# How to clean your foam pad on the fly



## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

*How to clean your foam pad on the fly*

When using a dual action polisher to remove below surface defects with any type of abrasive product you're going to have two things building up on the face of the foam pad that you need to clean off.

*Spent residue* - From the product you're using.
*Paint *- Small particles of paint that are coming off the car as you abrade the surface
If you're working on a clear coat finish then keep in mind you won't see the paint residue building up on the pad because the clear coat paint is clear. :idea:

_Make sense? _

If you're working on a clearcoat finish, all you're going to see is the color of the product that you're using. For example if you're using a white colored polish you'll see white residue building-up on the pad.

Now if you're working on as single stage paint then you'll see the color of the paint on the car on the face of your foam pad,. For example if you're working on a single stage yellow paint system then you'll see yellow paint on the face of your foam pad.

The important thing to understand is that as you work on the car with your polisher you're going to be removing a little paint and there's going to be used-up product *and paint* building-up on the face of the foam pad. It's important to clean this gunk off your pad *often*.

So the question is, how to you clean this gunk off the pad?

The answer is there's a number of ways to clean your foam pad, the three most common are,

Pad Washer
Nylon Brush or Pad Cleaning Brush
Terry Cloth Towel
Out of the 3 options listed above, cleaning your pad on the fly is probably the *most popular* because it's fast, and most people have a terry cloth towel in the linen closet that they can use to clean the pad.

The *best* way to clean a pad is with a pad washer but before you can use a pad washer you must first own one. Pad washers are worth their weight in gold if you buff cars out with any kind of regularity. If however you're just buffing out your own personal cars, then chances are you don't own a pad washer but chances are very good you do own a terry cloth towel or two that you can use to clean your pads on the fly.

Brushes work good if you're using a rotary buffer but the only way you can use one with DA Polisher is to turn the polisher off, hold the polisher and pad in such a way that the pad won't spin and then rub the brush over the face of the pad to scrape off the residue.

While this works, it means turning the polisher off, (now you're not buffing out the car, remember the _time_ issue?) and grabbing your brush and then brushing the pad. Nothing wrong with this but when you consider how long it already takes to do the cleaning step, (about 4-6 hours for an average size car and that's if your good at this *and* if you work fast and don't take any breaks. So stopping the polisher and using a brush to clean the pad works but it's not as fast or effective as using a terry cloth towel.

The whole idea and success behind the *cleaning your pad on the fly technique* is in that it allows you to clean your pad quickly, (that's the *on the fly* part), and then *quickly* get back to work.

Again, buffing out an entire car using a dual action polisher from start to finish is an all day job. There is no time for lollygagging. If you lollygag or take long breaks, you either won't get the job done in one day or you'll sacrifice doing a quality job during the _cleaning step_ in order to get to the _waxing step_ so you can put the car back into service. :dunno:

So let's take a look at how to clean your pad on the fly

Cleaning your pad on the fly is where you take a terry cloth towel, usually a medium size hand towel works best, you fold it in two and then simply hold the towel against the face of the pad and then turn the polisher on and use your hand that's holding the towel to push the towel into the foam. This will act to draw any excess liquid _*out of*_ the foam and any excess residue *off of* the face of the pad.

After polishing a section of the trunk lid on Harvey,










Max's classic 1964 Ford Falcon Future, we took a brand new 100% Cotton Terry Cloth Towel and held it against the face of the foam pad and then turned the polisher on and pushed and smooshed the towel against the pad for about 45 seconds or so and here are the results.



















*Question:* Why use terry cloth instead of microfiber?

*Answer:* Great question!

100% cotton terry cloth is very good at absorbing liquid, so when you push the terry cloth into the foam the liquid in the foam will transfer into the terry cloth fibers through capillary action where the cotton fibers will more or less hold or trap the liquid inside of themselves.

There's more to it than that however, the nap of terry cloth, that is the little cotton loops, will help to slice into the caked and gummy reside which will loosen its hold so the residue will transfer to the towel as well as some will fall to the ground.

Compared to most microfiber polishing cloths with a nap, not the type that has flat woven surface, the terry cloth nap, (the nap is the the little tiny loops of cotton fiber), is more stout and it's this extra stoutness that enables a large, nap terry cloth towel to work better to break-up the residue on the pad.

So it's both the absorbency of the cotton fibers plus the larger size of the cotton nap that together make a terry cloth towel better for cleaning your pad on the fly.

_Does that make sense?_

*The nap of 100% Cotton Terry Cloth Toweling*









Conversely, isn't one of the reasons microfiber polishing cloths are so popular for wiping paint is because the fibers are microscopic in size and thus are more gentle to paint than larger cotton fibers? (The answer is "yes")

You can use what you like and make up your own mind. Besides the case I've made above for using terry cloth another reason is to save your microfibers for where they excel best and that's wiping residues off polished paint.

Some might also make the case that 100% cotton is better at a*b*sorbing while microfiber materials are better at a*d*sorbing but that's probably getting just a little too deep for what is actually a very simple method of cleaning your foam pads while buffing out a car.

Try both the next time you're working on a car and come to your own conclusion but for me I'll use terry cloth towels for removing residues off my pads and I'll save my microfibers for carefully cleaning residues off paint.

*Question:* What about pad cleaning brushes?

*Answer:* I touched briefly on this above, but let's drill down a little deeper. Pad cleaning brushes or even a nylon toothbrush work great for cleaning residue off the face of a foam pad when the foam pad is on a *rotary buffer* but they don't work well at all when the pad is on a *dual action polisher*.

About the best you can hope for is to clean the very center of the pad when the tool is turned on but as you draw the bristles of the brush towards the outside of the pad the increased pressure over a small area, (the bristles of the brush pushing down on the foam), is enough pressure to engage the clutch in the tool and stop the pad from rotating.

The brush only cleans the pad if the pad is rotating. Thus brushes don't work well for cleaning pads on dual action polisher when you're trying to clean the pad while the polisher is turned on. Give it a try sometime and you'll see exactly what I mean.

For years when someone asks about the cheapie rotary buffers you can buy at Harbor Freight for buffing out paint, I would always mention that if nothing else, they make a great pad cleaner. That is take your dirty pads and one at a time place them on the backing plate of the rotary buffer and then use the rotary buffer to clean your pads. Rotary Buffers are *direct drive* tools and have a lot of power and a little brush held against the face of the pad isn't enough to slow the tool down so they work great for cleaning pads as well as removing a lot of paint quickly if you're using a RB to buff-out paint.

The cleaning your pad on the fly technique works well for all the popular dual action polishers on the market including,

Porter Cable 7424XP
Porter Cable 7424
Porter Cable 7336
Ultimate Detailing Machine - The first generation was Autopia's design. The second generation is a re-badged Porter Cable 7424
Meguiar's G100a - Re-badged Porter Cable 7424, came with a lifetime warranty
Meguiar's G100 - Re-badged Porter Cable 7424, came with a 1 year warranty.
Meguiar's G110 - Meguiar's design
Meguiar's G220 - Meguiar's design - 220 Volts
Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital Polisher - Griot's design
*Other options include,*

The Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

_The technique..._

*This is me using the "Clean your Pad on the Fly Technique" to clean my pad on the fly as we removed the oxidation off this Neon.*

*Dodge Neon Extreme Makeover with Dodo Juice*





































This technique really only works well with the Porter Cable style DA Polishers.

There's a modified version of this that works with rotary buffers...


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## gally (May 25, 2008)

Where's the rotary version Mike?


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

gally said:


> Where's the rotary version Mike?


Not finished yet, but I show it in all our classes...

When I get it done I'll post it... have some other projects ahead of it...


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## Guest (Mar 16, 2011)

Got the pad washer myself, not cheap over here, but does work and saves so much time :thumb:


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## WHIZZER (Oct 25, 2005)

Another good tip


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## tfonseca (Jul 31, 2008)

Great tip!


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## HornetSting (May 26, 2010)

Your write ups are great Mike. Thanks!

Ben


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## ch96066 (Oct 17, 2010)

I have the flex 3401. I used a nylon tooth brush while the tool was on and there was no issue of stopping down. Unfortunately though, the toobrush bristles were shortened through friction with the pad .

Based on your experience, What kind of speed-pressure combo would you suggest for either o rotary or da moving polisher and a standard tooth brush?

Will spritzing water prior the cleaning (with either brush or towel) help?

Thank you in advance Mike.


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

ch96066 said:


> Based on your experience, What kind of speed-pressure combo would you suggest for either o rotary or da moving polisher and a standard tooth brush?


With a foam pad on a rotary, usually around 1500 RPM which is usually the RPM I'm using when doing correction work, sometimes slower and rarely faster.

Its during the correction steps you'll have the most amount of,


*Spent product*
*Removed paint*
Building up on the face of the pad.

For DA Polishers like the PC and spin-offs, I only use a nylon brush with the machine turned off and I'm basically scrapping residue off the face of the pad while holding the pad still on the machine.

Same for the Flex 3401



ch96066 said:


> Will spritzing water prior the cleaning (with either brush or towel) help?
> 
> Thank you in advance Mike.


Spritzing some pad cleaner onto the pad and then cleaning the pad using a terry cloth towel works pretty good, the pad cleaner will help to emulsify and loosen the gunk on the pad making it easier for the terry cloth to a*d*sorb and a*b*sorb it off the pad.

Good questions!


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