# Final Aquartz review + Lotus Exige Scura



## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Hi all! So some of you may remember my initial Aquartz review on a rosso scuderia Scudeia a while back but for those who didn't here's a recap: The car wasn't polished because I wanted to test Aquartz's claims that it covers 50% of scratches. There's no way to measure exactly how much it covered, but it did an exceptional job at it. It also gave a very nice, slick and wet finish so round 1 got a :thumb: from me. Round 2 however was a different story. And thank you again Avi for the samples !

The next car I tested Aquartz on was a rosso corsa 599 GTB HTGE. I spent about 2 days removing Guido's carvings in the paint, then proceeded with the Aquartz application. During the application I didn't use my "close inspection" lights because the car had already been IPA wiped and I didn't really need it to apply the LSP. I applied the Aquartz as instructed then went on to apply the Aquartz+ with a finishing pad @ about 900 RPM. Nice and slow, no pressure... After all the Aquartz+ was removed I broke out my final inspection lamp to check for residue, etc. Holograms everywhere!!!!  :wall: I was furious to say the least and just to make sure that it was the Aquartz+ that was causing the holograms, I turned on my Splinter Cell headlamp and had a go at it under close inspection... Yep, it was from the Aquartz! It took me 3+ hours to remove the Aquartz and get the finish perfect again...

I spoke to Avi about this problem and decided that I would give Aquartz another shot, but this time applying it in a different manner. The next car I did was a dark, metallic gray Porsche Cayanne. After polishing I applied Aquartz with a MF, like the instructions say, and noticed that no matter how many times I wiped the surface with a clean MF, it was still "greasy" and just basically smeared all about. So then I broke out the heat gun to speed things up a bit (like in the video) and still couldn't get that greasy  layer to come off. The more I wiped, the more it smeared... :wall: If you watch this video, PAY ATTENTION TO THE GLOVES WHEN HE WIPS PAST THE LIGHT AROUND 2:46 and you will see the "trails" of grease that I'm talking about. I hope I'm not the only one that sees them... This looks like hell on any finish, especially a solid finish.






The next car I tested Aquartz on was a dark blue (forgot the official name of it...) 760 BMW. This time I thought OK, so I guess the Aquartz+ "accelerator" is what makes the Aquartz cure quicker, which probably means it will help dry up the oily residue that's left behind. being gun-shy from the last debacle with AQ+, I decided to use a DA and take it nice and slow. After the removal of AQ+ I broke out the "crime light" to inspect... The only thing that AQ+ "accelerated" was my temper because that layer of greasy residue was still on the car ! Luckily these 2 cars were metallic so the "smears" weren't very visible, but I knew they were there, tarnishing the perfect finish that I had achieved...

The next and final test with Aquartz was a durability test on my own car: A white Fiat Punto (no need to worry about seeing grease trails on that finish ). This was actually a battle of the nanos test because on the left side of the hood was Nanolex Professional (cheers Florian ). On the right side of the hood was my new nano sealant (we'll call it "Secret") and on the roof was Aquartz. In the next video you'll see the "rain test" that I used to check the sheeting properties. Doing a sheeting test with an open-ended hose and a constant, slow stream of water proves nothing when testing a wax's sheeting capabilities. After all, when's the last time it rained in "sheets of water"? Nanolex and Aquartz both had very nice sheeting properties. I was especially impressed with Aquartz though, because it was on a horizontal roof and still sheeted exceptionally well. The Secret is a super-hydrophobic sealant so beading was very tight and sheeting was fast. Out of the other 2 I noticed that Aquartz sheeted a bit faster than Nanolex. I suppose all 3 had just _about_ the same amount of water on them after the "rain", but there's no real way to judge that.






Being that pH neutral snow-foams are as useless as knockers on a nun, I mix my snow-foam with a good dose of APC to help degrease things, so I fingered, "What better test than to wash the car with APC?" And a heavy mix of APC to boot... 1:1 Chemical Guys Orange Degreaser. All 3 sealants were allowed to cure for 24 hours (I think it was actually 48) before this test. The car was washed with a MF mitt and a good amount of pressure to "manhandle" things a bit, then rinsed and then washed with normal shampoo to remove any residue from the APC. The Nanolex and Secret side still had adequate water sheeting though it was obvious that both of them had taken a good beating. Lots of water drops remained on the surface after the sheeting, but after a beating like that I didn't expect them to sheet that well. Nonetheless they survived so good job Nanolex! The Aquartz side however, showed almost 0 sheeting after the beating. I thought that perhaps it wasn't sheeting because of the horizontal surface, but even after a short drive the water just sat there. I didn't take pictures or make a video of it because to put it simply, it really doesn't matter. I can post pictures of the surface after wet sanding it if I want and tell you that's what it looked like after APC wash, so I guess this is one of those "believe it or not" situations. Anyway, it's a white car and by that time the light was bad, so...

So my conclusion was that it left a less than desirable finish (being nice when I say that) and didn't stand up to the durability test. Therefore I can't recommend this product, especially if you're doing a solid-colored car. I know Gordon (Caledonia) has also done some testing with this product and he had positive results and out of respect for him I shant question his findings. Avi I would also ask the same of you about my findings because they are non-biased.

Recently my integrity as a detailer was questioned by basically I wasn't competent enough to read the instructions and that I applied it incorrectly. There's only so many ways to skin a cat... Here's a couple videos and some videos I made today of applying Aquartz on a Lotus Exige Scura >>





































After polishing



















There were still some deeper scratches and pits in the finish but hologram and swirl-free. Here's a video of the test area >>






And here's me applying Aquartz exactly the way they do in the video. Actually it gave me some even "stranger" results this time other than the usual "grease trails". The first time I applied it I thought maybe I didn't apply enough, so I went back and sprayed more on and the results were the same. Every time my rag touched a spot on the car it transfered more Aquartz to the finish that couldn't be removed easily.






On a lighter note, I did find one good use for Aquartz...










It worked quite well on the ragtop .


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

Very good and full review. Interesting results too. It'll be interesting to see how others users find the info. :thumb:




One last thing Jesse, what was the sample you sent me a few months ago?


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

amiller said:


> Very good and full review. Interesting results too. It'll be interesting to see how others users find the info. :thumb:
> 
> One last thing Jesse, what was the sample you sent me a few months ago?


Thanks Andrew . I'm sure there will be some naysayers and people telling me that I didn't do it right, but what I found is what I found. That would be an older sample of "Secret" . Like it?


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

Very thorough and indepth review, I did wonder whether the climate may make a difference, but I guess Cyprus and Hungary are not a million miles away from each other, not like the difference between Scotland and Hungary.

I'll follow this with interest because the product does look good but I have metallic black paint and suffer with product residue, even with some sealants that tend to remove fairly cleanly.


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

Clever Nickname said:


> Thanks Andrew . I'm sure there will be some naysayers and people telling me that I didn't do it right, but what I found is what I found. That would be an older sample of "Secret" . Like it?


I'm sure you do appreciate that alot of problems do stem from not applying products correctly, I'm sure Aquartz can make any suggestions and you can try them out if they differ from the method used.


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Neil_S said:


> I'm sure you do appreciate that alot of problems do stem from not applying products correctly, I'm sure Aquartz can make any suggestions and you can try them out if they differ from the method used.


Thanks mate :thumb:! I've tried every way possible to apply this product and still can't get satisfactory results. The bad smearing on the Scura was actually out of the ordinary and I don't know why it reacted that way, but nonetheless it's another problem I've encountered with this product so I thought I'd share.


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

Interesting result with the APC too, specifically because Gordon had done some reviews with some nasty concoctions and the conclusion appeared to be that the coating had stood up.

It makes me wonder if the Acquartz 'took' to the paint properly with the APC test result and the greasy appearance on the paint.


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Neil_S said:


> Interesting result with the APC too, specifically because Gordon had done some reviews with some nasty concoctions and the conclusion appeared to be that the coating had stood up.
> 
> It makes me wonder if the Acquartz 'took' to the paint properly with the APC test result and the greasy appearance on the paint.


Yeah, but Gordon didn't agitate the APC... Just like with my snow-foam+APC mix it won't harm the LSP if there's no agitation, but once you agitate it, it cuts. Just like a knife: You can press on the blade almost as hard as you want and it won't cut you, but as soon as you move... slice!


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

I've sent a text to Gordon and I'm sure he'll be along to respond/assist when he can.

Alan W


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## Aeroandy (Sep 2, 2009)

I looked at the video of you applying it, and it doesn't look like you worked it into the paint long enough. When I apply Aquartz I use a DA with a soft foam pad then after a few min I stop and wipe with a MF until its clear. 

I also tend to use less product than you did so I get a nice thin coat. 

Anyway, that's how I apply Aquartz and haven't had issues with it. 

When I get to the Aquartz+ step, I apply it with a MF applicator then when I have a thin coat I use the heat gun (hair dryer) then wait an hour then buff off with a clean foam pad on the DA until its all removed.


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Aeroandy said:


> I looked at the video of you applying it, and it doesn't look like you worked it into the paint long enough. When I apply Aquartz I use a DA with a soft foam pad then after a few min I stop and wipe with a MF until its clear.
> 
> I also tend to use less product than you did so I get a nice thin coat.
> 
> ...


Well actually there wasn't anything left to "work in" because it was almost completely dry when I stopped. I will attribute its strange behavior to the fiberglass panel of the car though (I've not seen it do that before). Perhaps it "sucked in" the product more than a clearcoat would, but nonetheless that's another reason I can't get on with it... I also apply my LSP's extremely thin, but I purposely applied more this time just as in the video to make sure there were no qualms about the way I applied it.


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Alan W said:


> I've sent a text to Gordon and I'm sure he'll be along to respond/assist when he can.
> 
> Alan W


Cheers Alan! Though I'm really not looking for help with the application . I'm merely stating what I've found because with the 6 cars that I've treated with Aquartz I still haven't had one come out with the finish I was looking for. I've tried every way of applying it...


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## Aeroandy (Sep 2, 2009)

Clever Nickname said:


> Well actually there wasn't anything left to "work in" because it was almost completely dry when I stopped. I will attribute its strange behavior to the fiberglass panel of the car though (I've not seen it do that before). Perhaps it "sucked in" the product more than a clearcoat would, but nonetheless that's another reason I can't get on with it... I also apply my LSP's extremely thin, but I purposely applied more this time just as in the video to make sure there were no qualms about the way I applied it.


Wonder if you got a bad batch possibly?


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Aeroandy said:


> Wonder if you got a bad batch possibly?


Dunno, but I was sent 2 different bottles... Again, its behavior on the Lotus today was a bit out of the ordinary, but my other major problem with it is that it leaves a greasy film behind it which tarnishes a perfectly polished finish. Take a look at the video again and pay close attention to the "trails" the the glove leaves behind it. Look right where the light is shining and you'll see what I'm taking about


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

No problem Jesse! :thumb:

I'm just hoping that Gordon can identify something in your application technique that may help you to achieve the results that he achieves.

From what I've seen AQuartz is an impressive product, especially with it's swirl filling capabilities.

Alan W


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Alan W said:


> No problem Jesse! :thumb:
> 
> I'm just hoping that Gordon can identify something in your application technique that may help you to achieve the results that he achieves.
> 
> ...


Ah I see . The swirl filling properties are certainly impressive and so are Gordon's tests, but it's lacking the most important thing in my book and that's the ability to deliver a perfect, streak-free finish. Imagine that you have a wax that constantly sweats, no matter what the conditions and no matter what you do you can't remove it... that's how I feel about Aquartz.


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## Culainn (Sep 2, 2009)

Dont have any opinion on Aquartz because i haven't used it but wanted to congratulate you on the write up. Its very indepth so thanks for sharing. :thumb:


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

Jesse,

Gordon has replied to my text and will be along shortly.

Crack open a cold one and settle down for an interesting reply! :lol:

Alan W


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Alan W said:


> Jesse,
> 
> Gordon has replied to my text and will be along shortly.
> 
> ...


 Cheers!


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

Clever Nickname said:


> Cheers!


Hey, nobody wants to see you frustrated with a product if at all possible. 

Alan W


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Late as usual. But having a bite to eat when post came live.

Hi Jesse

Thanks for posting up your findings and I am slightly confused as to the results here.

Although my test was not done on a flat black finish there was certainly no signs of holograming displayed in your post. My initial thoughts where lake of product in the first instance and not enough to form a uniform coverage of the area. But when you applied your second application and more product. This would have only caused more issues due to the product re invigorating the first coat and softening this. Once the product drys, it cannot re cure if you catch my drift on this one.

Certainly when I applied the Aquartz it almost disappeared into the finish and there was nothing more required than a light wipe over. I know there can be issues with over application of Aquartz and also it is a nightmare to remove if it goes wrong also. But this was not the case in your video.

But lets not over look the paint also. There has been a number of posts made in the past about darker coloured finishes suffering from pitting due to the high level of UV damage experience, by these paint types. It might be the case the finish has suffer this and in turn the product is within these hollows and by wiping over it continually transfers this product.

The same instances can be created with certain glaze like product and continual transfer of the oils across the finish. I know you will probably have a higher UV factor over there than here. But yet again the product comes originally from SE Asia.

Could it also be possible Jesse and I am just trying to get a grasp of this also.
Atmospheric conditions. Humidity and the like.???

I will look into this and try and source a dark coloured panel, over the next few days, and conduct a good few more tests. I have been rushed off my feet recently and not had much of a chance to play around with the tests.

My initial application was 4 short blasts from approx 10 inches from the surfaces and worked in with one MF turned. Buffed more then changed to a fresh one. I continued to do so till no remnants where left or visible.

I will keep you posted Jesse on this and see what I can find out myself.

Regards
Gordon.


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

caledonia said:


> Late as usual. But having a bite to eat when post came live.
> 
> Hi Jesse
> 
> ...


Hi Gordon!

Thanks for the input mate . Well as I've stated before, the results on this particular finish were a bit out of the ordinary. For some reason this fiberglass didn't agree at all with Aquartz and left a much more dramatic finish than what I got on the others (less the holograms on the 599 :wall. I thoroughly read your findings with durability and they were quite impressive, but for me durability is not really my main concern (though also important); it's the finish that I can't get on with. I'm not sure about climate differences but I won't cancel that out totally. It just leaves a really greasy finish and on the finishes that I work with on a regular basis, it's unacceptable. I've tried and tried... Please keep my abreast if you do a solid-colored car, as I'm very curious if you see the same "smearing" that I do!

- Jesse


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Will do M8 no problem.
Gordon.


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## Cquartz (Jan 31, 2009)

Hi Jesse -

Firstly thank you for trying the Aquartz range - Im sorry to see that you have experienced problems with the product - This could be down to various aspects which I will try and eliminate to see if we can find a solution as to why you achieved this result as this is not the normal with Aquartz

From how i see in the video on the lotus you sprayed and smeared the aquartz,I did inform you that you must spray and then buff straight off as written in the instructions- you have made a few circles but it does not look as if you have buff for long enough it must be done with a nice pressure even. im sure it dried ,you left it but it looks as if you have sprayed again which means you covered the first coat again- it looks as if the second sprayed coat ,you make few circles wiping again , but means covered the smearing from first coat. So as i have suggested before please follow my instructions and my tips as this is very important to get the correct application of Aquartz or the results may be as you have encountered

The preferred method is by microfiber and you must buff very hard to work Aquartz in - It must then cure properly ( with heat) before you apply a second coat.

Did you work in a warm environment ?What was the surface temp.? and heat the panels before coast etcs

The cloths that you applied with what make were these? were those new?

As we know pictures are very difficult to tell what finish a panel has etc ?

With regards to your sheeting test - I would like some more information if possible

Aquartz react like a cement , to fully cure you need like 7 days , the first 24 hours is only top layer dry, what you have done with the APC is striping it off abrasively, especialy the Aquartz+,
This product has been tested to a high standard and your results do not conclude to these tests - I would like to send your results to labs for further investigations . Could you send me more information by email please.

We are very sorry to hear about your findings and if you can work alongside us will try and look into why this has happened which could be a number of things from poor application , conditions to even perhaps a faulty batch of products . I am even ready to sponser you a trip to Gordon to see how it really should be applied , so you will learn it the right way

further more, i will post a video today , a detailer pro application way, from our official dealer in Slovenia, Gregor Gasparic. (your neighbor)
Gregor is one of *THE* master experts in Aquartz , done until now at least 50 cars with Aquartz , and he is doing it for his living.
we will show how aquartz can be applied by rotary machine and wool pad!! 
not regular wool pad. so you could see another way how aquartz can be applied.
Im here to help please contact me so that i can try and resolve how you are working with aquartz.
cheers
Avi


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## HighPerformer (Mar 6, 2010)

Clever Nickname you definately have here a application mistake, i think you have a too diry towel it look's greasy and you need a real buffing towel, not so a poor microfiber, the application time is also too short.

Cheers
HP


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Aquartz said:


> Hi Jesse -
> 
> Firstly thank you for trying the Aquartz range - Im sorry to see that you have experienced problems with the product - This could be down to various aspects which I will try and eliminate to see if we can find a solution as to why you achieved this result as this is not the normal with Aquartz
> 
> ...


Hi AVi,

As I've stated before in this post, the results I got yesterday with the Lotus were a bit out of the ordinary, but nonetheless disappointing. When I sprayed the Aquartz on I immediately started to buff it of and I buffed until it there was nothing left to buff. For the small area that I did, the couple of sprays was more than enough. It left smears in the paint which you can see on the video so I sprayed a bit more to try and "blend" them in a bit. The surface improved with the second, immediate application, but was still unsatisfactory. If the first layer has to be cured with a heat gun, then the 5 seconds I waited between my first and second layers makes no difference. Also, being that Aquartz is a water-based sealant, the few seconds between sprays should make absolutely no difference in the drying time.



Aquartz said:


> The preferred method is by microfiber and you must buff very hard to work Aquartz in - It must then cure properly ( with heat) before you apply a second coat.


A microfiber is exactly what I used :thumb:. And a very fine one at that. You say it has to be buffed "hard" to work it in but in the video it says "Immediately wipe on gently..." So by "buffing very hard" with a microfiber towel on this Lotus Scura surface will scratch it very badly, that's certain. The same goes for other finishes the other colors that I work with like nero, rosso corsa, etc. These finishes show everything... Yes, pressure must be used to apply nano, as it bonds to the paint much better this way but perhaps you should suggest using a foam applicator because it's much safer than a MF.

The temperature of the panel was cool as was the temperature outside. The MF I used has been used a couple of times, but relatively new. The panel on this particular car is fiberglass and the finish is sort of a plasti-coating like on A-pillars of cars (AFAIK).

The sheeting was very good, that's no doubt. Very thorough and quite fast for a hydrophilic coating. Thumbs up for that :thumb:! As far as information for you to send to the labs, I've pretty much written everything down here so perhaps you can just copy it.

Yes, the test I did was performed specifically to see how easily the sealants would come off with abrasion ! Just as with my "rain" test, I tried to conduct the durability test in a manner which most closely represents "average use and abuse" of a vehicle. The tests Gordon carried out yielded very important information about how your sealant reacts to over-exposure of harsh chemicals. In a real-life situation this experiment can be compared to the effects bird droppings would have on a finish, or perhaps if someone was to vandalize the car with chemicals, etc. Therefore, yes his tests were unquestionably helpful to you and to other users of this product... but one isolated test does not cover the rest of the elements that would damage your finish, which is why I chose to cover the "abrasion washing" part of Aquartz. Compare it to a Samurai sword. You can grab the blade almost as hard as you want and it won't cut you, but the second there's friction your hand will burst open! The catalysts that Gordon used in his tests were "sharpened blades" but with no "cutting power". Would the results be different if he'd agitated it a bit? I think so.

A rough hand wash with harsh chemicals could be compared to some washes in the automatic car wash, couldn't it? Or perhaps to several washes at "Jim Bob's Hand Wash" where they still use dish soap to wash your car, right? That's right it could :thumb:! Sometimes my customers don't have time to wait for me to wash their cars, which is exactly why I chose this type of testing with Aquartz... to see how "hack-proof" it was.

So as I've mentioned already, the results on the Scura were out of the ordinary... it didn't do that on the other cars BUT this was just an example of my qualms with the product. My major problem with the product is that it leaves a greasy finish that can not be removed! My customers have very high standards and I think you know why. Therefore if my standards were not much higher than theirs, I would not be in business.

No matter what I say or do, you guys will always try to place the blame on something other than your product. My application is wrong, I didn't wipe it in the right direction, I didn't wipe it hard enough, I didn't wipe it long enough, I didn't let it dry long enough, I didn't use the right kind of microfiber, it was too hot, too cold, Uranus and the moon were out of alignment and so on and so forth... Why can't you just accept the fact that someone doesn't get on with your product? Also, if you'd like to send me to Scotland to go and hang out with Dave and Gordon I'd love to go , but I don't think it would change the way Aquartz behaves.

*Please look at this video again and forward it to 2:46* When you watch it, stare directly at the reflection of light on the boot and don't take your eyes off it! I have excellent vision (20/15 to be exact) but you do not need eagle eyes to see that even after the removal of Aquartz+, the product still leaves streaks of grease!! Also, please pause it at 2:56 and you will see a huge streak! If this was on a solid black car, how would it look?


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

HighPerformer said:


> Clever Nickname you definately have here a application mistake, i think you have a too diry towel it look's greasy and you need a real buffing towel, not so a poor microfiber, the application time is also too short.
> 
> Cheers
> HP


Hi HP,

Thanks for the insight . The towel is perfectly clean first of all. Second, it's a very fine quality buffing towel, not something from Tesco. Please see the picture >>










Also, the application time was cut short because there was nothing left to "apply"... it was either dried up or soaked in. Instead of saying the results were caused by my incompetence let's look at the video more closely and see if we can deduct something other than user error, shall we?






Come on now guys, let's come up with something a little better than "...application time is also too short" and "dirty towels" because those excuses are just reaching a little too far... I mean really, if this product is THAT sensitive why would anyone want to use it? I've seen at least 10 different ways to apply this product and out of the 6 that I've tried, you guys are really telling me that I'm still doing it wrong?


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## Aeroandy (Sep 2, 2009)

Clever Nickname said:


> Dunno, but I was sent 2 different bottles... Again, its behavior on the Lotus today was a bit out of the ordinary, but my other major problem with it is that it leaves a greasy film behind it which tarnishes a perfectly polished finish. Take a look at the video again and pay close attention to the "trails" the the glove leaves behind it. Look right where the light is shining and you'll see what I'm taking about
> 
> YouTube- aquartz hand apply.wmv


I've not had the issues you have had, so I'm only trying to figure out whats happening.

I can see what your talking about, its that I haven't seen that in my testing of Aquartz. To me, it looks like your not working it long enough because I work it 3-4min on a DA then buff with a MF towel. It does take effort to buff even after the DA. Since I can't tell how much effort your applying in the video, its my observation.

If I had a video camera, I'd show you how I do it, but I don't. I'm not trying to disrespect you, just trying to figure out what went wrong so we can all learn from it.


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Gordon, I've just now read your post on Autopia, please see what I mentioned about your tests above. My intention wasn't to belittle your tests in any way, mate . Just merely trying to get my point across that the protection factor is not my main concern because despite what I say people still refer back to how well it protects :thumb:. Sorry if it came out the wrong way !


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Aeroandy said:


> I've not had the issues you have had, so I'm only trying to figure out whats happening.
> 
> I can see what your talking about, its that I haven't seen that in my testing of Aquartz. To me, it looks like your not working it long enough because I work it 3-4min on a DA then buff with a MF towel. It does take effort to buff even after the DA. Since I can't tell how much effort your applying in the video, its my observation.
> 
> If I had a video camera, I'd show you how I do it, but I don't. I'm not trying to disrespect you, just trying to figure out what went wrong so we can all learn from it.


Cheers Andy . As stated above, there's nothing left to work in after I stop. You can see proof of this when I try to polish out the spot on the right of the car. It doesn't budge an inch. Also, this was an isolated incident. My MAIN concern is the oily residue it leaves.


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## WHIZZER (Oct 25, 2005)

Clever Nickname said:


> .
> 
> No matter what I say or do, you guys will always try to place the blame on something other than your product. My application is wrong, I didn't wipe it in the right direction, I didn't wipe it hard enough, I didn't wipe it long enough, I didn't let it dry long enough, I didn't use the right kind of microfiber, it was too hot, too cold, Uranus and the moon were out of alignment and so on and so forth... Why can't you just accept the fact that someone doesn't get on with your product? Also, if you'd like to send me to Scotland to go and hang out with Dave and Gordon I'd love to go , but I don't think it would change the way Aquartz behaves.


Jesse Tbh this is an obvious response to find out the reasons behind why a products does not work perhaps as you believe it should A supplier will first look at applications , quantity and so -Avi looks from his response as if he is trying to work with you and look further to see why you got the results that you did - Yes products work for some and others dont - A perfect example would be Zaino - over application is a common problem - even i was surprised about how little you really need not that im saying your technique is wrong.

If you dont get on with the product thats fine your decision as far a greasy finish could this be to do with what polishes you perhaps used ? I think Avi is trying to understand why this has happened on this car

Was the car resprayed ? Is the paint new ? there are so many factors that can cause issues and trying to find out why would be useful rather than just saying the above .


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## Aeroandy (Sep 2, 2009)

Clever Nickname said:


> Cheers Andy . My MAIN concern is the oily residue it leaves.


I see that, but I haven't seen any reside, oily or otherwise when I apply Aquartz.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Your panel is too warm and is causing the product to cure too quickly. What is the air temp? and is the panel cold to touch?

I had this with the Golf first time round. Put some cold water on it or some ice wrapped on a towel to really cool it down. 

Plus you really need to work it in, I know you say nothing is left but two or three wipes isn't enough. 

I have flat black and if you look at my post it is flawless, as I say I did face this but my panel was simply too warm.


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## Techgeek (Jun 7, 2007)

I had problems applying to a warm panel, but got round it by changing technique. goes on great in the cold for me.


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## quattrogmbh (May 15, 2007)

I can't believe it would be down to the heat of the panel alone.. How does Avi and his customers down there in the southern Med cope?


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Guys I really appreciate all the support you all offer . I would ask (Bill) to close this thread though, as I feel it will only lead to more frustrations...


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

quattrogmbh said:


> I can't believe it would be down to the heat of the panel alone.. How does Avi and his customers down there in the southern Med cope?


You can't apply to a warm panel I tried this after I took the car a drive and experienced what Jesse did.

In the med they will have a/c it's like heating for northerners, not many products will work in that heat


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## Cquartz (Jan 31, 2009)

Dear Jesse
as i have said above nobody is critising your application - All i am trying to do is help to understand why you seem to have got this result as it obviously not normal for Aquartz. If you supply me with as much information it will help me understand and the labs to see "why" the product seems to have worked out badly for you.


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## WHIZZER (Oct 25, 2005)

Clever Nickname said:


> Guys I really appreciate all the support you all offer . I would ask (Bill) to close this thread though, as I feel it will only lead to more frustrations...


On that note will close the thread


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