# New paint scuffs?



## burrows1980

Hi,

So I had my project sprayed last september by a guy who came recommended, but unfortunelty the job was very poor for the money I paid. Not going to go into detail but I decided I wasnt getting him to fix the faults due to breakdown in trust.

Now the paint is black!! so theres a fair few bits that need some attention. Ive never done machine polishing but really want to learn from this forum, best way to practise in my book is on your own car, and watching a lot of YouTube videos. Im looking to buy a Sealey ER1700PD, not heard many bad comments, and not badly priced for occasional use.

So after the car was painted the guy rubbed a few areas down then buffed, but due to the poor light in the shop and it being a black car looked good at the time, until I got it home and saw a lot of scuffed areas:

Top edge of wing


Front edge of roof leading to wind screen




Very light scratch on roof, cant feel with finger nail (i did that :wall: )


Also I somehow did this


So the scuffs as shown are on various parts of the car, but the worst area is the roof.

I was looking into using Farecla G10 to polish it out, would this be the best choice?

And the scratch in the clear coat, again cant feel with finger nail, is this best to rub with say 1500 grit paper then machine polish?

Thanks in advance,

Gaz


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## REVERSiN

I don't know about the polish but depends on your pain to whether it's soft or not. 

From what I see it seems sanding marks on a few spots probably to remove nibs from paint, and why do I say nibs only "orange peel!" the and a much of it. 

The scratch is Easy to fix either try polish for The try if that doesn't work go straight to sanding with 2000 not 1500 the even 2500 would do. It's safer that way.

First picture of the wing its such a bad peel you need to flatten it down. Not easy but can be done so your choice and just be careful mate. 

I can encourage you by saying you are lucky these are the only faults and they can be fixed, but unlike some conditions where you have sanding marks under the paint and that would require A respray ! 

Cheers 👍


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## burrows1980

Yep as I said not the best paint job, and totally gutted by it, I really wish I had done it myself. I paid out a small fortune on the setup, devilbiss GTi pro gun, huge compressor, air drying system, only to find the paint I was trailing was crap! Non ISO paint!! There's a thread on the mig welding forum all about it, I tried everything with the stuff but it would never harden properly. I got really good finish from it, like a mirror straight from the gun grrrrr!

I wasn't willing to use normal 2k paint in a residential area, so reluctantly got it sprayed by someone else.... 

Ive got a spare panel to practise on so might opt trying to colour sand it, hopefully there's enough clear on it!

I don't know the brand of paint he used, is there a way I can find out?

Gaz


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## REVERSiN

Only by asking him mate. I sorry for you. 

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## burrows1980

Thought as much! oh well....

If I was to go down the safer route of a DA, such as DAS 6 Pro with the discount code off here, would that be suitable for removing the light sanding marks? depending on the compound I use.. 

I have noticed a few other small nibs on the paint that also need to be sanded. I have got a Electric Mirka Ceros DA but im guessing the rpm is way to fast variable speed of 4000 - 10000rpm 

Gaz


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## REVERSiN

Nope your da will burn within seconds, a DA will do perfectly. Just refine to 2000 / 2500 for better results. 

Some compounds can remove 1500 too like M105, aa for nibs i would rather use the blade method to scrap them off makes sanding easier and flatter. 

If you go and sand it right away by hand you moght sand more of the surrounding area than the nib itself. Or you can use that pencil rubber tip with a sand paper to be precise! 

Lookup on youtube tbere are many safe ways each to their own mate 😀 good luck 

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## burrows1980

REVERSiN said:


> Nope your da will burn within seconds, a DA will do perfectly. Just refine to 2000 / 2500 for better results.
> 
> Some compounds can remove 1500 too like M105, aa for nibs i would rather use the blade method to scrap them off makes sanding easier and flatter.
> 
> If you go and sand it right away by hand you moght sand more of the surrounding area than the nib itself. Or you can use that pencil rubber tip with a sand paper to be precise!
> 
> Lookup on youtube tbere are many safe ways each to their own mate 😀 good luck
> 
> Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk


Ahh cool, thanks for the advice mate. Would never of thought of scrapping the nibs off, makes sense. Ive got a decent set of H&L Dura Blocks for block sanding and thats the route I was going to go, glad you said about using the blade method.

I'll post back up with the results, going to do a bit of practise work of my 03 plate Transit connect, needs a bit of attention anyway :lol:

Gaz


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## Paul.D

Just a thought would it be worth trying a denim pad and say some 105 and see how that comes out first before wet sanding or would that not be harsh enough?


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## burrows1980

Are these the pads your referring to Paul? Click

I bought a Da from Clas Ohlson today finally back in stock online! Im going to be using Megs 105 & 205, was thinking about CG Hex pads orange and white.

Im a complete beginner with polishing so will try it out on my Transit first :lol:

Im concerned that the orange peel on the wing is so close to the curve of the panel, a denim pad will burn through?

Gaz


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## burrows1980

So after much practice on the tranny decided to give the car a try. For my first go on a black car I think I did quite well! Washed and dried it first, then proceeded to attack it:

Bonnet before (bit of water spotting making it look worse)





After:







There's a few swirls left, I was nervous about applying too much pressure and machining too long.

The whole car is done and allscuffs and scratches are gone, orange peel still an issue, but I'm not confident enough to wet sand the car, tried it on the tranny and came up a treat, but don't fancy doing it on the Nissan.











Need to get more pads, pretty worn out these now. I did the spoiler last and applied medium pressure while using CG orange pad with 105, that came up the best tbh, don't think I applied enough pressure on the rest of the car.

Gaz


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## DLGWRX02

Finish looks great, but call me cynical, If you've ruined the pads in such a short time and your saying you had to apply more pressure on the spoiler, I'm thinking you need a slightly denser cutting pad and a stronger compound to begin with, you really shouldn't need to apply much more pressure than the weight of the machine it self. 

I may be wrong but that's my understanding.


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## burrows1980

Orange pad is fine, the foam on the white pad is tearing slightly. Will pop a picture up later, not sure if I had the machine running to fast as well? Start off on 1 to spread the Polish around area working, increase to 3 - 4 for a few minutes, then to 6 over the area, back down to 3..... that's what I read somewhere, but on Sunday I read not to go any faster than setting 4? 

Minefield of info out there :lol:


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## syedali

im confused because I am trying to learn and have bought products 
all I own is a dewalt rotary machine with pads and g3 compound paste 
I need HELP asap 
is there any detailing courses I can go to 
around Manchester?????


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## burrows1980

syedali said:


> im confused because I am trying to learn and have bought products
> all I own is a dewalt rotary machine with pads and g3 compound paste
> I need HELP asap
> is there any detailing courses I can go to
> around Manchester?????


Welcome to the forum, post in the newbies section and start a thread in relevant section sure your get some helpful advice!!

Gaz


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## chongo

syedali said:


> im confused because I am trying to learn and have bought products
> all I own is a dewalt rotary machine with pads and g3 compound paste
> I need HELP asap
> is there any detailing courses I can go to
> around Manchester?????


You do need help if you have bought a roatary and not sure how to use it, post in the help section or the machine polishing section and am sure we can help:thumb: post some pictures up to show what you want to sort out.


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## REVERSiN

Well done fella, nice outcome the paint looks great. 
You can live with the orange peel it's not that noticeable now so enjoy the car, removing it from a whole car is just too much hard work even by machine (wh8ch I don't recommend) you orange peel would need at least 1500-2000 cause 3000 won't even scratch it. 

I am happy for you f8xing your own paint and yet getting great results too! Keep it that way and enjoy it of course 

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## burrows1980

Hi,

Thread revival!! So I finally got her on the road this year for 5 days, until I had to sorn her again doh! Mot'd tax'd insured, took her on a 110mile mile trip, absolutely trouble free, felt amazing to drive after 6 years off the road.... then I snapped my left achilles tendon! bugger...

Im able to move around now so back into the garage I go. Ive never been happy with the paint job and last week was the fanal straw, I took P1500 to her! And my god she looks better already!

Only done rear driver quarter and driver door, cant spend to long without out resting my foot, taking it slow and steady:









Its only P1500 at the moment, going P2000 and maybe P3000. Got a question in regards to compounding the sanding. Ive already tried this method on my Silver Transit Connect, and the black roof on my Cooper S, and got amazing results using CG orange Hex Logic and white Hex Logic pads with Megs 105 & 205, using a 21mm DA (Clas Ohlsen)

Would it be worth while me using a Megs Microfibre pad DMC5 instead of the orange pad with 105?

Gaz


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## burrows1980

Or is there a better foam pad than CG hex logic for removing P2000/3000 grit marks?


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## burrows1980

I did a test patch on the door today, left DA and right by hand, I'd already done 1500 to remove biggest amount of orange peel, then went over with 2000 and then 3000:





Using M105 and CG orange Hex pad, only spent about 40 seconds on the section an came up resonably well, very glossy but with a bright LED light up close a few 1500 grit marks can be seen, so further refinement needed at 2000 grit stage.

The hand job :lol: again I only did it for around 40 seconds using an old knackered orange hex pad and that also was fairly glossy, edges not so as wasnt looking for the best finish, just curious about how good using it by hand is..

Just not sure if a MF pad will be to harsh for buffing the 3000 grit marks out?

Gaz


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