# Gtechniq P2 - Jewelling polish



## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

Hello everybody,

Please help can You me with this? :

How harsh is Gtechniq P2?
Can i use it once a year in spring for paint cleaning (DAS6 Pro)? It won't take down, reduce the clear coat too much with a finishing or light polishing pad? (3M blue or 3M yellow or Menzerna yellow - DAS6 Pro) or should i use only something like SRP or Achilles prep. How harsh is P2 compared to Achilles prep or SRP or 3M blue utrafine or 3M yellow extra fine? I only wan't to use it to clean up the paint and very light swirls which i'm making with my own hand wash in one year. Is it safe in one car's lifetime (10-15 years) to polish it once every year with P2 or Achilles prep or SRP?
Thanks and sorry for the lot of questions


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

P2 is very VERY fine and perfect to just harden a finish with minimal removal


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## deegan1979 (Mar 6, 2012)

As above, and I find it a pleasure to use, no fuss and nicely lubed


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks for the replies

so it will be OK once a year without taking away, "compromising" the clear coat.
And how abrasive is P2 compared to Super resin polish or Achilles prep?
Thanks


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## Guru (Aug 28, 2013)

Don't know about Achilles bot P2 should be slightly milder than SRP and has less fillers too.


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## Dannbodge (Sep 26, 2010)

P2 is very oily too so you can work it for ages before it starts to dry


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks for all.

So it would be ideal to clean up the paint an slight hand wash induced marring once a year before applying Wolfs Hard Body?


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

Guru said:


> Don't know about Achilles bot P2 should be slightly milder than SRP and has less fillers too.


P2 doesn't contain any fillers. What you see is what you get


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

GeRoY said:


> Thanks for all.
> 
> So it would be ideal to clean up the paint an slight hand wash induced marring once a year before applying Wolfs Hard Body?


It'll be fine for what you want, just use a finishing pad


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

DJ X-Ray said:


> It'll be fine for what you want, just use a finishing pad


without compromising the clear coat for lets say 10 year?  Thx (readings are from 100-200 um)


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

That readings ok, but i don't think you'd need to polish it every year tbh.
Once you jewell it to the stage where you're happy with the finish, get it protected with a couple of coats of wax or a sealant/coating.
A lot of the time swirls occur during the wash process as you've noticed. The less contact you make the better. Although i do use drying towels, I usually use a hose to dry it


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

DJ X-Ray said:


> That readings ok, but i don't think you'd need to polish it every year tbh.
> Once you jewell it to the stage where you're happy with the finish, get it protected with a couple of coats of wax or a sealant/coating.
> A lot of the time swirls occur during the wash process as you've noticed. The less contact you make the better. Although i do use drying towels, I usually use a hose to dry it


I thought this is good once year only for paint cleansing purposes and clean up slight wash marrings...then if its not necessary what should i use before waxing or sealing Srp or achilles prep? Or only wash clay and wax or seal? Thanks


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

"I thought this is good once year only for paint cleansing purposes and clean up slight wash marrings...then if its not necessary what should i use before waxing or sealing Srp or achilles prep or Gtechniq P2 with DA 850W on finishing pad? Or only wash clay and wax or seal? Thanks "

(Pre-Wax cleanse with DA 850W on finishing pad or Gtechniq P2 *once a year* with DA 850W on finishing pad)? Which is more abrasive approach? I dont want to compromise the clear coat or take down from clear coat if it is unnecessary even if the readings are very healthy. I want to keep it at least 8-10 years.

Somebody?


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## SteveyG (Apr 1, 2007)

Dannbodge said:


> P2 is very oily too so you can work it for ages before it starts to dry


I must have a dodgy bottle as mine isn't oily at all and dries after a couple of passes.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

GeRoY said:


> "I thought this is good once year only for paint cleansing purposes and clean up slight wash marrings...then if its not necessary what should i use before waxing or sealing Srp or achilles prep or Gtechniq P2 with DA 850W on finishing pad? Or only wash clay and wax or seal? Thanks "
> 
> (Pre-Wax cleanse with DA 850W on finishing pad or Gtechniq P2 *once a year* with DA 850W on finishing pad)? Which is more abrasive approach? I dont want to compromise the clear coat or take down from clear coat if it is unnecessary even if the readings are very healthy. I want to keep it at least 8-10 years.
> 
> Somebody?


P2 on a finishing pad is not going to remove very much paint, a paint cleaner will remove even less paint. Whilst it is a good approach to try and keep as much paint on the car as possible the idea of polishing is to get the paint nice and shiny. I have not used Achilles Prep but my understanding is it is a bit like SRP. Both will remove a very small amount of paint and clean it as well. Therefore you may not need to use something before SRP or the VP.

It all comes down to what you want to do and the state of the paint. Nothing wrong with hiding swirls, likewise there is nothing wrong with removing them


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

lowejackson said:


> P2 on a finishing pad is not going to remove very much paint, a paint cleaner will remove even less paint. Whilst it is a good approach to try and keep as much paint on the car as possible the idea of polishing is to get the paint nice and shiny. I have not used Achilles Prep but my understanding is it is a bit like SRP. Both will remove a very small amount of paint and clean it as well. Therefore you may not need to use something before SRP or the VP.
> 
> It all comes down to what you want to do and the state of the paint. Nothing wrong with hiding swirls, likewise there is nothing wrong with removing them


Thank You. So as I understand, SuperResinPolish or Achilles prep or even Gtechniq P2 *once a Year is safe before waxing with collinite* and I wont remove or thin the clear coat to a dangerous thin layer for at least 10 years on my pride and joy? 
Thanks guys. And sorry for questions im :newbie:


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

GeRoY said:


> "I thought this is good once year only for paint cleansing purposes and clean up slight wash marrings...then if its not necessary what should i use before waxing or sealing Srp or achilles prep or Gtechniq P2 with DA 850W on finishing pad? Or only wash clay and wax or seal? Thanks "
> 
> (Pre-Wax cleanse with DA 850W on finishing pad or Gtechniq P2 *once a year* with DA 850W on finishing pad)? Which is more abrasive approach? I dont want to compromise the clear coat or take down from clear coat if it is unnecessary even if the readings are very healthy. I want to keep it at least 8-10 years.
> 
> Somebody?


You can do, i'm not saying don't. If it needs it go for it. 
A finishing polish and pad won't hardly touch your clear.
I'm just suggesting look at the wash process, thats usually where swirls occur :thumb:


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## Flakey (May 5, 2013)

Sounds like you need a paint cleaner like Dodo a Juice Lime Prime instead of the P2. Lovely oils as well so will work as a great base for the Collinite.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

GeRoY said:


> Thank You. So as I understand, SuperResinPolish or Achilles prep or even Gtechniq P2 *once a Year is safe before waxing with collinite* and I wont remove or thin the clear coat to a dangerous thin layer for at least 10 years on my pride and joy?......


You would need to do some serious wetsanding and compounding to reduce the paint to a dangerous level. There is a thread somewhere on here where someone measured the amount of paint removed by different products but I cannot find it. From memory a mild polish removed about 1 micron and wetsanding was about 15.

Lets say you have some minor swirls and they are about 0.25 microns in depth, you may need to remove 0.5 or maybe even 1 micron to get the paint looking great again. It is also worth considering that there are many on here who have polished their cars many times over the years and there is not a huge number of people complaining of paint failure. As I said earlier, it is good to keep as much paint on the car as possible and if you have very thin paint (eg 70 microns) then you would be mad to dig out the harsh sandpaper. It is all about doing what you feel comfortable but don't think that several passes with a compound is going to destroy your paint.

As DJ X-Ray said, swirls mainly come from washing so this is a great area to focus on to reduce the need for polishing. Using a product like SRP can be a great way of hiding swirls and topped with a wax should make the car look good, maybe an alternative option could be to consider one of these fancy coatings which would protect for paint for a very long time.


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

lowejackson said:


> You would need to do some serious wetsanding and compounding to reduce the paint to a dangerous level. There is a thread somewhere on here where someone measured the amount of paint removed by different products but I cannot find it. From memory a mild polish removed about 1 micron and wetsanding was about 15.
> 
> Lets say you have some minor swirls and they are about 0.25 microns in depth, you may need to remove 0.5 or maybe even 1 micron to get the paint looking great again. It is also worth considering that there are many on here who have polished their cars many times over the years and there is not a huge number of people complaining of paint failure. As I said earlier, it is good to keep as much paint on the car as possible and if you have very thin paint (eg 70 microns) then you would be mad to dig out the harsh sandpaper. It is all about doing what you feel comfortable but don't think that several passes with a compound is going to destroy your paint.
> 
> As DJ X-Ray said, swirls mainly come from washing so this is a great area to focus on to reduce the need for polishing. Using a product like SRP can be a great way of hiding swirls and topped with a wax should make the car look good, maybe an alternative option could be to consider one of these fancy coatings which would protect for paint for a very long time.


Thanks  and one last question...
If i want to wax with collinite lets say on spring, summer, and for winter, do i need to clay and cleanse the paint with SRP or Achilles prep every time before waxing even if i dont see and feel the need for it? 
Now i waxed for winter after stronger APC prewash, and handwash with APC and I didnt seen bonded contaminants on the paint, and i only waxed with colli476s without paint cleansing or claying. It was good or bad process? I was thinking it is not need for paint cleaning (with SRP or Achilles) and unecessary to take down from clear coat if its not needed. _But now i understand, that by hand or by machine with soft finishing pad with SRP or Achilles im not taking down from clear coat.
_
Thanks


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

GeRoY said:


> Thanks  and one last question...
> If i want to wax with collinite lets say on spring, summer, and for winter, do i need to clay and cleanse the paint with SRP or Achilles prep every time before waxing even if i dont see and feel the need for it?
> Now i waxed for winter after stronger APC prewash, and handwash with APC and I didnt seen bonded contaminants on the paint, and i only waxed with colli476s without paint cleansing or claying. It was good or bad process? I was thinking it is not need for paint cleaning (with SRP or Achilles) and unecessary to take down from clear coat if its not needed. _But now i understand, that by hand or by machine with soft finishing pad with SRP or Achilles im not taking down from clear coat.
> _
> Thanks


One of the nice things about this hobby is you can do as much or as little as you want. I would clay and use a paint cleaner two or three times a year before applying a wax like Collinite but it is really up to you. One test which can help decide if you need to clay is the 'baggie test' http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=207278


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

lowejackson said:


> One of the nice things about this hobby is you can do as much or as little as you want. I would clay and use a paint cleaner two or three times a year before applying a wax like Collinite but it is really up to you. One test which can help decide if you need to clay is the 'baggie test' http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=207278


Thanks mate, You helped me a lot


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## PaulinLincs (Jan 16, 2011)

stangalang said:


> P2 is very VERY fine and perfect to just harden a finish with minimal removal


How would P2 compare to Menz 4500 in the jeweling stakes ? Which one has the most cut.


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## gca3n (Apr 1, 2011)

GeRoY said:


> Thanks  and one last question...
> If i want to wax with collinite lets say on spring, summer, and for winter, do i need to clay and cleanse the paint with SRP or Achilles prep every time before waxing even if i dont see and feel the need for it?
> Now i waxed for winter after stronger APC prewash, and handwash with APC and I didnt seen bonded contaminants on the paint, and i only waxed with colli476s without paint cleansing or claying. It was good or bad process? I was thinking it is not need for paint cleaning (with SRP or Achilles) and unecessary to take down from clear coat if its not needed. _But now i understand, that by hand or by machine with soft finishing pad with SRP or Achilles im not taking down from clear coat.
> _
> Thanks


I love collinite but prior to applying I always do a full decontamination. Detar-remove iron contaminants- then clay. A coat of something like blacklight then your collinite. You'll notice a massive difference in not only how good it looks but also howling it lasts. You can easily get a yr out of collinite 476 when a good prep is done


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## GeRoY (Dec 29, 2010)

gca3n said:


> I love collinite but prior to applying I always do a full decontamination. Detar-remove iron contaminants- then clay. A coat of something like blacklight then your collinite. You'll notice a massive difference in not only how good it looks but also howling it lasts. You can easily get a yr out of collinite 476 when a good prep is done


thank you


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

PaulinLincs said:


> How would P2 compare to Menz 4500 in the jeweling stakes ? Which one has the most cut.


There is no competition, menz jumps all over it. P2 is no good for "jeweling", you can't run it fast enough, but as a finishing or hologram remover its superb, really will finish crystal on awkward paints. But if you wanna jewel, stick with menz, roberlo, 3m or 205


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