# Tyres Perishing? Detailing related?



## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

As per the attached picture (at bottom of thread)... I've started to notice a few small cracks on my tyres - on the edges of the sidewalls and on the treads and between - and was after a 2nd opinion on whether they're starting to perish prematurely?

Secondary to that, I've never had this happen before (in my 8 years of driving) as I've always worn tyres out or had a puncture before they started to look a bit "old", therefore I wondered if any of my new found enthusiasm for detailing (thus chemicals) over the last 5 months might have lead to them drying out a bit faster? 

That said, they're the OEM tyres on a new-ish car and I've never had this particlar tyre or any others on the car, so any comparisons might be pointless of that nature might be pointless.

Anyway, I went and had a look at them this lunchtime as I'm fairly sure I need to get my fronts changed soon for tread reasons and saw the following...

Tyres are bridgestone RE050A's in 205/40/R17's, original fitment on a Ford Fiesta Zetec S and have done 15500 miles since new in July 2010. I think the date code on the tyres is (from memory) 48-09... meaning they are produced in December 2009, so would've only sat until May 2010 when the car was built. Rears aren't as bad.

Things used over the last 5 months on my wheels include:

Bilberry (1:5 max)
Orange prewash (1:3 max)
APC (tescos/daisy 1:4 max)
Zaino Z-16 - try to put this on regularly for protection purposes.

And (All neat):
VP tar and glue remover (once)
Tardis (once)
Iron X (once)
Wolfs brake duster (once)

Had it valeted a few times (before seeing the light), god knows what he used. They're also subject to pressure washing, although not heavy duty amounts.

Any thoughts appreciated. I'm guessing if they're going off I'd better get them changed sooner rather than later.

P.s. Forgive the dirt, had to park in a field on Friday which was like the saraha, between that and the rain, we're running some grime this week.


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## declanswan (Feb 27, 2008)

Looks like your tracking could be out, but im no expert, im sure someone will be along soon enough to let you know.


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## ant_s (Jan 29, 2009)

Mine are like that but i've put it down to giving them some abuse through some enthusiastic driving (noticed after my trackdays), but i've noticed my door seals are looking very dry and thought that may be from APC? So now i'm going to get some of that seal protectant thingy


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

id say thats nothing to worry about , just general wear

its cracks you need to worry about


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## Pezza4u (Jun 7, 2007)

I'm assuming you run them at the correct pressure, never been run under/over inflated?

They look like my rear Toyo's though, which I think are now 4 years old and at the end of their life. It's probably a trait of the tyre IMO, being Bridgestone they're probably a soft compound and I very much doubt chemicals are causing it.


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## Leemack (Mar 6, 2009)

ant_s said:


> Mine are like that but i've put it down to giving them some abuse through some enthusiastic driving (noticed after my trackdays), but i've noticed my door seals are looking very dry and thought that may be from APC? So now i'm going to get some of *that seal protectant thingy*


gummi Pflege?


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

declanswan said:


> Looks like your tracking could be out, but im no expert, im sure someone will be along soon enough to let you know.


I know what you mean - I've seen that sort of feathering on the contact patches of tread blocks before. Fords always turn over the inside edge a bit (not shown), and this ones no exception (had a fiesta previously which did that too, but more extreme).

These definitely seem more like tiny cracks though.



ant_s said:


> but i've noticed my door seals are looking very dry and thought that may be from APC? So now i'm going to get some of that seal protectant thingy


I know what you mean with that! I've bought some 303 to go with my Z16, so will be trying to get on top of this sort of thing.



Pezza4u said:


> I'm assuming you run them at the correct pressure, never been run under/over inflated?
> 
> They look like my rear Toyo's though, which I think are now 4 years old and at the end of their life. It's probably a trait of the tyre IMO, being Bridgestone they're probably a soft compound and I very much doubt chemicals are causing it.


Probably keep them 1-2 PSI over, 31-33 (fairly religiously), as I find it helps prevent the outside edges wearing too much when cornering more "spiritedly"



steveo3002 said:


> id say thats nothing to worry about , just general wear
> 
> its cracks you need to worry about





-Kev- said:


> look like mine Phil, nothing to worry about I'd say - my tracking was sorted a few months back at it's first service as it wondered at bit on the road, was out a bit but now spot on. down to some enthusiastic cornering too


Hope so Steveo and Kev, it's certainly firmer than my last ride, so might allow a bit more pressure on the tyres. Definitely seem a bit dry though.

Maybe I'll have to bring the Michelin PS3 purchase forward a little... they weren't as happy in this morning rain running 3-4mm as they were with more tread... definitely a tyre where performance has dropped off steeply with wear.


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

^^^^ works a treat on doorseals ant 
look like mine Phil, nothing to worry about I'd say - my tracking was sorted a few months back at it's first service as it wondered at bit on the road, was out a bit but now spot on. down to some enthusiastic cornering too


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

What I was thinking though... If anyone thinks it might be chemicals or has experience of accidentally drying out their tyres/rubbers, I'd be keen to hear about prevention to avoid it in future. I guess it'd just be like moisturing after washing  :lol: 

:thumb:


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## ant_s (Jan 29, 2009)

Old Skool said:


> gummi Pflege?


Tar very much, that's the one, now which seller sells it? lol Can't remember where i've saw it before.



-Kev- said:


> ^^^^ works a treat on doorseals ant  . down to some enthusiastic cornering too


Thanks kev, hoping it will stop mine looking dry, and lol enthusiastic cornering and tyre screatching lol


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## Chufster (Nov 21, 2010)

I think that if using degreasers when cleaning wheels and tyres, you would be more likely to dry out the sidewalls rather than the tread.

On an old car of mine, the rear tyres lasted nearly 10 years. By the end the sidewalls were looking crazed and perished and they had developed slow puntures.

Your pics just look like tread wear rather than any cleaning related issues.


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## Chufster (Nov 21, 2010)

ant_s said:


> Tar very much, that's the one, now which seller sells it? lol Can't remember where i've saw it before.


I bought mine from shinearama. Haven't tried using it yet though.


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## Dixondmn (Oct 12, 2007)

McClane said:


> Probably keep them 1-2 PSI over, 31-33 (fairly religiously), as I find it helps prevent the outside edges wearing too much when cornering more "spiritedly"


Not a good idea.


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## turboyamaha (Nov 18, 2010)

No problems there mate!


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

mate its normal, check your tracking, and donlt use a strong tyre dressing on the inside wall on the wall, wheels just need a wash with wash and wax, and seal them.

Could be your corning as well.

Its old skool but it works.


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## spyder (Jun 15, 2010)

I have the same tyres on my car with the same 'cracks' . i'd say these are normal for this tyre.


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

McClane said:


> What I was thinking though... If anyone thinks it might be chemicals or has experience of accidentally drying out their tyres/rubbers, I'd be keen to hear about prevention to avoid it in future. I guess it'd just be like moisturing after washing  :lol:
> 
> :thumb:


*Antiozonant* 

_[: a chemical compound that prevents or slows down the degradation of material caused by ozone gas in the air (ozone cracking)] _[1]

Also known as anti-ozonant, they are used as additives to plastics and rubber, especially in tyre manufacturing.

If you were to see rubber going into a tyre factory, it would be grey, not black. Untreated tyres would have a very short life if they weren't protected against the elements and the environment, so amongst other ingredients, Carbon Black is added during the manufacturing process.

a)	Carbon Black- protects the tyre against ultra violet radiation (UVR) by absorbing them and converting them into heat so it can be diffused safely. But the Carbon Black has a limited life-span because, as it does its job, it diminishes itself. As carbon black loses the ability to do its job, it turns gray. This is why rubber greys as it ages. When it is no longer there to protect the tyre, the original grey rubber colour starts to reappear. 

b)	Antiozonants- along with carbon black, the tyre manufacturer mixes in antiozonant and other protective ingredients to repel ozone from the rubber. These waxes and polymers migrate through the tyre at a molecular level to form a barrier against harmful ozone. As the tyres move (with the car being driven) the rubber flexes and heats up, allowing tiny amounts of the wax to surface. When a vehicle is not being driven (i.e. classic show cars, winter storage, etc) then without this action and the rubber can easily dry out and rot.

c)	Blooming - after the antiozonant works its way to the outside of the tyre and is exposed to the ozone in the air, it oxidizes and turns brown. The technical term for this effect is blooming. Many chemical compounds, especially solvents, react vigorously at ambient temperatures as the oxidizing process takes place between water and the tyre polymer-binding agents. Water tends to wash away the natural oils and micro-waxes that help to maintain the tyres flexibility

d)	Solvents - Michelin, Bridgestone, Firestone and most other tyre companies advise against the use of Dimethal solvent tyre dressings (non water- based) because they leach the rubber additives to the tyre surface, which then removes the elasticity from vinyl, rubber and paint; causing them to evaporate out of the substrate and could result in premature drying and cracking, leaving behind a dry inflexible surface.


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## turboyamaha (Nov 18, 2010)

Is megs endurance water based?


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Protection Water- based vs. Solvent-based *

The difference between water and solvent based is in the carrier system used. Solvent based products use a hydrocarbon silicone to suspend the product. When you apply it, the solvent evaporates leaving the dressing's active ingredients (silicone oil) behind; this type of silicone leaves a high gloss shine and will repel water longer but it is non-biodegradable. Most high gloss products are based upon (DMS) solvents. Water-based dressings (usually a milky-white liquid) use a combination of natural oils and polymers to offer a non-greasy, satin finish

*Water- based dressings* 

Pros - fast drying, non greasy, non slick finish, matte sheen
Cons- limited durability when exposed to the elements, potential for streaking in rain

For vehicles fitted with ceramic brakes and / or pads; products that contain DMS solvents are not recommended as it can contaminate the pads and render them ineffective

Silicone_ [: more precisely called polymerized siloxanes or polysiloxanes, silicones are mixed inorganic-organic polymers with the chemical formula [R2SiO] n]_ [1]

Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) belong to a group of polymeric organ silicon compounds, which are commonly referred to as silicones.] CAS number - 63148-62-9 

a)	Water-based silicone dressings - usually a milky-white liquid that don't contain petroleum distillate solvents that can harm rubber and/or vinyl over time; water-based dressings use a combination of natural oils and polymers that coat and bond to offer a non-greasy, satin finish

(Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tyre Gloss or Swisswax Pneu) Some of these products also contain ultra violet radiation (UVR) blocking agents to help keep tyres from cracking, fading and hardening. Most, if not all water-based dressings are biodegradable whereas solvent- based silicone is not.

b)	Solvent-based silicone dressings - usually a clear greasy liquid, Dimethalsiloxane (DMS) (paraffinic hydrocarbons) that contain petroleum solvents as a cleaning agent. These penetrating-type silicone oils form a flexible protective shield that prevents penetration of moisture and dirt. Most silicone dressings, although very durable, leave a never-dry high gloss film, they remove the elasticity from vinyl, rubber and paint; causing them to evaporate out of the substrate, leaving behind a dry inflexible surface.

Most high gloss products are based upon DMS silicone oil, the difference between water and solvent based is in the carrier system used. Solvent based products use a hydrocarbon silicone to suspend the product. When you apply it, the solvent evaporates leaving the dressing's active ingredients (Silicone oil) behind; solvent-based silicone is not environmentally friendly / biodegradable 

Many tyre manufacturers (BF Goodrich, Goodyear, Michelin, Pirelli, etc) have issued technical service bulletins advising against the use of tyre dressings containing Dimethalsiloxane (DMS) a petroleum distillate solvent.

This type of solvent will dissolve away the protective waxes and can actually aggressively compromise the sidewall. In the event of warranty sidewall failure, one of the first things tyre manufacturers look for is evidence of the use of these types of products. When found, this is often the cause for not warranting the tyre's sidewall failure.

The big three auto companies (Ford, General Motors and Chrysler) have issued advisories or technical bulletins to their dealers to not use heavy petroleum distillate-dimethal silicone oil dressings for another reason; paint and wheel surface staining.

Auto companies have found that it is next to impossible to remove the stains, In some cases, even repainting the part doesn't' t work as the stain comes back through the new paint, requiring the part to be replaced. Most factory styled wheels are coated with a clear coat type of coating. Some are more porous than others and use of an incorrect dressing may stain them the same as the body parts.


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## Chris. (Jun 7, 2010)

Looks like my pzeros on the rear, they are a bit worse for wear.

I think the only thing i can put that down to is excessive heat and abuse on worn tyres.

The fronts are new on mine but went on the same trackday and the rears seriously suffered in comparison!


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

dixon75 said:


> Not a good idea.


why's that?.. I'd bet a good 90% of cars on the road never have their tyre pressures checked let alone only ran a few psi over the reccomended setting. then again, are any of these gauges (digital or otherwise) really that accurate?...


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

dixon75 said:


> Not a good idea.


Not to gang up on you Dixon by any means...but what is your take on that if elaborating? Increased potential for wheel damage, reduced handling?

From my POV, I've always experimented when choosing tyre brands and psi's, as I'm probably more anal about that than car cleaning, as it's a safety/handling matter.

Over the two Fiesta's I've owned, I've found a slight increase (dependent on the tyre) gives better mpg, sharper handling and a more sorted ride, and fairly balanced tyre wear (as I stay it's to prevent the edges wearing faster if you use them with a little gusto) and not too hard as to be uncomforable/ wheel bashing... Doesn't seem too bad an idea to me.

I'd think some air gauges in petrol stations could be out by that amount, and it's better still than people who dont check and have 22 in one, 19 in another etc.

Obviously, I'd recommend people do the right thing for them and their car/driving style... and to within safety limits. I know that both of those are below what the rears should have in them if the car is fully loaded. It also depends on the particular tyre, it's profile, and how hard the side walls are... so I sort of adjust to suit, the same with my MTB, but less extreme.

I've read of some Scoob owners and specialist garages frequently putting about 5 extra PSI in over manufacturer spec.


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

Chufster said:


> I think that if using degreasers when cleaning wheels and tyres, you would be more likely to dry out the sidewalls rather than the tread.
> 
> On an old car of mine, the rear tyres lasted nearly 10 years. By the end the sidewalls were looking crazed and perished and they had developed slow puntures.
> 
> Your pics just look like tread wear rather than any cleaning related issues.


Yeah, there are slight cracks on the side wall corners too (although not the sidewall itself). The reason I wondered if it was perishing rather than wear, is that if you look, the cracks go between the thread blocks, it doesn't appear to just be feathering, or dragged wear on the blocks.

Will see if I can get a better pic tonight.

:thumb:

As TOGWT's post eludes too, I wonder if my more vigourous cleaning has stripped some of these things. I guess the key would be to not let them dry too much and keep Z16 on to dress/protect.


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## Dixondmn (Oct 12, 2007)

McClane said:


> Better mpg, sharper handling, and fairly balanced tyre wear (as I stay it's to prevent the edges wearing faster if you use them with a little gusto) and not too hard as to be uncomforable/ wheel bashing... Doesn't seem too bad an idea to me.
> 
> I'd think some air gauges in petrol stations could be out by that amount, and still better than people who dont check and gave 22 in one, 19 in another etc


Depends what you use to check your pressures. I use an independent guage I keep in the car.

running at an increased pressure when cold (assuming you inflate your tyres when cold) will cause you to run at even greater pressure when your tyres have warmed up. 
You'll also blow through the centre of the tyre quicker than the edges, as well as experience compromised braking under load.

But what do the manufacturers or 'experts' know...

Over inflated tyres can cause:

* Poor vehicle handling.
* Reduced stability in braking and cornering.
* Reduced grip.
* Greater risk of impact tyre damage.
* Excessive wear of the tyre's middle tread.

Not having a pop, I just fail to see why you wouldn't just set the pressure at the manufacuters spec. Its your car after all but its everyone else who you 'might' be endangering.


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

dixon75 said:


> Depends what you use to check your pressures. I use an independent guage I keep in the car.
> 
> running at an increased pressure when cold (assuming you inflate your tyres when cold) will cause you to run at even greater pressure when your tyres have warmed up.
> You'll also blow through the centre of the tyre quicker than the edges, as well as experience compromised braking under load.
> ...


Fair do's. Yes, I have my own Michelin tyre inflator (the one that Autoexpress gave a good accuracy rating to), and do them when cold. It also even makes a difference on mine if one side of the car's been in the sun for the morning, as I found out once :wall:

My reason is purely because I think the manufacturer figures are a compromise of a few factors; comfort, handling, wheel protection, etc.

I'd rather trade off a little of the comfort "squash" factor for better cornering and composure under load (including braking). I certainly agree you wouldn't want to totally over inflate them, but conversely, I don't like driving around on blanmange (sp). And mine certainly still sag a bit at the front.

I can't see the pic at the moment, but following the link to car bibles... yeah, I was finding my tyres wore like "underinflated" ones at the "recommended" pressures, hence adjusting :thumb:


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## Dixondmn (Oct 12, 2007)

fair enough.


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## Chufster (Nov 21, 2010)

McClane said:


> Fair do's. Yes, I have my own Michelin tyre inflator (the one that Autoexpress gave a good accuracy rating to), and do them when cold. It also even makes a difference on mine if one side of the car's been in the sun for the morning, as I found out once :wall:
> 
> My reason is purely because I think the manufacturer figures are a compromise of a few factors; comfort, handling, wheel protection, etc.
> 
> ...


Most car manufacturers also recommend putting a few extra psi in the rear tyres when fully loaded. I bet most people don't bother.

Some tyres need higher pressure too. I had Falken 452s on my last car and they recomended 37 psi which is more than the 32psi that Alfa recomended for the standard pirellis. I was dubious at first, but they had soft tyre walls, and rolled a bit when inflated too low. I put them up to 37psi and it was much more stable under cornering.


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## turboyamaha (Nov 18, 2010)

A couple psi over will make no difference to safety of tyre. Gauges are not accurate! manufacurers will have some leeway also Better to be slightly over then slightly under!! Alot of alloys let a little air out anyway over time!!


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## Dixondmn (Oct 12, 2007)

Chufster said:


> Some tyres need higher pressure too. I had Falken 452s on my last car and they recomended 37 psi which is more than the 32psi that Alfa recomended for the standard pirellis. I was dubious at first, but they had soft tyre walls, and rolled a bit when inflated too low. I put them up to 37psi and it was much more stable under cornering.


What do you mean, 'they' recomended 37 psi? are you talking about the writing on the side of the tyre?


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## Dixondmn (Oct 12, 2007)

turboyamaha said:


> A couple psi over will make no difference to safety of tyre. Gauges are not accurate! manufacurers will have some leeway also Better to be slightly over then slightly under!! Alot of alloys let a little air out anyway over time!!


Why is it better to be over inflated than under inflated? - surely a bigger foot print means bigger braking surface?

Anyway if you check your tyres weekly, either during your wash routine or when you fill up with petrol or check your oil/other weekly checks this shouldn't be a problem.

I dont agree with over inflation, but then i also firmly believe you should have your newest/best tyres on the rear of the car, which a lot of others seem to disagree with..


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## andy-d (Sep 30, 2009)

seen very similar marks to your on bike tyres after "fun times"
its one place having "orange peel" type surface isnt a bad thing shows you've given the tyres some work to do.

1-2 psi over,, nothing to worry about. worrying about 1-2 psi,,, aint worth it. 10+ psi heck yes,, or "lower"but 1-2 psi high...nowt to fuss over.


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

dixon75 said:


> Why is it better to be over inflated than under inflated? - surely a bigger foot print means bigger braking surface?
> 
> Anyway if you check your tyres weekly, either during your wash routine or when you fill up with petrol or check your oil/other weekly checks this shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> I dont agree with over inflation, but then i also firmly believe you should have your newest/best tyres on the rear of the car, which a lot of others seem to disagree with..


No I'm pretty much with you mate, especially with new ones on the rear, unless the existing rears are near new, in which case if for an FF car, the new fronts will soon overtake and have less tread than the rears, and will anyway.

I go about 7% over for my own reasons, but yeah, you wouldn't want to go with the sidewalls. :doublesho

As much as severe overinflation is stupid, under inflation can generally cause overheating, uneven wear, and lower MPG, as well as being less stable under excertion

Seriously, that Carbibles thread that original pic was from... it talks about "customising" them, and pretty much advocates experimenting... I think that's where I got my Subaru story from, although other forums corroborate that:

Interesting read... http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg3.html

:thumb:


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## johnnyguitar (Mar 24, 2010)

The rear tyres on my wife's MKV Golf have started to perish, actually within the last 12 months, and we think they are the original tyres - a pair of Continental Eco Contact, 195/65/15 and something ridiculous like T rated. They would be getting on for four year old now but have only worn down to just over 4mm despite the car covering nearly 65k miles so far. I don't really think it's got anything to do with the products I've used either.


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## turboyamaha (Nov 18, 2010)

Definately always put the new boots on rear!!


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## Guest (Jun 7, 2011)

Certainly the tar type products will be inclined to slowly work away at your rubber, there is not _that_ much difference between tar and rubber.

Take the following with a pinch of salt but you should also remember that some tyre dressings contain solvents very similar to those found in your tar/oil products. Whilst dressings do make the rubber look better, over-use will have the potential to dry-out the rubber.

To move away from my professional side...

Over inflation just means less rubber in contact with the ground. It will mean a feeling of 'lightness' but it means you have less grip (almost by definition). The effect is analogous to fitting a narrower wheel/tyre.

Best wheels on the rear... well that is going to depend what the rear wheels are doing! If they are the driving wheels then that seems fair. However, if you are front wheel drive then your rears are doing nothing more that following. When your fronts are doing both driving and steering, and your rears are just following... I don't see the argument for having the best tyres at the back.


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## Dixondmn (Oct 12, 2007)

BL-Sci said:


> I don't see the argument for having the best tyres at the back.


Your tube it, you might be surprised.


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## turboyamaha (Nov 18, 2010)

The arguement has been proved on top gear and 5th gear. Etyres also has some info on their website!


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## owen86 (Jan 2, 2009)

Hey, I have the RE050a's on the back of my civic, been there since new, 4years and 40k miles!! 

They refuse to wear out but have started to perish pretty badly, not so much on the tread but on the side wall, small cracks appearing! 

Just had its mot and got an advisory for them so will need changing soonish, when I get home later I will upload a pic so you can compare how bad yours are to mine.


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## Guest (Jun 8, 2011)

Ah I read it now... but from what I read it is only true at the limit of losing grip. If grip is lost, it is easier to control when it happens at the front than the rear. But I haven't seen any discussion about where the point of losing grip occurs.

Irrelevant of the fine details, we shouldn't really be worrying about this on the roads


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## owen86 (Jan 2, 2009)

Here is a picture of mine which need changing!


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## Carshine (Nov 11, 2009)

My car is RWD and I always put the best/ least worn tyres in front. Try driving in curves with worn front tyres when it rains..


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## PaulTheo (Sep 26, 2010)

If fitting a pair of brand new tyres they need to go on the front as grip will be poor for the first 100 to 200 miles and understeer is easier to deal with than oversteer. This is the same for FWD, RWD or 4WD. Once worn in your choice.


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

owen86 said:


> Here is a picture of mine which need changing!


Cheers mate :thumb: Yeah, the edges are a bit like that, but not so much the blocks, I think they're getting worn away too quick!


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## tfonseca (Jul 31, 2008)

Mine are just like that. The guy from the tire store sad that the cracking has due to the tire dressing that I apply - Z16. Maybe he is right!


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## Chicane (Mar 31, 2011)

just popped out to check mine and think i really ought to change this one:










:doublesho still, don't think it's done too bad considering it's the original tyre from when the old girl rolled off the line in 2001!


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## Guest (Jun 17, 2011)

Of course the choice of fitting location is moot on a good few cars... it is years since I have driven a car which uses the same size front and rear!


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## Chicane (Mar 31, 2011)

tfonseca said:


> Mine are just like that. The guy from the tire store sad that the cracking has due to the tire dressing that I apply - Z16. Maybe he is right!


he's wrong, it's combination of UV damage and road salts. tyre dressings help delay that damage by moisturising the rubber. that's what i was tought anyway!


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## tfonseca (Jul 31, 2008)

Chicane said:


> he's wrong, it's combination of UV damage and road salts. tyre dressings help delay that damage by moisturising the rubber. that's what i was tought anyway!


Road salts is not, in my country there not salt on the roads 
Maybe is just UV, but it is quite strange.


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Tyre Replacement*

Over time, rubber degrades; vehicle manufacturers recommend that tyres be replaced when they are six years old to prevent sudden failure, even if the tyre looks undamaged. After this amount of time, tyres sort of internally dry-rot, which can cause the tread to delaminate, which often leads to fatal accidents? The way to check your tyres date is by looking at the end of your DOT code, it will be either 3 or 4 numbers the code on my tyre was 3705, meaning, that my tyres were made the 37th week of 2005. In tropical climates, tyres degrade (UV radiation) sooner than in temperate climates

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has seen reduced aging of tyres filled with nitrogen. Though the data does support that passenger car tyres could benefit by all the claims made for nitrogen, tyre manufacturers say that they already design tyres to perform well with air inflation. And while nitrogen will do no harm, manufacturers say that they don't see the need to use nitrogen, which generally adds $5 or more per tyre charge.

Tyres are subjected to more abuse than any other component part of the vehicle. Designed to perform under extreme conditions of heat via kinetic energy transfer, high speeds for long periods of time and incredible forces of torque and flexing.

As well as airborne contaminants they also have other formidable adversaries, ultra violet radiation (UVR) ozone, oxygen, petroleum distillates, formaldehyde, asphalt, road dirt and grime, and rain water. Over time, rubber degrades.

*Tyre Inflation Pressure*

Tyre pressure should be checked on a regular basis; don't fill the tire to the maximum pressure rating on the tire sidewall. This figure does not take into account a specific vehicle's needs but rather what the tire is capable of holding under max load. The door placard is the place you want to get your air pressure specs. You can of course adjust this plus or minus a few pounds (3-5 PSI) depending on tire, load and handling. The correct pressure is important both for safety and for a long tyre life. Check tyre pressures (including the spare tyre) monthly, and before any long trip. Tyre pressures should be checked cold (tyres not having run for at least 2 hours, or run for less than 2 miles at low speed).


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## spursfan (Aug 4, 2009)

turboyamaha said:


> Is megs endurance water based?


I would imagine its solvent based rather than water based.
Maybe TOGWT can shed some info on this.
I use FK108 and that is water based.

Kev


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