# Gyeon Syncro or CQUK 3.O



## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Which one You would choose for New car and why?
Which one is more durable?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

I have not cast a vote in this poll, as I cannot compare the two... 

However, due to the water spotting issue with silica nano-coatings, I would probably lean towards any 2-part system with a durable topcoat (Not a waterborne spray topper) based on a hybrid, fluorinated silane, or rubber technology. Gliss + CQ UK 3.0 would be a more directly comparable combo to Gyeon Synchro in this regard. 

Also, regarding this, I would focus on the durability of that topcoat over that of the basecoat... No point in going with a nano-coating capable of lasting a year or more, if the upper coating layer that helps keep it slick, and free of water spots, is dead after a few months, and is a pain to re-prep and reapply. 

Furthermore, if you don't have an indoor environment with good temperature/humidity levels to apply it in, I would not overlook the ease of application... Applying a coating outside, in the wrong weather conditions, can quickly become an utter nightmare. Practice with your product of choice helps, too (Especially if you don't apply a lot of coatings.), so get some spare applicator cloths and a little more product than you need, and give it a go first on a scrap panel in the same environment you intend to apply it in. 

Just based on my own experience with coatings, these are some of the thoughts that would be running through my head when it came to selecting another one... 

Hope this helps. 

- Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Good points Steampunk. I’m able to use garage so that isn’t going to be problem. That been said I have only experienced Nanolex Si3d and CQUK 2.0 and they are equally good but I’ m wondering if these new ones are evolved regarding durability, ease of use and self cleaning abilities. Regarding Gliss topcoat Sandro from Car craft auto detailing doesn’t praise about it even though he praise about CQUK.


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## The Guz (Jan 27, 2019)

I am in Southern California and I have used Syncro and currently have Cquartz UK 3.0 on my daily driver. 

This is my experience with both. 

First of all I have not had any water spotting with any coating I have used. It’s been rainy here this year more than past years and still no spotting. 

I used Syncro as soon it was available to the public. I applied it to my dads daily driver that was polished with Gyeon Primer. Primer is a primer polish which is also supposed to aid in longevity. It has with Gyeon CanCoat. 

The application of Syncro is very easy. The downside is the Mohs needs at least two coats with 1 hour in between coats. Then it’s 4 hours until Skin can be applied. A lot of work and wait time. 

Skin is the slickest top coat and has some of the most impressive water behavior. The downside is that Skin lacks in durability and longevity. By 6 months it was showing signs of being gone. In the end Syncro barely made it to 1 year. 

I documented all this in my thread on Autogeek. I had high hopes for Syncro but it was rather disappointing. I ended up polishing it off and am now trying out 22ple VX Pro2 on my dad’s car. 

I have Cquartz UK 3.0 on my daily driver as I mentioned. I also have areas where it is topped with Gliss V1. 

CQUK 3.0 was reformulated to handle water spots better than 2.0. Gliss is also designed to have anti water spotting issues. Version 2 is now out which has better durability. 

CQUK 3.0 is easier to use and is less tacky than 2.0. I have 3.0, TiO2 and 2.0 on my hood and at 8 months all 3 are doing well. I am not using any toppers. I also don’t have any water spotting issues. 

As far as I can tell Gliss V1 is holding up quite well. It is hydrophobic and slick but Skin beats it in those two areas. Although Gliss would be more comparable to Gyeon Booster. The only complaint I have is that Gliss can haze after 48 hours. At least with V1. It is gone after the first wash. 

Based on what I have been seeing, I would recommend CQUK 3.0 over Syncro. Gliss is a nice addition over CQUK 3.0 for additional slickness. Maintain with Elixir and one is good to go. 

I have all of this on my threads over on Autogeek.


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## wish wash (Aug 25, 2011)

Why is it that you've decided between these two over others


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

These are easily available. I can get also Gtechniq and Nanolex stuff


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## jamiepollock643 (May 12, 2013)

Ive had gyeon syncro on my q3. I genuinely couldn't recommend it highly enough! After application the car went through last years winter and this just passed and has undergone numerous sits at the airport for a week or two and the coating is still going very strong 14 months in now. Zero waterspotting issues for me also, I experienced previous coatings all of which had this issue and some durability issues in terms of their top coats. 

I haven't tried Car Pro now to be fair, but having just taken delivery of our other new car I went straight to Syncro again given its performance.

My application and maintenance - Gyeon Primer (Left to cure the 24hrs), Syncro application (After which I left to cure for a full 24hrs followed by 2 layers of cure) reasonably regular washes (Albeit its gone 6 or more weeks at periods without washing) with Gyeon Bathe and rarely an odd top off of cure also.


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## bmac800 (Mar 12, 2007)

Would I be able to use Gyeon Cure which I already have on top of the CQUK ?


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## csf (May 1, 2008)

The Guz said:


> I am in Southern California and I have used Syncro and currently have Cquartz UK 3.0 on my daily driver.
> 
> This is my experience with both.
> 
> ...


As you mentioned, you did Synchro with Prime, what about CQ, did you use Essence before coating or Prime? Interesting is that nobody talk about primers, it's almost like "tabu" theme - does primers compromise durability or prolong it? I see more then 10cars made with Dura bead, Flex, Mohs+ and Synchro by profesional detailers who use primer and beading newer last 12 months, and I see same coating on cars where they didn't use any primer and durability of beading/sheeting was much more better. Yes you can get beading/sheeting back by wet coat and Bathe+ but in general if you will use classic bathe shampoo it will newer bead for 5 years, if you get 12 months beading you can be proud of result. Now someone will say that beading is not indicator if there is still coating on it...yes but who claim "best" and "longest" beading/sheeting for 5years on the box?

@sm81

If brand have good marketing and nice packages doesn't mean that product inside is good to


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## Berylburton (Sep 14, 2013)

I have used Carpro Essence followed Gyeon Pure, which I believe is a replacement for Gyeon Prime. I did my wife Mini Cooper JCW last Easter. It is still going strong. 
I did a tar and Iron remover last Sept and one last Saturday. 
I have used Bathe+ about once a month on average. 

I plan to do the car with Carpro Essence plus this easter.


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## The Guz (Jan 27, 2019)

csf said:


> As you mentioned, you did Synchro with Prime, what about CQ, did you use Essence before coating or Prime? Interesting is that nobody talk about primers, it's almost like "tabu" theme - does primers compromise durability or prolong it? I see more then 10cars made with Dura bead, Flex, Mohs+ and Synchro by profesional detailers who use primer and beading newer last 12 months, and I see same coating on cars where they didn't use any primer and durability of beading/sheeting was much more better. Yes you can get beading/sheeting back by wet coat and Bathe+ but in general if you will use classic bathe shampoo it will newer bead for 5 years, if you get 12 months beading you can be proud of result. Now someone will say that beading is not indicator if there is still coating on it...yes but who claim "best" and "longest" beading/sheeting for 5years on the box?
> 
> @sm81
> 
> If brand have good marketing and nice packages doesn't mean that product inside is good to


Yes I forgot to mention that I'm using Essence followed by CQUK 3.0. At 8 months it is outperforming Primer + Syncro.

I treat both the same letting the primer polish sit overnight to allow the SiO2 cure and do a light prep wipe the following day mostly to remove the light dust that may have settled in the paint. Then proceeded with the coating.

Syncro is great at the beginning especially Skin. But about 6 months in it is already lacking in performance. Decon washes didn't revive it.

Here is the last video on Syncro.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

What about CSL? Is it good enough without Exo? Does it have good enough dirt repellancy for long term when using in Finland?

https://www.detailedimage.com/GTechniq-M70/Crystal-Serum-Light-P1128/Reviews/
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/106431-crystal-serum-light-4.html
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/119736-gtechniq-coatings-csl-evo.html


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## The Guz (Jan 27, 2019)

sm81 said:


> What about CSL? Is it good enough without Exo? Does it have good enough dirt repellancy for long term when using in Finland?
> 
> https://www.detailedimage.com/GTechniq-M70/Crystal-Serum-Light-P1128/Reviews/
> 
> ...


It's not bad. But it is not as hydrophobic in terms of beading compared to CQUK 3.0. CSL is more of a sheeting type coating. Exo does add that more aggressive water behavior. CSL + Exo makes for a nice combo.

CSL is better than Mohs at least in my experience.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

So CSL+Exov4 aren’t any more durable than CQUK 3 in real life ?


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

I decided to go with Nanolex Si3D HD. Thanks


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Do I have to throw my towels away after using Si3D HD?


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## Sawel (Aug 5, 2016)

sm81 said:


> Do I have to throw my towels away after using Si3D HD?


Some say to throw them away, especially if they've been sitting a while because the coating on the cloths will harden and washing the cloths won't remove the product from the cloth.

Alternatively, as soon as you've finished with a cloth, immediately stick in a bucket of all purpose cleaner and wring out then wash in washing machine.

If the cloths have been left a while, you can still use them for the grubby tasks another time (wheel arches etc).


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