# A few questions after my first ONR wash



## Jorm (Aug 9, 2009)

For the past hour I have been searching the forum to answer my questions, and I'm not having much luck!  so any help would be greatly appreciated :thumb:

Today was the first day that I have tried ONR, and although my car is clean it has left me with a few questions....

*My technique:*

First of all, I pre-sprayed half of the car at a time with a 2l pump sprayer filled with tap water and 60ml of ONR. I then had a another spray bottle filled with 1l water to 30ml ONR which I used as a second pre-spray, let to soak further before washing with the sponge.
I used 1 bucket filled about 10 litres water and 40ml ONR (re-filled half way due to the water being dirty) and a B&Q Grout Sponge.

I washed with the sponge, not applying to much pressure and then dried. Once the car was 'clean' I went around with FK425 and a MF.

*Now to the questions....*

1: Whilst my car is considerably cleaner than it was before, the ONR didn't seem to clean the rear of my car like I would expect normally with the traditional method. Its hard to explain but the dirt just didn't seem to want to shift (even with numerous pre-sprays), and even now there are spots- bit like tar I suppose.... but i've never had that happen before with the foam & 2bm  Am I expecting too much from ONR?

2: Since last washing the car I had done alot of motorway miles, and as a result I had lots of dirt 'streaking' up the bonnet and on the front bumper.
The ONR wash didn't seem to shift these either to the same standard I am used too (even with numerous pre-sprays and passes) 

3: And finally I wasn't too impressed with ONR on the wheels either, as it didn't shift dirt as quickly and easily as I am used to with AB Very Cherry.
I don't have access to any kind of hose/pw where I am at the moment, but would it be possible to clean the wheels the traditional way with brushes but use a pump sprayer filled water to rinse, and a quick going over with ONR? 

On a lighter note, once I learn to use ONR more effectively I think it will become my go to product to wash my car! Its fantastic to be able to wash my car where previously I just couldn't due to not have all the equipment.


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

For similar reasons to what you have found, I keep ONR for car shows etc when water is at a premium - any other time give me a hose and a few buckets any day of the week. I like it on cars that aren't very dirty, and it handles them well, but any more than moderate muck and I'd rather not bother with ONR.


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## priceworth (Jul 16, 2010)

It looks like you need tar remover rather than shampoo mate. If you haven't washed it from long time it's normal that there's some tar. About the wheels, clean them perfectly, seal them with something like fk1000p and then you can wash your wheels with onr leaving them spotless (onr is not a wheel cleaner).

And if you want you can try with QD ONR dillution (1 part of onr to 20 parts of water 1 to 20) before washing and let it soak for good time (even if you leave it 20 mins that will be fine in that weather). But usualy i dillute it to 1 to 60 for pre soak and it works fine for me.

Also last time when there was some stubborn dirt i added some G101 in the onr presoak sollution (the onr solution was 1 to 60 and then i put about 1 to 4 apc in the onr solution) then this left me with spotless finish when i left it soak for good 5-10 mins, but dont forget this *might* strip any waxes.


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## Jorm (Aug 9, 2009)

Thanks for your responses.

Just to clarify: My car (including wheels) was clayed, lime primed and then sealed with FK1000P only about a month back when we had a break in the bad weather. And the car was washed about 2/3 weeks ago and it came up spotless.

Here is what my car looked like before washing: 









It just seems i'm either doing something wrong with ONR or i'm expecting too much perhaps.


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

First off, sorry to hear that you've had difficulties with ONR. 

From what I can gather there's a protective layer of FK1000p applied about a 
month ago, when ambient temperatures outside were struggling to get above 
zero. This may be the cause, in that FK1000p in ambient temps of 60degF or 
above needs at least 20 minutes curing time before buffing and layering. With
temps near to freezing, it's possible that this curing did not take place. The
instructions on the tin don't make the curing time clear and it's possible that
the sealant hasn't properly bonded with the paint.

IIRC, the weather was not only cold in EA, but humidity was quite high too. 
That would only exacerbate the problem. I certainly remember getting a QD
application to a point of dryness took a lot longer than usual. Personally, I'd
not open a hard (carnauba) wax tin in temps below 55-60degF and possibly a 
bit higher than that with a sealant like FK1000p. 

People seem to have better luck with Opti-Seal (OOS) in colder weather and
it's certainly very much easier to apply. It's not a sealant that will layer and
it'll probably dissolve any wax present, but 2 thin coats are recommended
to make sure of full and even coverage.

Regards,
Steve


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## Jorm (Aug 9, 2009)

That could well be possible, and could explain why the dirt wouldn't shift very easily. I did wonder whether the fk1000p would cure in the cold temps, but the beading afterwards seemed normal so I thought nothing more of it.

I will definitely give ONR another go but perhaps I'll wait until after I've given the car a full detail. 

Thanks


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

Jorm said:


> ...and could explain why the dirt wouldn't shift very easily


Well, a proper seal of 2 coats of FK1000p usually means than dirt will come 
off with no more than a gentle swipe with your little finger, even months 
after first being applied. If you're experiencing some (unusual) difficulties
with ONR, especially after a pre-spray, then I'm afraid the answer is that 
you're expecting too much from your sealant application rather than the ONR.

The optimum months for applying FK1000p on wheels are March / April and 
September / October; any more than 2 applications a year is a waste. If 
you're planning a detail before March or April then I'd recommend the OOS as 
your sealant. It'll certainly give some bling to your car's colour, probably
better than the FK1000p does...

Regards,
Steve


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## pete5570 (Jun 11, 2010)

I use ONR as my sole wash system since i started using it last June, it's my product of the year along with Optimum car wax. When my car is really dirty, i just give the panel a spray with ONR diluted to the same ratio as my wash mix, let it dwell for a short time and then wash and dry as you would using ONR. If you wish you can go over it with a QD of your choice,to give it a bit more bling. I started using ONR after a full detail, so the car was fully protected,this obviously helps no end. As you said, give the car a full detail and then use the ONR, you will see how well it perform then.


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## m33porsche (Jun 10, 2007)

I had the same experience with my first onr wash, it left the sills and rear end "grimey" which was a particular hassle to remove. I left the experience unconvinced. 

With regard to protection mine had full zaino treatment 3 months ago so this shouldn't have been an issue. If this is the cause then it would marginalise the conditions of use so much as to make it redundant.

I think for me I'll continue to use ONR as a QD during the drying stage to help with removing water blotches you get with pat drying and leave it at that.


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