# FK1 Decontamination of a BMW 330i



## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

OK, ever since the days of reading about the FK1 Decontamination kit by that legend of a detailer L200 Steve, I have wanted to give it a full go on one of my cars.

Before doing this to the BMW I did have previous experience of using the kit on my wheels as Steve was great enough to give me the left overs of his kit for a try out (thanks buddy :thumb.

With a complete new kit purchased I thought the BMW was the perfect car to give it a try on.

The FK1 Decontamination kit is a three part process which involves applying a soil and coating remover, then moving on to apply a mild acid (steel and iron remover) and then finally shampooing with the PH neutral shampoo to finish the job.

FK1 Decontamination is said to benefit over claying in that claying sheers the heads of contaminants off, but the body of the contaminant stays in the paint.

This can be troublesome, especially for people with white cars as rust spots can bubble to the surface from certain types of contaminant that are left buried in the paintwork after claying.










The most important aspect of using this kit in my eyes is one of safety. You will need a number of rubber gloves, I have a 100 pack of latex gloves so used these. When it came onto the acid step I used two gloves just to be on the safe side, it will be a mild acid, but it is still an acid.

Prior to using the kit the car was thoroughly cleaned, just like you would prior to claying.

First up is the milky like soil and coatings remover which you mix up a solution of 1 part soil and coating remover and 4 parts water.

I used 300 ml of the product and still had quite a bit left over so anybody trying this kit, I should expect 200ml of product to be enough for a large car.

I mixed up the solution in a bucket (it smells similar to paint brush cleaner) and used a piece of sponge to apply the product.

You need to keep the surface wet continually, never let the product dry, I continually applied this product, covering roughly two panels at a time.










Absolutely do not apply this in any sunlight, the car must be cool an in shade or indoors preferably.

After the 7 minutes I rinsed off thoroughly with a hose pipe and then dried the panels with a waffle weave microfiber.










LESSON LEARNT: I taped up the front bumper plastics as I was worried about the products staining the trim. This with hindsight is a bad move as the product can become trapped in the tape if your not careful.

I quickly came to the decision to remove the tape and in using the entire kit, no damage was done to the trim.

This process was repeated over the entire car.










Now it was time to move on to the acid step










I used a cellulose sponge to apply the acid, you need to keep the panels wet with product and agitate with the sponge to get it working.

Prior to acid application I mixed up a solution of the step 3 PH neutralising shampoo. The dilution was 2 oz per gallon, so being US sizes, I mixed up an appropriate solution and got an old mitt out the cupboard which I have no intention of using after this process.










Application of the acid took place



















After the seven minutes I first rinsed the panels thoroughly and then immediately shampooed the panels with the PH neutralising solution. I was sure to check all panel gaps and door jams to ensure they were totally rinsed of solution.

Now the panels were dried with a waffle weave microfiber.

At this stage you can apply the acid again if you have particularly bad contamination, but my paint felt smooth so I didn't need to.

Overall this took me 4 hours to do the car, the system wasn't difficult to use, but you do have to be sure the panels will be cool and out of sunlight throughout the entire process.

I have about 90% of the acid remaining and about 75% of the soil and coating remover and the shampoo and the kit cost me around £50, so not too bad financially.

If you like the idea of this kit, then Alex at Serious Performance can provide it as the FK stockist on DW.

FK1 have some good informational pages on Decontamination here...

http://www.fk1usa.com/decontamination.htm


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

great write up Neil :thumb:

looked at this stuff a few times and have been slightly worried about its use YBH, so good to see another write up of the process. Looking forward to seeing more as you work o your car


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

Thanks Damon, you know I am surprised some of the pros haven't given a thought to including something like this into a premium multi day package as from a marketing angle you could give it the sell, but also on a really heavily contaminated car, given practice, I think you could execute this process quicker than you could clay.

Indeed, back in the day, me and Alex L clayed a subaru that was so contaminated (spent its life in the railway station car park), this would have really helped.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Neil_S said:


> Thanks Damon, you know I am surprised some of the pros haven't given a thought to including something like this into a premium multi day package as from a marketing angle you could give it the sell, but also on a really heavily contaminated car, given practice, I think you could execute this process quicker than you could clay.
> 
> Indeed, back in the day, me and Alex L clayed a subaru that was so contaminated (spent its life in the railway station car park), this would have really helped.


good point - one big issue though, for pros especially, is how you deal with the acid and other run-off. It is illegal for this to hit any kind of drain or water course, so you'd have to do what PB do with their collection matt or some other kind of collected drainage. Would make mobile use pretty much impossible. Strictly speaking I bet the products in the kit would need 'proper' safe disposal even for personal use, as everyone is liable for any kind of chemical pollution....


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

Bigpikle said:


> good point - one big issue though, for pros especially, is how you deal with the acid and other run-off. It is illegal for this to hit any kind of drain or water course, so you'd have to do what PB do with their collection matt or some other kind of collected drainage. Would make mobile use pretty much impossible. Strictly speaking I bet the products in the kit would need 'proper' safe disposal even for personal use, as everyone is liable for any kind of chemical pollution....


Yes very good point, to be honest with you, the acid smells pretty similar or lighter than a mixed up bottle of wheel brightener so I would put money on the acid being less potent than your average acidic wheel cleaner.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

I assumed it couldnt be THAT strong or you'd strip more than just contamination :lol:

Did you do the wheels?


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

Bigpikle said:


> I assumed it couldnt be THAT strong or you'd strip more than just contamination :lol:
> 
> Did you do the wheels?


Nope, paint bubbling on the rear of them so refurb for them is planned.

Going to sort everything else out first which will keep me occupied for quite some time, so probably address the wheels in August.


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## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

It's funny Steve mentioned to me only last week he'd noticed that Alex had these in stock and that it was time to remove the fallout from work sometime soon.

Nice write up Neil, it's a great idea and a product that works

Cheers


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## ads2k (Jul 12, 2006)

Nice review Neil, great to see it's done 'what is says on the tin'. Do you think the finish/feel is the same as if you'd clayed or better


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

ads2k said:


> Nice review Neil, great to see it's done 'what is says on the tin'. Do you think the finish/feel is the same as if you'd clayed or better


It feels exactly the same to be fair, but you know what us detailers are like, give us a hint of something being better or sort things out we can't see and it's like kids in a sweet shop :lol:


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## L200 Steve (Oct 25, 2005)

Really good write up Neil. Surprising what a difference this decon kit makes when washing for the first time, making sure that everything is as clean as can be for the future:thumb:


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## spitfire (Feb 10, 2007)

Does it remove other contaminants that are non metalic?


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

L200 Steve said:


> Really good write up Neil. Surprising what a difference this decon kit makes when washing for the first time, making sure that everything is as clean as can be for the future:thumb:


The difference in washing feel was night and day too, the FK shampoo solution just made the mitt glide over the surface, brilliant feeling.


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

spitfire said:


> Does it remove other contaminants that are non metalic?


Indeed it does, Finish Kare say it removes...

Vehicle Wrap Adhesives
Industrial Fallout
Rail Dust
Acid Rain
Oxidation
Silicones and Waxes
Tar and road grime
Tree sap
Love bugs and bird droppings
Hard Water Spots


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## Auto Finesse (Jan 10, 2007)

You know what iv looked at this a few times, it was even on my list of stuff to get off alex this weekend but i totally forgot (im useless lately) i think i will give this a whirl, iv come across a few cars that take for ever to clay due to fall out, iv used fall out remover etc but this looks pretty impressive


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

james b said:


> You know what iv looked at this a few times, it was even on my list of stuff to get off alex this weekend but i totally forgot (im useless lately) i think i will give this a whirl, iv come across a few cars that take for ever to clay due to fall out, iv used fall out remover etc but this looks pretty impressive


For those really contaminated cars I think this would be a real godsend :thumb:


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## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

Neil_S said:


> Indeed it does, Finish Kare say it removes...
> 
> Vehicle Wrap Adhesives
> Industrial Fallout
> ...


? Not quite sure on that


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## Vyker (Sep 17, 2008)

I'd love to see a panel on the car clayed, just to see if it picks up anything the decon kit missed!

Otherwise, great work!


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

Vyker said:


> I'd love to see a panel on the car clayed, just to see if it picks up anything the decon kit missed!
> 
> Otherwise, great work!


I might give that a go when I've got time :thumb:


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## gt5500 (Aug 6, 2008)

Epoch said:


> ? Not quite sure on that


Ha ha love bugs, these pesky things they have in Florida. Apparently the introduced them to eat mosquitos and they hoped in turn the bugs would get eaten by bats. Turns out love bugs don't eat mosquitos and since they are acidic not only do bats not eat them but they also dissolve your paint when they splat on your car. Go to Florida in late summer, you won't fail to see them, they fly around constantly attatched to their mate sh4gging all day until they die, hence the love bugs name.


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## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

gt5500 said:


> Ha ha love bugs, these pesky things they have in Florida. Apparently the introduced them to eat mosquitos and they hoped in turn the bugs would get eaten by bats. Turns out love bugs don't eat mosquitos and since they are acidic not only do bats not eat them but they also dissolve your paint when they splat on your car. Go to Florida in late summer, you won't fail to see them, they fly around constantly attatched to their mate sh4gging all day until they die, hence the love bugs name.


Well at least i know now :lol:

cheers


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Great write up there, Neil :thumb: Always enjoy reading about something new on the scene. Looking forward to the next stage of your detail project


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## L200 Steve (Oct 25, 2005)

I'd still be tempted to give it the lightest of clays afterwards Neil. Even if the FK hasn't shifted the bonded contaminant, in my experience it does always seem to loosen anything that is left, so that all you need is a light clay to get perfection.

Unlike normal claying of 'IF' (Industrial Fallout), the clay soesn't seem to shear the contaminant when done after the FK decon kit, rather pulling the loosened IF from the surface.

The FK also doesn't leave the paint sticky after decon, like some of the UK valeting fallout removers do.:thumb:


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## L200 Steve (Oct 25, 2005)

Pit Viper said:


> Great write up there, Neil :thumb: Always enjoy reading about something new on the scene. Looking forward to the next stage of your detail project


FYI - The very first car ever posted in DW's gallery (or wwhatever its called) all those years ago was decon'd using the FK decon kit. I know, I did it:lol:


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

L200 Steve said:


> FYI - The very first car ever posted in DW's gallery (or wwhatever its called) all those years ago was decon'd using the FK decon kit. I know, I did it:lol:


Awesome stuff Steve, I always remember your in-depth decontamination of your L200, inspiring stuff for sure :thumb:


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

L200 Steve said:


> FYI - The very first car ever posted in DW's gallery (or wwhatever its called) all those years ago was decon'd using the FK decon kit. I know, I did it:lol:


Well that's told me - I stand corrected  :lol:

Probably should have said, 'new to me', rather than 'new on the scene'


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## Guest (Jun 2, 2009)

Intresting thread this 

One slightly OT thing to mention btw, you mentinoned wearing gloves because it is acid, just because it is acidic doesn't mean it is neccesarily dangerous to your skin, infact, as they told me at school alkalis are worse to your skin generally. Lemon juice is around pH 2.5. Don't be under illusion that alkali cleaners are any safer 

Only point this out because Alkali wheel cleaners really seem to be irritating my hands at the moment, yet pH<1 AG Clean Wheels, does not seem to bother them.


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## Neil_S (Oct 26, 2005)

G220 said:


> Intresting thread this
> 
> One slightly OT thing to mention btw, you mentinoned wearing gloves because it is acid, just because it is acidic doesn't mean it is neccesarily dangerous to your skin, infact, as they told me at school alkalis are worse to your skin generally. Lemon juice is around pH 2.5.
> 
> Only point this out because Alkali wheel cleaners really seem to be irritating my hands at the moment, yet pH<1 AG Clean Wheels, does not seem to bother them.


Fair enough, just to clarify the products specifically mention to wear gloves so that was the driver really :thumb:


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## L200 Steve (Oct 25, 2005)

Audi TT with heavy industrial fallout issues. The car was covered with ferrous dust, that had landed on the car over a period of a couple of years. The paint felt like sand paper, and the owner had been suggested that a respray may be the only option. (Insurance company claiming for 'industrial fallout', so normal valeter aggresive mopping techniques for fallout removal were not deemed acceptable)

FK Decon kit same as Neil, but I used a clay bar or two to help remove the last of the ferrous dust that had etched itself into the paint -

Before -









Close up of paint -









Clay bar used after the FK decon kit -








(You can see the amount of 'rust' removed:thumb

The car after -









I've done a few cars with this since, and reckon that Epoch and I may have a Saturday bash pretty soon and use a kit or two on a couple or more cars.

I'm interested to see how it copes with aluminum fallout (non ferrous)


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## Guest (Jun 3, 2009)

L200 Steve said:


> I'm interested to see how it copes with aluminum fallout (non ferrous)


I'm guessing you're reckoning it might struggle because of step 2 being acid based (not reacting with alum)?

Whereabouts do you pickup aluminum fallout out of intrest?


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## L200 Steve (Oct 25, 2005)

G220 said:


> I'm guessing you're reckoning it might struggle because of step 2 being acid based (not reacting with alum)?
> 
> Whereabouts do you pickup aluminum fallout out of intrest?


Inside my factory.

We spray molten aluminium as a protective coating, I drive my Hilux into the shop where this is carried out (to drop off and pick up work in progress). Hence my Hilux paint now feels grotty.

I do think that the FK soil and coatings remover will help greatly with removing said fallout, by removing 100% of any wax / sealant that may be on my paint, that said fallout will be bonded into.


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## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

L200 Steve said:


> Inside my factory.
> 
> We spray molten aluminium as a protective coating, I drive my Hilux into the shop where this is carried out (to drop off and pick up work in progress). Hence my Hilux paint now feels grotty.
> 
> I do think that the FK soil and coatings remover will help greatly with removing said fallout, by removing 100% of any wax / sealant that may be on my paint, that said fallout will be bonded into.


If I could just interject here

There is categorically no LSP left on your truck Steve :thumb:

Even Z CS doesn't last that long :lol:

Roll on the FK sessions


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## L200 Steve (Oct 25, 2005)

Pink polish?


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## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

L200 Steve said:


> Pink polish?


Only what's left in the panel gaps :thumb:


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## Planet Man (Apr 12, 2008)

Bigpikle said:


> great write up Neil :thumb:
> 
> looked at this stuff a few times and have been slightly worried about its use YBH, so good to see another write up of the process. Looking forward to seeing more as you work o your car


Agree with Bigpickle above Neil, Great write up but that would scare me a bit TBH 

Also interested in the comments about Clay taking only the head off the surface contaminants.

Personally I have never come across this in my experience, I normally conduct the stockings/tights test if I think there may be some nasties left on the surface of the paint but have yet to get a hitch once I have clayed thouroughly:thumb:

I look forward to seeing/reading others experiences with this stuff to see how it shapes up.


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Planet Man said:


> Agree with Bigpickle above Neil, Great write up but that would scare me a bit TBH
> 
> Also interested in the comments about Clay taking only the head off the surface contaminants.
> 
> ...


clay only shears off whats above the paint - so will leave a smooth surface BUT some contaminants will be etching into the paint and reacting/blooming below the surface level. Chemical decon takes care of that and the FK kit will neutralise those ongoing reactions etc. Clay would just remove whats sticking up but leave anything else to continue to react.


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## Planet Man (Apr 12, 2008)

Bigpikle said:


> clay only shears off whats above the paint - so will leave a smooth surface BUT some contaminants will be etching into the paint and reacting/blooming below the surface level. Chemical decon takes care of that and the FK kit will neutralise those ongoing reactions etc. Clay would just remove whats sticking up but leave anything else to continue to react.


Fascinating!! I feel an experiment coming on I knew that USB microscope would come in handy for something:lol:


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## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Planet Man said:


> Fascinating!! I feel an experiment coming on I knew that USB microscope would come in handy for something:lol:


yep - the current popularity of white cars makes some of the contamination issues much more obvious


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## kk1966 (Aug 8, 2007)

I would be interested to know what the active ingredient is as far as the 'acid' goes. I have always used 'Oxalic Acid' to achieve the same results.

If anyone here ever sees a brand new 107 in a car park just run your hand across the bumpers and see what it feels like as in my experience i have yet to come across one that isnt contaminated after its spent the start of its life on the back of a european transport train like many manufacturers use:doublesho

The following wikipedia link may be of interest if reading this

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalic_acid


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

has anyone tried a clay after using this ?

im tempted to use this, because it looks less tedious than claying a car, but if you need to clay aswell then i may not bother, my car isnt full of stuff it just has bits here and there


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

Neil_S said:


> Thanks Damon, you know I am surprised some of the pros haven't given a thought to including something like this into a premium multi day package as from a marketing angle you could give it the sell, but also on a really heavily contaminated car, given practice, I think you could execute this process quicker than you could clay.
> 
> Indeed, back in the day, me and Alex L clayed a subaru that was so contaminated (spent its life in the railway station car park), this would have really helped.


Your spot on. I've been saying this for a year or more
Snow foaming and then claying don't cut it. Not even Iron X and claying does enough.

The products are safe to use, just use nitrile gloves

The 2 litre step 1, 946ml step 2 and 946ml step 3 are around the $5O AUD mark to buy. $16 bucks for step 3. very cheap but superb performance

follow step 2 with iron X to open the paint pores and restore some colour then step 3 to finish will really work wonders

Note: dedicate some mitts for step 1 and 3 and grout sponges or other type sponges for step 2 and make sure to rinse all out well
Step 2 will eat the foam in sponges if not rinsed out.


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## Mercury Detailing (Jan 26, 2011)

Makes for interesting reading.


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## GSiFan (Jan 6, 2011)

Very interesting but can you please not introduce any more products to us because my bank balance cannot cope! Going to *have* to get some FK1 now... :wall: :lol: 

Paul


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