# Spray Paining New Setup Advice please....



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Hi, im new to Detailing World,

Ive decided to retake up spray paining after around 15 years off. When i did it previously there was very little information/support available for new painters other than the guy in the supplies shop. As a result there were a few harsh lessons leared along the way. Hopefully this time around with so much info and support available it will be a smoother transition.

After purchasing a house with a detatched double garage and central heating, having the space it seemed logical to take it up again. I plan to restore older cars and will be painting the odd bumper/wing/Bonnet etc... I have a professional repairer for any heavy damage or big jobs. To be honest im looking to it as a serious hobby as i get great satisfaction from bringing cars back to life.

Below is an overview of my setup equiptment 

Compressor (SIP 270L 7.5hp). with SIP Regulator and water trap.
Devilbiss GTI Pro Lite 1.3 with TE20 Air cap for Clear Coat 
Gun regulator and inline water trap.
Clarke PGF 1.4 Gravity Fed paintgun for Base Coat
Clarke PGF 1.8 Gravity Fed paintgun for Primer
Currently using Gerson 2k Disposable masks but will be investing in a respirator soon.
5sp manhine polisher with white compound head.

How does this set up look? My primer and Base coat guns are quite cheap ones however ive gone with the approach that the GTI Pro Lite will make up for it in the clear stage (maybe im totally wrong With this?)

My main aim at this stage is to get my setup right,so that I know any issues i come up against will be down to me and not my equiptment.

thanks in advance for any support.

Paul


----------



## 3gdean (Jun 18, 2011)

decent sized compressor
need an oil trap aswell.
presume you will be using solvent based paint?
if so i would use the devilbiss for base and lacquer with thorough cleaning. if not devilbiss for basecoat as this is always gun finish.
clearcoat can be polished and 1.4 is heavy for colour especially metallics and pearls.


----------



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Thanks for the reply, appreciate it. 
I used the 1.4 for a bumper last week and did find it heavy for the base coat, I think I'll have a look for a decent base coat gun .

I got some reaction on the first coat, I cleaned and panel wiped it thoroughly so I'm assuming it was just me putting it  on to thick. It was solvent based. 2:1 base coat & stabilizer


----------



## Graeme1 (Dec 9, 2006)

I would recommend and older GTiw for basecoat of water and GTi for solvent over the Clarke. I may be getting rid of my old gti w I don't use any more. 1.3 tip so could be used for either. Or a devilbiss flg for solvent. Great but can't be used for water.


----------



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

I used the gti pro lite this afternoon for solvent base coat and clear, job came out great. I think it will be mainly solvent so I'll have a look for a used gti or an flg,

Bumper I did today was silver, I learned a quick lesson in sanding scratches being visible even though I flatened the primer with 320, 400,600 then 800.(clearly I just missed them) Anyone recommend a good method of guide coating?, I've seen a few guide powders available but they look a bit pricey for what they are.


----------



## Graeme1 (Dec 9, 2006)

Just use some black aerosol.


----------



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Just painted a 206 bonnet from silver to green very happy with it,

@Graeme1, i used some matt black as a quide coat, worked a treat thanks, i was worried about reaction using an aerosol but was fine, got a couple of heavy patches of clear on the edges, i put it on quite heavy as the panel was flat,

I have quite a few dust nibs,probs more visible due to it being a dark colour, I plan to 1200 wet sand them then do then enitre bonnet with 1500 then 2000 , then G3 Machine Polish,

does that sound a decent approach?















https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/
[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160307/3a1a5f1f9fcd7d080d1024df15e536fd.jpg


----------



## 3R PROJECT (Jul 14, 2012)

For your kind of set up, buy a devilbiss gti. 1.3 for your base and 1.4 110 for clear. It will be nice and slow and it is not as sensitive with pressure drops from the small compressor. Try Dupont valuclear and lay it down nice, slow and heavy like old good all straight gloss. It's a cinch to work with and wont sag on edges if you over do it. Added benefit, it dries nicely even if not baked. If you dont want to trade your pro lite at least get a t10 for it and use that for base. Make sure your nibs are irregular in shape cause if their not you have water in your line. Best use sonax cut and finish over farecla since youre air drying cause it wont stick. If you like spay guide, try the kovax ones they work a treat. Oh, the most important part.....have fun


----------



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Great thank you im defo going to but a new gun for base. The nibs are defiantly dust (I forgot to wet the floor , doh!) As it's air dried how longs best to leave it before flatting ?


----------



## 3R PROJECT (Jul 14, 2012)

That depends on the clear you used and ambient temperatures. Two days should be fine no matter what. But depending on conditions it could be done sooner. Unless your clear was hs and or even worse uhs which wont really dry good or smooth out without baking unless you went up on the thinner. Then i would wait more.


----------



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Just checked it this morning and dont think it's hard enough to polish, it's a friends car so might just give it back to them and polish it in a week or so, is there a rule of thumb for knowing when it's hard enough ? 

My method or sticking my finger nail in at the edge doesn't seem too scientific 

Had a look for DuPont valuclear I can't find anything on it ?


----------



## Graeme1 (Dec 9, 2006)

That's about it really. Or pushing your thumb and see if it leaves a print. 

If you have a DA look into 3000 trizacts. Makes life a lot easier!


----------



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

I have a da, it's electric and has a very high rpm, I'd be nervous about putting it anywhere near my fresh paint, maybe an air powered one would be better or do I just need some brave pills ?


----------



## 3gdean (Jun 18, 2011)

depends on the "throw" of the da, you want a 2.5mm orbit sander for sanding 800 grit and above.

trizacts ftw

may be worthwhile trying your clear coat out with the clarke gun. rather than dishing another 250 straight away.


----------



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

I'll give it a go, I'm paining everything in sight at the min just for the experience, the green bonnet I did yesterday morning is in a sorry state at the minute, I flatted it with 1500 then 2000 then g3 and I don't think the clear was fully dry, it's very streaky and Dull in spots, think I'll give it a week or so then RE compound it, failing that I'll flat it down and RE clear it, B##locks!


----------



## 3R PROJECT (Jul 14, 2012)

theshoe202 said:


> Just checked it this morning and dont think it's hard enough to polish, it's a friends car so might just give it back to them and polish it in a week or so, is there a rule of thumb for knowing when it's hard enough ?
> 
> My method or sticking my finger nail in at the edge doesn't seem too scientific
> 
> Had a look for DuPont valuclear I can't find anything on it ?


Dupont Valueclear VR-1120. Contact you local axalta rep and figure out under which brand is sold around your parts.


----------



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Just thought I would share a few of my bumper I did on Saturday (first time painting something other than a scrap panel in 15yrs!) excuse the corner where some Burke scraped me in the car park today !

>What went well:

°overall finish I'm happy with. Colour match is spot on I blended the base just past the bumper corners then cleared the entire bumper, there was a few marks initially near where the bumper met the quarter but I decided to live with them rather than base coat right to the edge .

°First time I've ever used a decent paint gun, used the gti pro lite for both base and clear,

°Flattened and polished nicely

>What didn't go so well:

°Primer was put on to dry, making it awkward to sand ,

°Lack of guide coat meant there are a few scratches visible in the day light.

°Bad light in my garage meant it was awkward to see how the paint was going on.

>Some Burke scraped it today !

Constrictive comments/ advice welcome !


----------

