# Bilt Hamber - Auto Clay



## craig79 (Apr 17, 2008)

Took the plunge and just ordered some of the above.
Wanted to see what all the fuss is about :lol:
As per everyone else's reason, I liked the 'water' lube concept .
Have got a couple of cars to do in the next few weeks so 
the house brick quantity will be handy - will keep you posted.
Craig.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

enjoy - good stuff


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## craig79 (Apr 17, 2008)

Cheers mate :thumb:


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## L555BAT (Apr 3, 2007)

Will the autoclay remove previously applied LSP's. Or is it better to use some other product to remove old wax/sealant, then use autoclay?


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## isherdholi (Sep 18, 2007)

I think the Autoclay, like most clays, will remove LSP.


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## craig79 (Apr 17, 2008)

My understanding is that it's a mild to medium clay
thus removing any lsp on my car - at least I'm hoping anyway 
Craig.


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## Blazebro (May 18, 2007)

This stuff is absulitely amazing. I did the missus 51 plate Fiesta at the weekend. After doing a quarter of a panel whether it be bonnet, roof boot or door, when I looked at the bar it looked like I was holding a lump of Mahogony! 

It had never been clayed before and you could so notice the difference by after. It's not very plyable so keep a bucket of warm water near by and drop it in there every so often it soon softens up.

The way I use it is that I dry the car after washing which removes any loose surface grime. I then fill up a watering can and poor water on each panel as I do it and then dry each panel again. Gives outstanding results :thumb:


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

Glad you liked it.


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## craig79 (Apr 17, 2008)

My Auto-clay arrived just there - what a bargain !!
Can't wait to use it tonight, out of interest how many cars
does everyone get out of a 200g bar. Looking at it you would 
comfortably get 4 (as long as there are no drops) ??
Craig.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

I just cut thin slices off mine and use them as I need them. Done 3 cars on my latest bar and at least 50% still left... Works well with a hose used to line the panel.


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## joe_0_1 (Apr 7, 2007)

Could somebody update me with this? 

Is it a new clay that can be used with just water?

Price?

Thanks


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## bassologist (Apr 24, 2008)

joe_0_1 said:


> Could somebody update me with this?
> 
> Is it a new clay that can be used with just water?
> 
> ...


Yep. works with just water, very good product , used it a few times now and saves the cost of buying clay lube .. £9.95 from...

http://www.bilthamber.com/autoclaybuy.php


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

Or from Elite Car Care, Pro-Detailing, Ultimate Finish, and Rubbishboy


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## craig79 (Apr 17, 2008)

Cheers mate, that seems brilliant value for money 
Craig.


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## joe_0_1 (Apr 7, 2007)

PJS said:


> Or from Elite Car Care, Pro-Detailing, Ultimate Finish, and Rubbishboy


Do you happen to know which is cheapest, and that takes paypal? 

I'd check, but have lmiited access at work


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

joe_0_1 said:


> Do you happen to know which is cheapest, and that takes paypal?
> 
> I'd check, but have lmiited access at work


I'm presuming you've already checked this by now?
Sorry I wasn't able to reply - only just home.


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## joe_0_1 (Apr 7, 2007)

A friend has lent me some of this now...

I take it you use it exactly the same way as normal clay (sonus green etc) ?

Thanks.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

yes - but just water as a lube - either keep a spray bottle with me or if I can have the hose with a trigger sprayer head, so its easy to flood the surface.


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## joe_0_1 (Apr 7, 2007)

Thankyou mate, so effectively, I may aswell wash > rinse > clay with water still on (but using a sprayer too) > re wash?


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## craig79 (Apr 17, 2008)

Sounds good to me 
Craig.


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## Original Poster (Apr 28, 2008)

highly reccomend this!

Worked wonders on the missis KA!


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

Glad you like it, Ben @ Rubbish Boys is doing a bit of a Bilt Bundle deal at the moment.

£50 the lot. AND that includes UK post and packing. :doublesho










http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=94


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

now thats a bloody good deal


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

Especially with free UK P&P, it certainly is. Nice Father's Day prezzie perhaps?


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## bluetrebor (May 1, 2008)

I need some clay but do not want something too aggressive.

Is this clay quite mild?


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## Original Poster (Apr 28, 2008)

bluetrebor said:


> I need some clay but do not want something too aggressive.
> 
> Is this clay quite mild?


I believe it is medium/mild!


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

bluetrebor said:


> I need some clay but do not want something too aggressive.
> 
> Is this clay quite mild?


Describing clays as mild/medium/aggressive is a bit hit and miss because not all clays are the same chemical composition.
You can read more about that if you look through the posts BHL or B-HK have made on the subject.
Bottom line, it's more aggressive than most of the ones normally suggested, but yet as mild when it comes to potential for marring the paintwork.
The other brands that are considered/classed as aggressive, will marr no matter how much lube you use.
So, have no fear - get one and crack on with it. One of the biggest bars on the market, so excellent value for the money, and that's even before you factor in the saving by not having to use a dedicated lube.


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## wedgie (Apr 5, 2008)

I used BH auto clay for the 1st time today and cant say enough how impressed i was with it..Easier to use than some other "clays" i have used and the fact it uses water is a bonus


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## bluetrebor (May 1, 2008)

Well I have only ever used Megs Quik Clay set, and found this ok although having nothing to compare to cant say how good it is.

So if you had to buy between sonus green, megs and BH would you go for the BH?

Tap water is ok for the lub isnt it?


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

BH, for the reasons I explained above.
Yes, ordinary water - doesn't need to be deionised, but you can do if it's warm/sunny and your water is high in mineral content.
If you're rewashing afterwards, then ordinary is fine.


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## rdraper (Jun 28, 2008)

Has anybody tried the soft version of this clay, cus just about to order some and wondered which one would be best?

Cheers


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

You'll find there's not a whole lot different, but as you'll be probably needing to do it again come late Autumn or Winter, then the soft will be a bit more malleable during that time of year, without needing to be kept in a cup of warm water, like the original tends to need.


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

Thanks to jane at bilt hamber I received order of 2 x each clay very quickly and quite cheaply I might add

The soft is magnificent, I tried it with water only and it did a sensational job, extremely easy to use
I have not tested the regular yet, it was covered with talcum powder in the box
The box that stores the clay is not bad, just needs to be a little bigger

A quick question for BH clay regulars - is the auto soft bar the same strength as the regular or more like sonus ultra fine?


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

Not as aggressive as the original (blue container) but Pete formulated it to be as close as possible, and an easier one to manipulate in colder weather without the prerequisite of a cup of warm water.
So, unlike the other brands out there, I'd be doubtful of you seeing much difference between the two - as in using the mild, then going over with the aggressive and seeing what the mild missed or couldn't remove.


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## ron burgandy (Apr 18, 2007)

just recieved my 200g lump of auto clay, should i use all of it at the same time or how many pieces can i cut it up into?


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## rubbishboy (May 6, 2006)

Yeah, chop it up. I break mine into six or eight.


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## Gandi (Dec 18, 2007)

8 maybe even 10 if your only doing small bits of teh car


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## treaclesponge (May 29, 2008)

Great stuff! Ordered some a while back and got great results with it. I bought a plant sprayer from Homebase for 99p to use as a lube sprayer. After finding the clay quite hard to mould I changed for some fairly warm water in the sprayer to help keep it soft but I still found that it needed warming in a cup of water pretty often.


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## marc0 (Apr 13, 2008)

Brilliant product!!!:thumb: I'm fairly new to detailing after purchasing a brand new car and the Bilt Hamber products were the first I purchased after reading the great reviews on this forum. My Dad has also been impressed after using the clay on his Discovery which has to our knowledge never been clayed before. The difference after claying was incredible and the added beauty of only requiring water as a lube is genious.


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

Good to hear Marc0, cheers.


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## bluetrebor (May 1, 2008)

As many others I have bost soft and regular. Am planning to clay and polish this weekend. This will be first time I have clayed car since buying it 3 months ago and not sure if it had been done before that. What would you suggest I go for, soft or regular?

Thanx


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## andybill (Apr 19, 2007)

try the soft and if you dont get results you want after 2 passes max then try the regular :thumb:


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

With respect, claying isn't polishing - so there's no passes as such. You slide the bit of bar you've taken off and moulded, until there's no more friction. It should glide effortlessly over clean paint.
Basically, stick a bit of clingfilm over your fingertips whilst the car is wet from rinsing, and feel the panels.
For first time use, I'd suggest the original, but if you've no plans on polishing after, then the softer will be more user friendly with less chance of marring the paintwork.
As long as you use plently of water - don't scrimp on really wetting the area and bar, you'll be fine with either one.


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## bluetrebor (May 1, 2008)

Thanks PJS, as it not been clayed before I'll try original as Im planning to lime prime lite, then purple haze. 

Thanks for the advice mate


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## maverick6732 (Aug 1, 2008)

Sounds like the BH clay is very good stuff...anyone know who may sell it in the USA? I am looking for a better grade of clay and this sounds pretty good, if not what is close in quality and results?


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## bluetrebor (May 1, 2008)

Had a go last weekend with the soft stuff. Wow how sticky is this stuff, sticks to your hands with out lube! Good stuff though, removed lots of containments. I cant see why you would use the regular, but am sure there are those in the know who would. I have both and cannot see myself using the regular now. I split the bar into 4 pieces and chunk I used was fairly large, you could easily split the bar into 5 or 6 pieces. At the end I could still fold to a clean surface and probably for some time but ended up chucking it! Car needed a rewash at the end though! Would def recommend this stuff!


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## BigLeegr (Feb 28, 2008)

maverick6732 said:


> Sounds like the BH clay is very good stuff...anyone know who may sell it in the USA? I am looking for a better grade of clay and this sounds pretty good, if not what is close in quality and results?


I read on another forum that someone will be selling the BH line in the US shortly. Not sure what sort of company name/payment/contact info there is, though. I would imagine BH will announce it when they have stock available in the States. Should be soon, I think.


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## Brazo (Oct 27, 2005)

Been using the regular stuff this week, Effective at removing contaminants and saves a fortune in QD!


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

maverick6732 said:


> Sounds like the BH clay is very good stuff...anyone know who may sell it in the USA? I am looking for a better grade of clay and this sounds pretty good, if not what is close in quality and results?


Mav,

Officialy.. no one as yet. <<whistles>>


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## THE CHAMP (Aug 1, 2008)

I have just used this product for the first time and it is very good but found it to be a little firm so keep a hot jug of water on hand to to softern it up a little making it eaiser to use. I like the fact that just water for a lube as this cleaning can get expensive


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

PJS said:


> With respect, claying isn't polishing - so there's no passes as such. You slide the bit of bar you've taken off and moulded, until there's no more friction. It should glide effortlessly over clean paint.
> Basically, stick a bit of clingfilm over your fingertips whilst the car is wet from rinsing, and feel the panels.
> For first time use, I'd suggest the original, but if you've no plans on polishing after, then the softer will be more user friendly with less chance of marring the paintwork.
> As long as you use plently of water - don't scrimp on really wetting the area and bar, you'll be fine with either one.


Yes it is, though on a microfine level
The longer you clay, the clearer and sharper the reflections become and the colour will come out of the paint

If you want the best shine, clay for hours and hours on end and you'll notice that the paint will be as slick as air and the gloss absolutely awesome
I sometimes go for five hours on one car

Once that is done, doing the usual polishing will then result in a higher gloss and the protection will bond even better.

Once the rubbish is removed from the paint, the clay is microfinely abrasively polishing the paint, bringing up the gloss the longer you work it

I found this out via a customer in sydney. he clays a panel for 3 hours and finds that the paint reflections and colour intensify much higher and polishing afterwards delivers a far higher result than just claying the rubbish off for a few minutes

Not something that too many master or pro detailers can do due to time and cost but for enthusiasts, it's definately worthwhile


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

I'll concede that a clay bar is indeed a very fine abrasive, but I'm highly sceptical that it would work as claimed in your reply.
I may give it a whirl and see if indeed it does do what is suggested - but I got to question the sanity in standing for 3 hours doing one panel, and the fact it will result in a better bonding surface.
I doubt much more than an IPA wipe would leave the surface and its various micropores and voids any more bondable than they would be - LSPs are not THAT pernickety, once you're at that point.
Besides, you're going to have the lube barrier - the abrasives will not be in contact with the surface, but skimming over it, like a boogie board does on the water's edge, or a puck on an air hockey table.

I agree full hearted about the colour and clarity after claying, but the first time I clayed, I didn't spend that long doing it - just enough to feel the friction overcome and the lump glide effortlessly, and the results were astounding. Mind you, not having ever been clayed at any stage of its previous ownership (in all likelihood) it wasn't a surprise really, looking back in hindsight.

Probably did go over the whole car with a few extra strokes that picked up no contamination, but I put the result down to what was hiding in the paint, and not the potential possibility that there may have been a miniscule amount of micro-abrading taking place as well.

Perhaps different bars' composition lends different results - but with the AC original, I can't subscribe to what is suggested above, would actually happen with it in use.

Still, as they say, it's all in the eye of the beholder - so if someone sees something others don't, then who's to say who's imagining things, and who's not?


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## adam0bmx0 (Jun 25, 2006)

Right, just bought some soft to do my new MX5 as i dont think it had been cleaned before i bought it for about 5-6 months so needs a serious clay!


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

There's quite a variation in clay composition, some contain quite large particle sizes of hard silica sand so they could be considered more aggressive, certainly as any paint contamination meets them in the body of the clay they get abraded - we looked at all manner of mineral fillers for our clay bars and found that we could get them working better by working the density of soft mineral within the bar, so no need for large or hard particles.

We've also seen clay bars that contain powdered surfactants which gradually leach from the clay block - the manufacturers are not specific about what surfactants they use, but as some surfactants can attack paint binders and cause corrosion it may well be worth finding out. Can't comment on any particular makes other than ours which does not contain any.


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## stevie53 (Jun 26, 2007)

I am very happy to see all these happy detailers with good reviews as I've just purchased 3 packs.
1 for my brother who is totally clueless about detailing so I didn't want him confused and the good thing is you only need water. Into the bargain he's a tight ar5e and wouldn't be happy having to shell out for lube too.
the other 2 are for me for my fathers car and mine. roll on the wkend and I hope it's good weather cos I want to get out and play with my new toys


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

Stevie, thanks and thanks for buying a British product made here too.


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## stevie53 (Jun 26, 2007)

I started to clay my fathers Rover 75 today with my newly purchased bilt hamber.

started on the bonnet, so broke off a small piece of clay and got my spray bottle filled to the brim with cold water. 

the bonnet went like a dream, fantastic result. the problem started when I wanted to dry panel off and wax it. the clay wouldn't come off my fingers I ended up scraping it off. I tried to reshape it but it just kept sticking, I did have plenty of water that wasn't the problem

I gave up not long after that, so I thought I'd put it you guys to tell me where I'm going wrong

cheers

stevie


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

stevie53 said:


> I started to clay my fathers Rover 75 today with my newly purchased bilt hamber.
> 
> started on the bonnet, so broke off a small piece of clay and got my spray bottle filled to the brim with cold water.
> 
> ...


If it was a small bit of clay and it had shifted and absorbed a good amount of traffic film then this can contaminate/soften the used clay quite a bit, which may cause it to stick to your fingers. Use a bigger bit and keep your fingers well wetted during use. If you get a bit do this again roll the clay into a ball and wipe it across your fingers.


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## stevie53 (Jun 26, 2007)

that would explain it, the car has never been clayed before in fact I don't think it's been polished/waxed since it left the showroom 
it was a small piece that I used and although I did keep the paintwork well lubricated my fingers were dry

I'll know better the next time :thumb:

cheers

stevie


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

No probs Stevie


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## Guest (Aug 23, 2008)

I use warm water, depending on how bad the paint work is I sometimes use QD as well, just to help it along.


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## Nickos (Apr 27, 2006)

mine arrived today, will be testing as soon as i get some other crapout the way


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

As BHL has said, and I wish I'd thought of saying myself sooner on some other threads recommending the soft Autoclay, you need to wet your hand as well as the bar and surface.
Don't know why it's not the same with the original, but hey, such is life sometimes. A small irk that'd be all the more irksome if the bar didn't work all that well, but since it does, then it's liveable with.


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## titchster (Mar 24, 2008)

Another to highly recommend it. It was the first (and only) clay I've used, and I find it easy to use, and very 'economical'. I cut it into 1/4's and managed to use 1 1/4, on 3 different cars, as it was reaching the end of the 3rd car, it was starting to reach the end of its life. Still another 3/4's to go.


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

PJS said:


> As BHL has said, and I wish I'd thought of saying myself sooner on some other threads recommending the soft Autoclay, you need to wet your hand as well as the bar and surface.
> Don't know why it's not the same with the original, but hey, such is life sometimes. A small irk that'd be all the more irksome if the bar didn't work all that well, but since it does, then it's liveable with.


 To be fair this happens with all clays if they're saturated in road film - but good practice to keep the panel and bar very well lubed with water and knead and re-shape regularly.


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

I find that brand new BH soft clay will be sticky for it's first two uses
Stick it in the microwave and cut it up to restore it to it's new condition after it gets dirty with contaminants

Softening it by heat will stop that

Also makes the bars last longer


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

Dream Machines said:


> I find that brand new BH soft clay will be sticky for it's first two uses
> Stick it in the microwave and cut it up to restore it to it's new condition after it gets dirty with contaminants
> 
> Softening it by heat will stop that
> ...


Cheat!


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> To be fair this happens with all clays if they're saturated in road film - but good practice to keep the panel and bar very well lubed with water and knead and re-shape regularly.


Hmm....not in my experience with the original, and I've used it with some serious amount of crap and crude intermingled.
I just presumed the composition of the soft was this way inclined or as a result of the warmth of the sun with it sat in the boot - since that was the first time it'd been pulled out for testing.

Still, it's a minor gripe for me, which is easily overlooked.


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

PJS said:


> Hmm....not in my experience with the original, and I've used it with some serious amount of crap and crude intermingled.
> I just presumed the composition of the soft was this way inclined or as a result of the warmth of the sun with it sat in the boot - since that was the first time it'd been pulled out for testing.
> 
> Still, it's a minor gripe for me, which is easily overlooked.


You can do it Phil believe me - if you take a very small piece it'll happily gobble up road film till it's gorged! It's the same formulation except for polymer length.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

clayed a MINGING 8 yr old MR-2 with it this weekend that was in a REAL state. The paintwork felt like 1000 grit sandpapr and i worried the soft clay might not be man-enough for the job, but it transformed it  Clay itself didnt get particularly dirty but it must have taken off quite a bit as the paint was supremely smooth afterwards :thumb:

What REALLY impressed me was that the paint is SO soft I got 80% correction with a finishing pad and WATER at 900rpm, but the clay didnt leave any marring 

No stickiness for me though


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> You can do it Phil believe me - if you take a very small piece it'll happily gobble up road film till it's gorged! It's the same formulation except for polymer length.


Don't know if we're at crossed paths here - I was commenting on your remark, that I took to mean the original Autoclay will be sticky too, which I've not yet found to be the case.
Mind you I have only used the soft the once - maybe a couple more goes will let it "settle down" as Matt seems to suggest.

As for microwaving tar, bird crap, tree sap, bug guts, etc - then a burger after? No thanks! I'll just use it and replace it with a new bar when required.


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

Dream Machines said:


> Softening it by heat will stop that..
> 
> Also makes the bars last longer


PLEASE IGNORE THIS COMPLETELY AND UTTERLY USELESS PIECE OF ADVICE.

Honestly..


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

Bigpikle said:


> clayed a MINGING 8 yr old MR-2 with it this weekend that was in a REAL state. The paintwork felt like 1000 grit sandpapr and i worried the soft clay might not be man-enough for the job, but it transformed it  Clay itself didnt get particularly dirty but it must have taken off quite a bit as the paint was supremely smooth afterwards :thumb:
> 
> What REALLY impressed me was that the paint is SO soft I got 80% correction with a finishing pad and WATER at 900rpm, but the clay didnt leave any marring
> 
> No stickiness for me though


To help somone out, the other week, I did an old boy's Pug that he was selling. It had been standing outside next to a building site for over 12 months. I'm inclined to overlook surface crud as charming patina, but even I gulped when I saw it.

I try not to talk about what I think about the product, because _I_ know I'm a devious biased git and (hey) I wouldn't trust me, but suffice to say, I was pleased with the result  . I used it in conjunction with one of my favourite items (Mothers Bug wipes), which are great for quickly wiping dead stuff off headlamps etc after a long journey. Back to the subject, I first used Pete's clay a few years back now, on a PT Cruiser (remember that Pete?!), and remember that if I dipped my hand into a bucket of warm water, that helped the process no end. Its funny, because I didn't ask 'why' and I had forgotten all about it, but perhaps there was some methodology at play there.

Anyway, back to the Pug. The clay bars were black at the end of it and I binned them (in fairness, they have seen some fair use, but they got seriously clobbered on this big boy), and there's no way it'd be let near my microwave either. Pete's assertion does explain why his old kitchen microwave was taken away to the Chemical Defence Establishment at Porton Down, for comparison testing with something that was once found lurking in the blood of a dead African monkey's white socks.


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

None of my advice is ever useless

Maybe I'm radical and try strange things with companies products but that's thinking outside the box 
It's easy to be a critic than a revolutionary (I want to be the latter)

What is wrong with putting the bar in the microwave for 20 seconds to soften it and make it easier to cut up and re knead. some clays do go like concrete in the cold weather you know.

And as for cutting the bar in half a few times to expose the middle layers 
That is definately going to make it last a little longer

Why use just the two sides your given from new. cut it up a few times. there is a half inch of untouched section just waiting for you


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

Matt, I can't speak for others, but I suspect most are like myself, and ball the clay up, then flatten it out again.
I can honestly say I've yet to use a piece of clay that wasn't "marbled" throughout its entirety, and find it still works.
That's what set me off on my BH 'crusade', 12 months ago.


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

OK, I doubt that balling the clay up into a marble would be as good as cutting it up to get to the inner layers

But as long as it works, the technique doesn't matter


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## gt5500 (Aug 6, 2008)

TBH honest mate I think, and I may be wrong but I think it was light hearted comment meant in a jovial way because obviously making it last longer will cut down on sales. I may have got it wrong though.


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

Dream Machines said:


> None of my advice is ever useless
> 
> Maybe I'm radical and try strange things with companies products but that's thinking outside the box
> It's easy to be a critic than a revolutionary (I want to be the latter)
> ...


DM Oversize Al -BHK- was pulling your leg. We have microwaved them ourselves, but wouldn't recommend it as tiny metal contaminates could cause a nasty kitchen experience. Al say sorry!


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

Dream Machines said:


> OK, I doubt that balling the clay up into a marble would be as good as cutting it up to get to the inner layers
> 
> But as long as it works, the technique doesn't matter


Think you've the wrong end of the stick there - that was a description of how it looks once I've manipulated it, which is in reference to your comment about folding in half.
I don't fold, then fold, then fold again, etc, etc ad nauseam - I squeeze it and squash it, then flatten it out again.

The streaks of "stuff" through it after a while, resembles that of a piece of veined marble, not a glass marble that you play marbles with!


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## moisty (May 29, 2008)

Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> DM Oversize Al -BHK- was pulling your leg. We have microwaved them ourselves, but wouldn't recommend it as tiny metal contaminates could cause a nasty kitchen experience. Al say sorry!


Ooh no, don't recommend that! I wouldn't recommend re-activating carbon granules or microwaving old CDs, bars of soap, grapes cut in half or lit ****tail sticks either!!  :devil:


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

**



Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> DM Oversize Al -BHK- was pulling your leg. We have microwaved them ourselves, but wouldn't recommend it as tiny metal contaminates could cause a nasty kitchen experience. Al say sorry!


sorry!

mutter mutter.


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

it's all good guys, I still love you
Cheers for the great products. them clays are awesome


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

:thumb: Glad you like them. We spent a lot of time and effort on clay earlier this week funnily enough. And far be it from me to alienate our fantastic overseas suppliers.. have you got over Oz being crushed by us at Peking yet?


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

*olympics*

beijing silly

Nah who cares, as long as everyone reps their country and tries there best
my happiness in life does not depend on how well the olympic team or any team goes and even any sport

Happiness is from what I do and time spent with people


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## dan219 (Aug 29, 2008)

ordered the same and it came through the post today. very pleased with results so far, just did the bonnet. looking forward to getting on with the roof. lot of crap on that. 

needed warming up more than i expected, but weather today was pretty crappy.

all in all, good product!


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## Johnny50 (Apr 13, 2007)

I used my BH Autoclay for the first time the other day.

Having never used clay before, i wasn't sure what to expect, it was great !
Left the paint really smooth ready for my next steps. 

just kept a plant sprayer handy for keeping the water coming, nice and easy.


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