# rust bubble treatment



## gttjames (Jul 23, 2009)

A couple of years ago i had the o/s sill replaed, at the front where it joins theres a few bubbles underneath the paint - its not rotted through. Just lifting the paint. This part is behind a sill skirt so not visible but i should really treat it now?

What should i so, wire brush bit on a drill and take it down to clean metal, then what sort of product should i apply?

thanks


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## robdcfc (Sep 17, 2012)

Rust bullet works


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## Kiashuma (May 4, 2011)

Bilt Hamber is meant to be good. Not used it before but it gets spoken highly of here on DW :thumb:


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## Aaran (Sep 18, 2007)

FE-123 followed by an overcoat of epoxy mastic 121.

its dammed good stuff


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## Mik93 (Dec 17, 2012)

Yes you absolutely should treat it now. As my grandmother said "a stitch in time saves nine". 

I'm cleaning up my own sills at the moment. Rustbusters and Bilt Hamber are both good. Take your pick and stick to the instructions.

It will become apparent when you remove the paint but it sounds as though it is rusting at the weld join. If the weld has rusted from the other side, it will need fixing again, so take it back to whoever fixed it for you. 

When welding sills or any other box section, weld-through primer (e.g. Bilt Hamber Etchweld) must be used on all bare metal. When the job is finished shoot plenty of cavity wax inside the sill. This is good practice anyway, but will also help if you can't get at all the inside welds with etch primer and paint after it is fixed, the cavity wax inside the sill will stop rust forming. 

Any bare metal or unprotected welds inside the sill will eventually rust through again, no matter how nice and shiny it loks on the outside. Even if the car is sat in a garage, condensation will form on all metal surfaces as the air temp goes up and down.


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## gttjames (Jul 23, 2009)

Thanks guys i will get some of the products recomended and see what i can do


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## EliteCarCare (Aug 25, 2006)

Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, an excellent performer, used it on a friend's car about 5 yrs ago and the rust hasn't shown any signs of coming back. :thumb:

Alex


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## gttjames (Jul 23, 2009)

Think iv got myself confused, would this be a correct process or let me know if im wrong anywhere

Clean area/wire wheel
apply Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (or similar) and follow instructions
then apply paint or underseal type product as my area im doing isnt visible

cheers


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## gttjames (Jul 23, 2009)

bump ?


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## Mik93 (Dec 17, 2012)

Yes, remove rust back to bare metal. Use sandpaper, wire bush in drill, etc. It is hard work but keep at it until the rust has gone. If there are any scabs, chisel or scrape them off before wire brushing. 

As soon as it is bare steel you need to protect it. To get any tiny bits of rust left behind in pitting, use a rust converter. 

After rust converter has cured, sand it back to bare metal again (which leaves converted rust in any small pits), as zinc needs to be applied to bare steel to provide galvanic protection. Do not apply zinc directly over rust converter without sanding it back again as zinc needs to be applied to bare steel. Keying it with sandpaper will help it stick to the metal. After every step make sure everything is clean. Degreaser and kitchen paper towels is the way to go. 

Then apply a high quality zinc primer. Read instructions and wait at least as long before overcoating. Longer in cold weather. 

Then a top coat with your choice of paint (body colour, stone chip etc).

After it is completely dry, leave for a week or so, put clear wax over the top (this step only if it is going to be covered by sill covers or under car). 

And you are done!


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