# Are all waxes miserable to apply?



## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

Washed and thoroughly sorted car at the weekend. I've got a 3/4 tub of Autosmart wax left over. Began to apply to bonnet in the thinnest layers you can imagine.

Minutes later it's hazed and cured.

Attempting to remove it is a nightmare. It drags with a dry MF cloth and creates yellow power residue which falls and lands on everything.

I have a tub of BH DSW. So far waxes are putting me off using them. Is the autosmart wax for machine application only or something? Is DSW a lot easier to work with??

Am I doing something wrong with the product??

Used a cut up piece of sponge to apply, worked nicely.


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## Mcpx (Mar 15, 2016)

My go to wax is Collinite 845 for toughness and longevity with a pretty kick ass shine to boot and it is simplicity itself to use. Even though it is actually a liquid wax it does tend to solidify so has to be warmed a little to get it back to a liquid but once you’ve done that it is just as easy as Mr Miyagi says. 

On top of that recently I’ve got hold of some OCD Nebula, which is even glossier, albeit not so robust, but that too is easy on easy off. I think wax development has come a long way from the old school carnuba heavy paste waxes of the past. I also have an old tin of the gold Simoniz paste wax and although it is brilliant stuff, it really is hard work like you say. Give dsw a try and see and you may be pleasantly surprised, there is still something beautiful about about the depth a decent wax gives to a finish, especially when it is layered.


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## TGi (Oct 15, 2012)

I have found the smoother you can get the pain the easier the wax will be to take off also the thinner you apply it the better.


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## PaulinLincs (Jan 16, 2011)

Any wax on my nissan is a pain to remove but easy to remove on my ford could different paints have a bearing ?


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## voon (Apr 28, 2010)

Usually, if it's hard to remove, you had put on too much. Waxes etc really go on in a layer thickness you can hardly see on the car. They all need a bit of buffing after curing, it won't go of my simply dragging a cloth over them usually, but it shouldn't be a "nightmare". 

On properly prepared paints (cleaned, polished etc) there shouldn't be much of a difference between cars?


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

ollienoclue said:


> Washed and thoroughly sorted car at the weekend. I've got a 3/4 tub of Autosmart wax left over. Began to apply to bonnet in the thinnest layers you can imagine.
> 
> Minutes later it's hazed and cured.
> 
> ...


Not used the Autosmart wax, but looking to get a tin of the DSW as lots of reviews on here rate it and say it's easy to apply / remove.

I've used AG HD wax and been very pleased with it - simple to apply and remove, also got someAuto Allure Reflex wax, which is very easy to use - can get a bit grabby if left to cure too long, but no residue left.

Recently got some Alien 51, which unfortunately not had chance to use yet, but feels a very nice wax...

I'd crack open your tin of DSW and try it


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## Mikej857 (Jan 17, 2012)

I had the exact same experience with auto smart wax to the point I have up after a couple of panels

This was a few years ago now and most wax manufacturers have come a long way with there blends to the point most you'll purchase these days are an absolute pleasure to use and take no effort at all to apply or buff off 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

ollienoclue said:


> Washed and thoroughly sorted car at the weekend. I've got a 3/4 tub of Autosmart wax left over. Began to apply to bonnet in the thinnest layers you can imagine.
> 
> Minutes later it's hazed and cured.
> 
> ...


First of all, I would get yourself a foam and velcro "puck"...

http://www.seriousperformance.co.uk/Products,65,toView_987.html

...and a few finishing spot pads:

http://www.seriousperformance.co.uk/Products,125,toView_294.html

I find this pairing helps me get a much thinner and more even layer of product on the panel, all while using less product overall.

DSW is pretty straightforward to use - the two no-nos are a) applying too much and b) leaving it too long.

If you apply a layer such that you can barely see it, and buff it off after five minutes, you'll not have any problems.


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## euge07 (Jan 15, 2011)

ollienoclue said:


> Washed and thoroughly sorted car at the weekend. I've got a 3/4 tub of Autosmart wax left over. Began to apply to bonnet in the thinnest layers you can imagine.
> 
> Minutes later it's hazed and cured.
> 
> ...


I would use a proper applicator pad and damp it slightly:thumb:

some waxes can be harder to remove but never a nightmare, a light layer and do the finger swipe test to check if its ready for removal, also I find different cloths will effect removal, what cloths are you using?


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## chongo (Jun 7, 2014)

Not used the AS wax but if you have BH DSW then definitely use that. Used it many times on different paints with no problems at all and with great protection and gloss it's a winner:wave:


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## Mikesphotaes (Jul 24, 2016)

I have tried all different times of curing my DSW, so far it still takes a wee bit effort.

The only one I have tried that is easy to polish off is Infinity Wax Dark.


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

Two waxes that you absolutely cannot go wrong with are Britemax Vantage and Finish Kare #2685. Both utterly simple to apply and remove - and both also leave a really nice "wet" finish.


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## Berylburton (Sep 14, 2013)

steelghost said:


> Two waxes that you absolutely cannot go wrong with are Britemax Vantage and Finish Kare #2685. Both utterly simple to apply and remove - and both also leave a really nice "wet" finish.


add to that FK1000p. Also the Dodo juice products are easy to remove as well.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

steelghost said:


> Two waxes that you absolutely cannot go wrong with are Britemax Vantage and Finish Kare #2685. Both utterly simple to apply and remove - and both also leave a really nice "wet" finish.


Which one is more durable?


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

sm81 said:


> Which one is more durable?


Neither is especially durable, around 3 months in typical UK conditions I would guess, I've never "destruction tested" either product. I've just put two coats of Vantage on the bonnet so I'll see how that goes on. It will get QD top ups after washing though, so it's not a completely straight test.

They are both so easy to apply (I'd say the FK wax edges it for me though) that adding another layer is straightforward enough, if you can get the car clean of course.

In a Finnish winter, I'd estimate them both to last about a fortnight


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

sm81 said:


> Which one is more durable?


Neither are overly durable Sm81. Likely around 2-3 months from both I'd guess.


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## scooobydont (Feb 25, 2017)

steelghost said:


> First of all, I would get yourself a foam and velcro "puck"...
> 
> http://www.seriousperformance.co.uk/Products,65,toView_987.html
> 
> ...


Are those spot pads for removing wax with a DA?

Just like the OP I find issues removing wax, if I could use my DA, that would be awesome (and lazy ).


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

scooobydont said:


> Are those spot pads for removing wax with a DA?
> 
> Just like the OP I find issues removing wax, if I could use my DA, that would be awesome (and lazy ).


In theory you *could* do this, however you'd run the risk of dry buffing the paint with particles of cured wax, and whilst that probably wouldn't be utterly disastrous, it certainly isn't going to help the finish much 

Difficulties buffing off wax usually indicates any of a) you used too much or b) you left it for too long or possibly c) both of the above! So always worth trying a different curing time, and trying to get the layer thinner - it's getting that really, really thin layer that I've personally found the puck + finishing pad combo really helps with.

If buffing off wax that I'm happy has been applied thinly I like to use a fairly plush towel, however for more challenging LSPs that need a little (or a lot) more _oomph _to remove, go for something with a shorter pile. If you _really_ have to, only fold it once, meaning less cushioning (but hence better force transmission) between your hand and the panel.

You can also use a QD (ideally a thinner, lighter one, eg Finish Kare FK425, Meguiars Last Touch, some suitably diluted ONR, etc) to lubricate your towel as it moves over the uncured wax, which can assist in really stubborn cases.


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## Andy from Sandy (May 6, 2011)

The temperature where I am dropped by a good 5C. I suspect that will have made quite a difference to the behaviour of a wax.

Warming up again so it will make it easier to apply and buff.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

steelghost said:


> First of all, I would get yourself a foam and velcro "puck"...
> 
> http://www.seriousperformance.co.uk/Products,65,toView_987.html
> 
> ...


Just stuck an order in for 8 of those finishing pads. At £2.50 a piece thought I would stock up. :thumb:


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## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

The Farecla waffle pads are really good for picking up and applying the tiniest amount of product.

White firm one for polish and black soft one for wax.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/ca...hes-buckets/farecla-g3-applicator-waffle-pads


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

The white one also works well for paint cleaners, according to our own Lowiepete


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## scooobydont (Feb 25, 2017)

I guess it would be better if the paste wax was warmed up somehow to allow it to spread easier?

I maybe guilty of applying to much as all the waxes I try are tough to buff off. I do use BH cleanser fluid before hand (not all the time mind you).


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## Titanium Htail (Mar 24, 2012)

I apply my FK1000p just using my hand, the thinnest application process possible, half a pea size or less melted in your hand rubbed on the car.

John Tht.


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## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

Hmm, well I didn't think I had much product on, maybe it was too thick. It was definitely cooler last weekend. I am beginning to think the product is just an old fashioned one, I've a tub of DSW Ill give a go.

Might buy a little waffle puck thing to try.

I am using cheapo Mf clothes straight off Amazon. I have a stock of them, if they get too grubby I bin them.


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## Big Bri (Nov 20, 2010)

The only times i had residue as you described. I either used to much product or it was because it was baked on by sunlight,applicator and cloth also where a factor..Both i learned are NO NO when waxing.I havent used the product you mention,so can only think when i had similar results. My mate said your not putting sun tan cream on it big lad.Small amounts,small areas.He then said some words that have cost me ££££ and more time than anyone normal would give up.
CLAY BAR.
The O.C.D. Kicked in and i was away With the curiosity of a Bangkok MonKey.
Prep is key and the waxing is and should be a nice bronzed sun tan.Wax on,Wax off,or use the force.Red wine works well before,during and after all stages.Which have been known to go on for weeks.
If at first you dont succeed,try,try again.Dont give up.
BTW,my mate washes DUSTBIN WAGONS.

BB


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## Sleper (May 27, 2015)

Not sure how easy it would be for you to get but Zaino works wonders goes on easy and comes off like a breeze. Lasts for months.


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## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

One thing that I have learned to do when using paste wax products is to have a spray bottle of clean water to hand, with the spray nozzle set to the very lightest mist.

Then if it starts to drag when applying, a quick light spritz sorts it out and also helps push the wax out further and thinner. I got the idea from using the recommended damp applicator with Autoglym HD wax



Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


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## Big Bri (Nov 20, 2010)

GleemSpray said:


> One thing that I have learned to do when using paste wax products is to have a spray bottle of clean water to hand, with the spray nozzle set to the very lightest mist.
> 
> Then if it starts to drag when applying, a quick light spritz sorts it out and also helps push the wax out further and thinner. I got the idea from using the recommended damp applicator with Autoglym HD wax
> 
> Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


I was gona say used AGs HD Wax .Great minds.

BB


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## euge07 (Jan 15, 2011)

I reckon your cheap amazon mf cloths are the issue, kirkland yellow microfibre clothes available from in2detailing are really good for removal of wax and are not expensive atal. great value for money


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

Whilst not all cheap MF towels are terrible, the quality can be hit and miss (and the bad stuff is pretty terrible!)

Worth investing in some good quality towels for buffing duties; in2detailing, Ragmaster, Paragon Microfibre, Serious Performance, Polished Bliss, plus I'm sure other suppliers I've missed all have some cracking cloths. Your Amazon ones are still handy for all sorts of other less critical jobs.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

I would like to test those paragon ones but there are none in eBay.


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

sm81 said:


> I would like to test those paragon ones but there are none in eBay.


Can buy direct from themselves or via Amazon...


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