# Megs 105 & 205



## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

I'm just speaking to mark from AB about a DA package. What are peoples thought on the Megs 105&205 combo?


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## dooka (Aug 1, 2006)

I love 205. One of my staple polishes. Not so keen on 105, I prefer 3M fast cut.


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

Well I've read DaveKG thread on these and it seems 105 is a bit of a pain but 205 is brilliant, I'm also contemplating the megs DA system? As I doubt I could sort of pick n mix with the Megs DA system compound & megs 205?


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

I just want to add, this will first be used on my red mazda 323f (soft paint) so I need a polish that ideally is good for soft paint aswell as medium/hard :thumb:


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## CliveP (Feb 1, 2009)

Jake,

I like this pair of polishes - they are 'non-diminishing' which means they keep cutting until you decide you've removed the issue - and then with reducing the pressure and speed of your machine you can finish with a lovely gloss finish (especially on 205, but possible on 105 too). (Some polishes dimishing during the set).

Both diminishing and non-diminishing polishes have their place, but I particularly like these Megs non-diminishing ones.

Regards,
Clive.

Edit: Post of a correction I did using 205, I'll let the pictures do the talking!

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=217977


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Probably the best pair of polishes out there. Amazing results everytime


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## Blueberry (Aug 10, 2007)

I use both of these when doing people's cars, they do a really good job. It can be worked for a long time and if you are a beginner with the DA, I found them really easy to work with as a first timer.


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

CliveP said:


> Jake,
> 
> I like this pair of polishes - they are 'non-diminishing' which means they keep cutting until you decide you've removed the issue - and then with reducing the pressure and speed of your machine you can finish with a lovely gloss finish (especially on 205, but possible on 105 too). (Some polishes dimishing during the set).
> 
> ...


Very impressive clive! I asked mark if I could swap the Menzerna pads as I've heard they're not up to much?


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

205 is brilliant.. but P1 is better than 105.

p1 followed by 205 is a good combo.

205 has a lot of cut if required(pressure sensitive) but finishes really well.
DA.. CG hex pads are my favourite but hear good things about lake country aswell


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

CraigQQ said:


> 205 is brilliant.. but P1 is better than 105.
> 
> p1 followed by 205 is a good combo.
> 
> ...


Cheers buddy, I think I'll go for the 105/205 for the min to see how I get on. How much filler is in the 105 and 205? And will 205 probably be fine on its own for the soft mazda paint?


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Very little filling if worked properly, and yes I suspect 205 will dazzle on Mazda paint


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

stangalang said:


> Very little filling if worked properly, and yes I suspect 205 will dazzle on Mazda paint


Ideal thanks matey :thumb:


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

JakeWhite said:


> Cheers buddy, I think I'll go for the 105/205 for the min to see how I get on. How much filler is in the 105 and 205? And will 205 probably be fine on its own for the soft mazda paint?


In my opinion they are a product everyone should have, Meguairs have used two polishes to cover the whole range of cutting scales while other makes have 5.

The smart abrasives are very pad and pressure dependant so by changing pad and pressure you can cover the whole range of cuts of other polishes. It just needs a bit of learning time to get the very best from them and occasionally a sprits of water can come in handy on certain paints.


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

as matt said.. they dont fill much at all..

and I've done a few cars with just 205... most of the time you will see 90+% correction on soft paint like your mazda with one set on the rotary, and a 3m yellow pad with 205.

on the DA, a medium pad, with 205, might need to work it a bit longer but it will work fine.


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## R0B (Aug 27, 2010)

Great polishes and as covered above are very versatile and can do all jobs other ranges take 4 polishes to cover.

get some:thumb:


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

The Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound and #205 Ultra-Finish Polish twins are nothing short of amazing! They've allowed me to achieve excellent correction and finishing results by hand, and will certainly impress once you throw either a DA or Rotary polisher into the mix. Both polishes feature a lovely, oily lubricity that nothing else I have tried so far has been able to match. This makes them virtually effortless to work with, allowing you to concentrate on your technique to achieve the desired effect. Another key advantage to the megs twins is their supreme flexibility, and versatility. Extremely soft paint (Well, not _ridiculously_ soft, but I'll get to that later.), extremely hard paint, deep scratches, light swirls, final finishing, jeweling, short working times, long working times; it doesn't matter, these products will do it all! They aren't finicky at all, and can be used almost irrespective of temperature (Even full sun doesn't typically phase them, providing the panels aren't too hot to touch.). As a side benefit they even make excellent plastic and metal polishes...

In operation, they're the among the most reliable car care products that I have come across. #105 has given me some problems on a few isolated occasions when the humidity was _extremely_ high, but I wouldn't think that you'd have that too much in the UK (Count yourself very fortunate.). I've only found one situation where #205 has tripped up, and that is on the uber soft black pillars on our MINI Cooper, where I noticed some light hazing underneath my LED swirl finder glasses. I wouldn't worry too much about it however, as this finish is so soft that even ultra-fine detailing clay, Klasse AIO (Car-Lack68 NSC), and any microfiber this side of a Eurow Shag creates horrible marring. To date the only thing that has worked well for me on MINI pillars (After correction with #105/205 to remove deeper marks), is to use Auto-Finesse Tripple3 AIO on a Gold Lake Country jeweling pad. The ultra-fine diminishing abrasives, film formers (Fillers), and the brilliantly soft pad combined to give me a flawless final finish.

These products do require practice to get the best from them, but once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed. Both products produce a very rich, deep finish (In comparison to the brighter finish of say, Menzerna or Optimum.), with excellent gloss and clarity. Notice that I said "Both products"; #105 can be used to finish down on medium-hard paint with a soft (90ppi+) foam finishing pad, and extremely light pressure (You're virtually picking up on the pad, which is the same technique as used to 'jewel' with #205.). These are products that reward experimentation, though I would suggest that you read the posts of DaveKG and Kevin Brown on how to get the best out of them to give you a place to begin.

If you have any questions, please feel free to send me a PM, and I'll do my best to answer any questions you have. As you can probably tell, I'm a big fan of these polishing compounds ...

Steampunk


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> The Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound and #205 Ultra-Finish Polish twins are nothing short of amazing! They've allowed me to achieve excellent correction and finishing results by hand, and will certainly impress once you throw either a DA or Rotary polisher into the mix. Both polishes feature a lovely, oily lubricity that nothing else I have tried so far has been able to match. This makes them virtually effortless to work with, allowing you to concentrate on your technique to achieve the desired effect. Another key advantage to the megs twins is their supreme flexibility, and versatility. Extremely soft paint (Well, not _ridiculously_ soft, but I'll get to that later.), extremely hard paint, deep scratches, light swirls, final finishing, jeweling, short working times, long working times; it doesn't matter, these products will do it all! As a side benefit they even make excellent plastic and metal polishes...
> 
> I've only found one situation where #205 has tripped up, and that is on the uber soft black pillars on our MINI Cooper, where I noticed some light hazing underneath my LED swirl finder glasses. I wouldn't worry too much about it however, as this finish is so soft that even ultra-fine detailing clay, Klasse AIO (Car-Lack68 NSC), and any microfiber this side of a Eurow Shag creates horrible marring. To date the only thing that has worked well for me on MINI pillars (After correction with #105/205 to remove deeper marks), is to use Auto-Finesse Tripple3 AIO on a Gold Lake Country jeweling pad. The combination of ultra-fine diminishing abrasives, film formers (Fillers), and the brilliantly soft pad combined to give me a flawless final finish.
> 
> ...


Well mate, I think you've explained everything I was going to ask! :thumb: How good is ultimate compound via DA? Out of 10, what's its filling and cutting quality? is it filler heavy or can it be used to genuinely correct? and is it classed as a decent machine product? Only reason I ask is I've got some kicking around aswell


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

JakeWhite said:


> Well mate, I think you've explained everything I was going to ask! :thumb: How good is ultimate compound via DA? Out of 10, what's its filling and cutting quality? is it filler heavy or can it be used to genuinely correct? and is it classed as a decent machine product? Only reason I ask is I've got some kicking around aswell


I'm glad I could help! I've not tried Ultimate Compound via DA, only by hand (Though I have played around with #105/205 by DA very briefly.), and to be honest I wasn't uber impressed. #105/205 is simply in an entirely different league. In terms of cut, I would hazard to say that it's about an 8 on the Meguiar's scale (#105 is rated as a 12! You know it's impressive when a company starts using the spinal tap scale .), but it just isn't anything as nice to work with. UC is kind of 'gummy' feeling in comparison to #105/205, has a much shorter working time, dusts VERY badly (Which is a topic I haven't mentioned about #105/205. #105 will dust a little bit if you use long working times and aggressive pads without occasionally doing a water mist to keep it from drying out, but it isn't anything as bad as some make out. #205 does not dust at all, and stays very oily.), and isn't anywhere near as flexible. I guess the best analogy I could give is that #105 is 'Prada', Ultimate Compound is 'Prado'  (I.E. Cheap Knock-Off). I haven't really noticed much of any filling from #105/205 (Though I'd still do an APC/IPA or solvent wax & grease remover wipedown just to be on the safe side.), but I did notice some filling from Ultimate compound. This was not the 'Don't have enough time to remove some swirls, I'll reach for the filler polish...' kind of filling, more of the ', I could have sworn that I finished down better than that!' variety. #105/205 are designed for rotary, DA, or manual application, whereas Ultimate Compound is only rated for DA and hand usage.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## Lupostef (Nov 20, 2011)

2 of my favourites mate nice to work with and very versatile. 
I like to use CG hex pads with them :thumb:


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

Thanks for all your feedback guys I'll bear it in mind! I'm ordering the kit wednesday so I'll let you know how I get on :thumb:


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## Aviks (Jan 4, 2012)

Hi Guys
Meguiar’s SwirlX It is the same Product of Meg 205 only in other Package?

other question if I can use Klasse SG after Meguiars 205 ?


Thanks


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## lesdon499 (Oct 30, 2011)

Hi Guys

What a fantastic thread!!!

I bought a DAS 06 combo deal from AB and have been cra**ing it with polish pad combos which end up leaving me totally confused  Have read the guides but then posts leave you more :wall:

I'm new to this game and have just about got to grips with the prep stage so just have to take the plunge so any tips using this combo would be greatly appreciated :thumb:

thanks

les


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Aviks said:


> Hi Guys
> Meguiar's SwirlX It is the same Product of Meg 205 only in other Package?
> 
> other question if I can use Klasse SG after Meguiars 205 ?
> ...


No, SwirlX is certainly NOT the same product as #205, or anything remotely like. SwirlX is non-abrasive, thus making it what Meguiar's would call a 'Pure Polish', or what many on DW would call a 'Paintwork Cleanser/Glaze'. I personally did not care for it, and if you are dead-set on sticking with Megs consumer lineup (Big mistake, as it's not anything like as good as Mirror Glaze.), I'd try to use their 'Ultimate' products (Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, Ultimate Wax, etc.) instead.

Can you use Klasse SG after Megs #205? Yes, but you would have to do either a body-shop panel wipe, or preferably use Klasse AIO as an interim. Klasse needs a _perfectly_ clean surface to bond the paint, and the Megs polishing oils will leave a slight residue. It's amazing how much a good paintwork cleanser can pull out of the paint, even after polishing! If you are using Klasse HGSG, you really should have Klasse AIO on hand, as it compliments the sealant brilliantly.

Klasse was my first really high quality car care product, and as such I will always have a soft spot for it, even if I have moved on a bit these days. Klasse loves being layered (I think my record was close to thirty, with notable improvements in appearance after 3, 6, 12, and 24 coats.), and it loves long curing times; to achieve those 6-12 month durability figures you really need to let it cure overnight before buffing it off. You can also make up a really nice top-up spray for your Klasse sealant layer by mixing 1-part Klasse HGSG, with 1-part QD (Preferably acrylic, though I use Optimum Opti-Clean Waterless Wash with no ill effects.), and 2-parts distilled water. This is a little trick that I learned from Paul Halliday (PJGH), and it works brilliantly.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

lesdon499 said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> What a fantastic thread!!!
> 
> ...


Hi Les, welcome to detailing! Okay, the Megs #105/205 combo (Or, "The Twins" as they are collectively known.) as previously stated are a very dynamic pair of polishes, and require a lot of practice and thought to get the best from them. Even some pros who are used to classic diminishing abrasive technology struggle with them initially, so if you are already becoming frustrated (Easy to do in detailing. I was similar when I started, but that frustration drove me to learn as much as a could, and use entirely top-shelf products. Thus, ending my frustration.), I would recommend something that is a little simpler to use so that the task is still enjoyable. When you're first starting off with a machine polisher (Doesn't matter if it's a rotary or a DA), you should be focusing almost entirely on learning how to control the machine. The SMAT abrasive products require you to already be comfortable with the machine, and focus entirely on working the product rather than the tool. For this reason it might be easier for you to start off with diminishing abrasives (Which just have to be worked for a set period of time until they break down.), and move up to the Megs twins once you're more comfortable.

As for polish/pad combos I would also try to keep it simple. One pad, one polish. The Lake Country Hydro-Tech pads work well with DA polishers, and I would recommend sticking with the Cyan, Tangerine, and Crimson pads. Cyan for cutting heavy swirling and moderate RIDS, Tangerine for light to moderate swirling and light RIDS (Contradiction in terms, but you'll understand .), and Crimson for light holograms/hazing and burnishing. Heavy cut with Cyan, intermediate polishing with Tangerine, and finishing with Crimson. If you're dead-set on starting off with the Megs twins, I would suggest using #105 with the Cyan for heavy cutting (Or Tangerine if you need a slightly lighter cut.), and #205 with the Tangerine (Moderate Swirl Correction.) or Crimson (Final Finishing) depending upon what step of the operation you are attempting.

If you want to try diminishing abrasives first to get a feel for machine polishing before you step up to SMAT technology, I would recommend just playing around with something like Dodo-Juice Lime Prime on Crimson and Tangerine Hydro-Tech pads until you feel comfortable. LP has a surprising amount of corrective power, is very easy to work with, and only really bites on uber-soft paint. If you need more corrective power, but still don't feel comfortable enough with the machine to step up to use #105/205, I'd try something like the Wolf's Chemicals range of polishes. WP-5N with Cyan for heavy cutting, WP-3N with Tangerine for general correction, and WP-1N or WP-2N with Crimson for final finishing.

I used a lot of detailing terminology in my post in reference to the type of defects that you would use each pad/polish combination to address. I think that with practice you will be able to easily recognize the various categories and degrees of defect by sight and feel, but if you need a little bit of guidance as to what you look for when quantifying these defects, please feel free to ask. As a rule of thumb, start out with the lightest combination that you think could do the job, and gradually work upwards in the aggressiveness of your combination until you remove the defect. Products that are commonly classified as having a 'mild cutting action' by professional detailers can sometimes provide a surprising amount of corrective power, and you never want to remove paint unnecessarily. After you have found a combination that has removed the defect, step down again through the cut scale to the next level (Or Levels) of abrasive/pad until you are satisfied with the final finish.

Before attempting heavy correction, I would first highly recommend that you purchase a paint thickness gauge. This will prevent you from going too far, and damaging your paint, or the paintwork on other people's vehicles.

Hopefully this explanation helped! If you have any more questions, please feel free to contact me.

Sincerely,

Steampunk


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## umi000 (Jan 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> No, SwirlX is certainly NOT the same product as #205, or anything remotely like. SwirlX is non-abrasive, thus making it what Meguiar's would call a 'Pure Polish', or what many on DW would call a 'Paintwork Cleanser/Glaze'. I personally did not care for it, and if you are dead-set on sticking with Megs consumer lineup (Big mistake, as it's not anything like as good as Mirror Glaze.), I'd try to use their 'Ultimate' products (Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, Ultimate Wax, etc.) instead.
> 
> Steampunk


I'm sorry, but this isn't the case. Swirl-X is definitely abrasive - in fact, it's more abrasive than 205, as *this thread* over at Meguiar's Online states:



Mike Phillips said:


> The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you!
> 
> *Super Micro Abrasive Technology = SMAT*
> From left to right, the most aggressive to the least aggressive SMAT products
> ...


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Hmm.... Interesting. The label and supplied marketing clearly states that it is a non-abrasive product. It's been a really long time since I stopped using consumer-line products, so my memories of SwirlX are a bit sketchy. When I first started out I had Ultimate Compound, ScratchX (Original formula), SwirlX, Griot's Garage Fine Hand Polish, and Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish #2. If I remember correctly the only one I really liked was Ultimate Compound (For both finishing and cutting capabilities with a microfiber hand applicator.), as I think both SwirlX and Deep Crystal gave me marring without any noticeable gloss enhancement (When used after Ultimate Compound on soft paint), Griot's Garage Fine Hand Polish didn't really correct or refine much, and ScratchX didn't seem to remove any of the shallow scratches I tried it on, even after multiple applications. Later I contributed my lack of success with SwirlX to either contaminated microfiber applicators, or to it removing some of the filling from UC (A phenomenon my own testing has since proven, though I suspected it at the time.), but if it is an abrasive product it would go some way to explaining what happened. Thank you for posting this link, as I truly love to learn, and this may have helped me solve one of my first detailing conundrums!

Sincerely,

Steampunk


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## umi000 (Jan 14, 2011)

Yeah, the labeling can certainly be confusing - ironically since we might know a bit too much!  It's a consumer-line product, so they label it as "non-abrasive" to inform the average consumer that it's not going to cause scratches on it's own - though even that isn't always the case, as your experience has shown.


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## Aviks (Jan 4, 2012)

Steampunk said:


> No, SwirlX is certainly NOT the same product as #205, or anything remotely like. SwirlX is non-abrasive, thus making it what Meguiar's would call a 'Pure Polish', or what many on DW would call a 'Paintwork Cleanser/Glaze'. I personally did not care for it, and if you are dead-set on sticking with Megs consumer lineup (Big mistake, as it's not anything like as good as Mirror Glaze.), I'd try to use their 'Ultimate' products (Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, Ultimate Wax, etc.) instead.
> 
> Can you use Klasse SG after Megs #205? Yes, but you would have to do either a body-shop panel wipe, or preferably use Klasse AIO as an interim. Klasse needs a _perfectly_ clean surface to bond the paint, and the Megs polishing oils will leave a slight residue. It's amazing how much a good paintwork cleanser can pull out of the paint, even after polishing! If you are using Klasse HGSG, you really should have Klasse AIO on hand, as it compliments the sealant brilliantly.
> 
> ...


Hello and Thank You

Greg from detailedimage say another



> If you want a clay bar I would suggest a fine grade bar. I would suggest you get the Meguiar's M205 to polish the paint and then apply the Klasse sealants .
> 
> Greg @ DI


so if i right understand you i no need nothing else for my first protect if i use only Klasse product
Thank You


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## country boy (Feb 21, 2011)

Steampunk,what applicators are you using when doing it by hand? I've used UC on a German applicator on the yellow side and finished it down with the black side and am quite impressed with it but this combo sounds even better. Could you give us some of your tips by hand please?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Aviks said:


> Hello and Thank You
> 
> Greg from detailedimage say another
> 
> ...


It depends upon whether or not you want to remove some swirls first, or not.

If you don't really mind swirls, but want to give your car some solid protection, I would use the following process:

Step 1 - Wash with 2BM & pH Neutral Shampoo; dry with microfiber drying towel.
Step 2 - Clay with fine-grade clay bar and lubricant (QD); sop up residual moisture with MF towels.
Step 3 - Apply Klasse AIO sparingly and work thoroughly into paint with moist microfiber hand applicator, or a DA on low speed with a foam polishing pad if you have one. Let stand for 20-45 minutes, and buff off with MF towel.
Step 4 - Apply Klasse HGSG sparingly in straight lines with moist microfiber hand applicator. For best results let product cure for 12 hours before buffing off residue with a microfiber towel. If you are in a hurry, or the humidity is high, remove immediately or wait 45-minutes and use QD to help you buff off the residue. Layer after 12-24 hours.

If you want to remove swirls, you can use Megs #205 in between steps 2 and 3.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

Very good thread here, very informative and great discussions on here.

Its a great learning curve this thread, lots of people have placed alot of effort on this thread.


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## Aviks (Jan 4, 2012)

Steampunk said:


> It depends upon whether or not you want to remove some swirls first, or not.
> 
> If you don't really mind swirls, but want to give your car some solid protection, I would use the following process:
> 
> ...


*Steampunk* Thank You
i read the Microfiber should be moist in you post ,than it should be wetted by? I did not have to apply a klass to a dry microfiber applicator?


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

Jake 205 should do the job on the mazda, see how you go, on the BMW you can try the same combo but you might need to step up to 105 for more defected areas, then refine with 205, i know the BMW will be a two stage correction, as you have told me.

I would personally not invest in the microfibre pads from meguiars and there compound, they cut the paint quickly, thats the last thing you want to do, is to take to much paint off.

Jake have you got merzerna pads, if so how did they perform.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Aviks said:


> *Steampunk* Thank You
> i read the Microfiber should be moist in you post ,than it should be wetted by? I did not have to apply a klass to a dry microfiber applicator?


By applying the product with a slightly damp (Take a spray bottle and apply a light mist onto the surface so that it is moist to the touch, but no thoroughly wet.) microfiber applicator, it allows you to spread a thinner layer, and makes buffing off much easier. It also extends the 'Flash-Off' time of HGSG/AIO, so that they are much more manageable products to use.

Hopefully this helps...:thumb:

Steampunk


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## GJM (Jul 19, 2009)

CraigQQ said:


> 205 is brilliant.. but P1 is better than 105.


Better in what way, I like P1 but when find you need results when dealing with some nasties, I find 105 wins


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## k9vnd (Apr 11, 2011)

CraigQQ said:


> 205 is brilliant.. but P1 is better than 105.
> 
> p1 followed by 205 is a good combo.
> 
> ...


Totally agree'd.


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