# Help a bodywork beginner, need tips!



## kharekatoh (Jun 25, 2008)

Hi guys,

I'm looking at carrying out a bit of bodywork repairs over the summer as it's looking tired and there's some lacquer peel and rust starting to get bigger in size.

Here's said problems

Bumper










Roof lacquer peel










Tailgate paint flaking with a surface layer of rust appearing










Deep scratch, notice some rust on the right one










Door paint all chipped away and starting to rust










Door handle lacquer peel










Indicator paint chip and rusting










Scratch on the bonnet, can't feel it with the fingernail.










Rust appearing where paint has been chipped off by the headlight










Small rust bubble on the roof










Excuse the very dirty car. It's very dusty where I park.

I'm going to order the Full Basecoat Aerosol Repair Kit from paints4u as I've heard great things about them and the instructions on their website seem easy to follow, as well as the kits coming with everything I need.

I'll be needing filler for the deep scratch where it's starting to rust. Can someone recommend something to get rid of the rust? I don't have an angle grinder + it's only small patches of rust, only a few mm long. Would something like kurust work well for this to put under the filler?

For filler I'm thinking this http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_747813_langId_-1_categoryId_165625#tab1, purely because it's fast to harden and sand down but also because it's only a small quantity I need.

Can someone run me through the steps of how they'd sort out each of the blemishes in the pictures?

For the bumper damage for example, would you degrease it (I've read on here lighter fluid works well for this), then put a few layers of primer down, sand it with some fine wet and dry for a smooth finish then basecoat and lacquer? Would I need plastic primer preferably?

Another example, for the roof lacquer peel would I need to sand down the area around the peel to loosen any flakes off and reapply just lacquer or is it better to rub it down to bare metal then filler>primer>basecoat>lacquer?

Also, with kurust, is it just as simple as brushing it on, waiting for it to dry off after it's taken effect then spraying the primer>basecoat>lacquer? Or do I have to rub it down afterwards and then start over?

As you can see I'm very very beginner at this. I don't understand the difference between the different primers, what keying paint in is, etc.


----------



## DaveDesign (May 6, 2008)

I cant help you out with advice on how todo it but you got alot of work todo there bud!:doublesho

If you make a start please keep the thread updated as i'd love to see the progress on this. Woud like a project like this myself.

Dave


----------



## kharekatoh (Jun 25, 2008)

Yeah will keep it updated Dave, it is a hell of a job (for me anyway) I've got on my hands!


----------



## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

That's a fairly big job for a begginer. But I'm a panel beater/car sprayer so any info you need just ask mate.

1k primer is basically cellulose which will mainly come in aerosol form.

2k primer will need to have activator/hardner added, and needs to be applied via spraygun with the correct set up and ventilation preferably an air fed mask, as it contains isocyonate which can be harmfully.

Keying up is used to describe, a panel/primer that has been flatted proir to spraying.

Don't know if this will help I'll put a link below for a bodywork repair manual by Haynes which would be usefull for you.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...ktXsDw&usg=AFQjCNEENrqApi4iakecy511hNaFIxAj3w

As said mate any other tips advice just ask :thumb:


----------



## Guest (May 17, 2012)

Good luck with the work mate, I plan on doing some on my car down the line, but some bits are just to big for me and will go to the professionals.


----------



## kharekatoh (Jun 25, 2008)

Andyb0127 said:


> That's a fairly big job for a begginer. But I'm a panel beater/car sprayer so any info you need just ask mate.
> 
> 1k primer is basically cellulose which will mainly come in aerosol form.
> 
> ...


Thanks very much Andy. I've got all summer to do this so hopefully I'll get it right, otherwise it's satin black time.

What filler would you recommend? I'm looking for a tiny amount so the smaller the tube/container the better, don't want to buy a large pot as 99.9% of it will go to waste!

I'm looking at this. It's small and it has a reference for mixing the two parts.

What's your view on Kurust? Can I apply the filler over it or do I need to go straight to primer?


----------



## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

No problems fella.

P38 will be fine for what you need, it does actually rub down very easy I've used it in the past.

To be honest I've never used kurust, but in know a lot of people really rate bilthamber deox gel for rust. I'll put a link below for it.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...xOieBA&usg=AFQjCNEbyIzTjUIZSrZGrp4ekTPETVI69w

Once thing I will say is don't rush it as is the preparation work that will make your paint job/end result.


----------



## kharekatoh (Jun 25, 2008)

Excellent, will get the P38 tomorrow then. 

Seems the 1kg tub is the smallest size available. I think I'll try my luck and use kurust as it's quick and easy.

The only problem I face is I'm having to do this outside. I'm going to try and build a small booth I can position around covered in plastic to avoid wind/dust. As I said I've got all summer to do this so I'll be taking my time and doing it properly.

Thanks again Andy.


----------



## kharekatoh (Jun 25, 2008)

Oh Andy, I forgot to ask. For the lacquer peel areas, do I need to sand down the area until the paint stops flaking then primer>basecoat>lacquer or just peel off by hand as much lacquer as possible, clean up the area well then reapply the lacquer? The basecoat is undamaged.


----------



## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

kharekatoh said:


> Oh Andy, I forgot to ask. For the lacquer peel areas, do I need to sand down the area until the paint stops flaking then primer>basecoat>lacquer or just peel off by hand as much lacquer as possible, clean up the area well then reapply the lacquer? The basecoat is undamaged.


Yes mate, you need to sand it back. Just make sure you use a block to flat the laquer back, this will make sure it's even and flat prior to priming. :thumb:


----------



## kharekatoh (Jun 25, 2008)

Awesome, thanks very much for the help Andy. Will keep you guys updated.


----------

