# Thinking about wool pads



## M.J (Mar 17, 2010)

Hi everyone just of late after some experimenting it dawned on me i,ve still yet to try a wool pad. I,ve recently had some difficulty in removing very fine wetsanding marks using a green 3M pad and FastCP using the sim 180 . I have a white Menz compounding pad maybe i should try that or should i be heading towards a wool pad are my thoughts ? . I have never tried one and from what i,ve learnt of them its ideal in a sense of less heat more cut? I need something that can correct them very faint lines , they are hard to see but they are there to see in the right light and angle when you search for them closely. I understand there,s many factors in this but i,m fairly confident paint readings can allow for that fine flat surface if possible and no wetsanding lines remaining with something more aggressive than my combo ? 

Thanks for reading  edit : the paint is a factory finish


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

Wool pads are great but do tend to leave their own little marks as well.


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## pete001 (Dec 21, 2006)

M.J said:


> Hi everyone just of late after some experimenting it dawned on me i,ve still yet to try a wool pad. I,ve recently had some difficulty in removing very fine wetsanding marks using a green 3M pad and FastCP using the sim 180 . I have a white Menz compounding pad maybe i should try that or should i be heading towards a wool pad are my thoughts ? . I have never tried one and from what i,ve learnt of them its ideal in a sense of less heat more cut? I need something that can correct them very faint lines , they are hard to see but they are there to see in the right light and angle when you search for them closely. I understand there,s many factors in this but i,m fairly confident paint readings can allow for that fine flat surface if possible and no wetsanding lines remaining with something more aggressive than my combo ?
> 
> Thanks for reading  edit : the paint is a factory finish


These would be a good choice

http://spautopia.co.uk/PremiumLambswoolPads.aspx

My fav 'go to' wool pad, leaves very little or no hologramming,works great with Scholl S17+ or the more aggressive S3 Gold (very similar to 3M FCP).

HTH's.


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Wool vs. Foam*

Pro -faster cutting generates less friction induced heat and therefore leaves the surface cooler, removes heavy oxidation much more efficiently than a form pad. Use foam pad for slower and finer cutting. Wool pads are easier to control compared to foam. They glide as the wool nap 'lies down' and will conform to vehicle body shape easily. Make certain to spur the wool fibres when it loads up with product.

Con -wool can leave micro marring (buffer trails) finish with a foam pad to remove. Don't overwork the polish as wool will break diminishing abrasives faster than foam, the surface lubricants will dry up faster and you could end up dry buffing unless you're careful.


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## matt_r (Jun 20, 2006)

TOGWT said:


> *Wool vs. Foam*
> Make certain to spur the wool fibres when it loads up with product [/COLOR]


can you use a normal pad brush to do this??


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## M.J (Mar 17, 2010)

Exellent info guys i,m going to see whats out there , are there any big differences in different types of wool pads i like to have a heavy cut and something a bit less aggressive but still enough for what i need ? 

many thanks 

Mike


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## ak07 (Dec 4, 2010)

Lc wool pad is a good option. Purple


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

You need something to get in between the wool fibres.


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## matt_r (Jun 20, 2006)

TOGWT said:


> You need something to get in between the wool fibres.


What do you find the best thing to use? Not many retailers seem to sell proper spur things, not that i can find anyway..


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## Gleammachine (Sep 8, 2007)

matt_r said:


> What do you find the best thing to use? Not many retailers seem to sell proper spur things, not that i can find anyway..


Meguiars triple brush.

http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Meguiars_Triple_Duty_Detail_Brush_1.html


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## matt_r (Jun 20, 2006)

cheers Rob, Ive already got one of these, just didnt think that it would get deep enough into the fibres of the pad, but will give it a try.


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

Wool pads are alot of fun and buff marks/marring can be reduced to virtually nothing by using a pad lube (ONR works well) and using jewelling technique
slow the rpms down back to 900 and 750 

as for pad spurring, best way is compressed air. fluffs the wool back up and much easier and faster than using a brush


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

Dream Machines said:


> Wool pads are alot of fun and buff marks/marring can be reduced to virtually nothing by using a pad lube (ONR works well) and using jewelling technique
> slow the rpms down back to 900 and 750
> 
> as for pad spurring, best way is compressed air. fluffs the wool back up and much easier and faster than using a brush


Smoke 'em if you got 'em.

Good advice but an air compressor is not a common tool for enthusiast detailers

Old school (definitely not H&S approved) use the tip of a screwdriver


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## John @ PB (Aug 25, 2010)

M.J said:


> Exellent info guys i,m going to see whats out there , are there any big differences in different types of wool pads i like to have a heavy cut and something a bit less aggressive but still enough for what i need ?
> 
> many thanks
> 
> Mike


My thinking is, if you need the cut of wool, you might as well go to the more aggressive foamed wool - we stock the Lake Country Purple ones. They're cleaner to use as the wool doesn't lint everywhere.

Cleaning them with a Triple Duty Brush is ideal. Wool does need a definite knack to getting the best out of it so some practice on a scrap panel is definitely a good idea: pigtails can sometimes be quite deep so get your technique honed on a scrap panel first and you shouldn't be inducing them.


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## carrera2s (Jun 28, 2009)

Old school (definitely not H&S approved) use the tip of a screwdriver [/COLOR][/QUOTE]

Well said, works a treat!:thumb:


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## Lewis. (Feb 26, 2008)

I recently bought a snap on tool box and top is scratched to buggery. I have gone over it with a green pad and 3M FCP, then BLue pad and Ultra Fina - MUCH better but there are deep surface scratches so considering a wool pad and FCP. What do we think? (And don't mention the fact it's sad polishing a toolbox!)


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## ronwash (Mar 26, 2011)

School concepts topwool pads really are top pads.


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## Spirit Detailing (Mar 29, 2007)

I find wook pads get thin if you spin the polisher and use a spur or brush. As Dream Machines said, compressed air is good. However, if you only have a brush to use, then first brush the pad while the machine is still. It separates the "matted" fibres (sorry for the pun, Matt), then spin the machine at medium speed with the brush. But move away from the car as the bloody dust flies. Don't breathe in the dust as well. 3M stuff is lethal. I call it Fast Kill Plus!! LOL

As for choice of pads, on modern clears, use something like LC Purple. Shop around for them. You can get them cheap from the US on Ebay, including postage. Cheaper than UK sources! :thumb:

For older hard paints like older VAG paint from early 90's, then get blended or woven wool pads. But go easy with those monsters and work them slowly to start. Don't use them on modern cars unless they have re-sprayed paint and pretty thick layers at that!

Cheers
:thumb:


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## M.J (Mar 17, 2010)

Thought i,d buy some wool and foam pads from PB the LC ones 
Cant wait


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