# My plastic pig :(



## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Travelled down to Wakefield to pick up my Rialto here is the first pic. Yes on the hard shoulder of the m62 I think overheated 

Have to get train back home and try round two in a few weeks once it's fixed. Expensive day with all these train fares. Never mind it's been fun. Feel free to take the pi55


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## bradleymarky (Nov 29, 2013)

How far did you actually get..


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

About 15 miles.......


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

but not suprised , M62 :doublesho well what about one of these companies that charge a set amount to take up the road with other loads or mate with car transporter trailer or if your license allows hire the trailer:thumb:
Looks nice though disappointed for you after all the build up i think we jinxed it


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Think I might hire a trailer the Santa Fe will pull it no probs or might get breakdown cover and try again. Seller says he thinks he knows what caused it.


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## STUOOBY (Dec 26, 2012)

might be worth thinking about getting something like AA relay cover.so if you breakdown.they take you and your car ANY WHERE you want. when i got the subaru thats when i bought the policy for the big road trips of the highlands. so now with the porsche its really handy. last thing i want is be at john o groats and something happens and they want to take to the nearest garage 250 miles from home that know nothing about those cars. 

its worth thinking about it bud specially with a car like yours. ive never needed a call out. usually manage to diagnose my self and do a quick fix.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

STUOOBY said:


> might be worth thinking about getting something like AA relay cover.so if you breakdown.they take you and your car ANY WHERE you want. when i got the subaru thats when i bought the policy for the big road trips of the highlands. so now with the porsche its really handy. last thing i want is be at john o groats and something happens and they want to take to the nearest garage 250 miles from home that know nothing about those cars.
> 
> its worth thinking about it bud specially with a car like yours. ive never needed a call out. usually manage to diagnose my self and do a quick fix.


Sound advice something I will be getting. Never had an older car before and in hindsight something I should have hit before I came down.


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

Kiashuma said:


> Sound advice something I will be getting. Never had an older car before and in hindsight something I should have hit before I came down.


Have to admit i had never driven on motorway without cover either with new car built in cover or RAC until i drove down to grimsby before Christmas to pick up a new car though reliable was not keen on going without the cover, but as new car had 2 year cover was pointless


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## STUOOBY (Dec 26, 2012)

ye thats why i bought it. i used to like driving next to new cars so you knew you shouldnt breakdown. but with the subaru being a 7yr old car and the way there driven i thought be a handy thing to have. 

the porsche is 14 yrs old. and that cant be the easiest or cheapest thing to fix. at least you know you can get the car home or to a mates garage.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Derekh929 said:


> Have to admit i had never driven on motorway without cover either with new car built in cover or RAC until i drove down to grimsby before Christmas to pick up a new car though reliable was not keen on going without the cover, but as new car had 2 year cover was pointless


I stupidly thought just been serviced and mot will be fine you live and learn.


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

Kiashuma said:


> I stupidly thought just been serviced and mot will be fine you live and learn.


That's what life is for learning , usually always costly when it comes to cars


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Class. Looks pretty good. Any rust in the body panels?
What was the reaction of the passers by when you broke down?
I hope it is a cheap fix.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> Class. Looks pretty good. Any rust in the body panels?
> What was the reaction of the passers by when you broke down?
> I hope it is a cheap fix.


Back arches are a bit scabby  think it will be a cheap fix. Got a toot and a wave from two smart cars while I had my motorway rest


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## fatdazza (Dec 29, 2010)

Sh1ner said:


> Any rust in the body panels?


Lol - they are fibreglass (hence the nickname "plastic pig") - no chance of tinworm on the panels :lol:


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## Natalie (Jan 19, 2011)

Worth taking out the cover now if you are, I know with mine when it excludes the first X days to prevent people taking out policies when they're already sat on the hard shoulder.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Natalie said:


> Worth taking out the cover now if you are, I know with mine when it excludes the first X days to prevent people taking out policies when they're already sat on the hard shoulder.


Cheers going to sort tomorrow and won't get down to pick it up for a couple of weeks so all should ok


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## J1ODY A (Nov 28, 2008)

Did you just put it in your pocket?


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Ha ha yep in my rucksack


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## m1pui (Jul 24, 2009)

Derekh929 said:


> but not suprised , M62 :doublesho well what about one of these companies that charge a set amount to take up the road with other loads or mate with car transporter trailer or if your license allows hire the trailer:thumb:
> Looks nice though disappointed for you after all the build up i think we jinxed it


https://www.shiply.com ? 

Might work out cheaper than hiring a trailer and fuel to get i


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Did round 2 yesterday, did'nt go well. Car was running really really well, oil pressure good, temp good, then out of the blue a really bad knocking from the top of the engine.

Could have happened at a worse place as i was going onto a bridge near middlesburgh, lost all power and i just managed to get over to the side.
Luckly the police were great and came in about 5 mins and the wreckers in about 15 mins and i was taken home.

Think its the head gasket thats gone but im going to get rid, not putting any more money into it. Shame as i like the idea by hey ho there you go.

Bye Bye resin rocket


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## Natalie (Jan 19, 2011)

aw no


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Gheezer said:


> If you hire a trailor remember to get a full flat bed and not two flats with a gap!
> 
> Been there done that a very long time ago. Then it wouldn't fit on any of the lifts so had to get all old school with jacks etc!
> 
> Good luck!


Its home now mate, wrecker recovered it as i have full breakdown cover, just need to get rid of it now :lol:


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

It is a really simple easily repaired engine with easily available parts. It might be worth having it properly looked at as I doubt it will be too expensive to repair and if the repair is less than the loss because it is not running then it is worthwhile fixing. Shame to can it, as you have come this far.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> It is a really simple easily repaired engine with easily available parts. It might be worth having it properly looked at as I doubt it will be too expensive to repair and if the repair is less than the loss because it is not running then it is worthwhile fixing. Shame to can it, as you have come this far.


I wish i had the knowledge to fix it myself. When i got it home i checked the radiator and oil, as i did before i set off. The radiator was full of "mayo" and on the dipstick too, so i suspect the headgasket is gone.

My only worry is the damage that was caused when this went as the top end noise was really bad for about 10 seconds before i got it in to the side of the road.


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Have you started it again since you got it back home to see if it is still noisy?
Are you at all handy with a spanner and socket set? Access is a bit restricted but it really is a simple engine to learn on. 
If it is just a head gasket any competant local mechanic should have it off and on in two or three hours. I would allow for having the valves checked and recut if necessary and the head refaced (must do) as well.
It could be worth having a look at the Reliant website and see if there is someone close to you, who can assist. www.reliantownersclub.co.uk/rialto.html.
There is always the option of a replacement engine which would take about as long as changing the head gasket. It requires some different facilities but again is not a difficult job.
You have put so much effort into this it seems a shame to stop now.


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## Method Man (Aug 28, 2009)

Just put it on the barbecue and watch it melt away :thumb:


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> Have you started it again since you got it back home to see if it is still noisy?
> Are you at all handy with a spanner and socket set? Access is a bit restricted but it really is a simple engine to learn on.
> If it is just a head gasket any competant local mechanic should have it off and on in two or three hours. I would allow for having the valves checked and recut if necessary and the head refaced (must do) as well.
> It could be worth having a look at the Reliant website and see if there is someone close to you, who can assist. www.reliantownersclub.co.uk/rialto.html.
> ...


Cheers mate, i would love to learn to be honest, i will have a look on the website and see if someone local can lead a hand.

I have not tried to start it, do you think i should, worried i cause anymore damage?

I think we may have to save the resin rocket after all


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Method Man said:


> Just put it on the barbecue and watch it melt away :thumb:


No chance, its got £20 of petrol in it :lol:


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Kiashuma said:


> Cheers mate, i would love to learn to be honest, i will have a look on the website and see if someone local can lead a hand.
> 
> I have not tried to start it, do you think i should, worried i cause anymore damage?
> 
> I think we may have to save the resin rocket after all


I doubt you will do any more damage. There will be no harm in starting it and just checking. When engines get hot they can make some strange noises sometimes you are lucky and sometimes not but you may as well find out and lets us know. If it makes some odd noises you can always turn it off.
As a guide top end noise is generally tapping. a light knocking that rises and falls with rpm could be a little end noise and a heavy knocking a big end.
The mayonaise points towards head gasket failure but to find the extent to which it has failed will require removal of the head anyway.
For the future. Remember, if you do take the head of leave one bolt in and twist the head from side to side to break the join between liners and head and then remove. Don't just pull the head upwards as the liners may come with it. I am assuming you have the aluminium Reliant engine rather than the A series.


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## Method Man (Aug 28, 2009)

Kiashuma said:


> No chance, its got £20 of petrol in it :lol:


Just stand further back than normal? :thumb:

Get it repaired mate and have some fun in it.


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## 182_Blue (Oct 25, 2005)

Did you buy it on purpose ? LOL, they overheated when they were new so i imagine this far down the line they are just going to be a bag of trouble.


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## richard56 (Sep 29, 2013)

You have to mend it.
Someone start a Facebook group.
Get a Haynes manual.
Even I managed to do a head gasket and valves on a mk 2 Cortina.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Shaun said:


> Did you buy it on purpose ? LOL, they overheated when they were new so i imagine this far down the line they are just going to be a bag of trouble.


:lol::lol: How can you buy something buy mistake :lol::lol:


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> I doubt you will do any more damage. There will be no harm in starting it and just checking. When engines get hot they can make some strange noises sometimes you are lucky and sometimes not but you may as well find out and lets us know. If it makes some odd noises you can always turn it off.
> As a guide top end noise is generally tapping. a light knocking that rises and falls with rpm could be a little end noise and a heavy knocking a big end.
> The mayonaise points towards head gasket failure but to find the extent to which it has failed will require removal of the head anyway.
> For the future. Remember, if you do take the head of leave one bolt in and twist the head from side to side to break the join between liners and head and then remove. Don't just pull the head upwards as the liners may come with it. I am assuming you have the aluminium Reliant engine rather than the A series.


Yes its the red top engine the same 848 engine i thing they used from Rialto onwards (i may be wrong)

The noise did rise and fall with rpm as you say then the car lost all power.

Ok i will start it tonight and let you know :thumb:


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> I doubt you will do any more damage. There will be no harm in starting it and just checking. When engines get hot they can make some strange noises sometimes you are lucky and sometimes not but you may as well find out and lets us know. If it makes some odd noises you can always turn it off.
> As a guide top end noise is generally tapping. a light knocking that rises and falls with rpm could be a little end noise and a heavy knocking a big end.
> The mayonaise points towards head gasket failure but to find the extent to which it has failed will require removal of the head anyway.
> For the future. Remember, if you do take the head of leave one bolt in and twist the head from side to side to break the join between liners and head and then remove. Don't just pull the head upwards as the liners may come with it. I am assuming you have the aluminium Reliant engine rather than the A series.


Morning :thumb:

Started it last night, it started fine and sounded ok, not as it was but no knocking that i could hear. I let it idle for abut 2 mins, did'nt rev it and it seemed ok, hoping just the head gasket is gone and no other damage caused.


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## richard56 (Sep 29, 2013)

Fingers crossed.
I'm sure the mechanically gifted on here will give you loads of advice.


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Kiashuma said:


> Morning :thumb:
> 
> Started it last night, it started fine and sounded ok, not as it was but no knocking that i could hear. I let it idle for abut 2 mins, did'nt rev it and it seemed ok, hoping just the head gasket is gone and no other damage caused.


Sounds promising. I would try raising and lowering the rpm though as some noises only appear under load. There is no need to thrash it full throttle but do rev it up and let it fall.
With regard to the mayonnaise do you have oil in the water (mayo in the cooling system) or water in the oil (Mayo in in the sump) is the dipstick milky rather than oily?
Have you taken the inspection covers off? Does it look as though there has been any recent work on the engine?
I have not seen a Rialto Haynes manual but a Robin Manual should do for engine purposes.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> Sounds promising. I would try raising and lowering the rpm though as some noises only appear under load. There is no need to thrash it full throttle but do rev it up and let it fall.
> With regard to the mayonnaise do you have oil in the water (mayo in the cooling system) or water in the oil (Mayo in in the sump) is the dipstick milky rather than oily?
> Have you taken the inspection covers off? Does it look as though there has been any recent work on the engine?
> I have not seen a Rialto Haynes manual but a Robin Manual should do for engine purposes.


Cheers will try raising and lowering the rpm tonight and see.

When i checked the radiator there was some mayo in it, the dipstick was also milky. I thought it would be one or the other as you say?

By inspection covers do you mean the two panels in the car that let you see the engine? I have not had these off but looked at the engine, its very clean and as far as i know has not had work done recently.

I was told it had had a full service not long ago, the coolant has been flushed as they was a block he said and the temp send and thermostat replaced.

It has also had a new radiator at some point in its life.

Thanks again for your help so far :thumb:

I was so happy last night when it started :lol:

I also meant to add there is no signs of oil or water leaks from the engine.


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Kiashuma said:


> Cheers will try raising and lowering the rpm tonight and see.
> 
> When i checked the radiator there was some mayo in it, the dipstick was also milky. I thought it would be one or the other as you say?
> 
> ...


As long as the cooling system is not filled with an oil and water mix. I would top up the cooling system,(If you over fill it any thing floating on the top will be removed), check the oil, start the engine and run it up until it is properly warm (even go for a 5minute drive around the block) and let us know what happens, smells noises etc. Have the heater on as this will provide extra cooling. You will not make things any worse but it is wise to have as good an idea before committing to anything.

With the water topped up I would start the engine with the radiator cap off give the engine a rev and see if you get a water fountain from the header tank. If so that is another sign that the head gasket has a major leak between the cylinders and the waterways. If all seems well then put the cap on and drive it for 5 mins and see what happens. Don't take the cap off when it is hot but if the water hoses get very hard and feel under pressure then again suspect head gasket failure and switch it off.

Depending upon the result the next thing thing I would do is carefully remove the head and try to establish where the water and oil are mixing. It is usually possible to tell by careful examination of the gasket and cylinder head faces.
The head will need to be resurfaced anyway as it will be warped or pitted.

From what you say I would have a suspicion that the previous owner had an idea about all this. I would supect it had an overheating problem that was never fully rectified.
Radiator blockages are common if no anti freeze has been used for a period of time. Unfortunately there is no easy way of tellling if the current one is partially blocked or not but if you are going to go to the trouble of doing the head gasket it would be worthwhile getting it checked or just replace it as a matter of course. As you have found out overheating is never good. 
If you can solder and have the stuff to do it it is not difficult to remove one of the end caps and rod through each one of the internal passages and then resolder the end cap.

Yes the covers inside the cabin on the tunnel. Removing these opens things up and makes access considerably easier.

There are a few combinations of head gasket failure because you have oil ways, waterways, and engine cylinders so it is possible to be mixed in both. Often oil and waterways are very close together. If the head gasket seal is sufficiently compromised the oil from the pump can be pressure fed into the water system. In return the water under pressure can find its way into the oil system via, say, the holes for the push rods.
Is it just a little mayo or are both systems filled with well mixed Hellmans?


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> As long as the cooling system is not filled with an oil and water mix. I would top up the cooling system,(If you over fill it any thing floating on the top will be removed), check the oil, start the engine and run it up until it is properly warm (even go for a 5minute drive around the block) and let us know what happens, smells noises etc. Have the heater on as this will provide extra cooling. You will not make things any worse but it is wise to have as good an idea before committing to anything.
> 
> With the water topped up I would start the engine with the radiator cap off give the engine a rev and see if you get a water fountain from the header tank. If so that is another sign that the head gasket has a major leak between the cylinders and the waterways. If all seems well then put the cap on and drive it for 5 mins and see what happens. Don't take the cap off when it is hot but if the water hoses get very hard and feel under pressure then again suspect head gasket failure and switch it off.
> 
> ...


Thanks again mate, this is really helpful and i will try it tonight :thumb:

I would say the oil is full of mayo but radiator only partly i can still see water in it and much at the level it should be.

I take it the header tank is the radiator cap ? IE if water comes out of there in a fountain with it off?

As you say i think he must have known, funny that it never showed as over heating at the time. I take it becasue of past overheating that could have caused the problem i have now?


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Yes, I think so.
It is possible that it only ever did short journeys and so was not noticed but I suspect that because of the other parts, radiator, thermostat, flushing the cooling system etc it was known about.
If the oil is milky I would change it as any water that separates out from the oil if it is not being used can sit in a puddle in a bearing, crankshaft, or such like and cause local corrosion. Just the cheapest suitable oil that you can buy will suffice. Better it has oil in the bearings than water.
When you remove the sump plug and filter just let it drain. Overnight if you can. I would not be too worried about changing the filter at this stage just let it drain well and reuse it for the moment. 
Yes, the header tank is effectively the top of the radiator.
Interesting about the water in the rad and might be why the problem does not show up as overheating intitially. Is there any anti freeze? If not once you are done testing things I would drain the water and put some in. You can always reuse it later but it does protect all of the cooling system and if you get a freeze you are at least protected.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> Yes, I think so.
> It is possible that it only ever did short journeys and so was not noticed but I suspect that because of the other parts, radiator, thermostat, flushing the cooling system etc it was known about.
> If the oil is milky I would change it as any water that separates out from the oil if it is not being used can sit in a puddle in a bearing, crankshaft, or such like and cause local corrosion. Just the cheapest suitable oil that you can buy will suffice. Better it has oil in the bearings than water.
> When you remove the sump plug and filter just let it drain. Overnight if you can. I would not be too worried about changing the filter at this stage just let it drain well and reuse it for the moment.
> ...


Thanks again, i did'nt get a chance to look at it last night as the rain was so bad, fingers crossed for tonight :thumb:


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Just a update, checked the oil again last night just before i was going to start and and there is none 

I need to buy some 20/50 at the weekend to top it up. Found a local garage that's going to do the work. Its not the normal guy i have used for years so a bit wary but sure they will be fine.

Reliant chap i bought it from says head will not need skimmed as its an alloy head, and to just use the thicker Reliant gasket and then flush the system out.

The garage says it may need skimmed but until they take the head off they won't know. Its going to be looked at end of next week, and then i should know more about costs etc.


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

Kiashuma said:


> Reliant chap i bought it from says head will not need skimmed as its an alloy head, and to just use the thicker Reliant gasket and then flush the system out.


Alloy heads typically DO need skimming, you need it pressure tested and checked to see if it needs it, If it has overheated on more than one occasion I'd be very wary of a warped head.


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

I wonder where the oil went and if that was part of the overheating?
I can assure you the head will need refacing and pressure testing. With respect he is talking out of his chuff. There is not a cat in hells chance of it not being warped. If you do not reface it you will be doing it again.
Whilst the head is off I would also have the valves and seats checked and recut if necessary. Also replace the valve stem seals. They come as part of the headgasket set but make sure you get the later seals as they grip the guides better and don't fall off.
Depending on the amount that needs to be removed from the head and its overall thickness will determine whether to use the thicker gasket or not. Only use it if you have to.
Are they going to check the cooling system at the same time?
Are you not tempted to have a go yourself?


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> I wonder where the oil went and if that was part of the overheating?
> I can assure you the head will need refacing and pressure testing. With respect he is talking out of his chuff. There is not a cat in hells chance of it not being warped. If you do not reface it you will be doing it again.
> Whilst the head is off I would also have the valves and seats checked and recut if necessary. Also replace the valve stem seals. They come as part of the headgasket set but make sure you get the later seals as they grip the guides better and don't fall off.
> Depending on the amount that needs to be removed from the head and its overall thickness will determine whether to use the thicker gasket or not. Only use it if you have to.
> ...


Cheers again, yes going to get them to check the cooling too, i am begining to think the chap i got it from does'nt have a clue :lol:
I would love to have a go myself, but working 6 day weeks and having no tools (only stuff to strip and rebuild mountain bikes) it would never get done :lol: Really wish i could tho, would be a great way to learn and would be so useful for the future :thumb:


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Well, we will have to wait and see then. Keep us posted with what happens.
Best of luck.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Its back 

Ran well last night, won't start and pool of oil under it this morn. AAARRRRGGGHHHHH


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## richard56 (Sep 29, 2013)

Glad it's back
Where is the oil coming from?


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

richard56 said:


> Glad it's back
> Where is the oil coming from?


Not sure, didnt have much time to look this morn, looks like the bottom of the engine, gasket or something.

Its had the oil filter replaced, going to check that tonight.


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

Kiashuma said:


> Not sure, didnt have much time to look this morn, looks like the bottom of the engine, gasket or something.
> 
> Its had the oil filter replaced, going to check that tonight.


Where do you get your patience from? I would be on the phone demanding it is collected, fixed and returned to me at no cost.
I really hope it is fixed properly so that you can enjoy it soon.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Sh1ner said:


> Where do you get your patience from? I would be on the phone demanding it is collected, fixed and returned to me at no cost.
> I really hope it is fixed properly so that you can enjoy it soon.


I know what you mean, but its only a car, can't be bothered causing more bother.

Going to see if i can see where leak is from and try and get it started tonight and take it from there.

Looking forward to getting using it, went for a short run yesterday eve, its great fun.

Once its up and running i need to get the inside cleaned, its a state.


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Spent last yesterday evening in the dark and cold wind looking at the car.

Got it started, battery was low. Went for a run and volt meter in car still said zero, had a good look and found a wire disconnected, must have been caught buy the garage. Plugged in and volt ,meter show 14 

Oil leak is from gasket on the sump i think. Popped by the garage this morn and they said they think its from the rocker cover, im not convinced so going to clean all the oil off this weekend and keep an eye on it. Last night it was parked flat (not up kerb) and the leak was very minimal.

Took it to work today, its great fun


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

Holy **** ,its got foglights!


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