# Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 Review



## Neil_S

With the recent DW promotion for the Bilt Hamber kit, I have been looking at the web site to see what other goodies are for sale and boy what a range, especially for those interested in keeping the underside of the car corrosion free.

One product I found was Dynax S50 which looked just the ticket for protecting the underside of the car/arches etc.

So I bought the product knowing I would be bored over the Christmas break and try and find some time to do the front arches.

I've been working away lately and in a more rural part of the country, the car has been getting filthy dirty with lots of mud and salt which cannot be good for the protected paintwork, let alone the underside.

The Dynax S50 came in a spray can, a rather large one at that, in addition to the spray nozzle, it always came with a handy 360 degree attachment on the end of a length of tubing, which allows the nozzle to be pushed into inaccessible areas to allow you to spray the wax (not pictured).










I started by taking the wheel off and supporting the car on an axle stand, essential for this sort of work.

The arches were as expected, filthy dirty, plenty of salt and mud attached.



















I initially cleaned the arch with some Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner with some warm water, hose and sponge.










With the arches looking alot cleaner, I then removed the wheel arch liner so I could clean and get the Dynax S50 in those hidden places.

The arch liners had done a good job, minimal dirt behind them, but I degreased throughly to ensure adhesion of the Dynax S50 later.



















Now I dried the arches as best I could with some old rags. They were not completely dry, but 90% dry. I had read that the Dynax S50 pushes away moisture to allow the product to adhere which was perfect for my needs.

Starting to spray the product, it's like a thick brown solution that clings to all surfaces, it's quite thick and none of it ran away, it just stuck to the surface which was ideal.










I continued spraying, it was pretty quick and easy, I had rubber gloves on for the entire duration of this exercise and safety goggles when spraying the Dynax S50, just to take precaution.



















With the product sprayed I set about waxing the coilovers and suspension with some Collinite 915 and greased the coilovers with some copper grease.

I then refitted the arch liners and took some final shots.



















Overall, this was a very pleasing job to do. It took me about 2 hours to do one arch. I need to do the other side tomorrow, but I can see this becoming part of my winter detailing routine in future, especially when my ramps arrive.

I just find something fantastically satisfying, knowing that the underside of the car is protected like the paintwork is.

I will definitely be buying more Bilt Hamber soon. :thumb:


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## Dave KG

Nice review there Neil, and very interesting indeed.


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## GlynRS2

A great review, you have certainly added some protection where it is needed most :thumb:


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## PootleFlump

Will be interesting to see how it holds up against a pressure washer. I tend to clean the cars arches with a pressure washer and have visions of it taking this sort of product off. I guess you could argue that with this sort of product protecting the arch then you don't need to worry much about cleaning the crap off. I've always thought of this sort of was for use in cavities, box sections rather than high exposure areas. Hopefully Bilthamber kid will be along soon to explain where this product is designed to be used.


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## Neil_S

PootleFlump said:


> Will be interesting to see how it holds up against a pressure washer. I tend to clean the cars arches with a pressure washer and have visions of it taking this sort of product off. I guess you could argue that with this sort of product protecting the arch then you don't need to worry much about cleaning the crap off. I've always thought of this sort of was for use in cavities, box sections rather than high exposure areas. Hopefully Bilthamber kid will be along soon to explain where this product is designed to be used.


I did think about this myself, would expect a pressure washer to strip it, so am going to just rinse with normal pressure until spring, when I take the wheels off and see how we got on.


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## PootleFlump

I've used Hammerite Stonechip shield on my old bangers when I've welded new metal in, it's a rubbrised underseal and seems pretty good. I normally weld then paint with zinc or etch primer then follow up with the stonechip shield. I'd have thought this sort of product for the wheel arches ( after extensive cleaning!) with the Dynax sprayed into all the cavities to stop the rust creeping from the inside out.


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## bidderman1969

think i should try some of this on my Rover 75 then Neil? its still a tad dirty by the way


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## Bigpikle

looks good....


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## Epoch

Nice little exercise Neil, be intereting to see how this goes, as you say all over protection would be very favourable on your pride and joy!


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## bilt-hamber kid

Neil,

What an interesting review. I enjoy reading what you guys get up to, because you're so passionate about this, you are keen to do new stuff and above all, you share with each other what you do.

Ok. A few points first. When you get into the swing of things, you'll find that you can do 4 arches in about 3-4 hours. If you've got a Panther 6, tough! I was asked by a pro about it, from darn sarf. I suggested that once he knew what he was doing, it'll be sub 3 hours. The beauty of doing this kind of job is as was mentioned, its just so satisfying.. you get the impression that you're doing something above and beyond what you'd normally do for your car. As an aside, if there are any other pros who think there may be a demand for this, just let me know. The cost of the product can be from as little as £25 or so (excluding degreaser and rust converter to deal with any rust).

The Highways Agency gritters will soon be spreading de-icing salts extensively across our road network. Much of the salt ends up down drains or on verges, but the Highways Agency has been conducting research into the use of 'safecoat', a molasses type liquid which is added to road salt. It may be great for safety, but its bad news for cars because more will get displaced onto the underside of your car, where it can turn a slight scratch or nick into rust.

I have been asked about the rather intrusive brown colour, and we are looking at making a transparent one. The issue is not as problematic as you might think though. I understand that to you guys, aesthetics and appearance are key, but in a few hundred miles, it loses its bright look and gets covered in road film and grime anyway. When we initially developed it, Dynax was specified by trawlermen who wanted a decent quality wax and who weren't overly fussed about the colour. We engineered into it, an obvious brown dye so that it would be apparent by the user, what areas had been covered and what hadn't. If you go to marinas, you'll see it being used now all the time, as vessels are put to bed for winter. Dynax is the real deal, it is light years ahead of anything else in technical terms.

Yup, it is thick. We minimize on solvents which are used to carry other waxes into seams, and instead rely on something I have heard referred to as capilliary osmosis, or at least that's what it sounded like! Dynax has next to no solvents so yes - it is thick. We pack the finest corrosion inhibitors and waxes into each can instead (which is why its so heavy), it'd make you weep to see the types and qualities of waxes we use, to go on places where they won't ever be seen! Solvents cause carrying waxes to evaporate quicker, and in some cases, carry the product away from the areas that it is supposed to treat and preserve. Not good. Having said that, always have a large gash towel on standby just under the arch, to catch drop off. Especially if you have a nice drive.

You make a good point about road muck and salt too Neil. The safecoat mixes with the road grime and there it stays, clinging right next to the car paint or body. And an untidy car is one that isn't inspected, and when that happens, corrosion takes a grip. Mud and dried silt invariably sits on leading surfaces and that's where impact damage occurs, as stones fly up and chip paintwork. Mud retains salt laden moisture, and its proximity to exposed steel is a recipe for disaster. What you've done with the coilovers is fine.. I'd probably use a product like Ferrosol though - its far more flexible, it gets in all the nooks and crannies and it actively removes moisture and keeps it at bay. While the wheels are off, I'd certainly use a sealant like that on the back of them though which is another benefit of doing this job. You get to do the wheels properly (I think that Nick at pro Detailing has used Auto-balm on his wheels, and I'm looking forward to his comments).

What can we do before winter sets in? Well, I don't say this as a Bilt Hamber sales thing - there are waxes available which you can pick up for less money that Bilt Hamber, but genuinely, they're not as good. You will save a few quid when you buy them, but that's all you will save. Anyway, a few tips for you. First - take active steps while the weather is still with us. Set aside an afternoon to prepare your car. First, hose the underside to remove debris and mud. Next, apply a degreaser, such as Surfex, with a stiff brush. Then, inspect the sills and arches of the car for rust. Our Hydrate 80 neutralises existing rust and passivates clean steel - massively increasing corrosion resistance. If you think your car might have rust, make sure you have a product like that.

Then, apply a water displacer to nuts and bolts, door hinges, seals and electrical contacts. Ferrosol displaces moisture, keeps water at bay and will lubricate until Spring gets here. Finally, use the Dynax S50 cavity wax as Neil has done into box sections and other vulnerable areas such as the arches. Simple, quick and easy measures, but ones which will keep your car rust free and looking good. Keep polishing too, Auto-Balm gives a high gloss shine and keeps corrosion at bay. Its also one of the hardest and toughest sealants around. The Double page spread Dynax ad is in this month's Practical Classics mag: pages 118 (I think). This is the time to get the job done, our climate nowadays, means that we get ice in Jan onwards, and its now that we start to see the gritters out in force.

Pootle,

You make a few good points too mate. Primarily, it is a cavity wax but its good for other areas too. I wouldn't use it on high risk areas where mechanical damage from the road is likely, such as the exposed underside of the car. But for arches, its fine. If you do notice that a stone or rock, or whatever, has impacted the wax and breached it, you can quickly apply a quick squirt to heal it again. The capillary nature of Dynax though, means that it does heal itself and even if unnoticed, the breached area will reseal. Not perfect though, so a quick visual inspection once a week is a good idea. With regards to power washing, if you aimed the lance at it directly, at close range, then you will get some displacement. However, as you infer, you don't need to do that because the whole point of using a power washer is to try and displace safecoat and roadsalt. Everyone I know who uses it, diffuses the jet of water and saturates the area safely. A coating of Dynax in wheel arches should _easily _see you well into Spring and in concealed sections, should last 5 years.

You mention too, Hammerite Stonechip which is fine, but seeing that you don't get much ballistic damage in the arches believe it or not, its not ideal. Use that on the chassis underside, the valances etc. Bear in mind too, that you get a hell of a lot of flexing in modern wheel arches. Use a New Technology product that is flexible and stretches and one that can creep into weld seams, screw threads etc. Also, if your car experiences massive swings of humidity (such as being driven outside during the day, and going into a warm garage at night) you need to make sure that it doesn't peel off, as some older more traditional products are prone to do. ASTM 117 only tests for resistance to corrosion, many manufacturers don't bother with testing for humidity as well. Some products are formulated specifically to pass 117 (or ISO9227), and as a result, are rigid in a molecular sense and aren't too flexible. Dynax is 3-4 times more effective than other waxes, and I can say that hand on heart. I think I said elsewhere, that if I had a decent new car, I'd use a cavity wax on it, and certainly on a bog standard car that's just a few years old.

http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/TestingBasics/B117-Bogus-1.htm

http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/TestingBasics/B117.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_spray_test

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=51800&page=9&highlight=dynax

I hope that answers your questions, just shout out if you have any more, or please don't hesitate to PM me. :thumb:


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## Neil_S

Great post! Very informative and I already have plans to buy more of the range, love the corrosion products descriptions on your site.

I have left the rest of the Dynax S50 with my dad as his bike gets corroded very quickly so we put some Dynax S50 on it the other day to see how he gets on :thumb:


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## bilt-hamber kid

Cheers. Its nice to chat with people who are interested.

Is it an older chromed bike, or a newer plastic reptile?


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## Neil_S

bilt-hamber kid said:


> Cheers. Its nice to chat with people who are interested.
> 
> Is it an older chromed bike, or a newer plastic reptile?


Its a modern bike, a Yamaha, these bikes tend to corode like a bugger, my dad looks after it extremely well, but found a covered section that was a little coroded, so this should be a good product for him.


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## bilt-hamber kid

An area behind the fairing? They just hoover up that road salt don't they?

Ok, perhaps Dynax isn't the product which will be most effective. How he goes about it Neil, will depend on the area, nature and extent of the corrosion and how often he uses the bike, and what its worth. He has a few options. Ultimately I guess, it'll be whether he wants a quick fix to get him through winter without the corrosion getting a further grip, or whether he has the time and inclination to make as new. Let me know here, or by PM and I'll advise as best I can.


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## Neil_S

bilt-hamber kid said:


> An area behind the fairing? They just hoover up that road salt don't they?
> 
> Ok, perhaps Dynax isn't the product which will be most effective. How he goes about it Neil, will depend on the area, nature and extent of the corrosion and how often he uses the bike, and what its worth. He has a few options. Ultimately I guess, it'll be whether he wants a quick fix to get him through winter without the corrosion getting a further grip, or whether he has the time and inclination to make as new. Let me know here, or by PM and I'll advise as best I can.


It is just behind the fairing, at the front of the bike, not too far from the exhaust manifold.

Nothing too serious, he tends to take things off and replace bits if they are corroding.

He commutes to work on the bike and uses the bike socially too, it's never very dirty and maintained well, he doesn't tend to use it in winter to be honest and it is kept under cover.


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## bilt-hamber kid

You don't want to get on the manifold. It won't cause damage, the off gassing will stink a bit thats all. If thats the general location though, its perfect. I mentioned the creeping properties of it..










.. the right hand product in this capillary test is Dynax, the centre one a well known High Street brand and the one on the left - a Swedish make, costing twice as much. Dynax will get into cavities in confined spaces such as the inside of a fairing twice as effectively. Let me know how you get on?

These are some standard industry steel test plates after salt tests. We test Dynax and rival products regularly and then compare the plates by cleaning off all wax. Dynax on the right, and as you can see, the steel is in remarkably good order. The rival products have lost all trace of wax. You might save enough for a couple of pints by using the centre brand, but is it worth it?


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## PootleFlump

That is very very impressive. You've sold the benefits to me. Must check the piggy bank and get an order in!!!


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## bilt-hamber kid

Hi PF.

Just been reading the show thread - might be an idea to do a demo there. Its an easy job.


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## Neil_S

bilt-hamber kid said:


> Hi PF.
> 
> Just been reading the show thread - might be an idea to do a demo there. Its an easy job.


Would love to see some more of the range, the Deox-C looks great.

Out of interest, the Deox-C, will it weaken anything you treat with it?

I'm just wondering for example if you could use it on rusty wheel bolts for example without changing the strength of the bolt?


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## bilt-hamber kid

In gel or solution form, Its perfectly safe on them Neil, and 100% biodegradable and non toxic too. It doesn't damage chrome, glass, rubber.. you name it. This is my Rover V8 manifold before being done a couple of months back in the solution. I just gave it a quick squirt of Ferrosol afterwards and its still rust free.


























If its small items like that you've got to do, use the powder to make up a solution and just drop 'em in overnight. Job done.










I tried some Gel on this old Rover P5 scuttle which was wafer thin in places. Let it stay on overnight and then carefully brush off the residue with water. Its that gentle, at the end of it, you can still see the Admiralty Blue paint. At the end of it, again, a quick squirt of Ferrosol.


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## Neil_S

Most impressive, both of those products are on the to buy list.


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## bilt-hamber kid

Thats nothing. Check this out. This is the part of an amazing project being done by a guy who keeps in touch, called Peter and who won't mind me posting these 'cos I asked him a while back. Its the hub off a Sylvia that he's restoring. It comes out all goo-ey and he simply brushes it off to reveal that shine and then, in the final shot, you can see it primed. It almost seems a shame to hide that finish, and his work is as fine as anything that I've seen done. Here, he's putting the hub in a plakky bag as we suggest, to avoid the gel drying out. Its not a big deal in most environments but it works better if you leave it like that for a day or three while you crack on with other tasks, if it stays in gel form.


























































If you're interested, here are some neat links.

Peter's Waxoyl V Dynax test. This thread is interesting even for me to read, and I know the stuff inside out. He certainly goes at things full on, top work.

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=287293&highlight=dynax

Peter's resto.

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826

His Deox bit on Silvia forum.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1592177#post1592177

PS: He's 'Petrol' in the threads.


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## Alex L

Great thread :thumb: :thumb:



bilt-hamber kid said:


> PS: He's 'Petrol' in the threads.


He's a member here too :thumb: :thumb:


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## bilt-hamber kid

Is he?

I've spoken to him a couple of times, he's a nice bloke.


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## GlynRS2

This thread keeps getting better - amazing stuff :thumb:


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## Alex L

bilt-hamber kid said:


> Is he?
> 
> I've spoken to him a couple of times, he's a nice bloke.


Same name iirc :thumb:


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## Neil_S

That is bloody amazing! You'll be having me dismantle the car just to try this stuff on it soon! :lol:


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## zcacogp

BiltHamberKid, 

Thanks for your posts ... as always, helpful and informative. 

I'm a big fan of BH clay and autobalm, but now need to treat some slight rust patches on the wings of my old Porsche 944. If BH stuff is as good as it claims to be, I want to use it ... so ...

1. I am confused about the different products here. Deox Gel and Deox C, and the various prevention products. Which one should I use for what purpose? (I don't have photos, but imagine slight rust starting at the edge of a sheet bodywork panel. I'll remove loose stuff with a wire brush, and where do I go from there?) 

2. The Bilt Hamber website is ALWAYS very SLOW! Can you buy a new computer to run it on please!

Thanks for your help. 

Thanks also to whoever was bankrolling the free sample of the BH wash solution - I used my little bottle at the weekend and was very impressed! The only problem now is that I have a large bottle of another shampoo which I need to use up before buying some more BH wash!


Oli.


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## range rover dea

blown away buy the hub looks brand new:doublesho


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## ggk

bilt can you get any of this stuff in the us? like the ferrofluid and dynax s50? cause i am really liking what i am seeing if the stuff is really that good my shop might be buying this stuff all the time resto parts get hard to find and when they are rusty and bead blasting them is not an option this stuff will come in handy.

how long does the dynax wax stuff last typically? and will it come off easily? like pw it in the spring

pm me!


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## Shug

The deox C is powder you mix with water to soak parts in. For things you don't want to/can't soak, use the gel.
Then when clean n shiny use the Hydrate 80. Rust proofs and is a really tough coating. Protection looks pretty good. Took longer to remove from metal with angle grinder and flap disk the paint and primer.
Its also a funky colour of blu before drying!








Then black:








Topped off with a couple coats of stonechip, then dinitrol (bilt hamber don't do underseal yet. I trust you are working on it tho Al?  ) I reckon the underside of this manta will be solid for many years to come.
Chassis rails are full of the dynax. Boils when welded tho :lol:


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## bilt-hamber kid

Hi Oli,

Thanks, its genuinely a pleasure to read the threads here.

Sorry for the delay in replying - I've been in London for a bit. Anyway, 2 options spring to mind.

1. If you use Deox Gel, you won't go far wrong. You'll be left with clean steel and then you can treat it as you see fit, depending on the amount of good steel that you are left with (I'll assume that you have no perforated metal). On top of that, I would suggest that you use not Electroc primer, but Etchweld primer. Its ever so slightly cheaper and comes in aerosols if thats easier for you. The reason I say that is because it will grip better and the wheelarches of a car can be subject to flexing and some tensioning.

2. Your other option is to carefully remove the loose stuff (be careful not to score good steel) and then apply Hydrate 80. It will covert the rust AND leave you with a surface that you can apply paint straight onto, or leave until you have the time to do the job properly. The beauty of Hydrate is that it will start resolving the problem from the moment you apply it, and it protects if you're unable to apply primer or paint as soon as you'd like.

The purist in me says go down the Deox gel route for the ultimate in finishes in an area of the car thats so obviously visible.. but the pragmatist says Hydrate can sometimes work just as well, and be easier until warmer weather is here. Either way, the cost is about the same.

I hope thats of help. Call me or Pete at the office (01277 658899) if I can help any more.

Al.



zcacogp said:


> BiltHamberKid,
> 
> Thanks for your posts ... as always, helpful and informative.
> 
> I'm a big fan of BH clay and autobalm, but now need to treat some slight rust patches on the wings of my old Porsche 944. If BH stuff is as good as it claims to be, I want to use it ... so ...
> 
> 1. I am confused about the different products here. Deox Gel and Deox C, and the various prevention products. Which one should I use for what purpose? (I don't have photos, but imagine slight rust starting at the edge of a sheet bodywork panel. I'll remove loose stuff with a wire brush, and where do I go from there?)
> 
> 2. The Bilt Hamber website is ALWAYS very SLOW! Can you buy a new computer to run it on please!
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Thanks also to whoever was bankrolling the free sample of the BH wash solution - I used my little bottle at the weekend and was very impressed! The only problem now is that I have a large bottle of another shampoo which I need to use up before buying some more BH wash!
> 
> Oli.


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## PhillipM

The websites never been slow for me, sure it's not your end?


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## bilt-hamber kid

Hi GGK,

Funnily enough, I've been working on a distribution deal out there, so it might be sooner than you think. Failing that, of course I'd be glad to work with you directly, if you'd like. Dynax will last throughout a tough winter on most exposed areas and 5 years + within box cavities and sections. If there is mechanical damage through debris impact, a quick squirt takes seconds to recoat and protect and it self heals anyway.

It is resilient to pw that isn't aimed directly at it. So, if you're washing your car, it'll stay on. A mixture of degreaser and solvents though, followed by hammering it with the pw should get it off, although in all honesty, I've never done it.

More and more resto places in the UK are using Deox now, because it has a use alongside ablation where that might not be whats best or what the client wants. I'll drop you a PM too, but thought that some of that info might be useful generally as well.

Al.



ggk said:


> bilt can you get any of this stuff in the us? like the ferrofluid and dynax s50? cause i am really liking what i am seeing if the stuff is really that good my shop might be buying this stuff all the time resto parts get hard to find and when they are rusty and bead blasting them is not an option this stuff will come in handy.
> 
> how long does the dynax wax stuff last typically? and will it come off easily? like pw it in the spring
> 
> pm me!


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## bilt-hamber kid

I like that blue! :thumb:

Yes.. Pete is hard at work developing an underseal. Electrox is like granite when its hard. You might see score marks crossing test plates at right angles? They're so we can test all products for durability. Electric and Etchweld stay in place even when chipped at with a 'driver.

Car looks good mate, nice one. Hope you didn't sniff the Dynax when it was bubbling away though. You might end up in The Sun next to Amy Winehouse.

Al.



Shug said:


> The deox C is powder you mix with water to soak parts in. For things you don't want to/can't soak, use the gel.
> Then when clean n shiny use the Hydrate 80. Rust proofs and is a really tough coating. Protection looks pretty good. Took longer to remove from metal with angle grinder and flap disk the paint and primer.
> Its also a funky colour of blu before drying!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then black:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Topped off with a couple coats of stonechip, then dinitrol (bilt hamber don't do underseal yet. I trust you are working on it tho Al?  ) I reckon the underside of this manta will be solid for many years to come.
> Chassis rails are full of the dynax. Boils when welded tho :lol:


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## NKS

Loving this thread - so much useful information!

I tried the sample BH wash and loved it. Piecing together an order of the wash, auto balm, clay and some hydrate!


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## Dodo Factory

Great to see another manufacturer on here offering help and assistance. 

Truly good to see.


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## bilt-hamber kid

Hi DF,

Good product first and foremost. :thumb:

I like this place for 2 reasons. Firstly, and being honest, there is a commercial aspect. Secondly, I enjoy cars too, and I have learned shedloads since posting here. The place has a good vibe.

Hopefully, in the near future, Bill and I can get a sponsorship deal sorted. I e-mailed him earlier today funnily enough and we dscussed it before Xmas but I was called away. Contributing keeps the whole thing going and we're keen to pay our way.

Hopefully, the show will get sorted and then we can all get together and work out a price fixing cartel.

In case the Monopolies and Mergers Commission is browsing, that was a joke by the way.


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## Dodo Factory

LOL!

Cheers for the comments; I have some Auto Balm myself. It's funny how sad us wax collectors can be when it comes to collecting jars of products from everywhere. I don't think there is a product that quite has the *texture* of Auto Balm, although is it wrong to compare it to creme caramel? 

We believe that there is room enough in any industry for competition as every brand, and range of products, are different - or should be different at least. So the more education, openness and help on these forums from the industry, the better.

As for the price fixing cartel, I'll give you a call later 

Still joking of course.


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## zcacogp

BHK, 

Thanks for your reply. Sorry to have taken a while to get back here (I thought I had 'subscribed' to the thread but hadn't, hence when I didn't hear anything I thought you were all ignoring me!) 

As it is, I have some Hydrate 80 (I think) that I bought about 18 months ago, and never used. I presume it doesn't go off? I'll put it to good use immediately. The spot in question is very close to a plastic trim piece (which is part of the reason why it rusts), and so the finish is not that important. 

Thanks for the telephone number - if I come unstuck, I'll drop you (the BH office) a line ... 


Oli.


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## zcacogp

PhillipM said:


> The websites never been slow for me, sure it's not your end?


It's ALWAYS been slow for me! At home or at work ... Nice to know the problem isn't affecting everyone ...

Heigh ho, there's always something to grumble about isn't there!

Oli.


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## Jules

I've just spent 1/2 hour reading this thread and the one on SXOC forum as well and all I can say is:

*BUGGER !!!!!*

I did the arches on the 325 last autumn with waxoil. From what I have seen here and on SXOC I might as well have not bothered. 

I'll have to do it all again this autumn, but this time with the BH stuff.

How do I remove waxoil?


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## Neil_S

Degreaser should do the waxoil? Get some BH Surfex HD, great stuff.

The Dynax S50 is still on the arches, planning to clean them this week if the weather holds.

It's good stuff.


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## Bigpikle

let us know how they are fairing Neil - have 2 cans of Dynax all set to do inside the doors and wings of the MG, and maybe tomorrow


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## Neil_S

It sticks like anything, I had the wheel off a few weeks back and couldn't see any brake in the Dynax at all, the layer of Dynax is covered in muck, so I will clean it all off, but looks like it lasts very well indeed, ideal for older cars i'd say


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## Sandro

good news it has lasted 8 months or more neil!


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## Neil_S

Sandro said:


> good news it has lasted 8 months or more neil!


It looks like it could easily last 12, I shall have to get some photos when I eventually clean the arches.


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## r1_exup

*Query*

Hi,
I am new to this forum. Can someone please give me some guidance please:

I have just bought a new car and also 3 spray tins of S50 and 4 Tins of UB.

I was thinking that I could use the S50 and then overcoat with UB. The S50 would also be used in sills etc. that I can get to easily.

My thinking was similar to Dinitrol double treatment - the S50 would go into the small imperfections and seal them with a self healing feature and the UB would form a protective topcoat resistant to FOD.

Any comments / confirmation - I am going to treat on top of the existing manufacturers coatings and do no additional surface preparation.

Cheers,

r1_exup


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## alexf

Just bought some of the Dynax for my Golf Mk1, 

was the ideal product I was lookig for as I know the Waxoyl sold in Halfords etc is utter tripe 

Thanks Bilt Hamber, cant wait to use it!:thumb:


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## bigdry

*dynax color*

Hi there Ive been looking into buying some of this - did you ever make a clear version? for background info i have just bought very low milage, very solid fiat x1/9 and need to clean and protect it for the future. The x19 has lots of problem areas where rust forms and many of them are on show -so a clearer product is necessary - my car is silver and do not want it to become brown in color! can i aslo ask does thsi product has a strong smell like waxoil?
thanks


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