# Recommend a spray sealant



## RoyW80 (Jan 20, 2013)

So my bottle off C2V3 is coming to an end. I al a big GTechniq fan but looking to explore other quality products. Can anyone recommend a different spray sealant to try. Durability is not a concern as I tend to apply monthly after every wash. 

Ta
Roy


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## great gonzo (Nov 4, 2010)

Carpro Reload is a good one especially on black. 
I also like Dodos Acrylic Spritz And Tropical mist. 

Gonz.


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## Lexus-is250 (Feb 4, 2017)

Wowo's crystal sealant is very good. 

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## iCraig (Aug 9, 2017)

RoyW80 said:


> So my bottle off C2V3 is coming to an end. I al a big GTechniq fan but looking to explore other quality products. Can anyone recommend a different spray sealant to try. Durability is not a concern as I tend to apply monthly after every wash.
> 
> Ta
> Roy
> ...


Try Meguiars HCW, its great stuff and the gloss is really good too.

You could even try AG Polar Seal too, if applying once a month,


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

C2V3 is good but not great so there are definitely alternatives. Is this as a standalone product or topper to an existing sealant?

Wowos is a durability monster but not the sort of product you need or want to be applying every month after a regular wash. Just from reading up on it there are much easier products to apply and really it doesn't fit what you're after in all honesty.

If being used standalone, try Kamikaze Overcoat. It's pricey but goes a long long way - has far superior water behaviour and self cleaning than C2V3 and is as easy to use. You can apply it to a wet or dry car too which is an added bonus based on how you intend to use it. I would also recommend the Polish Angel line - particularly Cosmic Spritz.. even nicer to use and my preference but Overcoat works better as a standalone product.


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## ReyIndividual (Jul 19, 2018)

Keeping it simple, how about Sonax Xtreme Bsd?


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## v_r_s (Nov 4, 2018)

Sonax spray seal. Although I got it cheap from ECP about £7. Seems good, Cheap, glossy. Either use as a spray on pressure wash off. Or apply to a wet panel and buff off for longer use.


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## mikerd4 (Oct 27, 2006)

I got some autoglanz prism last week. Have to say im impressed with it so far. So easy to use and gives a lovely gloss. Its also 25% off on autoglanzs wevsite at the moment


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

ReyIndividual said:


> Keeping it simple, how about Sonax Xtreme Bsd?


It'll do 90% of what any other product in this category will do for much cheaper assuming paint slickness isn't important :thumb:


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## Derek Mc (Jun 27, 2006)

Another vote for Wowo's Crystal Sealant, I am hugely impressed so easy to apply and incredible durability


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## Ryan (Feb 18, 2008)

ReyIndividual said:


> Keeping it simple, how about Sonax Xtreme Bsd?


x2 for me.


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

If you're applying it after the wash and might be partial to using it as a drying aid, then Sonax BSD is a very good shout and you will see what the fuss is about. Other wet type application products are also worth looking at, such as Gyeon Wetcoat, Megs Hybrid Ceramic Detailer and Turtlewax’s Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Wet Wax or even Dry and Shine. Quick and easy, and nice to use.

If you were to apply it dry, you could still use Megs Hybrid Ceramic Detailer. Turtlewax's ceramic Wet Wax could also be used, but they also have a 3 in 1 Detailer that would work and their older Hydrophobic Sealant Wax. If you liked C2v3, I think you would like the finish of CarPlan Super Gloss No. 1. You might be thinking - Rosco, why you giving me all these cheap oroducts!? It's because they work and work better than lots of expensive ones!

Word of caution, and it has been mentioned - if you are applying monthly, you don't want to get anything too durable on there otherwise you will just be wasting product and trapping some contamination. That rules out Wowo's Crystal Sealant despite be recommending it at virtually every opportunity. It's too durable for this situation. It could probably be said that Megs Hybrid Ceramic Wax is also a bit much at 1 month intervals along with the Turtlewax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating and even Hydrophobic Sealant Wax. I'm not sure what your base protection is, but that's what these are more aimed at or 3 month top ups, my first list ∆ is designed as the 1 month rejuvenators.

Again, depending on what you have as a base, if it is durable, you should consider Koch Chemise FSe. Works a bit different, but it will ll let your base product shine through.


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## dchapman88 (Mar 17, 2016)

I've recently been using Tac Systems Quartz Max and have been hugely impressed. 
Very easy to apply, just standard spray on, wipe off and buff. 
Beading is great, gloss is brilliant. Overall its really good. 


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

dchapman88 said:


> I've recently been using Tac Systems Quartz Max and have been hugely impressed.
> Very easy to apply, just standard spray on, wipe off and buff.
> Beading is great, gloss is brilliant. Overall its really good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


Not a series of products I've used, but they do seem to produce some good products...

Roughly - duration of the Quartz Max ?


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## dchapman88 (Mar 17, 2016)

Honestly I had never used any Tac Systems stuff before, but my mum decided she wanted Sparkle+ on her new merc (no idea why she chose that) 
But I applied it and topped with the Quartz Max and found it brilliant. 
Now use it on my car and love it. 

They say the durability is 1 month but I've not left it long enough to see. 
I generally top up every 2 or 3 washes, so normally 2 or 3 weeks worth before a top up. 

But it seems a really solid product 

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## President Swirl (Oct 23, 2011)

Tough coat is a superb product. Doddle to use, and durable too.


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## Carscope (Sep 4, 2019)

Been impressed with beadmaker (only used once mind) and turtle wax hydrophobic selaent.


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## RoyW80 (Jan 20, 2013)

Cheers for the recommendations. Plan is to use it on two cars - my wife’s car currently has no protection and mine has gtechniq cs and exo appliesd 2 years ago. Looking for something suitable for both vehicles 


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## Guest (May 16, 2020)

RoyW80 said:


> So my bottle off C2V3 is coming to an end. I al a big GTechniq fan but looking to explore other quality products. Can anyone recommend a different spray sealant to try. Durability is not a concern as I tend to apply monthly after every wash.
> 
> Ta
> Roy
> ...


CarPro Hydro2. I'd say it's as shiny as reload and most other sealants, but its spray on and rinse off. Lasts very well - at least 3 months, and you can get it in bulk.

I messed around with several sealants and toppers and kept coming back to it for sheer ease of use and gloss.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

Given it's something you are going to use frequently, I would rule out Wowo's Crysal Sealant then (although it's an excellent product & very durable). Something like Autoglanz Prizm, Sonax BSD, Britemax Remax or even the cheap TW Hydrophobic Sealant, all easy to use & give good results.

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## Commander2874 (Sep 7, 2017)

I'm very impressed with Turtlewax Sealant hydrophobic wax. Easy to use and the gloss is amazing! 
Beading is also second to none. 

I've used many products like Carpro reload (use on my coated car every 2-3 months)

Done dusted si edition (very good but pricier than turtlewax)

Koch chemie fse (amazing value qd for summer when waterspots can be an issue)

Overall for the money turtlewax would be my recommendation, amazing product which can be used on glass and plastics and best value for money product on the market.

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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Turtlewax on a coated car? Not for me....

Stick with C2V3 or try Reload, Pure, Overcoat, Cosmic Spritz. The latter two are universally regarded as very fine products. Plenty of other suggestions in this thread.

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=416873


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

atbalfour said:


> Turtlewax on a coated car? Not for me....
> 
> Stick with C2V3 or try Reload, Pure, Overcoat, Cosmic Spritz. The latter two are universally regarded as very fine products. Plenty of other suggestions in this thread.
> 
> https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=416873


It's an Si02 based product atbalfour so may actually make a good topper for a coating. Saying that I guess it really depends what else they have in the product as well.

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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Brian1612 said:


> It's an Si02 based product atbalfour so may actually make a good topper for a coating. Saying that I guess it really depends what else they have in the product as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


Didn't realise it had sio2 in it to be fair.

Nonetheless my own view is unchanged. "Would you buy a £150 armani shirt to wear a £10 primark jumper over it?". I have no doubt that this won't be a view shared by all just my 2c worth.


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## Demetrios72 (Jun 27, 2011)

Dodo Juice Red Mist is pretty darn good :thumb:


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## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

atbalfour said:


> Didn't realise it had sio2 in it to be fair.
> 
> Nonetheless my own view is unchanged. "Would you buy a £150 armani shirt to wear a £10 primark jumper over it?". I have no doubt that this won't be a view shared by all just my 2c worth.


Depends on the jumper doesnt it?

I have to agree that the Turtlewax product is extremely good. I would say even more than products costing three times its price.....

Having said that, there's one issue with it. I suppose if you're putting it on a coated car you want something thats a bit of a bead monster. Whilst the Turtlewax product is good, its a heavy sheeter so personally would go with Meguiars Hybrid ceramic wax in this situation. Or use the Turtlewax dry and shine which appears to be another fantastic product but with much better beading


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

No doubting it's good value and very durable. Is it going to boost gloss on highly polished, coated paints? Buy a gloss meter and you'll get the answer, I've seen 3 or 4 sites come to the same conclusion. 

The most reflective elements / ingredients that can e.g. titanium / titania come at a premium. There's a really good thread on gloss measurements on another site showing very few LSPs can actually do anything but dull perfect paint.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

atbalfour said:


> No doubting it's good value and very durable. Is it going to boost gloss on highly polished, coated paints? Buy a gloss meter and you'll get the answer, I've seen 3 or 4 sites come to the same conclusion.
> 
> The most reflective elements / ingredients that can e.g. titanium / titania come at a premium. There's a really good thread on gloss measurements on another site showing very few LSPs can actually do anything but dull perfect paint.


Atbalfour an Armani T-shirt?! Cmon I wouldn't wear one 

I'd agree with regards to gloss but then, I doubt any product will increase GU if the paint is pristine. The evidence I have seen suggests on very good paintwork, 90+ GU you will struggle to get any boosts in gloss from any product which backs up what you say. In every case I've saw onlinr the bare polished paint actually gives off higher GU readings than when coated with something. The GU increases in many reviews only ever come when the paint is in poor condition.

I've no idea if the TW will make a good topper but it's formula suggests it would. I've seen people recommend BSD & Beadmaker as ceramic coating toppers & they are two products I never thought would be suitable for such a task. Apparently both excellent though so it's pot luck whether a product will work as a topper or not.

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## ReyIndividual (Jul 19, 2018)

atbalfour said:


> No doubting it's good value and very durable. Is it going to boost gloss on highly polished, coated paints? Buy a gloss meter and you'll get the answer, I've seen 3 or 4 sites come to the same conclusion.
> 
> The most reflective elements / ingredients that can e.g. titanium / titania come at a premium. There's a really good thread on gloss measurements on another site showing very few LSPs can actually do anything but dull perfect paint.


What's titania?


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

The Hydrophobic Sealant Wax is very interesting in terms of its gloss readings, post application. Looks wise, you would say that the product looked good, slightly darkened the paint, but similar to other similar products. Yet, gloss meter readings reduce it by over 10 units from the pre application readings. This isn't something that is noticeable with the naked eye. Also, it is something that changes depending on how hard the product is buffed or if the product is buffed with water or after a wash. 

For monthly top ups, Dry and Shine would be the better option as it gives the right level of durability.

Anyway, I think the suit analogy doesn't work as a lot of the cheaper products work better that the specific coating manufacturer products, specifically C2v3 and Reload. Cheapy BSD works excellently on coatings, Waxmode's latest video demonstrates this well.


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## noorth (Jul 10, 2019)

Angelwax enigma QED? Usually solid products from what i used. Tac systems shinee wax supposed to be very nice has well.


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

ReyIndividual said:


> What's titania?


I'm no chemist - supposedly it's 'the most reflective material known to man' and some really high end toppers include 30% + Ti22 within them.

In relation to other posts which I don't know how to quote (hopefully not sidetracking the thread too much )) you absolutely can find products that can add measurable gloss above 90 GU highly refined and coated paint. WaxMode or Detailing Gloss Laboratory are putting a bit of science behind the measurement of gloss - that said there are intangibles like depth, warmth that a gloss meter doesn't capture. How much can the eye really pick up I'm not sure... this is probably all in my head!

If I'm topping a coating like CSL and Exo I'd want something as hydrophobic than Exo (for me it's an 8/10 beader so it is possible), with the ability to retain or even better, add to it's gloss or look when fresh.

Why buy a product that can't enhance one or all of the attributes on the car for the sake of protecting the underlying product - this is where I think toppers are misunderstood and boutique brands like Kamikaze/Polish Angel (to some completely extortionate) make their money. But it's a subjective thing and they're the only products I've used that can 'improve Exo' in every way - hence why I'm recommending them over a Turtle Wax or BSD (which does give great water behaviour, the focus of WaxMode's video).


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## ReyIndividual (Jul 19, 2018)

atbalfour said:


> I'm no chemist - supposedly it's 'the most reflective material known to man' and some really high end toppers include 30% + Ti22 within them.
> 
> In relation to other posts which I don't know how to quote (hopefully not sidetracking the thread too much )) you absolutely can find products that can add measurable gloss above 90 GU highly refined and coated paint. WaxMode or Detailing Gloss Laboratory are putting a bit of science behind the measurement of gloss - that said there are intangibles like depth, warmth that a gloss meter doesn't capture. How much can the eye really pick up I'm not sure... this is probably all in my head!
> 
> ...


Thanks for this!


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## noorth (Jul 10, 2019)

atbalfour said:


> I'm no chemist - supposedly it's 'the most reflective material known to man' and some really high end toppers include 30% + Ti22 within them.
> 
> In relation to other posts which I don't know how to quote (hopefully not sidetracking the thread too much )) you absolutely can find products that can add measurable gloss above 90 GU highly refined and coated paint. WaxMode or Detailing Gloss Laboratory are putting a bit of science behind the measurement of gloss - that said there are intangibles like depth, warmth that a gloss meter doesn't capture. How much can the eye really pick up I'm not sure... this is probably all in my head!
> 
> ...


atbalfour, do you know the sio2 and tio2 content of cosmic v2 and high gloss? Is there a spec sheet around? I have both products.

Thanks!


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

I can only see an MSDS for Cosmic Spritz which shows upto 35% sio2, upto 35% ti22. Generally MSDS sheets are very light on detail. PA themselves say that High Gloss has significantly more titania (reflective element) at the expense of some sio2 (main protective element).

Cosmic V2 9H has over 30% titania and over 55% sio2 based on it's MSDS.


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## Al_G (Aug 11, 2008)

Can Cosmic Spritz be used on a naked car in the same was as Kamikaze Overcoat to offer protection and gloss or does it have to be used in conjunction with a ceramic base?

I’m tossing up whether to go for Overcoat or Cosmic Spritz but my daily isn’t ceramic coated (currently washed and C2V3 protected).


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Al_G said:


> Can Cosmic Spritz be used on a naked car in the same was as Kamikaze Overcoat to offer protection and gloss or does it have to be used in conjunction with a ceramic base?
> 
> I'm tossing up whether to go for Overcoat or Cosmic Spritz but my daily isn't ceramic coated (currently washed and C2V3 protected).


It can. Pretty much all coating toppers are versatile and say they give 'ok' durability on a standalone basis too. You'd have no trouble getting 2 or 3 of months or more out of them, Overcoat is definitely a more functional product claims up to 6 months but you'd never leave it that long IMO. Cosmic Spritz is nicer to use and gives a wax-like look - amplifies the colour like nothing else I've used, less noticeable on whites or blacks in my view.

By the way I'm not saying go out and buy these products they are the holy grail - I love them and these things are subjective - for me that extra 5% of performance over what my coating does is worth the price, just in the same way people can justify a high end wax. I couldn't go back to C2V3 having used these, but it does do 80 or 90% of things just as well for much less £.

Also to caveat that there are much more cost effective, hard and chemical resistant products to apply to bare paint. I pay a premium because I don't see the point topping a coating with an inferior product, but on bare paint there are a lot more options that may be a better overall fit depending what you want them to do.

If it's washed every month and topped every 6 I would say go with a more durable sealant or a coating type product like Gyeon Cancoat (amazing).


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## Al_G (Aug 11, 2008)

atbalfour said:


> It can. Pretty much all coating toppers are versatile and say they give 'ok' durability on a standalone basis too. You'd have no trouble getting 2 or 3 of months or more out of them, Overcoat is definitely a more functional product claims up to 6 months but you'd never leave it that long IMO. Cosmic Spritz is nicer to use and gives a wax-like look - amplifies the colour like nothing else I've used, less noticeable on whites or blacks in my view.
> 
> By the way I'm not saying go out and buy these products they are the holy grail - I love them and these things are subjective - for me that extra 5% of performance over what my coating does is worth the price, just in the same way people can justify a high end wax. I couldn't go back to C2V3 having used these, but it does do 80 or 90% of things just as well for much less £.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the great insight, much appreciated.

The cost doesn't put me off, I'm a sucker for trying new products and a big fan of trying to achieve the best results from the products I own.

The issue I have is more associated with time. I own 3 cars and have a young family so getting time to spend a full day on my daily is rare. I do however enjoy washing my car and on average wash my daily every week without fail. I usually get a couple of hours per wash and really enjoy trying to achieve the best results possible.

When I stumbled across C2V3 I was delighted due to the ease of application and the time saving element. I'd otherwise probably pamper my daily with Desire and/or Illusion which I have in the garage but unfortunately I just don't have the time to regularly apply etc.

Based on the above would you go for Cosmic Spritz, Overcoat or something like Cancoat?

My main concern isn't the cost, rather buying a product which isn't fit for my purpose and would therefore be a complete waste.

The car is silver by the way


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

atbalfour said:


> I can only see an MSDS for Cosmic Spritz which shows upto 35% sio2, upto 35% ti22. Generally MSDS sheets are very light on detail. PA themselves say that High Gloss has significantly more titania (reflective element) at the expense of some sio2 (main protective element).
> 
> Cosmic V2 9H has over 30% titania and over 55% sio2 based on it's MSDS.


Those products are also priced like they have straight up diamonds inside too. For what it's worth, mothers CMX has the TiO2 as well as SiO2, probably not to the level of the $100/ml bottles above but it's a great spray coating, and durable enough for a monthly application (it's also slick).

A lot of influencers in the detailing world are putting up these comparisons and showing data that isn't relevant. Gloss units mean nothing without knowing what level is perceivable. Besides detailing, I've had a couple other hobbies, one being photography, the other hoem audio (and headphones if that makes a difference). If I had a lens, that was 5% sharper than another, but I wouldn't be able to tell unless I zoomed in to the pixel level, the differences becomes practically meaningless. Same with audio, if I have a speaker that plays 2dB louder, but humans can't really differentiate volume differences that small, does it really matter? What if I told you that The frequency it's paying at is outside of the humans frequency spectrum?

Not only that, but you're not accounting for human bias, which I'm sorry, is probably the biggest factor involved when people see differences between products. Some products do make a difference, but if someone set up a test where you didn't know what was what, you've never pick them out from the line up.

As for the OP's question, you really can't go wrong with spray sealants and coatings/toppers these days. Google/YouTube some reviews and see what characteristics tickle your fancies and give it a shot. I can recommend quite a few of them but wouldn't know exactly which would be best. I wouldn't factor the monthly update/reapplication either as most of these apply quickly and without much fuss, regardless of durability.


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

Sheep said:


> Those products are also priced like they have straight up diamonds inside too. For what it's worth, mothers CMX has the TiO2 as well as SiO2, probably not to the level of the $100/ml bottles above but it's a great spray coating, and durable enough for a monthly application (it's also slick).
> 
> A lot of influencers in the detailing world are putting up these comparisons and showing data that isn't relevant. Gloss units mean nothing without knowing what level is perceivable. Besides detailing, I've had a couple other hobbies, one being photography, the other hoem audio (and headphones if that makes a difference). If I had a lens, that was 5% sharper than another, but I wouldn't be able to tell unless I zoomed in to the pixel level, the differences becomes practically meaningless. Same with audio, if I have a speaker that plays 2dB louder, but humans can't really differentiate volume differences that small, does it really matter? What if I told you that The frequency it's paying at is outside of the humans frequency spectrum?
> 
> ...


That tends to be the way I think about it too - YouTube is great for showing certain things like chemical durability is a side by side, or beading in a side by side, but gloss? A gloss meter tells a story based on the light (inside or outside), the flatness of the panel and the quality of the finish of the panel, before you even add a product. Waxmode on YouTube (Loach on here and Autopia) has an interesting test looking at gloss measurements. How a product is wiped can affect the numbers so it is not the be all and end all. Plus the camera recording the products won't, with the best will in the world show a difference.

The Hi-Fi angle is also relevant, and I tend to think more of cables. You get the old school audiophiles who say that so and so cables are brighter and so and so are a bit more clear in the mid range. Really? Double blind tests have never found anyone who can tell the difference. As long as the cable can provide the signal to where it needs to go without a degradation of signal (whether it is through resistance for speakers or 1s and 0's for HDMI) then you should be fine.

I think it tends to be the same with protection products. Perfectly polished paint will probably lose gloss when something is on it. Now, is this loss of absolute clarity actually enhancing the subjective optical effect of the paint by adding a wetness or a depth or a shimmer? Probably is. This is where you stop being able to quantify it. It's partly taste, but it's partly all your hard work going "Ooof, that looks good! Glad I spend a lot of money on that!"

Move away from perfectly polished paint (most of us if we are being honest at most points in time) and then things can change a bit. Any contamination for one is a gloss killer. Get rid of that and bang, up go the numbers.

Mainly what the YouTube channels show (mostly Apex Detailing) is what products do to clean, decontaminated and possibly one stepped paint. The camera will show some swirls remaining, but it wont pick up the finer haze which jewelling will get to really pick up the numbers. Here the tests are useful if you're looking for products that can increase gloss on shiny but not properly shiny panels - where the products are providing some filling of the haze for you.

Also though, don't just think about the numbers as in the case of Turtlewax Seal n' Shine/Hydrophobic Sealant Wax. Looks great on the panel, next to other products, you wouldn't say it's not glossy, yet it reads low on a gloss meter. It's strange, but wash it once and the protection will still be fully there, it will look the same ( as far as I can tell) but the gloss numbers will be back where you would expect.

What am I saying? I love being objective, I'm a scientist and I trust science, but I also trust what I see (or hear) right in front of me. Like Sheep said, if those numbers that are being said are given without meaning, then they could have no meaning. So we have to figure out what they mean and the context. The main part of detailing that I love is the learning and theory and this is fascinating. It is clear that the old adage is true, prep and polishing is key, so you have a fundamentally glossy panel to start with. From there you have more options. Then, personally it means more to me what durability, self cleaning and water behaviour the product has, as it's gonna be glossy no matter what.


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

roscopervis said:


> That tends to be the way I think about it too - YouTube is great for showing certain things like chemical durability is a side by side, or beading in a side by side, but gloss? A gloss meter tells a story based on the light (inside or outside), the flatness of the panel and the quality of the finish of the panel, before you even add a product. Waxmode on YouTube (Loach on here and Autopia) has an interesting test looking at gloss measurements. How a product is wiped can affect the numbers so it is not the be all and end all. Plus the camera recording the products won't, with the best will in the world show a difference.
> 
> The Hi-Fi angle is also relevant, and I tend to think more of cables. You get the old school audiophiles who say that so and so cables are brighter and so and so are a bit more clear in the mid range. Really? Double blind tests have never found anyone who can tell the difference. As long as the cable can provide the signal to where it needs to go without a degradation of signal (whether it is through resistance for speakers or 1s and 0's for HDMI) then you should be fine.
> 
> ...


The big issue with gloss units is that they don't "add up". If you have a panel with low numbers, then most LSPs will increase it, but if they panel has a high number, then the LSPs might not move it up at all, maybe even down. The products are only so glossy, they're not going to hit 120 GU on a panel that started at 110. The numbers mean nothing without perspective and relevance, and a lot of people don't understand that about gloss units. Most of us on here know that if you want gloss, you polish the paint. The only time that isn't true for me is with a realllllly bad car, and no time/budget to polish. A paste wax or cleaner wax will definitely scrub off some schmoo and increase the gloss, but that is down to the physical efforts and the cleaners in the wax (all waxes and sealants can clean to a degree, but it's not usually designed to/recommended).


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Sheep said:


> Those products are also priced like they have straight up diamonds inside too. For what it's worth, mothers CMX has the TiO2 as well as SiO2, probably not to the level of the $100/ml bottles above but it's a great spray coating, and durable enough for a monthly application (it's also slick).
> 
> A lot of influencers in the detailing world are putting up these comparisons and showing data that isn't relevant. Gloss units mean nothing without knowing what level is perceivable. Besides detailing, I've had a couple other hobbies, one being photography, the other hoem audio (and headphones if that makes a difference). If I had a lens, that was 5% sharper than another, but I wouldn't be able to tell unless I zoomed in to the pixel level, the differences becomes practically meaningless. Same with audio, if I have a speaker that plays 2dB louder, but humans can't really differentiate volume differences that small, does it really matter? What if I told you that The frequency it's paying at is outside of the humans frequency spectrum?
> 
> ...


The high price has been acknowledged multiple times and everyone's perceived value will be different. With PA in particular, you're paying for intangibles not just the pricey materials within - freshly handmade products, the ease and enjoyment of use.

For me, the chance of human bias is reduced when a product has universally good reviews and a bit of a cult following. It's nice to know that what my eyes have seen, others are also seeing on their cars and the gloss meter is backing up.

I'm not brand loyal and so if I read universally good reviews of a product that better fit my needs - gave me every characteristic I was looking for I would buy it to try whether I needed it or not.


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Al_G said:


> Thank you for the great insight, much appreciated.
> 
> The cost doesn't put me off, I'm a sucker for trying new products and a big fan of trying to achieve the best results from the products I own.
> 
> ...


I really like Cancoat but there is a bit more commitment required, and application though simple isn't as easy as a topper and you need the right curing conditions. If I had a friend or family member's car to do, I could squeeze a thorough decon, one-step enhancement, panel wipe and 2 coats of Cancoat into a dry day.

Cancoat is perfect as it looks great, beads like little else but doesn't need regular upkeep. I've deliberately neglected the misses car and found it to need absolutely no maintenance over and above a regular wash every now and then - this might save you time in the long run.

On the other hand I love applying products and Overcoat or Spritz are just easier and more fun to use and when fresh will give you very similar visual performance, great beading and self cleaning etc.


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## iCraig (Aug 9, 2017)

atbalfour said:


> I really like Cancoat but there is a bit more commitment required, and application though simple isn't as easy as a topper and you need the right curing conditions. If I had a friend or family member's car to do, I could squeeze a thorough decon, one-step enhancement, panel wipe and 2 coats of Cancoat into a dry day.
> 
> Cancoat is perfect as it looks great, beads like little else but doesn't need regular upkeep. I've deliberately neglected the misses car and found it to need absolutely no maintenance over and above a regular wash every now and then - this might save you time in the long run.
> 
> On the other hand I love applying products and Overcoat or Spritz are just easier and more fun to use and when fresh will give you very similar visual performance, great beading and self cleaning etc.


I wouldn't call Cancoat a sealant, more a lite ceramic coating.

The effort required for Cancoat is significantly more than a spray sealant and unless you have the time for a full detail including machine polishing I'd choose something more forgiving.


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## The Sheriff (Jul 15, 2008)

I can't comment on the more expensive sealants like the Polish Angle products (they're obviously good from the reviews), but I will say that the Turtlewax Hydrophobic Sealant is brilliant. Nothing I've ever used leaves as slick a finish as this stuff.
Spray/buff a completely horizontal surface, a MF cloth will still slide off!


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

atbalfour said:


> The high price has been acknowledged multiple times and everyone's perceived value will be different. With PA in particular, you're paying for intangibles not just the pricey materials within - freshly handmade products, the ease and enjoyment of use.
> 
> For me, the chance of human bias is reduced when a product has universally good reviews and a bit of a cult following. It's nice to know that what my eyes have seen, others are also seeing on their cars and the gloss meter is backing up.
> 
> I'm not brand loyal and so if I read universally good reviews of a product that better fit my needs - gave me every characteristic I was looking for I would buy it to try whether I needed it or not.


I understand that polished angel is expensive for more than labelling reasons, but at the same time a lot of the coats could be reduced if they didn't have a hand assembled mantra.

Universally good reviews and a cult following is the last set of circumstances for reduced bias, that's actually where biases are formed. You eyes seeing things doesn't account for or add up to anything without removing the knowledge of what you're using. If you want real, no bias results you need to remove the product knowledge and only use the results. The issue with gloss units and visuals is that you need the panels and conditions to be identical to accurately measure performance, which is very hard using separate panels and paint. Next, you have measuring inconsistencies. The gloss levels change depending on the state of product and when it was applied, etc. Waxmode noticed gloss readings changing after curing and after washing, so what do you use to judge? Lastly, to have the human ability to even discern the difference. A fluctuation of a couple gloss units isn't enough for the human eye to even see the difference, so throwing gloss numbers around without knowing where the difference is accurately discernible is also meaningless.

TL;DR, I wouldn't use gloss units or other "data" from reviews to sway my decision on what spray sealant I bought. Use something more tangible like price range, easy of use, smell, water behavior, heck, even label design. You'll appreciate those far more that how many rounds of degreaser it can handle or if it can hit 95GU on a painted panel that isn't on your car.


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Sheep said:


> I understand that polished angel is expensive for more than labelling reasons, but at the same time a lot of the coats could be reduced if they didn't have a hand assembled mantra.
> 
> Universally good reviews and a cult following is the last set of circumstances for reduced bias, that's actually where biases are formed. You eyes seeing things doesn't account for or add up to anything without removing the knowledge of what you're using. If you want real, no bias results you need to remove the product knowledge and only use the results. The issue with gloss units and visuals is that you need the panels and conditions to be identical to accurately measure performance, which is very hard using separate panels and paint. Next, you have measuring inconsistencies. The gloss levels change depending on the state of product and when it was applied, etc. Waxmode noticed gloss readings changing after curing and after washing, so what do you use to judge? Lastly, to have the human ability to even discern the difference. A fluctuation of a couple gloss units isn't enough for the human eye to even see the difference, so throwing gloss numbers around without knowing where the difference is accurately discernible is also meaningless.
> 
> TL;DR, I wouldn't use gloss units or other "data" from reviews to sway my decision on what spray sealant I bought. Use something more tangible like price range, easy of use, smell, water behavior, heck, even label design. You'll appreciate those far more that how many rounds of degreaser it can handle or if it can hit 95GU on a painted panel that isn't on your car.


I think everyone has a different set of buying criteria otherwise we'd all end up with the same products - I am happy with my rationale and haven't had too many bad, let alone average ones thankfully.

It's not practical for the average hobby detailer to have 10 LSPs to run side by sides, lots of wasted time and money right there. Bar 'reviews' from the same independent professionals who've tried pretty much everything and 'data' from gloss and chemical resistance testing, how else are you meant to weigh up products without buying everything? At least that's applying some consistent logic - regardless of how imperfect that is.


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

iCraig said:


> I wouldn't call Cancoat a sealant, more a lite ceramic coating.
> 
> The effort required for Cancoat is significantly more than a spray sealant and unless you have the time for a full detail including machine polishing I'd choose something more forgiving.


Nobody said it was a sealant...


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## Woodsmoke (Feb 12, 2018)

atbalfour said:


> Nobody said it was a sealant...


Original question was about sealants though?


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Woodsmoke said:


> Original question was about sealants though?


There was a later post about not having a ceramic base to apply toppers to. Cancoat was never a suggestion to the OP. Keep up.


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## Woodsmoke (Feb 12, 2018)

atbalfour said:


> There was a later post about not having a ceramic base to apply toppers to. Cancoat was never a suggestion to the OP. Keep up.


i can't keep i'm old.. really old... and possibly slightly incontinent(or maybe not).


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## DIESEL DAVE (Jul 26, 2007)

Woodsmoke said:


> i can't keep i'm old.. really old... and possibly slightly incontinent(or maybe not).


Young ones today have no understanding of wot its like


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## ian180p (Aug 25, 2014)

Bang for buck I would recommend BSD and Turtle wax Sealant Hydrophobic Wax both great products and you will get plenty of change from £20.


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## Al_G (Aug 11, 2008)

atbalfour said:


> I really like Cancoat but there is a bit more commitment required, and application though simple isn't as easy as a topper and you need the right curing conditions. If I had a friend or family member's car to do, I could squeeze a thorough decon, one-step enhancement, panel wipe and 2 coats of Cancoat into a dry day.
> 
> Cancoat is perfect as it looks great, beads like little else but doesn't need regular upkeep. I've deliberately neglected the misses car and found it to need absolutely no maintenance over and above a regular wash every now and then - this might save you time in the long run.
> 
> On the other hand I love applying products and Overcoat or Spritz are just easier and more fun to use and when fresh will give you very similar visual performance, great beading and self cleaning etc.


Cheers fella!

So out of the 3 (Cancoat, PACS and overcoat), on a silver, unprotected car what would be your product of choice (removing cost and durability from the fold)?


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## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

Lets add Autoglanz Prizm to the list too. It left my car immensely glossy!


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Al_G said:


> Cheers fella!
> 
> So out of the 3 (Cancoat, PACS and overcoat), on a silver, unprotected car what would be your product of choice (removing cost and durability from the fold)?


If you have the time to decon and polish the car to get the paint to a level you'll be happy with for the next 6 months and already have a panel wipe to hand then Cancoat is the more complete product on bare paint. It's straightforward to use but not as forgiving as the other two (you'll need to take your time, ensure you've the right weather conditions etc), thankfully it's not something you need to apply regularly, nor do you need to top it with anything.

In comparison Overcoat and Cosmic Spritz will give you at least a couple of months protection, but they're as easy to apply as a quick detailer, it's unnecessary but you could apply them after every wash - even as a drying aid. If i'd to pick between them to use on a standalone basis I'd say Overcoat. I find Cosmic Spritz is more rewarding on dark cars especially metallic. Overcoat is more reflective though and will probably last a little longer, nowhere near as long as Cancoat though.

As the guys have said above, don't get too bogged down by what will look better, they'll all look fantastic with their own unique characteristics (if you can spot them ha!).

I've used all three products religiously for some time... done maybe 7/8 cars with a bottle of Cancoat, I'm on bottle number 6 of Cosmic Spritz... (not going to do the maths on that) so drop me a PM if you've any questions.


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## dreamtheater (Apr 12, 2010)

What is durability like as I have been looking at this and can find no reviews or tests of durability



Rayaan said:


> Lets add Autoglanz Prizm to the list too. It left my car immensely glossy!


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

dreamtheater said:


> What is durability like as I have been looking at this and can find no reviews or tests of durability


AutoGlanz Prizm - quick review
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...ead.php?t=413380&share_type=t&link_source=app


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## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

dreamtheater said:


> What is durability like as I have been looking at this and can find no reviews or tests of durability


They say up to 12 months. I believe they tested it in the lab and it surpassed 12 months

Realistically I would say 4-6 atleast. It's great stuff


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