# Optimum Polish II Review: Hidden Gem



## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

*Optimum Polish II: Review*
Hidden Gem








Paintwork correction is one of my very favorite things… Watching the paint transform, the challenge of finding a solution when something you tried didn't work out, learning the science behind different materials and different products, practicing the muscle memories of sanding and using various sorts of machines... I enjoy testing new ideas, and new pads and polishes in my spare time. Over the years, I've built up quite a collection of paintwork correction tools and products. However, if someone asked me, "If you could only have one polish or compound, what would it be?", my reply would be: "Optimum Polish II.". I probably wouldn't even hesitate…

The interesting thing is, I had a very rocky start with this polish… I picked up a bottle many, many years ago. Long before I got my first DA; when I was still working exclusively by hand. I wanted a polish that fit in between Meguiar's #205 and #105, as it seemed crazy that I had to use a compound to tackle light swirls when hand polishing (Being very much a newbie at that stage.). For hours I worked, and I worked, but I was _gutted_ when it didn't really seem to be correcting as much as even M205… OP-II has a very viscous, gel-like lubricant, and by hand on an orange Lake Country CCS hand pad, I couldn't really work it hard enough to overcome the hydraulic buffering effect of the lubricant to get the abrasives to bite. Because of this, when I finally got my old Meguiar's G110 V2, I _almost_ didn't try it again… It just sat on my shelf, gathering dust, until one summer when the heat and humidity were absolutely insane, and all my Meguiar's and Menzerna polishes became utterly unworkable. Then, out of desperation, I gave that almost forgotten bottle a second chance. That moment totally changed my view on Optimum Polymer Technologies Polish II, and a bottle has never left my possession since…

*What is it? *​
Optimum Polish II is a _Non-Diminishing_ heavy 1-step polish, with a P1500 abrasive rating (The coarsest grit of sanding scratches it will remove on a heavy cutting wool pad.). Its cutting capability is similar to that of Scholl Concepts S17+, Scholl S20 Black, or Menzerna Medium Cut MC2200 (Formerly PO85RD3.02 Super Intensive Polish.). Only slightly behind a light professional compound, like Meguiar's D300, and just nudging ahead of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound.

However, being a non-diminishing polish ('SMAT' in Meguiar's marketing lingo.), OP-II offers a great deal more flexibility and control over its direct diminishing-abrasive rivals from Germany. As the abrasives remain a consistent size throughout the set, you merely work it for as long, and with as much pressure as is required to remove the defects at hand. Thus, allowing you to avoid removing more material than strictly needed. When you're ready, you can simply reduce pressure to refine the finish.

Optimum Polish II is very pad dependent, and can be used equally well on a soft foam finishing pad as a finishing polish, as it can on wool or microfiber for removing heavier defects. Likewise, it is very tolerant of different machines, and has worked great on the short-throw DA's, standard-throw DA's, long-throw DA's, forced-rotation DA's, and rotary buffers I've tested it with.








Instead of the glycerin and paraffinic-naphtha (A waxy heavy petroleum oil.) emulsion found in most polishes, Optimum uses a rather unique polymer and mineral oil waterborne emulsion. In use, this gives OP-II a seemingly limitless potential working time, without dusting or gumming up in virtually any condition above freezing. It also contributes to the very 'clean' feel of the polish, which is of a thick, gel-like consistency compared to the oilier creams from other brands. This makes the wipe-off characteristics supremely easy. The carrier breaks down readily in the presence of water, so simply wiping with a microfiber dampened with distilled water, ONR, or Opti-Clean is typically sufficient to check for filling, and also makes the wipe-off even easier yet. Given that many popular polishes require a petroleum solvent based panel wipe to fully strip, this alone is an impressive feature. The product is unscented, with a quite mild refined mineral oil smell.

The only downside to this sort of lubricant carrier is that it tends to separate over time, which limits its shelf life. However, this issue has gradually been improved over the years. It used to be that after 12-months the polish irrevocably separated, and no amount of shaking would re-mix it. For the past few years, shaking has been sufficient to re-mix the product when separation is observed after prolonged storage in my experience, though it is still something you should keep an eye on.

Given that Optimum Polish II still contains petroleum distillates, it still can react with solvent-intolerant paints or plastics. However, it is no worse - and often times better - than most other German or American polishes.

*Why Do I Like It So Much? *​
Firstly, my climate… Where I live is almost always either hot and humid, or cold and damp, which plays havoc with a lot of detailing products. Without climate control, Menzerna polishes gum, and ball up on me all but a few weeks out of the year… If I am lucky. Optimum Polish II is unfazed by all of it… It performs every bit as well outside, in temperatures over 100-degrees Fahrenheit (38+ degrees Celsius) with tropical levels of humidity, as it does in a climate-controlled environment. The performance remains consistent, no matter how hostile the climate, which makes it utterly reliable.

Secondly, the fact it is non-diminishing… Meguiar's, Optimum, and 3D are the main companies making non-diminishing polishes, and the flexibility this gives you to tackle defects _dynamically_ is extremely useful. Paint defects are rarely a consistent depth, and the ability to work a polish differently on different sections of paint with the same pad, lets you adapt to that inconsistency to achieve full correction without over-correcting. Also, if you have never polished a certain paint before, and are uncertain of how it will react, you can typically modify your technique with a non-diminishing polish to suit. With diminishing polishes, often it takes doing multiple test spots with different products before you can nail the perfect combinations.










[Removing Meguiar's Unigrit P3000 sanding marks in 4-passes @ 3800 OPM's with Meg's G110 V2 DA on Microfiber Finishing Pad.]​
Non-diminishing polishes also open up styles of polishing simply not possible with diminishing polishes… Short on time? Make a single pass with OP-II on a very heavy cutting pad with high pressure and speed over a large working area, then another 1-2 passes with a finishing pad to clean up the marring. Massive enhancement in less time than it takes to do a 1-step on a single pad with a diminishing polish, with no sacrifice in gloss. Paint too thin to polish normally? Single pass with light pressure on a fine pad at low speed, resulting in negligible material removal with a big boost in gloss. Have a RID in the middle of a lightly swirled panel? Use a heavy cutting pad, go on edge, dig it out, and then just make a few low-pressure, level passes over the rest of the panel to clean up the lighter defects.










[50/50 Correction; finish almost LSP ready on soft paint.]​
Diminishing abrasive (DAT) polishes have their strengths, and do some things better than non-diminishing ones (A few of which I will explain later in the review.)… However, when you need a flexible working style, non-diminishing abrasives are where it's at.

Thirdly, OP-II is probably the most intuitive, forgiving, and easiest to use polish I have ever encountered… This almost entirely comes down to the lubricant. When you start polishing, it very quickly turns semi-transparent, which allows you to physically see the defects you are correcting. You can watch them diminish and disappear, and stop or alter your technique accordingly. This makes it very friendly for a beginner. It is forgiving of pad priming, and whilst correct pad priming technique does help to maximize its performance, whether you apply four giant blobs of product, or fully prime the pad as per the Kevin Brown Method for non-diminishing polishes, it won't punish you too badly. It is also forgiving of high and low speed operation; it works well practically any way you use it.

OP-II is the most strongly _hydraulically buffered _abrasive polish I have ever used (For more information on hydraulic vs. structural isolation of abrasives, I will refer you to my Scholl Concepts NEO Honey Spider Pad review, where I go into this in more depth: https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=411082)… This makes it nearly useless by hand, but with a machine, means it is very tolerant of a huge variety of both open and closed cell foam, and textile pads. Likewise, it typically needs no special tricks or pads to finish down on anything but the craziest of soft paints. On a microfiber finishing pad, it finishes notably better than M205 (A combo that has grown popular for 1-stepping with detailers in the US.), whilst offering quite a lot more cut due to its coarser abrasives; all because of the strength of the fluid film of its lubricant. This makes it a lot easier to work with than some polishes, like Meguiar's, which rely more on structural isolation to help them finish to their maximum potential. Even when over-worked, OP-II absorbs the swarf well, and helps to protect the paint from swarf-related marring.










[Quick 2-Step: 1-2 passes w/OP-II on MF Cutting Pad, 1-2 Passes w/OP-II on LC HT Crimson Finishing pad. LSP in photo: Auto-Finesse Power Seal.]​
Fourthly, is smoothness and low operating temperature… Surface friction plays a massive part in the controllability and kickback of your machine, as well as the heat generated from polishing. OP-II is one of the smoothest, coolest running polishes on a wide variety of pads I have encountered… This makes it great for forced rotation DA's and long-throw DA's, which can have some nasty recoil when the pad starts gripping and slipping on the paint (A similar situation to 'pad hop' on a rotary.). Also, when rotary polishing, to help keep heat to an absolute minimum. It also makes it an amazing medium polish to work with on soft, 'sticky' paints and plastic panels.

Fifthly, and lastly, is the finish quality. All abrasive polishes impart a different 'look' upon the paint, and can enhance different aspects of the finish… Optimum Polish II's look is very colour-neutral (Borderline sterile, to be honest.), but clear and crisp, and is tied with Scholl S30+ and Menzerna SF3500 as being one of the best abrasive polishes for enhancing flake pop on metallics I have ever used. Even on tricky finishes, it's rare to find a situation where OP-II won't finish down when paired with the right pad.

*There Is No Perfect Polish *​
In physics every action has an equal and opposite reaction, and likewise for every strength, Optimum Polish II has its weaknesses.

Non-diminishing polishes and compounds all share a common downside compared to their diminishing abrasive brethren… For a given polishing cycle, on a single pad, directly equivalent modern rapid diminishing polishes have the potential to offer a better finish for an equivalent level of cut, in less time, and with less adjustment of technique than non-diminishing polishes. When I put OP-II against Scholl S17+ on a Rupes Medium Yellow Wool pad, removing P2000 grit sanding scratches, it takes me quite a few additional passes to level the finish with Optimum than Scholl. 1-Stepping with S20 Black is often more productive than OP-II, as the wider cut/finish window lets me step up my pad aggression an extra notch without sacrificing finish quality. That said, 2-stepping with non-diminishing polishes and compounds can sometimes be as fast or faster than 1-stepping with a diminishing polish; it just depends on the situation…

When used by hand, or if used by machine on the hardest paints, OP-II's strong hydraulic buffering can get in its own way, and you may find a different P1500 grade polish that offers just a little more 'bite' on a certain paint type. OP-II really does need working hard to get the best from it, and the more energy you can throw behind it with a powerful DA or rotary polisher on good pads, the better you'll like it.

At the end of the day, OP-II is still just a medium-heavy polish; not a compound… On hard to very hard paint, one of the latest medium compounds like Meguiar's M110 or Scholl S3+ XXL will be much more effective at filling a similar defect-removing role. However, on soft to medium paints that are easier to correct, you will almost never need more aggression than Optimum Polish II for almost any sort of defect you will face. If you do, it will probably be better tackled with wetsanding.

That amazing lubricant that makes Optimum Polish II so forgiving, also makes it more limited when pushed into extreme situations. If you encounter an incredibly soft paint or plastic that struggles to finish down, Optimum Polish II hits more of a wall than some polishes. If it isn't finishing down on its own, different pads and special techniques rarely can save it… M205, by comparison - whilst trickier to get the best from in the first place - can be coaxed into finishing on almost everything with the right pad and tricks if you're motivated. OP-II also does not respond well when misted with water, so you cannot use a water spritz to nitrous-boost its cut like you can with the Meguiar's SMAT products. Straight outta' the bottle is how it likes to roll.

*Optimizing Optimum Polish II*​
Like every polish, both technique and pad pairings really help in getting the most performance out of OP-II. Here are some tips and suggestions accrued over my last seven years of usage …

As with most non-diminishing polishes, the Kevin Brown Method still applies in _most*_ circumstances, and is the primary technique you'll be using with this product. Check here for an older writeup I did on this: https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4 . Below are photos of the amount of product I use when priming a microfiber cutting pad.










[Prime pad with large spiral of polish]










[Work product into pad with nitrile gloved hand]










[Apply two pea-sized blobs of polish per section]​
On a whole, there aren't a lot of exotic tricks that are really needed. As I stated earlier, Optimum Polish II does respond well to some unorthodox polishing styles when the situation calls for it, though. That said, here are some pad/machine combos that I find work really well with this product:

*OP-II + Microfiber Finishing Pad + Standard Throw, Free-Rotating DA -*

As I no longer use my G110 V2 now that I have my Rotex, I miss this combo like crazy…  It's truly wonderful as an initial cutting step on softer paints as part of a 2-stage correction, leaving behind the lightest, most even haze that takes but a pass or two on a foam finishing pad to remove. On normal or hard paints, it finishes out great as a 1-step… In both instances, offering a fantastic level of contouring, that makes working on curvy panels a joy. This works okay with the 5mm pile, Meguiar's Microfiber Finishing Discs, but finishes better with an 8mm pile pad, like the Buff & Shine / Chemical Guy's black Microfiber Finishing pads. This can remove up to P2000 grit sanding scratches, though P2500-3000 are a little more in its comfort zone.

*OP-II + Meguiar's DA Yellow Foam Polishing Disc + Free or Forced Rotating DA -*

This is an interesting combo… If you're struggling to finish out on a very soft paint with OP-II, I have found this particular one to offer slightly better results than other finishing pad combos I've tried. Also, it is the exception to the rule of fully priming the pad*… Just 3-5 small blobs of polish is sufficient, and yields the best results. It's also a great combo for light enhancement work, when you want to quickly remove some light wash marring.

*OP-II + Scholl Concepts White Spider Sandwich Pad + Free or Forced Rotating DA - *

On flatter panels, this combo finishes better than an MF finishing pad whilst offering a similar level of cut, so makes an awesome non-diminishing 1-step pairing. The downside is, it doesn't contour as well as the MF finishing combo.

*OP-II + Wool + Rotary - *

If you want to truly tap into OP-II's maximum cutting potential, this is how to do it. Runs smooth and cool, with manageable marring/hologramming. Great for P1500-2000 grit wetsanding scratches, or mild-moderate RIDS on medium hardness paints. I'd also suggest priming the pad by picking up a bead, in this instance, to help lightly and evenly coat the long wool fibers. Another exception to the rule*...

*OP-II + Rupes Yellow or Green Foam + Long-Throw, Free-Rotating DA -*

I was surprised at how nice OP-II was with the Rupes pads, to be honest; it's kind of a match made in heaven… On the Green foam especially, which is famous for poor durability, OP-II's lubrication seems to be helping prolong the life of the pad. I no longer notice the foam dust I got when pairing it with other polishes. The cut/finish spread on Green is also really great for a 1-step; much better than Quarz, and still runs smooth… OP-II & Rupes Yellow is also a great combo; trading some of the Green pad's cut for a bit more gloss, but still makes a nice duo for enhancement work. Again, runs smooth as butter.

*Conclusion*​
You always know your favorite detailing products, because they are typically the ones you reach for first when 'stuff gets real'… They're the ones you put in your bag first if you are detailing an unknown car away from home. They're the ones you reach for when you're tired, and you're running out of time. They're the ones you reach for when the job needs doing, but the weather tries to turn it into a nightmare.

This is the sort of product that Optimum Polymer Technologies Polish II is for me. I used OP-II on an Optimum V1 Microfiber Polishing Pad (Discontinued) to refine the P2000 to P3000 grit scratches on my first wetsanding project on my MGB… I chose it, because I knew I would be preoccupied with learning the new skill of wetsanding, and just wanted something I could rely upon in a brand-new situation to me. It helped make that experience less stressful than it otherwise could have been, as it helped me adapt to an unknown type of paint 'defect' I had just installed, and learn on the fly… As a detailer, products that are adaptable to this extent are worth their weight in gold.

Unlike some of the trendier and more mainstream brands, though, this polish has flown totally under the radar in the detailing industry to the point of obscurity… Even in the US where Optimum is headquartered, only a handful of retailers are still stocking it (Though thankfully, Autogeek - one of the largest - is still one of them.), and so far I've only found a handful of companies in the UK or EU who continue to… These include Motorgeek ( https://www.motorgeek.co.uk/cgi-bin/ecom.cgi?Command=ShowProduct&db_pid=367 ), Detailed Obsession ( http://www.detailedobsession.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=248 ), and Optimum Car Care Europe ( http://www.optimumcarcare.eu/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=52 ). My suggestion - if you are interested in trying this product, and cannot find a convenient source - is contacting your local Optimum distributor, and asking them to bring it in for you. Retailers rely on feedback from their customers regarding the products they routinely decide to stock, so if you want something, the only way you'll ever see it is to ask.

For me, and the type of paintwork correction I do, Optimum Polish II truly is a hidden gem. Depending upon the types of cars you work on, your preferred polishing style, or your local availability, it may not be _your_ hidden gem. However, if you like what you have read, and think that it might match your situation, OP-II is an underdog product worth giving a serious look.










Thank you for reading.

*- Steampunk -*​


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## Pembroke_Boy (Aug 24, 2017)

Superb write up and photography. You are a talented man there sir!


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

I tried this Polish when polishing first time my cars and it truly is nice product. Too bad that separation issue was quite bad.

Have you tried Koch Chemie 08.02 and 05.01 already? What about the Last Cut compound?


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## suds (Apr 27, 2012)

#Now that's a very high bar you've set Steampunk- have you just put the forum on to an expert's expert level? :thumb:


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## cossiecol (Jun 29, 2014)

Used this a few times now and really liked the working time I got out of it, probably reach for it more when there’s a breeze


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

Thanks for sharing your knowledge Steampunk:buffer:. Another amazing write up and enjoyable read with my morning coffee.:thumb:


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

Incredible review mate! Looks like an excellent compound and one worth trying.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

sm81 said:


> I tried this Polish when polishing first time my cars and it truly is nice product. Too bad that separation issue was quite bad.
> 
> Have you tried Koch Chemie 08.02 and 05.01 already? What about the Last Cut compound?


With the Hyper range OPT suggest adding some stainless steel balls (or similar) to help mix the product before use, I wonder if the same would also work in their traditional polishes


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Thank you all very much for your kind words... I really enjoy writing these reviews and doing the photography for them, and it always makes me happy when they are of use. 



sm81 said:


> Have you tried Koch Chemie 08.02 and 05.01 already? What about the Last Cut compound?


Alas, not yet... I got sidetracked testing all the Rupes pads/polishes, recently. KC and Last Cut are both on my radar for future testing, though, as well as a handful of other pads and polishes.

- Steampunk


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## scooobydont (Feb 25, 2017)

If carlsberg did reviews! Stunning write up, thanks for taking the time do do it.


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## pawlik (May 16, 2011)

Looks like OP II is similar to new 3D ACA 520.


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## A&J (Mar 4, 2015)

Really nice review...

I have not used this polish but I do use the Hyper collection of polishes. This sound really similar to Hyper polish which is just outstanding. 

Keep up the good work!!!


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Again, thank you all for the support. 



pawlik said:


> Looks like OP II is similar to new 3D ACA 520.


Interesting... I'd be quite curious of your opinion on this, if you've been working with it? 3D is one brand I haven't tried yet, but it has been on my radar, and ACA 520 was the one that really caught my attention when it came out.



A&J said:


> Really nice review...
> 
> I have not used this polish but I do use the Hyper collection of polishes. This sound really similar to Hyper polish which is just outstanding.
> 
> Keep up the good work!!!


Both OP-II and Hyper Polish Spray are non-diminishing abrasive polishes, according to Optimum, though I believe that OP-II still has more cut out of the two... I'm very interested in trying out the latest version of Hyper Polish, and hope to pick up a bottle soon. :thumb:

- Steampunk


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

*Thread Update: *

A&J made the comment that OP-II sounded really similar to Optimum Hyper Polish, which made me curious if they truly were similar... Especially since Hyper Polish is more commonly available in most countries than Optimum Polish II.

So, 'in the name of science', I picked up a sample bottle. 

Alas, I am here to inform you that Hyper Polish is not a direct replacement for OP-II... 

Whilst it shares the same characteristics of no dusting, versatile cut range (Hyper Polish is notably more aggressive than something like M205.), and almost infinite work time, it is inferior to OP-II in several aspects...

Firstly, the finish. Whilst OP-II can finish wonderfully even on soft finishes with an open cell Meg's or Rupes yellow polishing pad, Hyper Polish does leave a bit of hazing or micro-marring on the softest paints when used similarly. To make Hyper Polish sprayable, Optimum had to thin down on the massive lubricant film strength in its gel polishes, which was what gave OP-II such an amazing scope of capabilities.

Secondly, Hyper Polish is unfortunately messier to work with than OP-II. The spray application is a very fast method of getting polish transferred to the pad or to the paint, and is a rather inspired idea. However, in application overspray is unavoidable, and there is absolutely no precision or consistency with which pads can be primed like normal liquid/gel polishes... Furthermore, Hyper Polish contains a blue dye, which does stain.

Thirdly, as Hyper Polish is thinner in viscosity, it is more likely to sling if you load the pad as heavily as you can with OP-II... This again contributes to mess, but also reduces the abrasive volume you can load pads with, and thus the ultimate cutting potential... Hyper Polish is not a product you can use with a KBM priming methodology.

Within the Optimum range, Hyper Polish offers but a few advantages over Polish II (Namely, faster application, and the fact that Hyper Polish also contains the primer elements for Optimum's consumer and professional coatings, which OP-II lacks.), but in achieving them sacrifices too many of the things that raises OP-II to true greatness... For those interested in OP-II, I sadly cannot recommend Hyper Polish as a direct replacement.

*- Steampunk - *​


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## A&J (Mar 4, 2015)

I had no idea a simple comment could cause such reaction :doublesho 

Great work Steampunk...I tottaly agree with your findings on Hyper polish :thumb:


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## streaky (Dec 2, 2006)

Fabulous write up. You have set the review bar very high.


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

Great work Steampunk 
I enjoy read your post again and again .


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

I like OP II it gives glass like finish without darken the paint .


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## BradleyW (May 4, 2015)

Great review! How would you say the gloss compares to Scholl's finer abrasives such as S30 and S40?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

BradleyW said:


> Great review! How would you say the gloss compares to Scholl's finer abrasives such as S30 and S40?


OP-II is really hard to compare to Scholl since it uses a totally different abrasive technology, and in most cases performs best on very different sorts of pads. This makes apples-to-apples comparison almost impossible.

Maxing out both products on their ideal pads (Say, OP-II + Meg's Yellow, and S30+ on NEO Honey.), and I'd give a slight but notable finishing edge to S30+, but OP-II is not too far off... However, the added versatility and flexibility of OP-II puts it in a very different category of product altogether.

Both OP-II and S30+ share a similarity in and that they both are amazing choices for metallics, that really lets the flake take on that coarse, sparkly look without getting buried and muted.

In the world of polishes, OP-II is my workhorse; not my race horse, or my show pony. It peaks out at a 9/10 to 9.5/10 at the fine end. If you get every part of the process right before finishing, a 9/10 to 9.5/10 finish will knock your socks off. S30+ might give a 10/10, but is not as useful for the work before that last step. S40 shines on dark, solid colours, and can bring these (Especially on soft paints.) to that Spinal Tap 11/10, but mutes flake a bit more than S30+ or OP-II. S40 leaves more wetness and depth than S30+ or OP-II. S30+ has a little more richness of colour and crispens up body lines a touch more than OP-II; OP-II leaves a more neutral colour, without as much darkening (As MAXI-MILAN says...). However, we're splitting hairs.

Still, OP-II is a polish that is just as happy removing P1500-2000 grit wetsanding scratches, as it is doing a mild gloss enhancement. I'm never unhappy with its finish, but there are 3-4 other finer polishes in my arsenal that will leave a more nuanced finish. It's the horse that pulls the cart, and gives the children rides, and pulls the plow, and is good tempered and reliable, and never gets sick doing all of it... You need to have a product like that in your stable. It's the one that just quietly gets all the work done.

Hope this helps...

- Steampunk


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