# Rust



## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

what do you guys use for rust treatment prevention ?
Im doing a good customers car next week and is very minor surface rust on inside lip of rear arches on a jag xk ?
He had been looking for one for ages snd this was the best he could find and is really nice but needs these 2 arches doing before it gets worse. Now i have read on here about bilt and hamber but not used any so not sure whats best as they do a few products ? I also think i read you may have to apply several coats of the deox gel over a few days ? This wouldn't be practical as i need it done in one day polish the next and out ? Any tips please guys thanks


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

Just looked on website and am i right in thinking hydrate 80 is better for a quick turnaround ? Is it easy to apply and how is it prepped for topcoat ?
We normally use kurust but as said hes a good customer and its a nice car.


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

yeah the deox gel does need a few applications to get it all clean

im no fan of brush on cures , in my opinion it needs total removal , so depending on what it is grinding /wire wheels /sand blasting until its good clean metal otherwise it will be back


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

When we used to warranty corrosion on Mercedes. The method was to shot blast the area so all corrosion was removed, then apply an epoxy primer dried via infa-red or spraybooth, any pits in the corrosion would then be filled then rubbed down trying not to go through the epoxy if you did which in most cases was hard not to. Then apply more epoxy primer dry and prep as you would normally. Just have to check the epoxy your using can be painted over, as Glasurit one was fine to paint straight over, but spies hecker you had to high build over it then paint. 
Id use an epoxy over it as its a sealer, where as a normal high build is porous and will eventually let moisture in. I'm not keen on these rust treatments and bit dubious to if they actually work or not but once rust is there only real cure is to cut it out and weld in new metal.


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

Thanks mate and im with you on rust really,unless you cut it out and replace the metal its gonna return but it is a tiny amount and i think it will be surface only and i have explained to the guy that were just tidying it up and it may/will return and hes well aware as hes had a few tommy cotton jags lol


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

get a ebay sandblaster for what these brush on potions cose


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

What type of sandblaster did you have andy ? Not used one so would it not be difficult to keep it from hitting the rest of the quarters ?


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Scoobycarl said:


> What type of sandblaster did you have andy ? Not used one so would it not be difficult to keep it from hitting the rest of the quarters ?


Cant remember the name of it ill find out tomorrow for you. But it had different rubber connections for the end of it, so you would put it against the rust it would seal around it so you would only sandblast the area you held it against, then sandblast would be recirculated back round again. Just kept moving the gun over the area until corrosion was gone.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

The deox gel can work in about 12 hours for lighter rust. This of course assumes all the rust is visible. Clingfilm really helps the process. One advantage of something like the BH is it simply removes the rust and does not damage paint and does not damage the bare metal.

Some nice pictures here http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=57228&page=3


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

Andyb0127 said:


> Cant remember the name of it ill find out tomorrow for you. But it had different rubber connections for the end of it, so you would put it against the rust it would seal around it so you would only sandblast the area you held it against, then sandblast would be recirculated back round again. Just kept moving the gun over the area until corrosion was gone.


That would be ideal mate much appreciated :thumb:


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

Its a spot blaster and you can get them from machine mart for about 17 quid. You will also need a tub of 80 grit aluminium oxide which is about a tenner.


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## Tintin (Sep 3, 2006)

Deox Gel gets out the pitted rust that you never seem to get to with a grinder or wire brush. It does take time though. I have used Hydrate 80 but only on light surface rust in areas where it won't be seen, like the boot. I think rust will eventually start again if it isn't completely removed, even under a good rust killer like Hydrate 80.

This weeks Aldi specials are a 50l compressor and some air tools. They are doing a blasting pot for £15. You do need a decent compressor to power a media blasting pot though - not sure the compressor they sell will be up to running the tools they sell alongside it. Which is a bit misleading really.


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## Tewkes (Feb 28, 2015)

POR15. 

Google it. Apparently totally kills rust and will never reappear. Amazing reviews from over the pond, especially on YouTube.


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## James_R (Jun 28, 2007)

BH Hydrate 80 is a brush on solution
Wire brush or sand off surface rust first, then apply
It will go on light blue and when cured will be dark purple almost black.

Paint straight over it with a touch up paint if its going to be seen, if not, epoxy mastic 121 or black hammerite

I've done some part on the underside of my car with BH Hydrate 80 and Hammerite topcoat and it is standing up well to the road salt, pressure washing etc.
Seems to get a good bond


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

I will have to top coat the rust repair so can i prime and paint over hydrate 80 as i could with kurust ?


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## James_R (Jun 28, 2007)

Scoobycarl said:


> I will have to top coat the rust repair so can i prime and paint over hydrate 80 as i could with kurust ?


Yes you can paint straight over it :thumb:


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

Cool mate thankyou


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

rich9 said:


> Its a spot blaster and you can get them from machine mart for about 17 quid. You will also need a tub of 80 grit aluminium oxide which is about a tenner.


Cheers bud i will look into one of these


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

Tewkes said:


> POR15.
> 
> Google it. Apparently totally kills rust and will never reappear. Amazing reviews from over the pond, especially on YouTube.


Will look into this too mate thanks


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

POR15 does not kill rust, just seals it over. It's another paint over product. Blasting or deox gel that actually removes all the corrosion is better.

I'd avoid the POR15 as it can be a trouble to paint over, i.e. getting proper adhesion.


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## Gixxer6 (Apr 5, 2014)

James_R said:


> Yes you can paint straight over it :thumb:


I have a question about Hydrate 80, would appreciate some help or advice.

I have a small section of the side of a bonnet that has some rust, light rust on the surface and I'd like to use H80 on it, once sanded and cleaned and the H80 is applied I'll wait 24 hours before priming/painting.

I'm going to use touch up paint but I'd like to know if I should apply zinc primer over the H80 and then apply the touch up paint or can I paint directly over the H80 with touch up paint?


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Tewkes said:


> POR15.
> 
> Google it. Apparently totally kills rust and will never reappear. Amazing reviews from over the pond, especially on YouTube.


Is this really working in longterm?

POR15+Dynax S50+Dynax UB any good?


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## James_R (Jun 28, 2007)

Gixxer6 said:


> I have a question about Hydrate 80, would appreciate some help or advice.
> 
> I have a small section of the side of a bonnet that has some rust, light rust on the surface and I'd like to use H80 on it, once sanded and cleaned and the H80 is applied I'll wait 24 hours before priming/painting.
> 
> I'm going to use touch up paint but I'd like to know if I should apply zinc primer over the H80 and then apply the touch up paint or can I paint directly over the H80 with touch up paint?


I painted my sills this way. (jacking points)
Remove flaky paint, wire brush/sand to remove surface rust.
Apply Hydrate 80 - 2coats 30mins apart
Next day apply 2 coats of colour coded touch up paint (small brush)
Next day apply lacquer top coat (small brush)

Looks spot on


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## Gixxer6 (Apr 5, 2014)

James_R said:


> I painted my sills this way. (jacking points)
> Remove flaky paint, wire brush/sand to remove surface rust.
> Apply Hydrate 80 - 2coats 30mins apart
> Next day apply 2 coats of colour coded touch up paint (small brush)
> ...


Thanks James, I was planning to use similar steps to yours but I've read a few threads where some people suggest a primer over H80 and some mention that it's fine to paint over H80. with no primer.
I'm hoping to get the issue sorted permanently, this will be the 2nd time I'm trying to get the rust removed. I didn't use H80 the first time, I just sanded down to metal then applied a primer that was in a touch up paint kit from Halfords, doesn't appear to be zinc based tough. 6 months later and the paint flaked off and rust returned.


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## James_R (Jun 28, 2007)

Gixxer6 said:


> Thanks James, I was planning to use similar steps to yours but I've read a few threads where some people suggest a primer over H80 and some mention that it's fine to paint over H80. with no primer.
> I'm hoping to get the issue sorted permanently, this will be the 2nd time I'm trying to get the rust removed. I didn't use H80 the first time, I just sanded down to metal then applied a primer that was in a touch up paint kit from Halfords, doesn't appear to be zinc based tough. 6 months later and the paint flaked off and rust returned.


I wirebrushed and repainted around the welded in rear towing eye on the underside of the spare wheel well.
It was a bit of a flaky rusty mess (for a 5yr old car), cleaned up and Hydrate 80'd it with smooth silver hammerite on top and a few months on it is still like it was when just applied.


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