# What stage to use fallout remover



## Daytona675 (Apr 13, 2016)

Hi All,
When do you use fallout remover to give the best results?
I currently snow foam, fallout remover, 2BM wash, clay, Polish, wax etc. Theory for me to snow foam then use the fallout remover first is to remove as many contaminants as possible before touching the paintwork, however is having the car dirty potentially reducing the effectiveness of the fallout remover? I've read some people wash them use it and others do it after claying.
What's the best order to ensure I'm getting rid of all contaminants before polishing or is it just personal preference and all give similar results?
Thanks


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## DrEskimo (Jan 7, 2016)

Most people wash, then use fallout. Personally don't see it being an issue doing it before washing. Saves you having to wash it again after. Don't see why you would use it after claying though...thought the idea of fallout and tar remover prior to claying was to remove as much as possible to reduce the risk of marring with the clay bar?

I pre-wash, wash, tar remover, fallout, wash, dry, clay dry, polish, wash, protect. Just my preference though


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

I would say it almost completely pointless using it before a proper wash as the dirt will form a barrier between your fallout remover and the contaminates, the reaction you do get will be from the dirt/brake dust and not actual embedded fall out particles. 

I usually snow foam, 2BM wash and de-tar before using a fall out remover. This ensures there is no dirt or tar creating a barrier for your fall out remover


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## DrEskimo (Jan 7, 2016)

If you like you could do a quick test for us...?!

Maybe use fallout on one side of the car prior to washing (apply, leave to dwell 5mins, the rinse off) and then wash the car. Then use fallout on both sides of the car and record the amount of bleeding on both sides (again apply, leave to dwell then rinse). Finally I would do a third hit on both sides and again report on any bleeding and whether its different on both sides...?

Of course only if you can be arsed! Would be helpful to know if it does matter what stage you use it!


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## bigmac3161 (Jul 24, 2013)

If cars filthy I've used it on dry dirty car. But usually after rinsing or snow foaming. Always before washing as it saves extra wash down.


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Fallout remover is relatively expensive so typically you pre wash, wash, de-tar then use fallout remover but if you are happy using it at any stage prior, fill your boots! 

The thinking is you remove as much dirt leaving the bonded contaminant to be tackled.


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## DrEskimo (Jan 7, 2016)

MDC250 said:


> Fallout remover is relatively expensive so typically you pre wash, wash, de-tar then use fallout remover but if you are happy using it at any stage prior, fill your boots!
> 
> The thinking is you remove as much dirt leaving the bonded contaminant to be tackled.


Yea I apply the same logic with the wheels. Get as much off with the less expensive things and then use the expensive fallout on the stubborn bits!


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## willg (Dec 29, 2011)

Mines:

TFR, Foam, Rinse, 2BM, Rinse, Clay car/mitt and then used fall out remover & de tar.

Everyone has there own methods so just go for what you feel gets you the best results


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## Daytona675 (Apr 13, 2016)

DrEskimo said:


> If you like you could do a quick test for us...?!
> 
> Maybe use fallout on one side of the car prior to washing (apply, leave to dwell 5mins, the rinse off) and then wash the car. Then use fallout on both sides of the car and record the amount of bleeding on both sides (again apply, leave to dwell then rinse). Finally I would do a third hit on both sides and again report on any bleeding and whether its different on both sides...?
> 
> Of course only if you can be arsed! Would be helpful to know if it does matter what stage you use it!


Thanks, I must just do that. My company car is a white insignia it's only a year old but has coffered 35,000 miles and has only ever seen the foreigners!! So should have plenty fallout to test for!! Watch this space


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## LFrosty (Apr 12, 2012)

My process is:

1) Wash (using washing up liquid).
2) Dry.
3) Tar remover (I use Tardis).
4) Rinse.
5) Dry.
6) Fallout remover.
7) Rinse.
8) Clay with car still wet.
9) Wash to remove clay residue.


You can do the above in any order, but by doing it this way, you are leaving the next stage with the minimum amount of work to do, therefore maximising the efficiency of that product.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

LFrosty said:


> My process is:
> 
> 1) Wash (using washing up liquid).
> 2) Dry.
> ...


Is the washing up liquid a well disguised joke...? :tumbleweed:


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## LFrosty (Apr 12, 2012)

Brian1612 said:


> Is the washing up liquid a well disguised joke...? :tumbleweed:


No. Obviously for maintenance washes I use a proper car shampoo, but if I am doing a full clean on the car then I use washing up liquid.

You're going to be removing any treatments you have on the car when you tar remove, fallout remove, clay, and then polish. For this reason I prefer to use a stronger cleaner at the start. Washing up liquid is perfect.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

I would definitely suggest just using a normal shampoo mate. I see what you are saying but I see no additional benefit of using washing up liquid. It's not designed to be slick so the paint would be safer when used with something designed specifically for the job.


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## LewisChadwick7 (Aug 22, 2014)

LFrosty said:


> No. Obviously for maintenance washes I use a proper car shampoo, but if I am doing a full clean on the car then I use washing up liquid.
> 
> You're going to be removing any treatments you have on the car when you tar remove, fallout remove, clay, and then polish. For this reason I prefer to use a stronger cleaner at the start. Washing up liquid is perfect.


has been proven several times that fairy liquid does NOT remove wax or any other LSP in just masks them with a film giving the impression its been removed :thumb:


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## chrissymk3 (Jul 6, 2015)

I just don't get why you would use fairy liquid...

Learnt something on this thread though, I need to start using tar remover haha I plan on buying a das6 so trying to fully understand the decon process


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