# Buffing off Collinite 476s



## wrx man (Apr 18, 2008)

Washed the car today and gave it a coat of colly.

Took me over an hour to buff it off as it had set like rock.

A/ Did i leave it on too long (15 mins ish) ?
B/ Should i/Could i have used a bit of Last touch to assist?
C/ Should i wax/buff a panel at a time?
D/ Other?

Please help as my arms are shot to pieces lol


----------



## -ROM- (Feb 23, 2007)

a) no 15 mins doesn't sound like too long
b) yes you could have used a QD to help
c) yes i would do a panel at a time
d) it could just be the cold that made it so hard to buff off.


----------



## reign (Oct 6, 2008)

in cold weather i would say do panel at a time. havin said that cold may be the reason it hasnt cured proper. i normally apply to whole car then when its all on start to take off where i started. havent really had any problems with take off that qd didnt fix lol

qd will make it a lot easier to buff off


----------



## Jochen (May 21, 2007)

Try using a glaze first. I put Colli over Black Hole or White Diamond and it buffs off very easily. :thumb:


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

15 mins is too long in this climate - buff it off after 5 or so and you should be fine.


----------



## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

Also do a swipe test, this will tell you when the wax is ready to buff off.


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

I had all sorts of issues using this in the cold last year - sold it as a result...

1. try shorter times eg 1 panel and off
2. QD helps
3. get it on MEGA thin, although this still didnt help me 

look out for wax holograms in the next few days when you see the car in the light again. Thats what really turned me off this product.

I firmly admit I never got the hang of it, as 476 is a good product, but quite frankly if its THAT hard FOR ME.....


----------



## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

i apply colly 2 panels at a time, then go back and buff off (starting with the panel applied to first), so its only been left for a minute or two. works o.k for me.


----------



## parish (Jun 29, 2006)

Hmm, so it cures quicker in lower temperatures? 

FWIW, I applied the last of my 845 a couple of weeks ago when the ambient temp. was only 3-4C and it buffed off fine.


----------



## Leodhasach (Sep 15, 2008)

I feel your (quite literal) pain...

The first time I used 476s, I applied it to the whole car then realised 'It's 1:30am, sod it I'm off to bed', with a view to buffing it off in the morning (car was stored in a clean garage).

BIG MISTAKE.

It took me hours to buff it off, and even then I was left with wax hologramming. My arms were killing me for days :doublesho

However, what I do now is apply to a panel, and the next one, before buffing off the first panel, apply to the 3rd panel, buff, etc. I've had great results like this and no problems whatsoever.

476 is a great product...when used the right way


----------



## -ROM- (Feb 23, 2007)

parish said:


> *Hmm, so it cures quicker in lower temperatures? *
> 
> FWIW, I applied the last of my 845 a couple of weeks ago when the ambient temp. was only 3-4C and it buffed off fine.


That's the problem it's not curing, more setting and going hard.

Think if you dropped honey on a warm surface vs a cold surface which do you think would be easier to remove?


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Dipesh said:


> Also do a swipe test, this will tell you when the wax is ready to buff off.


Exactly that above.
I normally do 2 panels then return to the first one do the swipe test If it come clean away then buff, if not leave till I do another panel. Then continue as before till the car is complete. I only use the tin as a guide not as fact. Try and let the wax tell you when its ready. But the swipe test regardless of what type of wax you use. This way I takes all weather and climatic conditions into play.:thumb:

QD will help to remove the colly.

Gordon.


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

parish said:


> Hmm, so it cures quicker in lower temperatures?
> 
> FWIW, I applied the last of my 845 a couple of weeks ago when the ambient temp. was only 3-4C and it buffed off fine.


I also have and LOVE 845 - have used it on a dark car in full sun and even at similar temps to you, and never once had the slightest issue with it. TBH, it s the only Colli product I use any more.

I also like how its so easy to use with a UDM and finishing pad, making it pretty quick even for doing big barges. I wish I never bothered to try 476 and just got this first of all :lol:


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

parish said:


> Hmm, so it cures quicker in lower temperatures?
> 
> FWIW, I applied the last of my 845 a couple of weeks ago when the ambient temp. was only 3-4C and it buffed off fine.


845 is a much easier wax to apply and remove. Great for people to get used to the product. It has slightly less durability than 476 not that you would notice really. But much more user friendly.

I normally try and get people to go down the 845 route, rather than straight in to the heavy Colly pastes.

How did you find The 845 Parish?

Gordon


----------



## Serious (Mar 19, 2008)

I apply thinly with a megs foam pad and remove straight away. One pannel at a time or 1/2 the bonnet/roof. Then re-buff after 1/2 and hour or so with a clean mf so get rid of any hologrames. I've never had any problems doing it this way and durability is still awesome. 

HTH.


----------



## parish (Jun 29, 2006)

caledonia said:


> 845 is a much easier wax to apply and remove. Great for people to get used to the product. It has slightly less durability than 476 not that you would notice really. But much more user friendly.


TBH I think the difference in durability is a moot point as two coats of 845 - which is the least durable of the three - will last all winter, say Nov-Mar/Apr, although it may be more of an issue for you guys north of the border as the winters are harder so I imagine you have a lot more road salt to deal with?



caledonia said:


> I normally try and get people to go down the 845 route, rather than straight in to the heavy Colly pastes.
> 
> How did you find The 845 Parish?


I like it, it's very easy to use even, as said above, in low temps. Also, it quickly forms a wax 'plug' on the applicator which prevents it soaking in so all the product you put on the applicator goes on the car which means a bottle lasts ages. I got mine as a sample off someone here a couple of years ago. There was about an inch left in the bottle and I've used it over two winters on several cars so I'd estimate I got about 15 coats out of that.

Given my comments about durability and the ease of use I'll probably buy 845 for next winter rather than 476s (or 915).

Only thing to remember is that it solidifies in the bottle in low temps so you really need to keep it in the house over winter.


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

parish said:


> TBH I think the difference in durability is a moot point as two coats of 845 - which is the least durable of the three - will last all winter, say Nov-Mar/Apr, although it may be more of an issue for you guys north of the border as the winters are harder so I imagine you have a lot more road salt to deal with?
> 
> I like it, it's very easy to use even, as said above, in low temps. Also, it quickly forms a wax 'plug' on the applicator which prevents it soaking in so all the product you put on the applicator goes on the car which means a bottle lasts ages. I got mine as a sample off someone here a couple of years ago. There was about an inch left in the bottle and I've used it over two winters on several cars so I'd estimate I got about 15 coats out of that.
> 
> ...


Don't mean to Hijack the posting. But hold back on your next purchase and have a look at FK1000. By the looks of things very similar in applying and removal but with better durability than 845.

Back to the OP.

Soz Wrx man.:thumb:


----------



## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Yarp one panel at a time with that stuff. Just like I do with my Colly 885. I was applying the wax and after a couple of panels the big lettering on the can that said "REMOVE BEFORE DRYING" (or something to that effect) caught my eye. I removed the wax from previous 2 panels immediately and even that proved to be a chore after such a short time. I also think the weather has a lot to do with it (lots of humidity, cold).


----------



## Fat Audi 80 (Nov 8, 2006)

I also use a "damp" applicator sponge. This ensures you are only using a micro thin layer. I would probably only "dip" the applicator in the wax on every other panel, maybe only three of four times for the whole car. 

You don't need much, and it it is hard work you have probably applied way too much.

Hope that helps...

Cheers,

Steve


----------



## wrx man (Apr 18, 2008)

^^^

I used a red/white applicator which is sponge and this as spritzed with QD.

I probably only went into the pot 5 times for the whole car so i doubt it was that mate but maybe as already stated, the temp might have something to do with it...


----------



## charlie_51 (Sep 19, 2008)

Too Much Wax Was Used.


----------



## gug54321 (Apr 30, 2008)

i find if you mist the panel first with water you can get it ultra thin, which is soo thin you can do the whole car and it comes off easy as pie


----------



## akimel (Oct 25, 2008)

I do not see any reason to spritz one's pad with water when applying 845. Because of its oily nature, it's easy enough to apply thinly.


----------



## parish (Jun 29, 2006)

akimel said:


> I do not see any reason to spritz one's pad with water when applying 845. Because of its oily nature, it's easy enough to apply thinly.


I agree, but I think they are referring to 476s which is what the OP is using.


----------



## Keefe (Jun 30, 2008)

caledonia said:


> Exactly that above.
> I normally do 2 panels then return to the first one do the swipe test If it come clean away then buff, if not leave till I do another panel. Then continue as before till the car is complete. I only use the tin as a guide not as fact. Try and let the wax tell you when its ready. But the swipe test regardless of what type of wax you use. This way I takes all weather and climatic conditions into play.:thumb:
> 
> QD will help to remove the colly.
> ...


I got bought both #476 and #915. I couldn't decide. Since the prices are reasonable and they are such prized products, I thought it will be a good investment.

I always used a damp MF to buff off my QD/SRP/P21S or equivalent. And I intend to do the same for Collinite. Do you think it's okay?


----------



## akimel (Oct 25, 2008)

parish said:


> I agree, but I think they are referring to 476s which is what the OP is using.


Thanks. My fault. I misread the comments.


----------



## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

I am always spraying a fine mist over the cured wax, and then buff it off.


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Keefe said:


> I got bought both #476 and #915. I couldn't decide. Since the prices are reasonable and they are such prized products, I thought it will be a good investment.
> 
> I always used a damp MF to buff off my QD/SRP/P21S or equivalent. And I intend to do the same for Collinite. Do you think it's okay?


If you apply your Colly nice and thinly, and don't let it dry to long. There should be no need to dampen anything. I personally prefer a bit of drag when removing waxes. Moist remove seems to hinder this. There is nothing wrong with spraying the panel with QD after the buffing process, helps finish it off.

But as I have said before. work in a system. Either one panel at a time or as I do 2 panels then check the first. With the swipe test, leave if not cured or buff if done. Then move onto the next panel. As for large areas Bonnets and roof. Either divide into 2 or 4 and same process.

Follow the instruction on the tin, but remember they are only a guide. Lets the wax tell you when its ready to be removed not your watch.

Also leave at least 24Hrs between layers, for the wax to fully cure.

Gordon.


----------



## wrx man (Apr 18, 2008)

charlie_51 said:


> Too Much Wax Was Used.


No it wasn't

If you had read my posts i explained that i didn't use too much wax.

I aint that stupid mate !


----------



## badly_dubbed (Dec 11, 2008)

could it be humidity or something like that?

i never seem to have a problem with colly


----------



## spitfire (Feb 10, 2007)

The fact that it sets as hard as rock is probably why it has such great durability. It's almost better to remove just as it's flashed rather than properly cured. As above, do a couple of panels then buff:thumb:


----------



## wrx man (Apr 18, 2008)

I think that i left it more than 15 mins

I shall do a panel at a time me thinks :thumb:


----------



## MCZ2047 (Oct 10, 2007)

I gave my wifes car 2 layers of colly 476 yesterday. I applied it to the whole car and allowed it to cure for around an hour before buffing off. To be honest i found it alot easier to buff off yesterday than when i applied it to my Black GTI back in September.The only thing i can put this down to is the ambient temperature. Yesterday in the garage it was about 10-12 degrees but in september it was near 20degress. If thats any help


----------



## russell hayward (Apr 13, 2006)

Applied some 476s to my car yesterday. Went round whole car with it.

By the time I got round to the beginning again it was hard to remove. Used some QD to help. 

Applied another coat today. Did one panel at a time and removed straight away. Much easier. 

And before anyone asks I didn't put it on too thick !


----------



## col_edinburgh (Nov 2, 2008)

i've used 476 a couple of times now, never had any trouble taking it off. I do the whole car and leave it for 30 mins and just buff off with a dry mf cloth. No QD. After reading comments on this board I was expecting it to be a lot harder than it was.


----------



## MrDUB (Nov 17, 2008)

I've been using 476's myself,

*As soon as its dry buff off, there is not 'exact' time to leave it, it all depends on how thick you apply the layer, if it too cold or too hot. 2 panels at a time is about right.*

Keep the tin in the house until you need it, keeping it in you garage or boot will just make it turn rock solid, at room temp the wax is very easy to apply.

*I found that using a slight damp MF or pad to apply its makes it that bit easier, however, once the wax is a room temp and not too hard it will apply easily anyway.*

Dont rub it too hard when applying it, simply wipe it on lenght ways *not* in a circular motion, no need for hard rubbing..

*Once its buffed off, go over the whole car again with fresh MF's as you are guaranteed to miss a few spots with collinite as its sometimes hard to see it giving its color, check the car by looking at it from different angles until you see no spots.*

I have now applied 3 coats in 3 weeks, i broght the car on sunday to a car wash and sprayed it down with suds and left for a few mins they rinsed off, the water just fell off and the car looks just as it did when i waxed it last week.

476's is durable stuff.

*Might try it it on my timberlands!! * :lol:


----------



## Brazo (Oct 27, 2005)

This is a product that i must admit has never troubled me, just apply ultra thin layers and wipe off shortly afterwards.

After mastering megs #16 anything else is a cince!


----------



## Alex_225 (Feb 7, 2008)

I'm actually still trying to perfect my application and buffing with Collinite.

Applied it to the missus car a few weeks back and struggled to buff it off as I'd left it on too long. Quick detailer definitely helps that though so if you get stuck give it a spray and buff away.

I applied a layer of 476 to the Lupo on Saturday and took a different approach. For example I applied the wax to the roof, started one side and worked my way down one side, then back up the other side of the roof. 
Literally gave it a minute once I'd completed the roof and buffed off in the same order. Was far easier removing the wax and I did that with each part. Applied to one door, then the next, by the time I'd finished the 2nd door I went back and buffed the first.

Gave it a quick wash today and the beading was superb and you could still feel the gloss in the finish when washing.


----------



## Lloyd71 (Aug 21, 2008)

Would it be advisable to buff it off with a machine if it can end up being difficult?


----------



## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

I always use a machine to buff off wax, perhaps it's the lazy in me. I just use an old buffer I got from Halfords years ago , no real speed to it it's just a slow orbital polisher, I have with a a few MF towels on it and it certainly helps with the buffing.

I will then buff by hand any bits left.


----------



## PootleFlump (Jan 1, 2006)

I just bought the father-in-law some Collinite fibreglass boat cleaner and the fibreglass boat wax. They're actually the same products and the wax is 845 insulator wax. #845 is quite thick, much thicker than some liquid products but not as thick as a paste, sort of half way house a bit like mayonaise. Looking forward to seeing the results and how it looks after a season in the water and all that salt. The boats about 30 foot I think so could be an interesting write up on here. I also bought some liquid fleetwax which is the same as #SS126 which I've been unable to find much about. Not expecting much from it to be honest, it's an AIO product so will give it a little go too.


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

wrx man said:


> No it wasn't
> 
> If you had read my posts i explained that i didn't use too much wax.
> 
> I aint that stupid mate !


I had the same issues and EVERYONE told me I used too much wax! Well I know how to get a thin layer of wax on by now... :wall:

I honestly think its something to do with ambient conditions, like the cold or humidity etc that can create these issues. Enough people have since said they had the exact same issue as us, for me to know it wasnt me being an ar5e that was the problem 

BTW - put it on thinner next time :lol:


----------



## SiGainey (Jan 29, 2006)

Bigpikle said:


> I had all sorts of issues using this in the cold last year - sold it as a result...
> 
> look out for wax holograms in the next few days when you see the car in the light again. Thats what really turned me off this product.


:devil::devil::devil::devil: wax holograms. I get the same which really spoils the effect on a swirl free bonnet - even QD buffing it off doesn't get rid of them, it just shifts them a bit.

Once my FK1000p arrives and proves itself, I'm going to flog all the LSP's I have (bar the 1000p obviously )


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

SiGainey said:


> :devil::devil::devil::devil: wax holograms. I get the same which really spoils the effect on a swirl free bonnet - even QD buffing it off doesn't get rid of them, it just shifts them a bit.
> 
> Once my FK1000p arrives and proves itself, I'm going to flog all the LSP's I have (bar the 1000p obviously )


if you have the same issues with FK1000 I will buy it off you - it honestly is 10x easier to do than 476. Leave 20+ mins and it comes off a dream 

not sure I'd sell ALL my others, but it makes a great winter LSP IMHO :lol:


----------



## wrx man (Apr 18, 2008)

Bigpikle said:


> I had the same issues and EVERYONE told me I used too much wax! Well I know how to get a thin layer of wax on by now... :wall:
> 
> I honestly think its something to do with ambient conditions, like the cold or humidity etc that can create these issues. Enough people have since said they had the exact same issue as us, for me to know it wasnt me being an ar5e that was the problem
> *
> BTW - put it on thinner next time* :lol:


:lol:


----------



## karl_liverpool (Sep 25, 2008)

my routine is normally start on half of bonnet work round whole car. once reached the end. swap to buff cloth and swipe test. then start buffing where i started.
takes around 20 mins to apply the wax so its just about readdy for removal


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

MCZ2047 said:


> I gave my wifes car 2 layers of colly 476 yesterday. I applied it to the whole car and allowed it to cure for around an hour before buffing off. To be honest i found it alot easier to buff off yesterday than when i applied it to my Black GTI back in September.The only thing i can put this down to is the ambient temperature. Yesterday in the garage it was about 10-12 degrees but in september it was near 20degress. If thats any help


You might have issues as detailed below. You should leave at least 24hrs between coats if its 476 or 915. The solvents and the oils have not drayed property if not left for at least 24hrs.



SiGainey said:


> :devil::devil::devil::devil: wax holograms. I get the same which really spoils the effect on a swirl free bonnet - even QD buffing it off doesn't get rid of them, it just shifts them a bit.
> 
> Once my FK1000p arrives and proves itself, I'm going to flog all the LSP's I have (bar the 1000p obviously )


Don't think you will have that trouble for what I have read about KP1000.

Normally if you are getting holograms from Colly then its the lower layer that is sweating or leaching as it has not cured properly. I have seen this a few time. What you are saying is a classic case of this.

You use QD to remove this but it just comes back. It will continue to do so. Until the lower layer as released all its oils and chemicals. Wiping only removes it from the surface. What people normally fine is the car is spotless then one day either with the sun or in a warmer location it shows once more. Small patch's start to reappear on the surface again. Its a nightmare on black cars, believe me on this one.

Dampness can come into play with colly for some reason. I am not a chemist so cant comment on the reason for this. Temperature also especially 5C or below


----------



## SiGainey (Jan 29, 2006)

caledonia said:


> You use QD to remove this but it just comes back. It will continue to do so. Until the lower layer as released all its oils and chemicals. Wiping only removes it from the surface. What people normally fine is the car is spotless then one day either with the sun or in a warmer location it shows once more. Small patch's start to reappear on the surface again. Its a nightmare on black cars, believe me on this one.


Aha! Thanks :thumb:

Yeah, both cars are a metallic navy blue so I'm there with you on that, although it was also a problem on a dragon green Golf..... Fingers crossed FK1000p is better


----------



## SiGainey (Jan 29, 2006)

Bigpikle said:


> if you have the same issues with FK1000 I will buy it off you - it honestly is 10x easier to do than 476. Leave 20+ mins and it comes off a dream
> 
> not sure I'd sell ALL my others, but it makes a great winter LSP IMHO :lol:


Wow! So so so very easy to apply and remove. All others are being advertised now!!!


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I'm going to sell my Colli and possibly a few others if it really is this good!

Can't wait until tomorrow!!


----------



## nismohks (Nov 9, 2008)

I have applied collinite too thick before and didnt have any problems buffing it off after a few minutes. I think the problem is that you waited too long to buff it off.
I found some lines of wax in the door shuts today from a few months ago and they took quite an effort to buff off. Glad it wasnt a whole panel.


----------

