# Why sealant instead of wax on alloys?



## mr v6 (Jun 29, 2007)

I usually wax the alloys now & again to give a quick shine & make the next wash a lot easier, but many of you seem to go on about sealing them with either PB, CG or another sealant.

3 questions:

What are the benefits of using a wheel sealant instead of a normal wax?

Does a specific wheel sealant offer better looks, protection & durability than a wax?

Which wax / sealant do people use?

:thumb:

PS: I ask because, for example, a tin of Collinite 476s lasts me quite a while, even using it on the paint on my coupe, so you can imagine how long a tub of smililar size of wheel sealant would last just doing the wheels. Just how cost efficient are wheel sealants? I don't want to buy a tin of sealant just for the sake of it when the wax I currently have will do.


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## cam73 (Oct 5, 2008)

Sealants are normally used as their longevity is normally superior to a wax. However as you have Colly, which is well known for it's longevity, I wouldn't bother changing. I use PB's wheel sealant (as I don't have Colly myself).


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

There's nothing wrong with using a durable wax on alloys such as Collinite 476S. :thumb:

Swissvax Autobahn is a wheel wax. 

Alan W


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

The theory is heat really. Most wheel waxes/sealants are designed with high temperature degradation due to temp from breaks etc, also they will be advertised as being super slick so dust doesn't stick. Most waxes (proper) break down easily in high temperatures. My fave is fk1000 as can use it on the car as well, lasts ages is easy to use IMO and the tin is massive :thumb:


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

stangalang said:


> The theory is heat really.


Matt,

Whilst I agree that heat is the 'theory' to dedicated wheel protection products have you known a wheel to get any hotter than a waxed bonnet (covering a hot engine) during the middle of a scorching summer's day? 

FK1000P is as good as anything I've found to protect alloys also. :thumb:

Alan W


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Alan W said:


> Matt,
> 
> Whilst I agree that heat is the 'theory' to dedicated wheel protection products have you known a wheel to get any hotter than a waxed bonnet (covering a hot engine) during the middle of a scorching summer's day?
> 
> ...


In practice no it's all marketing IMO, but I guess it could play apart on some cars?


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

stangalang said:


> In practice no it's all marketing IMO, but I guess it could play apart on some cars?


Perhaps! 

To answer the OP's original question dirt adheres more readily to a wax than a sealant which stays cleaner for longer.

Alan W


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Yeah, crap sticks to wax. 

I really like opti-seal, easy to use, lasts ages, and the bottle is great value.


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## MAUI (Feb 1, 2008)

Blackfire Metal Sealant can stand tempertures up to 500 degrees, great for wheels and engine.


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Wheel Surface Sealants*

Apply a sealant after cleaning to make maintenance easier, use a synthetic polymer sealant to protect wheel surfaces as it has a high melting point (350.oF +) The melting point of an organic wax (180.oF+) is too low for the normal temperatures encountered by vehicle wheel surfaces (195.oF+) Also using a polymer sealant enables the wheel surface to resist the adhesion of brake dust, dust and dirt, and road grime and it makes surface cleaning much easier using only a car wash concentrate and water solution.

I'm suprised that Blackfire, a synthatic wax can withstand temps similar to that of a nano coating (500.0F)


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## hooley (Nov 10, 2010)

I used to use wax/super resin polish on the wheels which does make them look nice but having recently bought Poorboys Wheel Sealant I can see the purpose as after a few months and regular washing most of the brake dust will come off the wheels with a pressure washer, and even more when snow foaming the car and wheels. 

As with all these products its all in the preparation. I removed wheels, cleaned with bilberry, then clayed with Megs clay, then polished with super resin polish as I have plenty if this and then sealed with 2 coats of PB wheel sealant.

I see that Autoglym do a Spray Can Wheel Sealant but have not used, anyone tried this??


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

TOGWT said:


> the normal temperatures encountered by vehicle wheel surfaces (195.oF+)


Never in my life have I encountered a road car wheel at 95°C!


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

bigmc said:


> Never in my life have I encountered a road car wheel at 95°C!


never driven hard or been to the track?


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## bigmc (Mar 22, 2010)

Yes but never had surface temps of 95°C on a wheel, alloy dissipates heat really quickly. 95°C is enough to give third degree burns.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Well, just the brake discs radiating a few hundred deg is more than enough to push surface temps into that temp range. Easily.


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## dooka (Aug 1, 2006)

Just think how hot your panels get when sitting in the sun, some dark colours become unbearable to touch, and has your protection failed on the panel, I wouldn't worry so much about the blurb..


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## Dixondmn (Oct 12, 2007)

i've tried everything from SRP to various sythetic waxes, to carnuba to sealants.

Sealants are my latest venture, with Jetseal 109 being my product of choice. The only down side to applying it is the bonding time, and curing time between coats. at a minimum, each wheel takes 35 mins, and thats not including removal, polishing / claying prior to the sealant


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## Alan W (May 11, 2006)

qstix said:


> Just think how hot your panels get when sitting in the sun, some dark colours become unbearable to touch, and has your protection failed on the panel, I wouldn't worry so much about the blurb..


Pretty much what I said in Post 5 Rob! :thumb:

Alan W


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

A wax looks 'better' however anything on them is better than nothing!
As long as they last from one wash to the next all good, but everything I have tried last at least several washes and grime comes off with a power washer and pre applied shampoo mix :thumb:


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## mr v6 (Jun 29, 2007)

Thanks everyone, I'll stick to my tin of 476s I think:thumb:.


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## rorz_vts (Sep 8, 2010)

i really like fk1000p on my wheels found it lasts alot longer than the CG wheel sealant


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

qstix said:


> Just think how hot your panels get when sitting in the sun, some dark colours become unbearable to touch, and has your protection failed on the panel, I wouldn't worry so much about the blurb..


I live in Australia, and I assure you, the sun does damage!


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## Robw757 (Mar 7, 2011)

I have used lots of different products on alloys, including good old Turtle Wax Orginal Hard Shell . The best high end product I have found is Gtechniq's C5 Wheel Armour which I have used on several customers cars recently. But then again it costs about £60 for 50ml bottle so not everyone is going to want to use it!


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## GrahamKendall (Sep 8, 2009)

Alan W said:


> Matt,
> 
> Whilst I agree that heat is the 'theory' to dedicated wheel protection products have you known a wheel to get any hotter than a waxed bonnet (covering a hot engine) during the middle of a scorching summer's day?
> 
> ...


Such a valid point! :thumb:


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## gizzmobell (Aug 3, 2010)

optiseal easy to use and long lasting.


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## Planet Man (Apr 12, 2008)

Bespoke wheel sealants should offer more than just a wax. No doubt 476s and FK1000p are very good. But our WSAS for example offers longer protection than most waxes. They are easier to apply and remove as well as leaving a finish equal to, or if not better than wax for paint. 

We tested WSAS against some dedicated paste & waxes for wheels and if we didn't believe it was better we would have never have made it.

That is our philosophy for our products. If it doesn't offer the user a significant benefit then we will not produce it.

If you don't want products that can offer some unique benefits then you won't go far wrong with your choice. It is good stuff:thumb:


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## markwales (Nov 15, 2009)

I will give jetseal a go then as I allready have bottle


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Fk1000p is great on wheels and body, sealants longer longevity the fk is a hybrid so applies as a wax but its synthetic as a sealant is and has higher melting point than wax.
But anything better than nothing.
Unless your a race driver the heat build up in the wheels should not be such an issue.

Carnauba wax has a 75-85 Deg Celsius so fairly high.

FK1000P Synthetic wax 250 Deg Celsius.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

I'll try an find my temp gun, I think a few people might be suprised...


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## Dangerroush (Nov 4, 2010)

What about Smartwax RimWax, i like the results on my DD, But i have just ordered some summer wheels for my Mustang, They are Chrome, what will be the best for those, Rim wax, Poorboys, a sealant, or something different.
Thanks guys
Si


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

type[r]+ said:


> I'll try an find my temp gun, I think a few people might be suprised...


Now that would be good to know...:thumb:
I know you are getting heat from the tyres warming and the brakes and it all comes down to distance driven conditions etc, but yeah get the sensor on would be really good to hear..:thumb:


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## thehulk2002 (Mar 16, 2011)

Is meguiars metal wax good for factory alloys ? or is Poorboys Wheel Sealant better ?


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## dooka (Aug 1, 2006)

Alan W said:


> Pretty much what I said in Post 5 Rob! :thumb:
> 
> Alan W


Opps, sorry Alan, must be great minds and all that ..


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## HeavenlyDetail (Sep 22, 2006)

TOGWT said:


> *Wheel Surface Sealants*
> 
> Apply a sealant after cleaning to make maintenance easier, use a synthetic polymer sealant to protect wheel surfaces as it has a high melting point (350.oF +) The melting point of an organic wax (180.oF+) is too low for the normal temperatures encountered by vehicle wheel surfaces (195.oF+) Also using a polymer sealant enables the wheel surface to resist the adhesion of brake dust, dust and dirt, and road grime and it makes surface cleaning much easier using only a car wash concentrate and water solution.
> 
> I'm suprised that Blackfire, a synthatic wax can withstand temps similar to that of a nano coating (500.0F)


I love your posts , your like an automated Bot searching the net for assistance and once found post the facts for all to see.
Keep it up :thumb:


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## spursfan (Aug 4, 2009)

Has anyone used Carlack68?
As a cleaner/sealant i would have thought that would be ideal.

Kev


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## pete911 (Apr 19, 2011)

I have polished alloys with no paint or annodise to protect them. All I have been doing to protect them is apply the same wax I apply to the car.

I would like to prrotect them and keep the high shine finish.

My question is should it be a wax like Rimwax or a protective coat like the ones metnioned in this thread.

If it's a protection is it suitable for bare alloy and once applied what do you do after cleaning to bring out the shine: just buff or apply a wax?

Many thanks.


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## Tips (Mar 27, 2011)

I've used paste waxes in the past to protect my wheels - but found them too much effort to wipe on, wait and buff off.

After much research (on here) - finally settled on Planet Polish Wheel Seal & Shine - and it is so much easier to apply and buff off compared with waxes.

According to the blurb it comes with "heat defense technology" which sells it to me.

Hope that helps.


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## pete911 (Apr 19, 2011)

Tips said:


> I've used paste waxes in the past to protect my wheels - but found them too much effort to wipe on, wait and buff off.
> 
> After much research (on here) - finally settled on Planet Polish Wheel Seal & Shine - and it is so much easier to apply and buff of as compared to waxes.
> 
> ...


Thanks. Do you know if it is OK to apply to bare polished alloy? Also, how far does the 250ml bottle go?


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## Tips (Mar 27, 2011)

pete911 said:


> Thanks. Do you know if it is OK to apply to bare polished alloy? Also, how far does the 250ml bottle go?


PPWS&S is suitable for all types of alloys and when buffed off - it added a fantastic shine and left the alloys slippery to the touch.

When I first saw the size of the bottle, i thought this isn't going to last long - but after going round all the wheels with two coats of protection - I soon realised this bottle will last me a long time.

There is a 10% discount code of *DW1525* for DW users, and I got a free sponge applicator with the product - which I thought was a wonderful gesture from the company.

Hope that helps.


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## PaulTheo (Sep 26, 2010)

Tips said:


> PPWS&S is suitable for all types of alloys and when buffed off - it added a fantastic shine and left the alloys slippery to the touch.
> 
> When I first saw the size of the bottle, i thought this isn't going to last long - but after going round all the wheels with two coats of protection - I soon realised this bottle will last me a long time.
> 
> ...


I tried this last year and now use nothing else it was the fact that not only did it give a good finish but it normally lasts longer than anything else I have tried. I get away with just the PW most of the time.


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## pete911 (Apr 19, 2011)

Tips said:


> PPWS&S is suitable for all types of alloys and when buffed off - it added a fantastic shine and left the alloys slippery to the touch.
> 
> When I first saw the size of the bottle, i thought this isn't going to last long - but after going round all the wheels with two coats of protection - I soon realised this bottle will last me a long time.
> 
> ...


I was just about to buy this when I got email from them.

it says this:

"Wheel Seal + Shine is designed for painted and/or lacquered wheels and we would not recommend its use on bare alloy.

We do sell another product which is ideal for polished alloy - Belgom Alu - it is available on our eBay site:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=280351076837&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT"

Not sure what to do now as this one seems like it has a wax base... Maybe I just have to go for something like RIM wax.

What other products can I consider using?


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## Gruffs (Dec 10, 2007)

I was under the impression Colly and FK are still sealants just Paste sealants.

Have i got this wrong?


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## pete911 (Apr 19, 2011)

Here's the wheel I am trying to look after. Its a polished and painted Fuch alloy.










Maybe I should use Seal and Shine on the paint and Alu on the petals?????


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## vRS_Pagey (Jul 6, 2009)

So, is FK1000P a wax or sealant? I only ask as on the 'Clean Your Car' website, its listed in sealants but says paste wax on the tin


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## nick.s (Dec 21, 2009)

I tend to go overkill on my alloys tbh, with Jetseal 109 topped with 476s, still didn't stop corrosion though  Ah well, at least the brake dust stood no chance


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## Tips (Mar 27, 2011)

pete911 said:


> Here's the wheel I am trying to look after. Its a polished and painted Fuch alloy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Always listen to the manufacturers recommendation - in your case that's what I'd do too.


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

Pagey1255 said:


> So, is FK1000P a wax or sealant? I only ask as on the 'Clean Your Car' website, its listed in sealants but says paste wax on the tin


its a sealant and nothing else


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

Gruffs said:


> I was under the impression Colly and FK are still sealants just Paste sealants.
> 
> Have i got this wrong?


no you have it right they are both sealants


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## vRS_Pagey (Jul 6, 2009)

cheekymonkey said:


> no you have it right they are both sealants


I thought Collinite 476 was a wax!  you learn something new every day. :thumb:


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## Planet Man (Apr 12, 2008)

Hi Pete, Eric sent me the question to answer. Looking at your wheels I think you will be fine with WSAS. You mention above that it is Alloy painted (with a clearcoat I would imagine)

If you want to be extra sure, you could use WSAS on the wheels and Belgom on the Petals. 

But looking at the pictures in isolation I think WSAS would cover all bases:thumb:


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## pete911 (Apr 19, 2011)

Planet Man said:


> Hi Pete, Eric sent me the question to answer. Looking at your wheels I think you will be fine with WSAS. You mention above that it is Alloy painted (with a clearcoat I would imagine)
> 
> If you want to be extra sure, you could use WSAS on the wheels and Belgom on the Petals.
> 
> But looking at the pictures in isolation I think WSAS would cover all bases:thumb:


Thanks for getting back to me. The petals ar'nt painted - htey are raw alloy just polished. The inner rims are painted with Wurth Black, so maybe your idea of WSAS on the black paint and Belgom on the petals is the way to go.....

Thank you.;


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## pete911 (Apr 19, 2011)

I bought a bottle of WS&S and used it on my Audi A8 wheels. I have to say the finished result is great. I just need to wait for the wheels to get dirty and see if it is easier to wash back to clean!


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## Tips (Mar 27, 2011)

pete911 said:


> I bought a bottle of WS&S and used it on my Audi A8 wheels. I have to say the finished result is great. I just need to wait for the wheels to get dirty and see if it is easier to wash back to clean!


You will love PPWS&S - A quick blast with a pressure washer is all that's required to bring them back to A1 condition.

Not only do the alloys feel glossy to the touch, the ease of applying and buffing off without residue, makes it a dream product to use.

Well done Planet Polish.

Hope that helps.


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

Tips said:


> You will love PPWS&S - A quick blast with a pressure washer is all that's required to bring them back to A1 condition.
> 
> Not only do the alloys feel glossy to the touch, the ease of applying and buffing off without residue, makes it a dream product to use.
> 
> ...


It does help the Planet Polish is one I promise myself to try (along with the MER wheel wax)
try and get some pics/vids up please :thumb:


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## Danno1975 (Mar 30, 2009)

bigmc said:


> Never in my life have I encountered a road car wheel at 95°C!


I think it's more the temperature of the brake dust and disk filings hitting the rim where you need more heat resistant protection.


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## Danno1975 (Mar 30, 2009)

pete911 said:


> Here's the wheel I am trying to look after. Its a polished and painted Fuch alloy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Love that alloy


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## pete911 (Apr 19, 2011)

Danno1975 said:


> Love that alloy


Thanks Danno. I polished them by hand. Took me hours.

Here's how they look on the car:










The rear ones are deeper dished so look better.


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## Danno1975 (Mar 30, 2009)

Very very nice classic Porshe... RemInds me of the baddies cars in 70s kids film Condor man


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## pete911 (Apr 19, 2011)

Danno1975 said:


> Very very nice classic Porshe... RemInds me of the baddies cars in 70s kids film Condor man


Thanks Danno - I have had it years and completely restored it.... It might be old but drives well.......


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