# tips for applying menzerna



## Aaran (Sep 18, 2007)

any tips for using this stuff? mine just arrived in to post 

Menzerna Final Finish PO85RD

should i start with a finishing pad to see of that removes the swirls in my paint first? or should i start with my orange cut pad? 

what sort of rpm should my rotary be set to initialy and what sort of rpm should it be finished on? my machine has a soft start function and rpm varys from 1000 up to 3000 (all those in between etc)

i remember some people say this stuff somtimes refuses to "play" depending on the conditions its used in? any other tips you can think of? i have a few pratice bits but i though i would ask before being let loose on it :lol:

cheers


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

When the polish is broken down properly you should have a clear surface. If it is oily ( Menzerna uses both oil and wax for paint surface lubrication) then either too much polish was used or the diminishing abrasives were not sufficiently broken down, if you don’t allow the polish to haze as it diminishes the abrasives, stopping to soon, is like rubbing sand paper across the paint

These polishes were designed to work in the controlled temperature / humidity environment of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line, note that silicone has an adverse effect on the oils used for surface lubrication and can cause the polish to smear, also be aware that working outside you may have issues like excess humidity, heat, cold, etc that will affect there performance especially with the Nano polish (105FF) as it uses wax as a lubricant (colder temps may cause the wax to harden) 

It should also be noted that these polishes use oil in water emulsion for lubrication; if you are using a polymer after polishing it will be necessary to wipe-down the paint surface with Menzerna Top Inspection or a 1:1 solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. 

Final Polish (PO85U) FP will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0 - gloss 4.0, 1200 RPM -White LC CCS foam pad)


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## kk1966 (Aug 8, 2007)

TOGWT said:


> When the polish is broken down properly you should have a clear surface. If it is oily ( Menzerna uses both oil and wax for paint surface lubrication) then either too much polish was used or the diminishing abrasives were not sufficiently broken down, if you don't allow the polish to haze as it diminishes the abrasives, stopping to soon, is like rubbing sand paper across the paint
> 
> These polishes were designed to work in the controlled temperature / humidity environment of a vehicle manufacturer's paint shop finishing line, note that silicone has an adverse effect on the oils used for surface lubrication and can cause the polish to smear, also be aware that working outside you may have issues like excess humidity, heat, cold, etc that will affect there performance especially with the Nano polish (105FF) as it uses wax as a lubricant (colder temps may cause the wax to harden)
> 
> ...


Now that what i call some 'tip'. Excellent advice:thumb:


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## Aaran (Sep 18, 2007)

wow.

more more guv'na!

would a megs no3 paint cleaner remove the excess oil? i was planning on using smart sealent then finishing the bmw in dodo banana amour. according to the back of the smart bottle its polymers etc combined the canna wax and oils? (souds more like a wax than a sealent to me....) or would somthing like autoglym srp be a better on the top polish after the menz?


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## dazerc (May 28, 2007)

Can you apply menzerna by hand? or is it too much work?


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## Paul-T (Nov 2, 2006)

Just to say, you don't 'apply' Menzerna, its a polish - you work it. Finishing products are 'applied'.

Yes you could use the finishing polishes by hand, although you'll have a hard time and don't expect to do much in the way of defect correction.

Aaran. The IPA mentioned is cheap and easily available from chemists and you literally just use it as a panel wipe. I have no idea what product you are talking about, but its quite possible to have a sealant that contains carnuba as well - Chemical Guys Blitz sealant is another example.


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

dazerc said:


> Can you apply menzerna by hand? or is it too much work?


Yes - but best results by hand will come from using the old style Menzerna polishes such as Menzerna PO91L Intensive Polish. This contains a brittle abrasive which can effective be broken down by hand and affords a decent cut as well - wont match the time in which a machine can cut through the swirls, but it will deliver noticeable results. Work it with firm pressure until the residue goes clear and you stop hearing a sandy noise.

Cerami-clears use a stronger abrasive, in that breaking it down takes more effort, so I would avoid using them by hand personally.


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## dazerc (May 28, 2007)

Thanks for the help i have got the PO91L so hopfully it should break down ok with a bit of effort. i've got all day Sat to detail my car in my Garage. just need to get a UDM when the UK versions out.


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## Aaran (Sep 18, 2007)

well i had my first go at using my cheap ass rotary and the menz 

results are awesome, and i did not even put a buffer trail or damage the paint with it 

anywya just a few questions about menz.

how much should i be using on a 4 or 6 polishing pad?
is it ok to use detailing spray to keep the menz moist, or is it supposed to dry out slightly as its worked?

when it says the polish go's clear, how clear should it be? like water, or like a gel?

i found the first 10 passes on the pannels removed all the little swirl marks, but some remained as they were a bit deeper, should i run over the pannel again? increase the rpm? increase the pad stiffness? 

none are visable to the eye, they are in the sun though, so im guessing they are not that deep?

also whats the best way to remove the excess product after its been buffed in? 

how long should i buff a peice of bodywork?

sorry for all the questions :lol:

cheers


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## Chris_4536 (Sep 20, 2006)

Aaran, try this guide from Dave KG;

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=27744&highlight=dave+kg+guide


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