# Filling stone chips



## FakeThinkpad (Apr 2, 2012)

I have a few stone chips i intend on trying to fill and wetsand. so i got three bottles from a paint supplier

1 x water based base coat/color
1 x cellilosa based clearcoat
1 x hardener

according to him they couldent be mixed beforehand but needed to be applied in layers. i have read several guides on here that recommends mixing the base and clear 50/50 (dont know where the hardener goes in this mix?)

What do you recommend? applying layers might be hard in my case due to the size of the chips and if i do mix them, do i use the hardener and what amounts, 1 part hardener to 2 parts clear?


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## DimitriUK (Jan 18, 2017)

Why do you need to use the hardener it does not make any sense?
Is it a hardener or a body filler?

In my case I fill the stone chip with thin and I mean really thin layers of base coat up to the middle then with thin and I mean really thin layers of the 50%-50% mix of base plus clear.


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## FakeThinkpad (Apr 2, 2012)

Its definately a hardener for the clearcoat, he said to mix them 1/3 for the clear to be able to harden - but i agree that the clear mixed with the base should "harden" by itself, even if it mighttake longer.


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## DimitriUK (Jan 18, 2017)

sorry I do not know if you can mix hardener with clear and base I have never used hardener in paint before.


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

If you've got hardener for the clear coat I doubt very much that it's waterbased, it sounds like it's a 2K product (or trying to be) 
If I'm correct the waterbased paint won't mix in.
It will go a bit like when oil and water are successfully mixed, like when a head gasket goes, and the result is a milky sludge .
I predict if you try and mix the two together the clear coat will turn milky and never harden.


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## FakeThinkpad (Apr 2, 2012)

Thanks squiggs, the clear is not water based, only the base. So it sounds like I have no option but to try and layer them. What is the dry time of a base paint before I apply a clear with hardener?

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## FakeThinkpad (Apr 2, 2012)

Or I suppose I could get a 1k waterbased clearcoat that would mix with the base - sorry for my noob questions on paint here, completely out of my circle of knowledge even if it's interesting

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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

There isn't really any such thing as WB clear.
As far as I know most chip kits aren't dissimilar to nail varnish - one's coloured, the others clear - and you can mix them.
If you've got a two part clear it's probably nearer to 'proper' bodyshop clear and will hopefully dry harder than a 'normal' kit once it's fully cured.
As far as drying the WB colour - grab a hairdryer from your girlfriend/wife/mistress, apply the paint and gently waft warm air across (not directly onto) the paint for 5 mins. You're trying to gently evaporate the moisture from the paint rather than drive it out.
Let it cool, repeat as required. 
WB paint is as thin as .... water .... don't try to fill the chip with paint. Use the paint to colour the chip and use the lacquer to fill it. 
Don't mix all your clear coat in one go (whatever you don't use the first time round will set!). Apply it and leave it for at least 24hrs to harden before taking your next step .... which will probably be a light wet sand before applying another coat.
Repeat as required and polish.


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## Dave sewel (Dec 28, 2016)

Hi there best way is to give the local area around the chips a very light rub with 2000 wet n dry paper then with the base coat be it water base or solvent put a bit at a time we're you need it let if cure between coats from experience x2 layers of base will do the job to get colour were you need it one thing to bare in mind some water base colours will look wrong until they have dried so don't panic if it doesn't look right when wet now I don't really use 1k clears but we did use them many years ago we use 2k now hence the need for the hardner/activator and a thinner/reducer if spraying anyway back to the stone chips once your happy the base is dry dab ur clear coat into the chip again letting it tac off between dabs on the last one when your happy you have got your level right let a little go around the chip on to the area you keyed before you started. Once all I cured keep in mind if a 1k clear was used it will take longer to cure. Now a handy hint here get a cork out of a wine bottle and some glue cut a piece of the 2000 and 3000 wet n dry paper to the size of the cork stick on the paper to the cork and you have a ideal block for very local flating ideal for stone chips now flat until level finish with the 3000s and simply polish out the finer paper you finish with will mean less polishing and less risk of doing any damage we use this technique day in day out on end of lease cars etc hope this is of some help to getting your cars looking good again 


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## Danl94 (Mar 10, 2016)

I use hardener in water base coat when touching it as it will simply wash off unless you do. Not applying clear over the the top that is.


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