# Bilt Hamber Clay



## craigparker (Jan 21, 2007)

Hi all. 
Need some clay as my megs is no more. lol. 
Just wondering is the bilt hamber auto clay any good? 
It seems one of the more reasonably priced clay bars. I know it says use with water but I will use it with autobrite final touch aswell. 
Only thing is I dont have a machine polisher (yet). So will this cause any more damage to my paint?
Thanks
Craig


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2008)

I have bought some together with the shampoo and wax, going on a mates Mini which is abused, but I wont be using any QD since it says water only.

It does feel alot more solid than any other clay I have (sonus, cyc, megs) and you get ALOT more for your money (cut it into 1/4s).

But I wont be using mine till the end of the month am afraid.

If it does marr (doubt it but you never know) then follow with the bilt-hamber wax or srp should do it.


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## Alex L (Oct 25, 2005)

craigparker said:


> Hi all.
> Need some clay as my megs is no more. lol.
> Just wondering is the bilt hamber auto clay any good?
> It seems one of the more reasonably priced clay bars. I know it says use with water but I will use it with autobrite final touch aswell.
> ...


I dont know yet but I'll be finding out tomorrow :thumb:


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## craigparker (Jan 21, 2007)

Will you let me know if its any good please mate? Ill be ordering it next week probs.
I will be following it with SRP. And EGP probs.
Thanks for the replies.
Craig


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2008)

Use the search button and read about the Rolls Royce, seeing what bilt-hamber can do to that made me buy the pack.


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

A clay bar does not cause paint damage - at least not when used properly and as prescribed.
Wash the car, leave it wet, use the spray head on the hose, and keep the paintwork wet where you're using the clay.
Cut as above, into 1/3 - think 1/4 is a bit small - and if needed, put in warm tap water for a couple of minutes to soften it up.
Flatten enough to cover your all fingers from tip to joint at palm.
Get stuck in, and feel the bar bite on whatever contamination you've got on the paintwork.
Rewash, and dry - wax and stand back admiring your efforts. Even when just dried, you'll not believe the shine off your paintwork.

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=&t=428206


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## craigparker (Jan 21, 2007)

After youve used that 1/4, do you throw it away then or resculpt and reuse?? Ive used megs but never really understood how to use it correctly. Is water enough or should i use a lub aswell for extra?
Craig


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## Alex L (Oct 25, 2005)

Anything that touches the paint can damage it, even clay:










This is marring caused by an aggressive clay, (also worth checking out this thread for the dangers involved.

Ideally if attempting severe contaminant removal like that Impreza then it is very advisable to follow up with machine polish.


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## Alex L (Oct 25, 2005)

craigparker said:


> After youve used that 1/4, do you throw it away then or resculpt and reuse?? Ive used megs but never really understood how to use it correctly. Is water enough or should i use a lub aswell for extra?
> Craig


I personally would never just use water even if they recommend it, I'd always use a QD or clay lube..

Depending how dirty the clay is depends on how you choose to go.

I'd clay the paint work, then clay all the glass, then put it aside (in a bag if it isnt too dirty) and save it for when I was taking the wheels off and use it for fully cleaning them.


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## craigparker (Jan 21, 2007)

Thanks for all the advice. I think I will get some of this next week. Defo gonna use autobrite final touch as lube though. I will have to start saving for a G220 though just incase. lol. 
Thanks again
Craig


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

Yep, plenty of life left yet for bug removal, wheel crud, etc.
Don't disagree you can damage paintwork with claying, but you REALLY need to be going at it some to do so.
As you know I'm very fond of the Bilt Hamber stuff, and I ONLY use water with the bar, and it works just fine.
The main USP of the Auto Clay is that you can dispense with an added extra cost in the form of a QD or specific lube, and just use ordinary tap water, which saves running out midway through, or keeps the QD for its intended purpose.
Just don't go using the ad hoc mixture of shampoo and water you've used/made do with on other bars.


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2008)

Sorry, but if the maker of the product advises you not to use a lube, why would you?

I wouldnt use the clay with lube without checking with bilt-hamber first, after all its designed to be used with water not lube.


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## Alex L (Oct 25, 2005)

PJS said:


> Don't disagree you can damage paintwork with claying, but you REALLY need to be going at it some to do so


You've not used Megs aggressive clay or Sonus grey, that picture above is from Sonus grey iirc and I can assure that Rob/James knows what they're doing with clay.



matt1263 said:


> Sorry, but if the maker of the product advises you not to use a lube, why would you?
> 
> I wouldnt use the clay with lube without checking with bilt-hamber first, after all its designed to be used with water not lube.


To reduce the risk of any additional chances of damaging the paint.


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2008)

But what if the lube attacks the clay, a bit like when you use to much shampoo as a lube?

I have sent an email to bilt-hamber to confirm if its safe to use with a lube or if the lube will make the clay crumble.

After all, it wouldnt be nice for the clay to crumble and marr half way thru a car would it?

I have used megs white and found that marred a mates honda VERY easily.


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## Alex L (Oct 25, 2005)

I wont know till I try tomorrow, but should imagine it'll be fine as iirc theres only one company (maybe 2) that makes all the clays so they're all going to be very similar (about from aggressive and not so aggressive versions)


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## Guest (Mar 4, 2008)

Yeah I read that about the clay as well, but b-h isnt your normal clay is it.

after all, if you make a clay that dosnt need a specific lube you will lose sales if you make a lube wont you.

But will be watching with intrest since I am going to be using it too very soon.

(hope you get where I am coming from with being careful and following the makers guides)


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

The formulation of our Bilt-Hamber auto-clay makes it very resistant to shampoos and QD lubes. So it'll be happy to be used with pretty much any lube you like. However any surface tension reducing surfactant will allow the surface to be wet at much lower film thickness - which means there's less of a lubricating interface between the clay and paint. 

Our clay bar uses very very fine soft minerals bound in a high grade polymer, it's also intentionally hydrophobic, it'll skim quite happily on just water, just make sure you keep the panel wet - no need to skimp as the water's free:thumb: 

For clarity's sake - we make our own clay.


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## Alex L (Oct 25, 2005)

bilt-hamber kid said:


> The formulation of our Bilt-Hamber auto-clay makes it very resistant to shampoos and QD lubes. So it'll be happy to be used with pretty much any lube you like. However any surface tension reducing surfactant will allow the surface to be wet at much lower film thickness - which means there's less of a lubricating interface between the clay and paint.
> 
> Our clay bar uses very very fine soft minerals bound in a high grade polymer, it's also intentionally hydrophobic, it'll skim quite happily on just water, just make sure you keep the panel wet - no need to skimp as the water's free:thumb: *only when it rains   *
> 
> For clarity's sake - we make our own clay.


Just used it with AS re-glaze and no problems* :thumb: :thumb:

*although I clayed the car when I first got it about 8 months ago and used Megs aggressive clay which left loads of marring (that I've been to busy/lazy to sort out).


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## slapshot (Jul 29, 2007)

I can imagine using distilled water with Bilt-Hamber clay, but tap water? There's loads of scratchy calcium deposits left when my tap water dries on a car. Surely these minerals can mar the paint when rubbing?


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## Guest (Mar 4, 2008)

Anything in the tap water will be picked up with the clay and then removed with whatever you use next (compound, paint cleaner etc)

Thanks to bilt-hamber coming on and just confirming a few things, means I will use a 50/50 of LT on some panels and just water on others to see what does what.


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## EliteCarCare (Aug 25, 2006)

I've used BH Autoclay a number of times, as long as you apply plenty of water to lube the surface you'll be fine... :thumb:


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

Temporary hardness in the form of calcium and magnesium carbonate/bicarbonates is at a controlled level of around 300mg / litre in UK drinking water (mg = 1000th / gram) The area being clayed should stay wet thus the water-bourne hardess will be harmless. Even deposited molecule by molecule under evaporation the fineness of the minerals will be less abrasive than Mrs Doubtfire.


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## rockape (Feb 18, 2007)

bh was the first clay i used. it's an excellent clay and works well with just plain water. great results, and left no marring or any other marks. top stuff imho :thumb:


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

Glad you liked it amigo, and good to see the boys being recognised eh?

http://www.raf.mod.uk/rafregiment/events/rafregtcplreceivesmc.cfm

Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE): Sqn Ldr J Sutton *- 1 Sqn RAF Regt
Military Cross (MC): Cpl Hayden - 1 Sqn RAF Regt
Mention in Dispatches (MiD): SAC Wharton - 1 Sqn RAF Regt
Queen's Commendation for Bravery (QCB): Sgt Bainbridge - 1 Sqn RAF Regt
Queen's Commendation for Bravery (QCB): SAC Stinson - 1 Sqn RAF Regt 
Queen's Commendation for Valuable Service (QCVS): Gp Capt Burt (CO 903 EAW, now RCDS)
Queen's Commendation for Valuable Service (QCVS): WO Hargreaves (WO 903 EAW, now Trg Wg)

Flt Lt Michelle Goodman DFC _infinitely _better looking than Cpl David Hayden MC


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## Guest (Mar 15, 2008)

He looks in with a chance :thumb:


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

She fills that flying suit well doesn't she? They weren't like that in my day. 

In all seriousness; Michelle's rep is second to none and she flew her Merlin in at night, over enemy held ground and at roof top level over houses from which they were engaging her, and on Night Vision Aids as well, to collect her casualty. Forget your PS3 - she (and her crew) did it for real. A top bird and completely deserving of her award. :thumb:


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## Guest (Mar 15, 2008)

REME myself, and the lumpy jumpers did a much better job of making them, erm, lumpy.


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## Russ and his BM (Jan 1, 2008)

Aye, good to see these guys and girls getting recognised. What's your connection with the services the BH-kid? Do you know some of the lads at Honington? 
PM me if you want. (I can't PM you as I only have a few posts) Next time I order some stuff (I already have your clay, wash and degreaser - all excellent products btw) can I be cheeky and ask for a mil discount?

Cheers chum,
Russ(wokka mate)


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

Hi Russ,

Minimal contact with H thank god. I was more a 'C' man. 

Me (on left) with Pete in Bosnia doing TACP.









I was never a Wokka mate, but I did do a couple of Rockery flying sqn tours. Once, Harriers and then as a Puma mate, just before they moved to Benson and for a year so afterwards. With regards to a discount, I suppose if you're in date CCS we can arrange summat. Tell you what, phone us when you want to order (01277 658899) and if you mention this thread and can decipher that lot (above) to a nonplussed Pete, I'll give you free carriage. Hows that?

In the meantime, all the best, stay safe and keep up the good work Russ.

Per Ardua.

PS:

This from Hansard last week might make you smile. Wokka mates from as little as 5 or 6 weeks a year sandy side eh?

<<*LIAM FOX (Con, Woodspring)

To ask the Secretary of State for Defence what the average unit tour interval was for each (a) aircraft and (b) helicopter crew type in the Royal Air Force in the latest period for which figures are available.

BOB AINSWORTH (Minister of State (Armed Forces), Ministry of Defence)
The following table provides the latest average tour intervals between deployments for the crews of the aircraft and helicopter types specified. It should be noted that there may be variances for individual crew members.

Weeks

Average crew tour interval
Aircraft type
Tornado GR4
52
Harrier
40
Tristar
21
VC10
12
C130
10
Nimrod Rl
10
Nimrod MR2
35
BAe 125
10

Helicopter type
Chinook
32
Puma
32
Merlin
32

Tour lengths for crew on different aircraft/helicopter types vary from three to 12 weeks.*>>


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## little john (Jun 10, 2007)

Im looking at trying an alternative to the QD and smooth surface clay, I did my sisters car at the weekend and saw a horible pattery on the surface after claying and washing. Good job I was going over witht he G220 and #80 which removed it.

This Bilt Hamber may be an option I was looking at Sonus green.


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## Blazebro (May 18, 2007)

Impressed by the comments, therefore I've taken the plunge and ordered some from Elite Car Care :wink:

Any hints or tips would be appreciated as well as anything I should look out for?

Does dipping the clay in warm water do anything else other than soften it, such as remove any contaminates from the bar?


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

In my experience, the warm water approach is one thats well worth taking Blaze, because as I mentioned earlier, although the bar is quite soft and gentle in terms of abrasive qualities, it can be quite unyielding to the touch, especially when cold. That will be where the benefit comes into play. Another point worth making is that because we sell the bar in such a large size (200 g), you should dissect it into 3.. possibly 4 pieces. That will make it easier to mould and the other benefit is that if you do drop it onto an unclean or gritty surface, you're only going to have to throw away one third of the piece, and not the entire amount. So it'll save you money and heartache (nowt worse than having to stop a job half way through).

I hope that helps. If you need any advice at all, please don't hesitate to call.


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## bilt-hamber kid (Dec 4, 2007)

little john said:


> Im looking at trying an alternative to the QD and smooth surface clay, I did my sisters car at the weekend and saw a horible pattery on the surface after claying and washing. Good job I was going over witht he G220 and #80 which removed it.
> 
> This Bilt Hamber may be an option I was looking at Sonus green.


Always happy to advise on suitability LJ. Either give us a call (01277 658899) to chat about it and ask for Pete or buy online or through one of the traders in the shop area here.:thumb:


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## Russ and his BM (Jan 1, 2008)

BHK, thanks chum, free postage will do me just fine (I'm always in date CCS ) Ref the tour length - hmmm, second question, how many of those per year? (At least 2, sometimes 3!) 

Ah, all good fun, and good for savings to spend on detailing products!

Cheers.


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## Blazebro (May 18, 2007)

Taken delivery of this. after reading the guidelines and having a good think, I've decided how I'll use it:

I think I'll dry the car as normal, using a Sonus towel, I find this alone does remove some of the ground in particulates.

I'll then use Filtered water using a hand held spray bottle. As this removes the hardness from the water I thnk this can only help. How does this sound?


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

More work than is required.
The mineral content of the water makes no difference whatsoever until the final rinse, which given you'll be rewashing the car after using the Clay, is fine for then.
No point drying either - leave it wet, as you use the sprayer on the end of your hose to keep panels and the Clay wet.


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