# Official Winter Detailing Thread



## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Ok, so I've noticed 2 winter thread already within 2 days of each other
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=182833
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=182952

There was also this one at the start of the month
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=179045

Wouldn't believe it's still August, well, almost September.... Anyway, instead of having loads of the predictable "what to do for the winter" type threads, how's about one thread, and maybe pin it at the top?

Having looked at last years thread, here's a few general tips:

*General Tips*


When you go out to clean the car wrap up warm and look after your hands, cooling water will suck the heat out of your hands quicker than you realise!!
If you do use water to defrost the car, only use lukewarm water - Too hot and you severely risk cracking a windscreen.
If your wipers are frozen in place, leave them to defrost or use a deicer, pulling them off can rip the rubbers.
Don't leave your PW where it might freeze, if the water freezes in the pump it can crack the pump casing (another reason why you MUST use antifreeze in the coolant system in winter, or you might end up with a cracked engine block)
Don't use ice scrapers on plastic light clusters and lenses, they'll end up scratched and scuffed. 
For those who have a van for detailing or other use - Use a small fan heater in your van set upto a timer socket set to come on at 6:00am. Place where it is safe to do so in your van - run extension cable to a socket in your garage. Heats your van inside to a nice toasty morning reception and keeps everything frost free inc your windscreen
1 pair of stretchy, thin, ladies wooly gloves under a pair of washing up rubber gloves. Warm water. Hands stay warm and dry and you still maintain a little dexterity

*Detailing Tips*


A decent prep is key with a decent long lasting wax/sealant on it to help the dirt cling less.
Frequent 'no touch' washes where you literally snow foam, PW rinse, Snow foam and then rinse again. Then every 3 weeks or so wash properly, 2bm etc, and top up the wax if needed. - _This is my personal technique, touch it as little as possible_
If washing your car at night, ensure you dry inside the doors rubbers otherwise your car may freeze up and you will struggle to get into the car in the morning.
Empty your hose pipe.
Aother tip, get a garden sprinkler and drive your car over it to clean lose salt/grim from under the car
Some products (particularly shampoos and other liquids) may "separate" or freeze. Ensure your storage area is well insulated, or move them indoors

*Recommended Products*


Colly 476s - Available from: Clean Your Car | i4Detailing
FK 1000p - Available from: Serious Performance | Clean Your Car
Waxoyl - Available from: Halfords | Local Auto Factors
Bilt Hamber Dynax Under Body - Available from: Rubbish Boys
 Megs #16 - Available from: Clean Your Car

*Useful Links*

Keeping your shed warm
Winter wear
Is your car ready for winter? - Blog/Article by Polished Bliss

Add your tips/advice/products, and I'll amend this post or easy reference


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Waxoyl is way out of date something like Bilt Hamber Dynax Under body is much better.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Cheers fella.... Most people will know of Waxoyl more than anything else I'd imagine


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Aother tip, get a garden sprinkler and drive your car over it to clean lose salt/grim from under the car


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

-Mat- said:


> Cheers fella.... Most people will know of Waxoyl more than anything else I'd imagine


Aye but it crack and lets the moisture in but the Dynax UB stays flexible:thumb:


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

added to the list fella


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## Eddy (Apr 13, 2008)

where does one buy this waxoil or bilt hamber alternative?


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## Beau Technique (Jun 21, 2010)

From a business perspective but some things should be considered when out driving anyway.................

As you are more than aware, the winter months are horrendous for anyone regardless of trade but it does seem that we as valeters/detailers have more than enough to contest with.

*•	Treacherous road conditions
•	Customers not cancelling and remembering they didn't do so when you arrive
•	Water issues
•	Equipment playing up or freezing
•	Products freezing and or not working as they should due to low temperatures *

Now I am sure that driving in these conditions is risk enough but as we work in them we should take time to reflect on the issues:

Using cold water whilst work areas are already frost or snow covered is more than likely going to cause an area which will be like that of an ice skating rink.

Ensure you have work boots that are slip resistant, these won't be 100% effective but will help keep you on your feet, you don't want to slip and break something or you will be out of action for some time with no income.

By law both work sites and yourself are supposed to carry grit and spillage crystals but I can guarantee 99% of either do not carry either, if you can, do!

*Things to consider carrying on your work vehicle: *

*•	Thick, warm blanket
•	Hot flask of your favourite tipple I:E tea or coffee ( no alcohol, be sensible )
•	A change of thick, warm clothing. If you get wet during or after a job this is handy to have, remember, you can still turn hypothermic and get poorly very quickly never mind how old you are it can still happen.
•	If you have a generator or power inverter, carry a kettle and some tea/coffee and sugar for hot drink, the sugar will keep your energy levels up whilst in this harsh weather.*

These are all safety measures to potentially think about as you could be stuck in the middle of nowhere and get very cold or at worst get very poorly very quickly.

*Back to the work vehicle:* 

There is no easy way to keep your vehicle thawed out 100% unless you removed everything out of the vehicle and kept it all indoors.

*These are a couple of options to maybe think of using:*

Oil burning radiator left in the van overnight.
These normally come with a thermostat that you can set the desired heat, the lower the heat the cheaper the running cost from your household.
It doesn't necessarily have to be on the highest setting so set to what you feel is right for the van and your household energy bills.

Another way is to get a paraffin/oil greenhouse heater.
These cost little to run and will take the chill off you vehicles internals.
https://www.parasene.com/vshop/details.asp?prodID=206

It would be beneficial to fill your water tank full, this is proven as it takes longer to freeze higher volumes of water, you may need to add 10ltrs of warm water in the morning as some ice may of appeared on the uppermost surface.

Wrap up warm, use gloves to help heat stay within you and not leave your body, there are gloves that are actually quite effective like sealskinz, expensive but worth it.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss...eywords=sealskinz+gloves&x=0&y=0&sprefix=seal

Fill a couple of 25ltr tubs of warm water before you leave this will help if any products are frozen or need a warm to coax them into action, this can aso be added to you wash bucket so again your hands will not get cold.

*No your limits!*

If it's to horrendous out there don't be afraid to cancel and don't panic about finances, it will not help issues and may resort in a rash decision being made.

:speechles Remember, your van is your business.
*Crash it, you're out of work.*

Remember, your in a very tretourous business even if it is only cleaning cars, there are many hazards to consider.

Hope this is of help to you all, Scott :thumb:


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Eddy said:


> where does one buy this waxoil or bilt hamber alternative?


http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/shop/index.php?view=brand&brand_id=8


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Will add links to products in the first post


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

I am going to seal the underside of my car with Hydrate 80 first and then two coats of Dynax UB.My bosses brother has a very good car painting workshop and has a car lift and he says I can use it anytime:thumb:


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

I fancy giving this a go for my winter protection http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/carlack-68-long-life-sealant/prod_355.html


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## mattsbmw (Jul 20, 2008)

purely from a safety point of view, think about others before putting many litres of water on the road or pavement near where you live, it can be very dangerous.

Consider reduced water washes (ONR) or using a garage jetwash.


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## Ross (Apr 25, 2007)

Don't forget this guys http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/meguiars-16-paste-wax/prod_98.html


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## GolfFanBoy (May 23, 2010)

Some good tips here, maybe sticky this thread?

In the winter I always bring my liquid products like SRP indoors to keep them out of the cold temperatures in my shed.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Cheers Ross :thumb:

GolfFanBoy: cheers for that! Remember some of my Megs Shampoo separating during winter of 2008


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## PJM (Jan 23, 2010)

Some top tips! 

I'll add mine- wear a pair of gloves, I wear 2mm neoprane diving gloves, you can pick a pair up quite cheaply on ebay. Even disposable nitrile gloves will help keep the chill off, cold water sucks the heat out of your body.

Always drain your pressure washer or take it inside.


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## Guest (Aug 29, 2010)

It's not just your windscreen that can crack under heat,all other bit's of glass including headlights! I'd also advise applying 1Z (funny name) to the door seals,1: so they dont freeze shut 
2: dont stratch the rubbers causing leaking


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## Strothow (Oct 29, 2009)

Ross said:


> Aye but it crack and lets the moisture in but the Dynax UB stays flexible:thumb:


Waxoyl stays "flexible" and seals itself too?


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

-Mat- said:


> Aother tip, get a garden sprinkler and drive your car over it to clean lose salt/grim from under the car


or an underbody lance for the PW


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

I have one of those, but for budget, then a straight line sprinkler is ok 

edit: would the lance not be too powerful and possibly strip any protection?

I just use mine for arches and under sills/bumpers


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

-Mat- said:


> I have one of those, but for budget, then a straight line sprinkler is ok
> 
> edit: would the lance not be too powerful and possibly strip any protection?
> 
> I just use mine for arches and under sills/bumpers


would of thought it would take alot of power to cut through waxoyl or similar tbh. ive got an underbody lance from autobrite - pukka stainless steel and <£30 iirc


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

same one as mine :thumb:


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## Guest (Aug 29, 2010)

Before undersealing,make sure the car underneath is 100% clean and not damp,or the sealent will trap damp/dirt in and defeat the purpose of applying sealent


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## apmaman (Jun 8, 2010)

whats the best way to get the under chassis sealed if you dont have access to a lift/pit.


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

apmaman said:


> whats the best way to get the under chassis sealed if you dont have access to a lift/pit.


getting the car as high off the ground as possible on axle stands or drive-on ramps i'd say..


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## vickky453 (Feb 27, 2009)

mattsbmw said:


> purely from a safety point of view, think about others before putting many litres of water on the road or pavement near where you live, it can be very dangerous.
> 
> .


+1. My neighbour washed his car last winter, and we live on sloped paths. As soon as he started moving backwards after washiing the car, it flew backwards really quick into the road :doublesho:


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## Ryan Hughes (Jun 15, 2009)

in a few weeks im going to be waxing and sealing my car ready for the winter months. Will it be best if i was to completly strip off any current wax that is on the car and then clay it and start again?

Also what would be a good follow on from applying SRP?


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## GolfFanBoy (May 23, 2010)

Ryan Hughes said:


> in a few weeks im going to be waxing and sealing my car ready for the winter months. Will it be best if i was to completly strip off any current wax that is on the car and then clay it and start again?
> 
> Also what would be a good follow on from applying SRP?


Yeah best to strip off any old protection to make sure the fresh coat bonds well to the bodywork. You could follow up SRP with AG HD Wax or similar LSP.


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## Leemack (Mar 6, 2009)

I'm dreading the bloody weather coming 

Still I do have 3 lovely warm valeting bays and a Hot PW :argie:


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## Beau Technique (Jun 21, 2010)

Showshine said:


> I'm dreading the bloody weather coming
> 
> Still I do have 3 lovely warm valeting bays and a Hot PW :argie:


Lucky you.

Get outside and get:detailer:
cant beat cold winds, cold water and general cold to get your blood pumping:lol:


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## GolfFanBoy (May 23, 2010)

scottbt said:


> Wrap up warm, use gloves to help heat stay within you and not leave your body, there are gloves that are actually quite effective like sealskinz, expensive but worth it.
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss...eywords=sealskinz+gloves&x=0&y=0&sprefix=seal


Which gloves from the sealskinz range would you recommend? I've had a look at that link but there's quite a lot to choose from. Nothing worse than trying to wash the car when you your hands are going blue with the cold 

btw really think this thread is worth making a sticky as some good tips :thumb:


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## Strothow (Oct 29, 2009)

GolfFanBoy said:


> Which gloves from the sealskinz range would you recommend? I've had a look at that link but there's quite a lot to choose from. Nothing worse than trying to wash the car when you your hands are going blue with the cold
> 
> btw really think this thread is worth making a sticky as some good tips :thumb:


Had sealskinz for mountain biking, and cannot get on with them, all 4 pairs we've had have leaked


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## Beau Technique (Jun 21, 2010)

Ultra grip for detailing purposes.


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## GolfFanBoy (May 23, 2010)

^ thanks, just ordered a pair to try. Seem to be some mixed reviews on Amazon but I'll give them a try for myself.


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## Jed (Aug 1, 2010)

What can be put on the under side if you've just cleaned it up? I don't want to be covering it black UB, is there anything clear?


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## VinnyTGM (May 10, 2010)

What products should I bring into the house to keep at moderate temperatures?I have 8 25L containers and several 5L containers.
I'm going to move in all the small retail sized bottles regardless.

I know it was said to keep your pressure washers inside after use, but is it ok to use them outside if it is icy or snowing?


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## PJM (Jan 23, 2010)

VinnyTGM said:


> What products should I bring into the house to keep at moderate temperatures?I have 8 25L containers and several 5L containers.
> I'm going to move in all the small retail sized bottles regardless.
> 
> I know it was said to keep your pressure washers inside after use, but is it ok to use them outside if it is icy or snowing?


Some products will be fine -although they may need a good shake. Things like polishes I will keep in the house.

You'll be fine using your pressure washer outside in the cold. They just should not be stored at sub zero temps with any water in them, as it can damage the pump when it frezes.


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Winterize your car*

Vehicle Mechanical Preparation (as recommended by ASE)
• Engine Performance - Get engine driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good repair shop. Cold weather makes existing problems worse. Replace dirty filters-air, fuel, PCV, etc.

• Fuel - Put a bottle of fuel de-icer in your tank once a month to help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Note that a gas tank which is kept filled helps keep moisture from forming.

Diesel - Like most fuels, diesel is a mix of hydrocarbons, and the components have different freezing points. For Number 2 diesel, as the ambient temperatures drop toward 32 degrees F (0 degrees C), it begins to cloud, due to the paraffin in the fuel solidifying. As the temperatures drop below 32 F, the molecules combine into solids, large enough to be stopped by the filter. This is known as the gel point, and generally occurs about 15 degrees F (-9.5 degrees C) below the cloud point.

This wax then forms a coating on the filter which results in a loss of engine power. The same thing happens on starting an engine when the temperature is below freezing. The filter becomes almost instantly coated with wax - usually, enough fuel gets through to allow the engine to idle, but not attain operating RPM. There are two common ways to overcome this: one is a diesel additive, the other is a fuel heater

Special low temperature diesel contains additives that keep it in a more liquid state at lower temperatures, yet starting a diesel engine in very cold weather may still pose considerable difficulties.

• Oil - Change oil with suitable winter rating and oil filter as specified in your manual -- more often (every 3,000 miles or so) if your driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips. Change oil with suitable winter rating and change oil filter

• Cooling System - The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled as recommended. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.)

• Glass weatherproofing seals - use 1z einszett Vinyl Rubber Care & Potectant "Tiefenpfleger" provides a temperature-resistant seal and a low-shine matte finish

• Windshield Wipers - Use the right windscreen fluid; together with proper wipers, an antifreeze solution will keep your windscreen clean at all times Replace old blades. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad (winter) blades to fight ice build-up. If your wipers are frozen in place, leave them to defrost or use a de-icer, pulling them off can rip the rubber.

Rain-X Latitude wipers work any better than my clunky original equipment blades. Well, yes they do. First of all, they don't freeze up and warp out of shape. We've had temperatures down to minus-25 Celsius in Ottawa lately, and the Rain-X wipers have held their shape. They also don't chatter at speed, although I have heard from some colleagues that similar designs do.

These seem fine as they also don't get packed with snow and ice, and should, therefore, obviate the need for purchasing winter blades.

• Apply an anti-fogging' product to windscreen; Glass Science Fog Clear Gel prevents interior fogging of the windshield, windows, and mirrors. One clear coat creates a moisture absorbent barrier that prevents the formation of condensation. Maintain optimum visibility in humid, rainy, or cold weather conditions, Fog Clear keeps working to maintain optimum visibility. Stock up on windshield washer solvent-you'll be surprised how much you use

• Heater/Defroster - Test heater, rear screen defrosters and hoses the heater and defroster must be in good working condition for passenger comfort and driver visibility. Carry an ice-scraper.

• Battery - The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly. Removal of cables can cause damage or loss of data/codes on some newer vehicles. Check your manual.

Have your battery and its charging system checked ('jump' leads may be useful for you, or to help someone else)

• Automatic battery charger - The Yuasa Smart Shot automatic battery chargers are available in 900 milliamp and 1.5 amp charge capacities. Automatic 12V 900 milliamp and 1.5 amp charge capacities ;fully automatic 3 level charge cycle for effective charging, reaches 14.4 volt peak, then automatically switches to float, with reverse polarity protection

• Lights - Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean road grime from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.

• Exhaust System - Your vehicle should be placed on a lift and the exhaust system examined for leaks. The trunk and floor boards should be inspected for small holes. Exhaust fumes can be deadly.

• Tyres - Worn tyres will be of little use in winter weather. Examine tires for remaining tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Check tyre pressures once a month. Let the tyre "cool down" before checking the pressure. Rotate as recommended. Don't forget your spare, and be sure the lifting jack is in good condition.

Towequipe Multi Grip Snow Ice Sock Chains - _http://www.towequipe.co.uk/categorylist/snow-chains-sock/_

• Brakes - your brakes; if the brakes are not performing well, the car may pull to one side when stopping.

• WeatherTech™ rubber floor mats or Husky Liners WeatherBeater™ are available for most popular vehicles

*Removing (Carpets / Mats) Road Salt Stains*

Use a stiff brush to dislodge any loose road salt and then vacuum, spray the area with a carpet cleaner and let it soak in, rinse with plenty of water and repeat until most of the stain has been lifted. Finally clean carpets by spraying the area with a carpet shampoo rinse and then remove with a carpet extractor. Actually, any mildly acidic product should neutralize alkaline salt

*Removing Road Salt from Paintwork*

ValuGard Decontamination System (B) alkaline neutralizer (pH 1.0) that is a blend of acids, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline road salt / water solution deposits (pH 9.0) and safely dissolves salt particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away. Apply to a clean and freshly rinsed surface. Allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailer's clay to remove contaminants. All necessary safety precautions should be taken whilst using this product.

Protect paint surface with a synthetic polymer sealant Collinite's Insulation Wax (845) or Finish Kare FK1000P

*Undercarriage*

Your vehicle's undercarriage; it's what you don't see that silently awaits underneath your cars. Removing an alkaline sprayed brine solution to protect your undercarriage is just as important as detailing the paint. Wheel wells, sub-frame, springs, fender well and all of the other black and gray parts underneath the body need cleaning and protection as well. It is possible to do this detail with the wheels on and just jacking the car up, but the ideal way is with the wheels off.

Never go underneath a car supported by the supplied jack - always use axle stands if you wish to work underneath the car. Always jack the car up at the manufacturer's recommended jacking points. Ensure the jack is in stable contact with both the jacking point (see owner's manual) and the ground. Always work on level ground.

After removing road salt, dirt, road grime, and etc with a pressure washer (Karcher Model K5.93M) neutralise the effects of the alkaline sprayed brine solution on the suspension, wheel wells and the undercarriage, and then spray Eastwoods Road Salt Neutralizer

_*Notes: *
1. Take along emergency supplies; ice scraper, gloves, sand and snow shovel in trunk, foil blanket, its construction maintains body heat in emergency situations plus a good flashlight, battery jump leads are also indispensable.

2. If you are storing your vehicle for the winter see article "Vehicle Long-Term Storage"

3. Winter detailing - the vehicle's paint system, tyres, glass, plastic and other exterior surfaces will be at the mercy of the elements, including wind, rain, sleet, snow, sand, gravel, and road salt. Autumn is your best opportunity to inspect and prepare your car for the ravages of winter, by providing the exterior paint system with a polymer or acrylic protective layer to provide a durable protection. Your car's paint, tires, leather and rubber trim all need attention, even if you have cared for them all summer. _

*Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved​*


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## juicy 666 (Jul 20, 2010)

i havent tried the bilt hamber under body protection but my car is completely sealed from the bottom with waxoil and for a 19 year old ford to not have a smidge of rust underneath that proves to me that its pretty good stuff!


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## Strothow (Oct 29, 2009)

Jed said:


> What can be put on the under side if you've just cleaned it up? I don't want to be covering it black UB, is there anything clear?


There is "clear" waxoyl, but you can still see its on there, i.e its not invisible like waxing paintwork.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Bump...

Gonna add this useful links in (will also add to post 1)

Keeping your shed warm

Winter wear


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

here's a nice blog to read from Polished Bliss:
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/blog/2010/10/is-your-car-ready-for-winter/

If you need a reason to protect your car, then give that a read :thumb:

Cheers Rich, Clark and Ange (oh, and John too )


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## GolfFanBoy (May 23, 2010)

-Mat- said:


> here's a nice blog to read from Polished Bliss:
> http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/blog/2010/10/is-your-car-ready-for-winter/
> 
> If you need a reason to protect your car, then give that a read :thumb:
> ...


+1 it's good reading for anyone who needs convincing on the importance of a good winter prep. Their 'seek advice' section is also worth a look for tips on detailing in general :thumb:

I spent all of last weekend giving the car a winter detail with wax and sealants applied. Next time out I'll give the new Sealskinz gloves a go to see how they help combat the cold during washing.


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Any chance of making this a sticky for the upcoming season?


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

-Mat- said:


> Any chance of making this a sticky for the upcoming season?


I would do but there's some simply totally inaccurate information been posted so far, and unless I'm going to have to edit all of that out, or ask someone else to, then I don't really want to 'officialise it' (I know that's not a word), by flagging it up as a sticky.


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

-Mat- said:


> here's a nice blog to read from Polished Bliss:
> http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/blog/2010/10/is-your-car-ready-for-winter/
> 
> If you need a reason to protect your car, then give that a read :thumb:
> ...


If you remove the "e" from my name and add it to Ang then you've got that spot on! :thumb:


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Clark @ PB said:


> If you remove the "e" from my name and add it to Ang then you've got that spot on! :thumb:


wasn't sure if you had an e or not, and I can never spell "Ange" LMAO


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## The Cueball (Feb 8, 2007)

-Mat- said:


> Ok, so I've noticed 2 winter thread already within 2 days of each other
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=182833
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=182952
> 
> ...


How many have you counted now mate????????????????



Good idea about this thread, not sure it worked though.....

:lol:


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Seen loads recently.... 

This wont be made a sticky, but we can keep bumping it, and pointing people to this thread  Anyway, it's still here and plenty of useful info. I've discussed with Viper about making it official, but there's been some content been posted that has prevented it from being "official".... Think it's down to inaccuracy of info posted by some users, and also other reasons

:thumb:


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## RandomlySet (Jul 10, 2007)

Anyone who has found this useful so far will be glad to know I am working on another thread/write up around detailing in the winter, covering various topics


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