# Evoque door repair plus using spectrometer.



## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Not your average smart repair. But was a returning customer, drivers door was damaged as you will see in pictures. As a few seem to asking about using a spectrometer. As weve just had a complete new paint system installed from spies hecker, which included a spectometer, i thought id show how it is used, and works in way of colour matching.

Door in question, its bigger than we normally repair as we are a smart repair centre but customer requested we repaired it as he has had work done by us in the past and was always happy with end result.




Couple of pics of dent removed using pdr rods, to save removing door pad.


Few more stages of repair, taken back to bare metal prior to applying filler.


Part off the door was then polished prior to using spectrometer to scan paint colour.


Paint has to be polished so its clean and can scan paint correctly, as this is a solid colour landrover 867 fuji white, but would need to be done on any colour.

Plugged into paint computer reading to read what ive just scanned.

Above spies hecker 480 waterbase system will be used on cr plus system.

Above painted reading on colour dialog, type in make ie landrover, and colour code as shown above. Needs to be set on solid colour.

Above shows variants for that colour, this is a single shade on our system which is why you can only see one shade.

Above is the colour match, left is what ive just scanned, right is from database, it has to be as close to ten as you can get, as you can see it reads 9.86 which would bwe ok to blend, but on bottom left of picture you can see value after shading is 10.00 so as you can see it will shade it for you giving you the closest and best match.

Value after shading is ten, so i intend not to blend this colour as i can keep it in the one door.


this is to finalize the mix you would then continue to next screen and mix paint. 

Just a pic of the spies hecker mixing scheme 480 waterbase, which most colours will cover in 1.5 coats. apply one full wet coat, then drop coat straight into it while its wet, or mix as spot repair and use as you would solvent base ie apply a coat dry it, apply a coat dry it. Havent finished this job yet so ill post up more pics of it and the paint mixing process, spraying process.


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## DaveDesign (May 6, 2008)

Great thread this, Many thanks for posting


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## andyrst (Apr 6, 2009)

Great info Andy, how do you find spies clearcoats? what ones you using?


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

What was cost of system if you dont mind me asking ? Does spectrometer allways work or is it only for certain colours ? I imagine a tri stage pearl would be awkward with it but looks a great bit of kit for most colours


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## Graeme1 (Dec 9, 2006)

I took loads of pics today at work about using a spectro to upload to show people. 

Did Fuji white on a freelander last week, one shade and it looked **** on the spray out so spectro came out.


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## supernova-dw (Apr 26, 2014)

Some very fancy looking kit you have there! Makes me feel stuck in the dark ages! Look forward to seeing the finished result.


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Scoobycarl said:


> What was cost of system if you dont mind me asking ? Does spectrometer allways work or is it only for certain colours ? I imagine a tri stage pearl would be awkward with it but looks a great bit of kit for most colours


No don't mind mate. Total cost for this install was around £15k spectrometer was £3.500, we didn't get a colour index. So that's why we have the spectro, works on all colours, with three stage you scan it, then on colour dialog you have to put in make and colour code and it will match it even with the ground coat.:thumb:


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

andyrst said:


> Great info Andy, how do you find spies clearcoats? what ones you using?


Thanks mate. Were using spies 8035 clear for full panels, lays down really easy just a grip coat followed by one full coat. Any smart repairs we use smart express clear. Spies polishes really easy even with it being used as an express clear. :thumb:


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Graeme1 said:


> I took loads of pics today at work about using a spectro to upload to show people.
> 
> Did Fuji white on a freelander last week, one shade and it looked **** on the spray out so spectro came out.


Should post your pics up mate, be good to see. Know what you mean luckily this one was kept in the one door other wise it would of been blended into adjacent panels. :thumb:


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

supernova-dw said:


> Some very fancy looking kit you have there! Makes me feel stuck in the dark ages! Look forward to seeing the finished result.


Thanks mate we've only had this system about a month, was using max Meyer before. Just finishing it will post pics up tonight. :thumb:


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

£18.5K and that's just to allow the correct colour to be mixed ....... 
And people wonder how and why the cost of good job can be justified and how and why cheap jobs turn out looking cheap.


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## jack-c (Oct 21, 2012)

Great thread, look forward to the next stage.


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

squiggs said:


> £18.5K and that's just to allow the correct colour to be mixed .......
> And people wonder how and why the cost of good job can be justified and how and why cheap jobs turn out looking cheap.


Exactly mate. Just ordered two binders and three tinters that was just over £700 and that's with our discount.


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Above is repair all done, finished off with P180 paint edges sanded with P320 surrounding area flatted with P500 as a key for the primer to stick to.

Masked and etch primer applied over baremetal ready for three coats of de-beer 2k primer.

2K primer applied will be dried via infa-red lamp, three coats applied left for about twenty mins between coats.

Guide coat applied this is just a powdered guide coat.

Lower part blocked with P320, as you can see guide coat has been removed this is just to aid rubbing down to highlight any imperfections highs or lows. 

Completely blocked with P320 as you can see guide coat has been removed with flatting showing repair is fine. If your ever unsure what a repair will look like when its painted, spray some solvent degreaser over it look down it, as it will make primer look like its been painted, and will give you an idea of what it will look like painted.

Guide coated ready to be flatted with P500.

Flatted with P500, surrounding area will be grey scotched wet with farecla g-matt to aid keying paint.

This pic is just to show the swage lines i will be using to mask upto.

masked degreased and ready for paint.

This is where we will clear coating to using a swage line, masking tape has been folded over, so it lifts slightly when pressure from spraygun hits it, making it so you dont get a hard edge.

Just a pic of the paint being weighed and mixed, only needed 100 grams for this.

just a pic of mixing and how its shows tinters we need to use.


Iwata lph 80 spraygun being used to apply colour, spraying pressure will be around one bar.

Second piece of folded masking tape applied to lower swage line, reason for this is when we apply colour it can go near it, if we just based and clear coated upto second swage it may not polish properly causing a line to show. will then be removed prior to clear coating.

Two coats of colour applied, dried via infa-red lamp for ten mins. Then checked with a 3m sun gun to make sure its covered properly.

Masking tape being removed from lower swage line which i mentioned in previous pic why we use it.

This is masking edge we will be clear coating upto.



Clear coated and being dried via infa-red lamp for twenty mins, one half coat of clear, followed by one full wet coat.



Above has been flatted and polished just a pic to show reflection.



Above is the end result just needs to be valeted and cleaned.


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## jack-c (Oct 21, 2012)

Great attention to detail, looks superb. No doubt the customer will be over the moon with that


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## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

nice work, that looks excellent


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## Scoobycarl (Aug 13, 2011)

Andyb0127 said:


> No don't mind mate. Total cost for this install was around £15k spectrometer was £3.500, we didn't get a colour index. So that's why we have the spectro, works on all colours, with three stage you scan it, then on colour dialog you have to put in make and colour code and it will match it even with the ground coat.:thumb:


Blimey sounds really good mate ! I like the idea of it shading the colour you choose for you ? Would save having to tint and spray out cards for an hour lol


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## SteveTDCi (Feb 8, 2006)

Great post, thanks


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

Good write up, fantastic system you have there and looks a really good job done. Did you use rods to work the dent? As it appears some slight damage was done to the hole in the sill in the "after" pics, I'm guessing that's where a rod was inserted. Would that kind of damage be touched in by hand?


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## PaulN (Jan 17, 2008)

Great work and really interesting.

Did you have to manually enter any info like below just to point the system in the right ball park?










Again what all this info just from the scan or was it selceted manually by you?










Its so good you dont have to blend in the closest panels.... Saying that, its nice if the others need freshening up.


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Scoobycarl said:


> Blimey sounds really good mate ! I like the idea of it shading the colour you choose for you ? Would save having to tint and spray out cards for an hour lol


Thanks mate.
Know what you mean, I've spent time tinting colours and doing spray outs. At least with this it matches it for you. :thumb:


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

rich9 said:


> Good write up, fantastic system you have there and looks a really good job done. Did you use rods to work the dent? As it appears some slight damage was done to the hole in the sill in the "after" pics, I'm guessing that's where a rod was inserted. Would that kind of damage be touched in by hand?


Yes mate That was where we used a pdr rod. After it was painted we actually flatted it etch primed it and painted it. As touching it up even tho it doesn't show probably would of ended up corroding in time. :thumb:


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

PaulN said:


> Great work and really interesting.
> 
> Did you have to manually enter any info like below just to point the system in the right ball park?
> 
> ...


You scan the colour three times with the spectro, but I do it on the panel im painting so I get the best colour match I can. As no point in scanning a bonnet if its been painted before as it may be slightly of shade.
You then plug spectro into computer, only thing you need to enter is manufacturers make, and paint code. Then colour search it will bring up closest match, and shade its then down to you which one you choose it always has to.be the one that's closest to ten or if highest match is 9.65 it will mostly shade it for you and as close to ten as it can get. On the screen with the colour showing one on left is the target colour you've just scanned one on right is from database, so it will shade colour for you to as close as database one as it can get. But we do have another option on computer where we have all car manufacturers and models, which it will tell you the most used shade for that year of manufacture. But for us its easier to just spectrometer it for a better colour match. :thumb:


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

Andyb0127 said:


> Yes mate That was where we used a pdr rod. After it was painted we actually flatted it etch primed it and painted it. As touching it up even tho it doesn't show probably would of ended up corroding in time. :thumb:


Well a top job done then. Nice to some places maintain a high standard. I'm petrified if I have to ever have any damage repaired that it won't be good enough. At least there is one place I know now even if it's far away!


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## enc (Jan 25, 2006)

Great read thanks for posting. 
I'd be interested to see some metallic paint work that's been matched with this system. 
Partner had her zafira painted a few months ago ... 3rd time remedial work and this time I really can't see where the paint meets. Guess the body shop must be using this system.


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## enc (Jan 25, 2006)

love this paint system thread. 

Would you be prepared or have you ever posted an in depth spot repair thread on DW?

I have played about doing odd bits of spraying over the years but am usually left disappointed with the results. 

Would love to see the full process from start to finish including, preparation, sanding, filling priming, painting, etc etc. 

I realise it is a time consuming process especially taking photos at the same time but feel it would be a well received and valuable resource on DW.


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## Rowe (Jul 4, 2013)

that's amazing!


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

enc said:


> love this paint system thread.
> 
> Would you be prepared or have you ever posted an in depth spot repair thread on DW?
> 
> ...


Of course. No problem at all sure it would benefit dw members to have a more in-depth guide as reference to look at. :thumb:


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## enc (Jan 25, 2006)

Andyb0127 said:


> Of course. No problem at all sure it would benefit dw members to have a more in-depth guide as reference to look at. :thumb:


Fantastic, look forward to it Andy :thumb:


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