# Good, easy to use polish/compound for first-time polisher?



## CleanGirl (Mar 27, 2017)

Hi all, I wanted to have a crack at correcting the swirls in one of my cars' paint and my friend kindly lent me his machine polisher but I'm not sure what would be a good compound to try? Ideally something versatile that I would feel safe and confident with; I've got some Meg's Ultimate Compound but not sure if that would be too aggressive? I feel like it would be better to start off with something gentle maybe? Thanks


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## Ford8loke (Jan 11, 2016)

Hi,

I'd advise starting with a finishing polish or a pre wax cleanser on a finishing pad for your first time using an machine polisher.

My personal recommendation would be to try some Dodo juice supernatural micro prime. It is a great performing and forgiving product ideal for a beginner.
It's nice and fluid with good lubrication so doesn't dry out too quick giving you more time to concentrate on how to handle the machine and hone your technique.

Once your comfortable using the machine you can move onto more aggressive pads and polishes/compounds until you achieve the level of correction desired.

Good luck


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

CleanGirl said:


> Hi all, I wanted to have a crack at correcting the swirls in one of my cars' paint and my friend kindly lent me his machine polisher but I'm not sure what would be a good compound to try? Ideally something versatile that I would feel safe and confident with; I've got some Meg's Ultimate Compound but not sure if that would be too aggressive? I feel like it would be better to start off with something gentle maybe? Thanks


Brian from Apex Detailing has just done a test of Ultimate Compound. Check it out.





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If you think that is to much cut for what you need, maybe try something that is a bit more pad dependant like Scholl S20 Black or Sonax EX 04-06. You can start with a polishing pad and go up to a cutting pad if needed.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

I'd go with the Megs Ultimate Compound. I started with that myself and came across no problems using up the bottle. Use it on a light/medium polishing pad and you should get a good level of cut to remove the swirls but it will also finish down nicely. 

Could grab a bottle of the ultimate polish from halfords also if you like to then go over again as a finishing stage if you wanted.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## \Rian (Aug 23, 2017)

First time I ever used a DA was with Sonax profiline perfect finish as its not to abrasive but gives great results on a car with light marring as mine had been polished about a year before

https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sonax-perfect-finish-profiline


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## mikster (Jan 4, 2016)

Or try out koch chemie polishes. They are great with no dusting.


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## bigalc (Aug 7, 2014)

Brian1612 said:


> I'd go with the Megs Ultimate Compound. I started with that myself and came across no problems using up the bottle. Use it on a light/medium polishing pad and you should get a good level of cut to remove the swirls but it will also finish down nicely.
> 
> Could grab a bottle of the ultimate polish from halfords also if you like to then go over again as a finishing stage if you wanted.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


As Brian 1612 says :thumb:


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## CleanGirl (Mar 27, 2017)

Thanks for all the advice, guys 



Brian1612 said:


> I'd go with the Megs Ultimate Compound. I started with that myself and came across no problems using up the bottle. Use it on a light/medium polishing pad and you should get a good level of cut to remove the swirls but it will also finish down nicely.
> 
> Could grab a bottle of the ultimate polish from halfords also if you like to then go over again as a finishing stage if you wanted.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk





bigalc said:


> As Brian 1612 says :thumb:


Ok, cool, sounds like I can have a go with the Ultimate Compound then  Thanks for putting my mind at ease! Just scared of making things worse! :buffer:


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## EG30 (Jul 8, 2017)

CleanGirl said:


> Thanks for all the advice, guys
> 
> Ok, cool, sounds like I can have a go with the Ultimate Compound then  Thanks for putting my mind at ease! Just scared of making things worse! :buffer:


As suggested by the others, Meg UC is a good choice for defects removal not ie too aggressive, get most jobs done and finishes down well.

How bad are the defects on your car and also what type of car and colour is it?


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## CleanGirl (Mar 27, 2017)

EG30 said:


> As suggested by the others, Meg UC is a good choice for defects removal not ie too aggressive, get most jobs done and finishes down well.
> 
> How bad are the defects on your car and also what type of car and colour is it?


It's a BMW but resprayed in Midnight Purple, so Japanese paint; the defects are mainly swirls, the boot in particular, and the bonnet also has some swirls and very fine scratches. I'm extremely careful with it but dark colours are a nightmare


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## EG30 (Jul 8, 2017)

CleanGirl said:


> It's a BMW but resprayed in Midnight Purple, so Japanese paint; the defects are mainly swirls, the boot in particular, and the bonnet also has some swirls and very fine scratches. I'm extremely careful with it but dark colours are a nightmare


I see, and what type of polisher and pads are you going to be using?


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## westerman (Oct 12, 2008)

Rian said:


> First time I ever used a DA was with Sonax profiline perfect finish as its not to abrasive but gives great results on a car with light marring as mine had been polished about a year before
> 
> https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sonax-perfect-finish-profiline


Rian/ on your recommendation I tried Sonax Profiline perfect Finish and was blown away with how easy it is to use and how good it was a t ridding my car of minor swirls.

It goes on really easy, is safe to use, does not dry during passes so no powder issues and as it is an AIO polish it finishes to a great shine.

I would recommend it for newbies or oldies like me who can't handle too many products for cut and finish.

Harry


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## CleanGirl (Mar 27, 2017)

EG30 said:


> I see, and what type of polisher and pads are you going to be using?


I'm picking up one of those Challenge Xtreme DAs from Argos because I can get it for free with some vouchers and Nectar points and I have a set of 5 cheap eBay pads at the moment, 150mm with varying levels of abrasiveness. I was thinking of staring with maybe the second softest and a very delicate polish.



westerman said:


> Rian/ on your recommendation I tried Sonax Profiline perfect Finish and was blown away with how easy it is to use and how good it was a t ridding my car of minor swirls.
> 
> It goes on really easy, is safe to use, does not dry during passes so no powder issues and as it is an AIO polish it finishes to a great shine.
> 
> ...


Just quoting that to say thanks as it sounds really good


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## EG30 (Jul 8, 2017)

Sounds like the plan.

With the selection of pads you have along with Ultimate compound and Perfect Finish you are going to try gives you plenty of options there.

Once you have done a few test spots with different combo of pads and liquids you'll get an idea what's best to use for the whole car.


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## suds (Apr 27, 2012)

Beemer resprayed midnight purple? - your such a girl! My only concern is you are about to use use cheap pads as a complete novice? No..NO..NO. don't.


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## CleanGirl (Mar 27, 2017)

EG30 said:


> Sounds like the plan.
> 
> With the selection of pads you have along with Ultimate compound and Perfect Finish you are going to try gives you plenty of options there.
> 
> Once you have done a few test spots with different combo of pads and liquids you'll get an idea what's best to use for the whole car.


Hopefully it will be all good!



suds said:


> Beemer resprayed midnight purple? - your such a girl! My only concern is you are about to use use cheap pads as a complete novice? No..NO..NO. don't.


Um, I think you'll actually find Midnight purple is an epic colour and not at all girly, especially not the on the GT-R! Best GT-R colour - fact! 

Ok, so why are cheap pads a bad idea? More than happy to go and buy a selection of good ones, but just curious and I want to know why so I understand


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## ENEP (Mar 20, 2017)

CleanGirl said:


> Ok, so why are cheap pads a bad idea? More than happy to go and buy a selection of good ones, but just curious and I want to know why so I understand


Cheap pads have a tendency to vary immensely in quality. 
Velcro can loose its grip to backing plate causing the pad to fly away and the machine attacking the paint - can get expensive fast..
Foam doesn't last as long which basically means you'll need more pads.
Two of the same type of foam pad can vary a lot in there cut grade due to low quality and manufacturing controls.

Scholls Ecofix pads are great quality pads at a low price.
https://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/prod...ange-universal-polishing-pad-choice-of-sizes/


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## CleanGirl (Mar 27, 2017)

ENEP said:


> Cheap pads have a tendency to vary immensely in quality.
> Velcro can loose its grip to backing plate causing the pad to fly away and the machine attacking the paint - can get expensive fast..
> Foam doesn't last as long which basically means you'll need more pads.
> Two of the same type of foam pad can vary a lot in there cut grade due to low quality and manufacturing controls.
> ...


Thanks for that 

Right, so I think I have my shopping list:

Scholl Ecofix pads (2x orange cutting pads and 2x black finishing? Or more orange and just one finishing pad?)
Sonax Perfect Finish
CarPro Eraser (seems to be one of the best sprays for wiping down)


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## westerman (Oct 12, 2008)

I have used a Challenge DA and they really are quite good for the price. Ideal for minor swirls and marring but you'd need a better machine for serious paint correction.

I think using some decent quality pads with it will enhance it even further. Just make sure you buy the right sized pads for the backing plate. 

Harry


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## CleanGirl (Mar 27, 2017)

westerman said:


> I have used a Challenge DA and they really are quite good for the price. Ideal for minor swirls and marring but you'd need a better machine for serious paint correction.
> 
> I think using some decent quality pads with it will enhance it even further. Just make sure you buy the right sized pads for the backing plate.
> 
> Harry


Looking at a 125mm/5" plate for the Scholl 165mm/6.5" pads, should be ok? From what I've read I understand you want at least an inch more pad than plate, so 6.5 should work?


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## ENEP (Mar 20, 2017)

CleanGirl said:


> Looking at a 125mm/5" plate for the Scholl 165mm/6.5" pads, should be ok? From what I've read I understand you want at least an inch more pad than plate, so 6.5 should work?


5" plate = 145mm pad
6" plate = 165mm pad


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

I have a mixture of Buff and Shine, and Lake Country pads, and you can't go wrong with either. They are also quite cheap where I live (not sure about your pricing, can't imagine them being crazy expensive).

And as other have said, UC and UP is a great 1 2 combo, and even UP can get rid of wash marks if the paint is soft enough. Another option is M205, it's more expensive than either UC or UP, but it has more cut than UP, and is extremely user friendly (long work times, no dust, just buffs forever). You can one step with it if you have minor defects with the right pad and technique. Make sure to brush up on the SMAT polishes (non diminishing abrasives), they don't need to be worked for a set amount of time, you use machine speed and pressure to vary the amount of cut, and always finish was a slower, lighter pass at the end of the set.


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## BarryAllen (Feb 3, 2017)

Don't listen to the scare stories about pads from Ebay.... my own personal experience is they are fine for a use and throw away job. 

I'm sure they are a risk at the margin (Speed 6, Heavy Cut, and initial passes where you would be 'putting some passion into the pad') but otherwise I can't see them separating form the velcro. (All appropriate disclaimers implied here!)

Don't bother washing them and use Mike Phillips Clean on the Fly technique with a Terry towel... works fine. Washing does affect the backing material. 

Flip side is.. you only need 3 or 4 pads and that would only run you £20 to £30 wouldn't it if you bought 'brand'?

**Edit: Oh and Menzerna compounds are fab if you are still undecided.**


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## ttc6 (Oct 31, 2017)

BarryAllen said:


> **Edit: Oh and Menzerna compounds are fab if you are still undecided.**


+1 for Menzerna, underrated in my opinion. I've been using it for years, great no-nonsense products. Also, to wade in on the pad debate, I've had 3x Chemical Guys Hex pads and 1x 3M pad which have all lasted really well. I wouldn't need duplicates, never worn one out. The softer ones sometimes get damaged if you snag a trim or whatever, but I've tidied them up with a scalpel and cracked on.



BarryAllen said:


> Don't bother washing them and use Mike Phillips Clean on the Fly technique with a Terry towel... works fine. Washing does affect the backing material.


I'm not one to disagree Barry (more out of concern that I'm doing something daft), but I've washed my pads countless times (by hand, with laundry detergent). The backing goes a bit crinkly like an un-ironed shirt and the writing falls off, but it's never caused me problems. Have you seen this cause the backing to fail?



CleanGirl said:


> It's a BMW but resprayed in Midnight Purple


But what I'm really here for is pictures of this.


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