# Rust Cure



## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Some of you may have seen over on VP or on Facebook that I have just moved the Cupra to my house and put it in the garage.

The Cupra has been stood for a year, and around Christmas noticed the rear arches had started to rust. Anyway, when loading onto a low loader yesterday, I realised just how bad they were










What would be the best product to remove rust and prevent further rust? IIRC, Bilt Hamber did something for this use didn't they? De-ox or something? Will it work, is it any good? Any other products people recommend?

As you can see, it's just starting to bubble onto the main body of the car now.


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## Method Man (Aug 28, 2009)

Looks to me like it needs rubbing back, treatment with Kurust (or similar), filling (if required), priming (wet sanding) and spraying.

Catch it quick.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Just found out we have Loctite Rust Remedy at work, so will give that a try. It should stop the onset of more localised rust too shouldn't it?


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## Method Man (Aug 28, 2009)

-Mat- said:


> Just found out we have Loctite Rust Remedy at work, so will give that a try. It should stop the onset of more localised rust too shouldn't it?


You'll need to stipple it in to the surface to make sure all the rust gets covered with the treatment.

I'd suggest you get the flaky paint off before applying the treatment otherwise it'll just sit on top of the paint and won't touch the rust underneath.

After treatment, if you're not painting or using the vehicle you might as well apply a light oil to protect the surface and delay further oxidisation. (Don't forget this will need 100% removal if and when you want to paint)

To effect a decent solution though, you'd really need to follow the full rub down, treatment and paint procedure.

Either way, attack it now for peace of mind if nothing else.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Oh I will.... I plan on applying some of this stuff tonight if possible.


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## Arthur Dent (Aug 2, 2011)

Take a look here :- http://www.frost.co.uk/brands/por15.html

I use it on my Mini`s and VW T3 as with anything worthwhile it is all in the prep and graft put into the application of the stuff but good long lasting results can be had.


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

First thing i'd do would be rub it down and get some zinc primer on it lively.
Trouble with rust is it spreads like you know what.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

I know. I'm kicking myself wishing I had applied some around Christmas as it's now bubbling on the main surface of the body.


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## uruk hai (Apr 5, 2009)

I would use Deox Gel followed by the Bilt Hamber primer, when used correctly Deox Gel is a very good product and will chemically remove the rust. It's the best thing I've ever used and I've found that it is safe on a lacquered finish, the hard part will be insuring that you've removed all the rust as it'll probably be around the edge of and inside the wheel arch.

Good luck and I'll be interested in seeing what you achieve ?


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## 182_Blue (Oct 25, 2005)

-Mat- said:


> Just found out we have Loctite Rust Remedy at work, so will give that a try. It should stop the onset of more localised rust too shouldn't it?


In my experience (which was a long time ago) its just not any good and the rust will come back, i am not sure anything will stop it other than removing the affected area and replacing with new metal, perhaps rust remedies have moved on quote a bit since i used them though.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

You are only the second person to say cut it out. TBH, it does make sense, but due to the location, I think it'd be difficult to cut & weld and keep it all looking the same.....

Oh, and for £4, this Loctite stuff is worth a try


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

If you can expose all the metal, the Bilt Hamber deox gel will clean it up without any problems. It is impressive to see all the rust removed and nice clean metal ready for priming


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## andy monty (Dec 29, 2007)

deox gel

and then hydrate or their galv primer or etch give Pete a ring at Bilt hamber...

http://www.bilthamber.com/which-corrosion-treatment


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## Arthur Dent (Aug 2, 2011)

Shaun said:


> In my experience (which was a long time ago) its just not any good and the rust will come back, i am not sure anything will stop it other than removing the affected area and replacing with new metal, perhaps rust remedies have moved on quote a bit since i used them though.


TBH as Shaun says cutting the rust out and replacing the metal is the only long term answer the POR 15 and all other remedies are only a stop gap'

It all depends on how good a welder your are but nothing is impossible with practice.

Take a look here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Never welded in my life but can buy all the gear from work


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## Arthur Dent (Aug 2, 2011)

-Mat- said:


> Never welded in my life but can buy all the gear from work


Buy the gear get a scrap panel or two and practice - practice- practice, you might surprise yourself, TBH replacing rust with pristine steel is as satisfying as achieving a wet look gloss on the paintwork, and it gives you peace of mind that your bodywork is sound and worth looking after it is worth bookmarking the DIY mig welding website :- http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ as everything you need to know can be gleaned from there and they are a friendly bunch on the forum (just like here .

Good luck


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## Joe the Plumber (Sep 4, 2012)

As others have said, Deox-C gel will get rid of every trace of the rust as long as you use it properly and strip the paint and underseal back to clean metal first.

As long as the rust hasn't actually made holes in the bodywork, cutting it out and welding in new metal isn't the only answer (and as a former Opel Manta owner, I can assure you I know exactly what I'm talking about!)


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## Roger440 (May 6, 2013)

Another vote for DeoxC. Tis the buisness!


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## Arthur Dent (Aug 2, 2011)

Joe the Plumber said:


> As others have said, Deox-C gel will get rid of every trace of the rust as long as you use it properly and strip the paint and underseal back to clean metal first.
> 
> As long as the rust hasn't actually made holes in the bodywork, cutting it out and welding in new metal isn't the only answer (and as a former Opel Manta owner, I can assure you I know exactly what I'm talking about!)


I would put money on my classic mini`s rusting quicker than an Opel Manta and in my experience no matter how much rubbing down you do the metal is always sub standard and pitted and as such inferior, however it can be made presentable, but can not IMO be considered a pristine long term rectification whereas welding in fresh metal can, just depends on what you want dare i say a bodge or a long term fix?.

just my opinion not looking to argue:detailer:


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## Joe the Plumber (Sep 4, 2012)

Looks like you've not used Deox-C then Arthur. Please try it, you'll be astonished (and likewise, no argument intended at all). 

Yes, if the metal is pitted, it will still be pitted, but if it's thick enough to retain its strength, it won't be rusty any longer and you'll be able to preserve it using BH's Electrox zinc primer and then fill and paint it, safe in the knowledge that the rust is no longer there.

And I'll bet there's more classic Minis left than Mantas, too, but I've no doubt that Minis could still teach me a thing or two about rust. The only bits on Mantas that don't rust though are the glass and the plastics....


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## Arthur Dent (Aug 2, 2011)

Joe the Plumber said:


> Looks like you've not used Deox-C then Arthur. Please try it, you'll be astonished (and likewise, no argument intended at all).
> 
> Yes, if the metal is pitted, it will still be pitted, but if it's thick enough to retain its strength, it won't be rusty any longer and you'll be able to preserve it using BH's Electrox zinc primer and then fill and paint it, safe in the knowledge that the rust is no longer there.
> 
> And I'll bet there's more classic Minis left than Mantas, too, but I've no doubt that Mini's could still teach me a thing or two about rust. The only bits on Mantas that don't rust though are the glass and the plastics....


:thumb: Thanks I take your point but for me filler on metal is just not right and as I always try to achieve perfection then new metal is the only way for me plus i like welding .

You are probably right about there being more classic mini`s than manta`s not seen one for a few years now shame really was a nice motor, but lacked the simplicity and character of the mini i.m.o


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## cossack (Mar 9, 2008)

Shaun said:


> In my experience (which was a long time ago) its just not any good and the rust will come back, i am not sure anything will stop it other than removing the affected area and replacing with new metal, perhaps rust remedies have moved on quote a bit since i used them though.


Sorry to say bud but totally agree with this, you will only slow it down for a short time with these products, the only real solution is all the rust effected area cut out and new metal welded in.


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## Tiggersmith (Feb 26, 2013)

Google a product called Vactan or go to the VW camper website for reviews, its just about the best rust product on the market.


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## uruk hai (Apr 5, 2009)

cossack said:


> Sorry to say bud but totally agree with this, you will only slow it down for a short time with these products, the only real solution is all the rust effected area cut out and new metal welded in.


My personal experience is that when the afore mentioned products are used correctly, thoroughly and with care they can and do work ! And I say that as someone who over many years used more rust "treatments" and "converters" than I care to remember, so I viewed any and every such product from a very sceptical and almost cynical point of view. My opinion use to be "you can't stop rust you can only slow it down" and like others I thought the only way to deal with rust was complete removal of all of the imediately surrounding metal, it turns out I was wrong !


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

I have ordered some Deox Gel this morning, so will give that a try once it arrives.


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## andy monty (Dec 29, 2007)

One thing with welding is ive seen in the past the welded area going fairly soon after especially on newer cars when the welding burns / welder grinds / flaps any zinc / galv coating off the weld area to allow the weld to take.. Plus the heat takes the goodness out the metal so to speak...... Look at an exhaust 9x out of 10 it goes on the area around the weld


Your really in a no win situation what ever you do but would rather go for none invasive methods first you have nothing to loose...


if its pitted a high build primer should hide it (depending on severity)


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## andy monty (Dec 29, 2007)

Oh and have a good read of this:

http://detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=133377

:thumb:


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