# How do i use Clearkote Vanilla Moose Wax Hand Glaze?



## rudgey (Aug 5, 2009)

Allo all!

I've planning on doing my car with some vanilla moose wax hand glaze to remove the swirls, hollograming and oxidisation! I've got the stuff but now i've realised i don't really know how to use it! 

Heres a few q's

1. Do i really need a paint cleasner? What do u recommend if i do?

2. What should i do to prepare the car before i get polishing? Just a wash and dry?

3. What about the wax already on the paint? There must be some cus all i've done so far is snow foam and a BTBM wash and it's looking pretty damm shiny tbh (altho swirly)! Do i need to get it off before i polish? Fairy liquid?

4. From what i've read the method to the actual polishing is to apply it with an applicator starting with circular motions to spread it then fore and aft motions to do the actual polishing? But how do i know when i've worked it enough?

5. Anything else you think i should know?

Cheers! :detailer:


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## ahaydock (Jan 4, 2007)

Well here;s what I would do:

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Wash/Rinse
4. Polish if possible by hand or machine 
5. Glaze - apply with a MF/Foam applicator, work it into the paint for a short time then buff with a plush MF. As with most products only use a small amount.
6. Wax - do 2x layers leaving 1 hr in between or longer if possible

The Vanilla Moose Glaze will clean of any previous wax. Whilst you will get a nice finish with this product, don't expect it to remove many of the swirls. It may take out some light ones and mask some others but the true way to get a top finish would be a machine polish.

HTHs :thumb:


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## robertdon777 (Nov 3, 2005)

With what you have:

Wash 

Clay (will make hand polishing so much easier)

VMHG (work in until it almost vanishes)

Then by hand I would top with the widely available Megs NXT tech wax (liquid). This will hide many many small swirls, just make sure you really buff this off though as it can look as though you have created holograms in the paint if the residue is left over and not buffed off correct.

To keep looking great you can top up with Megs every month or use something like Optimum Car Wax, which is an easy spray on wipe off product. You can use it on after a wash and it takes about 5-10mins to do a whole car with it.

VMHG is a great product in its own right though as it trim safe and very easy to use but will need topping with some kind of wax.


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## rudgey (Aug 5, 2009)

Cheers guys!

I've got some clearkote carbarura (sp) vannilla wax (think thats what's it called something similar anyhoo) for the wax side of things! Is that ok someone on here recommended it for red cars?

Clay? Hmmm? I see a lot of threds about people being worried about claying? Is it really that scarey? Can you feck up the paint? What clay do you recommend for a noob/my needs/my car (red seat leon mk2)? Is there a claying guide knocking around?

Thanks again!


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## ahaydock (Jan 4, 2007)

If you have the CK wax then use that. The best combo for red IMO would be CK Red Moose Glaze followed by 3x layers of Vic Concours. I got this result after a machine polish with Megs 205:



















More pics and process here: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=114194

As for Clay its perfectly safe - just use plenty of lube and take you time. Head to the guides section as there is a guide to claying. For a noob you cannot go wrong with the Megs Clay Kit or if you already have QD get some Sonus Green (Fine) :thumb:


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## rudgey (Aug 5, 2009)

This one? http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/detailing-clay/meguiars-quik-clay-kit-50g-clay-/prod_226.html

Is it available in halfrauds? With the 3 for 2 offer atm i might just pop down there!

Also i thought the VMHG would remove/fill most of the swirls! What polish should i get to apply before the glaze then (by hand)? I see AG SRP is highly rated in Dave KG's thread, but will this be suitable under the carbanara (sp) wax with it's sealant stuff????


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## rudgey (Aug 5, 2009)

Anyone?


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Re: the claying - sonus green is a popular one for a beginner, and I still use that one now most of the time. It's not at all scary providing you follow a few simple rules and is probably the most effective and worthwhile step you can do to your car (and for very little cost).

Work on a smallish manageable area at a time and use plenty of lube spray to keep the surface wet. This is to allow the bar to slide easily over the surface, obviously, but also so that you've much less chance of dropping the clay on the floor, because if it comes into contact with a bit of paint that's not slick with lube, it will 'grab' and flip out from under your fingers and usually onto the floor. If that happens and it's directly onto the ground, bin it.

I normally place a clean plastic sheet down under the side panels so if I do drop it (which is rare), it's only onto a clean surface; it can then be refolded and still used. I also mould a little vertical section in the clay that I can place between my fingers to grip it.

Keep checking the contact surface regularly and continually refold it to expose a fresh side.

No need to press on, let the bar itself do the work and you'll soon have paintwork as smooth as glass. Don't forget to give the car a quick wash/rinse afterwards as well.

All subsequent detailing steps will be easier as polishes and waxes apply so much better on clayed paintwork :thumb:


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## ahaydock (Jan 4, 2007)

rudgey said:


> Anyone?


Yes that would be a good kit or get this if you have QD already: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/detailing-clay/sonus-green-ultra-fine-clay-refill/prod_327.html

Top advice above BTW :thumb:


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## rudgey (Aug 5, 2009)

Ok thanks guys! I'll get that sonus sampler kit i think! What about using srp under wax tho? Or should i try something else?


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## lingus (Apr 14, 2008)

rudgey said:


> Ok thanks guys! I'll get that sonus sampler kit i think! What about using srp under wax tho? Or should i try something else?


You can't go wrong with SRP under any wax


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