# The Facts: Opti-Seal over wax...



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

I had read this elsewhere, but finally saw confirmation by Dr G, the creator and CEO of Optimum.

The question was actually about Caledonia's comment of OS being a 'hybrid' sealant, but the info given relates specifically to how OS works when applied over a wax.

The answer:

_"Thank you for bringing this question to the forum. I can not speak about other brands and I limit my reply to Optimum line and specifically Opti-Seal. I am not sure where water is entering into this discussion since there is no water in Opti-Seal.

Opti-Seal is a highly concentrated formula containing sealant polymers dissolved in a solvent. Once it is applied to any surface, it will bond to it and cross-links fully within 12 hours. The sealant polymers react with moisture which is why you can not have any water in this product.

If there is any wax on the surface, Opti-Seal will dissolve it and the polymers will go to the surface and the wax will migrate to the top. This is due to the difference in the surface tension of wax and sealant. I hope this helps answer your question."_ My underlining for emphasis.

It seems that while OS _will_ apply over a wax, the hope that it actually _sealed in_ the wax underneath is sadly incorrect.

Edit:

My conclusion therefore is that it means that OS can be used as a top-up product, but dont expect it to be sealing in the wax underneath, and think of it as replacing that wax on the surface of the paint. Alternatively use it as a stand alone LSP as it was designed...


----------



## Gleammachine (Sep 8, 2007)

Thanks for sharing Damon, nice one.:thumb:


----------



## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

====> SPANNER

This would them imply that putting Optiseal over a wax coating is futile or a waste of time (and wax)?

If you washed and waxed your car then applied Optiseal four hours later the wax will be displaced

(I use the term wax to describe a non polymer based carnauba type product)


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

that is the BIG question IMHO Jon.

Does the 'displaced' wax simply then remain on the surface of the OS afterwards eg now the outer layer? Or does the dissolving of the wax mean that it is then removed and wont be there at all, or would simply be removed very quickly with any washing/rain etc?

I must confess that when I have used OS over a wax in the past, the beading I see afterwards looks more like the OS beading than that of the previous product.

I would suggest that it means that OS can be used as a top-up product, but dont expect it to be sealing in the wax underneath, and think of it as replacing that wax. Alternatively use it as a stand alone LSP as it was designed...


----------



## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

Bigpikle said:


> I would suggest that it means that OS can be used as a top-up product, but dont expect it to be sealing in the wax underneath, and think of it as replacing that wax. Alternatively use it as a stand alone LSP as it was designed...


Yep that's what i was thinking from the post

Effectivley is a good spray sealant, no bad thing really but not ideal for sealing in a wax as i originally understood.


----------



## Finerdetails (Apr 30, 2006)

you may as well glue and tar remover the car then add some sealant. If the opti seal is dissolving the wax, then to my eye, with so little wax actually on any car anyway, by disolving what there is you may as well just remove.

Think I will stick with my waxes, and layering them for now.

Thanks for the info Damon


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

yep - OS was ALWAYS positioned as a 'wipe on walk away' sealant, and nothing more or less. It has become popular as like Z-CS and UPGP, it can be applied over a wax. This has lead to many people _assuming_ it sealed in the wax which would be a great bonus if you wanted to prolong the life of the less durable waxes. I have used it like this many times and layered it with all sorts of things over and under it, and it does mean its very convenient as you can add a pretty durable sealant without a full paint cleanse first. It just means that you are not getting the best of both worlds.


----------



## Richf (Apr 26, 2008)

It may also meaning removing the qualities that the wax my give the finish ie the "warmth" that many waxes add .

I think i will go back to Z8 and keep the OS for wheels


----------



## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

THis creates a little confusion as to products etc

I thought Optiseal was step up from Z8/Red Mist/M135 etc and more a Z CS, however this contradicts that belief and puts Z CS as the only one that can be put over wax

To be fair it's my ignorance as Optimum don't say put it obver a wax where as Zaino do with ZCS.

I know Red Mist can attack uncured wax but does Z CS work like Optiseal?


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Jon - I know UPGP also dissolves the wax and cannot believe that Z-CS does anything different. They say it can be applied over a wax, but nowhere does it say what happens to the wax underneath? I would bet my mortgage all 3 of the WOWA sealants do the exact same thing....

OS is a sealant just like Z-CS, Duragloss, Zaino etc etc and will provide months of durable protection in my experience. Its just that it could be applied over a wax if you wanted while many of the others suggest a perfectly cleaned base is required. Dr G confirms that the solvents in it will dissolve the wax underneath allowing it to bond. I'll open a HUGE can of worms here and ask how we know RM doesnt do the exact same thing? It flashes off just as quick or even quicker than OS, so how come the solvents in that arent dissolving the wax as well? You use more RM than you do OS, so there is also more solvent being put on the paint. As there is no ********** way of knowing if the wax underneath actually survived, we are back to the whole 'layering' argument again.

There is a massive difference between "can be applied over wax..." and "does not remove the wax underneath". Z-CS is part of the Zaino system and specifically promoted to be used over Z-AIO and Z-2/5, so there is nothing to suggest any wax layers you might put it on are any safer than with OS etc.


----------



## ads2k (Jul 12, 2006)

Blimey that's put the cat amoung the pigeons :lol:

I always thought 'wrongly' that you really were sealing in the waxed look with OS. Thanks for bringing this to the fore matey - seems like we've all been wasting product and time .

Seems like it's really only a sealant QD like RM etc then. It just goes to show that the 'look' definately is in the eye of the beholder, as layering OS over the top of freshly applied wax doesn't actually do anything for you.......

Will change how I view and use it in future me thinks.


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

its not a QD Adam - its a sealant. Put it on bare paint and get full sealant protection, like any sealant. Its NOT like Z-8/RM etc...

You DONT want to put it on like a QD or you will dissolve whats underneath. Use it as a base layer and QD over the top with RM etc if you want.


----------



## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

Z8 and RM are also spray sealants though

Z8, RM, RMT, AND ZCS & Optiseal are all essentially the same thing

Although ZCS and Optiseal are probably stronger in solvent and polymer content and non buffing products


----------



## ads2k (Jul 12, 2006)

Bigpikle said:


> its not a QD Adam - its a sealant. Put it on bare paint and get full sealant protection, like any sealant. Its NOT like Z-8/RM etc...
> 
> You DONT want to put it on like a QD or you will dissolve whats underneath. Use it as a base layer and QD over the top with RM etc if you want.


:wall::wall: what am I on about sealant QD  - sorry mate got a really bad cold and not thinking straight.

I've never used it like a QD, being a complete muppet - always like a spray sealant over an existing layer of wax or sealant. Maybe I need to try 'this' on it's own  - does this mean that you could layer it quicker then before maybe as no underlaying layers and being broken down 

You've used it more than me so you're the expert :thumb:


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

but Z-8 must be water based though as you can dilute it 1:1 with water. Thats wouldnt work if it had the high solvent content of RM, as Dom has suggested previously.

I think categorising and grouping products is dangerous. Look at each one individually and dont always try to group it with something else. We like patterns as human beings as they can save our lives, but they can also trip us up


----------



## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

ads2k said:


> :wall::wall: what am I on about sealant QD  - sorry mate got a really bad cold and not thinking straight.
> 
> I've never used it like a QD, being a complete muppet - always like a spray sealant over an existing layer of wax or sealant. Maybe I need to try 'this' on it's own  - does this mean that you could layer it quicker then before maybe as no underlaying layers and being broken down
> 
> You've used it more than me so you're the expert :thumb:


It means you can use it;
- On it's own 
- To quickly top up a car with a failing LSP
- As a base for a wax


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

ads2k said:


> :wall::wall: what am I on about sealant QD  - sorry mate got a really bad cold and not thinking straight.
> 
> I've never used it like a QD, being a complete muppet - always like a spray sealant over an existing layer of wax or sealant. Maybe I need to try 'this' on it's own  - does this mean that you could layer it quicker then before maybe as no underlaying layers and being broken down
> 
> You've used it more than me so you're the expert :thumb:


I take the 12hr cross linking comment to mean 1 layer per 12 hours TBH. I'm sure I have also read this eleswhere, but who really knows :lol: I would think that using something gentle, like OCW or OID as they are water based, within that 12 hrs would be reasonably safe (but thats just a guess from a non-chemist ), but I would expect another solvent based product would simply strip it all again until its cross linked properly and fully cured?


----------



## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

Bigpikle said:


> but Z-8 must be water based though as you can dilute it 1:1 with water. Thats wouldnt work if it had the high solvent content of RM, as Dom has suggested previously.
> 
> I think categorising and grouping products is dangerous. Look at each one individually and dont always try to group it with something else. We like patterns as human beings as they can save our lives, but they can also trip us up


Boxes, I like boxes 

Completley agree about product individuality, but they all have a process use (and some cross over into others).

Optiseal (and Zaino CS) for me has just changed box from "different" to Spray sealant :thumb:


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

FUSS OVER

MOVE ALONG - NOTHING TO SEE IN THIS THREAD :lol:


there you go, all back to normal now. Just wait until the DW massiv tunes in later :wall:


----------



## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

I have recategorised and created new boxes

WOWO Sealant - Wipe On Wipe Off 

SOWO Sealant - Spray On Wipe Off (Z8, RM, RMT, MUQD & M135)

SOWAWA Sealant - Spray On, Wipe And Walk Away (ZCS & Optiseal)


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Epoch said:


> I have recategorised and created new boxes
> 
> WOWO Sealant - Wipe On Wipe Off
> 
> ...


its WOWA - wipe on walk away 

and dont forget to put UPGP in there and I have heard a tip there might be a 4th one to join the pack soon as well....


----------



## Epoch (Jul 30, 2006)

Bigpikle said:


> its WOWA - wipe on walk away
> 
> and dont forget to put UPGP in there and I have heard a tip there might be a 4th one to join the pack soon as well....


How do you get it out of the bottle ?

And did you never see Karate KId

UPGP - Ultima Paint Guard P?


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

yep - but WOWA has already been in existence since these products came about, thats why I suggested it. Otherwise WOWO would be POMFCOSPAWOWA

thats 'Pour onto MF cloth or soft pad and wipe on wipe off' :lol:

anyway - stop getting off topic young grasshopper


----------



## ads2k (Jul 12, 2006)

Epoch said:


> I have recategorised and created new boxes
> 
> WOWO Sealant - Wipe On Wipe Off
> 
> ...


You and your boxes :lol:

so what are you going to put into 'WOWA' as Damon has said - I prefer WOWO, with a cloth in each hand myself.....

Would it be things like - CG Blitz,4*PPS,OCW - maybe some questionable ones.

This is what *this* forum should be all about - constructive/helpful comments and advice.


----------



## NKS (Feb 22, 2007)

Bigpikle said:


> Just wait until the DW massiv tunes in later :wall:


Did someone call :lol:

Used this for the first time last night on its own, on fresh paintwork. All I can say is wow! Not sure if it was the fading light but as the product dried the paintwork got noticably darker and this morning in full blazing sunshine looks better than most other products I have tried - this is exactly the glassy finish you get from FK1000p but at a quarter of the time, it took me about 6-7 minutes to do a Volvo S60 fully including windows. I am sure i could get this down to sub 5 minutes after a few applications.

In conclusion this product does exactly what it should - seals, protects and has a superb glassy finish. All in the time it takes to have a few swigs of your favourite drink.

Thanks to Damon, who managed to convince me of its ease of use :thumb:


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Does this mean it would also dissolve glazes and anything non sealanty?

How does OCW work in this context? Opt say we can layer their products?


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

RussZS said:


> How does OCW work in this context? Opt say we can layer their products?


Just to add fuel...


> from Optimum Web Site...
> Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer is also an excellent companion product to
> Optimum Opti-Seal. Whereas Opti-Seal's main objective is protection, Optimum Instant
> Detailer pours on the gloss and slickness. The combination can't be beat! Wait about 30
> minutes after applying Opti-Seal to use Optimum Instant Detailer.


However, confuzzlement him reign!

At some point in the future, probably around September, so plenty of time to
contemplate and get some kind of order, I'm going to take my paintwork back
ready for winter protection. Now, I'm a great fan of Optimum products, though
what I'd like to do give a great deal more depth to the wonderfully glassy
finish.

So, how about this for a strategy, as an assimilation of where this thread is
so far....

1) Pre-wash
2) Clay
3) Re-wash
4) Clean with R222 Paintwork Cleanser
5) Layer of OOS
6) Coat or 2 of something like R222 100% Carnauba (for some depth)
Next day or later...
7) QD with ONR
8) Coat or 2 of FK1000p as LSP

I'm keeping my fingers well crossed that the FK1000p isn't going to slip off the
wax...

From there, the regular maintenance until the Spring could be...
a) Occasional coats of OOS after an ONR clean followed by OIN as above
b) OIN coatings as and when, again after an ONR clean

Regards,
Steve


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

RussZS said:


> Does this mean it would also dissolve glazes and anything non sealanty?
> 
> How does OCW work in this context? Opt say we can layer their products?


good questions Russ - no idea?

OCW/OID are both water based and contain no solvents, so not likely to dissolve anything. Layering is up for debate and there are plenty who believe most stuff wont layer at all, and plenty who think you build significant films of LSP on the paintwork. Who knows?



Lowiepete said:


> Just to add fuel...
> 
> However, confuzzlement him reign!
> 
> ...


Steve - I doubt the FK1000 will slip off, but have a feeling the very high solvent content in the FK1000 will simply strip the R222, unless you are VERY careful in how you apply it... The high solvent levels (like quite a few durable waxes etc) combined with a foam pad and any pressure from rubbing back and forth sounds like a recipe to clean off your underlying LSP to me 

I would want the FK1000 to have THE best bond with the paint possible for winter, so skip all the other LSP stages and put 2 layers direct onto clean paint. I would bet (except I'm not a betting man) you wouldnt see any difference in looks at all...but I may just be a heretic :lol:


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I meant layering in terms of OOS on top of OCW - surely it would dissolve the wax again? 

I do love OOS though, great looking LSP. If beading was better, it's all I'd ever use.


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

RussZS said:


> I meant layering in terms of OOS on top of OCW - surely it would dissolve the wax again?
> 
> I do love OOS though, great looking LSP. If beading was better, it's all I'd ever use.


I take it to mean that OOS will do the same to OCW... so just use OCW as the topper.

Get a few layers of OS on and beading is much improved IME. I had about 5 layers on the MG by the end of the summer and nothing would stay on it. When it did get rained on during summer days out it was beading like a trooper and would completely self dry once it got moving


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Have you ever tried it on glass? It's amazing!

I put it on Trev's MG, and that looked the best it ever has! He likes beading though, so Artemis is the favourite at the moment.

There is an amazing pic of a freshly polished black car on Autopia (Corvette I think), just with a few layers of Opti Seal on top. It looks incredible, like the 350Z n the Zaino site.

I guess polish, then Opti Seal would be okay too, as any 'oils' from a polish like Megs#80 would also be dissolved?


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

What also impresses me, is how Opti Seal has stayed on my wheels, despite using 4:1 Surfex and Bilberry. It's hardcore stuff!!

I've never put multiple layers on though... I shall try that next. I have some Britemax stuff to try too...


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

Bigpikle said:


> The high solvent levels (like quite a few durable waxes etc) combined with a
> foam pad and any pressure from rubbing back and forth sounds like a recipe
> to clean off your underlying LSP to me


Well, as you know, I don't do rubbing, so the careful bit will definitely apply.
However, it's the "solvents" bit that scares me.


Bigpikle said:


> I would want the FK1000 to have THE best bond with the paint possible for winter


Reading this tells me that I'm going to have to do some experimenting well 
before winter arrives. It's all "eye of the beholder" stuff, but trying to achieve
depth /warmth / wetness or whatever is going to be as elusive as ever with 
my metallic beige paintwork. I wish I'd insisted on the creamy metallic green 
that Renauly apply to the Koleos. I reckon it would suit the Coupe...

Regards,
Steve


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

RussZS said:


> Have you ever tried it on glass? It's amazing!
> 
> I put it on Trev's MG, and that looked the best it ever has! He likes beading though, so Artemis is the favourite at the moment.
> 
> ...


you mean this one 












Lowiepete said:


> Well, as you know, I don't do rubbing, so the careful bit will definitely apply.
> However, it's the "solvents" bit that scares me.
> 
> Reading this tells me that I'm going to have to do some experimenting well
> ...


you may be right - its a tough colour. I think you'd like the bright, crisp glassy look of the FK1000 though. All FK products really seem to do the brighter more blig look - always described as a thicker layer of clearcoat. I say work with what you paint naturally does - flake etc and dont try make metallic beige offer what solid black does, as you'll forever be disappointed.


----------



## Gleammachine (Sep 8, 2007)

I've always used Opti-seal as a stand alone product, mainly for alloys and difficult trim, mesh or diffusers that aren't painted.
As a sealant based product It's never really figured as a top coating over a wax.
If you apply Z-8 over a wax before it has cured then it will strip some of the protection away also, most waxes require the curing time for a reason.


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Yes!

Don't suppose you know what he used on those tyres? I love that look.


----------



## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Cheers for the post! I usually apply, if I decide to layer with sealant and wax, OS (very thoroughly, i.e. 2 coats) and then about an hour later a nuba goes on top. Hmm, if it takes a full 12 hours to cross-link would the 1-hour curing time be enough then? I would assume, since it's going to be the first one on the paint anyway, no?


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

Although this information is much appreciated. :thumb:
Let us not forget that solvents and alcohol contained with in these topping or spray sealants come is different strengths and guises. So this only further muddy's the water. As to which of these products are possible wax safe, and again this is dependant on the ingredients within the waxes also.

Get more boxes Jon. You might need them. :lol:

Where solvent or alcohol is used in the drying process of these spray sealant. I would be very sceptical if you could just totally classify them as wax killers.
Gordon.


----------



## Spoony (May 28, 2007)

Fantastic post, thanks. Certainly helpful to me, though I'm yet to try it out


----------



## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

On the flip side .What happens when you put a wax over cured opti seal?


----------



## Lowiepete (Mar 29, 2009)

caledonia said:


> Where solvent or alcohol is used in the drying process of these spray sealant
> I would be very sceptical if you could just totally classify them as wax killers.


Gordon or BP,
Does all this mean that we should perhaps become "brand tarts" - like 
staying exclusively with Optimum, or with FK etc., rather than mix & matching 
various products? For example, I've looked at the FK (US) web site, and it
has similarities with the Optimum one, where products are seemingly designed
to work together within their ranges.

Regards,
Steve


----------



## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

I think it is a very good LSP stand alone sealant and use it all the time. Finish and beading are great and customers love the effect, ecpecially on black.

If I wax over the top then I would not use Opti Seal to top up just rely on the fact it is there when the wax wares off.

I have more and more customers asking for this rather than wax, cool in my book as I don't have to spend ages waxing.

Have done two Black cars recently and one customer says that Opti Seal gives better beading, sheeting and clarity than certain waxes made in Switzerland. At £16 a bottle it is a god send.

I love waxes but are they being taken over by technology??????And customer demands???

Perhaps this may remove the brand snobbery and stupid prices for waxes from this industry???


----------



## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Mirror Finish said:


> I think it is a very good LSP stand alone sealant and use it all the time. Finish and beading are great and customers love the effect, ecpecially on black.
> 
> If I wax over the top then I would not use Opti Seal to top up just rely on the fact it is there when the wax wares off.
> 
> ...


Well my first go certainly opened my eyes. i cant comment on whether it was better or not than a mix of collinite 915, vics concours and ***** concours, but it certainly looked shinnier, and definately beaded better. And that took 10 minutes tops, the previous combination took weeks to layer.


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

nicks16v said:


> On the flip side .What happens when you put a wax over cured opti seal?


...you end up with wax on the surface and OS next to the paint, as you'd expect. You can easily trst that as something like OCW doesnt beads as tightly as OS, and when you apply it over the top you will see te looser OCW beads next time it rains.


----------



## dogma (Feb 12, 2008)

What about over a glaze like EZ creme , Danase wet glaze or Blackhole ? Especially over a glaze with fillers ?


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

dogma said:


> What about over a glaze like EZ creme , Danase wet glaze or Blackhole ? Especially over a glaze with fillers ?


good question and I can only guess...


----------



## Blazebro (May 18, 2007)

I find you need to add 2-3 layers of Optiseal to get a nice slick feeling. One just isn't enough. Used correctly you can get top results with it:



















3 Coats od Optiseal put on 10 mins apart, that's all I used.


----------



## Guest (Jul 1, 2009)

^^^ Feck me, that's shiny! :thumb:

Just bought a tin of FK1000P too . Opti-seal does look very tempting, especially as a WOWA product.


----------



## Blazebro (May 18, 2007)

Phisp said:


> ^^^ Feck me, that's shiny! :thumb:
> 
> Just bought a tin of FK1000P too . Opti-seal does look very tempting, especially as a WOWA product.


Same here. I'm going to try that on the wifes car, as I think, as hers gets a bit more abuse, maximum protection is what's needed.


----------



## akimel (Oct 25, 2008)

I wonder what happens if one applies Opti-Seal or Ultima Paint Guard Plus to a surface like Danase Wet Glaze. Is there any point in using DWG if one is planning to use a WOWA product on top of it?


----------



## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

WOW Blazebro. That looks awesome.


----------



## cymro (Sep 9, 2008)

Hi, I have been using FK1000 for a few months now and am really happy with its looks and ease of use , but I am thinking of trying out Opti seal , even though I would still use FK1000 as I enjoy using it .

What If i put Opti seal over FK1000 , would it bond OK and would it affect the excellent beading and sheeting properties of FK1000.


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

it will bond perfectly, but OS doesnt have the same tight beading as FK1000. If the FK is fading (and that should be at 6+ months) then use it for added protection but otherwise just QD and leave the FK IMHO. I have and use both by the way.


----------



## mellowfellow (Jul 11, 2009)

Hi Bigpikle , i got your reply on another thread about opti-seal, is it ok just to put it on over SRP or Pinnacle advanced finishing polish ? And are there any major differences in durability opposed to the likes of EGP. thanks in advance . I will be using any new products i decide to purchase on Nissan Pearl Black paint.


----------



## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

OS would go over SRP fine it may dissolve the fillers in SRP but i am not 100% sure


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

mellowfellow said:


> Hi Bigpikle , i got your reply on another thread about opti-seal, is it ok just to put it on over SRP or Pinnacle advanced finishing polish ? And are there any major differences in durability opposed to the likes of EGP. thanks in advance . I will be using any new products i decide to purchase on Nissan Pearl Black paint.


Why not get some Optimum Poli-Seal at the same time?

http://www.detailedobsession.com/ca...d=251&osCsid=e1ebe03de2a9b9d31cf91f340b4040be


----------



## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Poli-Seal is very very good


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

yep - Poli-Seal/Opti-Seal is a great combo I have used a few times :thumb:


----------



## grayfox (Apr 15, 2008)

Poli-seal ay? has anyone that used it found any advantages over SRP? Thinking it might be formulated to work with Opti-seal and so its advantage is there im guessing?

oh plus Iv just read it doesn't stain trim..


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

Poli-Seal is a great AIO. It has light cut but has the beauty of being great for use by rotary and RO machines. Leaves no mess and dust and zero residue when used correctly. Not sure if its going to fill/hide like SRP but it does leave protection. I have a test running right now of the 2 products side by side on my roof, applied by hand.

Not much in it if using by hand, but PS is a really good 1 step AIO for a rotar application, and will remove light marring/swirls etc.


----------



## mellowfellow (Jul 11, 2009)

Thankks for the advice BIGPIKLE, and replies from other guys . i was going to get all the Duragloss products , but now after some advice by BIGPIKLE, i am almost certainly going to get the OPTIMUM products including ONR. 
Every day i think i have decided on products, then something else comes to my notice. 
I still have loads of AG SRP and HI DEF wax so will probably use them up first. 
Is it ok to put opti seal over SRP or will it strip out filler ? I also have afull bottle of PInnacle Advanced Finishing polish , so would that be ok under OPti- seal ? 
and my last question, is it ok to put HI DEF wax over optiseal ? 
Sorry for the questions but i have read the site for well over 100 hours in the last 2 weeks and just end up being more indecisive than ever...lol .
Sorry for the questions .
Kind regards


----------



## mellowfellow (Jul 11, 2009)

Bigpikle said:


> Poli-Seal is a great AIO. It has light cut but has the beauty of being great for use by rotary and RO machines. Leaves no mess and dust and zero residue when used correctly. Not sure if its going to fill/hide like SRP but it does leave protection. I have a test running right now of the 2 products side by side on my roof, applied by hand.
> 
> Not much in it if using by hand, but PS is a really good 1 step AIO for a rotar application, and will remove light marring/swirls etc.


How are the test results going ? Any differences so far ?


----------



## mellowfellow (Jul 11, 2009)

Bump for this , does any one know if opti seal or ONR for that matter removes fillers from the likes of SRP,PB blackhole and Britemax#4. thanks. I just washed a car with ONR that i machined then polished with SRP and EGP last week , and i am pretty sure it has removed some of the fillers.


----------



## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

If you have done as you have said. With SRP then sealed with EGP. Then there will be very little chance of removing the fillers as they have been sealed in.

As the EGP starts to fade you might see some fillers being removed but not now.
Gordon.


----------



## mellowfellow (Jul 11, 2009)

Blazebro said:


> I find you need to add 2-3 layers of Optiseal to get a nice slick feeling. One just isn't enough. Used correctly you can get top results with it:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My God, i thought you had 24 hours between coats , that is fantastic news , i got all my optimum products on Wednesday, have used ONR, awesome results . Get new car today (Friday) so will apply first coat OOS on Saturday really looking forward to results.


----------



## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

Cracking product.


----------

