# Professional Chip repair systems



## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

Does anyone use a Chip repair system? I do a smart repairs and use a waterbase system which is useless for touching in etc. I see there are a lot of professional chip and scratch systems available but which is best? I had a SSR system a few years back but that was a faff to use. Any suggestions?


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## Sicskate (Oct 3, 2012)

savvyfox said:


> Does anyone use a Chip repair system? I do a smart repairs and use a waterbase system which is useless for touching in etc. I see there are a lot of professional chip and scratch systems available but which is best? I had a SSR system a few years back but that was a faff to use. Any suggestions?


We use a solvent system, I don't personally mix the paints up but we have single stage paint, so no need to add lacquer after the base.

Sent from my FRD-L09 using Tapatalk


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## SamD (Oct 24, 2015)

savvyfox said:


> Does anyone use a Chip repair system? I do a smart repairs and use a waterbase system which is useless for touching in etc. I see there are a lot of professional chip and scratch systems available but which is best? I had a SSR system a few years back but that was a faff to use. Any suggestions?


I use waterbase for touchins, build up the base and apply the clear... flat and polish with no issue.


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## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

SamD said:


> I use waterbase for touchins, build up the base and apply the clear... flat and polish with no issue.


This seems fine on your own car but a bit time consuming for customer cars? A solvent system would appear to be quicker, but would the results be acceptable for paying customers.


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## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

Sicskate said:


> We use a solvent system, I don't personally mix the paints up but we have single stage paint, so no need to add lacquer after the base.
> 
> Sent from my FRD-L09 using Tapatalk


I have thought about getting a solvent system, but wondered if a specific chip system would give better results?


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## SamD (Oct 24, 2015)

savvyfox said:


> This seems fine on your own car but a bit time consuming for customer cars? A solvent system would appear to be quicker, but would the results be acceptable for paying customers.


I charge £8.50 a touch in, works out ok for me.


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## Danl94 (Mar 10, 2016)

We use waterbase and just add dedicated hardener to the basecoat. goes solid and does not wash off with anything even thinners. even though it is waterbase you can still add a drop or 2 of basecoat to activated solvent clear and you'll be fine.


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## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

Danl94 said:


> We use waterbase and just add dedicated hardener to the basecoat. goes solid and does not wash off with anything even thinners. even though it is waterbase you can still add a drop or 2 of basecoat to activated solvent clear and you'll be fine.


This sounds like a plan! When you say "dedicated" do you mean 2k hardener or is there a water based hardener I don't know about?


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## Danl94 (Mar 10, 2016)

We use Spies Hecker at work and the product is a dedicated basecoat hardener made for waterborne basecoat. Designed for 3 stage pearls and for multiple coat paint jobs but works just as well for touch ups. Goes rock solid.

Its called 3080 Hardener.


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## savvyfox (Oct 3, 2015)

Danl94 said:


> We use Spies Hecker at work and the product is a dedicated basecoat hardener made for waterborne basecoat. Designed for 3 stage pearls and for multiple coat paint jobs but works just as well for touch ups. Goes rock solid.
> 
> Its called 3080 Hardener.


Thanks, I use standox but would imagine they do something similar.


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## Danl94 (Mar 10, 2016)

Yes Standox and Spies are both made by Axalta and use pretty much the same products with different labels. They should do a basecoat hardener


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