# Sticky  Bonnets - stone chip removal procedure



## Naranto

I was offered an Amethyst (same colour as my car) bonnet for my SAAB 9000. As those who know him will testify, for the previous owner keeping cars clean and shiney is not particualrly high on his list of priorities - it had never been cleaned let alone polished in his two year ownership, so it would be interesting to see how well the bonnet came up with a bit of detailing

As you can see from the test section it did come up rather well.










So well in fact it showed up the multitude of stone chips.










So I thought I would explain how I plan on making these less noticeable. I am sure it is not the way the professional would approach it but I have used this technique before with some success.

Items required: A can or two of lighter fuel, small tub of matching or similar colour paint (Humbrol enamel paints are ideal - I used black), polishing pad (ideally lint free), protective gloves.

1. Wipe surface over with a cleaner - I use lighter fuel.
2. Squirt lighter fuel on to pad and add some paint.
3. Apply paint on to surface ensuring it is well rubbed in to the chips.
4. Leave for half an hour and repeat the procedure at least three times till the chips appear 'full'.
5. For large stone chips get a toothpick and dip in the paint and apply to hole. 
6. Leave for a few days for the paint to dry.
6. Using 3000 grit wet and dry rub over the entire surface, taking particualr care with the larger toothpick filled stone chips.
7. Machine polish and finish with a wax.

This will get rid of 80-90 percent of pinholes.

UPDATE: I have given the bonnet a couple of coats.










Original photo for comparison










I know it may look a bit frightening but a steady nerve and taking time will reap rewards. As explained it will reduce thee appearance of chips rather than remove them completely. Anyway another coat or two and then I will leave it for a while for the paint to harden.

Here is the bonnet after a test section using Farcela Scratch paste on a rotary. You may find there are a few pin holes that may have been missed, so use a toothpick and paint to fill them.










It will then have some Menzerna Final Finish - test section shown here:










....and will be followed with a a cleaner and wax.

Almost complete.










Bonnet has not been waxed at this stage.


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## Guest

i like things like this,good tips and turn around .also looks like the invisible man took the last pic :thumb:


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## BenB

Wow!! I was going to post something up about how to remove these, the front end of my car is really let down by the flurry of little white specks! I'd be terrified to do this to my car, but looks like it works well!

May just have to attempt this one day!

When you sa "and add some paint" how much? A dab onto the pad? Diluted by the lighter fluid?


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## felondnb

Good work... I've got some Audi paint ready to do my front bumper, though I'll probably use a fine tipped art brush or graphics pen nib and work over them one at a time due to the shape of the bumper...


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## Naranto

BenB - I would say about a 10p piece is enough. The Humbrol paint pot gives a good size amount when you put the pad over it and tip it over and yes give a good squirt of lighter fluid on the pad first. After about four applcations you will find the pinholes/sky at night effect will have disappeared. Repeat the proces until you are happy.

A tip: To keep the pad moist between applications grab it in the gloved hand and take off the glove still holding the pad. The pad will then be inside the glove staying soft ready for the next coat.

Felondnb: I did my front skirt about three years ago (this is next on the list to do again) using this method and again it does work well as you can rub/fill in those areas you cannot get at with a brush or pen. Try a test area and I think you may well be pleased with the results.

Detail: Re: Invisible Man - or to be more exact self timered shot was used to stop camera shake as I could not use a flash.


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## Navra

Thanks Naranto, this was a very useful post for me.
I like to learn new metods
Keep up the good work.


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## yetizone

Very good improvement indeed. I'll be bookmarking this thread for future use when our Passat receives some much needed 'bonnet attention' after some 60K of motorway miles. Just haven't plucked up the courage just yet


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## MoggyTech

That's very clever, and stunning correction. :thumb:


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## BenB

Do you hold the 3000grit by hand or use a block/pad behind it?


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## Naranto

BenB - I use an old cork block - don't try it without some sort of block, ideally something not too hard such as rubber. Use plenty of soapy water as a lubricant and do a small area at a time, keeping the strokes in the same directions. As I don't have a paint depth meter I made sure I didn't take too much off - a way to check is when you have finshed, wipe the panel and leave to dry. The entire panel should have a flat dull finish.

Here is a shot showing the dull flat sanding finish along with a section showing a first pass with Farcela.










Hope this helps


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## AJA_528i

WOW:doublesho

Better than new!!:thumb:


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## paulmc08

what an excellent write up imo,fantastic results:thumb:


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## Ady b

Veri Impressive, Great Result :thumb:


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## The Cueball

Never seen this done before... very strange!

Why lighter fluid though, would any cleaner work just as well?

Can't agrue with the results though!

:thumb:


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## Naranto

Cueball, I used lighter fluid simply because it does not react with the paint, seems to clean better and evaporates easily. It also comes in a tin with a small nozzle so I can use as much or as little as I need :thumb:


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## spitfire

Great result there by the look of these pictures. Don't know if I'd be brave enough for to do that on an otherwise good paint finish.


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## JoeAVS1

Very good DIY tip right there!


Good Work!

Joe


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## Trist

Great job :thumb:

What polish and pad did you use to remove the 3000grit marks?


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## Naranto

Trist,

Randon orbital with 5" velcro fixing.
Menzerna polishing pads from:
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/menzerna-polishing-pads/cat_24.html

There are lots of machines out there and you can pick up a rotary for a good price nowadays. I picked the random simply because it was so cheap (£5) and as I only detail my cars, I felt the cost is easily justified.

Anyway back to your question:

I first used Farcela Scratch remover, though Megs ScratchX or similar would be OK - do a small area at a time, using water in an old spray bottle as a lube. Work it in to the surface until it breaks down and you are happy with the finish.

Finished with Menzerna PO85RD which in my opinion is superb from:
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...rna-final-finish-po85rd-1-litre/prod_224.html
A SMALL amount on the pad (3 to 4 pea sized drops) and a little water as a lube would be enough to do a panel - remember less is more. Keep working it till it breaks down.

When you are happy with the finish, clean down with DoDo Lime Prime paint cleaner.

Wax of your choice: I used Turtlewax Platinum (this is a personal choice based on my tests as I also have some Supernatural which to be honest, does not impress and Megs)

Jobs a good 'un :thumb:

There are lots of choice available and others here may suggest an alternative and better option, but for me I feel comfortable with this combination.


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## gb270

grerat work looks ten times better


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## Naranto

Ho hum,

Thought I would enter the write up in 'The Detailing World Monthly Detail Competition', even got some positive responses, then for some reason the posts were deleted - such is life I suppose 










Some months down the line and the bonnet has stood the test of time - the white dot in the centre is the Moon. :thumb:


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## details

Nice work! I have 3 small chips on my caddy just where the screen meets the roof im not sure what to do because they have rusted slightly and they are almost on the edge. Any ideas?


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## ArpusTT

fantastic work.


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## weavers

my car has stone chips and deep scratches on every body panel, '81 benz with 280k miles, anyways i've been all over it with touch up paint and i've been real surprised on how aggressive i an be with the sanding and how quickly you an burn threw.(its a paint to burn threw then touchup then sand again. not sure when I should add lacquer) 

Whats worked for me is 1000, 2000, 3000 wet sanding with a palm sander(1.5amps super weak), purple lc wool pad, oj(both m105) then white with m205, lastly collites 845 wax. Its ~90% corrected on my test panels. I've decided to sand the whole car(i'm half way anyways). 

My groits DA with purple lc wool pad takes sand marks out without any effort at all. I do have soft clear coat paint, but still. It inspires confidence that I an sand anything and get a mirror like shine. Although I wasn't able to get a mirror like shine from a marble top table that I sanded back with 40grit this summer.


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## Guest

I can't believe I missed this first time around - just followed your link from Mirror Finish's post on using a run razor to help with stone chip repairs. Looks like a great idea - definately worth experimenting with :thumb:

I've got a few Q's to help get things clear in my mind:
Do you end up with a fine coating of enamel paint over the whole surface, not just in the chips?
Do you need to use enamel paints for this technique or would conventional car touchup paints (i.e. from Paints4u) work just as well?
Have you tried this techniques with metallics?


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## jgy6000

http://www.humbrol.com/paints/enamel-paints for anyone thats interested

Also, how much paint is needed/ what size pot shall i get?


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## jgy6000

also was it water based or solvent based?


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## Lister

Good info - thanks


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## Naranto

Do you end up with a fine coating of enamel paint over the whole surface, not just in the chips?
_At first yes but work it in to the chips, a small amount will remain on the surface which is unavoidable, this willl be wet sanded off._

Do you need to use enamel paints for this technique or would conventional car touchup paints (i.e. from Paints4u) work just as well?
_I guess you can use any paint. The only reason I use enamel is that it remains wet longer so you can work it in to the chips easier. If you are using an aerosol, don't thin it. Do a smaller area by spraying it in to the lid first then apply with lint free cloth pulled tightly over your finger. Cellulose paint dries much quicker so you will need to be quick_

Have you tried this techniques with metallics?
_Works on all finishes - the bonnet I worked on is an amethyst metallic._

Also, how much paint is needed/ what size pot shall i get?
_A small pot of enamel is enough to do bonnet, wings and sills._

Also was it water based or solvent based?
_Solvent based. I used lighter fluid because I can add a little as I go. It also evaporates very quickly and will not 'pickle' the paint. I would not use a water based paint to be honest._

Hope this helps fellas.


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## jgy6000

spot on mate thats great, my golfs got 176,000 miles under its belt and its really showing on the front, now just need to find a decent colour match


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## buldy

Wow, the results are fantastic. Congrats!


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## Footballer

A fantastic education and a seriously perfected result.

Thank you for sharing your hard work. :thumb:


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## "SkY"

wow looks great..


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## IanCLK

I'm a new member here and this is the first thread I've read on repairing stone chips. The results you've achieved are excellent.
Being a newbie and having never done anything like this before, I don't think I'd have the nuggets to repair my bonnet stone chips like this.

Ian.


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## paulr

Why use lighter fuel, why not just paint. Is it because the paint will be too thick to get right into the chip.


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## Guest

Thanks for the guide, was wondering how to tackle the bonnet of my 106. Will have to give it a go to see how I get on


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## Naranto

> Why use lighter fuel, why not just paint. Is it because the paint will be too thick to get right into the chip.


The paint will be too thick and likely to pull itself out of the chips when you rub it over the bodywork. The paint needs to be a thin consistency so a small amount is left. Repeating the process, once the paint has hardened, builds up the depth.

I use lighter fluid because it dries a lot quicker than thinners and is easier to apply in small quantities.


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## DavidClark

Very nice!!! I need this done on my bumper!!!! 
Don't think i would have the guts to do it tho.


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## paulr

Naranto said:


> The paint will be too thick and likely to pull itself out of the chips when you rub it over the bodywork. The paint needs to be a thin consistency so a small amount is left. Repeating the process, once the paint has hardened, builds up the depth.
> 
> I use lighter fluid because it dries a lot quicker than thinners and is easier to apply in small quantities.


Okay cheers. I tried this on a small area, and yes, it does work. You need quite a few layers because believe it or not, stone chips can be quite deep.


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## johnnyguitar

I think I'm going to give this a go as I am very impressed with the result. I've been looking at the paints4u paint as well but have wondered if it would work as well with the lacquer mixed in. I know I'll be able to get a colour match from them but not sure if I could get one from Humbrol.


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## paulr

johnnyguitar said:


> I think I'm going to give this a go as I am very impressed with the result. I've been looking at the paints4u paint as well but have wondered if it would work as well with the lacquer mixed in. I know I'll be able to get a colour match from them but not sure if I could get one from Humbrol.


Most stone chips are so small i doubt it matters.


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## Naranto

As PaulR says because stone chips are so small, it really does not matter if the paint is not an exact match. On my bonnet which is amethyst (a deep purple metallic) I used Humbrol black. 

Your eye cannot differentiate between the two shades, so for most dark colours I would recommend black.


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## paulr

My car is black. Some of the chips are so small its hard to tell if they are chips, or dust. A couple of swipes of paint, then ultimate compound are they are gone. This is for the bonnet. The bumper is a respray job. Too many chips, and too big. I'd say this method is only for dark colours where the smallest chip stands out.


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## johnnyguitar

Nice one cheers - I've bought a paints4u kit, I'm going to have a go at the bumper first and if I feck it up, it's no big deal as I have half planned to get it sprayed.


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## Neanderthal

You got much better results than I ever got with my supposedly idiot proof stone chip repair kit I bought in a groupbuy on Scoobynet :thumb:
Interesting to read that the paint would lift out the chip if it was too thick as this is what happened when I used my kit!


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## Naranto

PaulR, it will also work on light colours, such as silver, though I have to agree that the undercoat/primer on cars is usually a light shade so hides the chips easier.

Neanderthal, the paint needs to be a similar consistency to aerosols. Get a small pot of Humbrol from your local model shop, a couple of cans of lighter fluid from a tobacconist and off you go. Lots of light coats of paint is much better than one heavy coat. Using lighter fluid will dry the paint quicker, so after an hour or so you can apply the second coat. Around 5-6 coats is required.

The same principle applies to scuffs to plastic trim :thumb:


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## J99NNO

Naranto said:


> The same principle applies to scuffs to plastic trim :thumb:


Any chance of another little guide on a repair of plastic trim please? What paint do you use for that?


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## msa1712

Excellent!! Wish i have the courage to do my front skirts..


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## Jochen

Gonna try this tomorrow. What would be an ideal applicator to apply the paint? Foam pad, mf pad, mf cloth?



Wish me luck


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## Naranto

J99NNO - if it is a slight scuff then the same principle shoudl be used. If you wish you could use an aerosol paint as follows:
1. Clean the area with a solvent such as lighter fluid.
2. Use a lint free cloth pull tightly over your finger then....
3. Spray a thimble full of paint into the aerosol lid and a dab the paint with your finger then...
4. Rub very rigorously into the scratches.
5. Keep going until the paint dries.
6. Repeat the process with another thimble of paint until the scratch is less obvious.

Jochen- use some cotton of lint free material pulled over your finger. A foam pad, I found, was too forgiving. A MF pad is better. What you are trying to acheive is forcing the paint in to the chips and light scratches - a cloth pulled tight over your index finger is ideal.

I would however recommend putting a latex glove on first or you will end up with one coloured finger :thumb:


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## Reflectology

its a good and unusual way of doing things but seems to work, the way i do it is to integrate the basecoat with the same amount of cellulose lacquer, and bobs your fathers brother....


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## Simons R

Naranto-Did you just localize the paint in and around the chips or did you 'smear' it all over the bonnet? I noticed you'd wet n dried the whole thing? I'm going to have a go at this at the weekend...but I'll try the bumper 1st I think. 

By the way, just joined DW and this is the 1st thread I've read...very good!!


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## Naranto

Simon, if you are unsure then try a localised area first - a bumper is ideal.

I worked the paint in on a small area at a time, as the paint would have dried too quickly if I attempted to wipe over the enture area. Remember you are trying to force the paint in to the chips not give the area a smooth flat surface.

Also don't be put off by, what at first, looks a mess. Repeat the process at least 4-5 times, allowing the paint the dry between each aplication. For a bonnet you would be looking at least 2 days to ge to this stage, depending on weather conditions. Obviously it is best to do this in a garage if possible.


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## markwales

will be giving this a go in the near future both on bonnet and bumper my LEON is working hard and at just over 120000 miles needs some TLC


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## Superspec

That looks really good, not sure I'm brave enough to do this on my car.


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## mowflow

Looks like a great way to get rid of annoying stone chips, the results in the pics are very impressive. I might pick up a scrap bonnet and give it a go because I don't have the guts to sand my own car.


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## Riley89

That looks so good! I would just be worried about the colour of the paint! I'm sure a Halfords special wouldn't be a colour match!


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## Superspec

Would it work with something like a Megs foam applicator? My bonnet and front bumper are the only parts that let my car down and touching them up, if you'll pardon the phrase, will look just as bad I reckon. 

I figure I'll have a go at this and if it doesn't work I've lost nothing and will get them painted properly....


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## Naranto

Riley, for small stone chips a close colour match is fine. Problem with using a quick drying paint is that you do not have much time to apply it.

Superspec, best to use a lint free cloth as a pad is too 'soft' for what you want. Remember the idea is to force paint in to the holes rather than apply it to the surface of the panel.

HTH


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## Renclio

have pm'd you with a few questions, hope you dont mind  thank you


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## Naranto

Replied :thumb:


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## Mr Face

Belated thanks fella, a great thread and something that has already been printed off and ready to go. Polished the rest of my car over the recent days and cant live with the sky at night over the front end.

Should be a sticky :thumb:


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## Ben.

Wow, looks fantastic. Don't know if I have the guts to try this out on my bonnet!


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## gobrigavitch

Would this work for a long thin scratch. I have a 6" long scratch on Jerez Black paint that seems to go down to the primer. I'm looking for a way to fix it up. I have some touch up paint and some clear coat paint on order. 

Has anybody put a few coats of clear on top before sanding? The touch up paint supplier recommended using a few coats on top of the other. 

I'm thinking I'll rub the paint into the scratch until it seems close to level. Then apply a few coats of clear in the same way. Then sand it and polish.

Does that approach seem reasonable?


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## Naranto

That makes sense gobrigavitch.

I have used a similer method on a number of cars and bumpers and it usually works well. Secret is to apply a small amount at a time and let it dry. If the paint is still soft it will pull out of the scratch when you sand it.


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## Blue407

Few quick questions

I presume its the lighter fluid liquid you used, not the pressurised cans?

Do you know if the scratch cleaner in the scratchmaster kits from Paints4u would also be suitable?

Should I mix the paint with some clearcote before applying?


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## Trip tdi

This is a great post, never seen nothing like it on here, certainly opened alot of eyes on here.


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## Swerve

pure magic!


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## Naranto

Apologies for not replying sooner.

Blue407 asked: Few quick questions

I presume its the lighter fluid liquid you used, not the pressurised cans?
_Yes, as you can add as little or as much as you wish, It's also cheaper!_

Do you know if the scratch cleaner in the scratchmaster kits from Paints4u would also be suitable?
_ Possibly if they are not cellulose in which case they may well dry too quickly and may not wipe off so easily with the lughter fluid. I found an enamel paint (Humbrol) works best as it does not dry too quickly allowing you to rub it in to the holes and scratches easier._

Should I mix the paint with some clearcote before applying? 
_Not really worth it as once you have finished you should not be able to see the pinholes._


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## ben.beesley

Nice work!


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## BenB

I'm contemplating doing this soon - using some cellulose paint I have, and wondering about whether it would work OK, and whether to use thinners, lighter fluid or Isopropyl Alcohol. Any ideas what would work best?
Would doing this using cellulose thinners damage my lacquer??


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## IanJW

Wow, thanks for this amazing thread.
You should video the process and sell it to Halfrauds!!:thumb::thumb:


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## Naranto

Ben

If it was me I would use lighter fluid as this will not affect the original paintwork and is much easier to administer the correct amount. I would also go for Humbrol enamel paint which is around £1.60 a tin- enough for bonnet and wings. The reason for the paint is that it does not dry too quickly so you can work it in to the chips easier. 

Cellulose, I find dries too quickly.


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## wbryceq

would this work with metallic paint and spraying a bit of paint onto the pad from a can?


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## Naranto

Metallic is fine, but not from a can. It dries too quickly.
Please read my previous posts. The paint needs to dry fairly slowly, so you have time to work it in to the stone chips. :thumb:


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## Ricey155

Looking and reading the thread it just makes me smile and jump in and treat the car to a full effort :doublesho


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## moosh

BenB said:


> I'm contemplating doing this soon - using some cellulose paint I have, and wondering about whether it would work OK, and whether to use thinners, lighter fluid or Isopropyl Alcohol. Any ideas what would work best?
> Would doing this using cellulose thinners damage my lacquer??


no not if its done normally like the method shown, if you left thinners on a panel for days it would do damage :thumb:


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## thehulk2002

what sort of paint did you use I have paint from chipex would this work ?


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## Naranto

I guess it would work but please read my first post


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## sitalchauhan

Wow the pictures in the first post look amazing! I have got some quite bad stone chips on my bonnet so will definitely be using some of the tips in this thread :thumb:


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## Chiffs

Just got my lighter fluid and model paint. 

Being my car is BMW mystic blue i went for a dark gloss blue model paint. My bonnet and bumper has a hell of a lot of stone chips so if it works for me it will improve the car no end. 

Corner of bumper area has had two coats so far as a trial area, will leave that for 24hrs and apply some more if needed and see how we go.


Only have a DAS 6 with various sonus pads and polish plus some megs 105. Im guessing the megs 105 will be my best bet for polishing after wet sanding?


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## cv01jw

I am thinking about having a go at this on my V70, but it will be my first ever attempt at anything paintwork related and so I want to make sure I am capable of it first.

Would the method still work without having access to a machine polisher?


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## PaulaJayne

cv01jw said:


> I am thinking about having a go at this on my V70, but it will be my first ever attempt at anything paintwork related and so I want to make sure I am capable of it first.
> 
> Would the method still work without having access to a machine polisher?


Yes, but lots of elbow grease required in the finishing stages - even a cheap Halfords polisher will make it easier.

Paula


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## rockhopper

Just picked up on this thread and I'm going to tackle a few stone chips and a small scratch on my bimmer, it's a really dark navy blue will any of the enamel humbrol paints work or does it need to be a gloss/metallic and not say a matt ?


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## Naranto

Rockhopper FYI


> Items required: A can or two of lighter fuel, small tub of matching or similar colour paint *(Humbrol enamel paints are ideal - I used black)*, polishing pad (ideally lint free), protective gloves.


:thumb:


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## ridder

hy.
i have a question.
i am working on bmw. i got the base paint and lacquer.
is the right process if i:
sand the chip
put in colour
sand
put on lacquer
sand again 
polish

or must i sand only after i put lacquer on the paint and not before?

thanky!


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## Naranto

Mix the paint with a bit of laquer, then fill the chips. Leave for a few days then sand. :thumb:


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## ChasesDragons

I tried to sand within 2 hours of painting. What a HORRIBLE mistake!! Leave it for a few days like the OP suggests....LEAVE ITTTT! 

And thank you for a great article and thread.


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## witcher

My 0.01 $.
Great idea, good write up.
I experimented a bit with your method and found out that on dark cars it is better to use darker shade of paint rather than lighter than original, the chips (painted) are less visible that way. 
I suppose it would be perfect to match paint exactly with original, but if you cannot for some reason or other, go darker.

Did not have light paint car to experiment on though, so cannot comment on that.

Also I found that this method works great with stonechips, but not so great with scratches, perhaps I made some mistake in applying procedure, maybe it is me.

As with everything preparation is the key to success. the best results I got were in the part where I sanded *lightly *stonechip (and, for obvious reasons area around it) with 2000 grit wet sandpaper (use a lot of lubricant - water with fairy works well), powerwashed, washed with fairy liquid and used panel wipe liquid to degrease, decontaminate the work surface.

The best result were where I applied a lot of layers - wasn't shy with ligher fluid - and built paint this way. I think applying multiple layers of (thin) paint guaranties success.

It is the job you cannot rush


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## VenomUK

Thats amazing, I thinking I will tackle this as mine is a real let down and hate having the stone chips stair right back at me when the car is clean! Also a little worried about letting a body shop respray because I'm too worried that the finish wont be to my standard.....

At least by trying this if it fails then a respray is still the option but may as well give the cheaper option ago first :thumb:


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## spirocheter

I had a body shop respray my previous bonnet due to multiple stone chips, one in particular (more like a rock) had placed a dent in the finish. The finish was not good, there was a terrible mottling on one side of the bonnet. For chips in future, ill give this well thought out method a try, many thanks :thumb:


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## VdoubleU

Might have a go at this on my new (to me) car


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## blenki

something to think about, good skills


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## jan1111

I have two questions mate

Did you put lacquer on top or. was it already mixed in the paint? Can you wetsand over a metallic paint?

Has any of you ever done this to a Honda? I'm kind of scared of trying to wetsand the bonnet of my civic as the paint is so soft and thin :/


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## Naranto

Sorry I only just spotted your post(s)

I didn't lacquer the chips. The size of them really did not warrant the need to do so - you will never notice it by the naked eye.

You could add some lacquer to your paint when applying, but to be honest I wouldn't bother. For soft paint you just need to be a bit more careful.

Over three years :doublesho on and my bonnet now has a few fresh stone chips, but not enough to do it all over again.

HTH


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## Leebo310

First off, really useful post! It's exactly what I was going to post to ask "how to" so thanks for that! 
My question is with regards to the paint itself. We have a mk5 golf gti in black which has a metallic fleck in it, would normal black model paint work on this given the number of chips or would I need to get some oem stuff from vw? 
Have attached a pic so you can see how many I'm talking about....


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## Leebo310

Ignore my last post, have spoken to vw and a pot of paint plus clearcoat is only £8 so will just go with that!


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## Naranto

Strewth is this thread still going. :lol:

Not a problem, though the paint and clearcoat will dry far too quickly to be worked in to the stone chips, if you plan to use the same method of application.

Many people have asked about certain paint and I can only repeat that after trying a number of types Humbrol enamel paint is the best. It does not matter if there is a fleck in the paint as you will not be able to see the difference with the naked eye. 

Anyway, good luck and let us know how you get on. :thumb:


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## Leebo310

Ha, well it's an awesome thread so deserves to live on  
I plan to use the same methods yep, although I have a load of questions if that's ok?! 
Vw gave me a paint and pot of clearcoat so should I mix them together as well as the lighter fluid? If so what sort of ratios? 
Secondly why do you wet sand the entire bonnet rather than just around the chips? Does that not remove more of the clearcoat than is needed? Obviously the results you get are awesome so I'm not disputing it, more just curious as like to understand things before I try them! 
Finally I have some menzerna intense polish and fast gloss, both of which have a high level of cut so would it be ok to use this for the first step of correction after the sanding or do I need to get some of the farcela paste instead? I've already got final finish so am ok on that front.
Like I said mate, I'm really impressed with your results and appreciate any help/advice!


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## Naranto

I plan to use the same methods yep, although I have a load of questions if that's ok?!
_ Not a problem at all._

Vw gave me a paint and pot of clearcoat so should I mix them together as well as the lighter fluid? 
_Depends if the paint will mix with the lighter fluid. Try a test mix first._

If so what sort of ratios? 
_I would use only the paint for the first coat. 
Followed by approx 75 paint /25 clearcoat mix for the other coats, though to be honest you do not need a clearcoat. Allow for three/four further coats._

Secondly why do you wet sand the entire bonnet rather than just around the chips? 
_The bonnet had slight marks in its clearcoat as well as the paint level, so it made it easier to cover the complete area. That way you are sort of dealing with a level playing field._

Does that not remove more of the clearcoat than is needed? 
_It will remove some of the original clearcoat, but as you are rubbing the paint in to the marks there are no raised areas to be rubbed back. You could just do the marks that show, but you will find that as you fill the larger marks, the smaller marks become more noticeable. As you fill these marks the next set of marks become noticeable, etc. Also you will have to be more careful as you will be rubbing on a more confined area._

Obviously the results you get are awesome so I'm not disputing it, more just curious as like to understand things before I try them!
Finally I have some menzerna intense polish and fast gloss, both of which have a high level of cut so would it be ok to use this for the first step of correction after the sanding or do I need to get some of the farcela paste instead? 
_I would get a dedicated cutting compound. If you want to get on with it straight away i.e. this weekend, try G3 paste from Halfords._

I've already got final finish so am ok on that front.
Like I said mate, I'm really impressed with your results and appreciate any help/advice!

_Be patient and don't be too worried at first as the bonnet will look terrible. 
Secret is to ensure the bonnet is totally free from wax and polishes before you start.
Tip: To completely remove all surface additives, light spray or brush with paint brush cleaner (B&Q, Wickes) the sort you clean brushes with, not the stripper(!) then wash with hot household soapy water, followed by clean, hot water. Allow bonnet to thoroughly dry.
Brush cleaner is also great for degreasing the engine. Works like Gunk, but leaves no residue._


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## Leebo310

Mate you are an absolute star, thanks so much for the advice! 
Just need to find some free time to do it now!
Thanks again, internet beers being sent your way


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## Naranto

My pleasure.

If no rush, probably best to wait till it warms/dries up before you start.


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## Flakey

Excellent thread. Going to try this in a while.


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## xzaros

Brilliant post!
going to give this a go, will this tin be ok to do the same thing? Or do i need to mix anything with it before wiping it all over?
http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=5020

I know you wouldnt notice the difference on smaller chips using the humbrol but i have a very large gash on the bottom bumper and on the spoiler from the previous owner bumping into things so i need to get matching paint really for that

Thanks
Ryan


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## tubbylad

just found this, great advice Naranto.
I have two spider web type cracks in the front bumper of my legacy where it's been deformed by an impact but not chipped or raised the paint. the bumper is sound, not cracked or dented however in the paint/lacquer I can just feel them with a nail so can I use this method to lose them or will they be obvious as they are about 3" long rather than pin hole type chips?
what are your thoughts.
thanks


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## Naranto

Apologies to both for not replying sooner - only just read your messages. For some reason the 'Instant message notification' isn't!

Xzaros. Yes that paint should be fine, though depending on colour, you could match it closely with a similar shade. I had a similar 'problem' with my bumper (wife hit a wall) and used the same process and black cellulose as the car was needed a quick repair was required, hence why I used cellulose from a rattle can. Rather than post it all here, take a look at:
http://gwsforum.proboards.com/thread/1964/scuff-repairs

tubbylad you should be fine. Use the same method as shown above, though ideally if you can, spend a little more time to get it looking right.

Good luck to both and don't forget- if possible, don't rush it.


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## jk1714

Hi excellent thread, exactly what I was looking for!

I am looking to use your method, Naranto, on my car and I had a few questions I was hoping you could help me with before I begin?

I have had a read of both guides, one on here and the other one you did using touch up paint on proboards. I'm in a similiar situation in that the car that needs repairs doing to do it is daily driver and I can't really afford to let it sit for a few days before I sand, unfortunately.

Questions
1) I have some very large stone chips and deep scracthes on my bonnet, in fact the whole bonnet is a complete mess and the previous owner has tried to fill in some chips - pretty badly I must add  - due to this before I begin would it be a good idea to sand down the the pre-filled chips to flatten them down before proceeding?

2) Due to the large size of chips and the fact I need to do a quick job, when using touch up paint how long should I wait before the sanding process - iassume this will be a significantly shorter wait?

3) As such should i apply a couple of base paints of colour, followed by lacquer then sand or can i mix both and still get the same results? I also noticed on the proboards guide you did not sand after applying the paint and lacquer why is this?

4) After each stage of applying paint and working it, into the chips and scratches, does any excess need to be wiped off - or should the amount used be so small there there is no excess?

5) You mentioned to follow up with a cleaner and a wax after the mzerna final finish? what type of cleaner are you talking about here, is AG super resin polish good here?

6) Would this process work with a cheap halfords orbitary polisher or by hand? will the normal machine poliches work here? - working on limited funds!

7) and finally is there a need to clay before beginning the process? - the bonnet is filthy and I'm not sure the lighter fluid will be able to remove sme of the more ingrained dirt particles?

I apologise for the long list, but would be really helpful if you could help out - assuming you still adventure out here. :thumb:


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## Vyse

If you do not use a clear coat/lacquer mixed in or on top of the paint, come the polishing part, will the pad not turn the same color as my paint? i.e. I will be polishing paint directly instead of the clear coat layer.


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## Naranto

Hi JK

Questions
1) I have some very large stone chips and deep scracthes on my bonnet, in fact the whole bonnet is a complete mess and the previous owner has tried to fill in some chips - pretty badly I must add - due to this before I begin would it be a good idea to sand down the the pre-filled chips to flatten them down before proceeding?

_Yes. If the paint is higher than the surrounding panel then definitely sand back smooth. If the previous retouching has not filled the hole, don't worry as you will be 'filling' it when you apply your paint._

2) Due to the large size of chips and the fact I need to do a quick job, when using touch up paint how long should I wait before the sanding process - iassume this will be a significantly shorter wait?

_Very much depends on the weather conditions and paint type. s you need it done quickly, then I will assume you are using cellulose. If possible apply the paint in the shade or even better in a garage. Then if sunny move the car outside so the heat dries the paint quicker. Based on this you will need around 45 minutes, using cellulose paint.._

3) As such should i apply a couple of base paints of colour, followed by lacquer then sand or can i mix both and still get the same results? I also noticed on the proboards guide you did not sand after applying the paint and lacquer why is this?

_Base colour for the first couple of coats will be fine. Mix a 50/50 with clearcoat for the final couple of layers.
Regarding the Proboards guide, I assume you mean the bumper scuff? If so the finish was smooth enough to not warrant a need to sand back. _

4) After each stage of applying paint and working it, into the chips and scratches, does any excess need to be wiped off - or should the amount used be so small there there is no excess?

_Use a small amount and really work it in to the paintwork. Do not try and do a large area - keep it small so the paint does not dry off too quickly. By continually rubbing you will find much of the paint will come off, leaving a small amount on the surface. Do not attempt to wipe this off as you may 'pull' the paint out of the holes you have just filled. Using cellulose, I just keep rubbing it in till it is almost dry._

5) You mentioned to follow up with a cleaner and a wax after the mzerna final finish? what type of cleaner are you talking about here, is AG super resin polish good here?

_No to AG SRP as this has fillers and will hide any marks, but only temporaily. It also dries to white, so is noticeable. I use Lime Prime._

6) Would this process work with a cheap halfords orbitary polisher or by hand? will the normal machine poliches work here? - working on limited funds!

_If funds are tight get yourself a cheap random orbital from B&Q or Screwfix along with a few pads. TheoHalfords orbital polisher isn't really up to this type of job.
Cheap ROS here: http://www.screwfix.com/p/energer-enb593sdr-random-orbit-sander-230-240v/49158?_requestid=47020
Halfords have a 3 for 2 offer on all their polishes and waxes, so you could try there.
_
7) and finally is there a need to clay before beginning the process? - the bonnet is filthy and I'm not sure the lighter fluid will be able to remove some of the more ingrained dirt particles?

_Wash thoroughly with a strong detergent or again if funds are tight, if you have any paint brush cleaner on the shelf this will work well. Brush on, leave for a few minutes then wash off with hot soapy water. This cheap option will remove all waxes and oils. By all means clay the panel (Blutak is a cheap alternative that does work) before you start._

I apologise for the long list, but would be really helpful if you could help out - assuming you still adventure out here.

_No need to apologise, happy to help. Post up your pics. Unfortunately mu email notification for this thread isn't working, so only knew about if from the PM>_

VYSE
If you do not use a clear coat/lacquer mixed in or on top of the paint, come the polishing part, will the pad not turn the same color as my paint? i.e. I will be polishing paint directly instead of the clear coat layer.

_By all means add a little clearcoat to the final couple of layers, though once polished you will not notice either way. I didn't use any clearcoat on my bonnet and even though it was not an exact colour match you could not notice and difference between to original and new paint._

The same principles apply to any panel. 
http://gwsforum.proboards.com/thread/1984/paint-crack-repairs


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## jk1714

Thank you, that is really helpful. Going to try this out a scrap panel first before moving onto my own car - Decided to invest in a da, always put it on ebay after using it, seems to have very good resale value.

Will definitely post some pics up when done!

*Final q: *what is the difference between basecoat and cellulose paint, as the one that I get from paints4u is basecoat, with a seperate bottle of lacquer.


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## Naranto

Not absolutely sure, perhaps a bodyshop man can confirm, but I think the base coat has no gloss in it so the clearcoat will adhere better. Cellulose can be used without any additional clearcoat. But as I said I am not too sure.

Good idea to try it on a spare panel. This technique is 20% materials and time and 80% confidence!


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## Naranto

J99NNO said:


> Any chance of another little guide on a repair of plastic trim please? What paint do you use for that?


A little late in replying, but hope this helps.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=334489

and

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=340544


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## Naranto

Oh well.

Just a brief update on the car (SAAB 9000 CSE Anniversry) that was used to demonstrate the bonnet repair. It was hit in the side. Other driver has accepted totally liability, but I don't think I can get this out


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## Barchettaman

Oh *swearwords*, I can't see that polishing out, even with your skills! So that's it for the SAAB, what a pity.


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## dcampbell42

Would a tin of any random black paint from Halfords for example work? And just use the lid to spray into and dab from there with the cloth?


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## Naranto

Yes, but you will have to be quick as the paint will dry before it has time to fill the chips.


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## Bod42

Hey Naranto, awesome write up and really helpful for everyone on here.

I have seen at least 1 if not more write ups lately mixing the clear into the base coat and then applying. What are your thoughts on this? Wouldnt it dilute the colour?


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## Naranto

For small stone chips I would keep it to the single colour. When polished your really would not be able to see a difference.


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## Kickasskev

Anyone actually tried this apart from the OP? If so post results please, would be keen to see others 👍

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## steelghost

Larry @ AMMO just uploaded this video:






...and I thought the Loew Cornell pen he uses was interesting and possibly of use to anyone with a good few stone chips to repair.


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## Itstony

*Good read.*

Never read this before, great read. Simple ingenuity :thumb:


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## Huntsman

*it is a shame the photos have gone*

At least I cannot see them ;(


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## RossyL

Still the best guide for this, is there any way we can put the photos back in the OP? As i see this as a brilliant resource


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## huddo

RossyL said:


> Still the best guide for this, is there any way we can put the photos back in the OP? As i see this as a brilliant resource


Agreed , if there's some way of reinstating the pictures that would be brilliant.


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## Christian6984

Huntsman said:


> At least I cannot see them ;(





RossyL said:


> Still the best guide for this, is there any way we can put the photos back in the OP? As i see this as a brilliant resource





huddo said:


> Agreed , if there's some way of reinstating the pictures that would be brilliant.


https://web.archive.org/web/2011090...ingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=1985692


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## James246

Would this method work with paint and clearcoat from an aerosol? Perhaps spray a bit of each in the lid and dab it in?


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## James246

James246 said:


> Would this method work with paint and clearcoat from an aerosol? Perhaps spray a bit of each in the lid and dab it in?


I'm going to answer my own question as I just went ahead and did it. Yes you can do this  The aerosol paint is pretty thin so more coats may be required. I did a few colour coats then dabbed some laquer on top. Both sprayed into the lids. You could possibly try mixing colour + laquer into one lid.


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