# New Garage



## spitandpolish

Hi,
After nearly 2 years hassle with the planners, I am finally getting to build a new garage block. There are some great garage build threads on this site, that have provided some inspiration, this one has a few differences in construction methods, so I hope its of interest.

The existing car port, barn and stables are going to be recycled elsewhere. the replacement building will be approx. 15m long and 5.5m deep. It will consist of a double garage, single garage/workshop and stable.

The new building will be finished in weathered stone, and reclaimed roof tiles, like an old farm building. inside the floor will be polished and the roof will provide an open span - any partitions between the rooms will be demountable.

Here is what I am starting with:

























First step is disconnecting power and water for demolition. Wish me luck...


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## MDC250

Subscribed...hope it all goes well!


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## ScoobyDoo555

yup subscribed 

Looking forward to this


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## yetizone

The plan for the new garage sounds superb. Another subscriber and looking forward to watching the progress :thumb:


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## brad mole

sounds like good plans, i look forward to seeing some updates, good luck with the build!


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## shudaman

Now this looks interesting!!


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## legs

looks interesting, subscribed.


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## spitandpolish

A quick update, buildings all removed from site, after disconnecting the services. Next job is to remove the existing concrete slab, which cannot be re-used as its the wrong size and shape, and we need to dig out for the footings...

















Hopefully its around 4inches thick, so fairly easy to break up.


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## svended

Very nice, sounds good. Subscribed.


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## joff-turbo-nova

Good luck ! Subscribed as looks very interesting !

Joff


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## Jonny_R

look forward to seeing this take shape! 

Plans sound ace


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## spitandpolish

More progress. All of that old concrete broken up and taken away to be used as hard core for a neighbour's access road.















Before digging, always worth checking the ground with one of these :

http://www.spx.com/en/radiodetection/pd-cat4-Genny4/

In the next photo, the power cable running under the site has been accurately marked in red speedline paint
















Some of the concrete is actually 12" thick and reinforced









Next step - cut some footings, 600 wide, without damaging that cable...!


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## Amrish

Looks very promising


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## M3simon

Subscribed. Love these builds.


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## Farqui

Awesome, will look amazing when it's done. 

Big projects are great to follow (subscribed).


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## paul555sti

looking forward to seeing this progress!


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## zippo

looking forward to reading your posts Subscribed
Daz


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## rhinoman

Looks interesting!


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## spitandpolish

And now for the footings...

The original intent was to go down 1m all round, but the proximity of an oak tree at the north end of the site, meant deeper footings at that end was always going to be likely














You can see from these shots, we ended up going down to 3m at the North end to make building control happy...
























Concrete to follow shortly. After all, when you have spent a lot of time and money digging a hole - best to fill it in again quickly...


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## spitandpolish

And now with the concrete:
























At the deep end clay master boards being installed to the full 3m depth, not easy at 3m depth hence temp props.

















Now for some blockwork


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## spitandpolish

*Blocks!*

Blockwork up to DPC now, on 3 sides, there is a lower level plinth that has been constructed to carry a 150 thick reclaimed stone facing - looks a bit like a step:

































This one shows one of 4 ducts installed for future cables etc,









Now prep for the concrete floor...


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## 20vKarlos

Loving this!


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## bidderman1969

looking great, wish we had some demolition pics though, lol

be interesting to know what the mounting costs are too


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## shudaman

Dam you don't hang about do u!


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## Guest

Some folk like stacking the bricks/blocks....what is that bond called?..


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## spitandpolish

"Special Bond" 
IMHO doubling the flat blocks looks better, where they abut the 140 block on their edge in the side walls. Will be easier to see when the walls go up.


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## spitandpolish

*Floor Slab*

Now for the floor slab preparations for pouring, well compacted stone, blinded with sand:

























This one shows temporary block shuttering under a double door, this will be swapped for stone later, and the floor will run right up to the door.


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## spitandpolish

*Prep for concrete*

Damp proof membrane (two suppliers, hence two different colours, but same product) with reinforcing mesh. This slab is 150 thick, but has the area in front of the main door, which is 5.4m wide, that has been thickened to 300mm. These are features to increase strength, and reduce the chance of cracking.


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## spitandpolish

*Concrete at last...*

OK, now with the slab. Sorry no picture during the pour, but it was a busy time. This slab has also been powerfloated.

The surface appears white, which is just some of the fine particles that were in the surface water as it was floated. this will later brush off. You can see the swirls that the powerfloat makes in the white residue, they should not be visible when brushed clean.

































After 24 hours to cure, there will be some saw cuts added to control the risk of cracking.


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## spitandpolish

*Saw Cuts*

This slab is 5.5m by 16m. Concrete shrinks a bit when it cures so because we are over 6m square, its sure to crack in such a long slab. 
I decided to introduce two saw cuts.

























This might seem a bit odd, but having created two weak points, I hope to induce the inevitable cracks to form at the bottom of these cuts. The cuts will be filled with silicone after the floor is polished. They are also in positions where I may well install internal walls at a later date.


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## shudaman

Makes complete sence!
Expanding joints I no them as, how deep did they cut?


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## Guest

Ive seen expansion/control/contraction.. joints cut into driveways,slabs etc and Ive seen expansion etc joints formed as the slab is poured...but out of interest could you tell me how you cut up to the edge of the slab without cutting into the DPM and blockwork.Taking into account the round blade of the cutter..(Stihl or floor cutter)...you would need to go past the edge of the slab to cut an equal depth through it.Im struggling to see how it doesnt damage the membrane or the cut ends way short of the edge..defeats the object.


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## spitandpolish

shudaman said:


> Makes complete sence!
> Expanding joints I no them as, how deep did they cut?


Hi Shudaman, the cuts should be approx 1/3 of the slab thickness, in this case it was 50mm.


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## spitandpolish

aka.eric said:


> Ive seen expansion/control/contraction.. joints cut into driveways,slabs etc and Ive seen expansion etc joints formed as the slab is poured...but out of interest could you tell me how you cut up to the edge of the slab without cutting into the DPM and blockwork.Taking into account the round blade of the cutter..(Stihl or floor cutter)...you would need to go past the edge of the slab to cut an equal depth through it.Im struggling to see how it doesnt damage the membrane or the cut ends way short of the edge..defeats the object.


Hi Akaeric

You are absolutely right, it is not possible to cut a complete slot, to the full 50mm depth, right up to the DPM. I managed to stop about 5mm short of the DPM. While it would be better to cut right through, stopping short exactly as your sketch has still created a weak point in the concrete, and when the job is done, I would expect to see a crack appear, to link the end of the cut to the wall.

Doing this work now, before walls are built is also important, as if the block walls were in place, the slots would stop 100mm short of the slab edge, as you simply cannot get the saw in. This link shows a core sample, where the controlled cracking has occurred:

http://www.bre.co.uk/page.jsp?id=3404


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## spitandpolish

*Roof Structure*

A bit earlier than planned, but the roof structure has arrived. In effect it is a big kit of parts, the joints are made with oak pegs, so no metal fixings used at all. Looking forward to working out how to assemble it on site!


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## joff-turbo-nova

Looks like a big lego kit !!! Good luck !!

Joff


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## Ben89

This looks to be a real masterpiece, would love to do this one day.


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## spitandpolish

*Blocks at last*

Blockwork under way, at last, with some good progress








































Targeting a weather tight shell before Christmas. Will be very tight. Need to decide which sectional doors to use - am thinking of using Teckentrup, as they will do a 5.5m opening, wood effect finish and pedestrian doors to match. Anyone used them? Or other recommendations?


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## spitandpolish

*More progress...*

Blockwork progressing, although awful weather has slowed this up a lot 
Little slot at the top of the pier is ready to take the timber truss, when the stone is added to face up the block
























Expansion joint in the long rear block wall


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## TheGruffalo1

Amazing.


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## spitandpolish

*Blockwork nearly done, now for the stone!*

The blockwork is now nearly complete, just gable ends to do when the roof structure goes on:































And now to turn the big pile of stone into finished external walls..


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## Dan_Mol

spitandpolish said:


> Need to decide which sectional doors to use - am thinking of using Teckentrup, as they will do a 5.5m opening, wood effect finish and pedestrian doors to match. Anyone used them? Or other recommendations?


Boss has one on his, probably one of top doors you can buy, I almost got one but ended up with a Novoferm as got a good deal (same seller)


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## M3simon

Looking good so far.


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## GTISnoopy

Dont know how much you want to spend on a door but imo you cannot beat a Hormann sectional garage door for quality.


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## Dan_Mol

GTISnoopy said:


> Dont know how much you want to spend on a door but imo you cannot beat a Hormann sectional garage door for quality.


Teckentrup probably step up from a Hormann.


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## 20vKarlos

I'm looking forward to seeing the end result of this build, its in such a lovely setting


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## spitandpolish

*Update for early Nov*

Stonework starting, bit ad hoc due to weather and shorter daylight hours...


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## spitandpolish

*And more stone...*

This is a time consuming process, but we are getting there:









In the shot below, you can see the stone wrapped around the block, where we have a sectional door, and stopping flush, where we have a side hung door.

































Pleased with progress, now, many thanks for the positive comments.


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## spitandpolish

*Garage Doors*

After much research, and thanks for the recommendations for Hormann and Novafirm decided to stick with Teckentrup. The clincher was the really good colour match to the house and the sample panel that they provided, which is very rigid and good quality.









Built in gasketing 40mm thick panel









White stucco internal finish - this one has afew marks, but gives an idea.









Hopefully the sectional doors that will be in before Christmas (This Christmas!) will look a bit like this, ie no visible frame.









PS - I need to think ahead to lighting - any thoughts or ideas gratefully received. I am currently thinking of two rows of fluorescents, with daylight rendering lamps and switched on by photocells...


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## richtea78

Would LED lighting be more economical in the long run?


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## spitandpolish

*Lights*



richtea78 said:


> Would LED lighting be more economical in the long run?


Could be an option, have never used them before. I am looking for it to be fairly bright, say 300 lux plus. Would I end up with a lot more fittings to achieve that?

Perhaps the only way to know for sure, is to buy one fitting and try it?


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## richtea78

Sorry, I'm not an expert it's just I tried switching a few bulbs over to it and it made a big difference to the light and the cost

I guess there would need to be an expert to ask?


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## getthewheelsinl

Stone walling looks excellent- well worth the effort! Good job!


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## stoke st

looking good mate, but how come u not put any insulation between block work and stone


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## spitandpolish

chippy30 said:


> looking good mate, but how come u not put any insulation between block work and stone


Hi, that's a good question. The stone here is just an external finish, required by planning, the blocks are structural, and the stone is built against them. If we had insulation, we should also ideally have a cavity and the stone would have needed to support itself. We could have built a cavity wall - two skins of block with insulation in between and then faced with stone, but as its a garage and an unheated area, this was not necessary for building control. I may add insulation on the inside later, but the budget is only going one way at the moment!


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## organisys

spitandpolish said:


> Could be an option, have never used them before. I am looking for it to be fairly bright, say 300 lux plus. Would I end up with a lot more fittings to achieve that?
> 
> Perhaps the only way to know for sure, is to buy one fitting and try it?


Post the dimensions of the Garage and the mounting height of the lights and I will do a quick calc to give you the number of fluorescent fittings needed to give you your 300+ Lux.


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## organisys

spitandpolish said:


> Could be an option, have never used them before. I am looking for it to be fairly bright, say 300 lux plus. Would I end up with a lot more fittings to achieve that?
> 
> Perhaps the only way to know for sure, is to buy one fitting and try it?


LED luminaire types tend to be directional (spot, flood) etc, fluorescents will suit this large space better, otherwise you are more likely to get bright spots and dark areas.

Yes, you can buy wide angle GU10 etc, but you would need alot and will cost more to run.


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## Bustanut

Just read through from page one, can't believe I missed this thread. This is going to be an awesome space when it's finished. Nice to see some of the details as well, these often get missed. Keep the updates coming, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished project.


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## heppy69

Great project, likewise can't believe I have just found it. One thing for sure you can't hide money..lol


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## Guest

spitandpolish said:


> Hi, that's a good question. The stone here is just an external finish, required by planning, the blocks are structural, and the stone is built against them. If we had insulation, we should also ideally have a cavity and the stone would have needed to support itself. We could have built a cavity wall - two skins of block with insulation in between and then faced with stone, but as its a garage and an unheated area, this was not necessary for building control. I may add insulation on the inside later, but the budget is only going one way at the moment!


Ive often wondered..and asked a few "experts"...as I only build the things.Why has the practice of putting the insulation in the cavity continued for so long?...the cavities have got wider over the years to comply with the changing u values.
The inner skin,usually blockwork absorbs lots of energy/heat before it reflects any back into the room....before it even reaches the insulation
If the insulation was on the "room side" of the blockwork,the energy/heat remains where you want it.It can be done...its just not general building practice
Timberframe structures heat up much quicker because the energy isnt being wasted heating up the walls first.


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## Bill58

This is a great thread. I'm looking forward to the updates.


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## spitandpolish

organisys said:


> Post the dimensions of the Garage and the mounting height of the lights and I will do a quick calc to give you the number of fluorescent fittings needed to give you your 300+ Lux.


Thanks, the garage is 5.5m by 15.5m
height 2.1m clear to underside of truss
A further 1.5m up to the ridge, as its an open span - no flat ceiling.
3 trusses divide the space into 4 bays, each just under 4m long. Switching would be the first double bay, then the other two separately, unless photocells used.


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## organisys

OK, using fittings which are a 1x36 watt Flourescent tube, each around 3400 Lumens,
lightsource at 2m.

Then you could go for a grid of 2x8 fittings along the garage. (16 in total).

This would work out to be four fittings in each bay.

Min Lux 218
Max Lux 301
Av Lux: 278

Thats with 50% reflectance figures for wall/ceiling. If you can paint as much white as possible, obv it will help.


Nice even distribution of light.


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## spitandpolish

organisys said:


> OK, using fittings which are a 1x36 watt Flourescent tube, each around 3400 Lumens,
> lightsource at 2m.
> 
> Then you could go for a grid of 2x8 fittings along the garage. (16 in total).
> 
> This would work out to be four fittings in each bay.
> 
> Min Lux 218
> Max Lux 301
> Av Lux: 278
> 
> Thats with 50% reflectance figures for wall/ceiling. If you can paint as much white as possible, obv it will help.
> 
> Nice even distribution of light.


Thank you - this is really, really helpful.:thumb:
Two rows will work well in a bay by bay layout.


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## organisys

Just as a footnote to this if you like, if you plan on using one of the bays for detailing, I would consider increasing the lighting in that one bay. say to 500/600 Lux.


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## Bero

Looking good, great project.


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## spitandpolish

organisys said:


> Just as a footnote to this if you like, if you plan on using one of the bays for detailing, I would consider increasing the lighting in that one bay. say to 500/600 Lux.


Thanks, do you suggest going from single to twin fluorescents in that bay?


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## organisys

spitandpolish said:


> Thanks, do you suggest going from single to twin fluorescents in that bay?


That would be the simplest and cheapest approach from the point of view of installation.

However if you can be bothered, the optimal solution from the point of the lighting design would be to simply double the number of single tube fittings and half the size of the 'grid'. so 8 fittings with half the spacing between them.

means more cost, time, cabling, etc, etc however.


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## spitandpolish

*Roof Structure*

The roof structure went on today, and took just half a day to achieve. There is no metal in this roof at this stage, not even a single screw, the sections are fixed using carved oak pegs. The main sections are Douglas Fir:


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## spitandpolish

Next step is to cut and nail on the common rafters that the tile battens will fix into.


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## GlynRS2

Coming along nicely.
Very impressive roof structure, I hope it will be on show from below.


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## spitandpolish

*End Nov Update*

Yes, all main timbers will be visible in the final finish.

Progress a bit poor in the last couple of weeks, just the common rafters, fascia board and carcassing for the soffit at the front.


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## spitandpolish

*Ctd...*

























Hopefully in the next 10 days, this lot will be on the roof, and the scaffold down. Fingers crossed


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## spitandpolish

This might be a good way to get some top end garage gear!

http://cal.cagp.com/event/marussia/


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## organisys

spitandpolish said:


> this might be a good way to get some top end garage gear!
> 
> http://cal.cagp.com/event/marussia/


wow !


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## spitandpolish

*Roof progress...*

Some roof progress, just about watertight now.
































Tiling tomorrow...:thumb:


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## spitandpolish

Scaffold down ready for doors:


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## spitandpolish

A couple of the rear:


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## dubber

Thats a proper man cave :thumb:
Great work.


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## Lugy

Stunning! Looks like it's been there forever, I'd call it a car house rather than a garage!


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## Kabel88

Keep posting love this thread!


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## kev1609

You have just taken my idea down to the last detail

Planning a garage/granny flat build next year and this is almost identicle to my drawings lol

Our cottage is over 100 years old and want it to blend in 

How hard was the stone cladding? Did it add alot more to the build cost?


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## spitandpolish

kev1609 said:


> You have just taken my idea down to the last detail
> 
> Planning a garage/granny flat build next year and this is almost identicle to my drawings lol
> 
> Our cottage is over 100 years old and want it to blend in
> 
> How hard was the stone cladding? Did it add alot more to the build cost?


The house here is about 160 years old, and we have extended it before, trying to match stone etc. the stone does add some significant cost, here it's 200mm thick, but you can get that down to 150mm easily.

I searched ebay and local ads to find people who had knocked down walls or barns etc. the grey pennant stone is not hard to find. I used 18 tonnes, roughly 3m sq of walling from each tonne. The stone was £2k, incl carriage. It was however in big pieces and was dressed (an old junior school I was told) I then had to hire a big guillotine, to cut the lumps down to smaller sizes. This also allowed me to get lots of new split faces and plenty of corner pieces. There are a lot of reveals to form here as the doors sit inside. The hire of the cutting kit was another £500.

Then it all had to be fitted together...! With labour incl, I would say the stone added 5k. If I had rendered, there would have been a cost to that, ongoing maintenance, and no match to the house. So stone it was!

Hope that helps.


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## shudaman

Lugy said:


> Stunning! Looks like it's been there forever, I'd call it a car house rather than a garage!


Defo a car house lol!


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## GTISnoopy

spitandpolish said:


> The house here is about 160 years old, and we have extended it before, trying to match stone etc. the stone does add some significant cost, here it's 200mm thick, but you can get that down to 150mm easily.
> 
> I searched ebay and local ads to find people who had knocked down walls or barns etc. the grey pennant stone is not hard to find. I used 18 tonnes, roughly 3m sq of walling from each tonne. The stone was £2k, incl carriage. It was however in big pieces and was dressed (an old junior school I was told) I then had to hire a big guillotine, to cut the lumps down to smaller sizes. This also allowed me to get lots of new split faces and plenty of corner pieces. There are a lot of reveals to form here as the doors sit inside. The hire of the cutting kit was another £500.
> 
> Then it all had to be fitted together...! With labour incl, I would say the stone added 5k. If I had rendered, there would have been a cost to that, ongoing maintenance, and no match to the house. So stone it was!
> 
> Hope that helps.


 Thank you for this information. I always wanted a ruff idea of how much stone was worth.


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## M3simon

Great work mate. Stone was well worth the extra. Great space.


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## getthewheelsinl

Wow! Great choice re: stone. Any info on the kit you hired to cut/ square the stone?


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## Maxtor

Great job! :thumb:


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## spitandpolish

*They have only gone and put the bloody doors on!*

A quick update, but a major milestone:

















More updates in Jan, when the frames are pointed in, rainwater on and window in - ie properly complete. Very please with Teckentrup so far...


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## GlynRS2

Looks superb :thumb:


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## plw

Absolutely first class job, love the attention to detail. Having just done a similar sized project this year, careful with the gutter size, we had to increase the diameter to cope with the amount of rainfall.


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## BM-Stu

Superb build. Thanks for posting, great read.


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## 4d_dc2

Fantastic. Now just to plat the lotto some more lol.


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## 20vKarlos

This is cool and looks amazing! 

I'd love a place like this to live, let alone keep a car!


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## Shamrockez

Fantastic garage - any updates? I'd love to see what you've done with the inside


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## spitandpolish

*An Update at last*

Thanks for the positive comments, appreciated. Lack of progress for many weeks, due to Christmas and two fractured metatarsals.. Onwards with improving the floor. First photo shows laitance on the surface from power floating.








After some basic grinding, some aggregate is exposed







After more work, a much smoother and flat surface has appeared







The open floor is a big improvement and has been sealed







This process not without its problems, as my first contractor did not really know what he was doing. Live and learn... This is likely to get properly polished later, when the walls and lighting are in.


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## spitandpolish

*Rendering*

The rear of the garage is rendered finish, and was previously just blockwork:









Using K Rend, a coloured render that should not need painting for many years. The end panel is finished, basically they put it on fairly roughly, and then as it goes off, it is ground back with a float that looks a bit like a cheese grater giving an open grained surface:







This is one of the expansion joints - sorry the photo is 90 degrees, not sure why... They come with tape, so you get a decent sharp finish. One side has been ground back, the other freshly applied.







Also going in between coats, a mesh is pressed in, to prevent cracking etc.







And the finished article - it has now dried back several shades lighter than this to a deep magnolia colour


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## M400BHP

looks awesome


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## c16rkc

That's incredible - you must be very pleased!


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## rtjc

Amazing building. Keep the thread going, Be brilliant to see how your interior comes along. Stuff dreams are made of


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## Bero

spitandpolish said:


> Thanks for the positive comments, appreciated. Lack of progress for many weeks, due to Christmas and two fractured metatarsals.. Onwards with improving the floor. First photo shows laitance on the surface from power floating.
> 
> The open floor is a big improvement and has been sealed
> View attachment 40792
> 
> This process not without its problems, as my first contractor did not really know what he was doing. Live and learn... This is likely to get properly polished later, when the walls and lighting are in.


Much better, how many people and how long did it take them? I got a shot of a grinder and done my garage floor...took nearly 30 hours for a 6x7m garage! Although some of that was cement patching and moving things around, it's not a fast process!


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## CleanUseless

Amazing job,love projects like this! Would love a garage like this for myself,fair play :thumb:


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## spitandpolish

Bero said:


> Much better, how many people and how long did it take them? I got a shot of a grinder and done my garage floor...took nearly 30 hours for a 6x7m garage! Although some of that was cement patching and moving things around, it's not a fast process!


Hi, it took two guys 4 days to do this. I think getting it to a decent sheen is another 2 days work. This floor is 95m sq, and for this size of floor, they could have used ride on machines, but chose not to. These times exclude curing of chemicals etc which was over a weekend.


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## Ashburner

That looks very nice indeed! I love Garage Builds! Roll on my house so I can start one!


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## isctony

Just read this thread start to finish - what a fantastic building! As others have said it would be great to see the inside again when more progress has been made. The thread made it look so easy.... and quick!!

PS - did I spot an Aston in one of those pics - I think this thread will only be complete with a finishing shot of the motors in the finished garage 

Thanks for making the time to make this thread!


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## lejenko

I'm subscribed, what a great project it puts mine to shame lol. I have a bit of an obsession for lighting I've gone for spotlights on a pir and three separately switched floods on each wall internally then spots Around the outside in the soffits with up/down lighters on either side of the garage door. The possibilities are endless


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## spitandpolish

*A Quick update*

Its been a while, but some progress. Electrician available to start, and not enough time to paint the walls, so I just painted the areas electrical work was to be installed on...








Two armoured cables, with a rubber seal to the floor duct, installation in conduit & trunking. Also fitted new water supply into the garage, again sealed within duct









Six sockets in a dado trunking in the area where work benches will go, very soon...







Lights are on, but not yet finished, pleased with lighting level, 16 double fittings overall.









Sockets all in and live.








Power and lighting will hopefully speed up the next phase. Will get there one day....


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## klw7me

This is awesome


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## liamsxa

what did you use to grind the floor and where di you get it, and how long did it take you?


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## Bero

liamsxa said:


> what did you use to grind the floor and where di you get it, and how long did it take you?


An industrial floor grinder was used. You can hire them from tool hire places, from memory I think they're around £100 a day...although I got mine for free as future brother in law has a flooring company.



spitandpolish said:


> Hi, it took *two guys 4 days to do this*. I think getting it to a *decent sheen is another 2 days work*. This *floor is 95m sq*, and for this size of floor, they could have used ride on machines, but chose not to. These times exclude curing of chemicals etc which was over a weekend.





Bero said:


> Much better, how many people and how long did it take them? I got a shot of a grinder and done my garage floor...took nearly *30 hours for a 6x7m garage*! Although some of that was cement patching and moving things around, it's not a fast process!


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## 20vKarlos

certainly come a long way! 

Brilliant building!


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## spitandpolish

*External Lights*

Today's job, external lights. Easy to get wrong this. Firstly the soffit needs to be sanded and prepared for wood stain







Bit of a long job, but now the fittings are in:







LED warm colour, stainless finish - in front of openings only. 1m spacing.







And the resulting welcome home:







And finally from outside


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## slineclean

aww what id give to have a garage like that. 

Be really keen to see what you've got planned for inside. 

Long term I might be able to get hands on a double garage and it needs painting and lighting changing ( which is straight forward in my mind ) but haven't a clue what to do inside yet other that making sure theres a water supply at least ha ha.


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## Roger440

This, my friend, is Epic :thumb:


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## Kev_mk3

subscribed to this thread epic garage cant wait to see the inside progress


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## littlejack

I want this garage. Lol


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## GreenyR

Excited to see the inside if the outside is anything to go by. Good work mate


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## Mk2Singh

That looks really nice. 

Where are the external lights/spots from?


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## EastUpperGooner

Beautiful work.


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## Dan_Mol

That is stunning.


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## spitandpolish

*This is What its like inside...*

Many thanks for the kind comments, its taken ages to move this project forward, with so many other things going on in life. Its not finished yet, but it has moved on a lot.

The floor joints used to look like this:







After cleaning, masking and filling in no looks like this:








The water supply internally also got fitted today:








Each bay has its own PIR on a timer, so no light switches, as you walk in, it lights up the fittings to follow you:


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## spitandpolish

*This is What its like inside...*

Internal shots showing the workshop end:


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## rhinoman

Quite ironic that you have got one of the biggest garages on here and one of the smallest cars......

Fantastic space though, very jealous.


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## spitandpolish

*This is what its like inside...*

It needs a bit more on the walls to brighten it up, but that will come with time. The next main thing to do, is to fit some metal storage cupboards at the opposite end.

































I hope to finish the whole thing by end of August, and will post a final update with some cars in, as requested!


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## spitandpolish

*Lights*



Mk2Singh said:


> That looks really nice.
> 
> Where are the external lights/spots from?


Hi, they are Stainless steel finish 8w LED down lights from a local wholesaler, they are IP rated for external use. Lightingdirect.co.uk sell similar ones.


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## fozzauk

Simply stunning!


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