# What to use underseal/stonechip



## Sp3no (Jan 4, 2009)

I am wanting to stonechip and underseal the underside of my Focus. Everything is stripped off, sub frame tank etc and the underside has been cleaned. Im planning on treating any surface rust which there is almost non with a wire brush attachment on the drill and etch primer over the top but.......... What is the best black underseal/Stone chip. I only want to use one product really and i dont have a compressor. I like the look of the standard underseal but i assume this is applied with a compressor
Thanks


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## Bratwurst (Jan 23, 2009)

I use Autosmart's underseal on the Mini and it works well. Aerosol so it's dead easy too. Got it from a rep, and wasn't dear either, so I got well stocked-up. Can't remember the exact price, but it may have been 3, 4, or 5 quid. How's that for vague. :lol:


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## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

Shame you dont have a compressor, Dinitrol is the best stuff there is. 

I dont think you could go too wrong with underseal with added Waxoil or even just normal tetrosyl stonechip coated with a layer of waxoil after that?


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## Sp3no (Jan 4, 2009)

I did see that Hammerite Underseal with added Waxoil, i thought i would be a bit of a pony product as its from Halfrauds but i shall give it a chance then if it comes reccomended. Which primer is best for bare metal before i underseal?


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## slrestoration (Nov 11, 2009)

Go for the tetrosyl!!!


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## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

Sp3no said:


> I did see that Hammerite Underseal with added Waxoil, i thought i would be a bit of a pony product as its from Halfrauds but i shall give it a chance then if it comes reccomended. Which primer is best for bare metal before i underseal?


Any bare metal should be etch primered over then you want some paint then go and seal it with what ever you choose.


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## kash (Jan 30, 2009)

sorry to bump this topic, but ive just used removed some rust on the underside of my wheel well.....Will be priming it in red oxide primer. As for underseal, i have tub of this in my garage;










Used it on my old car, but is it any good?

Or should i use stonechip instead?


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

that ^ stuff is pretty good at sealing the metalwork , goes on nicer with some heat 

trouble is it doesnt look that nice


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## kash (Jan 30, 2009)

steveo3002 said:


> that ^ stuff is pretty good at sealing the metalwork , goes on nicer with some heat
> 
> trouble is it doesnt look that nice


agree looks tbh like road tar, what would you use for the wheel well? I was thinking black stone chip?










that stuff?

sooo many products to choose from!!


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## TomV6 (Feb 16, 2010)

steveo3002 said:


> that ^ stuff is pretty good at sealing the metalwork , goes on nicer with some heat
> 
> trouble is it doesnt look that nice


I've just used this on the rear wheel wells of a friends Impreza WRX (2006).. went on a treat. Obviously I can't tell you how long it will last though, sorry; but being Hammerite- I have faith in it.


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=405024&p_n=405024

that goes on smooth and thick and does a very good job


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

kash said:


> sorry to bump this topic, but ive just used removed some rust on the underside of my wheel well.....Will be priming it in red oxide primer. As for underseal, i have tub of this in my garage;
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That ^^ is quite a decent product, but as said doesn't look especially pretty and always remains very slightly tacky (it's supposed to), so will attract dirt/dust etc. and you can't really clean it (because of the remaining tackiness).



kash said:


> agree looks tbh like road tar, what would you use for the wheel well? I was thinking black stone chip?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That ^^ doesn't dry tacky and can either be left or overpainted, but doesn't have any waxoyl content like the top one does.


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## Shug (Jul 13, 2007)

I have a pathological hatred of waxoyl, just so you know I'm biased! (besides, it doesnt get good press from some classic car folks who find their car that had it applied years ago is now horrifically rotten...)
On my manta I put on a couple coats of stone chip, then dinitrol 4941 (http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail....rostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Dinitrol&subCatID=35). You could brush it on but it'll be a lot better with a schutz gun and compressor. Isn't tacky like waxoyl (which makes a horrific mess of everything it gets into contact with) but neither does it dry solid like paint.


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Shug said:


> I have a pathological hatred of waxoyl, just so you know I'm biased! (*besides, it doesnt get good press from some classic car folks who find their car that had it applied years ago is now horrifically rotten..*.)
> On my manta I put on a couple coats of stone chip, then dinitrol 4941 (http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail....rostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Dinitrol&subCatID=35). You could brush it on but it'll be a lot better with a schutz gun and compressor. Isn't tacky like waxoyl (which makes a horrific mess of everything it gets into contact with) but neither does it dry solid like paint.


Hmmm...funny that as I've just been removing some from my 21 year old car and found areas that look like they came out of the factory yesterday. In fact during my current complete strip of the underside I've not found one tiny bit of rust anywhere.

IMO a lot of the 'stories' (term used carefully there ) are down to incorrect application and user error. Plus the usual of people who've never used it, reading said 'stories' on 'tinterweb' and then spouting it on other sites like here as if they've experience of it (not you, but some folks I know on here do that .


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## dsolds (Feb 13, 2008)

Viper said:


> IMO a lot of the 'stories' (term used carefully there ) are down to incorrect application and user error.


Yep, I'm a Land Rover nut and I've seen plenty of Wayoyled Defenders. Those done properly are fine and those which aren't are as rotten as Landy's can get.

For the record, Waxoyl cannot be applied successfully without a very good compressor, the right temperature, a decent base (waxoyl applied to rust will only delay its onslaught) and plenty of experience. A quick blow over which is not 100% thorough will allow water to get in. If it's too cold when done it never sticks or flows properly etc.

But, done right, it's the business. :thumb:


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

dsolds said:


> Yep, I'm a Land Rover nut and I've seen plenty of Wayoyled Defenders. Those done properly are fine and those which aren't are as rotten as Landy's can get.
> 
> For the record, Waxoyl cannot be applied successfully without a very good compressor, the right temperature, a decent base (waxoyl applied to rust will only delay its onslaught) and plenty of experience. A quick blow over which is not 100% thorough will allow water to get in. If it's too cold when done it never sticks or flows properly etc.
> 
> But, done right, it's the business. :thumb:


Makes complete sense :thumb: My car was done immediately after delivery by the first owner who employed a professional outfit to do it, so it went in every nook and crevice (the original owner of my car was obsessive about looking after it in terms of mechanical maintenance that make me blush when looking through the old paperwork of what he did, but that's another story). Suffice to say, as I mentioned before, as I've now removed it all as part of my show prep, the dividends of this are startling, and believe me I've seen some rotton XR2s in my time.

Another success story of waxoyl, (which I've mentioned on here before, so won't go into chapter & verse this time), is my Dad's Sierra he bought new in 1987 and again, had professionally waxoyled. 10 years and about 70k later of all weather daily driving and there wasn't a spot of rust on it. All the chassis components and underside were, of course, dirty but under that dirt the waxoyl coating was still very slightly tacky and underneath was as new. There are other examples I could talk about, but the story is the same for all of them.

As you say; half hearted DIY jobs that aren't 100% thorough get this product a bad rep, and the current 'darlings' in this product sector, will only prove to be the same if they aren't used correctly.


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