# Disaster! Help! Taken off paint and scratched with wetsanding!



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

Hi all.

I had a large scratch down the side of my car when I bought it. Tonight I attempted to correct it. I used a touch up pen on a small part of the scratch to test the method. I then waited an hour then wet sanded down with fine paper and fairy liquid. So far so good. Then I used my rotary and Menz Power Gloss. The scratches weren't budging. I tried another pass and then I saw primer! I don't know what to do I guess I could cry!

Do you think a company like Chipsaway could correct it completely for me? I know I've been completely stupid here. Cost isn't an issue. I just want the scratch gone!

I have a Golf GTI.

Pics:


----------



## badly_dubbed (Dec 11, 2008)

PRIME example of where a PTG should be used. imo


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

What is a PTG?


----------



## Finerdetails (Apr 30, 2006)

firstly, sorry to see what you have done.

You've well and trully gone right through, and going off where it is, it will be a panel paint job, not smart repair.


----------



## Guest (Jul 23, 2009)

badly_dubbed said:


> PRIME example of where a PTG should be used. imo


Prime example of wet sanding, gonna happen sooner or later


----------



## badly_dubbed (Dec 11, 2008)

Warzie8 said:


> What is a PTG?


paint thickness gauge


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

I could really use some advice on where to go next.


----------



## badly_dubbed (Dec 11, 2008)

a local spray painter would be the first step


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

What sort of cost are we talking?


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Sorry to say this buy as Iain has suggested its a paint shop and respray on this panel.

There has been a up turn in these posts and it does not mater how many times people are told. Only in dire circumstances, they carry on. Sorry m8 it does not help you. But I hope it will help others and make them think first. Before undertaking such a repair or even wet sanding.
Gordon.


----------



## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

What grade of paper did you use? those sanding marks are DEEP!


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

It was the finest paper I had out of a selection. I know I'm an absolute idiot. I just want to know it can be corrected.


----------



## badly_dubbed (Dec 11, 2008)

what grade was your finest?

it can be rectified, as said only by repspray.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

It didn't say. I was being hasty. It's what I usually do when I get an idea. Jump straight in.


----------



## Wozza (Mar 3, 2007)

Clark said:


> What grade of paper did you use? those sanding marks are DEEP!


My thoughts exactly - that looks like a coarse grade of paper - even a fine grade used dry wouldnt make marks like that.


----------



## Prism Detailing (Jun 8, 2006)

You first have to fall, before you can pick yourself up..........as much as people might slate you for decision, its been made as long as you have taken something from it. To learn a skill, you will obviously make mistakes, no one can say they never have !


----------



## lofty (Jun 19, 2007)

On the plus side I doubt you could have fully removed or hidden the scratch anyway,so you may have ended up at a spray shop sooner or later.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

I got Chipsaway out last year to give me a quote. Was around £200 to repair the scratch. I'm guessing it's a lot more than that now .


----------



## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

Looks like sanding marks from the finest paper you may get in the likes of halfords for rubbing filler down or something - not exactly ideal for clearcoat when you need unigrit papers...


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

I live in Egham, Surrey. If anyone knows of any places to get a quote please let me know.


----------



## PootleFlump (Jan 1, 2006)

Warzie8 said:


> I got Chipsaway out last year to give me a quote. Was around £200 to repair the scratch. I'm guessing it's a lot more than that now .


Why pay £200 to repair a scratch when a bodyshop would cost no more to respray the whole panel.

The only option you have now is to visit your local bodyshop and get the whole panel painted.

I've successfully repaired scratches using a fairly basic technique

1) paint/clear built up just above the existing surface
2) 2000 grit wet and dry on a flat block, lightly flat back the new paint to level
3) break out the polish and restore shine.

It'll never be perfect using this technique but will improve considerbly and avoid costly resprays.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

At the same time I'd like a couple of other scratches dealt with and a tiny dent. Suppose this is the best time...


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Ouch.

As above, what grade paper did you use?

Also, I'd say the paint needed longer than an hour too?

Anyway, a respray for a panel should be about £150, but they may insist on doing more to 'colour match'


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

What do you mean more to 'colour match'?

This place is right near where I work on an Industrial Estate.
http://chertseycoachworks.co.uk


----------



## Benn (Aug 22, 2007)

This is why wet sanding isnt something to do till you know what your doing.
You can see where youve gone thru the lacquer while doing this. In sted of just flatting the "head" of the touch up paint.

As has been said, i wouldnt bother with a "chips away" or so on. Take it to a local bodyshop and get a quote. Prices are different all over the country, but you'll be looking under £200.
When your there look at the car thats have been painted, look at the qualty of the paint and the finish.

Just cars they have nice "high" end cars there doesnt mean bugger all.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

I guess to get the scratch out completely it would have needed a respray anyway. I will pop in and get a quote tomorrow.


----------



## Whitty_1811_d (Jun 5, 2009)

think of it this way as it was with the key/scratch mark it needed painting to sort it 100%

if you had tried and been successful then you would be over the moon with saved money ect ect and plenty on here would congratulate you for having a go and getting positive results 


but alas this time no such luck 

you tried and you failed it still needs painting. you have lost nothing but a bit of pride !


----------



## sootysteve (Jun 23, 2007)

im sure you will have it looking like new soon, in future with wet sanding, as a minimum i recommend 2000 grade, no less than. HTH


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

You think it will take less than a day for the respray and a couple of little scratches/dents?


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

nope - needs prep, paint, curing etc - unlikely to get a quality job in 1 day IMHO.

was it even automotive sandpaper you used or woodworking paper? Wildly different stuff. Sorry you learned the tough way, and to think I have got so much flak in some recent posts for damping down enthusiasm for DIY wetsanding.....


----------



## james_19742000 (May 8, 2008)

I learnt the hard way as well, we have a New Beetle, 8 years old, bit of a 'play thing' if you know what I mean, the bonnet was badly stone chipped and the bumper had bad cracking on the clear coat, so fancied trying wetsanding the bonnet, filled teh chips and then wet sanded it, went really well except one place where I burnt through unfortunately, didnt bother me as it would of needed spraying eventually anyway, so went to a local body shop that I know, a friend of the family, and he rubbed the bonnet and bumper down and resprayed it all, with a superb colour match and top class job for £100, so you might be surprised what the cost will be, there are some excellent value places out there.

While I was there the guy was wet sanding a complete 6 month old 3 series BMW, I watched him do some as I was interested, and it was like watching an artist doing tyhe wet sanding, just showed me how out of my depth I really was, but glad I done it as it was a learning curve to me, the shine he was getting on the BMW was superb!!!

Good luck on getting yoru scratch done, I am sure it wont be as bad as you think.

James


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

james_19742000 said:


> I learnt the hard way as well, we have a New Beetle, 8 years old, bit of a 'play thing' if you know what I mean, the bonnet was badly stone chipped and the bumper had bad cracking on the clear coat, so fancied trying wetsanding the bonnet, filled teh chips and then wet sanded it, went really well except one place where I burnt through unfortunately, didnt bother me as it would of needed spraying eventually anyway, so went to a local body shop that I know, a friend of the family, and he rubbed the bonnet and bumper down and resprayed it all, with a superb colour match and top class job for £100, so you might be surprised what the cost will be, there are some excellent value places out there.
> 
> While I was there the guy was wet sanding a complete 6 month old 3 series BMW, I watched him do some as I was interested, and it was like watching an artist doing tyhe wet sanding, just showed me how out of my depth I really was, but glad I done it as it was a learning curve to me, the shine he was getting on the BMW was superb!!!
> 
> ...


Where did you get it done? I don't mind travelling a fair way to get it done properly and at a decent price.


----------



## *MAGIC* (Feb 22, 2007)

PM sent R.E. Bodyshop


----------



## MK1Campaign (Mar 27, 2007)

Dont even attempt to let chipsaway touch it.


----------



## sootysteve (Jun 23, 2007)

MK1Campaign said:


> Dont even attempt to let chipsaway touch it.


agree, they made a right **** up on a small scratch i had, i guess its luck of the draw though as to who you get turn up.


----------



## kev_vaux (May 7, 2009)

What grade paper did you use, 

By the avoidence of te question i take it its a 1500 grit + paper,

I had my first dabble with wetsanding at the weekend on some stone chips,

Went for the correct 4000 and 2000 grade pads and made sure they were well lubricated and soaked,

Get a test panel before you try again,

Its all a learning curve so dont worry!


----------



## Prism Detailing (Jun 8, 2006)

Are you not meant to leave the pads in water over night ? ? ?


----------



## b3n76 (May 16, 2009)

You learn by your mistakes mate,sometimes costly.On a plus note you might aswell pratice on the rest of the panel before you get it repainted:thumb:


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

Got a quote today by Chertsey Coachworks. £115 for the panel. I also asked if he could sort out a dent on my driver's side door and where some paint was flaking. All in £200. I've taken him up on the offer and it's being done Monday. Will be ready to collect Tuesday night. I just hope he does a good job and I get some sort of guarantee! Does that sound reasonable?


----------



## Prism Detailing (Jun 8, 2006)

b3n76 said:


> You learn by your mistakes mate,sometimes costly.On a plus note you might aswell pratice on the rest of the panel before you get it repainted:thumb:


Probably some of the best advise :thumb:


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

Should I ask the spray shop if the paint will be baked?


----------



## Amagoza (May 22, 2009)

Warzie8 said:


> Should I ask the spray shop if the paint will be baked?


Why?

Best advice I can give is to relax. Let the bodyshop do their job, they are professionals and they know what they are doing.
When you get the car back I'm sure it will be fine and you'll be pleased to hand over the £200.00

If you want to learn how to do things like wet sanding I'd recommend you find a detailer local to you and ask them to do the work, 1. You know it's going to be done correctly, 2. You will learn from watching a professional carry out the skills of his trade that he took years to master.
:thumb:


----------



## Rob_Quads (Jul 17, 2006)

So what grade paper did you use then?


----------



## BILL (May 12, 2006)

Whitty_1811_d said:


> think of it this way as it was with the key/scratch mark it needed painting to sort it 100%
> 
> if you had tried and been successful then you would be over the moon with saved money ect ect and plenty on here would congratulate you for having a go and getting positive results
> 
> ...


+ 1, and learned a valuable lesson.


----------



## james_19742000 (May 8, 2008)

Warzie8 said:


> Where did you get it done? I don't mind travelling a fair way to get it done properly and at a decent price.


Am in Torquay, so quite a way really isnt it?

Just noticed you have it booked in, excellent news, good luck and lets see the finished results


----------



## eric_knapper (Jan 7, 2009)

One other point I noticed from your initial post was that you also used Fairy liquid don't use that as it contains large amounts of salt.

Regarding the use of wet and dry all papers have their use down to 1500 grit which I use a lot after spraying new paint followed by 2000 grit before compounding but I know that I have sprayed an extra coat of clear just for this process.

With an unknown paint finish if you are going to wet sand approach it in the same way you would with polish and pad combinations going for the lightest cut first to see if it does the job only switching to a more aggressive paper if it's not having the desired effect keeping in mind that you don't know the clear thickness and so for that I would start with 2500 and 2000 but nothing lower. 

Buy good quality paper (probably cheaper than the Halfords stuff) from you local paint supplier and soak it overnight (add some body wash to the water) the cheap stuff will fall apart if you leave it in water too long. Sand along the scratch at first let the paper do the work just a light pressure add lots of water from a sprayer and dunk the wet n dry in a clean bucket of water often. Switch to sanding vertically for a couple of passes and then at a 45 degree angle then back to the horizontal in all about 8 passes. 

Now polish out if it still needs more work do it again (once you have used the paper on a few passes throw it away and use a new piece) but there is always the risk the clear is too thin and that is your choice. If you can feel the scratch catch your finger nail as you pass over it's more than likely to deep to be completely removed and it's a case of hidding it the best you can or maybe adding some clear first before wet flatting.


----------



## Kriminal (Jan 11, 2007)

Sorry to hear you learned the hard way mate - it was either gonna go right, or wrong....you were just unfortunate.

So don't go thinking you're a numpty. You'll only be a numpty if you go and do exactly the same to another panel !! It's all about learning :thumb:

I hope all goes well at the bodyshop for you, and you're happy with the work they carry out.

PS. this is why I [email protected] myself about wet-sanding anything. I can guarantee you I'd be posting the same results ! :wall:


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

Thanks people. Hopefully the they will do a good job on the respray. A close inspection will follow before I hand any money over! The guys are professionals so I'm not going to worry too much.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

It's in the bodywork shop right now. Getting it back tomorrow night. Here's hoping they apply laquer!


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

They should apply a clear coat shouldn't they?


----------



## eric_knapper (Jan 7, 2009)

You will need to ask them if you didn't specify the paint type you wanted. However I think these days due to more ridged environmental requirements most bodyshop's now use water based paints of the base/clear type. The clear laquer is still 1k or 2k though as there is no water based alternative as yet.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

So what you are saying is that they should have applied a clearcoat?


----------



## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

what grade paper did you use ?


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

I don't know. One thing for sure is I won't be doing it again.


----------



## m0bov (May 2, 2007)

what grade of paper?


----------



## freshprince (Apr 21, 2007)

Warzie8 said:


> I live in Egham, Surrey. If anyone knows of any places to get a quote please let me know.


little knocks in camberley


----------



## eric_knapper (Jan 7, 2009)

Warzie8 said:


> So what you are saying is that they should have applied a clearcoat?


They may have done but you should have asked them when they gave you a quote if it was a single stage or 2 stage finish, 2 stage is the base and clear.

Single stage is cheaper as it takes less time and materials to complete but as I said in the previous post you will need to ask them what system they used as every shop is different.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

All done now. Pleased with the results. Here are some photos:
Scratch now gone!









Dents in driver's door removed.









Couple of small little things I've found. Hopefully this will clay bar out?









Also they seem to have polished the rest of the car and in places the paintwork is a little dull.









Tomorrow I plan on giving it a nice Megs Gold Class wash and then clay the parts of the car that were not resprayed. I want to apply my own polish, probably some SRP followed by Colly 476s.

All in all though I'm impressed and they've touched up my alloys too, not to mention a few stone chips as well!









What do you think?


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

I've only found one defect! Under the door protector on driver's side there is a little paint build up just underneath and it's a bit blotchy. Not worth taking it back for. It's not on show so it'll be alright.


----------



## m0bov (May 2, 2007)

What grade of paper?


----------



## never ready (Dec 12, 2007)

Is there an echo in here?


----------



## gt5500 (Aug 6, 2008)

never ready said:


> Is there an echo in here?


There's certainly not an answer :lol:


----------



## Charley Farley (Jul 8, 2009)

Having just read all the way through, I too would be interested in the grade of prep paper used! It would be beneficial to know.


----------



## dantheman (Dec 10, 2007)

it doesn`t really matter what grade he used, it was obviously the wrong one or that and a lack of experience

better off asking which would be the correct ones to use 

I would just like to thank the op for having the balls to post up about his mistake
it has shown what damage can be done by rushing in 

bet theres more people done the same thing but would never admit to the muckup

it must be so easy to do something like this

its something that you really need to pratice or be taught by someone who knows what they are doing


----------



## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Have you all repeatedly missed the fact that he doesn't know what grade sandpaper he used?! He's said it about 4 times.


----------



## Eddy (Apr 13, 2008)

what grade of paper?














only joking  but gald its all sorted and I think a few of us have learned a valuable lesson, don't think i'll be using my new sanding papers from CYC after seeing this.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

Just want to bump this. My car has been back in the body shop since Monday as I was disgusted with the job they had done. I have been checking on it every day and no progress is being made. I looked today at lunchtime to see they have re-done a panel but the orange peel effect is terrible. I complained and they are doing it yet again. I won't have a car for the rest of the week now. If they don't do a good job at the end I am going to demand my money back. They have butchered my car. I only asked for one panel to be sprayed but they decided to do three! I wouldn't have minded if they did a good job.

I asked why it's taking so long to which they say, "the paint is having trouble bonding to the car". I asked a friend and he said it's probably the fact they aren't prepping the panel correctly. As I look after my car with polish/waxes etc they are just using thinners and just spraying on top. 

I think a name and shame is in order here:

Apple Coachworks, Hanworth Industrial Estate, Chertsey.

I am bitterly disappointed and upset that my car has been ruined.


----------



## mellowfellow (Jul 11, 2009)

Depends what body shop you take it, but as an example my sons car had the whole bonnet and the rear quarter done 1 month ago and total cost was £200 , and that was for black metallic paint.


----------



## Warzie8 (Sep 11, 2008)

Did they do a good job?


----------



## DavieB (Aug 14, 2009)

I'm no expert, but I'm sure I have read somewhere on her about waxes, sealents, polishes etc having an affect on paint bonding if not complety removed.


----------

