# Sonax Perfect Finish - Finishing Polish



## MidlandsCarCare

Has anyone on here tried this yet? I follow a lot of the Pro's in America and the forums over there and this polish seems to be HUGE in the US! I've seen some amazing one stage results with this polish.

This video gives an insight into just how good it is!!






Can't wait to get my hands on some of this - I believe CYC will have this in stock in a couple of weeks.

Russ.


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## -Raven-

I looked at that when it came out, but couldn't get it in any size smaller than 1L, so never bothered chasing it up. I'll stick with Megs SMAT polish for now, it works, and works awesome.


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## stangalang

Pretty sure Nasser is a big fan of this. Might be worth a pm. Also I think porta has give it a shot too


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## Steampunk

Mike at Swell.Gr is a big fan, as well; definitely worth a PM. I've done quite a bit of research on this particular product, as people are throwing about some pretty big claims about it. Most people who have tried it seem to swear blind by it, though you will occasionally find a more tempered review that states a more balanced perspective of pros and cons. 

These pros and cons seem to be:

+ Very good final finish for the level of cut on offer (P2000-2500 sanding scratch removal); perfect for 1-steps on softer paint types
+ A little bit goes a long way
+ Fast working time (Like Scholl)
+ Easy wipe-off

- Finishes well for cut, but not the miracle worker that some people are claiming. Finishes down better than Megs #205 on ridiculously soft paint, but still leaves more hazing than Menzerna SF4500 (PO85RD). 
- Thick consistency gums up pads quickly, and requires more frequent pad changes to compensate. 
- Can dust if over-applied

I have yet to get a chance to try this product for myself, but this seems to be a decent synopsis of the countless comments on American detailing forums which I have read. One person on Detailing Bliss commented that it cuts like Menzerna PF2500, but finishes like SF4000, which is pretty impressive. However, I find comparisons like this very difficult to interpret, because so much is changed by polishing style and atmospheric conditions (Especially with Menzerna).

It's one of the polishes on my list that I am very interested in trying out, though had planned to wait a little longer, and see what people actually thought of it once all the initial fuss died down. I'd be fascinated to see what you think of it, Russel, and look forward to reading your comments once you get the opportunity to try it out. :thumb:

Again, I have not yet had the opportunity to formulate my own opinion on the subject, but this is what my research net has been able to scoop up to date. Hopefully it helps...

Steampunk


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## Porta

I tried Sonax Perfect Finish (herafter SPF since many of us, but not all, like abbrevations) under the fall of 2012. And nowadays this is the polish I am reaching after most of the times.

Why?

1. Easy to use and very easy to remove even after short or very long sets

2. Fast working: no need for long time consuming polishing sessions. Work it for maximum 90 seconds and you are good to go. 

3. A little goes long way so the price can seem a little steep but you only need little so it's economical.

4. No dust.

5. Great gloss and nice cut. I must say that I have never tried it with a cutting pad or wool so I can't say if its capable of removing P2000 or P2500 sanding marks. But then I would choose a "proper" compound, even if SPF is said to remove them. On my brilliant black Audi I removed, hard do say but approximately 90 % of the defects with a polishing pads on a top tool, a over sized cyclo polisher, and it left the paint with a, pardon the pun, a perfect finish with no haze.

Cons then? 

1. the purchase price is, as mentioned above, a little high but then it's a economical, see point no 3 above.

2. Since it's a compact polish it can and will load up the pads, so spur the pads frequently or, as I do, change pads after a couple of panels. 

Will it live up to the hype that Tood and the other guys promise? I was a little sceptical but I must say that this is a killer polish with a large repertoire.

Give it a try and I am sure you will like it, Russ.


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## HarryCCC

That polish looks very impressive Russ!
Have you had chance to use the car pro denim pads yet, if so what are your thoughts?


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## -Raven-

velvet > denim for me.


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## toni

Porta said:


> I tried Sonax Perfect Finish (herafter SPF since many of us, but not all, like abbrevations) under the fall of 2012. And nowadays this is the polish I am reaching after most of the times.
> 
> Why?
> 
> 1. Easy to use and very easy to remove even after short or very long sets
> 
> 2. Fast working: no need for long time consuming polishing sessions. Work it for maximum 90 seconds and you are good to go.
> 
> 3. A little goes long way so the price can seem a little steep but you only need little so it's economical.
> 
> 4. No dust.
> 
> 5. Great gloss and nice cut. I must say that I have never tried it with a cutting pad or wool so I can't say if its capable of removing P2000 or P2500 sanding marks. But then I would choose a "proper" compound, even if SPF is said to remove them. On my brilliant black Audi I removed, hard do say but approximately 90 % of the defects with a polishing pads on a top tool, a over sized cyclo polisher, and it left the paint with a, pardon the pun, a perfect finish with no haze.
> 
> Cons then?
> 
> 1. the purchase price is, as mentioned above, a little high but then it's a economical, see point no 3 above.
> 
> 2. Since it's a compact polish it can and will load up the pads, so spur the pads frequently or, as I do, change pads after a couple of panels.
> 
> Will it live up to the hype that Tood and the other guys promise? I was a little sceptical but I must say that this is a killer polish with a large repertoire.
> 
> Give it a try and I am sure you will like it, Russ.


Marcus, do you use the technique recommended by Sonax? High initial pressure with low rpm and faster rpm with low pressure for finishing or do you use the usual Zenith method?


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## Porta

Toni,

I spread it on low rpm just to get a film of polish and then I bump up the speed with pressure for 30-40 seconds and then lower the speed with no pressure fo 30-40 seconds and then finished. IE "zenith".

The Sonax rep in Sweden tells me to tilt the pad but I have never tried it and I have also never tried to use pressure on low rpm.

I used the same kind of techniq with a DA or cyclo.

_______

This is how Tood Cooperide @ Esoteric Auto Detail write on his website, http://esotericcarcare.com/Sonax-Perfect-Finish-1L, on how to use Sonax Perfect finish.

There are a lot of great products on the market, but if you use it incorrectly, you can significantly reduce the performance...Sonax Perfect Finish is no different. When using the product, you may find a few ways to slightly tweak your technique depending on the type of paint you're working with or the level of correction you're going for, but if you follow the guidelines below, you should be able to maximize your results with the product.

Rotary Polishing: Perfect Finish was designed around the rotary, and you can achieve stunning results with it! The first thing you need to remember is that a little bit of product goes a long way whether you're using the rotary or the DA. All you need is two small drops of product per working section (roughly 24"x 24"). Using more product won't help you...and it usually reduces performance with most polishes.

With the 2 drops applied directly to the pad (usually a finishing pad when using PF as a finish polish), spread the polish around the surface either with the machine off, or with no pressure at 900rpm. Once the product is spread around, increase to a medium pressure at 900rpm with slow arm movement in a cross-hatch pattern (left to right, then up and down). After about 30 seconds, increase the speed to 1200rpm with light pressure for another 30-60 seconds depending on the level of cut or finish you're going for (do a few test sections to see how much time is needed to achieve your desired results). Now if you're dealing with a harder paint, you're usually safe to stop your polishing at 1200rpm. If you're working with softer paints, it's recommended that you then bring it back down to 900rpm with no pressure and slow arm movement to achieve a final burnishing of the paint and to ensure a hologram-free finish. You should find Perfect Finish to be VERY easy to remove from the surface when wiping down!

Note: Perfect Finish has a thicker consistency than most polishes, and as a result it will saturate pads more quickly. Be sure to change your pads more frequently than you normally would because cut / finish can and will be reduced dramatically if you're using a pad that is overloaded with polish residue.

_______


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## toni

Thanks! I've read Todd's guidelines, but I was curious about your technique.


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## Porta

toni said:


> Thanks! I've read Todd's guidelines, but I was curious about your technique.


I thought so as well, but I posted it for all the others since it´s a great guide :thumb:

I will polish my own car this spring, so I will laborate with some different techniques. But it's a bullet proof polish, just push play and you are done.


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## CleanYourCar

We have it in stock now :buffer: :thumb:


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## CleanYourCar

Have to agree whole heartedly with Porta, after giving this a thorough workout today on a couple of panels, it's the best and easiest to use finishing polish I've used. It definitely has a decent level of cut, but boy does it finish well.

As Porta says I love how easy removal is and how 'un-grabby' it makes the pad. You can use this on a rotary and as a enthusiast feel like a pro as it really glides over the paint. I'd imagine even a complete beginner could pick up this polish even on a rotary and make it work. I didn't find it saturated the pad either, or if it was it definiately didn't effect the performance.

It's a real pleasure to use and yet another Sonax product I'm confident will be huge over hear as well. Believe the hype on this. :buffer:


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## sprocketser

Will need some of these for sure .


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## CleanYourCar

It is definitely very good, we'll be recommending it from now on for sure.


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## sprocketser

CleanYourCar said:


> It is definitely very good, we'll be recommending it from now on for sure.


You bet sir !


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## toni

Used this polish during the weekend on a yellow Seat Ibiza with good results.

I can't stress enough how important is to use very little polish. At first, at used a little too much and my pad (3M yellow) was caked after 2/3 of the hood.
It has decent cut and very good finishing abilities. I would compare it to Menzerna PO203 but it has the advantage of a lower polishing cycle => faster results.


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## sprocketser

Thanx for info toni . Will have a look at this product .

Just a little side note here : can it be applied by hand !


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## Ihlberg82

Porta said:


> I tried Sonax Perfect Finish (herafter SPF since many of us, but not all, like abbrevations) under the fall of 2012. And nowadays this is the polish I am reaching after most of the times.
> 
> Why?
> 
> 1. Easy to use and very easy to remove even after short or very long sets
> 
> 2. Fast working: no need for long time consuming polishing sessions. Work it for maximum 90 seconds and you are good to go.
> 
> 3. A little goes long way so the price can seem a little steep but you only need little so it's economical.
> 
> 4. No dust.
> 
> 5. Great gloss and nice cut. I must say that I have never tried it with a cutting pad or wool so I can't say if its capable of removing P2000 or P2500 sanding marks. But then I would choose a "proper" compound, even if SPF is said to remove them. On my brilliant black Audi I removed, hard do say but approximately 90 % of the defects with a polishing pads on a top tool, a over sized cyclo polisher, and it left the paint with a, pardon the pun, a perfect finish with no haze.
> 
> Cons then?
> 
> 1. the purchase price is, as mentioned above, a little high but then it's a economical, see point no 3 above.
> 
> 2. Since it's a compact polish it can and will load up the pads, so spur the pads frequently or, as I do, change pads after a couple of panels.
> 
> Will it live up to the hype that Tood and the other guys promise? I was a little sceptical but I must say that this is a killer polish with a large repertoire.
> 
> Give it a try and I am sure you will like it, Russ.


I´ve been using menzerna for ages, but after reading about this product I couldn´t resist buying a bottle.

Which speeds are you using on the top tool for this polish?
Any suggestions on suitable pads also appreciated.


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## CleanYourCar

Quick bump as I just did a write up here:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=4163826



CleanYourCar said:


> Ok here we go not a complete write up as it was never initially intended to be a complete detail but it snowballed. So unfortunately no zoomed out shots, more the details.
> 
> Anyway, the car in question 2006 Phantom Black RS4, which has obviously had a lot of love in its life including front end respray which is the best paint finish I've seen so completely stone chip free.
> 
> However it had obviously over the year picked up quite a bit of marring, not helped by the no doubt recent trip to the body shop and a over zealous buffer. So hologram city but really quite free of bonded contamination.
> ax
> I'm kicking myself for not taking a few sunshine shots before as it was really quite something to behold in full sunshine.
> 
> Anyway, the car wash washed and and we really wanted to give one product in particular a proper run out. SONAX - Perfect Finish. Over in the States they are raving about this polish.
> 
> It has a cut of 4/6 and gloss of 6/6 so potentially the perfect one stage compound. Much of it's hype has been around it's ability to work quickly, with minimal dust, easy removal and importantly finish pin sharp. Its touted as the best polish to use on soft finicky paints due to to its ability finish with no holograms.
> 
> But how would it fare on tougher VAG paint....
> 
> Using just a Shinemate EP801 polisher and a Chemical Guys Green and Orange Hexlogic pad and Sonax Perfect Finish polish it was time to get polishing and the results speak for themselves.
> 
> The polish gives really impressive levels of cut, for a polish that finishes this well it has no right to remove what it does. I won't lie and say it was 100% correction, but a easy 90-95% with just the deeper RDS remaining. It works extremely fast and wipes of a dream with no grab at all. But what I love more than anything is the actual control it allows you. I'm no way a pro but know my way around a rotary, but the pad absolutely glides and never becomes grabby. It gives real confidence in using a rotary. You never feel it's going to make a mess or become difficult to handle.
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> Works wonders on faded Audi metal trim also!
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> 
> So in conclusion, in my opinion Sonax Premium Finish definitely deserves the hype it is getting, one of if not the nicest one step polish I've tried and on a rotary and can make a serious dent even in tough VAG paint and its nice to be confident there will be no holograms just a pin sharp finish. Highly recommended!


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## sprocketser

Wow , great results !


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## MidlandsCarCare

That looks awesome Tim!


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## CleanYourCar

Yeah its an impressive polish. So easy to use as well. :argie:


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## salim

Some nice results.

I'm currently using a da and megs 105/205, on soft paints. Where would this fit in?


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## MidlandsCarCare

It offers a little more cut than 205 and the claims are it finishes down better too on softer paints.


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## salim

I get along ok with M205 but would be nice to have abit more bite. This looks interesting.


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## Karl woods

One step polish on a friends CRV a couple of weeks ago , cut and finished really nice , says 90 sec work time on bottle but I found that a touch to long for this job , be it the soft paint or weather but if I tried to work it too long it gummed up on the panel . Used a rotary and 3m blue pad at about 1100 rpm . 
As others have said less is more , too much on the pad turns to dust v quickly , i found using around half as much product as I would with say meg 205 was about right .
Once I got used to it I found I got round the car pretty quickly with decent results for a one step , like it .


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## sm81

How long it took to make whole car?


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## sicko

what about the filling effect? anyone had any problems with filling?


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## Karl woods

sm81 said:


> How long it took to make whole car?


Just polishing I would say roughly about 7-8 hours , which for me was quick .


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## Karl woods

sicko said:


> what about the filling effect? anyone had any problems with filling?


Photos above we're after a wipe down with eraser and wurth silicone remover just to make sure , like you I wondered if it was filling a little .


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## CleanYourCar

It definitely wasn't filling, those pictures I posted were taken after a wipe down with Sonax paint prepare, ready for applying the Protect & Shine Hybrid NPT.


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## CleanYourCar

Karl woods said:


> One step polish on a friends CRV a couple of weeks ago , cut and finished really nice , says 90 sec work time on bottle but I found that a touch to long for this job , be it the soft paint or weather but if I tried to work it too long it gummed up on the panel . Used a rotary and 3m blue pad at about 1100 rpm .
> As others have said less is more , too much on the pad turns to dust v quickly , i found using around half as much product as I would with say meg 205 was about right .
> Once I got used to it I found I got round the car pretty quickly with decent results for a one step , like it .


Those pictures look great! :thumb:


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## HarryCCC

I've just ordered a bottle of this from Clean Your Car. I'm trialling it at the weekend a will let you know how i get on. It looks a very promising product!


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## CleanYourCar

HarryCCC said:


> I've just ordered a bottle of this from Clean Your Car. I'm trialling it at the weekend a will let you know how i get on. It looks a very promising product!


Many thanks for that, you won't be disappointed. It's a fantastic one step/finishing product. In full sun today I can confirm there is zero hologramming and as glossy a finish as I've seen.


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## ronwash

I got a feeling its scholls s20 in disguise.
i worked some long hours with s20[fantastic polish],sounds about right.


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## Porta

ronwash said:


> I got a feeling its scholls s20 in disguise.
> i worked some long hours with s20[fantastic polish],sounds about right.


This is not correct. Sonax is a manufacturer and are not relabeling any of their polishes. In fact Hoffman Minerals is supplying a lot of companies in the industry with raw material such as aluminum oxide and etc.

Hoffman Minerals owns the mines and Sonax GMBH is the producer.


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## BDJ

Any experience with it on a DA?
I want to try it out, have hex logic orange, white and black pads.
Hope it will work great with a white pad, not needing to finish it with black one.


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## R B Customs

BDJ said:


> Any experience with it on a DA?
> I want to try it out, have hex logic orange, white and black pads.
> Hope it will work great with a white pad, not needing to finish it with black one.


I've just ordered 250ml today from CYC, I asked them about pads and for my case they recommended a white hex pad. I had already ordered an orange hex pad and an orange school spot pad. but luckily I have a black and white hex pad spare. I'm using it on a rotary by the way, not a DA.

Looking forward to using this polish, I'll be getting to grips with it tomorrow night hopefully.


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## BDJ

I also ordered locally, hope to have it by tomorrow, and maybe test it on a DA with hex white. 
We'll see how it will perform on a DA...


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## davZS

Anyone had any trials on a DA? Fancy some but I've got DA want to know how it performs.


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## Porta

davZS said:


> Anyone had any trials on a DA? Fancy some but I've got DA want to know how it performs.


It works great with a DA or Cyclo polisher. I use it with a orange one step polishing pad or a finishing pad with very good results.


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## rob_vrs

Im going to be trying this on a purple TT friday with a yellow 3m pad ill try get some good photos of the finish


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## R B Customs

Hey guys, just having a break from a late night polishing session.

I'm using this stuff on a 4" white hex pad and a 85mm orange Scholl pad on a rotary. I'm actually blown away with this polish at the moment. Okay, I have not used that many polishes... I discovered menzerna and stuck with it, and I have tried a few others but I have not had anything with a working time as long as this: it just spreads so far and can be worked over and over. Removal is the easiest of any product I've used, it just wipes off with no fuss. I'd like to stress the word 'wipe' here - it takes no effort.

I will report back in more detail tomorrow as I have a roof to finish!


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## HarryCCC

Evening DW,

I recently tried this product on a Performance Blue Focus RS and was blown away with the results for a one step polish! The cut was immense and the finish in the sun afterwards was mind blowing. Also the gloss levels were very impressive. I used this on the rupes bigfoot and their yellow polishing pad. I only have a couple of photos for now but will upload the rest once I've uploaded them from my camera.


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## nichol4s

rob_vrs said:


> Im going to be trying this on a purple TT friday with a yellow 3m pad ill try get some good photos of the finish


I've got some coming too, I may let you borrow .


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## CleanYourCar

HarryCCC said:


> Evening DW,
> 
> I recently tried this product on a Performance Blue Focus RS and was blown away with the results for a one step polish! The cut was immense and the finish in the sun afterwards was mind blowing. Also the gloss levels were very impressive. I used this on the rupes bigfoot and their yellow polishing pad. I only have a couple of photos for now but will upload the rest once I've uploaded them from my camera.


You can't ask for more than that, the first 50:50 is great. The finish is razor sharp as well with no drop back. You just need a really sunny day to stand back and appreciate just how good it is.


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## CleanYourCar

R B Customs said:


> Hey guys, just having a break from a late night polishing session.
> 
> I'm using this stuff on a 4" white hex pad and a 85mm orange Scholl pad on a rotary. I'm actually blown away with this polish at the moment. Okay, I have not used that many polishes... I discovered menzerna and stuck with it, and I have tried a few others but I have not had anything with a working time as long as this: it just spreads so far and can be worked over and over. Removal is the easiest of any product I've used, it just wipes off with no fuss. I'd like to stress the word 'wipe' here - it takes no effort.
> 
> I will report back in more detail tomorrow as I have a roof to finish!


Great to hear also. Your thoughts echo pretty much what I experienced with it. It's a lovely and easy to use polish.


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## CleanYourCar

davZS said:


> Anyone had any trials on a DA? Fancy some but I've got DA want to know how it performs.


The first post has a video with a Rupes polisher, which is really just a posh DA. On the US forums there are quite a few reviews on the product and it's use on a Dual Action also.


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## R B Customs

HarryCCC said:


> Evening DW,
> 
> I recently tried this product on a Performance Blue Focus RS and was blown away with the results for a one step polish! The cut was immense and the finish in the sun afterwards was mind blowing. Also the gloss levels were very impressive. I used this on the rupes bigfoot and their yellow polishing pad. I only have a couple of photos for now but will upload the rest once I've uploaded them from my camera.


I was just about to show off any post pics of my Performance Blue Ford fiesta and then you post that beast...Thanks 

Anyway, I've some more thoughts on this polish - I was using it all last night and really started to get to grips with it.

*Pads & technique:*
I have to say I prefer this polish on a flat pad rather than the hex pads, I found that if you let the hex pads clog they would occasionally send little rolls of polish flying which gather in the gaps in the pads - This is of course my fault for letting the pad clog in the first place; however, I did think that the flat scholl pad was a better option.

I do the majority of my polishing with 4" spot pads mainly because I can get to smaller areas without a change, they're the correct size for doing reasonable sized patches at a time and they're cheaper... I didn't use a bigger 5.5" or 6" pad in this case but I'm not sure if they would be any better or any worse for clogging.

The directions suggest tilting the machine, it certainly helps spread the product, it acts different to anything else I have used, so I'd recommend tilting the machine, or at least trying it out once. It won;t leave buffer trails like other polishes may when tilting machines.

While this polish was not grabby at all on the sholl flat pad, it sometimes grabbed a little bit on the hex pad (only a little though it was still very slick)

-*heat and atmosphere*: (needs clarification or input from others - don't trust my judgement straight away) - (edit In hindsight I think this is mostly BS, Heat from the lamps still does seem to have an effect, but everything else was purly down to overloaded pads clogging - read on to see what I thought it was though :/ )
I found that my polishing experience changed over time last night, I think the heat in the garage and the humidity caused from all the water in there made the polish act a little different over time, In the end I ditched the hex pad as it started to not spread as well as it was earlier. I don't know the cause of this but the only variable was the environment - pads had been cleaned thoroughly throughout the session. The flat pad didn't give me any problems like this. On second thoughts it might have been radiated heat from a 500watt flood light - I do find that they heat the panels even when placed far away and this could have been the cause.

*removal:*
As I said earlier it's amazingly easy to remove cleanly. It's a funny make-up which acts like a grease would in terms of not drying out, yet it wipes off the panels easily and usually first time. I found you could be very casual about removing it.

*Packaging:*
This is the only let down for me; because of the tiny amount of product needed the flip-cap tube was not ideal as it had no spout of any kind, the hole is flush to the cap. It's going to get messy over time and it means you can waste a lot of product by it going over the cap ect. It's quite thick, so squirting it out of the tube is not really an option like it is with other polishes as you would end up with far too much product on the pad.

Also, when the product is new you can't shake it... I think it's the first time I have not seen the directions [shake well before use] on the packaging, but even if it did you can't do it until there's a gap in the tube (even then it's difficult). I don't know if it requires shaking or not but who wouldn't shake a new bottle of polish up?!

This was on the 250ml tube by the way. It's not a massive problem - just an oversight I think.

*-finish:*The finish from one step is awesome... Don't take that the wrong way - I'd be jumping for joy if this had been the finish from 3 steps too - but from a one step product it's unreal specially on pads I would not dream of using for final finish. I didn't go hard enough to try and correct RDS - I'm not sure if it would or not but I didn't feel the need to find out. It conquered the swirls and other marks and left no holograms.

Overall I'm deeply impressed with this polish and can see it lasting ages and ages. The results are superb and it's very nice to work with. Don't take my thoughts as negative above, I wanted to be a bit constructive in my criticism.

*Pros:* super long working time, superb finish, great price considering how far it will go and how long it will last, easiest removal of any polish I've used.

*Cons: *design of container for 250ml tube has not been thought through, will clog pads so frequent cleaning is needed.

Unfortunately I don't have any good 50/50s as my car wasn't bad to begin with and was polished the week before but using a now inferior system! I tried a new paint cleanser / sealant before a synthetic sealant and it left nasty holograms all over the place so this is what spurred me on to try this product and go back to wax.

I'm doing the rest of the car over the next few days so will try and find a bad spot for some 50/50's









Those light spots are stone-chips. Unfortunately the front end of my car is peppered with them and the paint is in some places beyond rescue I think.









flare in bottom right is just off my phone's lens, not in the paint.










Only done font end and roof. door was recently polished by other means

Thanks to Clean Your Car for getting this out next day and making a judgement call on the pad selection by the way! cheers fellas!


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## BDJ

I finally got mine delivered today:










Now the only problem is time, as at the moment, I have too much work.
Can't wait myself to test it out, so hope I'll test it soon )


----------



## R B Customs

BDJ said:


> I finally got mine delivered today:
> 
> http://s13.postimg.org/lrnqonyk7/Sonax_PF.jpg
> 
> Now the only problem is time, as at the moment, I have too much work.
> Can't wait myself to test it out, so hope I'll test it soon :))[/quote]
> 
> cool! please share your thoughts.
> 
> After using this polish some more it's becoming clear that clean pads are going to make your life easy. As soon as the pad starts to get clogged it affects spreading and working time. I've just been washing pads under the hot tap and then squeezing them dry then squashing them between a towel to get them 99% dry. if there's too much water left in them it will fling everywhere. If I were to do this again I'd have bought 3 or 4 pads to cycle through. You can get by with just one or two but it will need frequent washing.
> (all based on <4" spot pads - bigger pads may act different)


----------



## cleancar

I am tempted to buy this , but the cut level is putting me off a bit as my car isn't mega swirly.

Pity they don't do a 2/6 cut product for light swirl removal for wash marring etc

concerned using this all of the time will be taking off loads of clearcoat 

Anyone done any measurements for how many microns its taking off ?


----------



## rob_vrs

Today i had a try with the sonax unfortunately the car was way too hot.

What is the best technique for the polish?

Im using a flex 3401 and was looking to use yellow 3M pad with it


----------



## cleancar

What pad is everyone using with this polish ?


----------



## nichol4s

Lake Country CCS :thumb:


----------



## toni

cleancar said:


> What pad is everyone using with this polish ?


I've used it with 3M Yellow.



cleancar said:


> I am tempted to buy this , but the cut level is putting me off a bit as my car isn't mega swirly.
> 
> Pity they don't do a 2/6 cut product for light swirl removal for wash marring etc
> 
> concerned using this all of the time will be taking off loads of clearcoat
> 
> Anyone done any measurements for how many microns its taking off ?


But they do a 2/6  only it also contains some wax. It's called Nano Polish&Wax.
They also have a 3/6 called Nano Polish. But I don't think either of one is imported into the UK.


----------



## CleanYourCar

toni said:


> I've used it with 3M Yellow.
> 
> But they do a 2/6  only it also contains some wax. It's called Nano Polish&Wax.
> They also have a 3/6 called Nano Polish. But I don't think either of one is imported into the UK.


I think Nano Polish 3/6 has been discontinued, but certainly we can try to get the Nano Polish & Wax. with a cut of 2 & gloss 6.

Tim


----------



## Rebel007

Just wanted to add a little to this thread. 

I bought some of this at waxstock as I had a few things I wanted to try with it having recently had the bonnet of my car painted to get rid of paint chips you can imagine how I felt when after less than a week there was a big chip right in the middle (at the front) of my bonnet  

The car is an SLK (R171) in Obsidian Black and the chip really stood out, anyway I cleaned the chip using IPA and then used touch up paint in 2 or 3 layers to raise it above the level of the rest of my paint, I then left the car for 48 hours to dry completely. After this time I used some Sonax perfect finish on a microfibre cloth BY HAND I worked it and worked it until the touch up paint was level with the rest of the bonnet, then used a little polish on top of the perfect finish to match the polish I had previously used on the whole car and the chip is virtually invisible!

I'm sure when the sun comes out I will be able to find where the chip was but right now neither I or my wife can find it, where previously it was an eyesore, Sonax Perfect finish saved me having to go back to the paintshop to get it professionally repaired and I'm delighted wih it.


----------



## Gleammachine

rob_vrs said:


> Today i had a try with the sonax unfortunately the car was way too hot.
> 
> What is the best technique for the polish?
> 
> Im using a flex 3401 and was looking to use yellow 3M pad with it


I use it with a yellow Rupes pad which is probably similar to the 3m yellow.

2 small pea sized blobs is plenty, you don't want the pad overloaded or it will gum up quickly and affect pad performance.
I found 90-100 second work times give the best results, I'm using the Rupes BF so the technique may vary, but slow passes at speed 3-4.

I used 2 pads for a M135i yesterday, just keep them spurred/clean after each set.


----------



## rob_vrs

Gleammachine said:


> I use it with a yellow Rupes pad which is probably similar to the 3m yellow.
> 
> 2 small pea sized blobs is plenty, you don't want the pad overloaded or it will gum up quickly and affect pad performance.
> I found 90-100 second work times give the best results, I'm using the Rupes BF so the technique may vary, but slow passes at speed 3-4.
> 
> I used 2 pads for a M135i yesterday, just keep them spurred/clean after each set.


Seem to be exactly what i do, and getting very little cut :/ hmm...

I could be expecting too much


----------



## BDJ

If you want more cut, then you should try Cut & Finish maybe?

Can someone with more experience tell me, can Cut & Finish and Perfect Finish combo be a good replacement for Megs 105 & 205 combo?

The only thing is that PF has more cut than megs finishing polish.
But on the other side, I think PF works very well as a finishing polish with a finishing pad such as hex black.


----------



## Rascal_69

Need to get some of this


----------



## danwel

Anyone tried the colour charged ones with the chip stick?


----------



## sprocketser

Does it have ( the Cut & Finish + Final Finish ) more cutting - finishing power than the Meg s combo ! ( 105-205 )


----------



## CleanYourCar

danwel said:


> Anyone tried the colour charged ones with the chip stick?


No, but I'm guessing it could actually be pretty good. I asked for a sample on our latest order.


----------



## CleanYourCar

sprocketser said:


> Does it have ( the Cut & Finish + Final Finish ) more cutting - finishing power than the Meg s combo ! ( 105-205 )


Not sure on the heavier cut one, it's another we are wanting to try also. In terms of finishing you couldn't really ask for more as it's quick and easy to use and leaves a very sharp finish even on very soft paints.


----------



## danwel

CleanYourCar said:


> No, but I'm guessing it could actually be pretty good. I asked for a sample on our latest order.


Cool, am interested in trying the silver one so may well see what you think before taking the plunge


----------



## sprocketser

CleanYourCar said:


> Not sure on the heavier cut one, it's another we are wanting to try also. In terms of finishing you couldn't really ask for more as it's quick and easy to use and leaves a very sharp finish even on very soft paints.


Thanx mate , a side by side comparo between these 2 sets of products would be great , I know it s some kind of work , but some would like this I think .


----------



## Adrian Convery

Used this the other day with the Rupes 15, the Yellow Rupes pad and couldn't believe it for a one step polish. It was also SO easy to use and buff off. Here are some results. Fastest and easiest results I think I have ever gotten.




Great product and think I'll be ordering the bigger bottle when I run out. Trying it out on some harder paint tomorrow I think on something rather special too


----------



## davZS

Anyone had any experience working with a DA and hex pads? Looking for advice on work times for the polish, I'm working on audi paint to. Thanks for any advice, I had ago last night but made minimal impact on the swirls.


----------



## TIFF

Got a really bad dark blue BMW to do this week and im trying Sonax for the first time......should be interesting...


----------



## sprocketser

TIFF said:


> Got a really bad dark blue BMW to do this week and im trying Sonax for the first time......should be interesting...


For sure mate , look forward to it .


----------



## evovish

Been using perfect finish for over a month now...Awesome product


----------



## sprocketser

Great results there mate ! The reflection s crazy !


----------



## CleanYourCar

davZS said:


> Anyone had any experience working with a DA and hex pads? Looking for advice on work times for the polish, I'm working on audi paint to. Thanks for any advice, I had ago last night but made minimal impact on the swirls.


With a DA it's never going to be as impressive in terms of correction, especially on harder paints. However using a firm pad you should be able to achieve some decent correction on light swirls and hazing. It is a finishing polish designed to give maximum hologram free gloss so you might find it better to use a heaver compound up front such as Menzerna Fast Gloss FG400, Scholl S3 Gold, Megs #105 etc. then use that for refining and really shining up the paint.

Tim


----------



## CleanYourCar

evovish said:


> Been using perfect finish for over a month now...Awesome product


Those really are crazy reflections! Good to hear others are experiencing similar results.

Tim


----------



## Rebel007

I'd have said that was an understatement! 

When even a complete newbie can get near perfect swirl correction on a black (Mettalic) MB SLK (at least according to Kempe it was near perfect) on their very first attempt at using a rotary polisher to correct paint, it is simply astonishing!


----------



## kempe

Rebel007 said:


> I'd have said that was an understatement!
> 
> When even a complete newbie can get near perfect swirl correction on a black (Mettalic) MB SLK (at least according to Kempe it was near perfect) on their very first attempt at using a rotary polisher to correct paint, it is simply astonishing!


We should of taken pictures of before and after  Next time :thumb:


----------



## CodHead

CleanYourCar said:


> With a DA it's never going to be as impressive in terms of correction, especially on harder paints. However using a firm pad you should be able to achieve some decent correction on light swirls and hazing. It is a finishing polish designed to give maximum hologram free gloss so you might find it better to use a heaver compound up front such as Menzerna Fast Gloss FG400, Scholl S3 Gold, Megs #105 etc. then use that for refining and really shining up the paint.
> 
> Tim


Tim, what pads would you recommend using with this on my EP801? I currently have CG Hex Orange, White and Blue. :buffer:


----------



## CleanYourCar

CodHead said:


> Tim, what pads would you recommend using with this on my EP801? I currently have CG Hex Orange, White and Blue. :buffer:


I used Orange Hexlogic on the RS4, but I'm certain the White would have worked better for a even truer finishing polish.

Having said that using the Orange it finished perfectly and totally hologram free so I'm not sure how much more the gloss could have been improved.

Tim


----------



## CodHead

CleanYourCar said:


> I used Orange Hexlogic on the RS4, but I'm certain the White would have worked better for a even truer finishing polish.
> 
> Having said that using the Orange it finished perfectly and totally hologram free so I'm not sure how much more the gloss could have been improved.
> 
> Tim


Sorted. Have you tried the Hybrid NPT polish yet? I was thinking of getting some to use before I next use my Protect and Shine.


----------



## davZS

CleanYourCar said:


> With a DA it's never going to be as impressive in terms of correction, especially on harder paints. However using a firm pad you should be able to achieve some decent correction on light swirls and hazing. It is a finishing polish designed to give maximum hologram free gloss so you might find it better to use a heaver compound up front such as Menzerna Fast Gloss FG400, Scholl S3 Gold, Megs #105 etc. then use that for refining and really shining up the paint.
> 
> Tim


Thanks for that tim I'll order some and see how I get on with one of the above.


----------



## BDJ

Tried today on a black car, even with an orange hex pad it couldn't remove all scratches. It removed swirls, got a deeper color but a lot of deeper scratches remained 

That was on a das6pro.


----------



## Porta

BDJ said:


> Tried today on a black car, even with an orange hex pad it couldn't remove all scratches. It removed swirls, got a deeper color but a lot of deeper scratches remained
> 
> That was on a das6pro.


Remember this is a polish - not a cutting compound. orange pad on a DAS is *not* a scratch buster such as a cutting compound teamed up with a twisted wool pad on a rotary.

The expectations are to high and you can't blame the product since it's doing its job; removing swirls and amped up the gloss.

As said above, use a cutting pad and a cutting compound for deeper scratches.


----------



## Gleammachine

Porta said:


> Remember this is a polish - not a cutting compound. orange pad on a DAS is *not* a scratch buster such as a cutting compound teamed up with a twisted wool pad on a rotary.
> 
> The expectations are to high and you can't blame the product since it's doing its job; removing swirls and amped up the gloss.
> 
> As said above, use a cutting pad and a cutting compound for deeper scratches.


Exactly, I wouldn't even consider using it on a finish that had heavy defects, the product is excellent as a polish with great finishing abilities and light to med swirl removal (paint dependant).
It's not a miracle polish, that some would lead you to believe, but certainly a very nice finishing polish.


----------



## BDJ

Thanks for a reply guys.
Those scratches are not hat bad/deep as they can be, just usual medium rds.
I'll try a heavier compound, but will definitely use this as a finishing compound, as it finishes very good with a deep shine.

Cheers.


----------



## Jan

Hi, I've tried the PF, but I'm having trouble with it, can't obtain the "perfect finish" with it, I have some holograms/tiny "swirls, and I can't figure out how to remove them, have tried various methods now, any help would be very much appreciated...
I have a Flex rotary, uses an orange Sonax pad, only used 2-3drops(peas size) of PF, the area is about 2 ft x 2ft,vstarted to polish at 800 rpm and firm pressure(10kg) for 30sec. , increased speed to 1200rpm for 60 sec. Wiped of and used paint cleaner, but can't get rid of the holograms/swirls, what do I do wrong
I even tried to polish with a Sonax grey pad after polishing with the orange pad, but no difference......
I have attached a picture of it, but it's very difficult to take a pic of it, but the swirls are below the light...
I really need your help, because I don't want to spoil my time, polishing my car in the wrong way....:wall:
Kindly
Jan


----------



## rhyst

Rotary do this thats the problem finish with a da


----------



## Porta

Jan, it's hard but I can see the hazing you are talking about. In the end its all about the monkey behind the machine how is responsible for the result. Have you tested to drop the rpm down to 600-800 rpm with no pressure for 30-60 seconds? 

Finishing with rotary is not hard but it takes practice, a lot of practice, before you can master it. If the paint is hard, then its very easy if you have the right gear and decent tecnique. On the other hand, soft paints is a ***** and a totaly another story. 

It also looks that you have some minor scratches left, and are you sure that this is not what you see?


----------



## Jan

Thx rhyst and Porta, but rhyst, I don't have a da, and I'm sure I've never read that it should be necessary with a da, but maybe you're right....
Porta, it IS a big monkey behind the machine, no doubt )))
Yes, there're some minor scratches left, but it's not these I'm thinking about, it's the tiny tiny "scratches/swirls in straight lines(if possible )). )
The paint on my A3 should be hard...
I did read your post earlier in this thread, maybe I should try your procedure...
What technique do you use, is it possible to explain in here, or is it something I need to see in practice? I've searched the web for the right technique with this product, but haven't succeeded yet...
Should I drop the speed to 600-800 after polishing with a higher speed and pressure, or just polish with 600-800 in the whole process?
What will happen if I polish too long, could this be the cause....?
The section on the pic. I've polished, is a bit curved, and this causes I can't polish with a totally flat pad all the time, could this be the cause you think?
Thank you for your interest in helping resolve my problem .
Kindly
Jan


----------



## cleancar

Has this polish diminishing abrasives ? Or is it like gtechniq p1 where the polish doesn't break down ?


----------



## Jan

Is it necessary to prime your pad, when using PF/what do you do?
Kindly
Jan


----------



## Jan

I think I found out what I did wrong, when I finished polishing, I removed the residue by spraying with Sonax paint prepare, and thought it would be enough, but after trying several methods, and almost the same outcome, I finally realized that it was the residue from the polish, that kept teasing me, there was still some residue left on the paint after wiping it of, after wiping it of 2-3 times, all the haze is gone.:thumb:
:wall::newbie:
:lol:
Kindly
Jan, the biiiig monkey
Btw, how do you remove the residue from PF?


----------



## toni

Quick swipe with a *dry* microfibre and it's gone. Use Paint Prepare only after dry wiping.
If you've got that much residue that it's not coming off with a couple of swipes then you're using too much product which is caking on the paint.


----------



## Jan

Thx Toni, I think you're right, I tend to use too much of the product..... I'll have to practice some more, Learning by doing is the way to go :wave:
Kindly
Jan


----------



## CleanYourCar

Jan said:


> Thx Toni, I think you're right, I tend to use too much of the product..... I'll have to practice some more, Learning by doing is the way to go :wave:
> Kindly
> Jan


Reading through I was about to say it's marring or residue from the cloth, but good to hear that was the issue.

Seriously Sonax Perfect Finish polish is the easiest polish to use AND remove. I'd hate to see what would have been left from a 3M style polish 

Anyway at least all is well, now to crack on with the rest of the car.


----------



## toni

Jan said:


> Thx Toni, I think you're right, I tend to use too much of the product..... I'll have to practice some more, Learning by doing is the way to go :wave:
> Kindly
> Jan


After the pads had been primed, 2 small pea sized blobs are more than enough for a 50cmx50cm area.

On my first panels it was gumming as hell, due to me using too much product. And it was pretty hard to get it off.


----------



## Rascal_69

It's dam good.

Bigfoot. Yellow rupe pad

One very bad marked merc


----------



## Rascal_69

Better one I took yesterday.


----------



## Pemlar

*Prime PF?*



toni said:


> Quick swipe with a *dry* microfibre and it's gone. Use Paint Prepare only after dry wiping.
> If you've got that much residue that it's not coming off with a couple of swipes then you're using too much product which is caking on the paint.


Hi, what's the best way to prime the pad when using PF with a rotary?

/m


----------



## Flakey

Sonax polishes are diminishing or non-diminishing abrasives? Is it safe to presume that Sonax a Perfect a Finish is a one step polish similar to (may offer different cut and finish differently) Scholl Concepts S20 Blue or Menzerna PF2500?


----------



## DPG87

I recently purchased and tried this with an orange hexlogic (medium cut) pad on the DA, really impressed with the results (On a Nissan 370Z) would highly recommend it, zero dust too!!


----------



## Flakey

Nissan is soft paint so I guess any mild polish will give good results. Did it clog up the pad after a few panels?


----------



## DPG87

agreed but it really was effortless, zero dust is a huge advantage too

I can't confirm as the owner (a friend of mines who had asked me to tidy the car up for him) didnt want the full car done, I had just took the DA out to some of the worst affected areas as I went. Looking at the pad though, it didnt look like it was clogging the pad in any way


----------



## Flakey

Does anybody know if I can use a foam cutting pad with Sonax Perfect finish or I am better off getting some Sonax Cut & Finish instead? I used it on a polishing pad today and it did a fantastic job in a very short time except some very deeply etched bird droppings that have been there for over a year. I also have MF cutting pads and a wool pad.


----------



## Porta

Flakey said:


> Does anybody know if I can use a foam cutting pad with Sonax Perfect finish or I am better off getting some Sonax Cut & Finish instead? I used it on a polishing pad today and it did a fantastic job in a very short time except some very deeply etched bird droppings that have been there for over a year. I also have MF cutting pads and a wool pad.


Give it a try with the wool pad and rotary, with this combo you can remove some nasty defects, but cut & finish, since it's a compound, will remove more defects and faster.


----------



## Blackroc

Flakey said:


> Does anybody know if I can use a foam cutting pad with Sonax Perfect finish or I am better off getting some Sonax Cut & Finish instead? I used it on a polishing pad today and it did a fantastic job in a very short time except some very deeply etched bird droppings that have been there for over a year. I also have MF cutting pads and a wool pad.


You can do some excellent correction work with SPF and a microfibre pad - then finish down with the medium push pad to reveal a fantastic finish.

You can also just go with the foam pad (something like Hex Logic Orange) if the paint reacts well too it


----------



## Flakey

Thanks Porta and Blackroc. I have tried SPF on LCHT, Hex, Scholl and Sonax pads so far - all orange foam polishing pads and found that the Sonax pad works best. It does not get clogged as easily as others and is not grabby like the others. But I will take your suggestion and try it with a MF Cutting pad to see if I get what I want in terms of cut. It is a fantastic polish and I like that while you can finish a set in 90 seconds tops, if you want you can work it till the cows come home.


----------



## Flakey

Guys - one question on using Sonax perfect finish with the MF Pad. Will it clog the pad faster than a foam pad gets clogged?

I just washed the MF pad after using optimum hyper compound and though they claim it is a water based compound, I had to put in some serious elbow grease and Meg's super degreaser to clean the MF pad.


----------



## Flakey

Am I using too much Sonax Perfect Finish as my pad was completely saturated after doing just one door? Also, how do you prime the pad - with SPF or something else? I am using Sonax Orange Foam polishing pad and compared to LC HT polishing pads, these pads don't get saturated so quickly. I used two pads, one for each door.


----------



## Scrim-1-

Are you regularly spurring the pad?


----------



## Flakey

Scrim-1- said:


> Are you regularly spurring the pad?


Isn't spur required only for wool pads? I thought foam pads are cleaned with a brush, like a baby toothbrush maybe?


----------



## Flakey

Blackroc said:


> You can do some excellent correction work with SPF and a microfibre pad - then finish down with the medium push pad to reveal a fantastic finish.
> 
> You can also just go with the foam pad (something like Hex Logic Orange) if the paint reacts well too it


Forgot to ask - do I use a MF Cutting pad or a MF polishing pad?


----------



## Porta

Flakey said:


> Isn't spur required only for wool pads? I thought foam pads are cleaned with a brush, like a baby toothbrush maybe?


Spur or brush; the outcome is the same: clean the pad 

Brush the pad after each section, use less polish and you can do a car with two pads.

Theirs no right answer regarding cutting or polishing mf pads. You must try on the specific car.


----------



## Flakey

Which pad is everybody using with Sonax Perfect a Finish?


----------



## linuxmanju

Flakey said:


> Which pad is everybody using with Sonax Perfect a Finish?


I have tried it on hex blue and lc black. Hex Blue worked great and finished down superbly on my Fiat paint.

Planning to try hex green and Blue combo sometimes.


----------



## chewy_

Flakey said:


> Which pad is everybody using with Sonax Perfect a Finish?


Have used it with hex orange, hex green, and hex blue.

Imh it's a little bit on the abbrasive side to be used with a finishing pad like the blue one. Works a dream with hex orange or green depending on the level of cut your after. Next weekend I'm working on a mates Nissan Qashqai so I'll be going with Hex Green. Then I'll finish up with Car Pro Reflect or Scholl S40 on a Blue hex for a refined finish. I'll prob go with thr Car Pro reflect as I'm looking to use that up so I can get a 1 litre of Scholl S40 instead.

Sonax PF is awesome for 1 step, but you'll see the difference when you look to finish the job off with a proper finishing polish like S40 on a finishing pad for the refined and finishing touch.


----------



## Flakey

Thanks Chewy. I thnk the Sonax orange pad that I use SPF with is close to the green Hex pad. I will pick up an orange Hex and see if I can get more cut out of SPF, something like Scholl S20 maybe. But I am confused why would you use Reflect after SPF as in my experience Reflect finish is nowhere close to SPF.


----------



## chewy_

Flakey said:


> But I am confused why would you use Reflect after SPF as in my experience Reflect finish is nowhere close to SPF.


Agree with you that the aesthetics of SPF are better than Reflect. I'll give you a couple quickk reasons why I'll use Reflect after SPF. (By the way, since writing my previous post I decided I'm not going to use SPF as I have a sample of 3M Fast Cut Plus that I'd rather use up, then I'll finish and some Megs UC on my mates car (Using these 2 polishes I'll have just about enough product to go over his car using them as a 1 step compound)- plan to do his car end of June. A couple reasons why I'd use Reflect after SPF though:

-Personally I use SPF as a 1 step compound, so either orange hex or green depending on the cut needed. However, when going for the 'perfect finish' the orange and green hex pads (designed for compounding, heavy polishing) won't leave the best finish because of their cut. Btw I'm only familiar with the hex range, but after 1 step compounding I like to try and find that extra something, for the finishing touch that the orange and green hex won't give.

That's the only reason I tried SPF on the hex blue, just to see what it was capable of on a proper finishing pad. I've tried SPF, Reflect, and S40 on a blue hex and S40 leaves best finish, SPF 2nd , then Reflect.

The only reason why I'm using Reflect at all is because I have about 100ml's left in the tub and want to use it up. On a blue hex it is true that the finish isn't as good as SPF, but it is less abbrassive, so not a bad idea to try and save the clear coat where possible even though in this case in means sacrificing looks which isn't a good thing though I wouldn't mind finishing off the 100ml's or so remaining while I can and the aesthetic looks will be sacrificed on my mates car and not mine. This is the reason why I like S40, less abbrasive than SPF and on a finishing pad like blue hex leaves the best wet glossy finish with minimal cut.


----------



## Flakey

Let me put the S40 argument to rest - you have convinced me enough to try it out at some point in time :thumb: I can imagine what a 5000 grit polish can achieve.

Now coming to the Sonax Perfect Finish discussion and the pads, it is recommended by Sonax as the second step on hard paints. Step 1 is Cut & Finish using the Yellow compounding pad and step 2 is SPF with their Orange polishing pad. On medium paints, SPF is recommended as a one step polish using the Orange foam pad again. On Soft paint, they recommend that a second step using SPF and their grey finishing pad be carried out. Their yellow pad is probably as aggressive as the hex yellow, I can tell you their Orange polishing pad is as aggressive as the Hex Orange and their grey finishing pad is like the Hex black pad. Having worked extensively with SPF and Sonax Orange pad, I have achieved spectacular finish without a second step with a finishing pad. I tend to think that the abrasives break down rapidly leaving behind a very fine polish to finish to a stunning gloss. I have not tried SPF with the Hex pads yet but I guess you should get the same results with an Orange/Green hex. I rate Hex pads highly, especially their yellow compounding & Black finishing pads. I don't use Blue to finish as it is open cell and I prefer it for one step jobs like AG SRP or Dodo SNMP. So going back to the SPF discussion, I think SPF is very capable of finishing well with any polishing pad (Hex Orange/Hex Green/Sonax Orange/LC HT Tangerine) on most paints except soft paints where a finishing step may be required with SPF and a finishing pad. Recently, I was working on very hard Toyota paint (They do exist) and SPF did not cut enough on the orange pad to remove the buffer trail and compounding step so I wrote to Sonax and that's when they shared that it is perfectly fine to use a compounding pad with SPF on hard paint followed by a polishing pad. Although I would reach out for a proper compound in that case, but I am trying to push SPF to its limits and I tend to think there is more versatility to it than I have discovered so far. For me, the whole fun of a one step polish is its ability to change gears with a change of pads without resorting to another polish.

I guess I will need to test it with some Hex pads soon. Thanks for bringing it up. :buffer:

P.S. - Reflect is a bit of a disappointment. It is gathering dust now.


----------



## Rascal_69

Sonax perfect finish is awesome as you say flakey. 

Good for an enhancement. 

I quite like reflect too so far. I find it has little to no cut but finish is quite nice. 

I will be following up on my recent detail with reflect on finishing pad after spf with compound pad


----------



## Flakey

Rascal_69 said:


> Sonax perfect finish is awesome as you say flakey.
> 
> Good for an enhancement.
> 
> I quite like reflect too so far. I find it has little to no cut but finish is quite nice.
> 
> I will be following up on my recent detail with reflect on finishing pad after spf with compound pad


How did you like SPF on a compounding pad? I am yet to try that combination. Which compounding pad did you try - Hex?


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## Focusaddict

Anyone used it by hand?


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## Rascal_69

On bigfoot with yellow pad


Untitled by arfanrasul, on Flickr

On rotary with compound spot pad


Untitled by arfanrasul, on Flickr

Panel wiped too


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## chewy_

Flakey said:


> P.S. - Reflect is a bit of a disappointment.


Yeah, it's the first product that you've recommended for me that has been a bit of a disappointment. Love the Car Pro trix that you told me about. PERL is another product I've got from Car Pro that is really really good- if PERL was sold in 5L form I'd be onto it, but then I'd also be onto Sonax tyre gel as well


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## viganjashari

Subscribed


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## Flakey

*Is this the correct way to use SPF?*

Just saw this video by Sonax USA on Youtube and it mentions to spread the polish with a high amount of pressure at low RPM and then increase the speed and release pressure and it's done. 




Is the Zenith point method not applicable to Sonax Perfect Finish - I would spread without pressure at low speed, increase the speed while applying pressure and polish for a while, then release pressure & decrease the speed to finish.


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## CleanYourCar

Flakey said:


> Just saw this video by Sonax USA on Youtube and it mentions to spread the polish with a high amount of pressure at low RPM and then increase the speed and release pressure and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the Zenith point method not applicable to Sonax Perfect Finish - I would spread without pressure at low speed, increase the speed while applying pressure and polish for a while, then release pressure & decrease the speed to finish.


The Zenith point works great also. The thing with Perfect finish is it's really hard to get it wrong as it does finish so well with so little effort.


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## CleanYourCar

Rascal_69 said:


> On bigfoot with yellow pad
> 
> 
> Untitled by arfanrasul, on Flickr
> 
> On rotary with compound spot pad
> 
> 
> Untitled by arfanrasul, on Flickr
> 
> Panel wiped too


On a Rupes, you need to be trying the new Sonax EX 04-06 developed specifically for a Dual Action it offers a little more cut the Perfect Finish, but as far as I can tell to the naked eye finishes just as well.


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## Flakey

Good to know that Zenith point works well too, that's what I have been doing with SPF on their Orange pad. I just don't get enough cut with this combination like a Scholl s20 would. Hence wondering why Sonax recommends this modified technique for polishing, may be it cuts better?


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## CleanYourCar

Flakey said:


> Good to know that Zenith point works well too, that's what I have been doing with SPF on their Orange pad. I just don't get enough cut with this combination like a Scholl s20 would. Hence wondering why Sonax recommends this modified technique for polishing, may be it cuts better?


You can but try! Scholl s20 ultimately will give more cut, I genuinely don't think you can get a better finish with a rotary though than with Perfect Finish, but that's just my opinion.

All I used on this RS4 was Perfect Finish and found I could get both the cut and really unbelievable gloss:

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=311097


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## sm81

CleanYourCar said:


> On a Rupes, you need to be trying the new Sonax EX 04-06 developed specifically for a Dual Action it offers a little more cut the Perfect Finish, but as far as I can tell to the naked eye finishes just as well.


Does it have enough cut to be one-step polish if using Das6 pro?

How oily it is comparing Optimum Polish 2 and does it cuts better?

Is it DAT or SMAT polish?


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## Flakey

It is DAT. cut is similar to OPII but the finish is spectacular.


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