# 1st time use of a rotary polisher



## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

Decided a while ago to swap my DAS6 DA polisher for an EP801 rotary. Never used a rotary before & after all the scaremongering about burning through I thought I would seek some advice & a get a scrap panel.

Scrap panel from an Audi A3 (hard paint)

Advice from Steve from DW (Steve From Wath)

Panel scuffed up badly with a scourer, polishes used varied on different parts of the bonnet. Mainly used Scholl S17+ & CG White Hexlodic pad. Other pads used were Farecla finishing pad, Megs wool pad. Other polishes played with were Scholl S3 & S40.










scuffed up nicely










Voila


































Sharp enough 










Another scuff up


























Bit of vandalism


















Happier now 










Reflection, no glaze or wax, did not even wipe down










Steve kindly gave me an old pad to try & burn through. Bloody hell it was very hard to burn through & the pad gave in before any damage happened on the panel.










Now I am not saying it is not possible to burn through, but you would have to be pretty reckless to do it...or stupid.

All in all I was very happy with the rotary & no way as scary as some suggest.

Many, many thanks to Steve for his time & for passing on some of his knowledge.


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## Mattodl (Sep 13, 2012)

Im just about to take the leap from a DA, is the difference in speed and the quality of finish worth it?


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## AaronGTi (Nov 2, 2010)

Looking good mate well done.


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

Mattodl said:


> Im just about to take the leap from a DA, is the difference in speed and the quality of finish worth it?


It's quicker than a DA, less noise & vibration. Quality is down to the user/products etc :thumb:


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## pe2dave (Oct 11, 2012)

Nice to have a positive view of rotaries. I wonder if your experience would have been the same with 'soft' paint, i.e. hard to burn?


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

pe2dave said:


> Nice to have a positive view of rotaries. I wonder if your experience would have been the same with 'soft' paint, i.e. hard to burn?


Already used it on soft paint, but did not take any pics. Again as long as you use some common sense then you would have to be pretty reckless to burn through.


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

Very interesting. I used to use a normal corded drill with just a single pad and megs ultimate compound on previous cars- worked well until I found DW and put it in the cupboard lol 
Still not sure whether I would use that old thing on my current car though. Thanks for sharing :thumb:


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## wanner69 (Mar 14, 2010)

Top results Wistow lad :thumb:


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

Video http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp330/stevefromwath/shaunwistowpolishingvideo-1.mp4


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Nice work :thumb:


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

Thanks


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## moono16v (Oct 12, 2010)

Personally I really can't get to grips with my CYC EP800 rotary! I have always used DA for numerous years and went for a rotary around a year ago and have used it at the most 4 times but that's just on single panels and then I remember I just don't have the ability to use it or the knowhow! 

I am tempted to sell it and go for the new meguiars G220 or get myself on a beginners rotary course. 

For me it seems to just run away with itself and I can't control it!


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

moono16v said:


> Personally I really can't get to grips with my CYC EP800 rotary! I have always used DA for numerous years and went for a rotary around a year ago and have used it at the most 4 times but that's just on single panels and then I remember I just don't have the ability to use it or the knowhow!
> 
> I am tempted to sell it and go for the new meguiars G220 or get myself on a beginners rotary course.
> 
> For me it seems to just run away with itself and I can't control it!


Get a scrap panel & practice, if its running away then perhaps not enough polish or too much pressure etc.


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

Big rotary mistakes are not enough polish, too much speed and way too much pressure.
I still think the rotary is the best finishing machine and a DA cannot really touch it for final finish and bling!!


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## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

Your on Audi paint for starters so remember your comparing chalk an cheese when comparing paintwork when talking about burn through. Strike through is more common than burn through and when a car has already been lowered significantly burn through can be alot quicker if the panel temp is raised quickly and pressure is applied so i would err on the side of caution believing its hard to do. Ive done burn through and strike through tests on Ford paint and its been quite easy to do with trainee,s and thats them doing it not me.
What thickness was this paintwork.?


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

HeavenlyDetail said:


> Your on Audi paint for starters so remember your comparing chalk an cheese when comparing paintwork when talking about burn through. Strike through is more common than burn through and when a car has already been lowered significantly burn through can be alot quicker if the panel temp is raised quickly and pressure is applied so i would err on the side of caution believing its hard to do. Ive done burn through and strike through tests on Ford paint and its been quite easy to do with trainee,s and thats them doing it not me.
> What thickness was this paintwork.?


Marc, I know it was hard paint & assume it would be much easier to damage soft paint. The readings if I recall were around 115-120


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## Buckweed (Aug 27, 2012)

Nice work there, got a EP801 myself its a good starter rotary. Just have to take your time and check paint levels as you go. :thumb:


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## JakeVW (Oct 31, 2012)

I used a rotary & a DA for the 1st time this weekend.

I've just got my DAS6 and took a trip to http://www.supercardetailing.com/ Rob there is great at what he does and is well known in detailing, so I asked him for some help getting to grips with it.

After spending a while with my DA he gave me a Rupes DA to try out and I could feel the difference straight away so much easier to use, less vibration, just felt a much better machine, after doing half a panel he set me up with one of his rotary polishers to try out, I was a bit worried but I'd read this thread a couple of days before so I had a little bit of piece at mind.

Anyway, difference wise from a DA to a rotary, all I could feel was that the rotary was a bit more aggressive if it wanted to go somewhere it would, so you do have to control it, it won't do it it'self, but the speed that you get the job done in, was way quicker then the DA and I found the results better as well. :buffer: :buffer:

Had my 1st go on a jet wash and using snow foam with Rob as well on saturday, great fun and it works so well!

Damn I'd love to be that guy.

Anyone that knows him will understand why.

Rob showing me how it's done.







[/URL] IMG_1645[1] by J.J.1992., on Flickr[/IMG]








[/URL] IMG_1643[1] by J.J.1992., on Flickr[/IMG]


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

Rotary is up for swaps http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=288783


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## Mikey18 (Aug 23, 2012)

I am literally about to buy a new polisher but debating between two polishers. Ive always liked the look of the flex vrg 3401 da polisher but debating if i should go for the Flex PE 14-2 150 Rotary Polisher which is the same price. what do people recommend? i have been using a maguires g220 for a few years now. 
Like others, i have always been slightly scared to head up to a rotary polisher but this thread has made me think otherwise.

cheers mike


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## shaunwistow (May 13, 2011)

Mikey18 said:


> I am literally about to buy a new polisher but debating between two polishers. Ive always liked the look of the flex vrg 3401 da polisher but debating if i should go for the Flex PE 14-2 150 Rotary Polisher which is the same price. what do people recommend? i have been using a maguires g220 for a few years now.
> Like others, i have always been slightly scared to head up to a rotary polisher but this thread has made me think otherwise.
> 
> cheers mike


Perhaps you would like to swap your DA for my rotary 

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=288783


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## -Simon- (Oct 29, 2010)

Great stuff!

A scrap panel is without doubt the best way to go!


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## dave- (Nov 8, 2012)

HeavenlyDetail said:


> Your on Audi paint for starters so remember your comparing chalk an cheese when comparing paintwork when talking about burn through. Strike through is more common than burn through and when a car has already been lowered significantly burn through can be alot quicker if the panel temp is raised quickly and pressure is applied so i would err on the side of caution believing its hard to do. Ive done burn through and strike through tests on Ford paint and its been quite easy to do with trainee,s and thats them doing it not me.
> What thickness was this paintwork.?


I have a Ford and a rotary on the way. When you say easy to burn and strike through do you mean by trying to do it on purpose or happening just trying to use the machine as normal ?


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## CTR De (Feb 10, 2011)

unlike the da where you keep the pad flat , when using a rotary if its running away try tilting it slightly , so the polishing area is from centre of pad to the right hand edge (basically one half the pad is contacting the paintwork) , i find this keeps the rotary a lot easier to manoeuvre and stops any pulling


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