# Being a Craftsman



## Steampunk

*Being a Craftsman
*







Craft at some level, is just a process of learning from those who came before you, who pass on their knowledge so that you can learn quicker than they did. So that you have the base understanding to take the subject to the next level, and refine it; make the science even more precise… At another level, it's a process of making something your own, and that individualistic journey. To make something crudely, in a new way, that's outside the predefined norm. To improve your new science over the years, and then pass it on, to someone who will have the time to make it even more perfect from the back of your originality… This is how humanity gets better. This is how we advance, and become greater.

Detailing is a craft. Craftsmen can be artists, or scientists, or some combination thereof. There's both intuition and academic knowledge that controls the world we want to influence; to make something beautiful, and perfect, underneath our hands. It's based on the classical knowledge of those who came before, and that which we build ourselves. As a craftsman, your advancement to the craft doesn't have to be perfect, or applicable to anyone else but yourself, but it needs to be built upon the classical structure of those that came before, to advance what you yourself want to achieve. You honor the craftsman, by building on their lifetime's work, and being better. 
*
Code of Honor*​
You don't honor craftsmen by trying to copy them exactly. If you do, you missed the point. You don't honor them with your arrogance, by ignoring what they've done as frippery, or dismissing their life's work as unnecessary energy that you don't have to spend. If you do, you've missed the opportunity to build upon the wheel, and are lost to the cause of reinventing it. Take the time to understand the framework upon which you build, to verify its solidity, and then take it further… Someone else's life has bought you that time. To be better, or at least, to be more 'you'. That's a gift. 








Cite your mentors. Tell the world who gave you the knowledge that you built on… I know non-diminishing polish technology, and much of wetsanding, because of Kevin Brown. I know linear diminishing polishes, because of DaveKG. I got to understand that hybrid system of Scholl's polishes, because of Russel @ Reflectology. Kelly @ KDS Detailing's posts took my understanding of practical contouring and leveling a step further… Dom Colbeck @ Dodo-Juice helped advance my knowledge of waxes. What I know, I built on the backs of those who took the time to blaze their own path, and they helped me cut my own.

You disrespect your mentors, by forgetting where they got you. You disrespect them, by not taking what they taught you, and passing it on. You disrespect them, by not striving for what they strove for; by letting their journey die with you, because you won't pass on the baton they gave you. Share the knowledge, share what you have yourself learned, and you'll keep the craft alive. The knowledge of our industry. This is our guild.

*Imperfect Blade​*
I love to cook. I love the sound of vegetables hitting the oil in a hot pan when you stir-fry. I love the scent of fresh cut ginger and garlic. I love the feel of setting the completed plate on the table. That first bite, when you're exhausted, at the end of your day…

Kitchen knives make a great deal of difference between frustration and pleasure when cooking. They can make your work easier, or harder. I bought a Zakuri Tosagata Bocho, which as some will know is quite cheap, and primitive in its make, but under the surface is a good tool. The following weeks and months spent on sharpening stones with it to make it better, gave me my own 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' moment, and made it my own. Inherently, what I did to it was crude from my inexperience, but the result feels more natural to cook with than anything else I've ever used.








I made an imperfect blade, but it's mine. The smiths in Tosa made a good tool. I removed some of the things that made it what it was, but I also made it mine, and when I did it started feeling better than ever. Fear didn't stop me. As such, I got to experience something that connected to me with what I love to do in a new way, and that's a moment I think anyone who loves good craftsmanship should have. The ability to experience craft at its most imperfect, but which you can utterly call your own.

Don't detail for the perfection… Detail for the feeling of trying twelve trim dressings, and finding one that finally sticks. Detail for the moment when the polisher starts to feel like an extension of your hands, and you can visualize the paint under the pad in your mind's eye. Detail for the moment of when you can wash your car, smelling the scent of the shampoo, and enjoy the day while your muscle memory lets you tune-out without causing any harm… This is your craft. It's built on everything you've read; everything you've seen; everything you've ever done. It's your own 'Zen and the Art of Detailing'.

When you do this, you become the craftsman, and you don't ever want to stop getting better. It starts with an imperfect result, that nevertheless feels utterly like 'you'.

This is why scrap-panels are suggested… It isn't just to let you make mistakes safely. It's to let you feel uninhibited, and when you do, you start feeling safe applying the advanced skills you practiced freely, on something you value more. It lets you become a craftsman, before it ever matters that you are. 
*
Science and Muscle Memory*​
There are two components to excellence… Understanding, and feel. First, you must be able to envision in your mind's eye what is happening, before it even happens. Understand the science, and imagine it. Then you have to train your body to do what your mind can imagine, and make it real.

Close your eyes, and let yourself go… Imagine the particles of a polish, buffered by the hydraulics of the lubricant. The polishing pad controls how big the clumps are by the size of its cells, altering the depth of cut, and its material matrix controls whether the lubricant is dispersed or concentrated, to increase or decrease the pressure isolating those abrasive from the surface. Imagine its motion over the paint like an animated graphic. As the pad moves over the paint, it's plowing a field, which light will reflect and refract off of. The ideal is to level the topography of the field, and make it as fine and consistent as it can be. That's paintwork correction.








Spray an LSP or QD on the surface, and close your eyes… It's less than 20% solids; the rest just lets it spread. You're just leveling that minimal film, and spreading it so that the 80% carrier fluid can evaporate evenly. The reason you have a streak, is that this is a thick patch which is taking longer for the carrier to evaporate than another, so you have to even it out. Buff it with your microfiber, and you're good. If you're getting streaks, more than likely some environmental cause is making the carrier flash too fast or too slow, or the microfiber you're using isn't absorbing the carrier so that the solids are evenly spread. You can envision the process, and then diagnose the solution. You just have to close your eyes for a moment, and imagine it. 










*
Finis*​
Every craftsman is their own person. How you view the world will come out through what you do. Even if you change your trade, what you learned before you'll carry with you. The engineer, the graphic artist, the carpenter, the chemist, etc. All will bring to the craft of detailing what they are. All are worth listening to… Yet, you will become something different... Because you are. You'll create an imperfect result, that suits you, and will become more perfect in time. If you respect the craft, you'll share it, and prevent what you love dying. The patience to have apprentices, and treat them well, is how you will be remembered. Craftsmen find excellence not in the beginning, but in the end of what they do.










*Thank you for reading!*
_
*- Steampunk - *_​


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## Alan W

What a superb Thread Steampunk, I wish I had your command of the English language. Your ability to put into words such thought provoking and heartfelt feelings is masterful. I was lost for words when I read the Thread and, even now, can’t think of a meaningful reply. I don’t think I’m alone as nobody else has replied either.

I’m going to go and read it again, for the 4th time!

Thank you for such insightful Threads. :thumb:

Alan W


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## DLGWRX02

Couldn’t agree more with Alan.


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## Hoppo32

I've read this a couple of times now but all the way through it all i keep getting in my head is Baz Luhrmann telling me to wear sunscreen.


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## Titanium Htail

I repair clocks plus make stained glass windows those skills are aways improving just as with detailing you never stop leaning, to observe the best then copy that, with time understanding plus improving skills.

I watched a guy repairing the wood frames from old Rolls Royce's plus furniture craftsman which taught me a lot of helpful things.

Thx Steampunk.

John Tht.


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## suds

Apologies Steampunk, I missed this thread amidst the craziness of a surreal lockdown. A very timely reminder that this forum is meant to be a platform for excellence, where members post responses to encourage others to try and push their activity to another level - continuous improvement. :thumb:


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## BrianGT

Hi Steampunk,

I've just recently joined the forum but I was reading it prior to this.

I read everyone of your posts I come across. You are a Peoples person and give so much of yourself to others without any shred of ego. Zero.

When you reply to a question you answer that person directly with knowledge, help and sincerity. You don't just throw in a generic answer and that takes of your time. 

I'm of the opinion that if you don't share knowledge with others then you don't actually have any knowledge, only secrets.

You share yours freely and to anyone. That is a true gift of selflessness.

I have worked with tools my whole life and have only recently got in to machine polishing. I don't want to get by. I have to be in control of the machine and the process as a matter of pride in my workmanship. So I read and watch.

I did a neighbours VW Tiguan in black. I use Scholl polishes and love how they work. Knowing I was doing the VW I bought 2 Blue Spider pads. I watched a Scholl Concepts video of using the pads and how to prime them. I was going to be using S3.
It didn't work. I started on the bonnet and the pad grabbed and felt so awkward. I did half of the bonnet and then went back to a green Rupes pad where the process flowed.

It bothered me and then I came across one of your posts where you write about how to prime the pad. It needs more product at the start. 
The next time I used a Blue pad I followed your directions and .....Bingo....I was working with it and not against it. 

This Forum is lucky to have your knowledge and experience that is given so freely and so I feel no embarrassment about singing your praises.

Thank you, Brian


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## Alan W

BrianGT said:


> This Forum is lucky to have your knowledge and experience that is given so freely and so I feel no embarrassment about singing your praises.
> 
> Thank you, Brian


I totally agree and well said Brian! :thumb:

Alan W


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## Steampunk

BrianGT said:


> Hi Steampunk,
> 
> I've just recently joined the forum but I was reading it prior to this.
> 
> I read everyone of your posts I come across. You are a Peoples person and give so much of yourself to others without any shred of ego. Zero.
> 
> When you reply to a question you answer that person directly with knowledge, help and sincerity. You don't just throw in a generic answer and that takes of your time.
> 
> I'm of the opinion that if you don't share knowledge with others then you don't actually have any knowledge, only secrets.
> 
> You share yours freely and to anyone. That is a true gift of selflessness.
> 
> I have worked with tools my whole life and have only recently got in to machine polishing. I don't want to get by. I have to be in control of the machine and the process as a matter of pride in my workmanship. So I read and watch.
> 
> I did a neighbours VW Tiguan in black. I use Scholl polishes and love how they work. Knowing I was doing the VW I bought 2 Blue Spider pads. I watched a Scholl Concepts video of using the pads and how to prime them. I was going to be using S3.
> It didn't work. I started on the bonnet and the pad grabbed and felt so awkward. I did half of the bonnet and then went back to a green Rupes pad where the process flowed.
> 
> It bothered me and then I came across one of your posts where you write about how to prime the pad. It needs more product at the start.
> The next time I used a Blue pad I followed your directions and .....Bingo....I was working with it and not against it.
> 
> This Forum is lucky to have your knowledge and experience that is given so freely and so I feel no embarrassment about singing your praises.
> 
> Thank you, Brian


This is probably the nicest thing anyone's ever said to me... Thank you. 

There are people who took time to help me. I don't want their excellence to end.

Scholl's a unique system; I'm glad that post could help...

Polishes are like abrasive particulates suspended in gear oil. The oil's the buffer. It contains detergents and lubricant components in its emulsified blend. The abrasives are either linear (reducing from maximum to minimum in a linear curve), non linear (like Scholl, where the transition from maximum to minimum is almost 'explosive'.), or non-diminishing (where they do not reduce in micron scale at all.)... Super-dense lubricant emulsions (Polishes which only require 4-pea-sized-blobs, like Menzerna.) need very little pad priming, dense abrasive emulsions need more pad priming (Like Meg's, which needs the whole pad coated.), and everything else is something in between.

You're a mechanic. We both are. Polishing perfectly is about keeping oil clean... Change it out as frequently as possible, because wear elements are being introduced every second the polisher is running, and if built up enough becomes detrimental. The more aggressive the pad/polish, or the more sensitive the paint, the faster the media is loading up with paint swarf that will reduce finish quality/cutting efficiency... Have as many pads as you can, and change out pad/polish as often as you can, to keep the finish from falling down.

I hope this helps...

- Steampunk


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## BrianGT

"This is probably the nicest thing anyone's ever said to me... Thank you. 

There are people who took time to help me. I don't want their excellence to end."


I was being sincere.

Sometimes it just takes a stranger in another land to reflect back what you give out.

I am sure there are others on here that wanted to say the same thing.

Your explanation about gear oil made so much sense. Oil get's dirty and needs changing or it wears things down quicker or unpredictably. 

Also I realised from your description of Scholl's way of working why I like it so much. You can feel that explosive finish and know it's time to clean the pad and move on. Others I have tried I haven't really recognised when to stop so easily.

I love S40! Using that for the first time was when I really realised I was actually polishing. I use a Rupes yellow pad but will order the Scholl Honey pad based on you favouring it with that polish. S40 although fine can rectify a multitude of sins with the right pad. 

I'm also realising that a heavy cut polish doesn't always need a heavy pad or a light polish doesn't always need a light pad, there is room for going up and down the scale a bit. It's a learning curve I'm willing to learn.

Thanks, Brian


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## Steampunk

BrianGT said:


> I love S40! Using that for the first time was when I really realised I was actually polishing. I use a Rupes yellow pad but will order the Scholl Honey pad based on you favouring it with that polish. S40 although fine can rectify a multitude of sins with the right pad.
> 
> I'm also realising that a heavy cut polish doesn't always need a heavy pad or a light polish doesn't always need a light pad, there is room for going up and down the scale a bit. It's a learning curve I'm willing to learn.
> 
> Thanks, Brian


Thank you again for your kind words. 

Based upon the pads you mentioned, I surmise you're using a Rupes Bigfoot long-throw system?

I am a fan of the Scholl NEO Honey pads on various sorts of DA, but long-throw is kind of a unique animal, and I actually find the duo of S40 with the Rupes White for final jeweling to be just about perfect...

Not a lot of pad manufacturers have really 'gotten it' with how long-throw pads need to be designed, yet; Scholl included... For this reason, I find the best results to almost always be with Rupes own pads, with a few exceptions... Now, there are other polishes/compounds that can sometimes work as well or even better with Rupes' pads. Scholl's pads are still largely suited to short-standard throw DA's, forced rotation, and rotary. The new Ninja pads, and some retailers have asked for custom versions of pads cut in a more appropriate way for long-throw (Spautopia's version of the Navy Spider; CarPro US's version of the Purple Spider, etc... Even then, the Spautopia Navy Spiders don't have a big enough flare on the 3" version for stability.), but these are often in limited sizes that don't let you take advantage of their performance on the smaller Rupes machines like the LHR75 or ever on the iBrid.

The Rupes pads that combine best with Scholl I've found are as follows:


Rupes White + S40 
Rupes Yellow + S40, S20 Black, S17+.
Rupes Medium Yellow Wool + S20 Black. (I'd avoid the yellow on machines with less than 15mm of throw.)
Rupes Coarse Blue Wool + S17+, S3 XXL.

The other ones are a bit too open-pored for Scholl.

The Buff & Shine Uro-Tec Burgundy also works well with Scholl/Bigfoot and is available in all sizes, but is more limited... I thought it was great with S20 Black as a somewhat heavy 1-step.

The whole concept of polishing is ultimately much more flexible than I've explained, as you've noticed. Sometimes you can put compounds on finishing pads, or finishing polishes on heavy compounding pads, and create some awesome results... The reason I've narrowed it down is just trends I've noticed in both maximizing the smooth running, and also trying to create the widest possible cut/finish spectrum on even soft paints with each combo.

Hope this helps...

- Steampunk


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## BrianGT

> Hope this helps...


Trust me it does..........thank you.

It feels like I'm getting answers direct from the Master and I am the grasshopper  but I put you on notice I won't be a grasshopper for long! I know you wouldn't want me to be either, you have a way of empowering people.

Ok......here's where I am.

I have a generic 600w D/A with a short throw which I use most of the time. It's a bit noisy and shakes a bit but it gets the job done. 
I also have a Rupes LHR15 Bigfoot that is quiet and almost vibration free but the throw is too long for my car. I didn't know enough about it to buy wisely. Don't get me wrong, it is a superb machine but perhaps not the best for me.

I use Scholl simply because I kind of understood how they were working, when to add pressure, when to lift and when to stop. I could feel and see the carrier changing. I didn't seem to reach that connection with other compounds I had tried.

Scholl just clicked and I saw no reason to look further, at least not right now.

The yellow Rupes pads seem to work on both machines and I feel happy using either. The blue Scholl pad seems better on the short throw D/A, feels a bit more stable for want of a better description. I still didn't enjoy that pad with S3.

I want to get to the stage where I just know what to use once I have walked around a car. Or should I say know where to start and then how to adjust.

I did a neighbours VW Tiguan in black with green Rupes pads and S3 and it did the job but never felt right. I got a good finish but it was by default!

Question: I want a Scholl, or other brand, of compound that's in between S3 and S40. Naturally I lean to S20 Black and if so with what pad? Thanks.

I'm not sure of my next machine polisher. I want something to get up to the edges and in tight corners. Maybe a small rotary or even a nano machine.
I don't mind learning rotary and because it would need smaller pads it will be another learning curve!

I will re-read your Machine Polisher posts ( they should be stickied for prosperity) and let the words sink in.

This is the boot of my Mazda MX5. I used the Bigfoot with a yellow Rupes pad and S40. I used the same on the wings but changed to the smaller throw machine. 
I'm getting there and I have a lot to learn but I am willing to put the work in.

Thank you for your time and knowledge.


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## Steampunk

As long as you never stop learning, and practice as much as you can, there is no limit to what excellence a person can achieve in their craft. Pass it on as you do; you'll be able to help others along the way, no matter what stage of learning you're at... :thumb: 

You've come to basically the same observation I made while polishing LBC's regarding long-throw... 8mm free throw DA's like your preferred machine are actually very capable on smaller, curvier cars, but the vibration problem is a real health issue if you want to polish enough to begin mastering it at the level you want. That leaves forced-rotation DA's and rotary. Honestly, for cars like this, you'll probably end up finding you need to use a mixture of both. Rotary can get into spots that 5" BP Forced Rotation DA's can't touch, and DA gives you 1-stepping abilities that rotaries can't touch.

If you want to optimize an 8mm Free-Throw DA with Scholl, I'd definitely without hesitation look at the Scholl NEO Honey and White Spider Sandwich pads. This duo with S40, S20 Black, and S3 XXL or S2 Shock 2 Cut in extreme cases will cover most things. 

S20 Black's a good choice, though I curse S20 Blue becoming unobtanium through previous channels... On long throw, I'd pair it with Rupes Yellow and Buff & Shine Uro-Tec Burgundy. On 8mm free-rotation DA, it's a 1-step on the White Spider on all but the craziest of soft paints, and its cut can be adjusted from maybe the P5000 to P2500 equivalent level (It's easier to equate defects to something repeatable and standardized, like sanding scratches.) on this machine. On NEO Honey it'll cover something slightly above the cut of Keramik/S30+ on a Rupes Yellow pad, to maybe P6000 at an extreme push (Though probably only on softer paints, or with a forced rotation DA.). There's a small dead-zone between these combos with S20 Black, but it's minor. S20 Black on the CarPro Orange Polishing Pad might fill it... The CarPro Flash pads are also a rough equivalent of the White Spiders on 8mm free-throws, but the Scholls are a bit better. 

Great results on the MX-5! :buffer: 

Hope this helps...

- Steampunk


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## BrianGT

Once again that does help! :thumb:

Yes, we need to use references to know where we are and the sanding grit references do help a great deal.

I had to repair a stone chip right in the centre of the Mazda bonnet. A big one. 
I let the paint dry for about 2 weeks, simply because I was putting it off, because I knew I had to wet sand it. I started with 1000 for a very short time and then went through the grades up to 5000. I ended up with a circle around 50mm of very grey clear coat! I knew that S3 was easily capable of 3000 anyway so I felt in the comfort zone knowing it only had to tackle 5000 marks and it removed them with ease. Followed by S40 and a Yellow pad and I was breathing a sigh of relief again.

I will be purchasing the Neo Honey and White Spider pads and it will be in the knowledge that they will work with what I have. I am retired so funds are limited and it helps.

As far as machines go I will probably buy a smaller rotary to get up to door trim edges, headlights etc. When funds allow I will also buy a better 8mm D/A because that's the machine that works with my cars.

The Rupes Bigfoot 15 is a joy to use where I can so something of that quality.

Finally, I too pass everything on, in all walks of life, when someone is asking the question. 

I'll be back......

Thanks again, Brian


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## mac1459

At the age of 15 i started my joinery apprenticeship (1975) my journeyman was 64 years old , that last year of his service before retirement he had to put up with an very impatient 15 year old who was just starting out on his journey to be come a skilled tradesman.
Many years of skill and knowledge was past on to me, at times i found frustrating to slow ,the main thing he said was to do a job the way it suits you , many people have different ways of doing things , try them and adapt the one that suits you .
After he retired i had another 8 journeyman in the shop to learn from , each had their own way , never discount others ways you never know what will help on your road .
I personal learnt a lot not just skills and knowledge. I became a tradesman , over the years that followed i learnt new skills like boat building as well as modern techniques but i never forgot to pass on my knowledge to others 
28 years i serviced as a joiner and was still learning. 
Thank you steampunk it brought back memories of how i was taught and by whom.
Mac


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## BrianGT

mac1459 said:


> At the age of 15 i started my joinery apprenticeship (1975) my journeyman was 64 years old , that last year of his service before retirement he had to put up with an very impatient 15 year old who was just starting out on his journey to be come a skilled tradesman.
> Many years of skill and knowledge was past on to me, at times i found frustrating to slow ,the main thing he said was to do a job the way it suits you , many people have different ways of doing things , try them and adapt the one that suits you .
> After he retired i had another 8 journeyman in the shop to learn from , each had their own way , never discount others ways you never know what will help on your road .
> I personal learnt a lot not just skills and knowledge. I became a tradesman , over the years that followed i learnt new skills like boat building as well as modern techniques but i never forgot to pass on my knowledge to others
> 28 years i serviced as a joiner and was still learning.
> Thank you steampunk it brought back memories of how i was taught and by whom.
> Mac


Great post! :thumb:

I finished my apprenticeship in 1972 in the days when journeymen took a pride in passing on their skills in their own way. Watching and learning from different people who were doing the same job allowed me to find my own feet.

It's the same with machine polishing and I will find my way eventually.

I would like to think that if you and I were in the same workshop as Steampunk we would both be 15 again!


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## suds

BrianGT said:


> I would like to think that if you and I were in the same workshop as Steampunk we would both be 15 again!


Oh NO, Please! All that angst, getting paralytic on two pints of Watneys brown ale (being violently sick), pernicious raging pimples and that pack of condoms which perished before I got the chance to use them, and, politicians were shielded by the press.
Although, the music was way better in the 1970s (and you could understand the lyrics) fashions were colourful, prospects were improving and Marks and Spencer started selling exotic ready meals (yes people really were eating 'foreign muck').

Sorry back on topic - hear hear


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## BrianGT

:lol:
Those were the days lad!

Back on topic :buffer::buffer::buffer:


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## Steampunk

suds said:


> Oh NO, Please! All that angst, getting paralytic on two pints of Watneys brown ale (being violently sick), pernicious raging pimples and that pack of condoms which perished before I got the chance to use them, and, politicians were shielded by the press.
> Although, the music was way better in the 1970s (and you could understand the lyrics) fashions were colourful, prospects were improving and Marks and Spencer started selling exotic ready meals (yes people really were eating 'foreign muck').
> 
> Sorry back on topic - hear hear


:lol: :lol: :lol:

Classic Suds...

- Steampunk


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