# Stop Condensation in Attic Bedroom



## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

I’ve a slight problem with condensation in my attic bedroom. I’ve a oil filled radiator but find that it’s too warm and is effective at warming the room however it doesn’t maintain the heat unless left on low but it dries the air. Even though I’ve both windows on a latch to allow air flow.

I was thinking of just buying a dehumidifier but I was also considering the

Philips 3-in-1 Air Purifier - Fan and Space heater - Pure and cozy warm air - Purifies rooms up to 42 m² - HEPA & Active Carbon filters - (AMF220/35) https://amzn.eu/d/i1mxLW4

Or a Dehumidifier by EBac









3850e Dehumidifier | White Portable Home Dehumidifier


The Ebac 3850e Dehumidifier is guaranteed to eliminate condensation, damp and mould problems.



www.ebac.com






As I would want something that solves the problem and is built to last. I am also open to other suggestions.


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## R_macus (2 mo ago)

If you have heat on and a window on latch, then a dehumidifier is the only option. The attic may not have been insulated behind the plasterboard when built?


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

That maybe a point. I’m not sure if it was insulated. It’s had a new roof. They have just put new membrane on by the looks of it, I was looking for an all in one unit as those oiled filled radiators are very expensive to run.


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## R_macus (2 mo ago)

It might be moisture from somewhere else in the house ? A dehumidifier does no harm though, but how do you heat the room otherwise. The two you linked are fairly pricey. Would a dry master like this maybe suffice. But it requires an install.

Drimaster DRI-ECO-HC Condensation Ventilation Loft Unit (Hall Control) - Latest Model : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Drimaster Eco Heat Positive Input Ventilation Unit with Integral 400W Heater by Nuaire : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

I wouldn’t be able to do that option unfortunately that you’ve linked. I don’t mind if it’s expensive as long as it works and serves its purpose.


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

I’m just not sure what I could buy to solve the problem.


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## grunty-motor (Aug 11, 2016)

RDB85 said:


> I’m just not sure what I could buy to solve the problem.


I am guessing you only get the condensation when you let the room cool again?

is it on the walls or a certain part of the room or just the windows?


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

A dehumidifier will help up to point but with the weather we have now the air inside your house will likely be quite dry and a dehumidifier would likely shut off at maybe 40%RH; it may well be lower than that already. If you do go for a dehumidifier, there are basically two types, the compressor type and the desiccant type. With the compressor type the energy is used to drive the compressor and the fan. The compressor will cycle on and off and you get a audible clunk when a compressor kicks in. With the desiccant type the energy is used on heating a water absorbing material and also for the fan. Desiccant types do not have the audible clunk that compressor types have. Desiccants will use more power than a compressor type but the big bonus is that they will output quite a bit of heat. That’s undesirable in Summer but if you intend to use this to keep your windows dry in Winter then the heating action is very desirable. We have one on our upstairs landing and it really does add warmth to the upstairs whilst keeping the windows clear; but when the humidity is low indoors it just blows air until the humidity rises. I've turned ours off this week due to this and we just have a quick flick with the Karcher window vacuum to pick up any small amounts of condensation.


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## RaceGlazer (Jan 10, 2007)

I've been using, advising on and selling dehumidifiers for almost 20 years.
A compressor machine wont work in temperatures below 4 degrees as the cooled surface the air flows over turns to ice. Only those will hot gas defrost can recover from this but they spend a lot of time when its cold doing just this, not dehumidifying. 
A Desiccant machine works at all temperatures and will remove its stated maximum capacity of water, provided its in the air, at any temperature. Its output air is much warmer than input - 13 degrees in the case of the Meaco units we sell/use. 
Simply warming the air with heaters will only make condensation on windows worse as the glass is very cold. Removing the moisture from the air prevents this as there is nothing/much less to condense. But I appreciate you want to keep the room warm for its occupants. 
The units we sell have an in-built humidistat and are controllable on either a timer or auto whereby they switch off when the desired humidity level (55% in most cases) is reached, checking the air hourly in case they need to come back on. Your only issue is what to do with the condensate - the tanks are quite small, so we supply free 25L barrels when you cant pipe the water outside (we also sell hose by the metre). 
Feel free to PM me for more advice. I hope this is useful for you and folks who also wish to preserve cars etc in their garages.


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

grunty-motor said:


> I am guessing you only get the condensation when you let the room cool again?
> 
> is it on the walls or a certain part of the room or just the windows?


That’s it just on the windows.


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

So would something like the EBac. Be okay?


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

RaceGlazer said:


> I've been using, advising on and selling dehumidifiers for almost 20 years.
> A compressor machine wont work in temperatures below 4 degrees as the cooled surface the air flows over turns to ice. Only those will hot gas defrost can recover from this but they spend a lot of time when its cold doing just this, not dehumidifying.
> A Desiccant machine works at all temperatures and will remove its stated maximum capacity of water, provided its in the air, at any temperature. Its output air is much warmer than input - 13 degrees in the case of the Meaco units we sell/use.
> Simply warming the air with heaters will only make condensation on windows worse as the glass is very cold. Removing the moisture from the air prevents this as there is nothing/much less to condense. But I appreciate you want to keep the room warm for its occupants.
> ...


I have the small Meaco on are landing last 2 years (with 5 year guarantee ) can't fault it at all....but required a screw fix 1 down stairs to dry are laundry BLYSS WDH-316DB 16LTR DEHUMIDIFIER 2 year warranty brilliant also.....but both above out of stock !!


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

RaceGlazer said:


> I've been using, advising on and selling dehumidifiers for almost 20 years.
> A compressor machine wont work in temperatures below 4 degrees as the cooled surface the air flows over turns to ice. Only those will hot gas defrost can recover from this but they spend a lot of time when its cold doing just this, not dehumidifying.
> A Desiccant machine works at all temperatures and will remove its stated maximum capacity of water, provided its in the air, at any temperature. Its output air is much warmer than input - 13 degrees in the case of the Meaco units we sell/use.
> Simply warming the air with heaters will only make condensation on windows worse as the glass is very cold. Removing the moisture from the air prevents this as there is nothing/much less to condense. But I appreciate you want to keep the room warm for its occupants.
> ...


What Meaco Unit would you recommend?


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

RDB85 said:


> So would something like the EBac. Be okay?


I had one 10 years back went wrong twice, so expensive to buy...


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> I had one 10 years back went wrong twice, so expensive to buy...


They are expensive. U.K. made apparently. I’m just looking to buy something that would last.

Ive seen this on Amazon:

MeacoDry Arete® One 12L dual Dehumidifier & HEPA air purifier for regular sized homes - prevents damp and condensation - ultra-quiet - low energy laundry mode- night mode - five year warranty https://amzn.eu/d/5idatiK


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Have a look at the Ecoair DD1. I've had mine over 5 years and its been great. (So long as you don't mind the blue light that is.) Ecoair quote extraction rates at 20C & *60%RH* whereas other manufacturers may quote 20C & *80%RH*. They extract more moisture the higher the humidity (RH); Ecoair use a more realistic figure so bear that in mind. 👍


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

GeeWhizRS said:


> Have a look at the Ecoair DD1. I've had mine over 5 years and its been great. (So long as you don't mind the blue light that is.) Ecoair quote extraction rates at 20C & *60%RH* whereas other manufacturers may quote 20C & *80%RH*. They extract more moisture the higher the humidity (RH); Ecoair use a more realistic figure so bear that in mind. 👍


That looks good. It’s got some good reviews on Amazon.


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## [email protected] (Dec 22, 2021)

RDB85 said:


> What Meaco Unit would you recommend?


I just got a small 12lt job....something that suits your budget...keep away from the hep filter ones, as the filters are very expensive !!


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

Thats the window in its current state. I didn’t put the oil filled radiator on as the room wasn’t that cold. The blinds are always down as they no longer stay up.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

I think you're always going to have a problem with condensation if you have a blind so close to the window like that. You're trapping cold air against the glass.


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## RaceGlazer (Jan 10, 2007)

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morethanpolish.com


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

GeeWhizRS said:


> I think you're always going to have a problem with condensation if you have a blind so close to the window like that. You're trapping cold air against the glass.


They were fitted when the loft was done. Nothing I can do other than buy new blinds.


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## Andy from Sandy (May 6, 2011)

I have blinds up at two of my windows and they are always closed. I get zero condensation. One of the rooms is not particularly well heated either.
To my mind there must be some fundamental reason for condensation and having to run dehumidifiers seems like kludge not a fix. It could be the place wasn't built properly with a breach in a vapour barrier or insulation not fitted correctly. Apparently that expanding foam is a major cause for concern.

I think a proper survey would be a good starting point.


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## slim_boy_fat (Jun 23, 2006)

I've just bought a Meaco D88L, it certainly pulls moisture from the air.  

£200 from their website through Amazon. Very happy with its performance so far.


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

Andy from Sandy said:


> I have blinds up at two of my windows and they are always closed. I get zero condensation. One of the rooms is not particularly well heated either.
> To my mind there must be some fundamental reason for condensation and having to run dehumidifiers seems like kludge not a fix. It could be the place wasn't built properly with a breach in a vapour barrier or insulation not fitted correctly. Apparently that expanding foam is a major cause for concern.
> 
> I think a proper survey would be a good starting point.


You could be right. The loft windows are around 20 years old. But the seals around the glass is fine and there are seals on the inside which meet the roof which are brand new and don’t appear to have any damage.


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## Alfie7777 (Jul 25, 2018)

In your first post you mentioned keeping your windows slightly open to aid air circulation, 
That is one reason for condensation


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## RDB85 (Dec 28, 2011)

Alfie7777 said:


> In your first post you mentioned keeping your windows slightly open to aid air circulation,
> That is one reason for condensation


That’s correct, but without air circulation I think it could be worse.


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## Alfie7777 (Jul 25, 2018)

Rd condensation happens when hot meets cold or vice versa, warm air making contact with cold interior glass


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## grunty-motor (Aug 11, 2016)

RDB85 said:


> That’s it just on the windows.


if its a single glazed window, it could simply be the cold bridge.

otherwise are there any sources of water nearby (bathroom) that could be leaking?

does it only do it when it has rained? 

as above, might be worth a survey or atleast buy a damp meter?


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## James_R (Jun 28, 2007)

RaceGlazer said:


> __
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I bought a Meaco DD8L with the silver ioniser function from RaceGlazer a good few years ago. I reckon it was 2011 or 2012

Unit properly does its job and kicks out a good bit of heat too. (+12deg above ambient)
I use it in the garage over winter even when its 0degC 

Conservatory is not heated and gets down to 0degC in winter too sometimes (we don't use it much) and I use it in there to keep condensation controlled.

Great machine.
Broke last year, ended up buying a new replacement TYC50 motor that spins the desiccant wheel off Amazon, only cost me £9 and after stripping the machine (1hr) and refitting everything (1/2hr) it all worked perfectly again.

In my lounge at the moment, cheaper than having the heating on.


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## Itstony (Jan 19, 2018)

Having been involved in constant construction and buildings, warm air and wet systems as a hobby on time off from main job we came across this topic an awful lot.
The most common cause was over insulation. Lack of air vents. Many were sealed up to stop the cold air. insulation with no gap between felt and insulation where air needs to pass. Insulation get wet and rots.
Air circulation of all types is necessary. Wam air systems are the best, imho. easy install and great heat recovery. We made more money from people wanting to change to wet systems on a whim that the older style were bad, without even considering the new types.
Air circulation is a big factor to be considered.


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## ridders66 (May 24, 2019)

RDB85 said:


> That maybe a point. I’m not sure if it was insulated. It’s had a new roof. They have just put new membrane on by the looks of it, I was looking for an all in one unit as those oiled filled radiators are very expensive to run.


That was my immediate thought when I read your post title. Remember that you have a lot of loft insulation in the loft, but if you convert it you need to remove that, but ensure the roof above you is well insulated. Leaving the existing loft insulation in the floor will stop heat escaping from your main house, but also stop it heating your loft conversion.


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## RaceGlazer (Jan 10, 2007)

Could have bought the same unit from us for £194.99 !
I bought a gift yesterday from a supplier to Amazon - it gave the name it was selling on behalf of at checkout - I saved £10 on Amazons £24.99 price. 
Please support small traders and buy direct, Bezos has more than enough money


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## IvorB1H (6 mo ago)

Well he’s positively skint after the divorce 🤣


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