# 3000 grit scratches...



## M3_Crazy_Dude (Dec 17, 2008)

Hi

I'm struggling to remove 3000 grit scratches from wet sanding and was hoping to get some guidance.

So far...

I wet sanded the area previously and used 2500 grit, then today used 3000 grit and got the surface to a level of dull haze.

I used the Menzerna Heavy Cutting Compound 400, chemical guys orange hex-logic pad and a generic DA polisher (see pics below) but whilst the haze is removed the light scratches remain. It's like the scratches you would see if a car went through a brush car wash.

Any ideas as to what I should do next - should I look to buy a more aggressive pad or different rubbing compound or is it a case of perseverance ?

Car is a BMW 2018 in a metallic blue.

Thanks


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## detailR (Jul 23, 2016)

What's your technique like?

Working area, machine speed, arm speed, number of passes, etc.

Have you got a photo of the area before and after you sanded and polished it?


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## M3_Crazy_Dude (Dec 17, 2008)

detailR said:


> What's your technique like?
> 
> Working area, machine speed, arm speed, number of passes, etc.
> 
> Have you got a photo of the area before and after you sanded and polished it?


Here you go...


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## M3_Crazy_Dude (Dec 17, 2008)

detailR said:


> What's your technique like?
> 
> Working area, machine speed, arm speed, number of passes, etc.
> 
> Have you got a photo of the area before and after you sanded and polished it?


Bonnet
On Max speed of 6
Very slow passes / multiple times to make a hatch pattern

I'm afraid I don't have any before pics.

Thanks


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## st33ly (Aug 29, 2010)

Those look like 2500 grit that’s been pressed to hard and not enough lube. It obviously needs cut deeper I just hope you have enough clear coat to cut to the bottom of the grooves, otherwise it’ll be strike through. No massive deal if you do it’ll just mean a trip to a good bodyshop. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ultra (Feb 25, 2006)

Regardless of what technique etc.. what pictures can't tell you is how clear you have left, you can chase perfection with the same combo but the risk is on you.


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## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

I've never had an issue removing 2000 grit with Megs 105 on a Yellow hex logic pad so perhaps got need to up the aggressiveness of the pad here. Perhaps going for a hybrid wool one might help with the BMW clear, but ultimately yes, you may have pressed too hard and done too much damage for the amount of clear you have.

I'd try a more agressive pad first though.


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## cangri (Feb 25, 2011)

Those look to deep for a 2000 or 3000 grit.
looks like you applied to much pressure.

If you have enough clearcoat left. go with 3000 again, but don`t put pressure.


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## Ennoch (Jan 31, 2006)

What paper were you using? I got some stuff last year when everything was out of stock but managed to use my original, known quantity stuff at the time. It's only recently that I've come to use the stuff that I got last year, and truth be told, it's garbage. The 1500 cuts like 800, the 2000 cuts like 1000 and the 2500 cuts like 1200. Conversely the 3000 doesn't do anything at all. This meant I had a load of 1200 grit scratches, not to mention the fact it seemed to have bits where additional 'cuts' in the paint appeared as you have above. So I went and bought more of the stuff I normally use and problem solved.

One key I've found with wet sanding is to get some good soapy solution (as you'd use for claying) in a trigger bottle and ensure the surface is wet constantly as this not only helps keep the surface lubricated but also clears debris you've created by sanding the paint.


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## Rundie (Oct 2, 2007)

3000 grit is very forgiving and leaves an even 'haze' at worst ?


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## jetbox (Jul 12, 2009)

Farecla g3


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

So a few things, defects dont always come out on the first try, it doesnt matter how many '''manufacturers'' show nice videos of a very evenly machine sanded panels, a proper flatted panel has very different defects in it. So always expect to need multiple hits, at the very least to dog out strays

It might not be 3000 you are looking at, it could be one of your first sanding sets that hasnt been removed later on. So be prepared to sand some more

Swap from foam too at least microfibre, its not about how much they cut, but '''how'' they cut

Smaller areas increases cutting power, so dont over work an area


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## NorthantsPete (May 18, 2016)

are you sure its 2000/3000? they look like a sandpaper i have which says its 1500 grit but its more like 800-1000!

There is only one way forward, compound it. 

I messed up with some of this poor sandpaper, went to a rubbing paste, then ultimate compound but it still didnt quite get it hence the farcela g3 premium which did.

One panel i went too far with wet sanding the clearcoat overlap so it was easier to respray it, now waiting 2 weeks for it to dry before i can buff it out to a shine.

You'll get there, either with whatever compound you have in your cupboard but it may take a few goes.


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## NorthantsPete (May 18, 2016)

Ennoch said:


> What paper were you using? I got some stuff last year when everything was out of stock but managed to use my original, known quantity stuff at the time. It's only recently that I've come to use the stuff that I got last year, and truth be told, it's garbage. The 1500 cuts like 800, the 2000 cuts like 1000 and the 2500 cuts like 1200. Conversely the 3000 doesn't do anything at all. This meant I had a load of 1200 grit scratches


This is what i was saying. When the megs didnt do it i went to Farecla for some serious cutting ability and a light wet sand of real 2000 paper.


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