by hand. Don't see the point in buying their dedicated daisy holders.


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## Hasan1 (Jul 1, 2011)

The ones I got are about the size of a 50p. Can't remember if its that make I got


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## Glaschu (Sep 16, 2012)

What is it exactly you're trying to flat? Is it a scratch repair or a larger area?


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## TigerUK (Apr 1, 2012)

Hasan1 said:


> The ones I got are about the size of a 50p. Can't remember if its that make I got


oh ok, I actually looked up the scholl concepts site and it says the diameter is 35mm. although I think the actual effective diameter is probably 25mm.

So can't use my rotary pad, just as well really because it would have been excessive to have to sand out 75mm of paint for a hairline scratch.


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## TigerUK (Apr 1, 2012)

Glaschu said:


> What is it exactly you're trying to flat? Is it a scratch repair or a larger area?


just those long clear coat scratches, parked my car next to a bin bag which had metal cans inside. didn't notice it had tipped over and was leaning against my car, drove off and left long surface level scratches that I can't seem to buff out. Cars a VW so paint is really tough. I think it will only come off if I sand it.


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## Glaschu (Sep 16, 2012)

What grit have you been using?


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## TigerUK (Apr 1, 2012)

2500 unigrit meguiars sheet as stated in the title.

I think the problem is I;m applying by hand without a flat backing, which makes the job harder, i think I just need some decent backing for even pressure.


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## Glaschu (Sep 16, 2012)

TigerUK said:


> 2500 unigrit meguiars sheet as stated in the title.
> 
> I think the problem is I;m applying by hand without a flat backing, which makes the job harder, i think I just need some decent backing for even pressure.


You need to start with something a bit more bite, it's difficult to advise without seeing what it is your attempting to correct, but I'd be starting with 1500 or perhaps even1000 if I was levelling touched-in lacquer. I wouldn't be buying those tiny sheets of Meguiars or other "detailing" sheets either, you're just paying for the name.


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## TigerUK (Apr 1, 2012)

cool so what grit do you recommened? I realised I can make my own sanding boards, just glued the sandpaper on cardboard and looks decent enough.

1000 grit
1500 grit
2500 grit

Hows that?


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## Glaschu (Sep 16, 2012)

TigerUK said:


> cool so what grit do you recommened? I realised I can make my own sanding boards, just glued the sandpaper on cardboard and looks decent enough.
> 
> 1000 grit
> 1500 grit
> ...


I'd maybe go 1500/2000/2500, but an extra sheet of 1000 isn't going to break the bank. Can't say I'd bother with a board though, just use your fingers...


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## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

Dont rub down with your fingers! If you do it wrong you'll leave finger marks/lines in it.

Use a block or foam pad. And dont go any lower than 1500 grit.

1000 isnt a finishing paper.


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

As above about using some sort of block. 
You want to achieve a flat surface buy taking off the high points eventually taking it down level to the original finish so you need to use something reasonably solid and flat - and your fingers aren't either.


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## Aaran (Sep 18, 2007)

wrap the paper around a long 10mm socket. you have a nice hard round base with a small surface area perfect for doing intricate work on curved sections. let the paper do all the work, dont press down or you will pick up more crap and put deeper scratches in than what you are sanding with.


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

Aaran said:


> wrap the paper around a long 10mm socket. you have a nice hard round base with a small surface area perfect for doing intricate work on curved sections. let the paper do all the work, dont press down or you will pick up more crap and put deeper scratches in than what you are sanding with.


If you you refer back there is no mention of this being intricate work on a curved surface?
And even if it was I would question using a hard bit of curved metal covered in an abrasive material to obtain a uniform smooth finish ????? (Unless of course the hard bit of of curved metal just happened to match the intricate curved surface you were working on.)


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## Glaschu (Sep 16, 2012)

Benn said:


> Dont rub down with your fingers! If you do it wrong you'll leave finger marks/lines in it.
> 
> Use a block or foam pad. And dont go any lower than 1500 grit.
> 
> 1000 isnt a finishing paper.


It's quite safe to use your fingers, providing you do so at 90 degrees to the direction of sanding...


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

Glaschu said:


> It's quite safe to use your fingers, providing you do so at 90 degrees to the direction of sanding...


Nah ...Sorry ... I'm not falling for it!
For the sake of tuppence-ha'penny I'd use a block.


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## Glaschu (Sep 16, 2012)

squiggs said:


> Nah ...Sorry ... I'm not falling for it!
> For the sake of tuppence-ha'penny I'd use a block.


Ah, well I must have been doing it wrong all these years :lol:


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## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

Glaschu said:


> It's quite safe to use your fingers, providing you do so at 90 degrees to the direction of sanding...


If you know what you are doing you can flat by hand yes. Using the flatest plat of your fingers. But even someone that's been doing it for years can sand finger lines in to clear/paint.
It's not worth it. When a foam pad is what 3quid? My 3m one cost me £5

I worked in a body-shop for quite a few years, i flatted alot of paint/lacquer in that time. Some by hand and some with a block, after 5/6 years i'd still use a block. Even more on factor paint, as factory paint can be so different over different makes.
I've seen people "in the know" on here flatting clear to re polish. In their pics you can see they've left finger marks in it. As it really is easy to do and will ruin a good paint job.

Block wise, harder foam or med hard rubber.


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