# Help please ! Going to try wet sanding



## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

Hey guys as the title says. I have had 2 resprays on my car, one on the back bumper from a scuff left by an a hole when i returned to my car in a carpark. The other on the front from a dumb ass taxi i watched reverse into my car right in front of me. Both resprays aren't the best at all an i realise this now im more into detailing, they bug me more and more as time goes by. 
The car is a white insignia.

The front bumper respray looks good apart from orange peel 






The section is about 18" x 18".

The back bumper is the worst. It has rough patches of overspray. And what i think are sanding marks that where not refined down enough ?











This section is about half the back bumper.

So is wetsanding the answer for these two problems ?

What kit will i need ?

I only have a das 6 machine. Would i need a rotary ?

Any help welcomed as i have never tried this before


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## Luke M (Jul 1, 2013)

I would first practice wet sanding on a scrap panel. You will need a paint depth gauge and finally be aware that heat dissipation on plastic panels is different to metal ones so polishing will be different.
I know they bug you as is but if you pile in feet first and knacker the panel then that will annoy you more.


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## Guitarjon (Jul 13, 2012)

As said, I'm sure your orange peel will benefit from wetsanding. Also be aware that a large majority of paint gauges won't measure plastic bumpers. As Luke said, watch for heat build up. 

With regards to overspray, try clay and just polish normally. Sometimes things are best left until your more confident. To get confidence you need to practice and reflect over time...

If you do decide to wetsand I'd stay fairly less abrasive and start with 2000 or even 2500 and keep checking. Go slowly. Me personally may start at 1500 and go less abrasive afterwards to remove the peel quicker but slow and steady wins the race.


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## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

Thanks guys. So jon should i start with 2500 and refine down with 3000 and so on then compound then polish ? If results are not good enough i do it again but start with the more aggressive 2000 this time ? Do i have the system right ? 

Also the two psnnels i want to sand are front and back. Both plastic. 

On the back with the scratches (sanding marks ?). After i clay and remove the overspray will a compound take away these marks ? Or do i need s rotary machine ? 

Sorry for so many questions buy im really eager to learn


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

You can do it with your da polisher mate just take your time ! A rotory would be quicker but if your not used to it you could cause more trouble like burning through the paint ! Try to be really carefull on any contour / swage lines and edges as they can rub through twice as quick ! Other than that just dry off with a megs sanding rubber block as you go and wipe with microfibre to check how much clearcoat your removing,also soak flatting paper in hot water for ten mins to soften it up first and put a few drops of fairy washing up liquid in flatting water it helps with flatting ! Good luck and take yoir time bud &#55357;&#56397;


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Before you try sanding i would try (after a thorough claying) using a micro fibre pad on your da. With a slow steady hand movement you will be amazed at what they can achieve on aftermarket paint jobs. Use a smat compound like meguires m105 or m101 so you only need one further finishing set. Its worth a try

Also, remember you have had a poor paint job. You have no way of knowing paint levels or spraying technique. Be prepared ahead of time to need another one if you over step the mark. Its just something you are going to have to accept so you can concentrate on the task at hand


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## Guitarjon (Jul 13, 2012)

As above, you can do it on a DAS machine but they are quite a bit slower. Another good point about any lines on the bumper be careful near thoughs. 

To be honest, having read my advice again I feel you'd be for ever removing the orange peel with 2500. I want to say go ahead with 1500 but I also feel this is probably bad advice for somebody new to it. 
Depending on the polish/pad combo you may be able to remove the 2000 marks without the need for 2500. 

I've found newish vauxhall paint easy to correct. However, I use a more powerful machine. It's probably worth looking into buying some Menz fg400 for removing the sanding marks as it works fairly quickly and finishes well. I'd be refining it with a better refining polish after but make sure when you polish the sanding marks you inspect closely and wipe away any polishing oils as they can mask marks still present. If you find removing 2000 marks difficult then refine more with 2500 and even 3000 if needs be.

A sanding block is a complete must! I don't personally like the meguiars rubber ones as I prefer a deeper one to grip it easier. I use a simple cork sanding block from Wilkos. Ensure its nice and wet and don't press on- this will create unwanted friction and cause further marking/ spoil your paper. Check out ammo on YouTube and junkyard dog. I remember when learning watching junkyard dog wetsand a tiny scratch out of a blue car. It took for ages and really hit home how careful you have to be. Removing clear coat with sand paper works so much quicker than machine polishing ever would which is why it's important to use a depth gauge. Worth watching videos and practicing. But you need to start somewhere so get stuck in.


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## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

Hey matt i have read a few of your writeups. Would you say the microfiber pads and machine are the safer option to try first ? I have been using scholl s30 as my finishing polish. So would scholl s3 be ok to use instead of the meguiars or menz, Then the s30 as last step? Or would i have to use the megs microfiber compound?

I will be on youtube tonight jon checking out those and il see what big mike p has to say lol. 

What would you suggest i get first ?
Some micro pads and a compound ? 

Thanks for the help guys i love seeing your work if i can do half as good as you do and even improve it a little its a bonus to me


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## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

Is there anywhere that teaches the techniques ? Id love to learn


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## billybob9351 (Feb 14, 2008)

return it to the garage and have them rectify it, their QC is clearly crap so lodge a complaint with them and they will be quick to fix it. Custom paint is not like factory especially on bumpers as the high point on any bumper will have far less paint on than on a factory painted one.


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Bigoggy said:


> Hey matt i have read a few of your writeups. Would you say the microfiber pads and machine are the safer option to try first ? I have been using scholl s30 as my finishing polish. So would scholl s3 be ok to use instead of the meguiars or menz, Then the s30 as last step? Or would i have to use the megs microfiber compound?
> 
> I will be on youtube tonight jon checking out those and il see what big mike p has to say lol.
> 
> ...


S3 is a great compound, but not imo for this type of compounding. Where as a smat product like megs run and run with a constant abrasive S3 breaks down quickly, thats how it gets such a good finish
If you want to try the megs feel free to pop over at some stage and pick up or try a little. You will know then if an mf pad will or will not soften it. I don't have masses of time spare but you will certainly know what will or won't get results.

If it needs sanding at least you have a choice of fighting the body shop or cracking on


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## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

Ahhh right. So i could work the megs for longer if needed and the cut will stay the same where as the scholl cut will diminish. 
It would be great to come over some time and get the best advice possible mate. Would give me a bit more confidence before starting. Id repay you for the time with an extra pair of hands if needed .


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Bigoggy said:


> Ahhh right. So i could work the megs for longer if needed and the cut will stay the same where as the scholl cut will diminish.
> It would be great to come over some time and get the best advice possible mate. Would give me a bit more confidence before starting. Id repay you for the time with an extra pair of hands if needed .


Always appreciate the offer, not that my insurance would allow it lol. If you do call over though, and find it useful, may be worth contemplating some training. Basic knowledge of machine handling, entry and exit points, spotting defects and their causes won't make you a pro detailer, BUT will give you confidence and competence to complete multiple cars :thumb:


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## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

Haha mate im also handy with a brush. Where can i find the training mate that would be great to do. Im sure a visit to you, even a quick one would be useful i have seen some your work ! you have a lot of knowledge and experience and share it well.


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Bigoggy said:


> Haha mate im also handy with a brush. Where can i find the training mate that would be great to do. Im sure a visit to you, even a quick one would be useful i have seen some your work ! you have a lot of knowledge and experience and share it well.


We do training buddy, but its one to one at the moment, not in big classes. Its all about covering solid basics, not teaching wet sanding to people who have never machined before. That said, when you understand the basics, its easier to make informed decisions and you will be able to apply it to many situations.

But that aside, i strongly suggest just nipping over and grabbing a few drops of the megs twins and comparing to your current polishes to see whats capable before sanding :thumb:


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Out of interest Matt what sort of money are we talking for some basic tuition? Appreciate that may be one for a PM...


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## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

stangalang said:


> Always appreciate the offer, not that my insurance would allow it lol. If you do call over though, and find it useful, may be worth contemplating some training. Basic knowledge of machine handling, entry and exit points, spotting defects and their causes won't make you a pro detailer, BUT will give you confidence and competence to complete multiple cars :thumb:


I see you do training days on your website. Im having a look before bed. Might just have found my christmas present :buffer: hopefully il be able to pop up soon and get some good advice and see about getting some training booked if im on santas nice list


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## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

MDC250 said:


> Out of interest Matt what sort of money are we talking for some basic tuition? Appreciate that may be one for a PM...


There are prices on website mate


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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Bigoggy said:


> There are prices on website mate


Ha, that would be a good place to start!


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Lol. As above, and not wanting to hijack a thread. But yeah £120 for a full day including lunch. I'm happy to cater for 2 people for a little extra, but no more


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## VenomUK (Oct 13, 2011)

Didn't want to start a new thread as its probably been covered but I cant seem to find the answer to my question. 

I've picked up a car which has got some very horrid orange peal, some of the worst I've seen! 

I want to buy some sanding discs but can see 3M 3000 and 6000 grit paper but cant see any 1500/2000.

Would the 3000 grit be okay to use or will it just take longer using 3000 or am I better off sourcing some 1500 grip papers and using them to take out the bulk of peal?


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## Sicskate (Oct 3, 2012)

Have a look at the mirka range of you cant find what you're after. 

Also, you don't really need to go as far as 6000. 

2000 and 3000 trizact should do.


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## VenomUK (Oct 13, 2011)

Thanks, I was thinking 6000 was a little over kill when most products out there removes 1500/2000


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