# Just picked up some Winter wheels... DIY refurb and what colour?



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I've just picked up a set of Monza wheels and Vredestein Wintrac tyres, for my Golf, for over Winter. The tyres are in superb condition, but the wheels themselves certainly need some attention.

So, my question is... what do I need to buy to have a bash at this myself? I've always fancied doing this, but didn't want to practice on my Pescara's, but these are perfect for it.

Also, what colour do you guys think? Main colours are obviously silver, black or anthracite, but I'm open to suggestion. The car is black.


Untitled by RussZS, on Flickr


Untitled by RussZS, on Flickr

I seem to remember a few superb DIY threads on here, but can't seem to find them?

Cheers,

Russ.


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## Adrian Convery (May 27, 2010)

You will need a good range of sandpapers, 80 for any really bad bits and work all the way up to about 1200 wet.

Usually sand it down to about 400 first then prime it, sand that down to smooth it, then paint, sand down again and then clear coat to finish is basically it!


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## Claireeyy (Jul 20, 2009)

Keep them black hide the dirt in the winter when you can't get the car cleaned


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Claireeyy said:


> Keep them black hide the dirt in the winter when you can't get the car cleaned


Would you go gloss black? Black on black is a bit drug dealer though maybe?


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

Depends how much you want to stand out. With a black car you can pretty much go for whatever.


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## Adrian Convery (May 27, 2010)

Don't do black on black, do anthracite as you have said or else maybe a darkish bronze?


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## Claireeyy (Jul 20, 2009)

RussZS said:


> Would you go gloss black? Black on black is a bit drug dealer though maybe?


Well call it stealth if it makes you feel better :lol: are they just winter wheels though? Could just do something funky. I have seen a couple black are with 2 orange and 2 green wheels but only for winter. Even a a car with 4 different coloured wheels :doublesho

I have been thinking that grey would look good on black, but not too dark. A few shades lighter than anthracite.


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## rds1985 (Mar 7, 2009)

I would go gloss black or silver aren't your current wheels anthracite so a change might be good?


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## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

Black on black I say - what's wrong with the pimp look


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Bronze or orange or green.


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I do fancy gloss black tbh... would make the brakes look good too.

Is it an easy colour to work with paint wise, or doesn't it make a difference?

I'll be following this guide:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=229424


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

bigmc said:


> Bronze or orange or green.


Bronze could look quite good... Orange will clash with ze calipers.


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

I've seen orange on a golf aswell as green but one i saw recently had like a dark purple. Lovely imo


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## ROMEYR32 (Mar 27, 2011)

I used 3M spot putty mate to repair our DD wheels, sand, prime, paint and laquer. Came out really well. It cures quickly and is very easy to sand :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3m-Acryl-..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item255ccffe3b


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## mdswente (Sep 24, 2010)

Choose white..... We all know how much of an iron-x fanboy you are  :lol:


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## Maggi200 (Aug 21, 2009)

Russ don't go black. Those who say it hides dirt... bullcrap. You've obviously never had black alloys! Just driving down the road and they'll look brown rather than black :lol: 

Anthracite dude. Do it right


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## bluenose (Aug 15, 2007)

I was talked out of black for winters as someone rightly pointed out that brownish winter salt and road crap makes black wheels look rubbish!

Anthracite summers, sparkling silver winters for contrast on my black bimmer.


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## Crispo (Mar 23, 2011)

Go anthracite russ, if it looks good its a colour option for me if I get my monza's refurbed


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## PaulGTI (Oct 21, 2006)

I think they look lovely as they are!


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

I've just painted the grill on my golf gloss black and boy was it a nightmare! :lol:

Orange peel everywhere so 5/6+ hours of wetsanding!


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## Demetrios72 (Jun 27, 2011)

Silver Russ , keep them original :thumb:


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## malky christie (Nov 15, 2008)

mdswente said:


> Choose white..... We all know how much of an iron-x fanboy you are  :lol:


Funny I was going to say white :lol:


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## Horatio (Oct 30, 2011)

Silver all the way! I saw an mk5 gti in Stratford today with these wheels...silver and polished, oh my....


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## ant_s (Jan 29, 2009)

Be a rebble and exciting and go for green or red. I'd go green jsut because it would be a laugh, but red would actaul tie in with your calipers and other bit's and bob's.

There only going to get filthy and only for winter, and when winter is soooo crap and miserable, you'll walk to your (stunning) ED30 and see your bright coloured wheels, laugh and think "why on earth did I listen to Ant, and paint them green/yellow/red/purple/blue" and that will brighten up your day


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## tom-coupe (Jan 17, 2009)

i was going to say red lol


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## gm8 (Apr 25, 2011)

White on black is really good . this was a factory option on that car


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

I'll spray them in gloss black, gives it more a stealth look, plus it will not look dirty than a silver wheel, black will hind the dirt more.

Make sure you place enough coats of lacquer to protect the finish.

I really do believe gloss black will look the business, its your choice end of the day, what ever makes you happy.


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Red looks good


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

I like the disc brakes on that golf mk4, they really stand out.


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Trip tdi said:


> I like the disc brakes on that golf mk4, they really stand out.


They need to be twice the size though really.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Silver would probably be the 'classy' option, but part of me wants to say paint them some garish contrasting colour, and just revel in the chav-tastic-ness . You could paint the faces silver, and the insides black for an interesting bit of contrast. Rubery Owen used to do this, and it turned into a bit of a classic. You can also get some halfways decent spray-chrome options, but these are fairly expensive. I personally would just look at various silver cars, pick one that you like, and have the colour-code mixed up in an aerosol. They're winter wheels, and it's a modern car, so I wouldn't be too fussed with originality and matching the factory VW Wheel Silver paint codes (I believe Wurth sells an aerosol match for this.). 

Degrease, chemically strip (Optional, but your results will be better.), Sand, prepsol-wipe, putty, sand, tack, prime, sand, tack, colour-coat, and clear is the standard order of things. If you're using lacquer-based paints make sure to apply them in light mist coats, and lightly flat back between coats with some 800-1000 grit to prevent cracking. These days you can even get very nice modern PVB self-etching primers, 2K epoxy primers, 2K urethane primers, polyester basecoats, and 2K urethane clear coats in aerosol cans (BE CAREFUL! Contains Isocyanates. Wear proper respirator with fresh organic filter cartridges, allow PLENTY of ventilation, and cover all skin before using to prevent damage to your central-nervous and respiratory systems.) for more durability, but they are more expensive. If you're stripping the wheels, make sure to use a self-etching primer with some anodic corrosion inhibitors, like Bilt-Hamber Etchweld or U-Pol Acid #8 for maximum protection and adhesion. If you're just doing a 'scuff and shoot' Bilt-Hamber Highbild or U-Pol High #5 would be good choices. If you are using a lacquer based colour coat, something like U-Pol #1 High Gloss Clear would add a little bit more protection and shine. The hardness (And mar resistance/chip susceptibility) of Lacquer paints varies depending on the colour due to the exposed nature of the pigment in the resin structure: White and clear are the two hardest, whereas colours like black and red tend to be quite soft. 

Unless you refinish them with catalyzed products you won't be able to use a nano-sealant on them, and you'll have to wait AT LEAST 90-days (Preferably longer with lacquer products, which take forever to out-gas, and can begin to check if you apply too many coats too quickly, or seal them too soon.) before applying an LSP. Polishing with standard automotive abrasive polishes, washing with ph neutral products, and application of a pure glaze like Megs #7 is acceptable within the curing period. If you are intending to do wet sanding and polishing, make sure to apply a few extra coats. 1K Lacquer and Enamel paints are very delicate, so even when fully cured refrain from using products like IronX, acid wheel cleaners, alkaline wheel cleaners, petroleum-solvent based tar removers, or strong APC dilutions. I find that a 5-10% dilution of Bilt-Hamber Surfex is safe, and does the job quite well, though something like P21S TAW, P21S Wheel Cleaner Gel, Dodo-Juice Tarmalade, or Auto-Finesse Citrus Cleaner (I know you're an A-F Fanboy .) would probably give you a bit more grunt if needed. Be as gentle as possible, as non-catalyzed paint finishes can mar very easily.

Hopefully this helps.

Steampunk


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## OutLore (Jan 19, 2007)

mdswente said:


> Choose white..... We all know how much of an iron-x fanboy you are  :lol:


Make them purple to start with then :thumb:


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## Buck (Jan 16, 2008)

Russ

I'd either go 'bright' siver (as opposed to a dull/grey silver) or Anthracite

I pick up my winter alloys this week - will see if I decide to leave them this winter then refurb for next year...


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## PaulGTI (Oct 21, 2006)

Hmmm...

Just watched 5th gear where they did the Metro in a wrap...

How about doing either the face or insets with a carbon look wrap?


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## President Swirl (Oct 23, 2011)

*Wheel refurb*

Hi mate, i have refurbed a few sets of alloys before. Hopefully the guide below will help. first off, you need sandpaper ranging from 60 grit up to 1200 wet and dry. If you have a detail sander for the first part it will save time and knuckles Let's assume you will be doing them by hand. first off,you need to get them as bare as you can with the 60 grit. at this stage, if there are any bad chunks taken out these will need to be filled. even minor ones. you may not think they look bad now, but they will look 10 times worse when finished. when/ if chunks have been dealt with, rub down with 120, then 240, then 400.The next stage is primer. Before you prime, all the dust and crap must be off the wheel. A tack cloth after a wet cloth wipe down is ideal. Now feel the wheel for imperfections make sure it's as smooth as possible, if not keep going with the 400. If you have any exposed metal you will need some acid etch primer put down before your normal primer. If that is needed, wait for it to dry and use a dust coat of filler primer if there are still light scratches evident. Omit the filler primer stage, if it is smooth. Now you need to apply your primer. Before you do this, i suggest letting just enough air from your tyres, so you can put pieces of thin cardboard down the back of the rims and over the tyre. Now you are ready to prime. Remember try a dust coat first, to find imperfections. If you find any, allow the primer to dry, and repeat sanding until the surface is even. Once the primer is dry sand it lightly with 1200 wet and dry. ( wet is best ) ideally soak the wet and dry for an hour or so first. Once you have a super smooth surface repeat the cleaning stage, and once dry you can put the top coat on. I suggest 3 dust coats, with a half hour gap in between. Now, cover your wheels and leave them to dry for at least a day ( the primer should be left a day also ) once the top coat is dry, thoroughly clean, then apply, once dry your lacquer. Again 3 dust coats with half an hour gap inbetween. once dry, remove your tyre protection, and admire:thumb: I hope i live far enough away from you so you can't kick my ass if it goes wrong Good luck.


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## President Swirl (Oct 23, 2011)

Forgot to add, why not a one off who gives a s$$t colour like orange or green?


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## vaughn1 (Sep 11, 2007)

President Swirl said:


> Hi mate, i have refurbed a few sets of alloys before. Hopefully the guide below will help. first off, you need sandpaper ranging from 60 grit up to 1200 wet and dry. If you have a detail sander for the first part it will save time and knuckles Let's assume you will be doing them by hand. first off,you need to get them as bare as you can with the 60 grit. at this stage, if there are any bad chunks taken out these will need to be filled. even minor ones. you may not think they look bad now, but they will look 10 times worse when finished. when/ if chunks have been dealt with, rub down with 120, then 240, then 400.The next stage is primer. Before you prime, all the dust and crap must be off the wheel. A tack cloth after a wet cloth wipe down is ideal. Now feel the wheel for imperfections make sure it's as smooth as possible, if not keep going with the 400. If you have any exposed metal you will need some acid etch primer put down before your normal primer. If that is needed, wait for it to dry and use adust coat of filler primer if there are still light scratches evident. Omit the filler primer stage, if it is smooth. Now you need to apply your primer. Before you do this, i suggest letting just enough air from your tyres, so you can put pieces of thin cardboard down the back of the rims and over the tyre. Now you are ready to prime. Remember try a dust coat first, to find imperfections. If you find any, allow the primer to dry, and repeat sanding until the surface is even. Once the primer is dry sand it lightly with 1200 wet and dry. ( wet is best ) ideally soak the wet and dry for an hour or so first. Once you have a super smooth surface repeat the cleaning stage, and once dry you can put the top coat on. I suggest 3 dust coats, with a half hour gap in between. Now, cover your wheels and leave them to dry for at least a day ( the primer should be left a day also ) once the top coat is dry, thoroughly clean, then apply, once dry your lacquer. Again 3 dust coats with half an hour gap inbetween. once dry, remove your tyre protection, and admire:thumb: I hope i live far enough away from you so you can't kick my ass if it goes wrong Good luck.


good guide, do you rough up the colour coat before the laquer goes on? or just cleaned up and laquered on top of the colour?


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

Russ i did similar few years ago and well prepared then two undercoat tin spray the 4 thin top coats then rubbed down with wet and dry till matt and then sprayed on lacquer looked very good IMHO for quick cheap fix


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Im rather drawn to white.....


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## The Cueball (Feb 8, 2007)

to be honest, I would leave them for over winter...they may just get messed up anyway, so I would leave them as they as...

:thumb:


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## Herefordquattro (May 31, 2010)

just tarted up my original 16"'s for the winter (they were black when I bought the car - don't do it!)
Stripped with nitromors last year (hard messy work with wire wool)
1 can of Acid#8 etch primer
2 cans primer
2 cans Wurth German wheel paint - this stuff is the absolute nuts for an original look, great coverage, good match, nice flakes very very impressed.
2 cans of laquer

4 x Dunlop SP winter sport 4d

1 x Quattro

bring on the snow

ps i was tempted to just laquer the primer as strangely looks very clean!
White was also an option


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## Posambique (Oct 20, 2010)

Orange, Red or Matte Black


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## Bel (Mar 1, 2011)

I've gone with metallic black (body colour actually) on my winter wheels and they absolutely DO hide the road crap better than the silver ones.

I wouldn't want them all year round, because the colour does hide the detail of the wheel, and the lack of contrast between wheels and body makes it look a bit dull quite honestly. 

There's also a school of thought that says black rims look cheap and nasty - sort of like a cheap plastic trim has fallen off 

But I'd still stick with black for a winter daily driver because it's the most practical colour, plain and simple.


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## THE CHAMP (Aug 1, 2008)

silver for me black looks good on light coloured car IMO


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## President Swirl (Oct 23, 2011)

*refurb*

Hi vaughn, i personally just put clear straight onto the gloss, it has been fine so far. the clear must be bone dry though. Some say prep the gloss, but, for me it does not affect bonding issues:thumb: Thanks for the kind remark about the guide, it was learned with many grazed knuckles and tarantinoesque levels of profanity!


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## kimandsally (May 21, 2011)

Claireeyy said:


> Well call it stealth if it makes you feel better :lol: are they just winter wheels though? Could just do something funky. I have seen a couple black are with 2 orange and 2 green wheels but only for winter. Even a a car with 4 different coloured wheels :doublesho
> 
> I have been thinking that grey would look good on black, but not too dark. A few shades lighter than anthracite.


I had a car that Peter Coopers of Southampton painted it was vandalised but when Peter Coopers had finished wrecking it all the panels were different colours the car looked terrible and they charged me £2460 to wreck it!!

My car looke awful so I wouldn't advise different colour wheels as no matter where you go someone will pick fault they did with my car anyway.


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