# DIY service and repair guide for; Kestrel/Deltalyo DAS6.



## james vti-s

This guide covers:

How to inspect and replace the main bearing.
How to inspect and replace the carbon brushes.
How to fix a split flex leads.

I ordered these from clean your car: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...al-action-polisher/das-6-spares/prod_722.html



Cost
DAS-6 Bearing - £5.95
DAS-6 Brushes - £5.95
Total Tax:	£3.88
Shipping:	£12.95 
Total £28.73 - €38.83

*#1 - How to inspect and replace the main bearing. *

With the backing plate off unscrew the counter weight screws



Remove the counter weight



Don't loose the highlighted washers.



Place all parts into the baggie supplied with the brushes.



With some force pull the bearing up and out of it's housing.



Old VS New



Below is a video on how to check the operation of the bearing.
Excess play and noise is sign of a bearing in need of a replacement.
left is the old worn bearing / right is the new unused bearing.



To refit or replace the bearing follow the above guide in reverse.

*#2 - How to inspect and replace the carbon brushes. *

First remove this screw from the back of the machine.



Now pull back the black section form the front red section, splitting the two housings.



Run the black housing down the lead and out of the way.



On the left and right sides of the machine you will see the brush mechanisms. Here the brushes are pushed onto the armature from the downward pressure of springs arm, they are connected to the electrical circuit with a female spade connector.
I will cover one side as the process is the same for both.

Unscrew the retaining screw.





And pull up the mechanism and it's spacer.



Bag all the removed parts. ******



This is the mechinisum removed to the side of the machine.



With force pull the spade connector away from the pin.
I had to use a screw driver to brake it free.



Now pull up the brush by its wire out if it's housing.



Good brushes should be flat and smooth, brushes that have corners chipped off are bad.

Left is the old brush right is the new brush





to refit or replace the brushes first the arm of the spring needs to moved out of the housing. Here i used a skewer, i cut the tip off so the top was flat, a butter knife is another idea.



With the arm up now push it off to this side.



Now place the carbon brush into the housing.



reattach the spade connector and screw down the retaining screw.

To refit or mechanism follow the above guide in reverse. ******

*#3 - How to fix a split flex leads.*

One common problem with machine polishers is that the leads brake inside the flex, this happens mostly right it the back of the machine and this is due to the constant movement at that point, think of bending a piece of wire between you hands it will snap if you keep bending it in the same place.

This is the symptom of a brake in the leads of the flex.

OP is from detailing world



iPlod999 said:


> Using my DA earlier in the week and it has started to lose power once it changes angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have taken the back of and checked the connection of the wires going in. Nothing loose in there.
> 
> Any other ideas anyone?


With the black housing separated from the rest of the machine you can see the wire of the flex.



remove the screws from the clamp



follow the blue and brown wires into the machine.



Loosen the screw enough so you can remove the Banana Spade connector


http://mxvaleting.ie/diy-service-and-repair-guide-for-kestreldeltalyo-das6/
Don't remove the screw as it will be difficult to refit



From here cut the flex below the high lighted area about a hands width to be safe.



From here on you will have to let your electrical know how lead you on as i did not have the tools on hand to show the rest 

I've learned alot from different forums and from here also, this is my way of paying it forward.

Thanks for looking.

Pictures and video are here for public use: http://s824.photobucket.com/user/ja...S6 DIY service and repair guide?sort=3&page=1

The more we share
The more we have
- Leonard Nimoy​


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## ffrs1444

Very very handy cheers mate and a great write up


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## james vti-s

You're welcome.


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## Sh1ner

Nice write up.
An alternative to replacing the bearing/hub assembly is to purchase some 6001rs or 6001z bearings. You can pick them up for as little as 10 for £5.
Remove bearing assembly as per instructions. Press out the hub from the old bearings and press on two new ones. Refit bearing.
Job done.


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## james vti-s

I though of that also but it's more effort but you do get more bang for buck I guess buying seprate. 

I'm glad you like the write up.


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## Sh1ner

It only takes a minute to remove and replace the hub so the time should not be an issue.
It also gives the option, If required, of using really good quality bearings SKF and the like, for no more than the cost of a new bearing assembly.

As they say a picture paints a thousand words. I'm not sure how often people appreciated how much effort goes in to something like this. It must have taken some considerable time to have put it all together, great photos and text, an excellent job.


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## james vti-s

For me I'd have had to go to my mechanic and it was easier to just buy and fit the lot.

About four + hours went into making this but from what I've gained from this site it's a small repayment.


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## shine247

As said above, a lot of effort, great post. May need to do the job one day so will remember this.


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## james vti-s

Thanks, I hope it helps you out.


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## LSpec

nice DIY


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## muzzer

Very informative and maybe not something i would try myself straight away, but at least if i decide to tackle it i can see exactly what i should be looking for and how to do it, top marks :thumb:


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## james vti-s

You are both welcome.


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## Blue Chip

Hi, 

sorry for raising old thread but i have a DAS-6 Pro and after few minutes of switching it on i start loosing power and it starts to smell like something is burning. 

I took it to local electric tool repair shop and they claim its the motor which is toasted. Could this be true or does it need new brushes? If yes, where could i order a spare motor? 

BTW, i'm running the device on 230V not 110V like in UK, could that have an impact on longevity? 

Cheers, 

Mark
Estonia


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## Bero

Blue Chip - The UK is also 230v.....well 240v max.

It sounds to me like the brushes. I would follow the guide and remove them for a look, it costs you nothing to do this.

I don't think you can buy replacement motors....well not ones marketed for this purpose. You could remove the motor and look for identifying marks and google to find one (maybe).

But being the most expensive part of the tool it may be cheaper buying a new one...and getting the new warranty with it.


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## stefstef

Goodmorning guys,

Does anyone of you know where I can find a shaft of DAS6-pro?
Yesterday I had a small accident and the shaft was broken
Here some pics:


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## james vti-s

Ouch! I think you Might need a new machine. But I don't know for certain.


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## stefstef

There is not a shaft as a spare part available?


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## stefstef

Today a friend of mine fix it by replacing a new screw!
The machine is working excellent.
So from now on, I have again two polishers in my warehouse!


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## Andy from Sandy

If you are using the machine or any machine professionally it is worth changing the brushes once a year. As they wear so they will get hotter and hotter. If the commutator is exposed then see if you can clean out the old carbon.

On a lot of machines, thinking wood working routers here, it is not necessary to dismantle the machine first, the brushes are captured by a single screw on each side for ease of changing.

After changing the brushes it is worth running the machine at a moderate speed with no load to allow them to bed in a little.


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## stefstef

I use this polisher 2-3 times per year and NOT professionally.
I havent changed the brushes yet .


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## csapoa

*Screw falling out*

If anyone could help me...

There is a screw under the bearing, which doesn't hold the rotating part any more. I replaced it with a new screw, holds perfect, but when I start working with it, it comes loose again. So I assume the thread is gone in the shaft. can I buy a new shaft somewhere?

This is exactly the same screw that was broken on the pictures of stefstef.

Your help is much appreciated!


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## wee man

Try some thread lock. Or get a local engineering works to run a tap down it to clean the threads. If they are badly worn you may have to drill out and rethread to next size up; before you do check the bolt head will still fit.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## jas_racing

I know this is an older thread but having replaced the bearings in my DAS-6 today and them putting up a bit of a fight I thought I'd expand upon the instructions above with my solution, in case anyone else has similar struggles!

Mine wouldn't budge 'manually' so I knocked up a little puller using some 25mm x 5mm stainless steel flat bar, a couple of M6 set-crews and a 5/16 UNF set-screw with matching plain nut:










The centre hole is drilled 8.5mm dia to clear the 5/16 UNF x 50mm set screw and the outer two holes drilled and tapped M6 on 37mm centres.

Assembled and ready to go:










The 5/16 UNF screw threads into the centre boss, the nut 'locks' it off then the M6 screws are wound in to gently pull the bearings out:



















Out!:



















Curiously, the new bearings slid in much easier than the old ones came out, so I smeared some locking compound around the outer races to keep them in place. All done:










Hope this is of help to some


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