# Glare Paint Sealant



## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Has anybody used this or had experience with this?It sounds like a very interesting product http://www.carcarestore.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=11


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## Auto Finesse (Jan 10, 2007)

Do you just live in your own little world and not look at any other threads 

SEARCH! Or have a little look around there has been a discussion on this going for the past few days :thumb::lol:


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Never noticed:lol:


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> Has anybody used this or had experience with this?It sounds like a very interesting product http://www.carcarestore.co.uk/index....d&productId=11


I've just noticed this thread - I expect you've seen it by now but Dave from the In the Detail posted up some pics of his Golf and Mat from Dream Machine posted some pics of a couple cars he has applied it to.

I think it's a really good product (no surprise I would say that is there lol) but I do really mean it. It's marketed with a lot of flash American spin which is unecessary as the product is strong enough to let the results do the talking, but I guess that's how products sell best in best the states, where they may not have heard the adage 'less is more' 

But for me the reasons I like it are because it's easy to apply, lasts a long time, gives a good gloss and is versatile as it can also be used on glass, windows, chrome etc

There is also a special offer running at the min if you fancy giving it a whirl 

PS I haven't forgotten about that sample and I will pop it in the post to you tomorrow :thumb:


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

How important is the Glare coat after the glare sealant is applied.??

Is it necessary or are there any problems that might come about not applying this.??
Gordon.


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> How important is the Glare coat after the glare sealant is applied.??
> 
> Is it necessary or are there any problems that might come about not applying this.??
> Gordon.


The Glare coat or second layer is important because it bonds to the first layer which is initially buffed into the paintwork (by hand or machine), effectively you could only apply one layer but I don't think the durability would be as good.

So essentially the process is:

1. Wipe down with IPA or dewaxer spray.
2. Apply the first layer by applicator pad or machine polisher (1800rpm/finishing pad) and work until there is no residue.
3. Apply the second layer (Glare coat) but use only light pressue (applicator pad) and apply in lines, allow to cure for around 10 minutes and then buff off.


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## empsburna (Apr 5, 2006)

I'm going to be giving my sample a go over the weekend.

It has 5 months of FK1000p to match (which is still going strong) and the car is question is your average 10k miles, washed weekly car.


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> I'm going to be giving my sample a go over the weekend.
> 
> It has 5 months of FK1000p to match (which is still going strong) and the car is question is your average 10k miles, washed weekly car.


Excellent  That sounds like a good test so I would look forward to hearing your thoughts :thumb:


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Quick question; after the initial layer is applied and worked in until it's disappeared into the paint surface, does it still need buffing over before the second coat is applied because this routine would suggest not as it doesn't mention any buffing after step 2?

1. Wipe down with IPA or dewaxer spray.
2. Apply the first layer by applicator pad or machine polisher (1800rpm/finishing pad) and work until there is no residue.
3. Apply the second layer (Glare coat) but use only light pressue (applicator pad) and apply in lines, allow to cure for around 10 minutes and then buff off.


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> Quick question; after the initial layer is applied and worked in until it's disappeared into the paint surface, does it still need buffing over before the second coat is applied because this routine would suggest not as it doesn't mention any buffing after step 2?


Good question  I personally like to give a quick buff in-between but you could proceed onto the next layer without doing that. Either way there should be very minimal residue left after applying the first layer :thumb:


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## Frothey (Apr 30, 2007)

it does pretty much "dissapear" into the paint when used by rotary - i went over the top with a thin layer without buffing as, being married, I'm used to doing as instructed!


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

It will also dissappear into the paint by orbital at speed 1, thats where the gloss really happens and the glass starts to be added on top of the clear, giving 10 to 80 more microns of paint thickness readings.

always finish by orbital at speed 1 or 2 with micro (orange or green) and pro polish with white, black and blue glare pads to achieve insane colour, wetness, depth and the glassy clarity and thick glass coating.

The guys at Glare are their own worst enemy as they give the big sales pitch of this is the best **** available just try it and they make huge claims. most are true but a few are not.

The instructions on the bottles aren't exactly brilliant either. Theres no mention of orbital application and 1800 rpm is fine by rotary if you want to do the job ultra quick but it will still work by rotary at 900 to 1200. 

Hardly any pro's in the USA use it and it gets bagged by closed minded people who have used it wrong or never used it at all. 
The majority use it wrong, they apply it like an abrasive. 

It doesn't work by heat or fast rubbing as theres no abrasives to break down, it's not cutting and levelling or glazing. 
Glare bonds better to fresh paint and can even be applied straight on just painted panels 
Zero and Micro Finish are needed if you want extraordinary glare protection as the zero turns the paint back to near fresh paint when used by rotary at 900 to 2700 rpm with a black glare pad (trust me it doesnt create much heat) 
at those high speeds it will reflow the paint thus fusing hills and valleys together producing reduced orange peel. 
The micro then dries up the zero and bonds to it and the Pro Polish or Advanced bonds to them and locks all the fillers in and turns to glass, laying down a good sheet of glass to protect the paint. 

I believe that rotary application for every product then followed with orbital application of the knockout, micro and pro polish is the ultimate way to use them. 
Orange peel burial, paint deep cleaning, colour shade enhancement (serious enrichment), maximum glass thickness and deep wet gloss is achievable with this method. 

there are many ways to use glare such as to make abrasive paint correction and polishing more effective and easier, to remove all oxidation without removing paint, deoxidising rubber, paint, urethane moldings and other automotive surfaces, hardening the paint and to deep clean the paint removing abrasive oxide dust, wax and polish buildup and more.
Micro Finish absolutely has to be applied on every car as Pro Polish applied after paint correction and polishing or even glazing just won't bond. 
Pro only bonds to micro finish. Pro on it's own won't do jack.


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

in saying all that, Glare isn't the be all and end all
Paint correction and polishing and then Glare treating the paint with Zero, Micro and Pro polish and continuing to use Glare (only do a zero treatment on one occasion) over and over once or twice every 12 to 24 months on the same layer of clear coat is even better than just Glare Zero, knockout, Micro Finish and Pro Polish
Depth and clarity is extremely important and always correcting paint will remove paint and after a certain number of treatments, it's gone and you'll never get that depth and clarity back again.


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## Frothey (Apr 30, 2007)

do you mean microns, or nanometers? an average sized car with 120 microns of paint would take about 3 litres of paint - that's an awful lot of Glare to add 80 microns......

same with the "glass" being added - yet to see a liquid/solvent that will hold glass in suspension, and if it did, it would act as an abrasive. it would also shatter if a stone hit it!

like you said "most are true but a few are not."


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> do you mean microns, or nanometers? an average sized car with 120 microns of paint would take about 3 litres of paint - that's an awful lot of Glare to add 80 microns......
> 
> *same with the "glass" being added* - yet to see a liquid/solvent that will hold glass in suspension, and if it did, it would act as an abrasive. it would also shatter if a stone hit it!
> 
> like you said "most are true but a few are not."


This is good point and I would just like to add that the chemical composition is branded as GlassPlexin® and marketed as 'liquid glass' but it's not actually glass in a liquid form, however the terminology seems to stem from the fact that the finish it leaves on darker colours is quite 'glass like' in appearance, if you've used PolyCharger then you will know what I mean by this


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## Finerdetails (Apr 30, 2006)

I usede this back in 2005, used it on an Altea I bought back then... it looked ok, but saw a drop back afterone month and so I waxed over it and used it as a base.


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> Micro Finish absolutely has to be applied on every car as Pro Polish applied after paint correction and polishing or even glazing just won't bond.
> Pro only bonds to micro finish. Pro on it's own won't do jack.


The sealant (Pro Polish) will work without Micro Finish but as you say the paint has to be cleaned after polishing whether that's through the use of Micro Finish which is as you know is an excellent paint cleanser and a naturally compatible base layer or by the use of IPA/a good dewaxer.

I will get that Liquid Clay sample out to you this week :thumb: - incredibly it's only 20p more to send it to you in Australia than it is to send it to someone who lives about 30 miles from me :lol:


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## Finerdetails (Apr 30, 2006)

done a search, I was using back in oct/nov 2004!!!! dam time flies!


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> I usede this back in 2005, used it on an Altea I bought back then... it looked ok, but saw a drop back afterone month and so I waxed over it and used it as a base.


I can't really comment on what it was like back then but a month is way off current durability performance and I 100% would not be selling a sealant on DW that only lasted 4 weeks :doublesho :lol:

Can you remember what process did you follow with the application?

If you PM me your address I will send you a sample as I am totally confident you will see different results with what I currently have :thumb:


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

Car Care Store said:


> The sealant (Pro Polish) will work without Micro Finish but as you say the paint has to be cleaned after polishing whether that's through the use of Micro Finish which is as you know is an excellent paint cleanser and a naturally compatible base layer or by the use of IPA/a good dewaxer.
> 
> I will get that Liquid Clay sample out to you this week :thumb: - incredibly it's only 20p more to send it to you in Australia than it is to send it to someone who lives about 30 miles from me :lol:


I don't see the point of using Pro Polish on it's own, it won't bond to a polished surface, it needs the micro and even the other products to turn the paint back to near fresh paint

The products contain silicate ions which are negatively charged, I am led to believe and actually do turn to glass on and within the paint (my PTG readings can't be wrong)

Nobody knows more about glare than the Australian distributor, no one else comes close.


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## Frothey (Apr 30, 2007)

What if the car has a negative charge? 

I'm sure if you could make glass just by charging Silica, then all the glass plants would be interested as it means they could get rid of all their furnaces!


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> I don't see the point of using Pro Polish on it's own, it won't bond to a polished surface, it needs the micro and even the other products to turn the paint back to near fresh paint
> 
> The products contain silicate ions which are negatively charged, I am led to believe and actually do turn to glass on and within the paint (my PTG readings can't be wrong)
> 
> Nobody knows more about glare than the Australian distributor, no one else comes close.


Pro Polish won't bond very well to a surface that has been polished due to the potential oils etc that may be left behind but that is the same for a lot of sealants, but I am agreeing with you that the paint does need cleaning after polishing but this can be done either with IPA/a paint cleanser (i.e. Micro, P21s etc) or a good dewaxer  So what I'm saying is the paint should be clean/fresh but you could use IPA/a dewaxer in place of Micro.

RE: Liquid Glass - it does form a glass like coating as you say and hence I think that's how they coined the term 'GlassPlexin' but I was just pointing out to other readers that it's not actually pieces of ground up glass in a liquid  The science behind it is pretty complicated and I don't pretend to fully understand it myself but 'liquid glass' or 'water glass' is used in many different applications.


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## R31Heaven (Jun 9, 2008)

I will back up Glare. I have used it and still have it, but have gone into lets try other products phase, when I used it, I found it give fantastic result, I would put it up there with Zaino Z2. This is a GTR that I done over a year ago I havent seen it since but after 8 months they said it was still as good as first done it. Iam thinking of going back to try it again as I see it as a good value product. I still doubt the durability that the Glare site says but hey 8 months for the cost of the products is a good bang for the buck.


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> I will back up Glare. I have used it and still have it, but have gone into lets try other products phase, when I used it, I found it give fantastic result, I would put it up there with Zaino Z2. This is a GTR that I done over a year ago I havent seen it since but after 8 months they said it was still as good as first done it. Iam thinking of going back to try it again as I see it as a good value product. I still doubt the durability that the Glare site says but hey 8 months for the cost of the products is a good bang for the buck.


Nice job on the GTR :thumb: I agree durability of around 8 months as you say makes it pretty good value for money, especially when you you factor in how versatile it is, i.e. also makes a good wheel sealant, glass treatment etc.


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## hutchingsp (Apr 15, 2006)

I've not used Glare but I do use Fire Glaze which is a "previous generation" product but uses much of the same technology (Tempraflex/Glassplexing etc.).

Can't say I'm an expert on these things but it goes on very easily, actually I gave the car an APC soak today and applied a coat, simply used a damp MF applicator and rubbed it into the paint and left it an hour or so and buffed off.

I'd struggle to put a longevity to it, personally I find it so easy to use that I don't see longevity as being an issue, I just apply a coat every few months.


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## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

hutchingsp said:


> I've not used Glare but I do use Fire Glaze which is a "previous generation" product but uses much of the same technology (Tempraflex/Glassplexing etc.).
> 
> Can't say I'm an expert on these things but it goes on very easily, actually I gave the car an APC soak today and applied a coat, simply used a damp MF applicator and rubbed it into the paint and left it an hour or so and buffed off.
> 
> I'd struggle to put a longevity to it, personally I find it so easy to use that I don't see longevity as being an issue, I just apply a coat every few months.


Fireglaze have a totaly new formula and does not smell like crap.


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

I was kindly sent a small sample of this to try last week and so yesterday I tried some on the boot of the Puma which will be a long term test of how it fairs over the coming months. (The whole width of the boot was treated despite the pics concentrating on the left hand quarter)










The section was prepped with some Menz 106 by DA and was given an IPA wipe down _(just as a disclaimer as you have to consider every eventuality on here and how people read and interpret things  - the Menz 106 isn't a required step for prepping the panel for this product, but I'd got a few wash induced light scratches and one slightly deeper one that I wanted to remove, so to kill 2 birds with one stone and do that, plus strip off all existing products as well - Megs#16 in this case - I went over it with the 106 on a Menz yellow pad)._

I decided to do the application by hand as I figured most of the other testers would be applying the stage one by machine and I wanted to give it a test by 'all hand method' for those who would be buying it who don't have a polisher. Also I didn't want to soil another finishing pad for just a small section, 'cos I'm tight lol!

The instructions are for a double layer application method and the first layer should be put down as if you are applying a polish (this is the bit that you can use a machine for) i.e with fair pressure and rubbed in briskly until the residue melts and disappears into the surface. So on a Megs yellow I applied the first layer:-










Spreads very easily and sure enough after a minute or so of a circular action with fair, but not heavy, pressure it did more or less disappear into the surface to leave this (this is straight after the application and before I gave it light buff):-










Then the second layer (which is applied by hand regardless of how the first layer is put down) was put on - light pressure with a thin layer, just like any LSP application.

(This looks just the first application pic, but it's not lol!)










As per instructions, left for 10 minutes and buffed off (I did do a swipe test anyway to make sure and it was fine so 10 minutes was plenty on a cool panel).

It has to be said this did buff off extremely easily with a MF and there was no powder or dust.




























Did leave a very nice, slick and 'glassy' looking finish, which might not come across on camera, but at the same time, I couldn't help thinking that paint had also looked extremely good fresh after the menz polish and IPA wipedown when it was totally 'bare'. The whole debate about whether any LSP improves the looks to any discernible degree has been done before and this isn't the place for it, but it's just an observation.

So overall, a very easy to use, pleasant smelling sealant that did leave a nice glossy finish (taking into account what I've said above). Had I been doing a full car I'd probably have done the first layer by DA, but even by hand it wasn't hard work to do, so those without a machine will still find it a joy to use.

Now, we'll see how it fairs over the coming months :thumb:


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## DIESEL DAVE (Jul 26, 2007)

RosswithaOCD said:


> Has anybody used this or had experience with this?It sounds like a very interesting product http://www.carcarestore.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=11


I very nearly bought into the spiel 2yrs ago but the US shipping was phenominal, but sure as eggs are eggs some came up for sale on Ebay not long after and I got a bottle.
My findings were very like those of Zaino, a very good product but didn`t stop me buying and trying other sealants.


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> So overall, a very easy to use, pleasant smelling sealant that did leave a nice glossy finish (taking into account what I've said above). Had I been doing a full car I'd probably have done the first layer by DA, but even by hand it wasn't hard work to do, so those without a machine will still find it a joy to use.


Thanks for the review :thumb: I'm glad to hear you found it easy to use and I'll look forward to your feedback on how it holds up over the winter months 

What will you be applying to the rest of the car?


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

The rest of the car will have Meguiar's #16 on, as it's been wearing for the past few months :thumb:


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Well, it's just been raining here for the last 2 hours and this is how it's beading:-



















Not a lot can be read into the protection from a product's beading characteristics as we know, but thought I'd post them up anyway.

(btw Sorry Mr. TV, I'm hi-jacking your thread, mate  - but you did originally only ask for opinions on this sealant )


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Mr TV:lol:That dose have a Zaino look to it which I personalty love:thumb:


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

RosswithaOCD said:


> Mr TV:lol:That dose have a Zaino look to it which I personalty love:thumb:


Who changed that, Ross?  :lol: Do you want your old 'shampoo' one back?


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Viper said:


> Who changed that, Ross?  :lol: Do you want your old 'shampoo' one back?


I "know" :lol:


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## Frothey (Apr 30, 2007)

Quick update - sheeting comparison between Glare on left, and Z2 on right. Washed approx 4 times with Megs Shampoo Plus, to keep it fair.






Not a huge amount of difference, with maybe the Zaino just edging it. Only a month gone though, so plenty to play for in the durability stakes....

Got to say, it's excellent on glasswork though, especially the windscreen.


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## RedCloudMC (Jul 19, 2008)

Blimey - been away for a few months and come back to see GLARE getting some headlines on here! Deservedly so!

I've been a long time user of the whole range and rate it very highly. As an approved GLARE detailer I would say that of course  but it truly is a good product range.

I have also used it as a base below a carnauba wax and the results have been very satisfying indeed.

The ProPolish also does a great job on alloys and, given its high temperature resistance is ideal in engine bays too. 

Cheers :thumb:


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> Quick update - sheeting comparison between Glare on left, and Z2 on right. Washed approx 4 times with Megs Shampoo Plus, to keep it fair.


Thanks for the video update :thumb: I'll look forward to your further feedback.


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

That bottle of Glare sealant in the photo on page 3 looks like Micro Finish, Pro Polish and Advanced do not like anything like that colour. 

Though it could be the Glare Infinity product, the product made before Advanced was released

There is no need to buff off product excess or residue at all between steps of Glare
Clarity and colour spectrum is where glare excels above all other products.


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## Frothey (Apr 30, 2007)

Dream Machines said:


> Clarity and colour spectrum is where glare excels above all other products.


Scientific proof or subjective?


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

From first hand experience with gloss metres and my eye. 
It's like colour in a bottle


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## dominic84 (Jan 27, 2007)

> That bottle of Glare sealant in the photo on page 3 looks like Micro Finish, Pro Polish and Advanced do not like anything like that colour.


That's strange but it must be the light or perhaps different colouring has been used becuase it was decanted from a full size bottle of Pro Polish :thumb:

What colour is yours?


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## Daragh (Sep 11, 2006)

Pro Polish is cream-coloured (yellowish-white) but that photo was probably taken at sunset and it is giving it a slightly pinkish hue. The Micro-Finish is pale pink and Spider snow white in colour.


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

If it's my photo you're on about, then yes it was taken just before sunset and that's probably what's tinting the bottle.

However, that bottle isn't full - I was only sent a sample and only the bottom 10mm or so of it has product in, the rest of the bottle's empty, so I'm not really sure what exactly it is that looks the wrong colour as you can't see it in the pic


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

There are a few things I don't like about glare that I just found out

It takes the colour shade back to how it was originally
So if your like me and want to make red paint as dark as possible - say to candy apple or marone then don't use glare, all your work with abrasives and non abrasive products will be history as soon as glare micro or pro polish is applied

Friend and I were working on my fathers red MG F and got the red shade really wet and rich, well beyond the very mild red colour that it was from new, with prima swirl and megs yellow pad, menz 85RD, 87MF and BF GEP and Prima amigo then applied glare micro and bang, straight back to fire orange. so we had to reapply 85RD and the others all over again

sure the paint looked really clear, deep and sharp with the glare but we didnt want it that colour.


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## Frothey (Apr 30, 2007)

so, nearly two months on.....










zaino seeming to bead better, but when I chucked a bucket of water at it there was virtually no difference in sheeting. vid came out c**p so I'll try and get another one done.

Windows still beading excellently :thumb:


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## Faythur (Jul 8, 2006)

Referring to this thread in the traders section http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=139840 I've just made payment for the Glaze samples.

However I now see that the funds seem to have gone to Deed Poll Services UK Limited and assume this is correct OK?

I would add that a bottle of Fire Glaze [which I'm reading here is practically the same stuff] http://www.autopolish.com/ has been bought as a birthday present for me next week, so will be interesting to compare the two in due course


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## Dream Machines (Mar 13, 2006)

Fireglaze is the original range of products from that company, Glare is about 9 to 10 years newer with latest additions to the range being Advanced, Zero and Sahara some time around 2005 or 06


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## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

Faythur said:


> Referring to this thread in the traders section http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=139840 I've just made payment for the Glaze samples.
> 
> However I now see that the funds seem to have gone to Deed Poll Services UK Limited and assume this is correct OK?
> 
> I would add that a bottle of Fire Glaze [which I'm reading here is practically the same stuff] http://www.autopolish.com/ has been bought as a birthday present for me next week, so will be interesting to compare the two in due course


Fireglaze have been updating their products under 2009. If the product smells like manure, you have the old product and if it smells like cinammon, well then you have the new product.


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## Faythur (Jul 8, 2006)

Hmmm. Interesting....for the brief moment it was in my hands, I had a whiff but didn't really smell of anything strong at all - at least I think I would have recognised manure :lol:

Colour wise, IIRC it looks quite similar to Werkstat's Prime _Strong_...reasonably brownish..

I'll report back when I get it, as I'd hope it is the new formulation then. :thumb:

The guy who is importing it here has bought it in only since September straight from the factory in cases of 24 bottles.


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## CleanYourCar (Jan 23, 2006)

In The Detail said:


> so, nearly two months on.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great test, you can definitely see the difference there, with the line down the middle.

Z2 really isn't about sheeting, for that you'd want Z-CS, but from those pictures the right definitely 'looks' like it's doing more.


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## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

Faythur said:


> Hmmm. Interesting....for the brief moment it was in my hands, I had a whiff but didn't really smell of anything strong at all - at least I think I would have recognised manure :lol:
> 
> Colour wise, IIRC it looks quite similar to Werkstat's Prime _Strong_...reasonably brownish..
> 
> ...


I think the color is still brown? Must have a look, but if it smells bad - old. Smells good - new.


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## Daragh (Sep 11, 2006)

Faythur said:


> Hmmm. Interesting....for the brief moment it was in my hands, I had a whiff but didn't really smell of anything strong at all - at least I think I would have recognised manure :lol:
> 
> Colour wise, IIRC it looks quite similar to Werkstat's Prime _Strong_...reasonably brownish..
> 
> ...


I get products from the original manufacturers of FireGlaze (MB International USA) and they have an all-new water-based version for the marine industry (fibreglass gel coats etc) and a new petro-based one for the automotive market. All under different brand names.

Fireglaze is an old formula. The original one is tan or light brown in colour and doesn't smell the best. If the new polish you get is scented or has a sweet smell (rather than a chemical one), then you know it is a newer reformulated version.

The water based ones I have are yellow (micro-finishing cpd) and a light brown (pro polish) with a spice scent. The petro-based ones are white (micro-finishing cpd) and again light brown (pro polish). It's odour kind of reminds me of cola bottles I use to eat as a kid.


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