# Garage Floor Advice Needed



## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

guys, the concrete floor in my garage is in a poor state - cracks, bits missing etc.

now, i am off all next week with the kids and was wondering what product is best to use. i know that i will have to fill the deep cracks first but am not sure what product is gonna be best as the floor isnt level.

any advice is appreciated :thumb:


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## cmillsjoe (Jun 20, 2012)

you can buy bags of self level , just mix it up and pour


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## wylie coyote (Jul 15, 2007)

As above then seal or paint it (or both if you want).:thumb:


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## ChuckH (Nov 23, 2006)

As above buy some Latex self levelling compound and pour on.. Its best to trowel it onto place but it will level itself off...


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## woodys (Dec 20, 2010)

Agree with above, but here's a tip for you. Although self levelling if anything like stuff I used last you still had to work it with a float, saves a lot of messing about if you can make one up with a long handle like a broom so to speak,saves a load of grovelling on the floor etc. can make one easy enough with a decent piece of flat wood nailed onto a handle or piece of 2x2 etc and strengthen it up to enable you to drag the mix into the area you want it to work. If you have bad flaking of old concrete get rid of as much and re- fill it like everything the more you prep the better it'll be.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

thanks guys. i take it the stuff available in wickes will do?

this ones latex: http://www.wickes.co.uk/cementone-cempolatex-25kg/invt/226518/

this one isnt but can withstand vehiclar traffic?: http://www.wickes.co.uk/cementone-cempolay-ultra-s-25kg/invt/226521/

which ones better?


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

I'd go for the one that can take vehicles. Normal self levelling stuff can be quite 'soft & chalky' and can wear away if it's not covered by something more durable.
(Shame it's out of stock  )


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

there's a buildbase opposite wickes and they have some in stock, although its a few quid dearer


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## ChuckH (Nov 23, 2006)

salsheikh said:


> there's a buildbase opposite wickes and they have some in stock, although its a few quid dearer


Go for the better stuff !! I cant remember which one it is but they all share one thing in common.. The darker stuff is better ! It will resist heavy traffic and will need doing only once !...........


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## ozzy (Jan 1, 2007)

It it was me i would use this stuff much better, has fibres in it to make it stronger, and gan be applied 2" thick if need be, ordinary self smoothing is only around 2 to 4mm thick
http://www.tiletown.co.uk/default.aspx?pageID=971

I am not saying get it from here, shop around and only pay around £15 a bag.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

ozzy said:


> It it was me i would use this stuff much better, has fibres in it to make it stronger, and gan be applied 2" thick if need be, ordinary self smoothing is only around 2 to 4mm thick
> http://www.tiletown.co.uk/default.aspx?pageID=971
> 
> I am not saying get it from here, shop around and only pay around £15 a bag.


can i really use for that product in my garage - its normally used for floors that will have tiles laid on it.


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

salsheikh said:


> can i really use for that product in my garage - its normally used for floors that will have tiles laid on it.


No you can't, it will need something over the top to protect it.


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## ozzy (Jan 1, 2007)

squiggs said:


> No you can't, it will need something over the top to protect it.


I can not see why not? is the same as any levelling compound only stronger! i have laid hundreds of bags of the stuff!
That said surely levelling compound is designed to be covered over, i am not arguing with the fact you can not, as i don't know why??

Edit...weber.floor flex is not intended as a wearing surface so the final finishing layer should be applied as soon as possible after drying has completed. If it is to be left for prolonged periods of time the surface should be suitably protected.

now there is some thing i did not know!

use as std levelling compound on the top?


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

Ozzy, just sounds like more work!

I spoke to the chaps at buildbase and they have recommended the Cempolay Ultra so i got the last 5 bags...gonna be a busy few days.

I was thinking of making a frame (glue/screw it to the floor) and using the stuff to raise the floor level a bit to give it a good thickness. I dont want it too thin in places were it may crack off. once its dried i can remove the frame and then use a cement mixture to slope/feather edge off the new floor.

i will take some pics if i aint covered in the stuff!


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## ozzy (Jan 1, 2007)

salsheikh said:


> Ozzy, just sounds like more work!
> 
> I spoke to the chaps at buildbase and they have recommended the Cempolay Ultra so i got the last 5 bags...gonna be a busy few days.
> 
> ...


That sounds good stuff, but i think you may need more than 5 bags buy the sounds of it!
Get a picture up of the floor as it is now, so we can see what you are up against?


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

wild card!

I am having new slabs put down on my drive...would i be better off having these laid on my garage floor? I know it sounds extreme but could this be a better solution as there does appear to be damp coming through the floor?

even at applying 10mm of the ultra levelling compound its gonna take around 10+ bags at £20 odd quid plus labour (£70) so i'm looking at approx £270-£300 whereas I'm paying £2k for 60sq m for my drive. The garage floor is 17.5sq m.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

I started a thread in the garage section as i'm in the process of refurbing my garage.

I have an uneven concrete floor and it gets damp too. I suspect the base has been laid without a damp proof membrane under the concrete as the garage was built back in the 60's. I get damp patches on the floor at times and a white fluffy type of mould grows on the floor.

I have given the base one coat of Wickes Damp Proof Membrane Liquid and as soon as the weather improves I'll be giving it another few coats. It cost about £38 for 20-25 ltrs which is more than enough to cover the single garage floor a good few times.

I'm then going to use the Cempolay Ultra that you have just bought as its designed to withstand vehicular traffic (says so on the bag) and once I have the floor level then i'm laying some Mototile interlocking garage floor tiles.

If you're having damp problems the you could try some of the liquid DPC from Wickes.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=300007


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

thanks for that. how long before you can apply the ultra compound on the dpm liquid?

unfortunately my garage isnt fully empty like yours, mine has fixed shelving and a lot of junk has accrued!
i will have a look in wickes on my wayhome from work. i plan to put the PVA glue down on sunday and was gonna get the Ultra compound down on monday morning...


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/241218/?source=123_75

its says allow 16 hours or overnight so i will get some tonight and lay it first thing sat morning and will aply the PVA on monday morning before the guys turn up to do the job.

no need for seperate primer...

what brush did you use to apply the product and how thick did you apply it.

also i found this:

http://www.wickes.co.uk/cementone-liquid-damp-proof-membrane-25l/invt/164196/ 
Coverage on floors is 3 - 3.25 m2 per 2.5 litre bucket per coat

wickes dpm liquid - Coverage: 1-2m2 per litre


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

salsheikh said:


> http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/241218/?source=123_75
> 
> its says allow 16 hours or overnight so i will get some tonight and lay it first thing sat morning and will aply the PVA on monday morning before the guys turn up to do the job.
> 
> ...


I used a soft bristle floor sweeping brush from Screwfix to apply it. The brush is a bin job once you're finished. I also bought a soft flexi bucket from Wickes, poured some of the Liquid DPM into the bucket and then cracked on using the floor brush. (head was about £4 from Screw fix and a pack of brush shafts were arout £5)

The liquid is quite thin and runny so it doesn't go on very thick at all and spreads out pretty well.

How big is your garage?


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

my garage is 8m x 6m but the floor area accessible is 7m x 5m

gonna put a border down so will just pour the stuff in and spread it.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

salsheikh said:


> my garage is 8m x 6m but the floor area accessible is 7m x 5m
> 
> gonna put a border down so will just pour the stuff in and spread it.


Dont pour too much down as it spreads quite far. I think I probably used about 5 or 6 ltrs to cover a single garage floor (5m x 3m)

A few thin coats are probably better than one thick one and bear in mind it wont dry too quick in this weather.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

the weathers only getting colder over the next few days...
will see if i can lay my border down tomorrow and apply one thin coat and maybe another one saturday.

only one worry though...i hope the self levelling compound adhere's to the dpm liquid.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

salsheikh said:


> the weathers only getting colder over the next few days...
> will see if i can lay my border down tomorrow and apply one thin coat and maybe another one saturday.
> 
> only one worry though...i hope the self levelling compound adhere's to the dpm liquid.


Wickes do a primer (its a 2.5ltrs Green container) for applying under their self leveling compound. Not sure if it'll be required or not though with the DPM liquid and Cempolay?


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## Pogzwinder (Feb 18, 2013)

To make level or give a concrete sub-floor a nice smooth finish you will have to carry out a few different stages of work. My work involves preparing floors for the laying of contract vinyl flooring, or just for forklift trucks and people etc to go over. So I come across various problems most days. 
Firstly speak to a local flooring store, ideally a shop who deals in commercial flooring they can offer advice and will be able to supply everything you require. 
First job is to prime the floor, I use Ardex as a brand product for all flooring my work (www.ardex.co.uk) for info. So I would recommend P51 primer, pva will also do as a basic primer. Apply this with a paint roller on a broom handle (saves your back and knees).

For damp issues you then need to a apply a dpm coat, DPM 1C or 1CR are both 2 part/1 coat DPM and moisture suppressants. Again this can be applied with a roller, be quick as it heats up and starts to cure once it is mixed. If you do not need to go onto the next stage which is levelling/smoothing the floor, you can leave this DPM as a finish or even paint it. This is an epoxy type finish and gives a tough finish. It is available as either a clear coat or a grey coloured finish.

For the levelling side you require a good latex screed, I prefer the NA (non ammonia) range as it does not have that strong overpowering ammonia smell. But any style of screed will do, latex makes it stronger but it is personal preference. You mix it up in a bucket pour it out and spread over the floor, for this you can use a straight edged trowel if it is a relatively small area. The mix should be like water and find its own level. If you are doing a large area it is worth buying a "spiked" roller (£20/£25) these are great for spreading the screed and getting a nice smooth finish. Ideally screed can only be used to 3mm/4mm in thickness, anything thicker may crack if subjected to a heavy point load. Something like a caster with a lot of weight on it. Anything thicker than 4mm will require either a couple of layers or even the use of sand/cement. You can use granite chippings in the screed to get a thicker mix but you would still need another coat (without granite) over the top to give a smooth finish.

You should apply a finish to the cured screed to protect it, floor paint or similar will also make it easier to keep clean. Where damp is not a major issue we apply a clear coat DPM to the finished floor to give a nice shinny finish that you can drive a forklift on. 
Sorry for the long explanation, I hope it makes sense. A good builders merchant should also be able to supply similar products to the Ardex ones.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

thanks for the info - made a lot of sense!
where do you get the clear dpm liquid from?

i made my frame for the garage floor and cleaned it before applying one coat of the dpm liquid. i purchased a 25ltr bucket from Wickes and have used 2/3rds.

Before










after










should i apply 1 more coat (thin coat) before apply the Cempolay Ultra self levelling compound on Moday or should i leave it?


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

I'd think you'd be best to apply another thin coat. Its not going to do any harm.

I gave mine a 2nd coat yesterday and still have about 1/2 the bucket of DPM left. Think i'll do mine again next week and then maybe go with the Cempolay later next week.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

i forgot to buy a spare brush...99p stores here i come!
hardly got anything on the marigolds so the wife should be happy!


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

salsheikh said:


> i forgot to buy a spare brush...99p stores here i come!
> hardly got anything on the marigolds so the wife should be happy!


I just left the old brush in the flexi bucket with some DPM in the bottom and the brush was fine. Its been in there for over a week now and still perfectly useable.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

dumped the brush in and covered most of it with the lid...
forgot to mention i did get some bubbles where it was spread a bot too much so 2nd coat should cover up any issues.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

ok, so today i noticed there were a lot of holes - probably caused by bubbles but the 
2nd coat went on really easily and spread more than the first. some places were it had built up was still soft and tacky so i am hoping this doesnt cuase a problem with the cemploy ultra tomorrow as the builder has been booked.
only c o c k up and was totally my fault was...i left the radio on so had to walk on the dpm to switch it off, then i forgot the wide roll of tape i needed to box a few things up so had to brush over these bits.

the back door of the garage is open to let it dry out - i wasnt sure wether or not to put the heater on to help it dry out - this means walking accross the floor again


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

I gave mine a second coat a few days ago and it was pretty windy outside so I wedged the side door of the garage open and then opened the front door about 6 inches off the ground and it dried pretty quickly. 

My only problem is I dont want to leave the car outside overnight so I've been sticking it away last thing at night and after parking it on the floor after the first coat, the tyres lifted small patches of the DPM off the floor. I've tried to park it in a slightly different position after giving the floor the second coat so will see how that is next time I take the car out. 

Keep me posted on how you get on with the Cempolay 

Are you just putting the cempolay straight onto the DPM or you applying a primer first?


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

i left the side door open and most of it had dried, only places where there was too much it was still wet.

i have applied a coat of pva glue on it today and it pretty much mixed with the 2nd coat - well it went grey/brownish.

the cempolay will be applied tomorrow...if the builder turns up!
as its approx 19sqm and i dont wanna do it myself and get stuck in a rut and get knackered in the process!
plus, i dont think the 5 bags are gonna be enough, thankfully there is a travis perkins less than 100m from me that has atleast 10 bags in stock

from what turned out to be a £100 job its probably gonna cost me a lot more.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

well, the 5 bags i bought werent enough so bought another 3 from travis perkins and they wanted £35 a bag! i told the woman at the counter that i got them from buildbase for £25 and she gave me a discount - cant beleive they were gonna rip me off! i spoke to my builder and he said they always try to rip you ff so always go in with a lower than usual quote!

as the first layers isnt enough, the builder is gonna come back later to see if he can apply another layer later today...if not then /thursday/friday.

this is how it looks currently


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

Looking good - how thick was your first layer?


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

It varies, some places a few mm and some a lot more. Deffo requires another layer to level out. Still very wet in a lot of places. I suppose that's to be expected due to the weather


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

Let me know how long it takes to dry (if you dont mind) as that will give me a rough idea when I can do mine.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

well, i checked the floor at 7pm and in places it still had water on the surface and was damp to touch so i didnt risk walking on it. i will leave it a full day before applying another layer.

once thing i did notice was there was an area which has a bit sticking out approx 1"x12"
if i get the chance i will try and chip it away as i dont think the 2nd layer will cover it

i dunno if i should have used wickes high build self levelling coating (upto 50mm) first and then the cempolay ultra?

how long before i should apply floor paint on it?


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

I've never used self leveling compound of any type before so cant help you on that one.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

today, most places were dry with a few covered in water.

here are a few pics where the old floor protudes the new layer










in this pic i need to take a lump hammer to try and break down the high bits that stick out (2nd layer will not cover it otherwise)

















i have noticed a lot of pin holes in one area but hope the top layer will cover these. dont have access to a spiked roller as this would have helped.

as i'm having the drive done the top layer will not happen until friday at the earliest.

i will paint the floor on monday and will try and give it a 2nd coat on tuesday.


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

2nd coat went on yesterday morning and it has gone off much quicker this time, i have a few puddles of water but most of it has dried out. i will wait a few days before applying a coat of floor paint.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

salsheikh said:


> 2nd coat went on yesterday morning and it has gone off much quicker this time, i have a few puddles of water but most of it has dried out. i will wait a few days before applying a coat of floor paint.


cool - looking forward to seeing the finished pics:thumb:


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

i got some concrete sealer and applied this today - this is supposd to act as a primer so i hope to apply some floor paint (got it for £5 in their staff sale): http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/paint/0494045/


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

there maybe a change of plan...i've only gone and bought these after some advice from another member who did his garage floor.

BLACK INTERLOCKING EVA SOFT FOAM EXERCISE FLOOR MATS GYM GARAGE HOUSE OFFICE MAT: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

floor mats have now been laid and i am happy with the finish and so far the mats seem good as with the weight of the car they havent lost shape. when it comes time to use axle stands i can always use a bit of mdf to stop the 3 legs cutting through the mat.
glad i had the floor levelled first


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## impster (May 2, 2007)

looking good.


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## Doc943 (Mar 27, 2011)

Nice job mate


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## olliecampbell (Jan 30, 2007)

Looks nice. Do you sit a car in there normally? Would be interesting to see if they deform over time...


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## salsheikh (Jul 5, 2010)

olliecampbell said:


> Looks nice. Do you sit a car in there normally? Would be interesting to see if they deform over time...


hi mate, my car is parked in their everynight. in regards to deformity - maybe Impster can answer that one as he has these fitted too and recommended them to me. At a cost of approx £100 to do the whole floor its worthwhile.


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