# wonder wheels hot wheels - like iron-x



## Techgeek

Just tried the new hot wheels wheel cleaner, It stinks like iron x,and it turns ingrained brake dust deep purple like iron x, it's quite thick and clingy, and it was only 4.99 for 750ml.
Very impressed.:thumb:


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## sean20

wher did you get that from?


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## Avanti

sean20 said:


> wher did you get that from?


Probably Halfords :thumb:


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## Techgeek

Maccess


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## Avanti

Techgeek said:


> Just tried the new hot wheels wheel cleaner, It stinks like iron x,and it turns ingrained brake dust deep purple like iron x, it's quite thick and clingy, and it was only 4.99 for 750ml.
> Very impressed.:thumb:


Well done Sir, and thanks for trying it out, the info suggests 
viscous liquid
dark purple
characteristic sulphur odour
ph 7.6-8.6
360cps

But the price is similar to the other offerings


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## Techgeek

Really? last time I bought iron-x it was about 13 quid for 500ml, this was 4.99 for 750ml, unless iron-x has come down in price recently?


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## Avanti

Techgeek said:


> Really? last time I bought iron-x it was about 13 quid for 500ml, this was 4.99 for 750ml, unless iron-x has come down in price recently?


:lol:
That's a better price still :thumb:

Wonder wheels Hot
now if only I could get an account with maccess


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## HC1001

Right come on guy's we need to find stockists!! I would not mind giving this a try.............:thumb: (other than HALFRAUDS!!)


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## bigmc

Avanti said:


> Well done Sir, and thanks for trying it out, the info suggests
> viscous liquid
> dark purple
> characteristic sulphur odour
> ph 7.6-8.6
> 360cps
> 
> But the price is similar to the other offerings


Wonedr what the pH is when it's had it's exotherm? Anyone willing to get their hands dirty.


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## petemattw

halfords £9.98, amazon, google it - loads of suppliers


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## ddave05

Wonder if this stuff can be used on bodywork like Brake Duster or IronX


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## Techgeek

I'll try a bit on my van, its a bit of a shed so if it burns the paint no loss.
Its good that its so cheap, I've used a few bottles of iron-x but recently I've found myself being stingy with it because its damn expensive and times are tight.


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## donnyboy

Is this stuff PH neutral like IronX?


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## ddave05

Techgeek said:


> I'll try a bit on my van, its a bit of a shed so if it burns the paint no loss.
> Its good that its so cheap, I've used a few bottles of iron-x but recently I've found myself being stingy with it because its damn expensive and times are tight.


Well to be fair, the paint on the bodywork is (i guess) similar to the paint on wheels (i.e basecoat and laquer). I'm not sure if wheels are powdercoated from factory or painted actually.

Either way, I hope this stuff is usable on paint! Will save a lot of cash by not having to buy IronX or Brake Duster


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## MirfieldMat

Bought some today from Tesco - £7 500ml.

Works quite well, having not tried iron-x I cant offer a comparison but it did a decent job. Required two applications to clean the front wheels of a Qashqai I did today but it did have 3000miles worth of craap on it.

I then tried it on an Audi A3 and agitated this time, still didnt clean every bit of them first time round but it works.

From what I have seen of iron-x, brake duster, they turn purple when they work - this stuff is purple and turns red which is harder to tell if its working fully.

Also don't rate the trigger head on the bottle, squirts in a stream as opposed to a mist, which I would prefer.


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## Avanti

MirfieldMat said:


> Bought some today from Tesco - £7 500ml.
> 
> Works quite well, having not tried iron-x I cant offer a comparison but it did a decent job. Required two applications to clean the front wheels of a Qashqai I did today but it did have 3000miles worth of craap on it.
> 
> I then tried it on an Audi A3 and agitated this time, still didnt clean every bit of them first time round but it works.
> 
> From what I have seen of iron-x, brake duster, they turn purple when they work - this stuff is purple and turns red which is harder to tell if its working fully.
> 
> Also don't rate* the trigger head on the bottle, squirts in a stream as opposed to a mist, which I would prefer*.


Check which way you turn the nozzle, often they have both stream and spray options, 180 degrees apart :thumb:

Will check asda, as the one at halfords is 500ml not 750ml (the OP got himself a bargain) the tesco price for one bottle is similar to the unit price of buying 3 from Halfords in the 342 deal


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## MirfieldMat

> Check which way you turn the nozzle, often they have both stream and spray options, 180 degrees apart


never thought of that :wall: - will check that tomorrow.


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## Mr Yellow

bigmc said:


> Wonedr what the pH is when it's had it's exotherm? Anyone willing to get their hands dirty.


I am seeing a lot of this 'exotherm' terminology. What exactly are you guys meaning by this?


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## Avanti

x12yhp said:


> I am seeing a lot of this 'exotherm' terminology. What exactly are you guys meaning by this?


It's the heat produced by chemical reaction (at that time TFR can strip wax ) :thumb:


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## IanG

This could be interesting


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## Mr Yellow

Avanti said:


> It's the heat produced by chemical reaction (at that time TFR can strip wax ) :thumb:


Ok... right. So just the chemical reaction then! 

Would you care to direct me to a scientific piece about this 'exothermically activated wax stripping'?

ps. it does amaze me that most google searches on the matter tent to bring up at least one instance of detailling world discussions... seems to me that DW is leading the way in this subject matter.


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## Avanti

x12yhp said:


> Ok... right. So just the chemical reaction then!
> 
> *Would you care to direct me to a scientific piece about this 'exothermically activated wax stripping'?*
> 
> ps. it does amaze me that most google searches on the matter tent to bring up at least one instance of detailling world discussions... seems to me that DW is leading the way in this subject matter.


I don't know, however it is the only way i can can logically see high or low ph solutions being able to strip wax , as the acid or alkali give or recieve ions, that creates heat , it's been like 30yrs since I studied chemistry, however the solution would have to be 'going some' and I doubt it would be publicly available unless one has access to Dr Frankenstien's lab


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## Mr Yellow

Ok. With all respect and all that, there is misinformation going on here. The amount of heat produced is miniscule. Like really really really tiny. It is much less than the heat you would provide by washing with warm water, or leaving the vehicle in the sun. The heat from reaction is not the key. To be honest with you, there is no guarantee that any given reaction is exothermic at all - it is quite plausible that it actually goes the other way and COOLS as a result. Again, however, it is not an appreciable effect.

The reason that TFRs and similar strip wax is because the 'alkalinity' reacts with the wax. To cut a long story short, you make soap. If you wanted to make soap at home, you would get something strongly alkaline (soda or potash, for instance) and mix them with a longish hydrocarbon chain (animal fat, for instance). The result is soap. Now, the TFR is your alkaline and the wax is your hydrocarbon chain. The chemistry is the same. You basically react with the wax and turn it into soap which you subsequently wash away. It is no more complicated than that.

Whilst I am talking on it... think what happens when you get something caustic on your fingers... they will become slippery (before you start panicing because they are burning!). This is, again, soap. The caustic reacts with the oils in your skin and you get soap. Believe it or not, this reaction is the cornerstone of commercial dishwashing. The chemicals are not foamy and filled with surfactants... they are strongly caustic solutions which react with the oils in foods and basically make their own soap.

Since you mentioned low ph... this is a bit different. Actually, mid -low pH products will be much less inclined to remove wax because the above reaction does not occur. At high ph you get the soap and that actually acts as a bridge between the aqueous phase (i.e. your product) and the oil phase (i.e. the wax) - anything else in the product can then get easy access to the wax. When you do not have this reaction occurring, it is inherently more difficult for a product to actually make good contact with the surface. The wax makes it inherently hydrophobic so you need a whole bunch of surfactants to overcome this. If you do not have them, it will be very hard for a product to actually do anything against the wax.

I wasn't meaning to seem rude here... there are just a lot of DW myths which don't actually follow along any good scientific principles. Since I do this as a profession (and I am not selling to any of you lot, so have no vested interest!) I am trying to give a little something back to maybe help out.


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## Avanti

x12yhp said:


> Ok. With all respect and all that, there is misinformation going on here. The amount of heat produced is miniscule. Like really really really tiny. It is much less than the heat you would provide by washing with warm water, or leaving the vehicle in the sun. The heat from reaction is not the key. To be honest with you, there is no guarantee that any given reaction is exothermic at all - it is quite plausible that it actually goes the other way and COOLS as a result. Again, however, it is not an appreciable effect.
> 
> *The reason that TFRs and similar strip wax is because the 'alkalinity' reacts with the wax. *To cut a long story short, you make soap. If you wanted to make soap at home, you would get something strongly alkaline (soda or potash, for instance) and mix them with a longish hydrocarbon chain (animal fat, for instance). The result is soap. Now, the TFR is your alkaline and the wax is your hydrocarbon chain. The chemistry is the same. You basically react with the wax and turn it into soap which you subsequently wash away. It is no more complicated than that.
> 
> Whilst I am talking on it... think what happens when you get something caustic on your fingers... they will become slippery (before you start panicing because they are burning!). This is, again, soap. The caustic reacts with the oils in your skin and you get soap. Believe it or not, this reaction is the cornerstone of commercial dishwashing. The chemicals are not foamy and filled with surfactants... they are strongly caustic solutions which react with the oils in foods and basically make their own soap.
> 
> Since you mentioned low ph... this is a bit different. Actually, mid -low pH products will be much less inclined to remove wax because the above reaction does not occur. At high ph you get the soap and that actually acts as a bridge between the aqueous phase (i.e. your product) and the oil phase (i.e. the wax) - anything else in the product can then get easy access to the wax. When you do not have this reaction occurring, it is inherently more difficult for a product to actually make good contact with the surface. The wax makes it inherently hydrophobic so you need a whole bunch of surfactants to overcome this. If you do not have them, it will be very hard for a product to actually do anything against the wax.
> 
> I wasn't meaning to seem rude here... there are just a lot of DW myths which don't actually follow along any good scientific principles. Since I do this as a profession (and I am not selling to any of you lot, so have no vested interest!) I am trying to give a little something back to maybe help out.


I hear what you are saying, and as said in my post the reaction would have to be going some. I agree on the myths that often spread through DW and other forums, many of us have been on here a long while, and enough to demonstrate washing up liquid, or TFR stripping wax, The halfords value wash is a wax stripper (as it is chemically designed to do so) not because of the PH but because of the solvents in there that react with the wax, also tar remover , when I use a wax stripping product the wax coating goes slimy on the panels, I only conclude this to the wax in the solution mix, I don't experience this with high PH washes (which are diluted down) when applied to the panels. It's easy enough for many to demonstrate, yet I do not recall anybody making a demonstration


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## Mr Yellow

Avanti said:


> I hear what you are saying, and as said in my post the reaction would have to be going some. I agree on the myths that often spread through DW and other forums, many of us have been on here a long while, and enough to demonstrate washing up liquid, or TFR stripping wax, The halfords value wash is a wax stripper (as it is chemically designed to do so) not because of the PH but because of the solvents in there that react with the wax, also tar remover , when I use a wax stripping product the wax coating goes slimy on the panels, I only conclude this to the wax in the solution mix, I don't experience this with high PH washes (which are diluted down) when applied to the panels. It's easy enough for many to demonstrate, yet I do not recall anybody making a demonstration


Of course there are other ways it can all happen but a chemical description of all of this would read more like an undergrad course! The description above just happens to be the biggy. But the bottom line is that this exothermic stuff is just all wrong.


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## Avanti

x12yhp said:


> Of course there are other ways it can all happen but a chemical description of all of this would read more like an undergrad course! The description above just happens to be the biggy. But the bottom line is that this exothermic stuff is just all wrong.


In all fairness it was Bigmc who raised exothermic in post #9, I posted on what I understood exothermic to mean 
All I know is that using AG PW (ph 13.45 neat) via the power washer (and other products) , many paste waxes lasted a good 20-30 washes (3 months) before beading significantly reduced, I would expect the wax to 'erode' in that time anyway, so rule out the wash solution doing so. If I do want to strip wax I won't be reaching for washing up liquid, as I understand it to be an old wife tale, and the expensive sacrificial layer of wax on the car that comes in a big tub suitable often for 30 applications or more is a little more robust than what some guys are posting here, I'm very confident that not only collinte produce detergent proof protection products :thumb:


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## Avanti

MirfieldMat said:


> Bought some today from Tesco - £7 500ml.
> 
> Works quite well, having not tried iron-x I cant offer a comparison but it did a decent job. Required two applications to clean the front wheels of a Qashqai I did today but it did have 3000miles worth of craap on it.
> 
> I then tried it on an Audi A3 and agitated this time, still didnt clean every bit of them first time round but it works.
> 
> From what I have seen of iron-x, brake duster, they turn purple when they work -* this stuff is purple and turns red which is harder to tell if its working fully.*
> 
> Also don't rate the trigger head on the bottle, squirts in a stream as opposed to a mist, which I would prefer.


Back on topic, I'm not going to dismiss this until I try it myself, as you mentioned you may have the nozzle on stream instead of spray then perhaps too much product is applied at a point, the pics show the product as clear(ish) when applied , changing colour to red as it reacts, :thumb:


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## gkerr4

Turtle wax 'ice' wheel cleaner does this too - it is thick-ish cloudy liquid which mildly foams when sprayed and turns purple as it works and runs off the wheels. It's one of the best wheel cleaners I've used and on moderately dirty wheels it is a genuine spray-on / rinse off product. Is it similar to ironX too? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Avanti

Hope the OP does not mind, got some of the wheel cleaner to try
applied to a couple of wheels



















3 minutes later



















Now a video of the rinse down (click on the pic to play)



Then after the rinse, notice the beading is still present from the MER Hybrid wax which was applied weeks ago and had hits of TW MPC, AB Very Cherry, AG PW, Carplan PW shampoo and Magifoam, think it's fair to say the wax is not stripped 









yes agree with the OP does stink (well not stink but not the most pleasant of fragrances) I will try this diluted at 1:10, to see if the effects are reasonable, as these products would work out expensive for regular cleaning.


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## Tricky Red

The ph value suggests that it is mildly alkaline. IIRC Wonder wheels used to do exactly the same in the old version. i.e turn pink and sticky. 

Not the same as Iron X I am sure.


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## Avanti

Tricky Red said:


> *The ph value suggests that it is mildly alkaline. *IIRC Wonder wheels used to do exactly the same in the old version. i.e turn pink and sticky.
> 
> Not the same as Iron X I am sure.


Perhaps X12yhp can come back and explain to you all about PH , as some are getting too hell bent on PH, although it is alkaline, it is much lower than the acid free wheel cleaners many of you use without further thought, less than a lot of the car shampoo's too , the 'old' WW is acidic, I don't recall it changing colour though (other than the dirt solution disolving)


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## Tricky Red

Not getting hell bent on the alkalinity. I said that it was 'mildly' alkaline, not a salt solution or anything. It was just an observation. I just thought that Iron X was PH neutral. 

That's all.


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## Avanti

Tricky Red said:


> Not getting hell bent on the alkalinity. I said that it was 'mildly' alkaline, not a salt solution or anything. It was just an observation. I just thought that Iron X was PH neutral.
> 
> That's all.


Ah , I see, whether it be Brake Duster, Iron x , WW hot wheels or TW ICE wheel cleaner, they all work out 'pricey' compared to say AB VC or Bilberry, the data sheet I have for Iron x does not say ph neutral but says not applicable, which I would expect on a product like tar remover or alcohol, as the ph only relates to the ability to give or recieve ions


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## Tricky Red

True, and I agree. I just use Bilberry when needed and shampoo and water when not. I don't really let the wheels get that dirty in all seriousness.


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## Avanti

Tricky Red said:


> True, and I agree. I just use Bilberry when needed and shampoo and water when not. *I don't really let the wheels get that dirty in all seriousness.*


I agree, prevention is better than cure, I don't think the WW works any better than a regular cleaner, just the 'novelty' of the chameleon effect


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## Cquartz

Avanti said:


> Ah , I see, whether it be Brake Duster, Iron x , WW hot wheels or TW ICE wheel cleaner, they all work out 'pricey' compared to say AB VC or Bilberry, the data sheet I have for Iron x does not say ph neutral but says not applicable, which I would expect on a product like tar remover or alcohol, as the ph only relates to the ability to give or recieve ions


you have mistake there ,i dont know what data sheet you have but ironX is pH neutral, 6.02 in last test we've done, we test in east batch production.
send me email and you will get the latest EU MSDS legislated for ironX.
you are welcome to test it with simple ph testers, both items or all items you mentioned above and show it to all.


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## -Kev-

does this actually remove iron based contamients like brake duster and iron x do, or does it just go the same sort of colour?..


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## Avanti

Cquartz said:


> you have mistake there ,i dont know what data sheet you have* but ironX is pH neutral, 6.02 in last test we've done,* we test in east batch production.
> send me email and you will get the latest EU MSDS legislated for ironX.
> you are welcome to test it with simple ph testers, both items or all items you mentioned above and show it to all.


:thumb: Hmm, as I understand, ph neutral is ph 6.999 (ph 7) but a mute point, the data sheet I looked at may not be the latest edition, but either way none are as far away from ph neutral as say the popular wheel cleaners :thumb:



-Kev- said:


> does this actually remove iron based contamients like brake duster and iron x do, or does it just go the same sort of colour?..


I don't know, the product is marketed as a wheel cleaner, I did spray some in the kitchen sink, to see if it changed colour.

Only posted the 'review' for readers to see the product in action, as the prices are very similar (not sure why this thread 'appears' to be turning into an attack Avanti) there are lots of products out there and even more DW members, so the more reviews available on all products the better IMO :thumb:


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## Techgeek

I done a 50:50 today on a badly contaminated wheel with iron-x and hot wheels. Iron-x is definitely the stronger product, no doubt about it however hot wheels is around a third of the price. I'm finding it really hard to choose, iron-x works very well, but is expensive, hot wheels does the same job but takes about double the dwelling time to get the same result. I'll probably end up continuing to use both products, iron-x as an annual decontamination and hot wheels as a regular wash.


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## Techgeek

I was back in maccess today and noticed they have the 500ml for £3.49, bargain.


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## Avanti

Techgeek said:


> I was back in maccess today and noticed they have the 500ml for £3.49, bargain.



:lol: Do you have to add vat to the prices, still a good price either way :thumb:


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## Mr Yellow

Avanti said:


> :thumb: Hmm, as I understand, ph neutral is ph 6.999 (ph 7) but a mute point, the data sheet I looked at may not be the latest edition, but either way none are as far away from ph neutral as say the popular wheel cleaners :thumb:


In the big world, anything from 6-8 is neutral. To call something acidic because it has the equivalent of a drop of lemon juice in a litre of water would be silly. As example, our water supply (directly from the taps) is anywhere from 7.5-8.5. To hit 7 on the head is a pointless pain in the butt.

Iron-X is, for all intents and purposes, neutral.


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## Avanti

x12yhp said:


> In the big world, anything from 6-8 is neutral. To call something acidic because it has the equivalent of a drop of lemon juice in a litre of water would be silly. As example, our water supply (directly from the taps) is anywhere from 7.5-8.5. To hit 7 on the head is a pointless pain in the butt.
> *
> Iron-X is, for all intents and purposes, neutral.*


As is Wolf's Brake Duster, Sonax Full Effect, P21s wheel cleaner and WW Hot Wheels :thumb:


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## nick_mcuk

Cquartz said:


> you have mistake there ,i dont know what data sheet you have but ironX is pH neutral, 6.02 in last test we've done, we test in east batch production.
> send me email and you will get the latest EU MSDS legislated for ironX.
> you are welcome to test it with simple ph testers, both items or all items you mentioned above and show it to all.


Its a long time since I was in a Science lesson....but a PH of 6 suggests that IronX is actually acidic then because a PH of 7 would be neutral.??

If the carplan stuff is cheaper but slightly weaker then I think people will go with the cheaper option....times are harder now and people will not buy a product that is more expensive.

I have always thought the IronX was bloody expensive....


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## maesal

Cquartz said:


> you have mistake there ,i dont know what data sheet you have but ironX is pH neutral, 6.02 in last test we've done, we test in east batch production.
> send me email and you will get the latest EU MSDS legislated for ironX.
> you are welcome to test it with simple ph testers, both items or all items you mentioned above and show it to all.


Here you have a reading from a lab :thumb:










The water from my city has exactly the same pH.


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## Mr Yellow

nick_mcuk said:


> Its a long time since I was in a Science lesson....but a PH of 6 suggests that IronX is actually acidic then because a PH of 7 would be neutral.??


Yes but, like above, it is pretty much irrelevant. 6-8 is very neutral in the real world.


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## Ralphvxr

Interesting read this will keep an eye for it at my local Tesco and compare as i have used IronX and thought it was brilliant 

Just a thought but DODO might have to start paying royalties to us soon with all this talk of pH. :lol:


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## -Raven-

x12yhp said:


> As example, our water supply (directly from the taps) is anywhere from 7.5-8.5.


7.61pH @ 22:00pm here in Darwin, NT, Australia! 
(just did the boiler water tests tonight! :lol


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## donnyboy

Got a 500ml bottle today at Tesco for £7. See what its like the next time the wheels are dirty.


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## Avanti

Diluted some 1:10 to try out

wheel before










vac'd the car whilst it dwelled , it's obvious the colour change is not as pronounced in the diluted version



















Rinse off video












then went onto foam the car with a small amount of magifoam



















So will use it neat or 1:1 but the cleaning effect is still good.


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## guy_92

Avanti said:


> Hope the OP does not mind, got some of the wheel cleaner to try
> applied to a couple of wheels


That looks impressive.

PS
Have you got a leak somewhere on your pressure washer? Maybe in the hose or something?


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## Avanti

guy_92 said:


> That looks impressive.
> 
> PS
> *Have you got a leak somewhere on your pressure washer? Maybe in the hose or something?*


It's been like that for a while, the guy at Lavor, told me which bits to check so that I can order the part, he says usually the seal at the detergent intake is what causes the pulsing , so if it's leaking there BINGO :thumb:


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## JJ_

So does it infact remove iron content like iron x or does it just turn purple to try and copy iron-x and infact is no different to many other off the shelf alloy wheel cleaner.


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## Avanti

JJ_ said:


> So does it infact remove iron content like iron x or does it just turn purple to try and copy iron-x and infact is no different to many other off the shelf alloy wheel cleaner.


I think this has been on the market a long while, as has TW Ice Wheel cleaner (all smell similar and contain the same organic salt chemical)
I don't know, not sure why all of a sudden in 2011 lots of people's cars are getting covered in iron filings?
I don't think the idea of this thread is a vote thread of Iron-x vs brake duster (decon gel) vs WWHW. But more for readers to learn of what products exist and how they fair (not a sales pitch)
But the question was asked in post #37, two demo's in post #29 and #50 , the corners of the wheel rims look impressive (to me) considering there was no brushing and in post #50 a 1:10 mix was used, watch this space as the TW ICE is going to be tried over the weekend :thumb:


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## JJ_

What I am trying to find out here is if you spray iron x on after the wonder wheels hot wheels does it remove more industrial fallout. Or is hot wheels actually good enough on its own. 

Have to say there has always been industrial fallout but only FK have really ever made a product to address it, however, I personally dont own iron-x because I am just not sure if I need it tbh. 

Just trying to guage whether hot wheels is doing the job that iron x can but at a lower cost ? 

Could you spray some iron-x on a wheel cleaned by hot wheels avanti ? 

John.


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## Avanti

JJ_ said:


> What I am trying to find out here is if you spray iron x on after the wonder wheels hot wheels does it remove more industrial fallout. Or is hot wheels actually good enough on its own.
> 
> Have to say there has always been industrial fallout but only FK have really ever made a product to address it, however, I personally dont own iron-x because I am just not sure if I need it tbh.
> 
> Just trying to guage whether hot wheels is doing the job that iron x can but at a lower cost ?
> 
> Could you spray some iron-x on a wheel cleaned by hot wheels avanti ?
> 
> John.


Oh I see, TBH they are all relatively expensive , the novelty is indeed the colour change, 
I don't have any Iron-x to try for you 
I suppose the AG and AS fallout remover is still worth considering as they have been around a good while, will check out the FK offering :thumb:


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## JJ_

Just bought some as fallout remover. See how it goes  fair bit cheaper.


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## donnyboy

I tried the hot wheels the other day on the GF's car. The wheels weren't that contaminated as I had used IronX and Tardis on them a month or so ago, so the bad stuff was all gone. It did turn purple and did a good job of cleaning the wheels though.

I also had to agitate it with a brush as the hose was not powerful enough to remove it all after leaving it a few minutes. With a power washer it should remove no problem as per Avanti's post.

I'll try it on my wheels tonight as they are always very clean so we'll see what it does on them.

It does stink abit the way IronX does too.


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## Guest

this works on glass aswell - trust me


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## Subc

Totally converted to this type of product used the Hot Wheels as was grabbed by the detailing fairy to try some out,used on Mrs car wheels not bad but some tough spots, left on 5 mins power washed off 100% clean.


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## 204driver

*plastic wheel trim dressing*

Anyone able suggest something to dress and add a shine to plastic wheel trims??


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## Avanti

204driver said:


> Anyone able suggest something to dress and add a shine to plastic wheel trims??


The spray waxes that folk have tossed to one side comes in handy.


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## ant_s

As JJ said, would be interesting to see if after an application of Hot Wheels, there would be anything for Iron-x to pull out.

May get a bottle of this and try out - and i've got the perfect wheels thinking about it :speechles


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## Avanti

ant_s said:


> As JJ said, *would be interesting to see if after an application of Hot Wheels, there would be anything for Iron-x to pull out.
> *
> May get a bottle of this and try out - and i've got the perfect wheels thinking about it :speechles


Same could be said running the test the other way around, remember how Kirby used to try and sell their vacuum cleaners?
They would get you to use your own, and then use theirs afterwards to show there is still dust in the upholstery, 

Please do get some to try though, would be interesting to learn from more reviews :thumb:


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## will89c

So can it be used on paint work?


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## Dazz

will89c said:


> So can it be used on paint work?


Would like to know this to??


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## NeilA

will89c said:


> So can it be used on paint work?


Did anyone find out whether wonder wheels can be used on paintwork?


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## james_death

Holly thread resurrection, cannot see any issue using on paint it only reacts to muck and i did test iron-x after this and there was still contamination, if it removes any its only minor to nothing removed.

From my experience.


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