# Stone Chip Repair Guide



## Breezy

A common sight on everyone's bonnet is stone chips unless you've just had it re-sprayed but even then they are still inevitable!




























So after spotting a few on mine I thought I would have a go at repairing them after reading a couple of repair guides. Firstly I got hold of some touch-up paint from Paints4U you can alternatively just buy a touch-up stick from the stealers but for the same price, I got a 100ml tin of paint and 30ml clear lacquer which was a perfect colour match too it also came with a fine artists brush.

I also got some IsoPropyl alcohol to clean out all the dirt, crap, polish & wax from the stone chips, once this was done i went round filling the chips with paint and making sure the paint filled the chip and not the area around it as this can easily be done if you use a brush that's too thick you need to fill the chip so that the paint is raised over the area of the chip.

once left to dry the bonnet looked like this with blobs of paint










the wet & dry paper I used was Meguiars unigrit 2500

The next job was to wet sand the blobs of paint down to the same level as the existing paint and the best way I found to do this and keep the repairs to the local area was to wrap a small bit of sandpaper around the end of a flat piece of plastic (aka a bicycle inner tube remover!) or a pencil and gently rub down the raised paint and then level it out with the rest of the surface.

I used plenty of water with fairy liquid which foamed up nicely and acted as a good lubricant and also soaked the sandpaper in some fairy liquid before hand.

some nice sanding marks afterwards!



















these were easily removed using my porter cable polisher with a "4 lake & country orange light cut pad & Menzerna Intensive polish, the whole bonnet was then followed up with Menzerna Final Finish Polish (P085RD) with a "6 Sonus SFX blue finishing pad and 2 coats of Collinite 476s wax.

if you don't have a porter cable you can easily remove the sanding scratches by hand using 3M Perfect-It III fine cut compound

I can't see the chips anymore!


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## Scud

xcellent right up m8..........How long did you leave the paint on before adding the clearing...... then how long did you leave it to dry ?

Cheers
Scud


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## warne

Great write up Ive got to get my chips done and every time someone posts on this topic it gives me the confidence to go and do the job just waiting to get a break in the weather!


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## Breezy

Scud said:


> xcellent right up m8..........How long did you leave the paint on before adding the clearing...... then how long did you leave it to dry ?
> 
> Cheers
> Scud


i initially filled the chips then left overnight and touched up a few that needed touching up left for 24 hours again then sanded and polished after


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## Phil H

great write up! i too have a pot of touch up paint from paints 4 u. Can i ask why did you buy extra laquer? as it says on there site the touch up paints have laquer mixed in?


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## burns863

I dont have a porter cable. When you say you can do it by hand with the 3M product is it something that is gona take hours of elbow numbing polishing or would you say its quite easy? I have a MINI so the paint is hard.

Great Write up! Think I will be giving this a go soon!


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## Phil H

no, u can get the marks out with sonus sfx1 by hand a good combo by hand is a yellow sfx spot pad and sfx 1.


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## gobbo

I'm tempted to give this a go on my car, i'm just worried about wrecking it :S


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## NavSG

gobbo said:


> I'm tempted to give this a go on my car, i'm just worried about wrecking it :S


Why dont you practise on a scrap panel first !

:thumb:


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## DarrylB

I need to do mine, my bonnet is actually embarrassing under artificial light.

Nice write up!


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## Breezy

Phil H said:


> great write up! i too have a pot of touch up paint from paints 4 u. Can i ask why did you buy extra laquer? as it says on there site the touch up paints have laquer mixed in?


i opted to get the touch up paint without lacquer mixed in


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## Phil H

ah right, is that a better option? or is mine ok as its mixed?


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## Rags

Brilliant write up.

I also have a BM which seems to attract stone chips, no matter how I drive.

Annoying!

I have filled all the chips, so its 2000grit time.

I don't have Unigrit but another make of 2000/3000 grit but bought from an automotive supplier.

I hope it will be ok.


Anyway, any idea the best way to prevent stone chips? Thicker coast of LSP?


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## Kriminal

You got balls mate - and great skill :thumb: 

I had a go on a Lexus I had previously.....followed the instructions on a detailing website (not this one)....simple procedure of hole punching out the fine grit-paper, sticking a piece to the end of a pencil rubber, and hey presto you have a super close to use "stone chip paint eraser". .........DON'T DO IT !!!!!! :doublesho 

I couldn't exactly see what was happening as you had to keep applying soapy water to the surface....and then......I started noticing it was coming back the surface real good....and then.....I noticed two kinda funny looking lines parallel to the edge of the chip area  ......and then.....I wiped it dry to discover that the bloody bit off paper that I had stuck to the end of the pencil eraser had CURLED !!! The edges of the paper had actually "dug" into the paintwork and took it back to the primer !!! :wall: 

What a nightmare that was.....talk about being traumatised.....lucky I can look back and laugh about it now.

Anybody want there's done ????


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## a8kuc

Can you come and do my car for me!!?

I just bought one of those halfords repair kit things, just gotta find a dry window in the weather for a few days to get the chips done, unlikely!


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## dodger

superb write up, thats a job that i have got to do.

Can a mod make this a sticky for future reference.


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## streaky

One of those jobs you know you have to face and now we have a bit more guidance thanks


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## Breezy

a8kuc said:


> Can you come and do my car for me!!?
> 
> I just bought one of those halfords repair kit things, just gotta find a dry window in the weather for a few days to get the chips done, unlikely!


i would stay away from halfords paint and lacquer mate the quality is terrible!

get some decent paint and give it ago its not that hard to do


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## Rags

One thing you do realise is that there are an awful lot more chips than your first realise.


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## Coxy914

Good write up. My RS2 has loads of stone chips on the front and would like to get them done. I thought my best option would have been to get it resprayed before I read this!

Did you apply the clearcoat afterwards or not??


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## Breezy

i do plan to put some lacquer over the areas i've repaired then blend it in the the PC as i've used this method with other repairs and brushed lacquer on before and once dry lightly wet sand then buff


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## Rags

One question I have for you Breezy

When wet sanding, how do you know how much to sand?

ie. leaving the clear coat intact?

Also, I have some blobs that protrude the surface maybe too much......how should I deal with these as too much sanding may end up with no clear coat!


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## Brazo

^^Thats where skill and a PTG come in :thumb:


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## micken

Breezy said:


> i do plan to put some lacquer over the areas i've repaired then blend it in the the PC as i've used this method with other repairs and brushed lacquer on before and once dry lightly wet sand then buff


When you put extra lacquer on do you key the original at all, say with 3000 unigrit? Or will new laquer bind to original lacquer that's simply had all traces of polish, glaze and wax removed?


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## Breezy

micken said:


> When you put extra lacquer on do you key the original at all, say with 3000 unigrit? Or will new laquer bind to original lacquer that's simply had all traces of polish, glaze and wax removed?


clean the area you plan to lacquer (over the top of the original lacquer) thoroughly first with some IsoPropyl alcohol or fairly liquid, dry then lacquer.

Once the lacquer has dried then you can go over it with some 3000 grit to smoth then polish


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## micken

^ good man Breezy, thanks.


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## Bigadz

Good work breezy your bonnet came up a treat!.

Quick question, I have a mark where someone kindly opened thier door onto mine hard!
Its gone back to the metal so with my kit from paints4u i got some white groundcoat. When I have put a thin layer of this into the chips how long should I leave it before applying basecoat/laquer mix? Do I have to let it fully cure, only otherwise it will take several days! Thanks:thumb:


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## Breezy

Bigadz said:


> Good work breezy your bonnet came up a treat!.
> 
> Quick question, I have a mark where someone kindly opened thier door onto mine hard!
> Its gone back to the metal so with my kit from paints4u i got some white groundcoat. When I have put a thin layer of this into the chips how long should I leave it before applying basecoat/laquer mix? Do I have to let it fully cure, only otherwise it will take several days! Thanks:thumb:


you should let it sure for 24 hours at least and some goes for the basecoat as you will often find the paint will sink into the chip as it cures and you may need to apply more once its dry to build up the layer slightly. So handy if you have a garage you can leave your car in...


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## Bigadz

Okay mate thanks for that, well I dont have a garage so I shall have to make do. I might try and cover the area to help it cure better overnight. And protect from rain?


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## Jockrock

Nice guide mate.

I'm feeling the need to give this a try. I'm in the process of repairing my front splitter too so this helps me with that too.

Cheers m8:thumb:


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## JSH3

I'm just about to give this a go: I've got a Scratchmaster kit and some light grey groundcoat coming tomorrow to try and fix some chips on my Crystal Blue Audi... Thankfully I've got someone from DW coming over this weekend to give it a proper detailing, so if I make a hash of it at least there's gonna be someone to hand to get the paint level again! Now all I need is three solid days of good weather, which in the UK is of course absolutely guaranteed...


...oh hang on, I mean "is extremely bl**dy unlikely", don't I? Keep yer fingers crossed for me: I've never done this kind of thing before! :thumb:


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## Black 125

Any chance that 3000 grade wet sanding marks can be removed by hand with scratch x? It's a real a struggle trying to remove the lightest of swirls with it! Have not got anywhere to try it out on.


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## Bigadz

Black 125 said:


> Any chance that 3000 grade wet sanding marks can be removed by hand with scratch x? It's a real a struggle trying to remove the lightest of swirls with it! Have not got anywhere to try it out on.


I have been told by several people that as you are using the finest paper as in 3000 you should be able to remove them by hand.
I too have scratch X and some proper polishing pads to give a bit more bite. You might want to get some more agressive polish in. I am going to be sanding in the next day or two and I have some Sonus SFX1 at hand but they might come out with scratch X/SFX2. I will be starting with scratch x then working up more aggresive if needed. :thumb:


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## Black 125

Bigadz said:


> I have been told by several people that as you are using the finest paper as in 3000 you should be able to remove them by hand.
> I too have scratch X and some proper polishing pads to give a bit more bite. You might want to get some more agressive polish in. I am going to be sanding in the next day or two and I have some Sonus SFX1 at hand but they might come out with scratch X/SFX2. I will be starting with scratch x then working up more aggresive if needed. :thumb:


Thanks. Let us know how you get on.


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## Guest

Really excellent job! :thumb:

Did you have any problems with dulling the flake by sanding (i.e. shearing the metallic particles)? Perhaps polishing will will correct this anyway? I've not tried wetsanding metallics before.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Simpson

At what stage did you apply the lacquer?


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## gtst-chris

Couple of questions...can this be done on plastic bumpers and with my car having soft soft paint (or so i have heard) will i have to take extra care when carrying out the repairs. Also on the paints 4 U site they have a touch up and G3 compound option, what does the compund do.

Cheers 

Chris


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## Breezy

I applied the lacquer only to larger scuffs i repaired using the same method after the base coat had been leveled off, sanded and the polished with the pc.

yes this can be done on plastic bumpers as I repaired a few small scuffs on mine, the compound is basically used to remove coarser sanding marks e.g. 1200 grit but menzerna intensive polish or meguiars 83 will remove 1500-3000 fairly easily


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## NavSG

Im gonna give this a go this weekend, but i only have SSR 1, 2 and 2.5. Will these get polish out the marks made by 2500-3000 ?


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## Breezy

NavSG said:


> Im gonna give this a go this weekend, but i only have SSR 1, 2 and 2.5. Will these get polish out the marks made by 2500-3000 ?


yes they should remove the sanding marks without any problems


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## bsmotorsport

inspiring, ive got a spare door for my car, might have a got at it and see what will and wont polish out after painting and sanding


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## Guest

Can I do the same for Scratches? Will Scratch X work instead of the 3M stuff? and do I need to apply a laquer?


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## rav t sport

great writ up

can someone let me know if i am buying the right kit

i am going for the Paints4u Scratch Master Kit

http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=6912

is this correct


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## bluenose

Yes, same question from me. 
Anyone have experience with this kit?

Thanks


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## Breezy

havent seen that kit before but looks like a very good buy has everything you need


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## rav t sport

which one did you use


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## powelly

Just my 2p worth, if using an aerosol lacquer on localised repairs, spray fade out thinners over the repair before polishing, this helps dissolve the edge of the newly applied lacquer and blends it in to the surrounding paint/lacquer and makes for less blending work afterwards with wet and dry and polish. It can be bought from paints4u in an aerosol can, I used to use this stuff from a gun when doing smart repairs, works brilliantly and gives a more invisible repair.


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## ThyJones

Few quick questions from me before i attempt some on my car, how raised does the paint need to be over the chip itself? and where can you buy the meguairs unigrit 2500? 

Cheers


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## chris'svr6

Thy, i don't think it matters too much as long as the actual chip has been filled in, obvouisly the smaller the bump, the less work you have to do with the sanding down. Check out the sponsor's on the site....most of them sell Meg's Paper 2000/2500/3000 in singles and packets, depends how much you need.


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## S63

powelly said:


> Just my 2p worth, if using an aerosol lacquer on localised repairs, spray fade out thinners over the repair before polishing, this helps dissolve the edge of the newly applied lacquer and blends it in to the surrounding paint/lacquer and makes for less blending work afterwards with wet and dry and polish. It can be bought from paints4u in an aerosol can, I used to use this stuff from a gun when doing smart repairs, works brilliantly and gives a more invisible repair.


Just about to tackle a scratch on my mondeo, thanks for the useful tip:thumb: There must be a lot of handy tips for getting the best results from a spray can, someone should post a sticky, or has this already been covered?


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## ThyJones

another query from me im afraid.

When do you apply the lacquer? or dont you?

and I take it this is the right stuff for use without a porter cable?
http://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/index.asp?function=DISPLAYPRODUCT&productid=112

Cheers


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## S63

powelly said:


> Just my 2p worth, if using an aerosol lacquer on localised repairs, spray fade out thinners over the repair before polishing, this helps dissolve the edge of the newly applied lacquer and blends it in to the surrounding paint/lacquer and makes for less blending work afterwards with wet and dry and polish. It can be bought from paints4u in an aerosol can, I used to use this stuff from a gun when doing smart repairs, works brilliantly and gives a more invisible repair.


Quick question Powelly, I am going to blow over a scratch on my machine silver mondeo, I have ordered basecoat, clear laquer and the thinner you reccomended, do I use the thinner after the basecoat or after the clear laquer?


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## Restorer

*Key Scratch*

I've got a MK1 Punto that has a key scratch all the way along the rear quarter panel.

Can I use this same technique to paint a line along the scratch and sand down?

Don't have any experience doing anything like this, any hints would be good. :newbie:


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## powelly

S500 said:


> Quick question Powelly, I am going to blow over a scratch on my machine silver mondeo, I have ordered basecoat, clear laquer and the thinner you reccomended, do I use the thinner after the basecoat or after the clear laquer?


Sorry only just got back from holiday, you spray the fade out over the lacquer, it helps to dissolve the edge of the new lacquer in to the old surrounding lacquer, it will still need a bit of flatting/polishing though to get a perfect finish.


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## Yeungster

I really want to try this technique out, but am just too scared. I know that all of you say it'll be fine, but there's always that little bit at the back of your head that's telling you that you could screw things up badly.

Might have to practice a bit on my runaround first


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## lard

brilliant guide thanks Breezy, had a little play on SWMBO's car over the weekend (was too scared to use mine for my first go) and it looks loads better now.

Just got to get a PC before tacking my car as I've got loads of stone chips on my bonnet and my arm will ache if I have to polish all the scratches out


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## fil_b

HI there

I dont own a PC yet, but i want to have a go at this

What kind of polish is good to remove the wet/dry marks??

i have some tcut currently but i guess thats not good enought

What is good things to buy

3M stuff?? and Sonus pads good to use with no PC??

Feebs


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## V8burble

fil_b said:


> HI there
> 
> I dont own a PC yet, but i want to have a go at this
> 
> What kind of polish is good to remove the wet/dry marks??
> 
> i have some tcut currently but i guess thats not good enought
> 
> What is good things to buy
> 
> 3M stuff?? and Sonus pads good to use with no PC??
> 
> Feebs


T-cut does not break down, so you can end up with a haze like finish due to lots of very fine scratches. Depending how hard or soft your paint is you should be able to remove the sanding marks with any light to medium cut polish.


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## Breezy

Any medium grade polish should be fine to remove the sanding marks Menzerna Intensive Polish PO91L / PO85RD 3.02 or 3M Fine Cut Compound 09375 I have both found to be very effective at removing 2000 - 3000 grit sanding marks although following up 2000 grit sanding with 3000 sanding makes marks a lot easier to remove.

I've also using these polishes with the white side of a german applicator pad by hand which makes them a lot easier to work / break down


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## fil_b

the 3M & Menzerna are they ok to use by hand also??


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## Breezy

yes mate as per my previous post these polishes can be used by hand to remove sanding marks


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## fil_b

well ordered my UDM just looking at the polishes now and a play bonnet to test my skills


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## K-Lex

I take my hat off in admiration to you sir. That shows great skill and I wish I'd got the balls to do that. I've got a PC and am thinking about giving it a go. I'm scared!!!!!!!


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## Breezy

K-Lex said:


> I take my hat off in admiration to you sir. That shows great skill and I wish I'd got the balls to do that. I've got a PC and am thinking about giving it a go. I'm scared!!!!!!!


I was a bit scred too at firs but whats the wrost that can happen eh?

I was a lot more scared when I machine sanded my car with the PC & some 2000 grit sanding discs  :lol:


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## pingu

think im gonna give this a go on mine and my mates car

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polish/menzerna-250ml/intensive-polish-po91l-/prod_216.html

this the polish i need ? also i will be using 3000 grade wet and dry with water and lots of washing up liquid

will all this be ok


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## Breezy

pingu said:


> think im gonna give this a go on mine and my mates car
> 
> http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polish/menzerna-250ml/intensive-polish-po91l-/prod_216.html
> 
> this the polish i need ? also i will be using 3000 grade wet and dry with water and lots of washing up liquid
> 
> will all this be ok


Yes that or the Intensive Polish PO85RD 3.02 will be fine.

Auto perfection are also doing samples of polishes now including the 3M Fine Cut Compound 09375 which is an excellent polish to use by hadn to remove fine sanding marks.


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## fil_b

is this ok to use with sanding??

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb281polish.html


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## Breezy

fil_b said:


> is this ok to use with sanding??
> 
> http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb281polish.html


Yes that what i use when sanding larger areas I find a small bits of sandpaper wrapped around a small square rubber eraser works very well for wet sanding small areas too


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## fil_b

having some issues with the swirl removal atm with megs 83

think i need to do more passes to get working

weather not been on my side atm tho so got to wait - thanks


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## Xcase_BMW

nice write up:thumb:


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## nortonski

Pretty damn good result, I have a few that I need to do on my own motor, I'd be more than happy if it turns out like this!!


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## bosshogg

I'm gonna do this in the next couple of days, so i just need clarification on what grade wet and dry to use, is it soley 2500 or do i use 3000 and 2500, cheers.


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## Breezy

bosshogg said:


> I'm gonna do this in the next couple of days, so i just need clarification on what grade wet and dry to use, is it soley 2500 or do i use 3000 and 2500, cheers.


you can just use 2500 although i find following 2500 with 3000 makes polishing easier


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## bosshogg

:thumb:


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## bosshogg

Actually come to think of it i have another question, i bought a chip repair paint from my local Honda group, when i open the bottle the paint looks a hell of a lot darker than my car, they asure me it's the correct one but i'm not so sure, any ideas.


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## Breezy

bosshogg said:


> Actually come to think of it i have another question, i bought a chip repair paint from my local Honda group, when i open the bottle the paint looks a hell of a lot darker than my car, they asure me it's the correct one but i'm not so sure, any ideas.


the paint will look a lot darker when wet but once its set and dry it will be fine and should blend into the rest of the bodywork with no problems as its just a very small amount of paint you are using as supposed to trying to repair or re-spray a bigger section


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## fil_b

i bought a clio 172 last week, its had lots of stone chips on the front bumper, paint has been added to it. But it seems to have not filled the chips propper

like sunk in the middle

is it worth adding more paint??


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## never ready

I followed this guide and got some amazing results (if I do say so myself)
Yes add more paint, mine took a couple of goes to fill the chips so they were just proud for the surface, but I felt this was a better approach than having a massive blob that needed a lot of sanding. I left it just over an hour between coats and 24 hours until the final wet sanding.
Did you fill in the chips or were the chips filled in when you got the car? The only reason I ask is that if it is old paint you might want to give it a little rub with some unigrit 2500 so the new paint keys in properly and won’t come away when you wet sand it later.

Good luck, I’m sure it will go well.


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## fil_b

well, it was on there when i got it - no idea if the garage did it or previous owner

i have a test bonnet in garage i going to play on 1st before i do my car

want to be sure i can buff out wet sanding marks hehehhe

so, sand the paint and add more then sand again???


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## jimmer

Excellent guide .


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## singlespeed

Help please  

Ive just got a 100mm tin of Star silver metalic from Paints4U, for a Vaux Astra. On the bonnet and top of the boot lid, the colour shade match is near perfect. However, doing a scratch on the vertical section of the boot and door skins, the paint had dried a few shades darker. Any ideas how to get the same shade as a horizontal pannel ( without tipping the car on its side :lol: ) I guess it is the way the flakes are alligned in the paint, and suspect there is nothing that can be done to prevent it  

Thanks Neil


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## jont404

singlespeed said:


> Help please
> 
> Ive just got a 100mm tin of Star silver metalic from Paints4U, for a Vaux Astra. On the bonnet and top of the boot lid, the colour shade match is near perfect. However, doing a scratch on the vertical section of the boot and door skins, the paint had dried a few shades darker. Any ideas how to get the same shade as a horizontal pannel ( without tipping the car on its side :lol: ) I guess it is the way the flakes are alligned in the paint, and suspect there is nothing that can be done to prevent it
> 
> Thanks Neil


Careful, I was told by Vauxhall there are 3 shades of Star Silver...


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## singlespeed

jont404 said:


> Careful, I was told by Vauxhall there are 3 shades of Star Silver...


 but the match is very good on the bonnet and top of the boot


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## fil_b

sounds soft, there is colour difference depending what angle of the car you look at - could be that


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## PinkRinse

Fantastic guide, just what I needed  Wish me luck because I'm going to be "attacking" my poor cars bonnet in the next day or so.


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## bosshogg

Good Luck.:buffer: :thumb:


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## Martin Burnard

Sometimes if you "dab" the paint in it will match, sometimes if you "brush" along the scratch it will match, and sometimes it just won't!

Silver bugs me no end.

Ohhh and silver "colour magic" really doesn't work.

(Will I be banned for mentioning that.......errr colour stuff?).


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## Sav

Sorry for asking this.

You fill in the scratch or chip with paint then sand down right? 

Then do you add the lacquer over the area and Sand down again?
then wait to cure then blend with polish?
Or is that all wrong?


Cheers
Sav


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## T123VOR

Extremely good guide Breezy

But I can't be the only person who wishes to do this but is slightly scared by this image!



Breezy said:


> some nice sanding marks afterwards!


Reassure me that once I have wet/dried the paint level - I can simple polish back with a G220 a polishing pad and some merzerna?

Also I have some paintchips and scratchs on my rear plastic bumper is this applicable to those too?










It's black sapphire bmw if that matters?

I'm definitely willing to give it a go though


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## little john

I was inspired by this guide, the family has 3 black vauxhalls so Ive invested in some paint and a seperate clear coat. I've got a few sheets of 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit paper, and today picked up a G220, 2 pads and some #83, thats all the shop had left. My sister has a few key marks in her's from 2 weeks after she bought it. Anyway I've filled all the scratches and chips with paint just as in the guide but not applied any clear coat. 

Do I wet sand them flat then clear coat and sand again or sand flat clear coat and then the DA? I hope to have a go at the weekend so any help could be useful, she has decided to buy another car.

Thanks


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## Breezy

There are much scarier images, i.e. the look of your car after a full machine sanding! :doublesho

I re-assure you that the 2000 - 300 grit amrks wil leasily be removed with your G220 and Menzerna polishes if you use 2000 grit i find sanding with 3000 grit afterwards makes polishing the sanding amrks out easier, just dont rub too hard!

you can use the same process for bumpers but i find it can be tricky if the scuffs are on a curved area the hardest part is laying the paint down evenly as with a chip you just need to fill it but scuffs can be a bit more tricky and would prob be easier to correct with spraying unless they are slighly deep in which case you can fill them



T123VOR said:


> Extremely good guide Breezy
> 
> But I can't be the only person who wishes to do this but is slightly scared by this image!
> 
> Reassure me that once I have wet/dried the paint level - I can simple polish back with a G220 a polishing pad and some merzerna?
> 
> Also I have some paintchips and scratchs on my rear plastic bumper is this applicable to those too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's black sapphire bmw if that matters?
> 
> I'm definitely willing to give it a go though


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## John74

Can this method be used for keying damage as some scumbag has keyed my car ? or am i looking at getting the panel resprayed ? the damaged area is 7 inches long.


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## little john

John74 said:


> Can this method be used for keying damage as some scumbag has keyed my car ? or am i looking at getting the panel resprayed ? the damaged area is 7 inches long.


I had a go today, a few stone chips and a few nice key marks like yours well these broke through to the base layer. I painted them a few weeks ago with thin layers and built them up to just above the surface, wet sended them today with 2500 grit then 3000 grit to flatten them but I either painted them baddly or took too much away and the edges of the paint in some parts have the white primer/undercoat showing through but some parts are spot on. I then went to it with my new G220 and some #83 and it removed the sanding marks with out problem just a few passes I will need to paint again I think sand then polish and then put a layer of clear coat on to make the area shine as at the moment the filled scratches just look matt and not shiney like the rest of the paint then another polish proberbly with megs #80.


----------



## esseker

great guide Breezy :doublesho 

and it looks great :argie: 

i have few chips too, im gonna go for it. can i use 4000 wet?
never sanded my car before, actually im scared to do it


----------



## addsvrs

Great guide.
I am new to detailing so will have to pluck up the courage to sand my paintwork..

All in good time


----------



## Waz

fantastic guide, going to give this a shot sometime. Near the intake vent on my rear arch area on my Porsche, I have noticed it is hammered with stone chips and filling them with paint is difficult due to sheer number of them in that small area. The picutre doesn't really show them that badly due to the flash, but it looks horrendous in person. Any ideas on how to tacke such an area?


----------



## Breezy

I think the langka repair system uses a squeegee system to spread paint over an area with large chips and fil lthem all then remove excess paint from around the area.

and yes you can use 4000 grit wet might take you a bit longer to sand down though i've found I have to resort to 1200 grit sometimes to level down the paint/lacquer to the surrounding area


----------



## Waz

Hi Breezy, had a look on their site and can't find the stone chip squeegee system you mention, they all seem to be for filling individual chips.


----------



## David

Nice guide mate.

My ibiza is the same, black paint, 9 years old and a GTi that the previous owner used for going down the motorway to work with, which is the worst for picking up stone chips.

When i decide to finally order my megs PC G220 i'll definately be giving this ago.

Thanks, Dave


----------



## Growie

Nice write up mate!! Good work and info for others....


----------



## fil_b

is it better to wash the car with normal wash meathod dry then add the paint to the chips?


----------



## Breezy

its always good to wash the area you are planning to fill with paint with something stronger than a normal shampoo to remove any wax and build up of dirt, something like a degreaser or just wiping the area with some IPA will do the trick.

This is a scuff i repaired using the same technique over the weekend










Area was clayed and wiped with IPA to remove any paint that had been transfered from the other car and then sanded using 2000 & 3000 unigrit










After polishing with the rotary and 3M fast cut plus on a compounding pad the depper marks stil lremained and these had gone through to the primer










So the deeper scratches were filled with touch up paint using a fine swab applicator and left to dry overnight, once dry area was sanded with 2000 & 3000 unigirit and polished with the rotart to remove the sanding marks to leave this


----------



## fil_b

whats an IPA??


----------



## Will-S

Hi Breezy 
that last job is unbelievable! Just proves you have a lot of skill and confidence to undertake a job like that. Don't think many of us would continue past the sanding stage (pass the smelling salts !!)


----------



## Will-S

IPA - Iso-Propyl Alcohol Used in many things (antiseptic agent, degreaser and found in cosmetics) In this example it is probably used as a cleaning agent to remove contaminants and old wax, polish & sealant


----------



## fil_b

wash the car and spray the IPA on??


----------



## 05 A4 TDI CAB

slightly off topic.... the meg 83... ifI use it too fast will it not work? i.e will it not cut as well if I am using it at 2000rpm? (thats the slowest my current rortary goes) REALLY NEED A NEW ONE!!!


----------



## designer1

*Newbie! Go Easy Please....*

Ok - I have read the guide and thought i would try on my BMW.

Recently my neighbours child threw a lump of slate up the bonnet....nice!
Anyway - hes paid to get it painted but I thought if i could work some magic i would!

My car is Titanium Silver 354 - and im finding it incredibly hard to blend the 'chips' out......the 2ft scratches came out using Megs 83 and 80 with the G220 i recently purchased.

Is silver a particularly hard colour to do - or is my lack in knowledge and experience letting me down!

I am new to this - so any help would be much apprected -

Thanks In Advance.....


----------



## graeme

superb write up, i dont have a polisher but have ssr 2.5 and ssr 3 so may give it a go. i have plenty of stone chips, a scuffed mirror and couple of scratches. VERY VERY nervous about trying although there is the girlfriends car.......

would this technique work with scuffed alloys as well btw? may save a refurb.


----------



## silver bmw z3

I need to do a scratch, I bought some paint from paints4u but it is separate clear and colour. Does that make it harder to touch up because I have to get the right levels of both ?


----------



## Ross

I have to do this to my car its is peppered in chips


----------



## Mike V

Lets get this stickied!!!


----------



## aziraphale

ok, newbie wanting some advice, pretty please.

i have a silver (grigio chiaro met) alfa 156, 2000 year, and the paint is terrible. stone chips all over the front end.

i have tried to fill in stone chips using a guide seen on here, it was a separate thread with someone filling chips on an aubergine coloured ford escort, if i remember rightly, yet i cant find it now.

i have a matched paint touch up, and every time i put the touch up paint in the chip, leave it to dry, then try to wet and dry flat (2000 or 2500 grit), it will simply pull the paint out of the chip. 

this has happened when i have tried airbrushing scratches in too.

what am i doing wrong?

:newbie:


----------



## mgreen

Are you sure you have cleaned it properly? And if you are down to the metal, you should use some primer first. Also available on touch up bottles.


----------



## mlgt

Hi guys, 

Ive been asked to help my friend repair chips on his Midnight Blue Porsche Targa 4S.

Where do you guys order/buy your paitns from? Is Midnight blue universal? 

Im happy to order online or try going to hafrauds to buy some spray paint. But they offer a metalic blue, which I am not certain is Midnight blue.

Am tempted to try the Dr Colorchip, but the thing is I said I would tackle it and it wouldnt cost more than £30 for the paint and sandpaper etc 

Can anyone advice me 

Thanks


----------



## Ennoch

try www.paints4u.co.uk There was also a dedicated porsche paint & accessory supplier that I found when looking for Wurth wheel paint but I can't remember who they were tbh. I would perhaps show your friend some of the before/after pics that have been on this site and see if he thinks spending the extra would be worth it. It's amazing how quick a couple of touch up sticks and the accessories can increase the cost. Split the postage from the states by getting a kit for your own car etc and that will help bring the price down too.


----------



## mlgt

I am very tempted to try the Dr Colorchip and it falls into the price category.
However my only concern is that if I did not try the CC method then its down to wet sanding... and thats what putting me off 

I will run this by him and hoping to try and repair the chips next weekend.


----------



## mlgt

I did not realise that the postage will cost more than the product itself if bought from Colorchip.

Which is kinda crazy for a small box to be sent over. Im gonna try order a kit from paints4u and see how I get on.

Currently awaiting a reply in regards to colour matching a Porsche.


----------



## whitelockben

thats an amazing job!

would love to attempt comething like this myself!


----------



## hardhitter

The kit from Paints 4 U looks good. You should be able to get the porsche paint from there or a porsche dealer no problem.


----------



## The Cueball

I have purchased a Paints 4 u kit as well after reading through this guide..

Cheers!!

:thumb:


----------



## Agar

Superb guide - i think i'll be trying the technique out on my mums battered Clio before doing my Golf.

Regarding sanding, ive heard reports that German (inc VW) paint is very hard. Is the kit from paints4u still ok to use? How much pressure to you put on the surface whilst sanding?

Thanks


----------



## pugleon

I had a very similiar skuff as breezy on a black mondeo. Complete noob to all this stuff but bought sfx-1 and the pad recommended on this tread and took it out by hand no less. Sorry I didnt think to take pictures but very similiar skuff to breezy on the passenger side door basically the whole length of the door. Took about two hours by hand after some touch up paint was applied. Sadly forgot to get any 2000/3000 grit paper so this was all sfx-1 and its restored the door to perfection. Looks perfect! Very pleased, also tempted to invest in a pc but for now its saved me a respray and some serious cash.

Going to have a go with a tonne of touchup blobs on my bonet once i get the sandpaper and sfx-1 it again.

Just wanted to thank you for the great guide. Also mention that when going at it by hand use the right to left and back movement not circular, read that somewhere else but tbh being a noob I didnt know how to apply the stuff.

Anyways with time and hard graft this can be done by hand. Thanks a mill!


----------



## kmeleon

any picture of the results after using the Paints4u scratch master kit?

Yesterday, I applied 2 layers of base coat paint. Left to dry more than 1 hour and apply 2 layers of clear lacquer. Today, I've applied 2 more layers of clear lacquer as there was still some depth in the chip. Now, it's like a bump as it is adviced. I'll let it to dry 24 hours before using the wet sanding paper. But I'm a little afraid about the wet sanding because I don't want to mess around.

Any advice from experienced user of the scratch master kit?

Thanks


----------



## pugleon

No pictures mate. But I'll say this. Took 5 coats to get a deep one out of a plastic bumper. That was 3 colour and then a seperate clearcoat I had knocking around. Sometimes takes alot to fill, why you see guys using that stuff you plaster on and then sanding it, sometimes quicker.

Anyways try to get it only bearly above the existing paint. Then a tiny bit of sanding and I mean tiny with a small bit of 1500 or 2000, attaching it to something like the butt of a pencil and using washing up liquid to lubricate your sandwork. But keep wiping it off and checking the results in diff angles. Trying to only sand the blob of touchup not the bits around it. But as you seen from the pics at the beginning of the thread that happens. And this next part blends it in:

Then the bit that brings it back to new. Some compound. I used SFX-1 and a poshing pad by hand. Back breaking at times. Keep to kinda four inch square spots of work and keep checking the results by wiping it off. Could be five minutes of back n forth back n forth trying to get a single touch up blob to even out.

The sfx-1 will actually bring down touchup blobs without sanding but its even harder work. And you tend to see a warp in the reflection of light if you dont. And like I say by hand, could be a couple of hours per panel and painfull. But brings it up just like it says on the tin. Dont worry too much about sanding so long as you dont go down to primer. Just take it easy with it and do the mimimum amount. Then let the compond do its job

Leave plenty of time for the stuff to dry in this weather, maybe even a couple of days... Can see the pass side door of mine as an aftershot. No befores but if you can imagine major scratching/skuffing all along that door much like breezys pics. And completely gone now. perfect restoration


----------



## jay w

I have a few stone chips on my Omega that am looking to do, but in addition i have a mark that is about 3/4 the size of a 5p piece.

Will this process work for that as well or should i be looking at something a little more 'professional based' 

Thanks


----------



## pugleon

yeah it'll work. just need to see where you stand in the chart of all things in terms of paint layers. I mean, is it down to metal, primer or is there still some orignal paint left in it.

Something that size if it was down to primer youd need at least two coats of touch up nice and evenly painted on. Then at least one to two clearcoat. At that stage you'll have a bump over where it meets the rest of the car paint wise. So take that down with 1500, then 2000 grit. Using some fairy liquid on your paper to lubricate the sanding.

Should be left with similar pics to whats seen in the guide. Kinda skuffed looking where its been sanded. But you only need to do enough sanding to bring it level with the rest of the paint. After which. A good compound like sfx-1. Which Im not selling by the way. Never used the stuff before and blown away by it.

With a lil elbow greese you can get this stuff out by hand.


----------



## gioprivatemove

Wow, nice write up... very clear and detail too. i'll try it then....


----------



## beany_bot

Hi, i like the sound of this but

A: never done wetsanding before 

B: only have tcut and AG SRP, which im guessing arent ebrasive enough, oh and dont have rotary polisher, only my arms  I dont mind taking my time over it and getting it right. im thiking fill it half in with paint then half in with laquer protruding the surface then wet sand (no idea how lol) then polish out. i hope.


----------



## detailing 4 fun

great write up,i have a 2003 5 series,my bonnet and front wings are really badly peppered,made much worse by metallic blue with white primer underneath!this has gave me the confidence to have ago!!!! i was gonna pay fora repaint so even if it went **** up ive lost nothing!!!thanks:thumb:


----------



## jtmk

Great write up to both pugleon and Breezy. 

I am a complete noobie and want to have a go at getting scuff marks of the bumper of my car and haven't got an orbital polisher. Do you think the sfx-1 by hand would work? Is sfx-1 a pad or the compound you apply? If it is the pad then what compound do you use to remove scuffs? Looking at them I don't think I need to do any touching up as they are not too deep. I also want to remove nail scratches around the door handles. Can these techniques be used for for that? How much pressure do you apply to the pad if doing it by hand? 

Cheers


----------



## MidlandsCarCare

What a great guide - thank you!!


----------



## Dan Clark

Fantastic guide - thanks 

I'll be giving this a go on my civic.


----------



## teaspoon

Does it work on fibreglass bodies?


----------



## BIG Matt

Gave this a go last weekend on a small scratch on my Vectra's tailgate. Worked a treat, saved me having the tailgate repainted.

Many thanks for writing this guide


----------



## Rossy

Excellent write up, Cheers:thumb:


----------



## lethbridge

Great thread, gave me the courage to give this a go. I have spent the last two days building up the paint on 2 stone chips, today I sanded but the outline of the chip remains in a slightly darker shade of paint, think I may have sanded to much so will add some more paint, sand lightly then try to blend in with polish?.

Does that sound like the best option?, and advice would be great.

Thanks


----------



## swiftflo

After reading how to do it decided to have a go at the BM bonnet today, thats after 2 days filling all the stone chips with paint. Wrapped well wet, wet & dry around a fork handle and got going, um not bad I thought, so out with the Kestrel rotary, menz 3.02 and cutting pad. Still posible to see in places where I have used the wet & dry so will have another go Tuesday with menz 1.06FF & polishing pad and hope for a better finish.


----------



## dajones

ive got basically a key scratch down one of the a pillars. can i use this guide to get rid of them? 
i got a g220 machine what pads/polish should i get

dan


----------



## little john

dajones said:


> ive got basically a key scratch down one of the a pillars. can i use this guide to get rid of them?
> i got a g220 machine what pads/polish should i get
> 
> dan


The technique is pretty much the same just you apply a line of paint rather than a dot


----------



## chaseyersell

*peppered bonnet*

Looking at this guide I am wondering if I have to many fine chips to bother trying to spot them all in and polish out. Serious ones I can have a go at but the others are very small although deep, mostly down to the primer. Looks ok when the car is dirty but when clean and shiny they stick out a mile. Is there anything on the market that will cover them up for a period of time rather than painting?


----------



## Andy_Green

you might consider the Dr ColorChip GB being ran in the Group Buy section, possibly more suited to your situation. LINK


----------



## WILCO-MAN

Great Post. Just Wish I Had The Guts To Try It !!


----------



## pangster

Great post/write up!! - excellent results!!


----------



## greatguy

I have bought 3m 09374 fast cut compound to remove the sanding marks by hand (I haven't started to fill my chips in yet). I have just realised that I should have bought the fine cut (09375), so shall I count my losses and buy the 09375, or just use the 09374 very carefully. I would also appreciate if anyone has had reasonable results following the guide on here to touch in chips on metallic silver paintwork?


----------



## clcollins

Great article, very inspiring, have ordered a kit for my car, thanks for posting your work :thumb:


----------



## Breezy

greatguy said:


> I have bought 3m 09374 fast cut compound to remove the sanding marks by hand (I haven't started to fill my chips in yet). I have just realised that I should have bought the fine cut (09375), so shall I count my losses and buy the 09375, or just use the 09374 very carefully. I would also appreciate if anyone has had reasonable results following the guide on here to touch in chips on metallic silver paintwork?


I think the fast cut you have should be fine are you planning on doing the polishing by hand or machine?


----------



## greatguy

Breezy, Thanks for replying. I was hoping to do it by hand?


----------



## JoeSmith

what if the stone chip has developed some rust. 

Is it ok to sand away the rusty bit till bare metal is seen. 

Then start with the base coat(s) followed by paint coat(s) etc

P.S. I'm looking to buy the "Langka Complete Paint Chip Repair Kit" paint kit.is that one any good.


----------



## Breezy

fast cut plus and fine cut comount are fine to use by hadn they just need to be worked in well.

as for rusty stone chips yes removing the rust is a good way to start but the best treatment for rust wouldbe to use por-15 rust preventative paint as your base.


----------



## Million_S

Looking through this guide I feel like I could well be tempted to have a go on the Mrs skoda where she has actual stone chips!.....can anyone tell me would any of the Paints4u kits be ok for scuffs as well? 

The scuffs are bad enough to look like they cant be polished out although I havnt tried, but on appearance look like they havnt broken the clear coating either! 

I guess what i am not sure of is can i just use the acrylic stage for the scuffs and the actuall kit for the stone chips?


----------



## Paulrs

very good article.

Cheers

Paulrs


----------



## J-1

Good write up this!


----------



## chattan

Excellent


----------



## timster

Going to give this a go the weekend,ordered paint from paints4u arrived next day!


----------



## RichW

Hi, I found this guide through google and decided to follow it for a large scratch on my door.

However, after sanding the paint back, while trying to rub out the sanding marks it looks like I have gone through the paint down to the undercoat! 

I have attached a pic though it's hard to get one in focus.

Could anyone advise what would be the best way to get this looking good again, its now worse than before with scuffs of missing paintwork above the original scratch.

Or can you recommend someone good at this type of work near Stafford? I presume Chips-away are more of a cover-up job?

Thanks.


----------



## isctony

hey, this was great thanks!


----------



## stewea99

Hi,

I've followed the tutorial and have a strange problem.

After applying the touch up paint, leaving it to dry for a day, I then wet sand it back.
But when I do this, it seems to take all the paint back off that I applied the day before.

Now I cleaned the chip before hand with IPA, http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=28994 is that the wrong type?

Its almost like its not going into the chip at all.

Would this also happen if I put to much on at once?

Any tips would be great.


----------



## E30driver

Excellent write up! I've got some stone chips on the bonnet of my E30, so will be giving this a go at some point


----------



## ChrisJD

When filling in a stone chip with the colour, what do you do about adding the lacquer on top?

Sorry if this has been talked about, the thread has become quite long to read all through. At the beginning there was talk of colour with lacquer mixed in, but as I have the colour pens, with seperate lacquer, I just wanted to see what the general thought was.
Do you just add colout and blend in, or do try to apply a thin layer of colour, then add lacsuer on top then blend in?

Chris.


----------



## nortonski

Very useful guide, gonna get a scrap panel to play with frst tho...


----------



## lee530i

Great write up Breezy. :thumb:

Can you tell us how you might do this if you have to add a lacquer coat too? Do you need to apply the top coat & the lacquer & it sand back or do you need to sand the colour layer first then apply the lacquer then sand back?


----------



## lpoolck

How much do you charge? And how far are you from Newcastle :lol:


----------



## Breezy

lee530i said:


> Great write up Breezy. :thumb:
> 
> Can you tell us how you might do this if you have to add a lacquer coat too? Do you need to apply the top coat & the lacquer & it sand back or do you need to sand the colour layer first then apply the lacquer then sand back?


I usually apply the basecoat and sometimes you can get away with just applying that but depending on how the colour is once you add the basecoat the paint will sink into the chip once try then you can add the lacquer on top then flatten back.

I've also tried using some IPA on a cloth to flatten down the paint after drying to avoid unecessary cleacoat removal although i'm stil ltrying to perfect this as its quite easy to remove all of the paint you've just put in the chip!



lpoolck said:


> How much do you charge? And how far are you from Newcastle :lol:


I'm in Reading mate so quite a bit away from Newcastle im afraid!


----------



## amclean

Hello

I'm following this guide to renovate the front bumper which is full of chips. Tonight I went out to start wet sanding using 3000 grit megs paper. I found it took ages just to rub back one repair using the 3000 grit.

The thing is I've literally filled in well over 200 chips in my front bumper so, at this rate, I'll still be rubbing back on Christmas day. Would it be advisable to step up to 2500 grit or even 2000, with either 2500 or 3000 used as I get near to the original clear coat.

I was pleased with the Sonus SFX-1 and SFX-3 which arrived today, very little effort was required by hand to remove the wet sanding marks and return a shine. See photos below

Typical condition of lower front bumper.....










Couple of coats of paint applied and 1 clear coat, prior to sanding.....










Front of bonnet rubbed down prior to polishing (no polishing photos as it was getting dark)









Any suggestions as to 2000 or 2500 grit?

Cheers

Alan


----------



## amclean

Well I've bought 2000 grit so I'll see how it goes. Plenty of soapy water and it should be fine. 50 sheets of 3M 2000 grit for £22 from the local motor factors, that beats the shops.

Update: 2000 grit gets the excess touch up paint off much quicker but it is very hard to polish out by hand using SFX-1. I'll need to try rubbing the worst off with 2000 then finishing with 3000.


----------



## Pablo_2k0

Hello, 
Complete Newbie here. I have just bought a new to me "55" reg car thats peppered with stone chipes across the bonnet. The problem I ahve is that the dealer (Bless them) have filled the chips with touch up paint of a totally different shade of blue. How can I correct this? Would I have to try and dig out the touch up paint first? If so how?

Hope you can help me. 
Thanks in Advance.
Paul.


----------



## Exinferis

Firstly, thanks to Breezy for an excellent guide! I was wondering how to get rid of the chips in my new (to me) Polo. I was going to spend £30 (puls P+P) for a Ferecla chip removal kit until I stumbled on this guide, so thanks, you've saved me about £20!

Just a quick question: I don't have any IsoPropyl Alcohol to hand. Is there anything else I might be able to use to clean out the chips? Something laying around the house/garage? I was going to give this a go tonight as the paint arrived this morning and I'm itching to get it done!

Oh, and something else I was wondering; I've been toying with the idea of colour coding my door handles. I've got a modeling airbrush and I just wondered if anyone else had tried using car paint through a standard airbrush? The consistancy seems roughly the same as modeling paint, but I know it's a different ballgame really! Just a random thought to save me a few squids!


----------



## Drunken Master

Was thinking of taking this job on, is there anything else that can be used polish the sanding marks as I don't own an orbital polisher.


----------



## Pablo_2k0

Exinferis said:


> Oh, and something else I was wondering; I've been toying with the idea of colour coding my door handles. I've got a modeling airbrush and I just wondered if anyone else had tried using car paint through a standard airbrush? The consistancy seems roughly the same as modeling paint, but I know it's a different ballgame really! Just a random thought to save me a few squids!


You should have no problems spraying with an airbrush, it's similar principle to normal spraying. Just make sure you prep your surface correctly and mix the paint to the right consistency. Also of note if your using 2K you will need adequate breathing/ventilation as the gas contains cyanide!!!!!

All the best with it.

Paul.


----------



## Exinferis

Drunken Master said:


> Was thinking of taking this job on, is there anything else that can be used polish the sanding marks as I don't own an orbital polisher.


Elbow grease!  That's what I'll be using too. Good luck!



Pablo_2k0 said:


> You should have no problems spraying with an airbrush, it's similar principle to normal spraying. Just make sure you prep your surface correctly and mix the paint to the right consistency. Also of note if your using 2K you will need adequate breathing/ventilation as the gas contains cyanide!!!!!
> 
> All the best with it.
> 
> Paul.


Thanks for that. It's moddeling airbrush so only uses compressed air. Now I've said that, I've got to find the flippin' thing; haven't used it for years!


----------



## Aimez

Filled my chips last weekend will refill this weekend and then try sanding and polishing a few days after. Am still a bit scared so am trying this on some marks inside the door and other inconspicuous places. Feeling more confident now so many others have tried. Bought some 2500 megs uni grit and sfx 1 as recommended!


----------



## Squips

I gave this ago last night, must admit I was scared as well.

I haven't filled in any chips yet, just wet sanded a few scratches off with meguiars unigrit 3000. It took no more than 10minutes to get the sanding off by hand! Was amazed how easy it brought back the shine!!

I bought this kit by the way http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/sonus/scratch-removal-kit.aspx

I'm going to attempt touching up the stonechips this weekend


----------



## Exinferis

Humm, not sure what I've done wrong here, but after sanding and polishing out the sanding scratches the chip's gone, but I've got 2 little ridges either side of where it was. Must've been something in the sanding stage. I used 2000grit W&D that I got from Paints4u along with the tin of paint. I used Farecla Scratch Remover and it's polishing up a treat! Just not sure what's going on with the ridges. Anyone know how to get rid? Don't want to carry on sanding until I can work out what's gone wrong.


----------



## mellowfellow

Sounds like finger ridges to me , did you use a flat back plate to sand with ? I use a 2inch square piece of wood 12mm thick to ensure sandpaper is always flat and flush to surface.


----------



## Exinferis

Yeah, I used a piece of plastic but I guess it wasn't wide enough. I ran out of scratch remover too so I decided to get the Farecla kit anyway. So will wait until that arrives (hopefully tomorrow) and have another pop at it. 

Thanks mellowflower.


----------



## mellowfellow

FFFFFFFFFFF ellow.......... been called a few things...but never flower........lol


----------



## Exinferis

Urgh, sorry, long day! Brain slip! Thanks mellow_fellow_!


----------



## Aimez

Okay left my paint a week sanded back with 2500 unigrit and spent a long time buffing with sfx1 but can still see the sanding marks, my worst fear has come true! Well some of the marks you cant see but some are still obvious. Am I using the wrong stuff thought this worked? 
Some of it I am happy with but most of it I am not as black metallic paint is so easy to mess up. Got fed up after spending all day cleaning the car then trying again and it not much better. Either I need a machine polisher or an expert help!?
My paint has lacquer separate but if I apply this surely it will over lay the old lacquer and look crap?


----------



## Exinferis

I've been out on mine today too. Got the Farecla kit and have to say it has made it easier. I've still got the little ridges though.  Not sure how I can get rid of them. Any ideas?

Aimez, if you can, get some Farecla Scratch Remover Paste. eBay it if you have to. Or if you've got the money give the kit a go (got mine from Passion Automotive on eBay for £24 posted). You only need a drill to attach the plate to. Works really well for what it is.


----------



## Aimez

May give it a go cheers, actually went out and looked again an hour ago and didn't look that bad actually but under direct light I know it doesn't look how I want it to.
Anyone got any idea of what I should do with the lacquer side of things?


----------



## rasA4

i have a few chips on my light silver A4, are there any particular colours harder to work on than others?
cheers


----------



## Aimez

metallic black!


----------



## mellowfellow

Aimez said:


> May give it a go cheers, actually went out and looked again an hour ago and didn't look that bad actually but under direct light I know it doesn't look how I want it to.
> Anyone got any idea of what I should do with the lacquer side of things?


I always drip the paint and laquer into an old aerosol top then mix it together before touching up using a ****tail stick or number 1 artists brush .

A couple of drips from the brush supplied with paint set and laqeur will suffice.


----------



## Aimez

well already done the chips, I don't think it needs lacquer looking again actually but thanks for the tip!
I was being impatient by the way the sanding marks are going just takes forever by hand! Managed to shift alot of a big scratch on my Dad's boot lid with that sfx1 as he bough some crappy 'scratch remover' from JML that would never work!


----------



## Exinferis

Aimez said:


> ...as he bough some crappy 'scratch remover' from JML that would never work!


Funny you should say that as I was in Poundland the other day and some chap in the queue had bought the £1 tube of scratch remover. I was tempted to tell him it'd be a wasted quid, but then thought I'd avoid the punch in the face! 

No-one have any ideas about how to remove these little ridges? Please?


----------



## Aimez

Exinferis said:


> Funny you should say that as I was in Poundland the other day and some chap in the queue had bought the £1 tube of scratch remover. I was tempted to tell him it'd be a wasted quid, but then thought I'd avoid the punch in the face!
> 
> No-one have any ideas about how to remove these little ridges? Please?


Okay to be fair he never actaully tried it but I know T cut and the like are not abrasive enough for the scratch that was/is there ,it was not through the paint but was wide and obvious looking. Not so much now!


----------



## nj1

cool guide - thanks


----------



## Jessop

I can see a small block and P2000 grit paper on paints4u.. but where to get 3000grit ?


----------



## egon

Are you saying that you mix the paint and lacquer together in one pot, apply then flat back? Or am i understanding this incorrectly?
I have a steelblue bmw E46, similar in style to the OP's bm, and have the same issues..


----------



## spursfan

try this guide. i have and my chips look pretty good:thumb:


----------



## lonterra

mellowfellow said:


> I always drip the paint and laquer into an old aerosol top then mix it together before touching up using a ****tail stick or number 1 artists brush .
> 
> A couple of drips from the brush supplied with paint set and laqeur will suffice.


I have recently been using these applicators for the stone chips. They came with the Dr Colorchip kit I got, and are called "Microbrush". I took the photo next to a ruler and cotton bud so you get an idea of their actual size:










I find them really good to use, as you can hold some paint in the fibres, and then 'roll' it into the chip.

I've now found them Online here, amongst some other places including the 'Bay of E':
http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/glue.html#applicators


----------



## Eeza

spursfan said:


> try this guide. i have and my chips look pretty good:thumb:


Whats in the Zip old boy Its a "File" but I cant open it


----------



## trykkertor

Eeza said:


> Whats in the Zip old boy Its a "File" but I cant open it


It's a doc-file with the following text:


> How to Properly Repair Paint Chips
> The repair of a scratch and a chip are the same. A scratch is merely a chip on uni-directional steroids. The only problem with a scratch is that it takes more time to be able to blend in the new paint.
> Items you need:
> * Touchup or color matched paint
> * Compatible primer - I like Wurth Rustop primer
> * Organic cleaner - P21S Total Auto Wash or Wurth Citrus Degreaser
> * Solvent - Rubbing Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer
> * 3M Imperial Hand Glaze
> * Sanding Block 2000 grit
> * Car wash
> * 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
> * Round undyed wooden toothpicks
> * Large lightweight cardboard boxes (large shoe box or bigger)
> * Several 100% cotton towels
> * New Pencils with unused erasers
> * Rubber glue
> * Several heavy clean plastic cups
> * Roll of quality paint masking tape
> Paint chip repair is a learned skill and should be practiced on an area of the car that is not that visible. The hood and nose are two areas that should be tackled last. Test all cleaners or solvents on the paint prior to usage. Try using the seam underneath the rocker panels. Apply a little cleaner or solvent to a cloth and rub the seam. If you do not get any color on the rag, then the cleaner/solvent should be safe for the paint. If you do get color on the rag, then you may wish to consider another solvent.
> CHIP REPAIR STEPS:
> * 1. At least 24 hours before you want to start, use the rubber glue to attach small 600 grit sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.
> * 2. Step #1: Wash the car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly.
> * 3. Paint chips come in two flavors. The worst case has exposed the bare metal, while the less severe has left the original primer intact. Clean the area thoroughly with the P21S or Wurth Citrus degreaser. If there is rust on the exposed metal, clean off with the pencil eraser. Use a toothpick to gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the chip are secure and not waiting to fall off and destroy your work. This is an optional step! If you do not feel comfortable with sanding or your paint is one of the new clear-coated finishes, you should jump to step number 5. Take a new pencil/sandpaper tool, dip into clean water and put a few drops of water on the chip area. *SLIGHTLY* rough up the chip and a small portion of the surrounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint to "grab" around the perimeter of the chip and not dig scratches.
> * 4. Move onto the next chip and repeat the above. Depending upon the amount of time available, you may wish to tackle 10-20 chips at one time. Try to stay within the area that may be covered by your box(es).
> * 5. When finished sanding all your chips you are tackling at this time apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe each chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Use additional solvent and new area of the rag for each chip. Allow to dry (these are highly volatile and will evaporate quickly with no residue).
> * 6. If the original primer is intact, and "pencil sanding" does not disturb the primer, then skip the next step and go directly to painting (# 9)
> * 7. Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, reclean with the Prepsol, Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the cup. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the chip. Move onto the next prepared chip. If you have finished priming all your prepared chips before two hours are up, cover with a box, taped down with masking tape and go have a beer. The key is to allow the first coat of primer to dry at least two hours. Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that needs primer. Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the level of the primer is *BELOW* the level of the surrounding paint. This is important! Cover and allow to dry for two hours or until dry.
> * 8. Apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow to dry. Repeat for all the chips that are on today's list of victims.
> * 9. If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are using color-matched paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup.
> * 10. Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow the paint into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to use too much paint. Do not redip the toothpick. Use only the amount that will flow from one dip. Temptation to add more paint with each application will be almost overwhelming. Fight it!
> * 11. Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12 times till the depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and covers the roughed up area with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3 coats may not completely hide the primer. This is fine because you have many more coats to go. Fight that urge!
> * 12. The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly upward (a fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with a thin coat of new paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.
> * 13. The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 1 week, and resembles a minute mound on the flat plane of the existing paint. The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. The Finesse Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high spot of the repair. Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are flat and act like a "wood plane" to remove only the elevated areas of the repair. The 2000 grit will not leave scratches.
> * 14. Soak the Finesse Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Put a small drop of car wash on the chip repair. This acts as a lubricant for the sanding block. Then gently "plane" the high spot on the paint. I prefer to "plane" in one direction (usually back to front - drawing the block towards me). If the block dries out, re-wet and continue use. When the new and existing paints are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean the area using a quality car wash and lots of water and then use a quality glaze to restore the high gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don't use a machine on your car, as it deserves to be caressed by hand. Use a machine on your Yugo or SO.
> * 15. When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or applicator pad (don't squirt the stuff on the car) and work in one direction only. Don't go around in circles like dear old dad. Circles are many times the cause of "swirl marks." A front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at least make them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax with a quality hard wax and you are done.
> * 16. Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality Carnauba based wax, try applying it with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers together and use your fingertips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback from your fingers will tell you when the wax has been worked into the paint. If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will know immediately and not grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback and these devil grits become sandpaper. A circular motion of the pad will make a 360-degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle. Thus the front to back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas a circle stands out from any viewing angle.
> If you have any questions or if you need any further information, please feel free to contact the Car Care Specialties.


----------



## simba

trykkertor said:


> It's a doc-file with the following text:


what about applying the supplied laquer with the paint kit that you get in a touch up kit?


----------



## Tom42

Great result ! want to give it a go but dont want to ruin my paint :S


----------



## egon

egon said:


> Are you saying that you mix the paint and lacquer together in one pot, apply then flat back? Or am i understanding this incorrectly?
> I have a steelblue bmw E46, similar in style to the OP's bm, and have the same issues..


Anyone?:tumbleweed::lol:


----------



## Breezy

egon said:


> Anyone?:tumbleweed::lol:


I've tried doing this and the paint just ends up going quite sticky from mixing int he lacquer and its not very easy to apply.

Paints4u do supply the paint with the lacquer pre-mixed and thats fine to apply so it may need a certain type of lacquer to be enabled to be mixed with the base without going sticky and "setting"


----------



## RossyL

trykkertor said:


> It's a doc-file with the following text:


these "Finesse Blocks" I cannot finmd them in the UK.


----------



## Style

would these techniques work for this, though of course realise it's a bit more than a stone chip!

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=1863698#post1863698


----------



## The Beast

Hi Breezy,

I see you did it on a BMW, did you use OEM paint set? The one that came with clear coat paint? If yes, how many layer of paint should I put before using the clearcoat? Or did you only use the paint?


----------



## Guest

Thank you for taking the time to share this...


----------



## Breezy

The Beast said:


> Hi Breezy,
> 
> I see you did it on a BMW, did you use OEM paint set? The one that came with clear coat paint? If yes, how many layer of paint should I put before using the clearcoat? Or did you only use the paint?


You can use the original paint from bmw but i've found in the past when doing touchups that bmw paint can be quite out on colour so would defo recommend paints4u as there colourmatching always seems to be spot on and you have the bonus of having the lacquer mixed in with the basecoat too.

layer wise less is more so dont try and fill the blob in one go apply a small amount usinga ****tail stick, let it try and add more usually 2 applications is enough for the paint to just be proud of the surface, using more paint just creates more work with sanding and flattening out the paint.


----------



## MrJT

I've read through the two really useful threads on this and I can't seem to find an answer to the question I've got...

Which touchup method/paint gives the best results (and is the other significantly easier/quicker!?)

- use basecoat layers then lacquer layers, or
- buy the paint with the lacquer mixed in and just apply the one product?

I can't see that the base-lacquer mix will be any quicker as I'll still have to do as many coats to make it slightly proud of the existing paintwork before flattening it down.

Also, are Paints4U recommended or should I use somewhere else?

Any thoughts/advice would be much appreciated. Cheers!


----------



## Nickos

Paints4u gets my vote.

so does the layer/base mix!


----------



## Amar

Hi Breezy, your an absolute legend. I was going to fork out for a full bumper respray on my Audi S8 but after following your guide and doing one half of the bumper which is all I had time to do for now, it looks brand new. I can't wait to do the other side. I am really impressed and can't thank you enough buddy.


----------



## Ptar64

Amar said:


> Hi Breezy, your an absolute legend. I was going to fork out for a full bumper respray on my Audi S8 but after following your guide and doing one half of the bumper which is all I had time to do for now, it looks brand new. I can't wait to do the other side. I am really impressed and can't thank you enough buddy.


That is some brilliant results :doublesho:thumb:
Will be doing my bumper when the weather gets better!


----------



## [email protected]

thats impressive on the bumper right there

ive got hold of a scrap bonnet to have abit of practise on incase i mess up


----------



## Amar

Someone PM'd me here I think RE my post on this thread. But I can't view it as I have less then 10 posts so please post in this thread instead if possible.
Thanks


----------



## MrJT

Amar said:


> Someone PM'd me here I think RE my post on this thread. But I can't view it as I have less then 10 posts so please post in this thread instead if possible.
> Thanks


Might have been me, probably asking which paint did you use and did you do a separate lacquer layer - your results look amazing!

Gonna get my chips and scratches done when I've got a free weekend - although that's looking like easter now....


----------



## stats696

has anyone attempted doing this on a silver car? Ive got a BMW123 in titanium silver and have bought the paints4u chip kit, however, I am afraid it will stick out like a sore thumb.


----------



## ercapoccia

Can a stone chip be removed without sand paper? I've some 1500,2000 and 3000 i have already use a couple of time on an old car but i don't feel confident to use them on my "new" 147.


----------



## Amar

MrJT said:


> Might have been me, probably asking which paint did you use and did you do a separate lacquer layer - your results look amazing!
> 
> Gonna get my chips and scratches done when I've got a free weekend - although that's looking like easter now....


Hi, my car has a special order colour so I had to get it from Audi. Was only about a fiver but they gave it me free in the end after getting the wrong one three times!
Didn't bother with the lacquer although it did come with some 

Did just pop some Dodo supernatural V2 over it though...


----------



## mu71rd

I'm prepping my car to be sold. It has a few marks where you can see stone chips (they look silver on a black car - so does that mean they've gone through to the steel?)

I'm tempted to just dab some paint into the holes and leave it at that (ie - not proud of the paint work, and no wet sanding). 

Would that be totally kak - or would it hide the marks enough for it not to be too obvious. (we're only talk about about a couple of chips really)

am happy to give the proper repair a whirl if necessary (maybe starting with one on the roof) but i've got a lot of other things to do (like cleaning and polishing it properly), and not much free time, so perhaps that would be a bit over ambitious!


----------



## mu71rd

just to be clear - by 'not proud' i mean not leaving the paint requiring sanding down to be level with the bodywork...

...rather than it meaning "I'm not proud of my car's paintwork"


----------



## Exinferis

TBH if you've not got the time/inclination to do a proper job I'd suggest leaving it as it is. A prospective buyer may see the dabs of paint as an attempt to cover up a problem and if they think that they may ask themselves what else you've tried to cover up. Now, I'm in no way saying that's what you're doing, but that's how people think these days. It'd be better, IMHO, to leave well alone so that the prospective buyer can see the car, warts and all. With a good clean and polish the car will speak for itself.


----------



## mu71rd

thank - i think that's good advice. My personality (like many here I'm guessing) is to get very carried away with things, and want to do everything. 

Ironically, even a good wash and wax has made the car look pretty decent! So i'm going to persevere with the polish, glaze and wax (as it's all good practice), have an alloy refurb and dent removal, and sort out the inside with a steam cleaner.

A few stone chips might not make that much difference (and there aren't really that many to be honest...)

having said that - i am tempted...................


----------



## Guest

Got my Scratch & chip kit from paints for you last week and decided to give this a go. Ive got quite a few chips on the bonnet and a few nicks here and there around the car and a very nasty scratch on the boot lid. I dabbed in the stone chips during the week after cleaning them out with the supplied fluid etc. I also reluctantly filled the scratch with paint; I had a bad feeling about this.....

This morning I felt the paint in the scratch was dry enough for a bit of wet sanding; I made up a spary bottle with 50/50 water and washing up liquid and soaked some 2000 paper. All started well but I son realised that all the paint was coming out of the scratch and soon I was back to square one but with a little less clearcoat. I then decided to at least sand the scratch out as it didnt look too deep........ WRONG
I have now sanded through the clearcoat and fooooked my bootlid good and proper.
Lesson learnt. Haven't felt that gutted in ages.


Anyway, its the smallest panel on the car ( saloon bootlid ) and could prob find a local sprayer to sort it fairly cheaply.

Moral of the (long) story; clearcoat is thinner than you think ! ! !


----------



## Xcase_BMW

Can someone remind me which in order is more less aggressive? (Megs Sandpaper)


----------



## linkin20

thanks for the advice.


----------



## Guest

Xcase_BMW said:


> Can someone remind me which in order is more less aggressive? (Megs Sandpaper)


?? the higher the number the less cut. i.e. 1200 is more abrasive than 2000 etc etc


----------



## GeeTeeEye

Can I ask, how and when is the laquer applied and what is used to apply it ?


----------



## paulr

I did this today on my Titan silver BMW. 

1. Filled in shallow chips with paint, a deeper one with a skim of filler, then paint.
2. Sanded down with 1200. Only did enough to level the chip, no more. A final pass with 3000.
3. Polished with ScratchX.

Perfect, i cant even find the chips now. 

A lot of people ask about laquer. On a couple i never bothered. On a few others i put on a coat. Personally i dont think it matters. The most important things are.

1. Fill the chip so its level. 
2. Give it a good polish afterwards.
3. Only sand enough to level the chip (i read one person levels it with a razor blade) You only want to remove the minimum laquer off your car.


----------



## Dan_cup

thanks for this just used the guide to do a mamonth stone chip i got on front wing off a motorbike.

never tried it before so im chiffed with the outcome, might tackle to smaller ones soon.


----------



## ant_s

have a few stone chips to do on my car, about 5 that i would really like to get sorted, however they have already been slightly filled by the previous owner so would i be able to just apply more paint to the chips now? and also on paints4u, the paint that is pre-mixed with lacquer comes in 100ml, is that not too much paint for a few chips? they have a 30ml kit but that has no lacquer mixed in


----------



## DetailedDave

paulr said:


> I did this today on my Titan silver BMW.
> 
> 1. Filled in shallow chips with paint, a deeper one with a skim of filler, then paint.
> 2. Sanded down with 1200. Only did enough to level the chip, no more. A final pass with 3000.
> 3. Polished with ScratchX.
> <snip>


Paul, did you use the BMW touch up paint/lacquer for this?


----------



## shaqs77

just found a nasty chip on passenger door on my 04 black golf. i think it quite deep. i was considering this

http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=6912
Paints4u Scratch Master Kit

so let me get this right,
1.i would clean the chip with the supplied cleaning solution
2.apply the car paint with the spear applicators. layering until the paint is just below the surface
3.then start layering in the lacquer until it is just above
4.then wet sand to bring it level

can i then use some sonus pads and menz polishes to bring it back to life??

is this correct. i am proper bricking it and just thinking about doing it is making me feel sick!!!!!!!


----------



## Guest

Looks really good. have you ever tried using armofend at all ?


----------



## DetailedDave

shaqs77 said:


> just found a nasty chip on passenger door on my 04 black golf. i think it quite deep. i was considering this
> 
> http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=6912
> Paints4u Scratch Master Kit
> 
> so let me get this right,
> 1.i would clean the chip with the supplied cleaning solution
> 2.apply the car paint with the spear applicators. layering until the paint is just below the surface
> 3.then start layering in the lacquer until it is just above
> 4.then wet sand to bring it level
> 
> can i then use some sonus pads and menz polishes to bring it back to life??
> 
> is this correct. i am proper bricking it and just thinking about doing it is making me feel sick!!!!!!!


A friend of mine used one of their kits, similar to your link, on his metallic blue car. The colour match wasn't so good, but then he established after talking with paints4u that because of the size of the chip (4-5mm), he should have gone with the spray kit. Secondly, although he took things easy (and it was his first time), he wet sanded down to the primer in an adjacent area, so now the problem area is larger.

The only reason I mention these things is to 1) take your time and don't rush it, and if you've got either a scrap panel, or an area not so prominent to practice on I think that would be good preparation. The lesson I learnt was; _little and often_, and, keep all your focus on the chip.

My first few practice attempts were with my rotary with Menz etc, but I've decided to go by hand all the way until I feel comfortable with the profile of the 'fix'.


----------



## shaqs77

thanks for that


----------



## AJA_528i

Just about to start chip removal on my car. Will sterile swabs like used in hospitals proir to injections be ok to remove product and crap from the chip?


----------



## wadoryu

AJA_528i said:


> Just about to start chip removal on my car. Will sterile swabs like used in hospitals proir to injections be ok to remove product and crap from the chip?


maybe. i use a nylon brush mate, not got a small paint brush?


----------



## AJA_528i

If you are doing this guys, wich I am at the moment, Halfords only stock 1500 grit and courser so dont waste a journey by going to them


----------



## Tim186

What i would like to know is once paint has been applied and dried, do you then sand it down level with the paint work, polish, and then apply laquer, or do you level the paint apply lacquer and then polish??


----------



## big ben

the paint used has laquer in it


----------



## Tim186

big ben said:


> the paint used has laquer in it


Thats good to know as i recently sprayed part of my boot having never done anything like it before. sanded the paint down and ruined the whole thing.


----------



## big ben

ah not good!! yeah the paints 4 u pots have laquer in, so a few extremely thin coats, wet sand and polish will do the trick


----------



## Greeners1965

On a similar vein, I've got some paint left over from when my bumper was painted, and I'd like to use it for stone chips.

What ratio of lacquer to paint would I need to add to it.....?


----------



## Morph3ous

Owning a Honda with their notoriously soft paint I had some nasty stone chips, a la...



















Each little speck you see is a seperate chip! :doublesho Bl**dy Honda paint is crap.

Having read through this thread a couple of times I decided to get some paint from Paints4u and have a go at sorting it. I bought the scratch master kit for £14.

Kit arrived and I have to say it was pretty good actually. Well worth the extra few quid to get more application spears and the cleaner fluid.

I have to say I didn't really get on with the little spears, as I found they didn't actually lose paint if you gently pressed them into the chip. This made it quite difficult to apply thin layers. Having looked at the OP's inital photographs I decided I was being too 'dainty' with it and decided to just get some paint down. Applied the first layer and left to dry for 24 hours. I then applied the 2nd, leaving the blob of paint as described. Left another 24 hours and found there wasn't much scope for applying the laquer so decided not to bother. This was largely down to the spears being such a pain.

Then came the scary bit!! Wet sanding...

Got brave and went for it. This is what I ended up with...










Scary isnt it!

As a complete amateur, if I was to offer advice to others in the same boat as me it would be "Go easy!" I used the P2000 wet n dry supplied with the kit and it really surprised me how easily it flatted the blobs out. I mean literally 3-5 seconds of gentle rubbing (with warm water and fairy liquid as lube) and it was done. I got a process going, whereby I rubbed it down, wiped away with a MF to check how I was getting on and so on and so on.
You have to be so careful as its easy to go too far. If I was to do it again I think i'd get hold of some P2500 and see how I got on with that, as the 2000 kept me on edge most of the time. After the first couple I actually found it quite enjoyable!

Once finished I set about correcting the sanding marks with my Kestrel DA. Found this tough going tbh, but that may be down to my lack of experience. Ended up needing two hits with Menzerna PO85RD 3.02 on a white Hexlogic pad to rid of the marks. Finished this off with Menzerna Final Finish (cant remember the numbers!) on a black Hexlogic pad.

Final result is much better...



















Still not 100% perfect but I'm happier.  If I wanted it better I could apply some laquer into some of the chips where there is still a little 'chip' and do the whole sanding/correcting process again but I'll see how I go and how much I notice them.


----------



## Bbarnes

Looks brilliant, im having a go at doing mine this week hopefully.

Seeing that pic of the bonnet wet sanded scares me lol

Ive got some 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit wet and dry.

Hope things go well


----------



## swil00

I gave this a go at the weekend there... well the wet sanding part, since I had built up the stone chips over the past couple of weeks.

The result.... well its ok, but can't say I'm too impressed.

I know it doesn't help without pictures, but the chips are smooth and cannot be felt now, but I can still see the outline of the chip.

What I did:

Mix paint and Laquer
Fill chips gradually, eventually overfilling slighty.
Wet sand using 2500/3000 grit and megs backing pad.
polish up with orbital.

Can't remember the paint supplier source, but seemed a good match prior to wet sanding.... I also ensured that the paint was well mixed before use too.

Better than before, but nowhere near 100%. 

Oh, car is a gun metal blue colour.....


----------



## penaul

Great tutorial will have a go myself now after reading that


----------



## GeeTeeEye

When you guys use your Paint Thickness Gauges to get the paint thickness before sanding, how much are you removing from the surrounding area after sanding on average ?


----------



## sargent

Thankyou for this guide.

Gonna try it on my MG in the next few days.... will post some pics


----------



## BigIan

can anyone recommend a good small backing pad? I'm looking for something about 1" diameter/square.


----------



## C00li0

I will try and get round to uploading some pictures but I gave this a whirl on Audi pearleascent black paint. I just used 3000 grit around a rubber and hand polished with srp and a microfibre pad. Can't see a single one. I have so many plus a scratch I need to do else I wouldn't used a DR to polish out the scratches and will use it when the whole thing is done.


----------



## egon

Well, i made a complete hash of that then. Dear oh dear, when will i learn that stuff like this needs a) skill and b) patience...
Back to the drawingboard...


----------



## TEGBOY

Stone chip filling has caused me many problems, I think the problem is, I over-estimate my skills.

If only they sold cans of skill


----------



## DetailMyCar

I've ordered a Touch up repair kit for both our Golf & Leon so i'm hoping to give it a go in the coming weeks, i'll be taking it very easy and only trying it on a very small section first.

The Golf has quite a few on the bonnet that need doing, and a couple of small ones on the roof just up above the windscreen but the Leon has them round the wheel arches so it'll be interesting to see how it comes out... I don't think it'll look worse even if i don't get it perfect anyway?


----------



## C00li0

Here's some pics. Sorry they're a bit poor but they're taken with a mobile. I had used the all in one tin from paints4u with lacquer included. The car has chips primarily on the bumper and I had tried Lanka and electrolube (on a scratch) previously. Lanka changed the paint colour and I struggled with both to get a decent finishwith the paint always coming out so I decided to give the wet sanding a whirl. I touched up chips a few weeks back and finally got round to wetsanding. The paper had been in soak since then.

I didn't take a before picture but this is the picture after sanding. You can see a cluster of chips that were touched up.










And some afters. I just it a rub with SRP and a microfibre.


----------



## p1tse

not a stone chip, but what do you think i should get, chip ex, paints 4 u touch up pen etc.?
and also how to fill and fix up?

pics don't show it, but it is also slightly dented ;-(


----------



## DetailMyCar

swil00 said:


> What I did:
> 
> Mix paint and Laquer
> ...


Would you mind confirming how much you use to mix?

I bought a complete repair "kit" from Paints4U but it came with seperate Paint & Lacquer so i'm not sure how much to mix in with the paint....

Thanks!


----------



## xmatty

Would SRP do for the polish to get rid of the sanding haze?


----------



## C00li0

I did for me when used by hand with a microfibre pad. When I have done the whole are I will DA it.


----------



## xmatty

I think i'm going to leave it and just get the panels sprayed. My car was keyed so yeah, i saw what happened to a friends car when he tried to wet sand it.. put me right off!


----------



## DetailMyCar

nickg123 said:


> Would you mind confirming how much you use to mix?
> 
> I bought a complete repair "kit" from Paints4U but it came with seperate Paint & Lacquer so i'm not sure how much to mix in with the paint....
> 
> Thanks!


Anyone know on this? I'm really not sure how much Lacquer to mix..... it's a bit annoying really as i thought they were going to send me the pre-mixed stuff.


----------



## sfstu

hi...read loads of this thread but not all..!
gonna attempt a couple of scratches on wifes car..question is, when i wetsand do i sand in line with the scratch/paint or across it..?
cheers, rgds stu


----------



## Jeffers01

sfstu said:


> hi...read loads of this thread but not all..!
> gonna attempt a couple of scratches on wifes car..question is, when i wetsand do i sand in line with the scratch/paint or across it..?
> cheers, rgds stu


Allways sand down the line of the scratch and never across it. Wrap the paper around a square, flat edge to ensure the paint is levelled correctly - something quite narrow, like a rubber eraser we used to use at school!!


----------



## sfstu

Jeffers01 said:


> Allways sand down the line of the scratch and never across it. Wrap the paper around a square, flat edge to ensure the paint is levelled correctly - something quite narrow, like a rubber eraser we used to use at school!!


cheers for reply..:thumb:
gonna have a go tomorrow...gotta say i'm nervous..!!
rgds stu


----------



## p1tse

i also got the paints4u kit paint and lacquer separate with cleaner too

the spears don't last, so anyone recommend a small paint brush?

also it came with a block to allow to wrap the wet sanding paper, but a friend said that the paper is quite harsh so any other recommendations?

i tried to blob the area, but managed to get onto exisiting paint and still not covered the whole depth of scratch, which i will try touching in once the other layer is dried. 

but do i wet sand before the lacquer?


----------



## Alex C

Excellent guide. I may take a leap of faith and try this as my bumper has just been pebble-dashed.


----------



## Jeffers01

p1tse said:


> i also got the paints4u kit paint and lacquer separate with cleaner too
> 
> the spears don't last, so anyone recommend a small paint brush?
> 
> also it came with a block to allow to wrap the wet sanding paper, but a friend said that the paper is quite harsh so any other recommendations?
> 
> i tried to blob the area, but managed to get onto exisiting paint and still not covered the whole depth of scratch, which i will try touching in once the other layer is dried.
> 
> but do i wet sand before the lacquer?


No. You either build the colour up in layers until it's just proud and then sand back level (and polish) and ignore the lacquer stage, or you fill with the colour to just below level and then add lacquer until just proud and then sand the lacquer back to just level and polish. As a further option some have suggested mixing the colour and lacquer together and going for the 1 stage process.


----------



## p1tse

thanks
is the wet sand paper safe from paints4u kit? do i just damp it, wet it, soak it?

checked this morning and gone on to good paintwork around the mark and colour is looking rather dull, but needs another layer to make it sit above the line. 

don't have a small pot to mix and not sure how much to mix. actually the amount i need a contact lens disposble plastic thing which it comes in might be a perfect size to mix it up.

shall i try and take away the excess paint now on good paintwork and if so how?


----------



## p1tse

does anyone know if the supplied paint cleaner will be able to take off excess paint around the edges even if the first coat has been on for 24hours?


----------



## sfstu

p1tse said:


> does anyone know if the supplied paint cleaner will be able to take off excess paint around the edges even if the first coat has been on for 24hours?


i'm trying to do some scratches and chips on the wifes car with this paint/sand method and i too have excess paint around area...its inevitable i think (on a scratch at least) and have accepted that i'll just have to wetsand this part (gently!!).
you asked earlier about the wet and dry paper, you should soak the paper in water and a bit o fairy liquid for an hour at least, i've read on here? as for grade o paper, can't remember what came with kit but OP suggested 2500 grit i seem to remember...thats what i bought along with some 3000...
HTH, rgds stu


----------



## Aimez

http://www.chipex.co.uk/

Another kits comes with some stuff to take off any mistakes


----------



## sfstu

hi guys,need some clarification..:thumb:

once bonnet has been spot painted and wetsanded and you're about to polish, do you use a more aggressive pad/polish combo on just the wetsanded area or do you do the whole bonnet with this before moving up the pads/polish..?

cheers, rgds stu:wave:


----------



## cracker666

Wow amazing work on the bmw


----------



## priceworth

Hi guys, got one of those kits -







and as far as i can tell it has the paint & clear coat (lacquer) am i supposed after filling the stone chip, wait the paint to dry, apply the clearcoat, wait 24hours to fully cure and then wetsand? Cheers.


----------



## priceworth

priceworth said:


> Hi guys, got one of those kits -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and as far as i can tell it has the paint & clear coat (lacquer) am i supposed after filling the stone chip, wait the paint to dry, apply the clearcoat, wait 24hours to fully cure and then wetsand? Cheers.


bump :newbie:


----------



## priceworth

priceworth said:


> bump :newbie:


cmon guys, is that really that hard question?:newbie:


----------



## Jeffers01

If you fill the stone chip fully and then apply the clearcoat, when you sand it back you'll have to take all the clearcoat off to get it flat again. Either slightly overfill the chip with the colour and don't worry about the clearcoat or slightly underfill with the colour, overfill with the clearcoat and sand back. Personally I always leave a few hours between layers (filling will need multiple layers) and 24-48 hours before sanding after the final coat.


----------



## Jai

Finally got my DAS 6 Pro so I can give this a go! Practicing on a scrap panel first though!


----------



## thehulk2002

instead of the 3M Perfect-It III fine cut compound would meguiars ultimate compound do the job ?


----------



## Alzak

Hi

after reading this post I will give a try to this bought a paints4u kit and start to fill some of the chips on my paintwork and there is my question how long I can leave this chips filled with paint before sand paper job ?? 

As I do work late on weekdays so do not have much time to get this done


----------



## Rust.Bucket

Alzak said:


> Hi
> 
> after reading this post I will give a try to this bought a paints4u kit and start to fill some of the chips on my paintwork and there is my question how long I can leave this chips filled with paint before sand paper job ??
> 
> As I do work late on weekdays so do not have much time to get this done


My chips were left for a while (more than a few days) and were fine to do.

I've just done a few small chips by hand before tackling the larger scratches (I intend to document them for others to see how easy it is to do).
Anyone worried- don't be. If I can do it, I'm sure you all can. Just take your time and sand back small bits at a time.


----------



## ½pint

Cheers, pretty simple approach but exactly what I'm after :thumb:


----------



## owenjt

I've tried to do this with a couple of stone chips on my bonnet but the paint looks visibly darker and stands out, even after sanding and using the polisher. Also can still see where i've sanded. What have I done wrong?


----------



## thehulk2002

I have just ordered from www.chipex.co.uk £55.00 including delivery. have a look much better than sanding ect. I didnt want to go down that road as my car is only 1 year old and its got stone chips it cant be helped so I bought this saves money on body shops  :thumb:


----------



## Aimez

Yeh I heard about that from seatcupra.net. I did the sanding method above and was left with sanding marks had to spend ages using a pad and sonus sfx 1 then 2
and 3.
Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## martyp

I tried using the Dr. Colorchips kit on mine but there is no way it is going to cut it. Some of my chips are quite deep and I have some deep scratches on the roof that started to corrode (bit to heavy with a blade when removing glue residue). 

I've cleaned the area up today with a fiberglass pen, kurust then a quick coat of the Dr. Colorchip stuff to protect it but the kit from Paints4U has just been ordered. They didn't have my paint in the list but it shouldn't be rocketscience to find with me giving them the paint code and name.

Didn't want to do wetsanding but what the heck. :lol: :lol:


----------



## paul.sessions

great write up


----------



## aleksb

Excellent write-up, gave me the confidence to try and sort the stone chips on my 306's bonnet. I have ordered the paint from paint4u today and some other bits and bobs from cleanyourcar. Hope we have some dry weather this weekend


----------



## jamesTelf

great pics gave me the confidance to do my three stone chips on my 3 week old car, bloody lorry :devil: just primed and paint the two on the bumper, gonna see how that goes before a do the one on the bonnet.

Cheers


----------



## donwhiteking

Hi, I have followed all the steps indicated here except that I have no access to 3M products. I have tried using Meguiars Ultimate compound, Meguiars Rubbing compound and Autoglym Super Resin Polish (by hand) after the wet sanding stage...even though I could get rid of the sanding marks, I just can't seem to get the touch up paint to blend in with the surrounding paint properly. I can still see the outline of the chip clearly even though the touch up paint is all shiny after the buff.

I have tried about 3 times now on the same spot...everytime I tried harder to rub the compounds on the stone chip to try to blend, I end up rubbing away too much touch up paint even though they have been left to dry for 5-6 days...my car is an audi ibis white...could it be the absence of clear coat? All three attempts were done without using the clear coat. Please advise! Thanks!


----------



## petewadey

Touch ups on light colours especially silvers will never look great. Guessing the outline you are seeing is a grey colour?


----------



## koksik750

Great DIY, and what about paints on japanese cars? I had Rx-8 and was very thin. I have Lexus IS220 now and I have good few stone chips and Im worried about sanding


----------



## nick9one1

What's the pest product to prep the surface prior to painting? I did this a while back and the paint seems to have 'dropped' out of the chips a few months after touching up.
I used lighter fluid, but see the OP used Isopropanol would this be a lot better? ... any other tips for cleaning out the stone chips prior to painting?


----------



## gobrigavitch

Jeffers01 said:


> No. You either build the colour up in layers until it's just proud and then sand back level (and polish) and ignore the lacquer stage, or you fill with the colour to just below level and then add lacquer until just proud and then sand the lacquer back to just level and polish. As a further option some have suggested mixing the colour and lacquer together and going for the 1 stage process.


Thank you. This answered a question I had.


----------



## rockin_uk

Hi
I know the thread has been going on for some time now. Some of the links are not going to certain products anymore.
I am totally new to this, so if poss some help please.
Have about 5/6 scratch marks, just down to the primer/undercoat.
What I'm going to ask might have bee said before - (a lot of pages to sort through).
Can somebody tell me in order of process what to do first and to the end.
Just a one line, and if poss where to buy it on the internet.
No idea of grit sizes, ie. 1500, 2000 etc. if these can be out on the list as to what ones to use first, and the last re: the lacquer. is it in the paint or do it last?

Many thanks for your help.
Garry


----------



## _Kenny_

JUst what I was needing. Going to attempt to wet sand my wife's Corsa and this has given me some good tips. I already have a Vauxhall paint stick and lacquer so will give this a bash, although heard good things about the paints4u kits.

Like Garry, I'm confused over what grit to go for but think 2000 should do the job. Also, not sure if I need to just use the paint stick on its own or also use the lacquer and at what point to use the lacquer? Any advice appreciated.


----------



## anpictum

Excellent read on this thread. Just goes to show what you can achieve if you have the nerve. Fortunately, I have a van to trial techniques out on and I got amazing results with a Halfords touch up kit, some Unigrit 3000 and Menzerna Final Finish on my Tornado Red Caddy.


----------



## phantomx0_1

Great help this thread I have just started the process following this guide my front bumper is chipped in quite a few places so I've spent the last two hrs washing drying then cleaning out all the chips. I have just touched the all in so that's it for now to let the paint set over the next few days. I will get some pics up of the results when it's finished.


----------



## Dan_s85

I gave this a go over the weekend, I didnt use the products mentioned throughout this thread but still pleased with the outcome! I started small as this was my first attempt!


----------



## Yuckky

Dan_s85 said:


> I gave this a go over the weekend, I didnt use the products mentioned throughout this thread but still pleased with the outcome! I started small as this was my first attempt!


Good job !!! did you remove the sanding marks by hand or machine, and what compound. Really have to try this myself, but no access to a machine.


----------



## Dan_s85

I just used Meguiars Scratch Remover from Halfrauds, I done it by hand and I used 1200 paper! I found a little machine that plugs into the cigarette lighter and its far quicker and with better results!


----------



## john89

Great guide, thanks!

Thinking of having a go on the bonnet of a metallic black Leon, completely peppered in tiny chips! Thankfully not very deep, just tiny white dots.

With the chips being so small (most of them less than 1mm) would I be best just to go for the paint with the lacquer already mixed in? I think I'll buy from paints4u based on everything I've read here, and maybe buy an artist/sign-writers brush to touch them in after cleaning.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

:newbie:


----------



## ratboy

Great Guide!


----------



## stolt

spent most of last nigth and the last 10mins reading this thread, very interesting reading. Ive bought the kit from paints4u for two of my cars , one being a pearl black honda. I think this weekend i will correct the swirls in it and next weekend i will atempt the stone chips.
thanks for the guide, if anyone has before and after pics i would like to see more. i'm amazed how good they come out.


----------



## Generaljake

this is great guide thanks


----------



## AndyKay

Had a go at this yesterday. Thanks for this guide - really helped me out:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=3368053

It was seeing that guy on page 24 with his black Honda Civic fully sanded that gave me the confidence to do it.


----------



## stolt

just want to ask another question as i'm going to attempt this tomorrow on my golf. Will the same apply if you are filling a stone chip on a plastic bumper. i assume it would do?

read lots of write ups on the net about this and feel more confident about it, going to take it easy and slowly and see how i go.

thanks
rob


----------



## themainlegend

*R32 MK4 Stone Chip Repair*

Hi guys,

After reading this guide, i decided to give it a go today. Here are the results.

Stone chips filled over 2 days.

























Wet sanding with 2500 grit paper soaked in fairy liquid and water overnight.

































































Some shots after i have buffed with 3M Fast Cut by hand. Hit it a couple of times to make sure the sanding marks were removed.









































































The bonnet and wings look amazing now!!! Absolutely chuffed with the results!! I had some pretty big stone chips but it looks like a different front end now!! Comments welcome!!


----------



## spenstar

Superb themainlegend! :buffer:

i did the same last week using original Touch-up Set for Renault Megane (white) with basecoat but still need of clear lacquer. 
Question is did you used clear lacquer or not? Touchup set info suggest as mandatory.


----------



## SootyNicko

Some great work here, 

Would it be possible to remove 2500/3000 grit marks with Gtechniq P1 by hand?


----------



## stolt

hmm today didnt go too bad, well thats a understatement, let me be a lesson for anyone trying this .

basically because eyars ago we had a bird poo on the car which kind of melted the paint, and after filling the stone chips and then sanding them i had a issue whereas i have gone down to the primer. i suppose this isnt a massicve problem as i was only playing around with this bonnet and i was going to get it into a body shop but lets say i bricking it for the golf. I think perhaps i overfilled the stonechips and obviously sanded too much, strangely enough the chips on the wings and doors came out fine.

I didnt use lacquer perhaps that would have helped!!!

i'll post up some pics..... not sure what to do with the golf, ie even attempt it or just give up and live with the stone chips, body shop wanted £350.00 to do the golf.

anyone know roughly want a bonnet costs to respray as i can imagine it will have to feathered into the wings aswell.

honda paint !!! i know i was warned!


----------



## elppa

This looks great, really want to give this a go on my old 3 series, however the previous owner has already dumped a lot of badly matched paint into the chips on the bonnet, is there any way of clearing this out before applying my shiny new paint from Paint4U?

Cheers.


----------



## minidrifter

hey guys, first post here from the land down under! After reading this awesome guide i decided to attack my BMW 318. Came out pretty well except for these little spots beside the areas i sanded which appear 'flat'. I've included a picture so you guys can see what I'm on about. Im also having troubles completely removing the sanding marks out of the paint, almost all are gone but i can still see some.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Twistedgti

Excellent guide with excellent results. Very impressed with the r32 on this page, what a difference! Will. Be trying this myself soon, only one stone chip but unfortunately someone keyed my door so will give it a go. Only issue I face is metalic paints dont go on soo well by brush.


----------



## flyhalf_Luke

very good tips  useful


----------



## Breezy

Great results here guys :thumb:


----------



## rus00

great guide. Definitely going to try in the future


----------



## s.bailey

I feel I need to add to this post a little experience I have had since reading this and getting all brave.

If you have a white clearcoated car, be aware that it will take you a number of goes to get this as close to 100% as possible.

I read the guide, got the wrong kit from paints4u thinking I would be OK with the smaller 30ml touch up kit with clear lacquer.....no no no no no, jesus what a pain in the ar5e that turns into, my chip had gone down to bare metal, so after treating it to rust protection then 2 thin coats of the white groundcoat, getting a decent amount of thin layers of basecoat but leaving enough room for the clearcoat lacquer proved IMPOSSIBLE!

So I got the 100ml basecoat pre-mixed with the lacquer!! Much easier, but be warned, you need to get a fair few layers on there to blend this in to the surrounding paint....I have on my third flattening now and the next and I think final coat is on and once flattened and polished out i reckon it'll will be about 95% blended which is about as far as I'm willing to go with all the flattening and layering and flattening having gone on.

To surmise, the guide is excellent and certainly gives you all the info on how to do a great job on stone chips (and this can be applied to RDS as well) but bear in mind on white and I would assume all light coloured clearcoats can be hard work, but totally worth it in the end! :thumb:

Cheers


----------



## Jamran

Can some who is in London plz do this for me on my A5? I don't have the machine or anything. Im willing to pay


----------



## ChasesDragons

probably cost you LESS to diy or get in one of those chip removal dent removal vans to come over and get rid of em for yu.

this method takes a lot of time but easier for non-pros (saying that, I screwed my effort up royalty!)

regards


----------



## Ian-83

Anyone know if megs scratch x would be ok to use by hand to remove 2500 grit marks?


----------



## paulzo

hi new to the site and wondering if some one can help i had a scratch on my black cruiser so i decided to fix it with touch up paint i wet sanded it and it look great but i noticed it looks like a dent now well more like a crease when i look at it from different angles can anyone tell me why and what i done wrong and how to fix this as i say paint etc smooth no hang or dip in the repair thanks


----------



## David33

i tried this stone chip removal, but I'm having some trouble... when i was wet sanding the filled up stone chips i got a 'ring' around the paint i applied... why??

so i get a nice filled stone chip, but i can still see, the edge of it... what am i doing wrong??

pics:


----------



## David33

sorry for big pictures


----------



## Moggytom

need to try that on my bumper got a realli bad chip on my green car and can see the black plastic thru it great guide


----------



## Terryd367

I gave the paints4U stone chip/ scratch repair kit ago on my Evo last year after someone decided to key it.

before:









After:

















































unfortunatly due to how thin the original paint on the car was I was only able to put a thin layer of laquar over the base and a year later the scratch is starting to show through again.


----------



## Adrian Convery

For this can someone let me know how the laquer works, I bought the 2 pack kit (paint and laquer off paints4u) and from this I gather that I fill it in with paint over the current level, but what do I do with the lacquer?

Thanks


----------



## james_death

Your much better getting the lacquer pre mixed with the colour that way its uniform for levelling and no fear of going through the lacquer.

Well thats my thinking anyway.


----------



## Moggytom

What's best thing to order off paints4u I need a touch up for my speed blue Ibiza and no sure which kit to order haha


----------



## pharmed

Adrian Convery said:


> For this can someone let me know how the laquer works, I bought the 2 pack kit (paint and laquer off paints4u) and from this I gather that I fill it in with paint over the current level, but what do I do with the lacquer?
> 
> Thanks


As above...!


----------



## Terryd367

QUOTE=Adrian Convery;3909492]For this can someone let me know how the laquer works, I bought the 2 pack kit (paint and laquer off paints4u) and from this I gather that I fill it in with paint over the current level, but what do I do with the lacquer?

Thanks[/QUOTE]



pharmed said:


> As above...!


http://www.paints4u.com/videopage.aspx?VideoID=1


----------



## marc147

Paints for you doesnt do my car colour  dam


----------



## -AndyH-

Has anyone ever had an success with silver metallic repairs? Pics would be welcome 

I know it's really hard or impossible to touch up (metallic bits sink to the bottom) - ever attempt I've ever had has been worse than the original chip/mark.


----------



## Baptist

Just a bit of advice. I have tried this a few time, and although I got rid of the chips, you could see where the lacquer of the surrounding area had changed through sanding, as the light picked up on the repair and it looked quite strange.

Anyone else found this?

I used a block to flat the area off.


----------



## smoothound

After reading this thread from end to end, I felt confident in giving this a go on my graphite BMW 3 series.

I had everything I needed already - IPA, A22 paint, laquer, fine grit wet and dry, SSR1. But seeming as the Paints4u kit had such high praise, I thought I'd order one anyway!

It arrived last week and yesterday, after giving the car a good clean, I set about repairing some stone chips.

I cleaned out the chips, also getting right into some of them with a sanding pen I had also bought, cleaning down with solution provided. All nice and clean, ready for the paint (which I had given a good shake to mix up the flake, even though it's not mentioned in the instructions)

After testing on one out-of-sight stone chip (all looking OK) I went around about half of the stone chips (maybe 30 or so) on one half of the bonnet. All looking OK so far. I figured there was enough paint in each of them, so leaving room for laquer, I left the paint to dry for 4 hours.

Toward the end of the day, I went around each chip and put a blob of laquer on. Well, straight away I was worried. The colour of the paint darkened horrendously, it went almost black. But I figured this was normal and lacquered each one.

Still a bit nervous, I went to bed and apprehensively got up this morning to inspect my handiwork.

The paint hadn't lightened. I have a bonnet covered in almost black spots. What a mess!

I sanded a couple down, but it's no use. It's the wrong colour.

I've just gone around each of the stone chips with a drill bit, taking right down and put a blob into each of the A22 paint I already had. 

Very, very disappointed with Paints4u given the high praise in this thread! Not only a total waste of money, but a poor quality product.

A warning to you all.

EDIT : I was hoping to be able to come back this evening (24 hrs after posting) and tell you all was well again but looks like I didn't get all the paints4u paint out of the chips. I've flatted them all down and now I've got black dots all over the bonnet.

Next stop is the bodyshop to sort this all out! *sigh*


----------



## Devon Wanderer

Great info here. Thanks to all.


----------



## cam73

Why is this post not a Sticky? :thumb:


----------



## giggs

David33 said:


> i tried this stone chip removal, but I'm having some trouble... when i was wet sanding the filled up stone chips i got a 'ring' around the paint i applied... why??
> 
> so i get a nice filled stone chip, but i can still see, the edge of it... what am i doing wrong??
> 
> pics:


I think the edges of the chip have raised because of the winter conditions. Try to sand those edges down first and then apply the paint.

Če me razumeš


----------



## cypukas

Excelent


----------



## Shariain

Might need to give this a try soon. 

Thanks to the op for having the balls to do this and share it with us.


----------



## WildturkeyA5

*Advice please*

Will this method work with my scratch in the picture?

The scratch doesn't seem to be deep, seems like just the white paint has been scrapped off.


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## NeilA

In the first set of pics it looks like the blobs are slightly over the chip and spilt over onto the undamaged paint work? I did mine today, the blob i put in the chips are slightly raised and may have gone onto the normal paint. Does this represent a problem when i come to wet sanding them?


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## aymen_a22

Is there any difference in the procedure when using metallic paint? I was sanded a scratch with metallic black paint and it seems to be dull in comparison to the rest of the paint.

I painted with base coat, then left to dry then wet sanded, polished with scratch remover and then put lacquer on top wet sanded again and then polished that with scratch remover.


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## CrazySquirrel

SootyNicko said:


> Some great work here,
> 
> Would it be possible to remove 2500/3000 grit marks with Gtechniq P1 by hand?


This is exactly what I have just done now, sandmarks using 2000 not 2500 + and I P1 polished it down using chem guys white pad. I should however have done this using hand and not the machine but I got a little carried away


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## john89

Excellent stuff. 
Is it easy to go too far with the wet and dry sandpaper?


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## WhenIwake

john89 said:


> Excellent stuff.
> Is it easy to go too far with the wet and dry sandpaper?


Just keep in the back of your mind that you are sanding off clear-coat on the non touched up paint ...Only take as much as you need! Keep checking, once it is level with your paint stop. try to minimize the area around the painted chip that you hit with the wet/dry .

Remember you are wanting to bring the new paint down to the same level as the original paint surrounding the damage!


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## aymen_a22

I went too far in one small spot on my car.

The patches that I have done that didn't go through look so good though.

I used wet and dry followed by Meguiars Ultimate Compound and then some Aircraft Wax.


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## jassi_hayre

If you don't fancy wet and dry, try a product called Langka. I've just used it on my car and it works pretty well. I should have taken some pictures.

You do pretty much the same thing - 

1. Fill in paint on scratch / chip so it is above rest of paint
2. Allow paint to dry properly
3. Rub down with the Langka product
4. Apply lacquer if required
5. Apply wax / sealant

I found the Langka works better if the panel is warm i.e. in sunlight.


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## Tazgalsinh

hello, I've attempted this method on my 3 series (black) to get rid of some stone chips on the bottom. 

I used paint from the halfords 3 piece kit to fill in the chip (after cleaning with IPA). 

Filled it over a few hours and left it a few days before sanding it. 

Using mag's 2500 sand paper. Loads of water. I got the chips down to what I feel is level. I then buffed with Menzerna polish with a DA to get rid of the paper marks. 

As you can see from the image below the end result wasn't as good as some others in this thread. 

Any advice? thanks


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## aymen_a22

I am not sure what has happened there, it looks like it could be the wrong colour paint.

Did you apply paint AND lacquer if so was it mixed as a paint/lacquer and then applied or was it paint and then lacquer? I am not sure how much this would affect the finish but I am sure someone will assist.


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## Leebo310

Tazgalsinh said:


> hello, I've attempted this method on my 3 series (black) to get rid of some stone chips on the bottom.
> 
> I used paint from the halfords 3 piece kit to fill in the chip (after cleaning with IPA).
> 
> Filled it over a few hours and left it a few days before sanding it.
> 
> Using mag's 2500 sand paper. Loads of water. I got the chips down to what I feel is level. I then buffed with Menzerna polish with a DA to get rid of the paper marks.
> 
> As you can see from the image below the end result wasn't as good as some others in this thread.
> 
> Any advice? thanks


Looks like the wrong colour paint to me too. The fact it's quite a big blob I think is what's making it stand out even more.
On a smaller spot it probably wouldn't be so noticeable. 
Are the three other white specs chips too?


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## pmorg4

I have the usual chips on my bonnet but not sure I've got the skills to do this myself. Do detailers usually do this type of correction and if so what is the going rate to sort a bonnet with light peppering?


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## homemadewoody

Tazgalsinh said:


> hello, I've attempted this method on my 3 series (black) to get rid of some stone chips on the bottom.
> 
> I used paint from the halfords 3 piece kit to fill in the chip (after cleaning with IPA).
> 
> Filled it over a few hours and left it a few days before sanding it.
> 
> Using mag's 2500 sand paper. Loads of water. I got the chips down to what I feel is level. I then buffed with Menzerna polish with a DA to get rid of the paper marks.
> 
> As you can see from the image below the end result wasn't as good as some others in this thread.
> 
> Any advice? thanks


Don't use the laquer just use the touch up paint leave to dry then either sand down then polish back up or just polish it the paint will blend in better, the laquer can discolour over time anyway. 
This is what I do anyway and it works for me. Good luck


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## aymen_a22

Apparently Halfords colours are a very bad match. Paints4u is supposed to be good, prices aren't too bad either. Worth checking main dealers too.


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## Muscleflex

Thanks for this thread!


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## pmorg4

Halfords paints have always been a bit hit and miss colour wise for me.


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## lightningslow

Anyone had any luck with this method on a metallic silver car? I see great results on dark colours but nothing on a metallic silver car which is a pain in the backside to get a decent result on.


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## Muscleflex

Hi all - what is lacquer and do I need it?


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## Emma Fowle

Great Thread! I've bought the Paints4U Scratch Master kit and can only hope for as good results as what you guys have had!

I'm really scared about the wet/dry part, I'm scared I won't be able to get the scratches out from the paper!

My car is just over 2 months old and it's seen better days! (not too many tho!)
2 weeks ago someone reversed into me and left a pretty hefty dent on the rear whell arch, then a week later someone pushed a trolley into the other rear wheel arch and left a dent and scratch and a couple days ago I noticed a big stone chip! ugh :'(

I love my little car but hate looking at it now, it makes me so depressed!


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## Emma Fowle

Also, since the weather in England is crap is there anything I can cover up the stone chip with whilst I'm waiting for the paint/laquer to cure? also can I still drive it whilst it's curing?


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## Sicskate

As long as the weathers dry, it should still set.


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## Emma Fowle

Ok, so I can still drive the car whilst it's setting!?


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## Emma Fowle

So i managed to do some work on the chip over the weekend. However I have put probably 5 layers of paint onto the chip and you can still see the dark metal colour through the paint. I now have no room for laquer layer as the paint goes above the original paint!! Do you suggest starting again and using a primer pen, then paint then laquer?

Thanks

PS my car is white and the chip is right down to metal which is quite dark!


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## aymen_a22

I think that a lot of people would say leave it as just paint. The wax / sealant should protect it well enough and you will get a good shine from the compound/polish that you use.

The theory is that because the chip is so small you will never really notice that there is on lacquer on it.

Someone may correct me if I am wrong.


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## Emma Fowle

So do you suggest using a primer? It's just that the chip is all the way down to metal and the white paint is so thin I would need a hell of a lot of layers so that the dark metal doesnt show through! I have put 5 layers on and it is well over the original paint and you can still see the dark metal!

Here is a picture of the chip with 1 coat of paint on it

__
https://flic.kr/p/15321048815


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## aymen_a22

If you want to put primer then you should be able to get a white primer. That will cover the worst of it before applying the colour.

As your car is metallic I think you might have to put lacquer on it otherwise when you wet sand it you will flatten the metallic particles and it will look dull (even if you polish after).

Again, if it is very small then it will probably not be noticeable and you will be able to get away with just paint however it is up to you.


Also I am not sure how you are applying the paint. It should easily cover the scratches with five coats. Is the paint now above the level of the surrounding paint?


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## Sicskate

Have a look at the guide I made if you need any more help.


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## Emma Fowle

Yes, the level of paint was well above the level of surrounding paint! I have now chipped it all off and going to start again!!

Due to the paint being metallic it is very translucent so the layers of paint just werent covering the chip at all! I am getting a white undercoat so hopefully that should help alot.

Thanks


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## CHALKYUK

Would anyone near Southampton be up for teaching me how to do this as I'm too nervous to attempt it. This could be the excuse I need to get a DAS6


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## OvEr_KiLL

guys can somone help me please. i have chips on the bonnet i also have touch up paint and a laquer from the dealer, i am going to put the paint on the chips let ir dry then wet/dry sand it with 2000 paper but then what can i use, dodo juice need for speed cleaner and wax which has micro abrasives in, would it work? or would t cut color fast liquid work? or do i need something else like a scratch remover paste? and then do the laquer on the top when its dry


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## Adam16

OvEr_KiLL said:


> guys can somone help me please. i have chips on the bonnet i also have touch up paint and a laquer from the dealer, i am going to put the paint on the chips let ir dry then wet/dry sand it with 2000 paper but then what can i use, dodo juice need for speed cleaner and wax which has micro abrasives in, would it work? or would t cut color fast liquid work? or do i need something else like a scratch remover paste? and then do the laquer on the top when its dry


Don't put the laquer on top - from my experience it makes it worse.

I repaired a chip today by wet sanding with 2000, then 3000, then using meguiars swirl x although ultimate compound would be better.

I would try wet sanding somewhere such as the inside door cill (right near to the hinge so it's out of sight) so you can get a feel for it.


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## OvEr_KiLL

Adam16 said:


> Don't put the laquer on top - from my experience it makes it worse.
> 
> I repaired a chip today by wet sanding with 2000, then 3000, then using meguiars swirl x although ultimate compound would be better.
> 
> I would try wet sanding somewhere such as the inside door cill (right near to the hinge so it's out of sight) so you can get a feel for it.


so not use the laquer at all ? and would the t cut color fast liquid be ok for the finish


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## Adam16

OvEr_KiLL said:


> so not use the laquer at all ? and would the t cut color fast liquid be ok for the finish


If it's just a small chip, there is no real need to use the laquer. If you want, you can mix a little in with the paint to give it some extra "strength", just don't put too much in or you will start to effect the colour match.

Make sure you use a ****tail stick or pin, layer it up over time, and let it dry for as long as possible (at least a few days if drying naturally). Be patient, be careful, and don't try to achieve perfection. If you struggle to see it from arms length, then leave it and just walk away.

T-Cut will work, but it's quite aggressive. I would get some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and a hand polish applicator. Make sure to clean the area of the chip of all residue before polishing btw. Also, one last tip would be to tape up around the filled in chip so only the dry touch up "blob" is showing, and then wetsand. That way you can get rid of the majority of the blob without sanding the paint around it. Then remove the tape, and blend it in with the rest of the paint with some 3000 grit, stopping every few strokes to check progress.


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## OvEr_KiLL

thanx but the t cut color fast liquid is useless as it doesnt have abrassives in it aggressive my ****. my car is now ruined with paint blobs all over the bonnet and i dont have anything strong enough to blend it in, yes i could use 2000 grit sandpaper that i ordered to sand it down and then what? what do i blend it in with? 
im going to the body shop tomorrow to see if he can do anything and how much he will charge me...never use touch up paint ever again!


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## ncd

OvEr_KiLL said:


> thanx but the t cut color fast liquid is useless as it doesnt have abrassives in it aggressive my ****. my car is now ruined with paint blobs all over the bonnet and i dont have anything strong enough to blend it in, yes i could use 2000 grit sandpaper that i ordered to sand it down and then what? what do i blend it in with?
> im going to the body shop tomorrow to see if he can do anything and how much he will charge me...never use touch up paint ever again!


Why not pop down to Halfords and get some Meguiars Ultimate Compound? Use it in combination with your 2000 grit paper. It'll far cheaper than bodyshop sorting it out.


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## OvEr_KiLL

ncd said:


> Why not pop down to Halfords and get some Meguiars Ultimate Compound? Use it in combination with your 2000 grit paper. It'll far cheaper than bodyshop sorting it out.


how do i do it? i sand the blobs with the sand paper and then when smooth i use the meguiars and it will blend it with the car paint?


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## Sicskate

OvEr_KiLL said:


> thanx but the t cut color fast liquid is useless as it doesnt have abrassives in it aggressive my ****. my car is now ruined with paint blobs all over the bonnet and i dont have anything strong enough to blend it in, yes i could use 2000 grit sandpaper that i ordered to sand it down and then what? what do i blend it in with?
> im going to the body shop tomorrow to see if he can do anything and how much he will charge me...never use touch up paint ever again!


That's a very narrow minded way of thinking?!?

If anyone's having issues, have a look for the guide I made a while back.


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## OvEr_KiLL

yeh i just did thanx alot sicskate i will be trying out


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## viper1402

im looking to try this soon, however is there anywhere i can buy IsoPropyl in a shop?


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## Will_G

Probably get it in the likes of maplin if there is one near you


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## viper1402

Cool I'll give them a go and what would people reccomend as a polish to use by hand after the wet sand?


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## C9hpro

Breezy said:


> A common sight on everyone's bonnet is stone chips unless you've just had it re-sprayed but even then they are still inevitable!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after spotting a few on mine I thought I would have a go at repairing them after reading a couple of repair guides. Firstly I got hold of some touch up paint from Paints4U you can alternatively just buy a touch up stick from the stealers but for the same price i got a 100ml tin of paint and 30ml clear lacquer which was a perfect colour match too it also came with a fine artists brush.
> 
> I also got some IsoPropyl alcohol to clean out all the dirt, crap, polsh & wax from the stone chips, once this was done i went round filling the chips with paint and making sure the paint filled the chip and not the area around it as this can easily be done if you use a brush thats too thick you need to fill the chip so that the paint is raised over the area of the chip.
> 
> once left to dry the bonnet looked like this with blobs of paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the wet & dry paper I used was Meguiars unigrit 2500
> 
> The next job was to wet sand the blobs of paint down to the same level as the existing paint and the best way i found to do this and keep the repairs to the local area was to wrap a small bit of sandpaper around the end of a flat piece of plastic (aka a bicyle inner tube remover!) or a pencil and gently rub down the raised paint and then level it out with the rest of the surface.
> 
> i used plenty of water with fairy liquid which foamed up nicely and acted as a good lubricant and also soaked the sandpaper in some fairy liquid before hand.
> 
> some nice sanding marks afterwards!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these were easily removed using my porter cable polisher with a "4 lake & country orange light cut pad & Menzerna Intensive polish, the whole bonnet was then followed up with Menzerna Final Finish Polish (P085RD) with a "6 Sonus SFX blue finishing pad and 2 coats of Collinite 476s wax.
> 
> if you don't have a porter cable you can easily remove the sanding scratches by hand using 3M Perfect-It III fine cut compound
> 
> i can't see the chips anymore!


Thanks for sharing


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## duffy02

anyway of getting the pictures back on this thread?


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## james_death

duffy02 said:


> anyway of getting the pictures back on this thread?


Your beholding on the original person who posted the links as it would be there account that the images were held on such as photo bucket etc.

People delete them and so the links are dead or change them and original link code is dead.

Only other way is if someone saved the original post as a PDF.


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## Sicskate

I made a similar thread a few years back, have a little search and see if you can find it


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## Breezy

Thanks for still looking guys can't believe the original post is 9 years old let me see if I can did up the pics and get the links updated


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## Breezy

Links updated the images are back


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## benysound

Great write up


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## fordfocus

Breezy, after the touch up paint and wetsand, can I polish the marks out by using a hand scratch remover? For example scratch x

Thanks.


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## Joel79

Did similar thing to my carbonblack bmw. Used 2000 grit wetsanding paper, polished with rupes 15 mk2 and blue compund and pads and followed with the yellow ones. The problem is that some of the chips didnt level and that there are still visible sanding marks. Other peoblem is that the wetsanded areas now look different compared to original orange peel paint, they almost look like small dents from certain angles. Now i wish that i would have just used chipex or dr. Colorship.

What are my options? Try to sand areas with 3000 or higher and polish again? How about scholl s0 or s2? Or wetsand the whole panels?


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## Sicskate

You should have used a paint shaving block to take the top of the touch in off before sanding.

At this point I'd consider hitting it with 2000 again but on a flat rubber block, but you're running a massive risk of burning through.


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## thedonji

Fantastic write up might be tempted to give it a go once I have some free time thanks breezy

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## Joel79

Sicskate said:


> You should have used a paint shaving block to take the top of the touch in off before sanding.
> 
> At this point I'd consider hitting it with 2000 again but on a flat rubber block, but you're running a massive risk of burning through.


Doesnt sound good. Yeah i wish i would have thought about paint shaving block. Oh well. Hopefully im not screwed. I guess i have to get the paint/clearcoat measured before i do anything more :wall:


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## dal84

Great guide :thumb:

I am going to attempt to do this.

I have 2 touchup pens from Honda, 1 is base coat and the other is clear coat.

Do I apply the clear coat before or after I sand the repair down to the same level as the rest of the paint?

Thanks


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## Sicskate

I've never really enjoyed using the dealer's pens  

For me, they only work on pearlessant colours. 

My advice would be to mix a tiny bit of each together on something hard like an old bank card and see if it dries. 

If it does, just use that method on your car. 

Otherwise, you should add the base colour to the chip, but it should only be a thin layer to cover the lower section of the chip. 

No sanding between colour and clear. 

Once the base colour is dry you can add you clear.


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## dal84

Thanks Sicskate, I will give both methods a try :thumb:


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## Sicskate

dal84 said:


> Thanks Sicskate, I will give both methods a try :thumb:


Have a look at my guide, it's floating around at the moment.


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## mb1

is pO85RD FINAL finish is it a cutting polish


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## steelghost

mb1 said:


> is pO85RD FINAL finish is it a cutting polish


http://bfy.tw/C05t


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## jduan

great guide. thanks!


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## gavin_d

Great results!! Thanks for info!


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## E60525d

Great guide.

Although after reading all 40 pages I can't get a ********** answer if to use lacquer? Some said don't as it will darken the paint and some say mix a little with the paint. But most don't seem to use it. 

What shall I do?


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## markymark34

great guide, thanks


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## cyclopse

E60525d said:


> Great guide.
> 
> Although after reading all 40 pages I can't get a ********** answer if to use lacquer? Some said don't as it will darken the paint and some say mix a little with the paint. But most don't seem to use it.
> 
> What shall I do?


I have tried both without and with lacquer on metallic blue. My experience is that yes lacquer darkens the paint to a degree greater than the surrounding finish. So now I just use base coat with a ****tail stick and built layers so it sits proud. Leave for a couple of days to harden. I wet sand with Meguires sanding block until it's flush. Finish off with one or two sweeps with G3 compound. The results are very good, struggle to see the repair area sometimes.


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## CustardChris

Can anyone suggest where I can get some 2500/3000 unigrit please?...struggling to find anyone having it in stock.
Thanks for any help


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## Frog

CustardChris said:


> Can anyone suggest where I can get some 2500/3000 unigrit please?...struggling to find anyone having it in stock.
> Thanks for any help


I ordered some from Amazon mate.


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## CustardChris

Frog said:


> I ordered some from Amazon mate.


Cheers mate, will have a look there :thumb:


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## Bristle Hound

Sicskate said:


> I made a similar thread a few years back, have a little search and see if you can find it


http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=282300
:thumb:


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## M3_Crazy_Dude

Nice write up and I used this method on my car. On the vertical surfaces (I.e. doors, wheel arches) the repairs are near invisible. 

The issue I have is on the bonnet - despite it all feeling flat and when looking straight on you cannot see the repair, at certain angles in the sun it looks like drips of paint or ‘ripples’ where the stone chips have been done.

Any ideas or is it respray time? Was thinking maybe more wet sanding to level everything but feels iffy...

Thanks


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## Breezy

M3_Crazy_Dude said:


> Nice write up and I used this method on my car. On the vertical surfaces (I.e. doors, wheel arches) the repairs are near invisible.
> 
> The issue I have is on the bonnet - despite it all feeling flat and when looking straight on you cannot see the repair, at certain angles in the sun it looks like drips of paint or 'ripples' where the stone chips have been done.
> 
> Any ideas or is it respray time? Was thinking maybe more wet sanding to level everything but feels iffy...
> 
> Thanks


depends on how many chips you have on the bonnet depending on how many chips they are but usually, if you can see any dips at certain angles where the paint has sunk then it may need some more paint or clear coat to level off.

Original post updated with working pics again too


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