# Air brush spot repair



## billvega

Hello, 1st post!

I had a really nasty stone chip on my nearly new Jaguar XE and thought I'd have a shot at repairing myself. Totaly new to wet sanding and ended up ruining the finish and realising the chip was too big to touch up.

Before:


I sanded the chip, applied a primer, applied layers of touchup then 2 clear layers. Wet sanded down but used incorrect technique and caused a halo around it, i think i went through the surrounding clear coat.

After:



Bodyshops all saying whole bonnet respray (£300) except one who said he can do that section and blend to the line in the bonnet (£200). It is such a small area and right in the corner. I really don't want to lose the original Jaguar finish.

I feel I have nothing to lose by sanding the repair again but this time using an air brush.

I am going to do the following.

1500 wet sand
Clean area with rubbing alcohol and mask
Mix the Jaguar touch up paint 1:1 with 2k thinners that i got from ebay
Apply a few light coats through air brush.

For the clear coat touchup that came with the jaguar paint, am i ok thinning this down also to 1:1 ratio for use in the airbrush?

After clear applied use the fade out clear coat thinner aerosol i have to avoid any lines. wait to fully dry over night. Then 3000grit wet sand, compound and polish.

What do you guys think of this plan?

I know it wont be invisible but the motorway is constantly throwing stones at her and Id rather wait until another bad one happens before getting a pro job done. I'm hoping the airbrush and careful sanding will yield better results this time around!


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## Sh1ner

You have had a disaster once and likely, will have a disaster again.
There was a chance of a reasonable localised repair first time round but it has been made much more difficult if not impossible.
For the time it will take, I would, live with it or let a professional do it if it bothers you that much.


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## steveo3002

youre not far off what you plan to do , id get some proper clearcoat and use that and let it sit a couple of weeks before trying to polish

trouble is trying to do small repairs the colour coat will likley stand out as a light patch/ring 

if it was a bumper corner you would most likley get a reasonble repair but bonnets are in your face


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## Sicskate

As above, get a professional to sort it out as you'll never get a flat finish now. 

Sent from my FRD-L09 using Tapatalk


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## dax

Earlier this year i had a similar size chip on a right rear door on our silver Honda, but thought it was too big to touch in myself and called two bodyshops. The first wanted to respray the whole right side of the car — cost €1,200-€1,500. The second i called said a spot repair with blend in would work — cost €100. I went for the spot repair and can honestly say it was done just perfect! I looked from every angle in every light and i can't see where it's repaired.


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## billvega

Sh1ner said:


> You have had a disaster once and likely, will have a disaster again..


:lol: Probably. But like I said, what have I got to lose?. If it goes wrong ill get the job done properly. Ive got everything I need to go ahead for a 2nd bash. I might just sort it enough to please my eye for now.


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## billvega

steveo3002 said:


> id get some proper clearcoat and use that


This is what I'm wondering. Can I not just thin down the clear I got in the touch up kit from Jaguar and use in my air brush? Would a lacquer from an aerosol be a better bet?


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## steveo3002

i think you would be better with something decent quality

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-pol-1k...hash=item1e6365d0c9:m:m-N_tFidmLqqzB95Ma6xMYA

even better..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAPCI-2K...173925?hash=item2cc4044025:g:NigAAOSw-vlVpTAt

or rattle can

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2K-aeros...981458?hash=item3a870e8f12:g:6C8AAOxy4t1SfiGX

the 2k stuff is much more durable against weather etc , a close match to what factorys use vs cheaper stuff is just rubbish that will turn yellow and dull in no time

maybe spend some time on youtube looking at smart repairs , clearcoat blending and so on before diving in


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## billvega

steveo3002 said:


> maybe spend some time on youtube looking at smart repairs , clearcoat blending and so on before diving in


I have done, for hours and hours!

Thanks for the links.


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## steelghost

I see no harm in attempting to repair it yourself, if you're prepared to get it re-done by a pro and accept you may well make it worse rather than better....


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## billvega

Is the spraymax clear worth twice the price of this 2k aerosol? This one also has a fan spray

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/331873693644


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## squiggs

billvega said:


> :lol: Probably. But like I said, what have I got to lose?. If it goes wrong ill get the job done properly. Ive got everything I need to go ahead for a 2nd bash. I might just sort it enough to please my eye for now.


If it goes wrong (and I'm 100% sure you won't be pleased with your results) you'll then have the added costs of your attempt having to be removed before a successful repair can be started.

The advice the bodyshops have given you is correct - in as much as you can't spot/smart/part repair a patch on a bonnet without it showing.

Most (if not all) professional Smart repairers with all their skills and experience will turn down a job on a bonnet.
The problem isn't the paint .... it's the transition from new to old lacquer that's the problem.

If only a small area is re-lacquered then I can 100% guarantee that walking around the car you'll see the edges of newly lacquered area, and it will appear that there's a patch on the bonnet. 
There's no way of doing it without it showing - even professionally - hence the bodyshops advice of re-lacquering the whole bonnet or using a body line (swage) to lose the transition.

Honestly ..... you should leave it alone, bite the bullet and get it done properly - anything else will leave it looking worse than it does now (and cost you more to get it corrected)


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## steveo3002

billvega said:


> Is the spraymax clear worth twice the price of this 2k aerosol? This one also has a fan spray
> 
> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/331873693644


says pre catalized so not proper 2k imo , no doubt still better than trying to use some from the touch in kit


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## Barbel330

squiggs said:


> If it goes wrong (and I'm 100% sure you won't be pleased with your results) you'll then have the added costs of your attempt having to be removed before a successful repair can be started.
> 
> The advice the bodyshops have given you is correct - in as much as you can't spot/smart/part repair a patch on a bonnet without it showing.
> 
> Most (if not all) professional Smart repairers with all their skills and experience will turn down a job on a bonnet.
> The problem isn't the paint .... it's the transition from new to old lacquer that's the problem.
> 
> If only a small area is re-lacquered then I can 100% guarantee that walking around the car you'll see the edges of newly lacquered area, and it will appear that there's a patch on the bonnet.
> There's no way of doing it without it showing - even professionally - hence the bodyshops advice of re-lacquering the whole bonnet or using a body line (swage) to lose the transition.
> 
> Honestly ..... you should leave it alone, bite the bullet and get it done properly - anything else will leave it looking worse than it does now (and cost you more to get it corrected)


Precisely this^^^^

Unfortunately you will not make that look anywhere near acceptable, that's guaranteed.

I'm a smart repairer of 18 years, 12 years as a painter in a bodyshop before that and I can tell you the only way that's going to look as it should is to repaint the entire bonnet, no short cuts, no amount of touching in and polishing will help. I would not take that job on as a smart repair even with all the correct tools, experience and equipment so you won't be able to do it with Mickey Mouse products outside your house I'm afraid. Your best bet would have been to touch the original chip in to take the eye off it and book it in for respray at your leisure. If you do decide to attempt another repair, you are literally wasting your own time and effort I'm afraid.


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## billvega

All comments seen and noted. However, I still think I can get it looking much better than it currently does. The pic looks worse than it is, it is a small spot right in the corner and is the only reason i'm attempting it.

To sand that spot out first of all what grit would you say I should use? 600?

And for the surrounding area for clear to blend in to old clear will 1500 be ok?


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## steveo3002

800 the repair

prep the area with a grey scotch pad and flatting paste idealy , so the clear goes onto scotched paint and the blend on where you used paste and a cloth , otherwise you cut the blend off trying to polish up the flatted paint if you get me

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FARECLA-...603538&hash=item43b802927c:g:t38AAMXQ83xSFObp


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## steveo3002

post a pic of the whole bonnet , you really would be better going up to a swage line if there is one


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## billvega

steveo3002 said:


> 800 the repair
> 
> prep the area with a grey scotch pad and flatting paste idealy , so the clear goes onto scotched paint and the blend on where you used paste and a cloth , otherwise you cut the blend off trying to polish up the flatted paint if you get me
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FARECLA-...603538&hash=item43b802927c:g:t38AAMXQ83xSFObp


800 the bad spot and grey scotch the surrounding area?

Not sure I follow the rest of what you said. Btw, what grit is grey scotch and how does it differ from wet sanding?


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## steveo3002

yeah then matt paste the area beyond that 

scotch pads key without roaring lots of paint off , thats just how ive done it , i think if you 1500 the area and blend onto it you will have trouble polishing it back without cutting the new blend edge off


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## billvega

Ok. Is this the correct scotchbrite, genuine 3m

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/322553163688


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## steveo3002

look slightly red in that pic

these will do it
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Scuff-...256990&hash=item1ec7fc5b72:g:CK4AAOSw2gxYqgxP


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## billvega

steveo3002 said:


> look slightly red in that pic
> 
> these will do it
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Scuff-...256990&hash=item1ec7fc5b72:g:CK4AAOSw2gxYqgxP


I edited the link to genuine 3m ones. I still have yrouble thinking that the scuffs from these pads wont be hidden by the clear. The paint is metallic, you sure these will be ok? Just a light scuffing yeah?

I got that 2k stuff you linked to for the clear btw and a blending spray


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## steveo3002

yes 100% clear will cover grey scotchpad marks , i worked for 20 years in a bodyshop

you need to think about how you will do it , each coat needs to creep out a bit further , same with the clear coat so make sure you prep a big enough area so youre not clearing over shiney paint


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## billvega

steveo3002 said:


> yes 100% clear will cover grey scotchpad marks , i worked for 20 years in a bodyshop
> 
> you need to think about how you will do it , each coat needs to creep out a bit further , same with the clear coat so make sure you prep a big enough area so youre not clearing over shiney paint


Yes, I got that bit nailed. 1 last point. If im not sanding back down to metal do I still need to spray a primer before the colour?

Thanks for the tips


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## Kerr

I love threads like these. 

Can I have your expert advice please? 

DON'T DO IT. 

Ok, I'm going to do it anyway. :lol:


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## steveo3002

no need to prime it ....light coats of base coat , if you can see an edge sand that with 1500 lightly and re base it


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## SamD

Watch this video, you may not have the same tools but the process is the same.


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## billvega

Yes, seen that one. I find this one better


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## billvega

steveo3002 said:


> post a pic of the whole bonnet , you really would be better going up to a swage line if there is one


Here you go, as you can see the location of the spot is small and right in the corner above the light. There is no way I'm having the original Jaguar finish re done on the whole bonnet for that. As you can also see there is a line i can blend to then up and out going towards the windscreen. Is that the path you would take with the clear? Do I even need to go as far as the line?


up load pictures


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## Barbel330

I admire your determination but you are asking for trouble and a whole lot of wasted time and money. If this was a 10 year old Nissan micra I'd say crack on with your experiment.....but it's not is it? And you've already turned a small stone chip into a much more unsightly mess. Your next stage is to make it a whole lot worse.


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## steveo3002

if i had to tackle it yes i think i would mask up to that line 

theres a technique to folding the tape back on itself partialy so that you dont get a tape line

its 50/50 though...clear up to the line ought to be a more durable repair , but then youve destroyed more of the cars original finish and if you louse it up then a bigger mess than trying to keep it local


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## JohnD63

OK, i caught this post late. Firstly there's no way you can to a spot repair using an airbrush on metalic. I tried this on a Ferrari, thinking i was a smart **** and failed miserably. Luckily the car was on a production line so wasn't too serious a problem. Also you have to take into consideration the factory application process, i.e. Spray distance from the surface, passing speed, spraygun pressure and nozzle size. The reason being is that the atomisation from an airbrush is different to that with a spraygun, that and the considerations i just mentioned make it almost impossible to repair. If you were doing it on an opaque base then it wouldnt be a problem. However a good painter can blend/fade it in, without redoing the whole panel, but they would have to be very skilled.


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## efunc

I would be interested in an update on this. Your strategy to improve it sounded pretty good and is more or less what I would do. What was the eventual outcome? Did you leave it or go through with the smart repair?


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