# Applying FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant



## heaton78 (May 30, 2012)

I'm still a newb at this detailing game and have only ever used a soft wax in the past. But since deciding to take better care or my investment I've been trawling the forums and reading reviews and decided on FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant.

I tried testing this on a panel on my car and found it to be very very hard and crumbly. Now all the reviews and vids I've seen show this stuff is very good but I need to know how to apply it better.

I am using a foam applicator and put a small amount of the crumbly residue that was at the top of the tin on the pad and began to use this but you don't get any smear marks on the panel as you apply it and so I wasn't even sure if it was going on with it being so hard..

Should I lift out the loose sealant at the top and throw it away then rub the applicator into the sealant in the tin? Should I be seeing some residue on the paintwork as I apply it and leave it to cure?

Sorry any tips here are appreciated..


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## Serious Performance (Oct 26, 2005)

dampen your applicator with some water or QD..... Or if using a VERY soft finishing applicator it'll be fine dry.
Ignore any little crumbly bits, you should be wiping the app onto the main block in the tin and you'll see a little transfer over onto the applicator. Apply this onto the paint very lightly. You'll prob see a little residue of the sealant on the paint but it should be very thin and relatively uniform. Leave it anywhere from a few mins or till you've applied to about half the car and then go back and start removing.

One trick when removing sealants is rather than removing just with your buffing towel alone is to spritz a little Quick Detailer (FK #425 just as an example) onto the paint just before you remove the sealant residue, or use a damp towel first, and then follow up with your dry buffing towel. This just makes any heavily applied spots easier to remove and means you won't get any residue dust anywhere (not that you do with FK1000P if applied thinly). It can also add to the slickness of the finish which is why FK1000P and #425 are such an awesome combo.

Then stand back and admire! .

Hope that helps.
Alex.


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## domino (Apr 19, 2010)

Out of the 30+ pastes I have this was the only one I sold off

Tried applying it to wheels and was a nightmare to remove

IMO 476s with the same wet foam app technique will work just as well


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## Serious Performance (Oct 26, 2005)

Domino, you applied it to thickly then, simples! 476 can be just as much a pita if applied to thickly.
And you forgot to answer the actual question the OP asked and that was how best to apply it which he obviously isn't doing quite right, and therefore a constructive post trying to help a fellow enthusiast would have been more constructive... But then it's far easier just to slate it and say use something else isn't it.... I'm sure he'll either click with the FK or find something else to use in his own time.


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## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

heaton78 said:


> I tried testing this on a panel on my car and found it to be very very hard and crumbly.


That's probably because it's too cold. With 1000p you need to work the pad
around the tin until the wax turns to a buttery consistency. Ideally it needs 
to remain like that whilst it's applied to the paint.

The minimum ambient temp is 15degC or 60degF and this should remain for 
several hours _after_ application, otherwise you won't get the longevity that 
it's renown for. Also, unless you have that temperature it would be a waste of
effort trying to layer it. The solvents in the second coat would only dissolve
the partly cured first.

FK1000p is a great product, and it works best by observing some fairly basic 
rules that actually apply to most hard wax products. You only make extra
work for yourself if you disregard them.

Regards,
Steve


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## Crash Master (Feb 5, 2012)

Agreed


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## heaton78 (May 30, 2012)

Lowiepete said:


> That's probably because it's too cold. With 1000p you need to work the pad
> around the tin until the wax turns to a buttery consistency. Ideally it needs
> to remain like that whilst it's applied to the paint.
> 
> ...


Hmm I may have a problem since I live in Scotland and we will be above 15 Celsius for about 2 months of the year lol. I'll have a couple more attempts with the dampened applicator and using my QD as I remove and see how I get it. If no joy then I'll ebay it and go for something softer like the paste.

Cheers folks.


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## bero1306 (Jan 24, 2011)

Fk1000p is great stuff on body and wheels. Apply in warmer conditions and the sealant will be soft in the tin. Use a damp sponge or foam applicator and apply thinly, Leave for about 10 mins and buff off. Very easy to use indeed. I would leave 24 hours before a second coat.

Better than all the Collinites imo.


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## KneeDragr (Dec 5, 2011)

It's a pain to apply and remove but it lasts longer than anything I've used on my DD.


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## slimjim (Mar 22, 2007)

I've never had any bother putting it on or removing. I've got a lot more expensive sealants and waxes and it funny I keep juming back to it every now and again and like the results. 
I can't even say what you could be doing wrong as I've not had a problem with it.


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## alfajim (May 4, 2011)

damp pad and put on thinly, you can't beat it.
i've used it in all conditons from dry and cloudy to baking sun. always impressed with the results.
you know what it's like in this country, it's either raining or it's detailing weather. you very rarely get the perfect day.


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## ZTChris (Feb 19, 2012)

I find it dead easy to apply and remove even in the cold, all i can think is that it might stick hard if the paint isnt prepped properly. If its still rough, unpolished or unclayed it will be difficult to remove.


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## heaton78 (May 30, 2012)

ZTChris said:


> I find it dead easy to apply and remove even in the cold, all i can think is that it might stick hard if the paint isnt prepped properly. If its still rough, unpolished or unclayed it will be difficult to remove.


I had cleaned and clayed etc the area first.

If cold could be an issue since it is cold here most of the time, I saw a video of someone applying wax by hand, without an applicator. Slowly rubbing in the wax with their fingers. It looked really effective and would help soften the hard wax/sealant making it easier to apply. Has anyone tried this or any views on it?

The vid is here:


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## Serious Performance (Oct 26, 2005)

Theres always arguments on applying waxes by hand as a bit of a marketing gimmick and a waste of wax... Although it is good fun so why not! ... If you were to do this it generally works better with 'soft waxes that are more of a paste than a hard (solid) wax or a liquid.

What applicators are you using to apply the FK with? Like many others I use it in the cold of winter to no real bad effects other than it takes longer to cure.

Cheers.
Alex.


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## heaton78 (May 30, 2012)

Serious Performance said:


> What applicators are you using to apply the FK with? Like many others I use it in the cold of winter to no real bad effects other than it takes longer to cure.
> 
> Cheers.
> Alex.


I believe the applicator is from Simons. Its a soft MF pad.


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## Russ and his BM (Jan 1, 2008)

*Anyone* who says FK1000p is difficult to apply or remove is doing it wrong.

Fabulous stuff, very good value, durable, looks good. Only negative is that if it gets on black trim and you don't remove it, over a couple of weeks, and after contact with water (either rain or the next wash), a little white residue will spring up on the trim. That's my only, teensy gripe, however.

:thumb:


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## NorthernNick (Mar 23, 2011)

Love this stuff and will use it on any car i can!
As said, removal is a billion times easier with a nice mist of QD on the panel.

I personally apply it to one panel, start on another and by the time I've finished two panel's application, ill be removing the first panels hazing.
IE
apply to panel 1
apply to panel 2
apply to panel 3
Remove panel 1
apply panel 4
Remove panel 2
apply panel 5
Remove panel 3

etc etc


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## INWARD123 (Oct 28, 2007)

Like other people suggest apply thinly is the golden rule
If its cold I leave the tin in a bowl of hot water for a while a this removes all the crumbly bits. No recomended but I apply with my bare hands and get fantastic results as I only to 3 cars 4 times a year this way I cannot see any long term dangers.= a brilliant wax that is better than some which are a lot more money !


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## bero1306 (Jan 24, 2011)

No need. I do the whole car which gives it time to fully cure then buff off with no bother.


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## dreamtheater (Apr 12, 2010)

Never had any problems with this. Use a slightly damp applicator pad. Thin layers. I do 3 panels at a time, and then buff off.


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## alfajim (May 4, 2011)

applying with your bare hands must make them stink. it's not as if it's a nice smelling product.
if it's gone on thin enough, you can apply to the whole car; then buff off.


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## bero1306 (Jan 24, 2011)

alfajim said:


> applying with your bare hands must make them stink. it's not as if it's a nice smelling product.
> if it's gone on thin enough, you can apply to the whole car; then buff off.


Your hands would never get wet again. :lol:


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## Russ and his BM (Jan 1, 2008)

No mincing. Whole car, then buff off. Easy.


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