# Headlight restoration results, by hand, with pictures!



## sportscar

Ok so this is my second post on the forum. First I'd like to say this forum has been such a great tool for learning all there is to know about detailing. I want to thank every single one of you for taking the time to help each other out, and share your wealth of knowledge

So I decided to give headlight restoration a shot this afternoon. Results were fantastic! I decided to start with the least amount of cash spending as possible, so I utilized some old rubbing compound and polishing compounds I had sitting in my garage (I was surprised they weren't completely dried out yet). The products were from Turtle Wax, I just didn't want to spend extra cash for something I already had in my garage. I was going to use the DA polisher, so I taped around the headlights but after first trying it out by hand, I realized it was going to be a piece of cake and ended up not using the DA polisher after all, and finished it entirely by hand...using thee old "wax on, wax off" method . Of course, my headlights were not that bad to begin with, so it was easy to achieve clean results by hand.

The process was simple:

1. Tape around edges
2. Rub the "rubbing compound" using microfiber pad applicator
3. Give it a good "rub/scrub" with the microfiber pad applicator
4. Wiped clean with microfiber towel
5. Rub the "polishing compound" using separate microfiber pad applicator
6. Work the polish into the headlight, constantly rubbing until the polish turned into a haze, then started to disappear
7. Wiped clean with microfiber towel
8. OPTIONAL - Apply wax
8. DONE!

The following are before and after pictures, enjoy!









This was taken in the middle of the polishing process, you can see to the lower right hand side of the headlight it's starting to look clear already









I did not apply wax afterwards. But I'm quite sure if I did, they would probably look slightly better. I know I can probably get them to look clearer, however as stated above, I was looking for the easiest way. Perhaps next time I will pull out the DA polisher, and or maybe even sand them down and purchase that opti lens coating stuff. It states that it will "forever" keep your headlights looking like new (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-lens-headlight-coating.html). Has anyone had any experience with this, results? I'd love to hear about it!

These are the 2 exact products that I used for this process:
http://images.drillspot.com/pimages/24541/2454151_300.jpg
http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/images/turtle-wax-polishing-compound.jpg


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## minnis

Great job! They look loads better.

Make sure you put a wax on soon though, or they'll get faded again quickly.


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## Sicskate

Good job


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## sportscar

Thanks fellow detailers! And yes, I shall put some wax on there today, its safer that I do.


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## Buckweed

Nice work...give yourself a pat on the back :thumb:


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## chongo

Well done mate, now do your engine now,,lol chongo


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## WannaBd

Welcome! Good right up. I used autosol metal polish on a mf cloth on my oxidising vw bora headlights, they where going a greenish colour, yuk. And I was surprised of the improvement, but they still need a sand and da which i'll be doing this week.


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## MAUI

Nice job sportscar. The problem is living in California the UV will yellow the wax in no time. Using Opti Lens will prevent this from happening.


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## s29nta

top effort mate, well done:thumb:


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## svended

Very nice turnaround. Faded headlights always look unsightly.


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## sportscar

Chongo, lmao! That's the next step for me!

Thanks everyone, and I have decided to wax it this afternoon too, so that I can further protect it.


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## dr0800

If I could add a few important points. The most critical part of any headlight procedure is the type of protection one applies after the process.
Modern headlights are manufactured using an extrusion process where UV inhibitors and Blockers are added to the raw pellets during moulding. The finished product is light and impact resistant but highly porous. Its to that external surface the manufacturers add an impermeable hard coat.
Professional restorers will remove the existing hard coat and replace with a 2k or 1k water based UV or oxygen cured product. None of these are readily available to the enthusiast.
The trick is to only remove enough of the hard coat to attain clarity but leaving enough to ensure impermeability.
Wax is a poor sealant unless it is temp resistant. The heat from the bulb and reflector will melt the wax and break it down resulting in a brown mess. Low quality sealants don't fear much better.
The best result is obtained using one of the new permanent/ semi permanent paint coatings otherwise one is looking at polishing resealing every 6 weeks or so. Just my 2 pennarth.


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## ALLR_155528

Good improvement


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## TPursey

I know a few people who will benefit from this, cheers for letting us know what worked for you.


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## Estoril-5

great job especially without a machine!!!


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