# Underside Project



## Feeder (Nov 25, 2006)

Hoping to get some thoughts on my MX-5's underside which I'm due to start work on.

The plan so far is to metal brush/machine brush off all of the rust from the underside. It's what to then put on after I'm struggling with. Bilt Hamber seems to be one of the few options.

Would I be right in thinking that if I applied Hydrate 80 to previously rusty areas, I could then add EPoxy Mastic after? Or would a coat of electrox be needed in between?

I have also been looking at 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-U-pol..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item19d4501f24

It's not something I've really looked in to before. I thought waxoyl was the stuff to use till I started doing my reading!

I am open to suggestions on other products as well! I've been looking at Dinitrol and Gravitex, but tbh the amount of choice is crazy.

The benefit of Dinitrol and Gravitex is that they are significantly cheapers than Bilt Hamber.

I'm just looking for a something that'll be resistant and stand upto to scottish weather.

Any help or suggestions on this would be very very much appreciated.


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## EliteCarCare (Aug 25, 2006)

Hydrate 80 then Dynax UB or UC over the top would be fine. Dynax S50 has the advantage of being a sprayable wax that you can pump into the cavities and areas where drainage occurs. Much easier and less messy than Waxoyl.


Alex


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

I am sure I remember Bilt Hamber saying that epoxy then the underbody wax would give you bullet proof protection but my guess is this is not a five minute job


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## Feeder (Nov 25, 2006)

Cheers chaps. The feedback is appreciated.

Yeah expecting this to take a while to sort out, but it's a second car so no rush for it to be on the road.


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## robtech (Jan 17, 2011)

hi dude,how you getting on with this? i too have started the restoration on the floor pan of the golf....next time your passing pop by as am sure i can share some good tips that will save you time and money.cheers.stu


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

robtech said:


> hi dude,how you getting on with this? i too have started the restoration on the floor pan of the golf....next time your passing pop by as am sure i can share some good tips that will save you time and money.cheers.stu


How long does it take to do this mate? Something I've been thinking about doing as I drive a lot in mud atm

cheers


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## Teddy (Dec 15, 2007)

Did my boot floor with Upol Gravitex. Then brushed over it with silver Hammerite. For about £10 it cant be ignored. As ever, thin coats are best for a decent finish. I got a bit carried away but it's still a half decent look.


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## talisman (Nov 20, 2006)

Teddy said:


> Did my boot floor with Upol Gravitex. Then brushed over it with silver Hammerite. For about £10 it cant be ignored. As ever, thin coats are best for a decent finish. I got a bit carried away but it's still a half decent look.


Any more pictures of this, looks fantastic.....


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## Teddy (Dec 15, 2007)

Well this is under the bonnet...










and this is underneath


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## TopSport+ (Jul 22, 2012)

Mate...
Awesome:doublesho
lots of work in this project:thumb:


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Very impressive work


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## zippo (Mar 26, 2008)

Jesus Teddy I'd bet it didn't look as good as that when it came from the dealers :argie:.How long has that taken you 

Daz


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## Split-Lee (Jan 3, 2012)

That is amazing Teddy!


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## Mik93 (Dec 17, 2012)

Nice work.

In answer to the OP, I've spent the last year and a half sorting the underside of my 306 Rallye. It is a time-consuming process.

Yes, the choice of products is huge, I ended up with Bilt Hamber products which I find excellent. Zinc primer is a proven method of providing cathodic corrosion protection, and have a similar effect to zinc galvanising. Zinc primers are better than rust converters (mostly phosphoric acid to convert rust to an innocuous substance), which are limited in their effectiveness and work best on isolated rust spots. In any case you need to wire brush (or chisel if necessary) most of the rust off, then to get the rest use a rust remover such as Bilt Hamber Deox Gel (up to 4 thick applications under cling film and leave for 2-3 datys a time) so you have got clean metal with only the odd staining or rust remnants (zinc-rich primers can cope with some rust, but need a clean surface to react against). Then overcoat with 2 coats of Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc primer, then with body colour enamel, doesn't matter what sort of paint as long as it is good quality, and finally B-H Dynax UC clear wax, with S50 wax in the box sections. My paint looks as bright and clean as it did when I finished it. 

I would not use Hydrate 80 unless a small area for a shorter term repair - definitely not on large areas I don't want to be doing again in a hurry. There is a thread on here somewhere - a bloke used Hydrate 80 on his caliper carriers and Electrox on the calipers themselves. After a year the Electrox was flawless, but the H80 was showing signs of stuff coming through. 

After spending hours and hours removing surface rust, I don't want to be doing it again next year!


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## ted11 (Jul 8, 2011)

Fantastic work, well done.


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