# best way to apply autoglym super resin polish



## davidrogers190

:newbie: :newbie: :newbie: :newbie: Im going to use srp on a black mercedes cls, what is the best way to apply it and what with to get the best results, also how long should I leave it on for before buffing it off? :newbie:


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## ahaydock

I apply in small sections using a Megs foam pad and buff with a MF cloth. I do a panel then buff off. Dont use too much as it can be a bit dusty, I also spritz the MF cloth with a bit of QD :thumb:


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## matt_hilluk

i put mine on with a MF applicator pad and wiped it off with a MF cloth, looks amazing, definetly the best polish i have used so far.


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## Mav2006

Yep, I use an applicator pad and MF, works well


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## alanjo99

AG Ultra Deep Shine is another alternative once you have used your SRP -works well on Black


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## ahaydock

I use to use a MF Applicator Pad but found the Megs Foam to be better - just my opinion though.


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## Deanoecosse

AG do a hardish sponge like pad which is good as it allows you to work the polish if you want a little more cut from it. Best results I've found are by applying to the entire car (was shown that by the technical trainers at the AG factory), then buff off easily using a MF towel and you will have virtually no dust. A lot of people panic about leaving SRP on the car for too long before buffing off, but it can be left on for a couple of hours without worrying about removing it.


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## Neil_M

I currently use the Meguiars Foam Pads. Im going to try the cheaper foam pads from Cleanyourcar.co.uk next time though.

They are a great cheap solution that work well!


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## hawkpie

So is it best to apply in circles or straight lines?

And do you need to apply much pressure?

ta


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## Neil_M

As per the bottle really, combination of both AFAIK.

But I do apply moderate pressure to work the Polish in.

Im no expert though!

You cant really go wrong with it though!


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## hawkpie

Aye cheers.

Have used it in the past with those instructions with good results, but just wondered if anyone did it slightly different.


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## Mark raw

I apply it in lines and try and remove it in lines. Odd times it gets circled tho, however it not make much diff and always looks so good after. I apply extra gloss protection after polish leave for couple hours then gently wipe off, not sure if it makes that much major difference bit it recomended by autoglym. beads very well andseems to last long time


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## 1000lakes

Mark raw said:


> , not sure if it makes that much major difference bit it recomended by autoglym.


Not for all colours no. SRP itself doesn't protect very long, so it really is worth applying egp or something else on top.
Whatever used for applying, damp applicator helps to keep wasted product minimal.


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## Sim

I wanted to know the same! Just bought some CYC Foam Pads to apply SRP with .


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## Neil_M

Sim said:


> I wanted to know the same! Just bought some CYC Foam Pads to apply SRP with .


Good good, that partnered with a good Microfibre buffing towel will keep you in good stead!


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## hawkpie

Just when we are on the subject of SRP, I also have Megs Glaze and AG EGP.

Can both be used, or is it a case of one of the other?

And then how long do you have to wait before you can put a wax on top?

Thanks :thumb:


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## Kev_mk3

ahaydock said:


> I apply in small sections using a Megs foam pad and buff with a MF cloth. I do a panel then buff off. Dont use too much as it can be a bit dusty, I also spritz the MF cloth with a bit of QD :thumb:


didnt know that - ill use that when i do mine


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## Mr Concours

hawkpie said:


> Just when we are on the subject of SRP, I also have Megs Glaze and AG EGP.
> 
> Can both be used, or is it a case of one of the other?
> 
> And then how long do you have to wait before you can put a wax on top?
> 
> Thanks :thumb:


If you want to use the EGP _and_ Megs glaze you will have to put on SRP _then_ EGP _then_ the glaze as the EGP won't bond to a glaze,that goes for ANY sealant won't sit on top of a glaze.

I would apply and remove SRP in straight lines with an applicator to apply and a terry type towel for removal,(I know,I know MF is the way to go but I just find with SRP the old fasioned terry has more 'bite', I use white face flannels) mist the pad with a QD as already suggested or if you dont have any good old tap water will do,DO spread SRP thinly as it will dust like mad and be a PITA to remove if you use to much!I would do two layers of SRP.

I would treat myself to a good QD (megs new ultimate QD seems a good bet) as the paintworks black incase you get some dried polish residue issues.


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## VIPER

hawkpie said:


> So is it best to apply in circles or straight lines?
> 
> And do you need to apply much pressure?
> 
> ta


Depends on what you're doing with it. If you're just laying down a layer to act as a paint cleanser and a base for a topping wax or sealant, then you don't need to use much pressure at all, and for this straight lines and a foam applicator are fine.
To hide and fill minor swirls I find the best method is to apply with a microfibre pad (or a short pile MF cloth folded until it bocomes a 'pad'), then apply a small amount in overlapping circles with medium pressure (contrary to what many think applying in a circular motion _won't_ put more swirls in - if it does you're doing it wrong or the applicators/surface is contaminated). 
Keep working the polish into the paint and as you do gradually keep reducing the pressure all the time. The abrasives in SRP will start to break down (they are very mild anyway) as you ease off the pressure and work it. You will now see that the SRP has almost gone - there will be just a thin 'waxy' film on the paint that almost looks like wax does when it's spread on paintwork. By this point the pressure you're using should have reduced down to almost nothing and you can either buff off the very slight remaining residue straight away or leave it and continue around the whole car. It might take 2 or more passes to fill/remove swirls depending on the car. I've used this method for a while and the paint on my 2 cars are flat black and flat red. Tested with powerful LED lamps there should be no or virtually no swirls at all. Then you can top off with your wax or sealant (or if both then it should be sealant first then wax).


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## Hair Bear

Mr Concours said:


> EGP won't bond to a glaze,that goes for ANY sealant won't sit on top of a glaze


Really, I thought a basic rule of thumb was GSW - Glaze, Seal and/or Wax?


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## hawkpie

Thanks for answering those questions chaps.

How long do I have to wait between SRP applications if I wanted to do it twice?

Also anyone got any confirmation on the Glaze - Sealant - Wax order?

Ta


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## Neil_M

I dont believe you have to leave any time between coats, unless your arms need a rest of course .

My combination is going to be SRP, EGP and then a Wax. Of course its personal opinion .


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## hawkpie

Neil_M said:


> I dont believe you have to leave any time between coats, unless your arms need a rest of course .
> 
> My combination is going to be SRP, EGP and then a Wax. Of course its personal opinion .


Cheers Neil, thats what I normally do. I just got my hands on some Megs Glaze and wondered if that might help make the car look shinier.


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## Neil_M

Not totally sure mate.. Im sure the experts can help!


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## jimjon

ahaydock said:


> I use to use a MF Applicator Pad but found the Megs Foam to be better - just my opinion though.


same here, recentely changed to the foam pad for it


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## ahaydock

Which Megs Glaze - I aaume you mean #7? If your car is darker in colour then yes that will help add a wetness to the looks. If using SRP and EGP and it after the EGP but before the wax. Megs #7 is a pure glaze and wont last 2 seconds without being sealed in.

You should be alright just moving onto your next layer of SRP.


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## Guest

Hair Bear said:


> Really, I thought a basic rule of thumb was GSW - Glaze, Seal and/or Wax?


Personally, I think the rule of thumb really should be Seal, Glaze, Wax.

It does depend on the sealant and glaze.

Generally you only apply a sealant to totally clean paintwork to ensure it bonds well and you get the best durability out of it. Place a layer of something between the paintwork and sealant and you are going to compromise durability. How far it is compromised depends on the sealant. AG's EGP is very fussy but some are not.

To confuse the issue, some glazes actually leave a layer of acrylic sealant behind making them an ideal base for another sealant. You could view SRP as an all-in-one cleaner/glaze/sealant product. It certainly contains fillers to hide minor defects and add gloss which is what a glaze does. But because it leaves a layer of acrylic sealant behind it does make a good base for fussy sealants like EGP. The CG's EZ-Glaze and AIO products are similar in this respect too.


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## hawkpie

ahaydock said:


> Which Megs Glaze - I aaume you mean #7? If your car is darker in colour then yes that will help add a wetness to the looks. If using SRP and EGP and it after the EGP but before the wax. Megs #7 is a pure glaze and wont last 2 seconds without being sealed in.
> 
> You should be alright just moving onto your next layer of SRP.


Cool, cheers and yes I was referring to #7.

Yeah I have a black car, so was just after a bit more wetness.

So are we saying SRP x2, then EGP, then Glaze #7, then Wax?

Ta


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