# Understanding the Meguiars #80 to #85 range



## Guest (May 27, 2009)

I was just looking at the Meguiars catalogue and they have SIX different polishing compounds! :doublesho

This has confused me somewhat. For example, PoorBoys have around THREE liquids in their polishing range (SSR 2, 2.5, 3), these guys have SIX.

Can I ask which of these does one need to use with a rotary polisher?

Would I be right in thinking I would need a bottle each of *#85*, *#83*, *#82*, and I should use each on a different pad on the same panel, aiming for a mirror-like finish? :buffer: Or should I for for *#84*, *#83* and *#82*?

I have summarised the range, cutting out some of the sales talk to get down to the point.

*#80 = Speed Glaze*
Speed Glaze provides paint protection. Removes light to moderate swirls, oxidation and paint defects. Restores a glistening "new paint" shine.

*#81 = Hand Polish*
A rich polish that produces a deep, wet-look shine. Achieves a perfectly smooth finish. Replenishes essential oils lost through oxidation.

*#82 = Swirl Free Polish*
A high performance polish that eliminates swirl marks fast. Specially blended polish with cleaning power removes fine scratches.

*#83 = Dual Action Cleaner/Polish*
Removes light to medium contamination, blemishes and oxidation that Swirl Free Polish will not. Combines the perfect amount of abrasive cleaner and pure, rich polish to produce a customer pleasing deep gloss shine.

*#84 = Compound Power Cleaner*
Contains aggressive abrasives to boost cleaning power and efficiency. Quickly removes 1,200 grit sanding marks. Diminishing Abrasives™ cut quickly, then reduce to a polishing rouge, while Buffered Abrasive™ action lubricates the finish to prevent scouring.

*#85 = Diamond Cut Compound*
A super fast, low swirl compound. It's the answer for high solids paint; cuts super fast with minimal swirls.


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## akimel (Oct 25, 2008)

All of the above may be used with a rotary polisher. For most jobs, you will probably find 80 & 83 sufficient. Instead of 84 and 85, you may wish to consider 95 and 105, but all may have a place in your arsenal. And of course there is also 205. The 105/205 combo is becoming very popular among Meguiar's users.


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

In order of abrasiveness, using Megs own scale:

#81 - cut 0/10
#82 - cut 3/10
#80 - cut 4/10
#83 - cut 6/10
#84 - cut 9/10
#85 - cut 10/10

#81 is just a glaze, no chemical cleaners or abrasives.
#80 leaves behind glazing oils, similar to #81. Apparently very similar to #82 in correction ability as its abrasives break down slightly faster.
#82, #83, #84 and #85 do not leave behind glazing oils.

For a rotary, #82/#80 would be the starting point on a finishing pad. 
#83 should be able to cope with quite severe defects. I have used it via a 4" polishing pad on a PC to remove 2500grit wetsanding marks on an Audi A4. It will be even more effective by rotary.
I've not used #84/#85 but these would only be needed for the most sever cases I would have thought. I can't help thinking that #85 was originally designed for single stage paints.


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## DSW (Jul 20, 2008)

#84--->foam cutting pad 
#85--->wool pad


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

Phisp said:


> #81 - cut 0/10
> #82 - cut 3/10
> #80 - cut 4/10
> #83 - cut 6/10
> ...


V.useful, I didn't see the scale on their website. :thumb:

So, if I was to use a combo of any two of the above on a 15 year old car Japanese car whose paint is actually in pretty good condition, especially when you consider age, shall I go for *#83* then* #82*, then *AutoGlym SPR*, followed by *carnuba wax*?

Will that work?

:buffer:


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

I'd use #80 instead of #82 and SRP. #80 leaves a superb LSP ready finish. Do a test patch to determine if #80 will give you the finish you require. If not, step up to #83 and follow with #80.


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

Phisp said:


> I'd use #80 instead of #82 and SRP. #80 leaves a superb LSP ready finish. Do a test patch to determine if #80 will give you the finish you require. If not, step up to #83 and follow with #80.


But if #80 has 0 cutting ability, then will that and the SRp simply mask the surface and next month when the car is cleaned etc. it will be back to square one, with cobwebs, marring and whatever else still intact?



:buffer:


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## Maikki (Oct 3, 2008)

#80 has 4/10 cutting ability and actually cuts better.

With japanese car I would start with #80/polishing pad. If that doesn't work then first #83/polishing pad then #80/finishing pad.

#80 leaves LSP ready finish so no need for SRP.


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

KeepingItClean said:


> But if #80 has 0 cutting ability, then will that and the SRp simply mask the surface and next month when the car is cleaned etc. it will be back to square one, with cobwebs, marring and whatever else still intact?
> 
> 
> 
> :buffer:


As above, you are confusing #80 (Speed Glaze) with #81 (Hand Polish).

I'm currently working my way around a 10yo Ford Focus using #80 and a 3M blue waffle finishing pad via rotary. It is doing a god job of removing the swirls with one or two passes.


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

Oh I see, I am being mighty thick - I thought for a split second that since #85 has the strongest cutting power, then #80 must be the weakest! Doh! 

Fine, I see that #80 is 4/10, so that makes sense 

*Phisp* - you say that it is taking you two passes to clear up a 10 year old Focus. Can I ask, would it be a bad thing to use #83, does that mean instead of two passes you will probably use just one, saving yourself a lot of extra time?


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## m00k (Mar 22, 2007)

there's a cutting scale on the front of each of the product bottles










i havent even opened these yet so i cant give a review of how good they are... mrs got me em (didnt really want them as i have menz stuff being delivered today... but sure i'll try em at some point, maybe on my dad's old almera lol)


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

I couldn't see any of that as the pics on the Megs website are small, thansk for posting up though, useful


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

KeepingItClean said:


> I thought for a split second that since #85 has the strongest cutting power, then #80 must be the weakest! Doh!


Oh no, that would be sensible . At a guess, I suspect #80 was developed after #85-#81.



KeepingItClean said:


> *Phisp* - you say that it is taking you two passes to clear up a 10 year old Focus. Can I ask, would it be a bad thing to use #83, does that mean instead of two passes you will probably use just one, saving yourself a lot of extra time?


Possibly. I must admit I'm not sure how much paint a single pass of #83 would remove compared to two passes of #80. 
However, you might want to follow #83 with a finer polish, like #80, to refine the finish. If, like me, you do then #83 followed by #80 will remove more paint than two passes of #80. Certainly, if I found that two passes of #80 were insufficient, I'd move up to #83.


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## Guest (May 28, 2009)

Many thanks


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