# RDS Removal via DAS6 Pro



## dcampbell42 (May 4, 2011)

hi i have been trying in the past for 100% correction of both swirls and RDS

i have had great success with the removal of swirls with meguiars DA microfibre system but zero success with the random deep scratches

i have the following in my possession although its not a lot: Menz Power Gloss, Power finish, CG Yellow Green Black pads (had orange but polisher burnt it through) Megs DA compound + pads. I also have the likes of T-Cut scratch remover and G3 compound (dont laugh)

i was thinking would my best bet be to get a 75mm backing plate for my polisher and perhaps some 80mm menzerna cutting pads and go over the RDS bit by bit or is this ridiculous

I have heard a few tips like work at a slower speed i.e. 4 instead of 5-6 which i think doesnt make sense as a higher speed will have higher cutting temps (although who am i to know tbh)

i want to be able to remove and 100% correct the paint and have it nicely refined without the need for a rotary if this is at all possible as i wouldnt have the bottle to use one, even though im quite used to the DA and like using it apart from the sense of failure a times 

might i add the paint in question is metallic Blue German paint (see image below) and is quite hard paint!

any help appreciated guys


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## Herefordquattro (May 31, 2010)

nice ride! Be carefull buddy chasing perfection, it is possible with da and yellow cg pad but without PTG it is still a fine line to walk (managed to strike through on mine)


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

As above, you need a PDG ideally, to assess what you have to play with, and also your removal rates.

Do you have any pics of the RDS's? Where are you based? Perhaps someone local could give you a hand?


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## peanut1 (Dec 29, 2009)

I used to go straight in after spreading at speed 5 to 6 but recently "accidently" did it at 3/4 as was talking to a neighbour and by god the difference!!! Try it and i worked out your burning the compund so quickly so its getting a longer cut time. You can almost hear it cutting, kind of sanding noise and then when its stopped making that noise i turned it up full for 2 passes to make sure all compunds broken down then down to 3 to glaze it off and well impressed. Only taken me a year to get it right!! Also, i now do maybe 3 panels and then wash it out, spin it off with the DA and found the cutting ability is amazing and much much quicker as i can virtually get away with one try per section and that was on VAG paint!


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## dwmc (Jun 6, 2010)

RussZS said:


> As above, you need a PDG ideally, to assess what you have to play with, and also your removal rates.
> 
> Do you have any pics of the RDS's? Where are you based? Perhaps someone local could give you a hand?


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

I agree with all the recomendations for ptg use. I also agree that chasing every last defect is futile. That said if you do want to do it I suggest wet sanding rds then repolishing afterwards. Still suggest ptg use though :thumb:


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## chillly (Jun 25, 2009)

Your car is outstanding Mr Campbell. As for the scratches i would take up Stangalangs offer of wet sanding it. Im sure he will not over charge you and he is a tip top fella with a Flex:thumb:


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## John @ PB (Aug 25, 2010)

Lowering your speed may actually help; working the machine at very high speed will cause the abrasives in the polish to break down too quickly, not giving them a chance to do their work. 

I'd say speed 4-5 with Menzerna Power Gloss on a reasonably stiff pad (such as Lake County Cyan) will sort this. 

I do echo the above comments for a paint gauge; the MF systems are capable of quite a high rate of paint removal so that'd be advisable. 

(Other key things: make sure your pad is clean and dry - don't add additional water or QD. Make sure you work the polish fully in terms of number of passes.)


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Cracking motor, if daily driver the 100% correction is your choice but as a daily it will get marked again and need doing again and as such you will be removing too much to be doing it regular.

You can try localised on the RDS but again your removing more and more.

Now if it was a show car and only does the shows then the 100% is a consideration.

The choice is yours of course but be mindfull.

If your going down this route then a PTG is a must and then unless it costs over 1k you are still guestimating on the amount of lacquer you have.


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## dcampbell42 (May 4, 2011)

thanks for the info 

going by the comments i wouldnt necessarily need 100% correction, but when i remove swirls via the MF system, thats the only thing removed and a lot of RDS remains, has the MF system got the power to cut through Deeper scratches as it seems a very general product i.e. not directed toward soft/medium/hard paints and doesnt state that it needs refining therefore i am a little skeptical on the fnish possible from it

i think i need to look more into my technique perhaps instead of the products themselves


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

Thats a nice vw bora you have there, lots of shine on the paint there.


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## RedUntilDead (Feb 10, 2009)

100% correction on a daily driver, I wouldn`t. Its a nice idea but the clear removed in the process might leave little chance of any future correction.
I have a one yr old bm, corrected as much as I felt I needed, two weeks ago. We have done a few decent road trips and after its latest wash I have noticed some new, light surface scratches:wall: My approach now will be to find a filler heavy polish/glaze to try and hide any marks rather than keep polishing them out.
You should not be scared to go rotary, its far quicker and can do work a da just might not have the omph for. Ask the pro`s, do they use a da for correction?
Have to agree with everyone, a PTG is a must for you 
Just my 2p


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## mk2glenn (Sep 12, 2010)

Offtopic, but do I remember you getting a slagging on RMS for having twinpipes or something?

Nice Bora though, love A5s on them!


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## dcampbell42 (May 4, 2011)

mk2glenn said:


> Offtopic, but do I remember you getting a slagging on RMS for having twinpipes or something?
> 
> Nice Bora though, love A5s on them!


yes lad i got terrible stick on that site  dont bother with it no more really


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

The MF system is not very good at RDS removal IMO, on harder CC's, as the pads are very firm and flat, they are effectively 'levelling' the paint surface, so you'd have to remove as awful lot of paint to get the surrounding CC flat enough to remove the RDS. I have seen a technique where you 'edge' the MF pads, but it was very lengthy and messy.

Foam seems better at 'rounding' RDS's off, presumably as it contours to the level of the paint, unlike the MF system, so is generally better at RDS removal, or ideally, use someone local (like the offer above) to have them removed with a rotary (or wet sanded depending on their depth).

There's no point in reducing the CC for a large part of a panel when you can attack the RDS more effectively using other options.


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## dcampbell42 (May 4, 2011)

RussZS said:


> The MF system is not very good at RDS removal IMO, on harder CC's, as the pads are very firm and flat, they are effectively 'levelling' the paint surface, so you'd have to remove as awful lot of paint to get the surrounding CC flat enough to remove the RDS. I have seen a technique where you 'edge' the MF pads, but it was very lengthy and messy.
> 
> Foam seems better at 'rounding' RDS's off, presumably as it contours to the level of the paint, unlike the MF system, so is generally better at RDS removal, or ideally, use someone local (like the offer above) to have them removed with a rotary (or wet sanded depending on their depth).
> 
> There's no point in reducing the CC for a large part of a panel when you can attack the RDS more effectively using other options.


that was my initial point, should i just go over the car with the MF system and use the 3" foam cutting spot pads?? plus to pay someone locally to go over it with a rotary would be £££s


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## Kitoy22 (Oct 5, 2011)

dcampbell42 said:


> that was my initial point, should i just go over the car with the MF system and use the 3" foam cutting spot pads?? plus to pay someone locally to go over it with a rotary would be £££s


Same as RussZS, i use the edging technique (http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=228461) w/ a 5" MF cutting pad w/ GG at around speeds 5-6. I find it very effective in removing RDS, but as the others would say, for a daily driver its not recommended, better to make it less noticeable. Good Luck! :thumb:


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## CleanYourCar (Jan 23, 2006)

dcampbell42 said:


> thanks for the info
> 
> going by the comments i wouldnt necessarily need 100% correction, but when i remove swirls via the MF system, thats the only thing removed and a lot of RDS remains, has the MF system got the power to cut through Deeper scratches as it seems a very general product i.e. not directed toward soft/medium/hard paints and doesnt state that it needs refining therefore i am a little skeptical on the fnish possible from it
> 
> i think i need to look more into my technique perhaps instead of the products themselves


The Microfiber DA system is fantastic and I personally didn't have any trouble even removing deeper marks with the microfiber system. It constantly amazes me how well it works and the level of correction achieveable.

On RDS you need to give them a bit more time and for that I'd just invest in a set of the smaller microfiber compounding pads. Work the polisher on speed 3 with decent pressure and you should be able to remove them to the same level as a rotary.

I'd echo the above comments though, if you are going after the odd RDS then a paint guage is definitely the way forward as you will be removing 10's of microns of paint at a time in removing them.

It also sounds like you may not be spending enough time on the specific areas, even a rotary to remove them you need to work on the area and not a panel as a whole as the compound only has so much cut before it breaks down so by reducing the work area right down means the compound will work longer in a given area.

Tim


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## dcampbell42 (May 4, 2011)

CleanYourCar said:


> The Microfiber DA system is fantastic and I personally didn't have any trouble even removing deeper marks with the microfiber system. It constantly amazes me how well it works and the level of correction achieveable.
> 
> On RDS you need to give them a bit more time and for that I'd just invest in a set of the smaller microfiber compounding pads. Work the polisher on speed 3 with decent pressure and you should be able to remove them to the same level as a rotary.
> 
> ...


so you wreckon some 3" megs MF spot pads at speed 3 will be better?


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