# Farecla G6 and G3, Which has the most cut ??



## ChuckH (Nov 23, 2006)

Farecla G6 and G3, Which has the most cut ??

Thanks !!!


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## bizzyfingers (Jul 30, 2009)

g3 mate


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## bizzyfingers (Jul 30, 2009)

or i could be wrong, I know g3 is for cutting g10 is for finishing as I have some


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## burger (Feb 10, 2009)

G3 is the most aggressive and a very good polish at that.


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## bizzyfingers (Jul 30, 2009)

burger said:


> G3 is the most aggressive and a very good polish at that.


it gets slated but ive had some great results with it. it is very aggressive but as long as you know before you start.


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## jl_ep3 (May 2, 2011)

I always thought that you needed to use water with G3 and nothing with G6?.. Am I right?


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## burger (Feb 10, 2009)

All of the G range requires water, only the profile range farecla do don't need water.


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## bizzyfingers (Jul 30, 2009)




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## ChuckH (Nov 23, 2006)

Thanks Guys !!!


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

jl_ep3 said:


> I always thought that you needed to use water with G3 and nothing with G6?.. Am I right?


That is how I understand it.


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

G3, the use of water it to help the product work longer as it will dry out and also it helps to keep your pads cleaner as the water breaks down what is left.

G3 is a excellent compound but its let down is it requires further refining but the finish it leaves would fool you into thinking you are done with the machine but it will fall back with in weeks.

Ive used its for 15+ years in the bodyshop enviroment.


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## jl_ep3 (May 2, 2011)

moosh said:


> G3, the use of water it to help the product work longer as it will dry out and also it helps to keep your pads cleaner as the water breaks down what is left.
> 
> G3 is a excellent compound but its let down is it requires further refining but the finish it leaves would fool you into thinking you are done with the machine but it will fall back with in weeks.
> 
> Ive used its for 15+ years in the bodyshop enviroment.


Don't quite understand what you are saying.. Do you mean it needs a finishing polish after the compound?


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

jl_ep3 said:


> Don't quite understand what you are saying.. Do you mean it needs a finishing polish after the compound?


Sorry mate I'm on the phone so difficult to read back what I wrote but yes it requires further finishing. It will look as if it is finished down but it will require further finishing as most compounds do.


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## Dan J (Jun 18, 2008)

Yep g3 will chomp at the bit with ease in the right hands but as moosh has stated it will need a finishing polish after to refine the finish.
Great product imo, have been using it from day one of training to now 17yrs later....wouldn't be without it.


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

Dan J said:


> Yep g3 will chomp at the bit with ease in the right hands but as mosh has stated it will need a finishing polish after to refine the finish.
> Great product imo, have been using it from day one of training to now 17yrs later....wouldn't be without it.


Check us old school warriors rep'ing the G3!

Great stuff, would be good if they gave it a revamp and an update :thumb:


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## maraalfa (Sep 22, 2011)

I've used G3 on the roof of the mini (black) and cut through a lot of the scratches but needs more working. What pad would you recommend on a rotary for heavy cut? I'm following with Carlack NSC polish and 476 wax


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

maraalfa said:


> I've used G3 on the roof of the mini (black) and cut through a lot of the scratches but needs more working. What pad would you recommend on a rotary for heavy cut? I'm following with Carlack NSC polish and 476 wax


The farecla G-Mop :thumb:


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## Farécla Trade (Apr 14, 2011)

Hi all
Thought this might help.

G3 is a Regular Grade compound available in paste and liquid versions suitable for early Medium Solids & High Soilds paint systems. 

G6 is a Rapid Grade compound also available in paste and liquid versions, for the more difficult to polish paints systems.


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