# Too much for rinseless wash?



## cornershop (Sep 28, 2007)

Hello peeps,

My Audi s8 is parked outside all week and picks up a variety of layers without it even moving- the joys of living on a busy main road.

The pic below shows what I'm greeted with every weekend, a week after it's been washed and qd'd. ETA - my car nearest the window










Wondering if this is too much for a rinseless wash to work on? I do have access to a water point around the back of the flat, but washing in-situ would be helpful, especially as there is much less shade around the back.

The car had been prepped with BH auto balm, G3 clay mitt, BH cleanser fluid, and BH double speed wax.

On a general theme, do people follow up with a QD after using rinseless? Or is that asking for trouble?

Thanks in advance folks


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## m1pui (Jul 24, 2009)

You wanting to do the rinseless in place of the regular wash or in between?

What is it that it's covered with? Looks like sand or is it just pollen/sap?


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## cornershop (Sep 28, 2007)

I'd be looking to use rinse less more often than not and maybe give it a proper wash every 4-6 weeks or so.


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## cornershop (Sep 28, 2007)

Forgot to add, the layers are just combo of dried rain spots/ sand/ road grime. There are a few building sites nearby so I guess some of it is in the rain.


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## TOMMY_RS (Aug 2, 2010)

I'd say that is way to much for rinse less. Proper wash or nothing IMO.


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## m1pui (Jul 24, 2009)

Agree with Lowiepete. Follow a good technique and make sure you don't skimp on the prespray and you should be fine. I live by the coast and have to deal with sand all the time when I'm washing the cars.


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## cornershop (Sep 28, 2007)

Thanks for the opinions. I'll have a go on the boot as that's already pretty scratched anyway, but should give a gauge in terms of feel for the rest of the car


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## Kimb (Oct 4, 2011)

thats not at all to much for rinseless wash. If you ex. use ONR.
Do a prewash with a spray with ONR solution and then let it soak a few minutes. 
Then wash with your washmedia soaked in a ONR solution. Should be fine. I have washed many cars with ONR that looks like your and even worse. Do a panel at the time and take your time to do it correct, after some washes you can do it alot faster and you will save a lot of water and give you more freedom to wash where ever you want


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## Gavla (Apr 10, 2014)

I live in Central London and have a black car that attracts the same dirt...being a Bilt Hamber fan myself I too have Double Speed as final wax. I rinse my car off with a hose and then wipe with diluted Bilt Hamber Auto-QD. Half an hour max and painless...


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## cornershop (Sep 28, 2007)

Thanks Gavla and Steve.

Gavla - I'd be concerned that a going over with hose would be sufficient to remove these dried on marks but I'll trial it on the boot and see. I think something more 'active' than just water would be needed.

Saying that, if I need to get the hose out, I may as well take the car round the back and go at it properly.

Got a bit trigger happy yesterday on euro car parts and ordered some Meguiars wash anywhere as a trial. Will move onto ONR or Wolf equivalent if I feel the Meguiars is too risky.


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## chongo (Jun 7, 2014)

Lowiepete said:


> The biggest hurdle I've found with ONR is getting over the importance of the
> dwell period. I'll emphasise this when doing demos, but as soon as I ask anyone
> to demo it back to me what do I get? A lesson in spray and wipe :wall:
> 
> ...


Well Steve your right.:thumb: I use ONR all the time, on certain cars. But with the wrong technique and a heavy hand can cause maring and other defects , so having the right mitt / clothes is very important, I deal with a lot of black paint old and new and I've found this to be the case.


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## Gavla (Apr 10, 2014)

cornershop said:


> Gavla - I'd be concerned that a going over with hose would be sufficient to remove these dried on marks but I'll trial it on the boot and see. I think something more 'active' than just water would be needed.


Faire enough...I sometimes use Auto Foam in a trigger spray to help shift dirt... on the sills as an example... When I say hose it down I am assuming you have a hose connector with a "pressure stream" option...


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## m1pui (Jul 24, 2009)

cornershop said:


> Thanks Gavla and Steve.
> 
> Gavla - I'd be concerned that a going over with hose would be sufficient to remove these dried on marks but I'll trial it on the boot and see. I think something more 'active' than just water would be needed.
> 
> ...


What I do is chuck a couple of MF's (just the Kirkland/CostCo ones) into the wash bucket as well as my "tool" (currently flitting between this noodle mitt which cost me like £3 from Morissons and Optimum Opti-Mitt depending on my mood).

After the pre-spray, I use the MF's first to go around the bottom portion of the car where it gets most cruddy. Folded you can easily go around the full car with one cloth, without having to dip back into the bucket, so that dirt is never introduced into the wash solution. Then once the bottom part is done, I just carry on and wash the whole car, bottom parts included, as normal with the mitt. It's like the Garry Dean method, adjusted to suit me.

If you are concerned about the dried on bits, you could do what I do and/or just lay out a wet MF over any dried on areas. A couple of minutes would soften and probably lift off a lot of it when you remove the cloth.

ONR is very very good at what it does.

Do yourself a favour though and don't waste your money on the 8oz bottle. It's much better value to get the 32oz, not to mention that you might waste a bit getting used to it. :thumb:


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## PaulN (Jan 17, 2008)

A quick Pressure wash at a local petrol station will get 90% of that off.... I wouldn't keep doing rinse-less washes once in a while is ok, but id avoid it when sand is involved....


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## cornershop (Sep 28, 2007)

Well the meguiars wash/wax anywhere turned up today but I've realised how expensive that could become to use! Will give it a go regardless but I don't see that being sustainable.

Is there anything better than ONR at this job? I've read it's the benchmark, has anything else come close? wolf mean/green perhaps?

Thanks for the advice m1pui, I guess there are a number of methods to achieve the best finish.

I've just tried rubbing a small 10p sized section of the dusty marks and to my surprise they came off very easily so maybe rinse less could work. It's doesn't feel sandy or gritty, it just looks like road grime brought down in the rain.


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## Sonofaah (Apr 28, 2015)

Lowiepete said:


> The biggest hurdle I've found with ONR is getting over the importance of the
> dwell period. I'll emphasise this when doing demos, but as soon as I ask anyone
> to demo it back to me what do I get? A lesson in spray and wipe :wall:
> 
> ...


Cheers Steve - out of interest what is the best ONR in your experience? I'm looking for a decent amount >10 l

Ta


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

It is very strange why Optimum offers so tiny amount of information about their products. Never haven't seen any good videos where they are showing which you can get most of these products.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

sm81 said:


> It is very strange why Optimum offers so tiny amount of information about their products. Never haven't seen any good videos where they are showing which you can get most of these products.


You make a very good point. Whilst there are many videos of people using ONR etc, the amount of stuff done by Optimum is very low. Whilst I am a big fan of many of their products, their marketing is not that great and a lot of what they do focus on is the USA professional market. Or to put it another way, they make great stuff but lose out by not letting the world know about it.

For example, they have just released a new compound which on paper should be a little stronger than Megs 101 but have put very little effort into telling anyone about it


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## A&J (Mar 4, 2015)

when in doubt try looking at the optimum forum

http://optimumforums.org/

You will find everything you need to know about Optimum products


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