# Autoglym/ Super Resin, your views?



## georgey2011 (Oct 24, 2011)

Since ive been on here, ive seen an awful lot of people seem to really rock super resin amongst other autoglym products.

I too have used it over the years, and yes its an awesome product, but i found every car i used it on, it made it look showroom condition again, until the next wash, and the car was back to looking rough as it was before it was polished with the super resin.

I know its full of polymer fillers and what not, but is it more of a quick fix product, or is something that MUST be used in conjunction with a sealer/wax ?

I know a young few people who over the past 12 months have all passed tests and purchased cars from traders, the usual second hand £500 or so specials, and they looked absolutely stunning, until washed, and 2 out of 3 of them were highly dissapointed discovering scratches they knew werent there when they bought the car, all of these cars came with the obligatory autoglym paper floor mats and all had had a autoglym valet by the looks of it.

Seems to me most of the autoglym products are one hit wonders, you use them once, the car looks good once, wash it and your back to square one?

Since using dodo juice/poorboys stuff etc on my car the results are better, but more importantly more durable and longer lasting compared to Autoglym stuff?

Also tried autoglym ultra deep shine, and that coupled with its awful smell made my paintwork streaky and looked greasy.

Anyone else experienced this?


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## apcv41 (Aug 5, 2006)

SRP will need a wax/sealant over it to lock it in, as it offers little in terms of protection itself.


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## phantomx0_1 (Feb 6, 2012)

Never had an issue with auto glym to be honey and been using it for years. I have just used UDS there HD WAX covere with a coat of extra gloss protection and produced stunning results. I guess I depends how much time is spent on the car and the preperation prior to adding there products and condition of the paint. I find the auto glym stuff fantastic and have done for years. No complaints here and I have tried other products that are alot more expensive and for the extra cash are they really worth it? I'm not sure!


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## georgey2011 (Oct 24, 2011)

Might have just been me then, found other stuff so much more easier to use, rewarding and longer lasting


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## phantomx0_1 (Feb 6, 2012)

Auto glym results on my ST220

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=253436


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## trv8 (Dec 30, 2007)

You need to work SRP a bit to get the best results that it can offer. 
I found that used on it's own, it does offer some protection for about a month or there-about.

You get much better results if applied by DA :thumb:. 
A second coat applied lightly by hand to make most of it's filling abilities, let cure and gently buff off.
To lock your work in, either a coat (or 2) of EGP or HD Wax will give protection that will last a good few months :thumb:.


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## greenwagon (Dec 31, 2008)

Auto ultra deep sheen is ok and gives a nice finish topped with on darker cars but it is hard work to put on and buff off compared to CG 50/50 paste ,backlight and V7


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## toomanycitroens (Jan 14, 2011)

SRP and HD on mine.
Great value for money.
Simple to achieve great results.:thumb:
Sorry to hear your issues with it tbh.


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

Yeah, I'd agree to an extent... If you just wipe it on and wipe it off again, and then leave it... the "fillers" part is the only thing working for you, and will wash off.

Worked properly with a foam pad definitely brings up the applicator v. dirty and brightens up the paint by removing contaminants... that I do think lasts beyond the next wash... although I'd advocate a last stage protection product over the top to keep things at their best.

I did my Old dear's corsa with it last April, and coated with FK1000p paste sealant. Not, it's gone back to it's same existence of not being pampered since but still looks better than before I did it IMO.


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## Alex_225 (Feb 7, 2008)

I love SRP as well I must admit. It just does everything thing you'd want from a polish by hand.  

I will always apply a layer of wax to the car afterwards though.


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## tictap (Sep 15, 2010)

Only ever used srp followed by HD wax by hand, great results!! Just bought a das 6 pro so hopefully it'll look even better next time :lol:


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## Phil1971 (Sep 3, 2007)

Not an expert, but presumably as it's marketed as a polish, it's purposes is to clean/improve the appearance of the surface, rather than protect it. A wax or sealant must be applied to offer any long term protection. 

Agree that SRP is great at what it's intended to do, but am 'guilty' of using it as a "quick fix". 

A friend had a black Citroen Picasso that was going back to the lease company and needed to be 'inspected' for faults.

The day before they looked at it, I went over the car with SRP using my Meg DA and it came up a treat. No point waxing a car that he was only keeping for 1 more day....


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## organisys (Jan 3, 2012)

trv8 said:


> You need to work SRP a bit to get the best results that it can offer.
> I found that used on it's own, it does offer some protection for about a month or there-about.
> 
> You get much better results if applied by DA :thumb:.
> ...


All the above, and NEVER! over apply!


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

One tip with SRP is to let it fully cure before applying another layer (say 30 mins), you can also apply EGP without buffing the SRP.

If using EGP, very very thin layers are the key, imagine it costs a few hundred quid a bottle


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## JasonH20URF (Mar 30, 2011)

lowejackson said:


> One tip with SRP is to let it fully cure before applying another layer (say 30 mins), you can also apply EGP without buffing the SRP.
> 
> If using EGP, very very thin layers are the key, imagine it costs a few hundred quid a bottle


Use a "perfect microfibre" they are great and you now use hardly any product


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## Dingo2002 (Apr 4, 2007)

Its basically a filling glaze with very light polishing ability. You must seal or wax over the top or subsequent washes will removing the glazing oils and fillers and as such show the true condition of the paint underneath.


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## Chrisfin (Jun 27, 2011)

Many others have said the same, but it is a product that needs a wax/sealant. I use HD HD wax over the top and that seems pretty durable. It went on in October and is still beading nicely.


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## trv8 (Dec 30, 2007)

tictap said:


> Only ever used srp followed by HD wax by hand, great results!! Just bought a das 6 pro so hopefully it'll look even better next time :lol:


You will be suprised how much better SRP can be, when applied by a DA :thumb:.


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## Richf (Apr 26, 2008)

Dusty, chalky rubbish

Not a fan of srp


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## SKY (Sep 25, 2011)

Richf said:


> Dusty, chalky rubbish
> 
> Not a fan of srp


Then you are using too much product - a little goes a long way. :thumb:


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## Refined Detail (Nov 27, 2006)

The new revised version is very good, and I've never been a fan of it until now. I'm talking about the trade version Radiant Wax - which some people say is the same and others say is wax based whilst the retail one is polymer sealant based. I'm not too sure myself :lol:


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## derbigofast (Dec 6, 2011)

srp is a very rough polish i find too rough the best bet is to go with something like g3pro if your doing it buy hand as it breaks down into a very fine almost waxy polish then use the g3pro wax its great for that extra flake pop and there only £10 a bottle at halfords


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## Sirmally2 (Feb 28, 2011)

Richf said:


> Dusty, chalky rubbish
> 
> Not a fan of srp


Try the New Formula stuff bud... very little / no dust issues :thumb:


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## trv8 (Dec 30, 2007)

Richf said:


> Dusty, chalky rubbish
> 
> Not a fan of srp


:lol: I love it when people use products incorrectly and then rubbish the product .


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## Phil1971 (Sep 3, 2007)

trv8 said:


> You will be suprised how much better SRP can be, when applied by a DA :thumb:.


Found my pics using SRP with a DA as a quick fix....excellent stuff !!

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=180500&highlight=picasso


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## Big Buffer (Jan 1, 2011)

I love it for valeting it makes the worst car look half decent.
As above said i use with the da and get great results


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## Mr Concours (Mar 8, 2006)

Best tips for allying SRP I can give are-

1,Use a damp applicator

2,Don't use too much product

As someone else said this polish has a _very minor cut _but *lots of fillers*,so you might belive the swirls/rids ect are gone don't be decived!

In my experinace Klasse AIO/Carlack is a better comparative product,YMMV.


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## Mean & clean (Aug 19, 2007)

I think SRP is a little overrated, it doesn't work like a true polish. It conceals and and adds a false shine.

A proper polish will actually cut and remove oxidization, swirl marks etc and reveal the true clarity of the (piant) not some false gloss that doesn't last.

A wax or sealant should always go on after using any polish.


AutoGlym in general are OK I would say, certainly not the ultimate but not bad, some of their stuff is a little overpriced/overrated but products like Aqua Wax and Rapid Detailer are IMO unbeatable for the price bracket and convenience.


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## Johnr32 (Apr 25, 2010)

I think as a polish its pretty poor, as an aio though its one of the best products in the market because it does a pretty dam good job, available anywhere and cheaper compared to other 'fancy' products especially when it is on sale.


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## csjoh (May 10, 2011)

If you're going to machine polish your car, why not just use something that actually removes the swirls in the first place?

Megs Ultimate Compound is made to be used by hand or DA machine (but NOT rotary) and deliver stunning results - and the swirls are removed, not hidden as with SRP.


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## Paddy_R (Jan 10, 2007)

csjoh said:


> If you're going to machine polish your car, why not just use something that actually removes the swirls in the first place?
> 
> Megs Ultimate Compound is made to be used by hand or DA machine (but NOT rotary) and deliver stunning results - and the swirls are removed, not hidden as with SRP.


Because you can only machine polish out swirls so often as eventually you'll end up with no clear coat to polish.

I'm a big fan of SRP and have been for years. Recently bought the new version (with free microfibre  ) and am looking forward to trying it. Personally speaking on my own car I'm not a fan of full corrections, swirls are a fact of life. They will appear whether it be after 6 weeks or 6 months. I tend to do a minor enhancement followed by a filler heavy product, SRP, CG Glossworkz or SRP to get the flawless look then lock it in with a sealant or wax.

I've been guiltly of over using SRP in the past and it is very dusty when over used, when used correctly it's a fantastic product.


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## csjoh (May 10, 2011)

With a proper washing routine only light swirls will show, and those can be removed with fine polish, which takes off so little clear coat it's hardly noticeable. Most cars have enough clear to allow machine polishing for many, many years if looked well after.


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## puppag (Dec 14, 2011)

I rate AG SRP massively. Really good for the money. Use it all the time by hand.


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## Alan H (Jun 28, 2009)

I'm a fan of SRP. If used correctly it works very well at hiding minor imperfections.

If working by hand I've found that using a damp, autoglym polish applicator works very well. I've found this to be very economical too. To do half a roof panel you only need a 5 pence size blob of SRP. This reduces the "too much" product problem.


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## dann2707 (Mar 25, 2011)

I love srp!


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## President Swirl (Oct 23, 2011)

For me, it's a must for chammy masters and pro's alike. Just don't forget to top it with a good wax.


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## csjoh (May 10, 2011)

The average car has about a total of 120 microns of paint on it, including primer, base and clear. Typically 100 microns of that is the clear coat.

With a heavy compound you'd typically remove about 6 microns in a session, leaving you with a pristine finish. After this one heavy polishing, you would only need to do a light polishing twice year, which would remove 1 micron at most. The remaining 94 microns would then last through light machine polishing for 47 years, given careful washing.

Even if the light machine polishing removes 2 microns, you'd have enough clear coat for 23 years.

Are you going to keep your car for that long?

Didn't think so.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

I don't like it to be honest. For something I would consider a cleaner glaze (let's face it, that's how people use it), it's looks are very average.


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## Skimask (Jan 7, 2012)

I used Super resin on an extremely faded red Corrado, it brought it up superb - it was red again!

It did last a while. As above probably much better if it is sealed, it should last a whole lot longer.


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## Sti_Brumby (Aug 19, 2010)

I hate it, It's chalk in a sealant. Theres better options out there that give better results as a aio.
clint.


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## kh904 (Dec 18, 2006)

csjoh said:


> The average car has about a total of 120 microns of paint on it, including primer, base and clear. Typically 100 microns of that is the clear coat.
> 
> With a heavy compound you'd typically remove about 6 microns in a session, leaving you with a pristine finish. After this one heavy polishing, you would only need to do a light polishing twice year, which would remove 1 micron at most. The remaining 94 microns would then last through light machine polishing for 47 years, given careful washing.
> 
> ...


But don't you get clearcoat failure if the clearcoat level is below a certain level of microns? That's what i heard but i could be mistaken!


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Its a great product,looking forward to trying the new improved one.


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## JasonH20URF (Mar 30, 2011)

ba da dat da da im lovin it


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## Alan H (Jun 28, 2009)

I used SRP on a Fiesta ST at the weekend. I worked it in well with an Autoglym applicator sponge (I think using one of these is a must with it IMO), and the appearance of swirls was more than halved (by comparing an untreated panel)with just one application.

I wish I'd taken a picture of it. The difference was astounding to be honest.


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## R0B (Aug 27, 2010)

Good product,nothing more to add to that.


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## Edstrung (Apr 6, 2009)

I rate it as a stalwart personally.

Can someone answer why you should NOT use it with a rotary though?


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## csjoh (May 10, 2011)

Edstrung said:


> I rate it as a stalwart personally.
> 
> Can someone answer why you should NOT use it with a rotary though?


Because it's not made for rotaries and won't work properly when exposed to the heat a rotary generates.


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## martyp (Oct 24, 2006)

I will add no more than:

I Love Autoglym.

SRP + EGP is a killer combo.


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## Duke Wellington (Dec 1, 2009)

Edstrung said:


> I rate it as a stalwart personally.
> 
> Can someone answer why you should NOT use it with a rotary though?


I don't understand why you ask this, it can be used on a rotary machine. Autoglym recommend using a wool pad when polishing SRP with a rotary machine.



csjoh said:


> Because it's not made for rotaries and won't work properly when exposed to the heat a rotary generates.


I can't agree on that, I haven't experienced any heat problem; my favourite way of using SRP is by rotary. My set-up for polishing SRP is a rotary polisher with loads of torque, the Makita 9227CB, Gloss It 125mm backing plate and the 6.5" black soft pad from ValetPRO. Not tried it with a wool pad, so I can't comment on the AG pad recommendation.


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## alexbuckingham (Jan 30, 2012)

I find SRP to be pretty good. Used it on previous cars with metallic paint to good effect.

However, I hand-polished this weekend on my flat black (non-metallic) BMW and the results were absolutely outstanding! All swirls removed, the somewhat iffy dull area created by Sytner's. Absolutely brilliant. Didn't have time to do a new wax layer over the top, but should be good for a few weeks until I get time to do one. It's not going to hurt without in the short-term - Or to put it another way, "wash" + "SRP" has to be way better than "wash" alone!


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## shaqs77 (Jun 10, 2008)

i love it. i use always before wax.


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