# Hardened glue residue, won't come off!



## Smanderson117 (Jan 19, 2015)

Hi guys, recently took the badges off my S60 D5 and there was glue residue left behind. Went to hit it with some AG tar and glue remover but as soon as I went to rub it I realised the glue residue was rock hard!

I tried claying (for sake of trying it really) which just tore up the clay, tried lots and lots of AG tar and glue remover and rubbing with a MF. I then got really mad and I used some rag soaked in petrol, leaving it on to penetrate etc and it has made a marginal improvement. I even tried picking it with my fingernail and it did more damage to me than me to it. It's quite raised as well and I believe it would ruin any polishing pads I put near it.

I'm already committed to giving the area a quick polish so I don't mind having to do that but I need to get the stuff off first :wall:

Any help would be much appreciated guys!


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## dchapman88 (Mar 17, 2016)

Have you got any wet/dry paper in your arsenal? 

Could try flattening it down?


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## rob267 (Nov 27, 2015)

What about a stanley blade held flat to take the worst of it off the try tar remover or petrol.

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## MDC250 (Jan 4, 2014)

Take it you have tried gentle heat when removing the badges..? Not the warmest time of year for debadging so wonder if the colder weather has a bearing?


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Try and get your hands on some Autosmart Tardis. Soak a make-up pad with it, and leave on the residue. It may take some time to take effect, just keep checking it. 

In any case, go gently. You don't want to damage your boot lid and have to get it painted. 

I hope you get sorted. 

Cooks


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## Mcpx (Mar 15, 2016)

The normal method of removing badges is to heat them up which softens the glue and then slice them off with a piece of fishing line. The remaining glue residue can then be removed with a microfibre while still warm before a final polish.

Here you go






Be aware that you do have to get it quite hot, which is not great for cold paint, so slow and steady. And take care, as Larry demonstrates by burning his hand on the badge when he takes it off!


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## L200wrap (Apr 30, 2017)

Get yourself an "Eraser Wheel" 3M (other brands available).... An electric drill to attach it to. Once you've heated the residue up with a heat gun....... Hit it with the eraser wheel.


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## Fentum (May 1, 2017)

My go to for this and the adhesive used on wheel weights is Koch Chemie's Eulex M. Excellent removal properties without too much friction and marring.

Peter


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## fabiolous (Mar 14, 2017)

Another vote for heating, the easy way to remove that.


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## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

Heat it well. If it doesn't work try a denibber perhaps?


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## Venkman (Apr 22, 2013)

Cookies said:


> Try and get your hands on some Autosmart Tardis. Soak a make-up pad with it, and leave on the residue. It may take some time to take effect, just keep checking it.
> 
> In any case, go gently. You don't want to damage your boot lid and have to get it painted.
> 
> ...


I did exactly this and it worked after 3-4 hits. There was a tiny amount of glue/foam left so heated carefully with heat gun and hand technique (if too hot for your hand, it's too hot for paint) then pulled the final bits off using blutak.

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## Smanderson117 (Jan 19, 2015)

Thanks for all the advice guys, I've never had issues in the past and tbh I've usually soaked a bit of tar and glue remover, used my pressure washer at an angle to blast the badges and most of the glue off then remove the rest with more T&G remover. I had actually reached the end of daylight by the time I'd tried petrol with this, I didn't think heat would be too conducive with it being absolutely rock solid but I shall give it a go next time. A hairdrier and a bit of patience will serve me well I hope. 

I didn't have any tardis to hand which is normally my go to T&G remover as I find it is absolutely savage to most things bonded to the paint so if the heat is struggling I'll have to order some in and try that. 

All failing I will try the Eraser wheel method thank you.

I didn't want to try a blade, wet and dry or de nibber as I would probably end up really gouging/damaging the paintwork knowing my luck! Honestly this stuff is spikey and harder than nails, pics don't do it justice! I will try to have a go at it this weekend with some heat and shall report back, thank you guys


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## 20vKarlos (Aug 8, 2009)

AutoSmart JelSol eats this stuff for fun! 

Try it out at like £5 a can it's worth having in the arsenal too

Edit - after looking at the picture again there isn't much in the way of rubber remaining... I think wet and dry is the best option should you have a machine to polish it up with after :thumb:


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## BrummyPete (Jun 10, 2010)

I've just took my badges off my V40 and it's was really easy to take off, in fact the easiest ones on any car I've owned, either they have used a different process on the older cars or someone has re stuck them on with some type of glue

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## Forsh (Jun 13, 2014)

BrummyPete said:


> ...or someone has re stuck them on with some type of glue


I suspect this is where the difficulty lies, 3M tape and the like should be easy shifted with the methods already mentioned - personally I'd reach for the caramel wheel but a bodyshop de-nibber might be in order if it's been glued










Or superglue debonder if that's what's been used?


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## Smanderson117 (Jan 19, 2015)

After all the suggestions I finally got time to have a go about 2 weeks ago. I tried hairdrier as no heat gun, no joy at all. I tried more T&G remover on make up pads soaked on, again no joy. Yesterday I decided to say f*** it and wet sand it. I've never used sandpaper on finished paint before, years ago I had some experience on a crashed motorbike doing a bit of fillering and rattle canning but I just decided to use the knowledge I've gained on here to help me out! :thumb:

Taped off the light and set to work with 2000 grit well lubricated with water and washing up liquid. I tried to keep pressure even using a sanding block and it actually took quite a while to get through the glue so god knows what had been used! :doublesho

Ended up with this on both sides, looked scary and uneven so was actually worried at this stage :lol:



















Then went to get the machine out only to remember I actually needed to order more orange pads and only had green pads left :wall: Used M105 and after one pass you could still see marks quite a lot, decided to hit it again and used increased pressure and it came good! Excuse the residue I hadn't wiped properly just enough to see the results:










If you look very closely under certain light conditions you can still faintly see the bits where it looks deeper on the initial sanding pics but you have to try really hard and come summer this will be addressed with the correct pads and equipment :lol:

Topped back up with Sonax BSD to match the rest of the car and was very happy till I discovered someone must have opened their door a bit hard:










as that crack wasnt there 2 nights ago when I was changing the side marker bulb! 

Second hand one at £25 on ebay so that will get ordered but it's very annoying!


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## Smanderson117 (Jan 19, 2015)

Also please ignore my grey trim, used PERL neat and it didnt even tint it, some solution finish is necessary I think!


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## JamesRS5 (Oct 8, 2014)

It almost looks like you’ve gone through the clearcoat in two places in the first picture!


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## Smanderson117 (Jan 19, 2015)

JamesRS5 said:


> It almost looks like you've gone through the clearcoat in two places in the first picture!


Yeah it looks odd but it polished up fine with no colour transfer or anything else indicative of lacquer removal, still odd but this was my first go at wet sanding and I jumped in at the deep end so it could've gone much worse :lol:


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## Forsh (Jun 13, 2014)

I don't know what the finish is like on Volvos but you're going to have to do the rest of the car now to match the orange peel free patch on the boot!


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## Smanderson117 (Jan 19, 2015)

Forsh said:


> I don't know what the finish is like on Volvos but you're going to have to do the rest of the car now to match the orange peel free patch on the boot!


Haha well the rest of the finish is quite good actually but those two spots do look really deep and reflective compared to the rest of the paintwork that hasn't seen any machine action just a decon and BSD! Gives me incentive for better weather the other side of Christmas I guess! :thumb:


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