# Rotary polishing – No experience straight to car



## noop (Jan 5, 2007)

Evening folks

I've got myself a Makita rotary polisher and it's been sat in the box for some time. I want to use it, but fear of damaging the paint puts me off. I do have a PC, but am finding it takes some time to get results

I am planning to get a scrap panel, but am struggling to get one locally. If I went straight onto the car, is it likely that I will do much damage? Are there any signs to look out fo before damage occursr? I have a PTG so can measure depth before hand.

Having seen this video on youtube I am wondering if it is that easy to burn through the paint?






Thanks


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## magic919 (Mar 11, 2007)

If you use it like that, then yes. But I think Dave deliberately burnt through there.

I'd just read the Rotary guide (written by Dave...) and then get on. That's what I did. Keep touching the paint and checking temp until you are more confident.


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## Silva1 (Sep 16, 2007)

Yeh Dave did mean to burn through
Firstly you shouldnt be working more than speed 3.5 - in the video hes working at speed 6 which is 3000rpm if am correct

But if you have been using the pc before hand then you shouldnt be as easy to damage the workout


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## noop (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks for your comments. 

With regards to the video, I meat it to read I knew he was trying to damage the paint, but it took a few attempts to do the damage.


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## Silva1 (Sep 16, 2007)

Well in that case what are you worrying about


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## noop (Jan 5, 2007)

Silva1 said:


> Well in that case what are you worrying about


lol I dont know, just read loads on how easy it is to mess up in the wrong hands. I'll take it easy when I do and keep checking progress.

oh and I'll practise on my mates car instead


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## dubnut71 (Jul 25, 2006)

Quote Harley at 5 mins 20.... "There's Primer"!!!!!:thumb:

Classic:buffer::buffer:


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## Jakedoodles (Jan 16, 2006)

As shown in that vid, with a car that has a decent level of CC, it is quite difficult to burn through. In terms of rotary damage what you have to watch out for is the edge of your pad catching and plastics. You can rip paint right off plastic without much difficulty if the edge of your pad catches it.


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## weegaz22 (Jul 8, 2008)

you shouldnt really be concentrating the polisher in one spot like dave is, should always keep it moving, id says that the clearcoats taken a fair amount of abuse there, just keep checking panel heat (if its metal)


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

The key thing I would recommend before and above anything else with a rotary polisher - exercise common sense, and respect the machine.... then you'll be far safer


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## hardhitter (Aug 28, 2008)

The meguiars videos on youtube might help you. Some good advice there.


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## dsolds (Feb 13, 2008)

That video of Dave actually shows just how much abuse you can give a panel before damage is done. The burn through was not exactly easy even though it was intentional.

I bought the G220 and a Makita at the same time. After one panel with the G220 I got bored with the slow progress and moved up to the makita having read through Dave's guides. Now I only tend to use the G220 on plastic bumpers etc where excess heat can do damage so quickly. It can also be useful where soft or sticky paint is encountered.

Start with a softish pad and some light compound and keep the thing moving. Max speed about 4 on the makita. Mask up trims etc beforehand so as not to damage them. Also you might want to start with a flat panel such as a bonnet so gravity is helping you keep the right pressure right whilst you work on the technique. 

Get stuck in, just start slowly and gently. You will find the makita a wonderful machine to use once you are comfortable with it.


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## noop (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks to everyone for the advice, I'll give it a go if the weather lets up! 

If I do a good job I'll post some pics, if not - then I never took it out of the box!! 

Cheers


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## alan hanson (May 21, 2008)

Sorry if this has been mentioned before, could always get a scrap panel before and have ago get used to the weight and feel of it


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## Saqib200 (May 13, 2008)

All good sound advice on here. Just to add - stay well away fro swage lines and edges as it is a sure way of burning through the paint. If in doubt, tape it up with masking tape (you will find that you will often have to mask and then re-mask as you go round the car to protect surrounding panels and panel edges).

Scrap panel advised, however I went from a polisher straight to my pride and joy ten years ago and have never had an issue.


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Scrap panels are going to be getting harder to source for free with the price of scrap metal going up - bodyshops get money for bent metal these days, but still worth a little investment none the less


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## noop (Jan 5, 2007)

I tried to get a scap panel from about 5 body shops in the area. Scrap man had beaten me to them all. 

Found one near a mates garage, and asked them to drop one off if anything comes up.


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## Captain Morgan (May 7, 2007)

however plastics are another matter altogether as I found out this weekend. 

be very very very careful on plastics


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## B_Walker (Aug 21, 2008)

I have the silverline rotary for the first time not so long ago and i went straight onto the car with no real practise, just went softly and used a minor polish ( Final Finish) just to bring out some shine

Just don't be scared and take your time with it all, so you dont need to rush each panel. Like me i will get back n it again soon for my winter potection and try do some more depth to get rid of some minor swirl marks:buffer:


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## Tone Loc (Aug 22, 2007)

Captain Morgan said:


> however plastics are another matter altogether as I found out this weekend.
> 
> be very very very careful on plastics


This is what puts me off going straight for a rotary. Are plastics that easy to damage even on a slow speed?


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## B_Walker (Aug 21, 2008)

Just tape it up and just take it easy, thats what i did with my car and worked well


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