# Rotary with Menzerna Ceramiclear Polishes - By Stevie L200



## andyollie (Dec 5, 2005)

Copied off another thread, thought it was worth sticking in here:



L200 Steve said:


> Starting with a dry 6" polishing pad.
> 
> With the rotary off, give the pad 2 spritz's of QD, then on a low speed, let the QD be absorbed into the pad. This stops the lubricating oils in the polish soaking into the dry pad, keeping the lubrication of the pad face where it is needed. The pad will after about 20 to 30 seconds of slow running stop weeping QD, then it's erady for the polish.
> 
> ...


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## jedi-knight83 (Aug 11, 2006)

ive not used QD to prime the pad before

when it says to spray twice and then run at low speed for 30 seconds ish.. i presume you just do this away from the car and let it fling the excess qd from the pad? or have i understood that wrong.

also i think i have been tackling too large an area with too much polish. I tend to go for 1/3 to 1/2 of a bonet at a time. SOund too much from reading this and other guides though?


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## blr123 (Oct 26, 2005)

Me and Dave tried this today and didn't get anywhere with it  

Although, we place the pad on the scrap panel, we didn't try it as mentined by jedi...........but we will next time for sure :thumb: 

Bryan


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

I tried this method on the GTI last week and it worked a treat.

A couple of sprays of QD on the pad, turn the rotary on to 700 rpm and warm up the pad on the panel until the pad is warm and the QD has worked it's way into the pad.

Then prime the pad with a generous cross of polish and the next hit of polish is down to just a small amount.

Worked very well for me.

I would tend to divide a bonnet into 1/8's


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## Finerdetails (Apr 30, 2006)

jedi-knight83 said:


> ive not used QD to prime the pad before
> 
> when it says to spray twice and then run at low speed for 30 seconds ish.. i presume you just do this away from the car and let it fling the excess qd from the pad? or have i understood that wrong.
> 
> also i think i have been tackling too large an area with too much polish. I tend to go for 1/3 to 1/2 of a bonet at a time. SOund too much from reading this and other guides though?


those areas sounds way too big for defect correction on some cars.

The Ibiza I did yest saw the bonnet worked on 12 sections....


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## jedi-knight83 (Aug 11, 2006)

ok... good to learn new methods. so i this is an area i need to work on.

So when you say divide the bonet up.. you just do this visually right? no tape or anything silly like that. And then just work like i normally do (900-1000-1200-1500 and back down) but on a smaller area with less polish.

do you then wipe off the polish or leave it on so you know which bits you have done and then remove when you have finished the panel


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## blr123 (Oct 26, 2005)

jedi-knight83 said:


> ok... good to learn new methods. so i this is an area i need to work on.
> 
> So when you say divide the bonet up.. you just do this visually right? no tape or anything silly like that. And then just work like i normally do (900-1000-1200-1500 and back down) but on a smaller area with less polish.
> 
> do you then wipe off the polish or leave it on so you know which bits you have done and then remove when you have finished the panel


You don't need tape visual is the way to go.

Also, speeds, I would loose the 1000rpm just 900, 1200, 1500 then work your way down from 1500 to 1200 job done :thumb:

Also, wipe down each area as you do it.

Bryan

PS Ian that's what we did but found even more splatter.....weird.....more R&D required I think LOL


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

This is just the method Steve finds works best for him, not everyone will find it works to their advantage, i for one use a different method but Steve's guide is a good one none the less


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## Finerdetails (Apr 30, 2006)

As Clark says, some will get to grips with the technique Stev has shared, others will not.

JK - maybe its time to practise some more before hitting the custie cars? Bais polishing rules, dont let it dry 

As I prodominately use Pinnacle gear the technique I use is similar, but not exact as the product has different characteristics.


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## jedi-knight83 (Aug 11, 2006)

young_guns said:


> As Clark says, some will get to grips with the technique Stev has shared, others will not.
> 
> JK - maybe its time to practise some more before hitting the custie cars? Bais polishing rules, dont let it dry
> 
> As I prodominately use Pinnacle gear the technique I use is similar, but not exact as the product has different characteristics.


Will be practicing all day tomorrow before my bros car goes to the scrap yard :thumb:

I dont think my technique is terrible and im happy with the results ive had thus far.... but there is always room for improvement.


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## Finerdetails (Apr 30, 2006)

good man!


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## L200 Steve (Oct 25, 2005)

Clark said:


> This is just the method Steve finds works best for him, not everyone will find it works to their advantage, i for one use a different method but Steve's guide is a good one none the less


Spot on Clark - Most of what I write is what works best for me, and not a ********** post on how a product should be used. Same goes for products - I use what I like using, and what I know will get me the result I'm aiming for.

Why do we spritz pads before use? - Most pads seem absorbent, they draw in the moisture from the polishes lubricant, causing the polish to dry out prematurely. I want my polish to stay moist long enough for me to get the best out of it, so spritz the pad as a form of sealer. We also finds that it helps to soften up the pad before use.

I find that with a nice soft seasoned pad, I can get the desired results quickly, without having to do 2 or 3 sets to load up the pad. :thumb:


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

As is mentioned above, we all have out own specific techniques for using the rotary polisher that many of us have honed on scrap panels until we are happy... I know myself I still spend a lot of time on scrap panels trying out new products and further honing my techniques and methods, trying out new approaches - some work, and some dont for me. But thats all part of the fun! 

For me, the areas I work by rotary are larger than those I work by PC - I generally divide the average bonnet into four, for harder paints into 6 - I have not yet needed to go any smaller area wise, as I have always had the desired defect correction from my pad/polish/method this way, but if i needed to make an area smaller then I would do. The key for me is thoroughly working a polish on the rotary to ensure you get the best from it.

Like Clark, my rotary technique differs from Steves in some respects and its also similar in others - but thats just because everyone is different, and we all have our own methods: if you were to line up the rotary users on this forum, you'd see we all have our own slightly different methods, but we all get the results. :thumb: Thats the great thing about this forum though is being able to share your techniques, try out other people's and see if you can improve your own. Long may this continue! :thumb:


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

Exactly,cos my technique also differs from Dave's lol!


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## L200 Steve (Oct 25, 2005)

Dave KG said:


> if you were to line up the rotary users on this forum, you'd see we all have our own slightly different methods,


True:thumb:


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