# Spit Shining - good explaination



## Deadlock

Posted this on UKMKIVS forum, though i'd share it here::thumb:

http://www.fk1usa.com/forum.htm

A few people have been trying out this method, I wanted to find a good guide before trying it out, Found one and I thought I should share!!!!!!!!!

The classic, proper method of spit shining:

Spit shining is for building heavy coats, deepening the look, by preventing the solvents to re-liquify and remove the previous wax layers.
If you remove a hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. You'll just see a shiny, waxed/QDd surface - but it's not spit shining.

Usually, a wax with higher solvent content can/will remove the previous layer. Heavy carnaubas don't have high solvent contents, so they can build pretty thick layers with this method. You need distilled water (eventually QD; as it is up to 95% water - but preferably carnauba QD, without alcohol) to neutralize the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears.

First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultra fine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.

It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.

Theoretically, each carnauba paste will work well, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of a wax with QD is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
The golden rule with heavy carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, the dried Victorias are horrendous to remove...
Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!

The reason to use a damp applicator/towel/cotton balls etc., is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to stop the fine coats of wax sticking to the applicator, thereby encouraging the wax to build thin, fine layers.
Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and it has different beading characteristics; with even smaller beads, which have far bigger contact angles. The durability is about the same (or slightly better), but the improved, beautiful, mile-deep appearance is worth it.

So, once again: When you spit shine, you spritz water onto the surface BEFORE waxing, and WHILE you wax. The coats must be so thin and the application must be so thorough that you shouldn't have haze/residue. If haze appears, the application was either too thick or too short. With the water you switch the solvents off and this allows the wax to build very heavy layers. That's why you should avoid QDs with alcohol, because it compromises the wax buildup. Beading characteristics is different, jetting is better, and the beads have bigger contact angles. Just do 5 layers with 30 minute breaks, and you'll see what spit shining is about...

When you want to spit shine, I assume that your finish is in great condition - because this method is for reaching another dimension in depth. You can do it either way, but I used to start over a pre-existing wax layer.
The goal of the liquid (aka water or QD) is to neutralize the paste's solvents. While a QD can glossify the surface even more, it contains its own solvents and sometimes alcohol. That's why the water is (theoretically) better. Most QDs are up to 97% water, so the difference is not that big.


----------



## Bence

Well known words... I remember it from somewhere...


----------



## burns863

Nice Post :thumb: But is that not what most peoples methodology of spit shining is on DW anyway? I certainly have always thought that was the way!


----------



## Benny Boy

thanks . good write up


----------



## TOGWT

See also - http://www.detailuniversity.com/forums/school-exterior-detailing/1426-spit-shining.html


----------



## Luke M

Daily random thread bump.


----------



## cleancar

linkys no worky in post #1

edit ! because the post was 2006 lol


----------



## Lowiepete

Spit and Polish explained here too...

Start @ post #124

With Season's Greetings,
Steve


----------



## Focusaddict

I saw a video on utube of someone applying wax to a wet car with a foam applicator then wiping it off with a plush microfibre towel/cloth, suppose this worked in similar principle.


----------



## Lowiepete

Focusaddict said:


> I saw a video on utube of someone applying wax to a wet car with a foam applicator then wiping it off with a plush microfibre towel/cloth, suppose this worked in similar principle.


That might have been me. However, that wasn't spit'n'polish which requires
a lot more working of the wax. It also needs to haze off first, before it gets
spritzed with QD.

If there's any interest, I'll do a video in the spring on how to do this. It's
very therapeutic!

With Season's Greetings,
Steve


----------



## Luke M

Lowiepete said:


> That might have been me. However, that wasn't spit'n'polish which requires
> a lot more working of the wax. It also needs to haze off first, before it gets
> spritzed with QD.
> 
> If there's any interest, I'll do a video in the spring on how to do this. It's
> very therapeutic!
> 
> With Season's Greetings,
> Steve


I'd be interested Steve:thumb:


----------

