# Tool for rust removal



## enc

What is the best drill attachment type tool for removing as much rust as possible from metal prior to hydrate 80 application. I'm thinking a rotating metal brush type thing ?


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## Andyblue

Depends on how much / where / how deep rust is, but yes, the drill attachment type wire brushes are certainly a good starting point, or a flap wheel on angle grinder etc


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## Fentum

As someone who has recently spent hours removing rust with a wire wheel, I know it should be obvious but I’ll say it anyway: please make sure you wear eye protection as the little metal wires can detach at very high speed and fly into your face. 

Peter


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## enc

Andyblue said:


> Depends on how much / where / how deep rust is, but yes, the drill attachment type wire brushes are certainly a good starting point, or a flap wheel on angle grinder etc


Lower door edge. Quite deep rust !
So you recommend a flap wheel ? Can't say I've used one before. I'll look into it. 
Cheers


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## enc

Fentum said:


> As someone who has recently spent hours removing rust with a wire wheel, I know it should be obvious but I'll say it anyway: please make sure you wear eye protection as the little metal wires can detach at very high speed and fly into your face.
> 
> Peter


God call with eye protection !


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## enc

How about a twisted knott brush on a grinder. 
I'm after a fast and effective solotion prior to fluid rust treatment.


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## Tintin

The cheapest option is a wire brush on a drill - Toolstation are usually pretty cheap. The best thing I have found though is a Black and Decker power file- they cost £30 - 40 and remove rust and paint really quickly. Great for dressing down welds too.

If you have rust that is in seams or pitted rust, Bilt Hamber Deox gel is great for getting rid of it.


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## Fentum

enc said:


> How about a twisted knott brush on a grinder.
> I'm after a fast and effective solotion prior to fluid rust treatment.


FWIW, I tend to try "all of the above" until I find the best approach. For example, the twisted knot brush can really score some metal and if you are in the business of a flattish surface after treatment and etching, you might find yourself spending hours dealing with the consequences of rapid surface removal.

Each load of rusty metal seems to have different properties/ease of dealing. And the brushes/flaps last quite a long time, so they are worth the investment.

The least damaging approach I have found, generally, is one of those relatively new plastic based strippers from the USA. I don't have one here so can't recall the brand (Poly-Strip?) but they come in different grits and can be used on an angle-grinder.

They really do not make an impact of any materiality on any metal I have used them on and can strip rust and paint quickly.

Peter


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## enc

Tintin said:


> The cheapest option is a wire brush on a drill - Toolstation are usually pretty cheap. The best thing I have found though is a Black and Decker power file- they cost £30 - 40 and remove rust and paint really quickly. Great for dressing down welds too.
> 
> If you have rust that is in seams or pitted rust, Bilt Hamber Deox gel is great for getting rid of it.


Cheers, yes I have detox gel but it needs to be covered whilst it does its thing. because of where the rusted area is located it might be tricky keeping it covered with the gel in place . ..maybe I could tape plastic over it ? 
Main concern st the moment is getting rid of the loose rust as much as possible. I've used wire brush attachments in drill in the past but found them a bit hit and miss. 
I guess I'm looking for something a bit more "industrial" Media blasting would be ideal but out of the question right now.


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## enc

Fentum said:


> Fthe twisted knot brush can really score some metal and if you are in the business of a flattish surface after treatment and etching, you might find yourself spending hours dealing with the consequences of rapid surface removal.
> 
> Peter


Noted ! Definitely worthy of consideration.


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## Sh1ner

Not particularly cheap but
http://www.mbxit.com/products/bristle-blaster-c-6.html
There are pneumatic, 240v and 110v automotive and heavy duty.
Removes rust, scale, seam sealer etc better than any wire brush in a drill as long as there is sufficient access.
There are also similar tools that are a little cheaper. A search on ebay might find them.
I have never found wire brushes in drills to be very good at corrosion removal. The brush just conforms to the rotation of the drill and the twist follows rather than leads. Tends to polish the corrosion rather than remove.
Flap wheels tend to remove too much good material but used very gently can be ok for removing paint.


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## enc

Sh1ner said:


> Not particularly cheap but
> http://www.mbxit.com/products/bristle-blaster-c-6.html
> There are pneumatic, 240v and 110v automotive and heavy duty.
> Removes rust, scale, seam sealer etc better than any wire brush in a drill as long as there is sufficient access.
> There are also similar tools that are a little cheaper. A search on ebay might find them.
> I have never found wire brushes in drills to be very good at corrosion removal. The brush just conforms to the rotation of the drill and the twist follows rather than leads. Tends to polish the corrosion rather than remove.
> Flap wheels tend to remove too much good material but used very gently can be ok for removing paint.


Thanks for the heads up but cost is a bit prohibitive.


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## VeiRoN

This is what I use mainly and found are effective for the job,drill mounted:

Filament wheel (coarse):










This is more for light rust in paint or galvanised metal,not really suitable for heavy rust with bits flaking off.

Twisted knot wheel:








.

Very good for quick removal of underseal or flaky rust.

Other than this I always keep handy some Deox gel,60 grit sandpaper and a Dremel 8200 with drum sander for small areas.


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## Itstony

Fentum said:


> As someone who has recently spent hours removing rust with a wire wheel, I know it should be obvious but I'll say it anyway: please make sure you wear eye protection as the little metal wires can detach at very high speed and fly into your face.
> 
> Peter


Its amazing the amount of times we still see people everyday without PPE when using tools and machinery. Eye protection is most abused. :wall:


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## Tintin

With the Deox gel, the usual method is to tape cling film over it. It often needs two or three applications though. I have used it successfully lots of times, then used the Hydrate 80 over the bits I couldn't reach. I do rate Hydrate 80, but rust removal is always better than rust encapsulation.


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## josje

remove loose rust with brush (hard brush or steelbrush) and spray with fluid film
clean after a few weeks and repeat search for fluid film on youtube...
(Fluid Film Rust and Corrosion Protection Aerosol)


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## enc

Called into the body shop and booked in for paint on the 21st May.. not ideal i'd have liked sooner but hey ho. ive arranged that i strip the lower edge to bare metal and do the rust treatment they'll do the paint and re finishing. 

With fine weather forecast ive made a start on preparation. theres good news and bad, first the good... the door is not rusting from the inside out as id assumed :thumb: the bad, with the 'blade' trim removed, theres more rust than id initially assessed 

Ever since i bought the car a few years ago theres been a couple of rust scabs on the doors lower edge just above the trim these have always been on the TO DO list. if id have sorted them back then id have been dealing with a much smaller issue.  ... 

i guess some cars those rust scabs would have turned to holes by now and its a testament to the galvanized panels they aren't much worse...that said, they are pretty bad and its a design fault they're there in the first place.
The blade trim traps wtaer/muck thrown off the road and without a means to drain the silt build up inside is constantly damp which starts the rusting process. i may introduce some drain holes to prevent the build up ...

Armed with a wire brush drill attachment i set to work ... this really wasn't making much of an impact so i resort to chipping away at the rust with a small screw driver and rubber mallet. time consuming but effective. then i pulled out the Dremel with small cutting discs .. these worked a treat :argie: but wear rapidly and again, progress is slow. im by no means finished with the power tools but time was rapidly running out. ive coated the areas done so far with Deox gel .. and ill assess in the morning. 

Took loads of pics but no longer have a host


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## VeiRoN

Tried imgbb already?


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## JB052

I have never found wire brushes in drills to be very good at corrosion removal. The brush just conforms to the rotation of the drill and the twist follows rather than leads. Tends to polish the corrosion rather than remove.
Flap wheels tend to remove too much good material but used very gently can be ok for removing paint.[/QUOTE said:


> My thoughts as well.


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## VeiRoN

Just been using the wrong brushes.


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## dhali

Sh1ner said:


> Not particularly cheap but
> http://www.mbxit.com/products/bristle-blaster-c-6.html
> There are pneumatic, 240v and 110v automotive and heavy duty.
> Removes rust, scale, seam sealer etc better than any wire brush in a drill as long as there is sufficient access.
> There are also similar tools that are a little cheaper. A search on ebay might find them.
> I have never found wire brushes in drills to be very good at corrosion removal. The brush just conforms to the rotation of the drill and the twist follows rather than leads. Tends to polish the corrosion rather than remove.
> Flap wheels tend to remove too much good material but used very gently can be ok for removing paint.


What's the price for that ? Can't seem to find it anywhere on the site .


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## Sh1ner

dhali said:


> What's the price for that ? Can't seem to find it anywhere on the site .


If you are lucky or prepared to haggle, about £300/400. There are different widths of belt and the motors vary in power output. Industrial is possibly a little strong for automotive use but with care.........
Belts need to be factored in as well.
I have seem similar alternatives for a little over £200. I have not tried one but they may be as good and they tend to come with more belts and stuff.
I have just had a look but could not see any of the cheaper tools but ebay/Amazon is usually a reasonable starting point.


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