# Cookeh goes shedding.... in a 107..



## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Evening,

Got offered my sisters 56 plate Pug 107 for free on the basis that it was utterly filthy inside, the paint was in bad condition and it was 20k overdue a service. She was going to PX it until the offer was £200. The plan now is I use it to cut down my commuting fuel cost (for those that don't know my main car is an 850 T5 that gets a whopping 27mpg on my commute).

Anyway, without further ado, I present to you the hateful shoebox. This car will not be named, it does not deserve personification.

nsf by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
ns by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
nsr by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

It is, without a doubt, the worst car I have ever driven or been driven in. I've owned it for two days. I hate it.

The 3cyl 1.0 engine is utterly gutless, requiring constant downshifting to maintain progress on even the slightest of gradients - even at 70mph on the motorway, slight incline and you lose 5mph immediately. In neutral the whole car vibrates, and the noise out of such a small engine is frankly ridiculous - it is far louder than anything I've owned and rattlier than a diesel.

The clutch has a ridiculous bite point, less than 2cm from the top of the clutch pedals travel - which is why, combined with a lack of a footrest, the typical clutch life in these cars is about 15k. Pathetic.

Anything about 50mph deafens you with road noise as the 3mm thick interior carpet is quite literally the only sound insulation on the floorpan. You can actually see this in a later picture, where the carpet is starting to wear through as it presses against a frame rail.

On the subject of ergonomics, there isn't any. Seat backs can be adjusted up and down in a small range, and the seat slides back and forth but thats it. The steering wheel, like the backs, can be adjusted slightly up and down but does not feature telescopics. Getting comfortable in this car for anything more than an hours drive is impossible if you're a normal sized human. The seats themselves have no bolsters and no support and are actually the most uncomfortable seat I've been in.

You'd think this would be bad enough, but no, my particular example only features 2 speakers located in the dash, which are not powerful enough to drown out the road noise but are terrible enough to make you wish they weren't there anyway. All this, despite being the middle-spec option! I'd hate to wonder what the base spec has. We have no A/C, no glovebox lid and manual mirrors, but at least we have an aux in and 4 cupholders; every cloud and all that.

As I'm sure you can see, it is truly worthless. In terms of the exterior, there is that aforementioned paint condition.

On top of numerous instances of fading (its not single stage, weirdly), etching, and watermarks, this car has been scraped multiple times. Once it even knocked a wall down - seriously. The steel wheels are also badly corroded, but I'll take the blame for this. I painted them as a present for my sis 4 years ago, but after stripping back the old paint I never used an etch primer, using normal primer instead... Whoopsie :lol:.

Corroded steelies example by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
osf scrape by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
osr scrape by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Paint defect by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Bad bumper fitment by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

It has had a boot leak for years now, literally years. This recently got 'fixed' in a recall last Mon - which apparently means I can't wash it for a while. Bugger. I used " ' " as I highly doubt this will actually fix the leak, given there are at least 5 common leak sources fro the boot alone on these badly designed shoeboxes.

The exterior, however, was not the worst part. No no no, that belongs to the interior. This car was used as a daily driver by someone not interested in cars and who happened to own a 40kg Old English Sheepdog. The backseats, where Jasper (the dog) lived, were covered in dog hair, the carpets and seats saturated with mud and sand, not to mention all the nose art on the windows. In fact, the interior was so bad it will get an entire post of its own, and after 2 days its still not completely done!

In terms of plans for this thing, I don't really want to spend a penny on it. Going to give it the service its long overdue (£52 for oil, filter, air filter, and spark plugs!!), and clean it within an inch of its life but really that is all I want to do. :detailer:

I *might* upgrade the lousy dash speakers, just to maintain some degree on sanity on my commute, but we'll see. I *might* fix the broken mirror adjustment, if I can be arsed or if anyone actually knows of a fix. Beyond that, I'm just going to track fuel expenditure, how much I'm saving and and just fix things as they break.


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## micksea (May 27, 2018)

You seem to be on the fence with this one,could you possibly make up your mind weather you like the car or not......we need to be sure where you stand


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## rob267 (Nov 27, 2015)

what a thread.
I love your hatred of this car.

I also own a volvo and could only imagine driving a little beauty like your yellow beast

You may well grow fonder of it?????

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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Well, that's definitely a project 

Looking forward to the updates on this :thumb:


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Lol. Great read. Looking forward to the updates!!

Cheers

Cooks

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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

That’s in better condition than my daughters 107
She’s managed to run it into the ground in 2 years; I stopped cleaning it after she spilled an entire full sugar coke from McDonald’s in there and couldn’t be bothered to try and mop it up. It’s probably held together with ants. 

But hers is (was) quite nippy with just me in it, but that was just in town, no A roads or Motorway. Plugs and injector cleaner may bring it back to life a bit. 


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## Naddy37 (Oct 27, 2005)

I’m suprised they offered her £200!


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

I feel your pain, when I worked at Citroen I had to take a C1 on a course, usually a nice hydro suspension C5 or C6 but not this time, only went to bridge water and back but it was so exhausting driving it on the motorway I ended up having to pull into a layby and have a kip on the way home. 

My ears were bleeding and my mind, back and legs were just shattered in pain.


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## djberney (Oct 2, 2016)

My wife had one of these for about 8 years and now has the newer C1. I thought hers was bad but it wasn't to this level. I refused to do the inside as the carpets never came clean. I try to keep on top of the new one with rubber matting as well as carpet mats but it still looks like a skip that's had a dead stripper in it with glitter everywhere.
If you have to change the clutch the 'fix' involves a larger friction plate.


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

rob267 said:


> You may well grow fonder of it?????


If, at any point, I show signs of that please have me put down immediately.

Righto, onto the interior of this heap. You may recall I said it was filthy? Yes, well, that and some.

We'll start with the general crap and detritus in the stowage bins:
Stowage bin dirt 2 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Stowage bin dirt by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Dirty glovebox by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Now I know what you're all thinking, it's not that bad, I'm just being a drama queen. Well, scroll on.

Next up we'll go for the centre console:
Dirty dash vents by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Dirty stereo by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Dirty centre console by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Nasty handbrake trim by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
I believe Tosh mentioned a sugary experience with Coke? Yes, this heap is familiar with that too.

Dirty speedo by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Dirty knob by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Mmm, skin and human slime.
Dirty indicator crap by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Slime? Make-up? Something else?

Okay, getting a bit worse, floormats and seats next:
nsf mat by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rear seat hinge dirt 3 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Is that sand? I hate sand.
Rear bench dirt by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
More sand, and dog hair. Great. I hate sand AND I hate dog hair.
Rear bench dirt 2 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
More? Lovely.
Rear bench dirt 3 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Again? What is this, a BOGOF offer?
At this point I elected to remove the rear bench (rear uprights slightly trickier, couldn't be bother in the rain).
Rear seat hinge dirt 2 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Sex? In this car? About this car? Either way, just no.
Rear seatbelts dirty 2 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
20p, wahey! This car has cost me -£0.20 so far, saving money already :lol:
Rear seatbelts dirty by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
More sand. Top stuff. Can go to the beach without ever leaving my drive... if this heap ever deserved to be parked in the drive that is. But it belongs on the street, with all the other trash.
Dirty seat sides by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Quick trip to the front, with more sand and dust. Excellent.
Boogers by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
What on earth is this? Both sides of the seat? Looks like boogers or ear wax? I did actually confront my sis about this. She's adamant it wasn't her, told her to check her fiancee's seat and see if its his. I mean, it's someones right?! 

Fair enough, plenty of you have probably seen worse and detailed worse, but this is the nastiest I've dealt with. What I wanted to do was park it on an enemies drive and torch it, what I actually did was break out some APC, some mf cloths, a magic eraser and the trusty Vax 2000 that I adopted off my parents when they got a Dyson 8 years ago - the Vax is almost as old as me, still works flawlessly.

What followed next was about two hours of vacuuming, and about an hour on cleaning the door cards (or is that just doors in this case?) and centre console. I haven't gotten round to actually cleaning the carpets or seats with upholstery cleaner yet. This Saturday I think, weather permitting.

Onto the afters then, shall we? First up, the floors - easy enough with a vacuum, upholstery brush and some APC for the pedals:
Cleaned osf by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Cleaned nsf by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Cleaned nsr by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Cleaned osr by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
See in the area beneath the accelerator pedal? Where the carpet is a lighter shade? That is the aforementioned floorpan/frame rail wearing through the 3mm carpet.

Next up, that rear bench area. Again, lots of vacuuming, all 8 sections of a folded mf and a whole lot of APC. I found a small nylon brush to be excellent for the areas around the seatbelts:

Clean rear floorpan by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Clean rear seatbelts 3 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rear seatbelts clean by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Going to attack this with some Hammerite to hide and protect the rust a bit, as well as adding a bit of wax to the metal in a pointless bid to protect that.

Penultimately the console area and doorcards (doors?), again copious vacuuming, plenty mfs and APC:
Clean doorcards by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Cleaned dash vents by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Cleaned stereo by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Clean seatbelt by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Clean centre console 2 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Clean handbrake trim by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Lastly, that booger infested seat? Yeah, couldn't leave that until Saturday. Halfords Upholstery Cleaner, stiff bristled brush and the VAX dealt with it:
No more boogers by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Clean seat sides by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Definitely not perfect, but not a biohazard anymore and doesn't quite reek as much anyway. Needs a protectant, probably Autoglyms VRT on Sat. We also knocked the first little 'project' off in the form of the gaitor. Was collapsed and flopping way down on the frame:
Collapsed gaitor by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Turns out it was missing a little rubber sleeve (sitting in the centre console oddly), which helps grip it and stop it sliding. Put that back on the stick, removed and re-installed the gaiter and voila:
Gaiter fixing by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Gaiter fixed by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Okay, it looks ridiculous - massive wide gearknob abruptly ending and then a tiny skinny gaitor starting, but nothing I can do about that. Just another crap bit of design.

Roll on Saturday so I can get in the car without overalls... :lol:


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## Steve_6R (Jun 9, 2014)

Strip everything but the driver's seat out, take it to the nurburgring, and kill it in style.

You know you want to!

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## Jack R (Dec 15, 2014)

Love how much you hate this, now subscribed!


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## H-M3 (Jul 13, 2006)

I say clean it up and flog it and get a better run around:thumb::car:


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Well that’s looking significantly better - value must be increased now :thumb:


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## percymon (Jun 27, 2007)

Looking a lot smarter for your few hours work :thumb:

I only rode in the Aygo version of these, once - all i remember was the engine and road noise, and the fact everything felt like it was made from old baked bean cans and recycled lego bricks. But they do offer cheap and reliable (yes, I did say reliable for a French car) motors for those doing short commutes or as a second small town car/runaround.


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## The Cueball (Feb 8, 2007)

feeling the love... looks much better already..

:thumb:


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## sshooie (May 15, 2007)

My daughters boyfriend is on his 3rd, he's @ uni and doesn't care about cars as log as he can fit his musical instruments in. Yes, he can fit a double bass in.

So about 4 months ago he asked me to help him find a new car and as much as I tried given his budget he insisted on it being an Aygo or gAygo as his friends have added the letter 'g from Halfords.

After looking at some real ****boxes I finally found him this one and he loved it, it drives much as you describe and had just had the clutch and brakes replaced. It even has alloys, A/C, privacy glass and built in TomTom

I've seen it since as he's back @ uni but I'm sure it will look similar to your before pics.


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## WHIZZER (Oct 25, 2005)

inside looks a lot better


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## Dazednconfused (Oct 10, 2017)

Honestly, this thread has me laughing out loud!
Keep up the good work, there is a car in there somewhere:thumb:


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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

Apparently, you can fit extra door frame rubbers to make it quieter; found this on a YouTube channel somewhere about an Aygo or 107; may make it quieter on the motorway






The link for the seals no longer works; I don't know where to get them.

I would also get the thickest cheapest carpet mats you can, which will help with the noise. Or Rubber the. carpet on top. Stick an old duvet in the boot as well.

Looking at the back seat pics, can you stick some cheap Dynamat there?

That is a proper turnaround, at least it's not a biohazard now.

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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

percymon said:


> Looking a lot smarter for your few hours work :thumb:
> 
> I only rode in the Aygo version of these, once - all i remember was the engine and road noise, and the fact everything felt like it was made from old baked bean cans and recycled lego bricks. But they do offer cheap and reliable (yes, I did say reliable for a French car) motors for those doing short commutes or as a second small town car/runaround.


Reliable because it's a Toyota; perfect first car that's difficult to kill!

My neighbor has a C1; I can't believe how thin the metal panels are, even the glass is thin. No wonder it feels like a tin can, because it basically is.

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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

The Toyotas are actually much better made and come with more in the way of refinements (actual insulation and underlay for a start), which is why they were more expensive to start with. If you thought those were horrible then Im sure you can only begin to imagine what I'm enduring!

@tosh, thanks very much for the link - will have to see if I can find something very cheap that does a similar job. Regarding dynamat or even bitumen tape etc, I'm sure they would work but I honestly don't intend on spending anything on this car - I will just suck it up and think of the fuel savings! Duvet isn't a bad shout though, have a few of those laying around and I'm sure the fiancee won't mind... What you don't know and all that 

I got a bit more time to work on it today before the heavens opened. I was still trying to make it safe to enter without a hazmat suit at this point, but I'd say its now fairly respectable. Further maintenance cleans of the interior will only improve it, and if I'm honest I literally couldn't give a toss about this car, definitely not enough to get it properly 'concours'.

First things first I figured the sparks plugs needed changing, my sister had been advised of this at a service some 200000 miles ago but never did anything about it - despite me offering to do it for her. As it turns out, they weren't terrible. Gap was only 33% larger than spec... Removal requires unclipping the airbox (some 4 clips or so, then removing two squeeze clips), revealing your three DI coils with a single 10mm bolt. Spark plugs themselves are your fairly standard 16mm thread. Some pics of old vs new and the three old ones.

Spark plugs old vs new by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Spark plugs old by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

The car runs a little better now, less dag-dag-y on start up and a fraction quieter throughout the rev-range. Still very unrefined but better. Can only hope it gives even more mpg to cover its cost.

Next up it was onto that interior. The rear bench was obviously removed previously, so I tackled that last night inside (thankfully I have an understanding and car-sympathetic fiancee!). This was by far the worst seat in the car, so it got a vacuum, a healthy scrub with upholstery cleaner and finally a steamclean. Came out fairly well I think.

Couple of reminders of the before...
Rear bench dirt 4 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rear bench dirt 3 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rear bench staining by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Then some 50/50s and finals:
Rear bench 50/50 vacuumed by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rear bench steam cleaned by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rear bench steam cleaned 3 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Much better methinks. The rest of the car wasn't so bad and was unfortunately confined to the outsides so I decided against using the steamer (too much effort being wired and not being able to leave the seats by a radiator to aid drying). That meant a slightly different approach. Copious vacuuming, followed by a huge scrub with plenty of upholstery shampoo before vacuuming out the liquid and giving it a final dry down with some microfibres.

Rear bench upper 5050 2 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rear bench upper 5050 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Apologies for image quality phone camera had a hard time focusing due to the pattern, and I'm a lousy photographer!
Rear bench uppers after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Passenger seat after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Drivers seat after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

And here is the dirt from just the headrest on the drivers seat... Scrubbed with a microfibre as I was curious just nasty it was.
Drivers seat base dirt by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

So now that the seats are acceptable, minus some loose fibres, it was time to move on to the door jambs. I still can't wash the exterior (apparently), so this is as close as I can get. Quick clean with some APC, a soft bristled detailing brush paired with a small nylon brush, and some microfibres later:

osf after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
osf after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
osr edge dirt by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Area under this seal was grim, but came up well. Oddly there are some tar spots in there, and I'm fresh out of tar remover. Will get that at a later date.
osr after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
nsr after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
nsf after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
nsf after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

These were then treated with a spray sealant to try and keep them cleanish for a bit longer.


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## Top Banana (Oct 26, 2010)

You cant hate it that much, your adding value with every area you clean, who doesn't like a little french beauty :lol:


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## Naddy37 (Oct 27, 2005)

Crikey, what a turnaround on that disgusting interior.

Come on, you’ve gotta start to love the little thing, I mean, it’s yellow!!


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## ibiza55 (Feb 22, 2008)

Lovely Jubbly, starting to add value to it.


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

Cookeh said:


> Duvet isn't a bad shout though, have a few of those laying around and I'm sure the fiancee won't mind... What you don't know and all that


Yeah, cos she'll find a duvet in the boot and really believe your excuse of sound deadening!😂


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## ade33 (Jun 4, 2008)

I'm admiring your dedication to something you dislike so much  It's good to see it getting some overdue attention though, and looking much better for it. That yellow was a dodgy colour, but not as bad as the Citroen equivalent, which was a close match to baby-sick.

I had a Citroen C1 for 100000 miles - singularly the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. Not a single thing ever went wrong on it, even the clutch was factory when I moved it on at about 110000 miles.

Lack of sound deadening and leaks are probably their biggest day-to-day issues. If it leaks into the boot the third brake light or light cluster seals are the usual suspects.

The clutch problem was put down to early cars having a 180mm diameter clutch, and it not being up to the task. March 2009 and onwards had a 190mm unit and they are much harder to kill. Unfortunately they had gained a reputation by then, and it continues to this day. The bite point is like that - they all do that guv. There should be just under 30mm of play at the top of the pedal travel if it's adjusted properly, but I'm guessing you won't be too fussed by that :lol:

Unfortunately (for you!) if you keep changing the oil it'll just keep going. The time to sell it is if the timing chain starts to get noisy.

I loved mine to pieces.

Oh, speakers. The factory 4" in the dash are, as you say, criminally bad. Change them for ANYTHING else and, even with the stock radio, it'll make a huge difference. On the way home from buying mine I had to stop in a car stereo place and buy some new ones, they really are that bad!

The steering wheel stalks can give trouble, if one day the headlights don't work or the indicators play up - chances are it'll be the stalk that's duff.


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## micksea (May 27, 2018)

can"t wait to see the outside of this brought up to the same standard as the inside,any updates?


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## Maxx? (Aug 1, 2007)

This is a fantastic start to a perfect love story! 

You have made a massive difference to the car already. I'm looking forward to seeing what you work on next :thumb:


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## weedougall78 (Nov 4, 2017)

Excellent work, these are my favourite type of thread, seeing a shed being turned around!

This has Hollywood love story written all over it, in the end you'll drive off into the sunset to live happily ever after


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## virgiltracey (Apr 19, 2017)

I had a little giggle driving through town earlier, I saw a small, yellow 107 and it instantly reminded me of your hatred for the thing... better yet this particular one was plastered in 107 branded "go faster" decals, with a HUGE 107 logo along each side and lots of smaller 107 decals all over the car. Really quite funny to see someone on the opposite end of the hate spectrum to you!


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Took a while, between waiting for the sealant to cure and for a long enough gap in the weather, but I'm pleased to announce the crapbox finally has a clean exterior(ish!).

Still lots to do, especially with regards to some weird contaminants (more on that shortly) and the many paint defects. Could do with a proper LSP too, only got CarPlans No1 Super Gloss on it at the minute; though I have been very impressed with its performance over winter on both my 850 and the fiancees Rolla.

The car was filthy, so I jumped straight into pre-cleaning with Power Maxed TFR at 10%. There was no protection on this car so I was far from worried about stripping LSP at this conc. I am, as I always am, impressed by just how effective TFR is. Some before and afters of various parts pre- and post-TFR:

ns by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
NS after TFR by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

nsr by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rear after TFR by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Arches on these were properly minging. Still are to be honest, really need a good scrub and some tar remover - never seen so much tar! That will have to wait for another day, however. Not least because I'm fresh out of tar remover at the minute.

Rear arch preclean by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
OSR after TFR by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Front arch preclean by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
NSF after TFR by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Petrol cap preclean by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Petrol cap cleaned by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

With that done I applied a coat of snowfoam - Auto Finesse's Avalanche to be precise - so that I could get into the gutters, around the lights and panel gaps in greater detail. If I'm honest I don't like Avalanche. I don't find it has much cleaning power and its cling time isn't particularly impressive (possibly because unless I double up the concentration its pretty thin).

Obligatory foamed picture:
Snowfoamed by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

and then the cleaned gutters. Could do with tar remover here of all places too to get them perfect.
Gutters cleaned by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

After that it was on to a contact wash. I actually didn't use 2BM on this occasion, opting for a single bucket with a couple of mitts (one for top half, one for bottom) and rinsing the mitt as I went along. I figured that after TFR and a snowfoam there wouldn't be much left to do any damage, as inspired by the Forensic Detailing Channel. What was left, however, was an awful lot of contamination:

Contaminants by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

There was also this weird contaminant pictured below. I tried clay, tar remover (what little I had!), and a glue/sap remover. None of them touched it. Any ideas what it is or how to remove it? Its all over the front bumper.

Weird bumper residue by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

To tackle the contaminants I used the tiny bit of tar remover I had left, as well as a fallout remover, then clay. Here's some bleeding shots:

Bonnet fallout by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
OSR door fallout by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
NSR quarter fallout by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

For a bit of a giggle I also applied it to one of the corroded wheels:
wheel fallout by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

After all that, drying, and using the aforementioned sealant, I was left with something sort of respectable.

Cleaned and fallout wheels by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Post spray sealant by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

The paint on this thing is dreadful. Just the quality from the factory for a start, colour match between bumpers and door is shocking; the bonnet and wings are different shades, despite both being factory and original; the paint all round is oxidising and fading to a pretty high degree, which is not at all commensurate with a car this young - heck my 850 (twice the age!) still has no issues with either of those! Once cleaned I could also properly see all the damage inflicted to it. Guess I need to invest in some sick-up coloured touch-up paint...

NSR arch dmg by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
IMG_20190311_151413 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
IMG_20190311_151436 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Untitled by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
OSF scuff by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Wing mirror scuff by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Wing stonechip by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
There are 4 of these stonechips that are starting to rust quite badly. Must do something about those at some point, as cheaply as possible of course!

I also saw this bit of contamination on the roof, again I cant figure out what it is and nothing I have touched it. Any ideas? It's textured, sits up over the surface so isn't clearcoat damage I don't think?

Weird roof residue by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr


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## djberney (Oct 2, 2016)

Have you tried asking your sister what she might have spilt on it?

Great job turning that around. Some dulux on the wheels and it's good to go.


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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

If it’s sitting on the surface, and you can get your nail under it, try a magic eraser and some polish afterwards (by hand). 

If tar remover hasn’t done anything or softened it, could be glue of some kind?


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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

Wheel trim covers will make it look a lot better if you don’t want to spray the steel wheels. But a can of primer and wheel paint would probably be cheaper. 

If you can find a red side door, you can make it look like the in-betweeners car. 


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Going to be spraying the wheels, will work out about a fiver cheaper than the cheapest trims I can find. Never liked wheel trims either, especially the cheap ones. They just look so tacky. 

Regarding that weird stain, I'm thinking it might be a glue as you say. I can t get a nail under it but it is definitely raised above the surface. Sister says she hasn't spilt anything on it and seems to recall it being there when she bought it 8 years ago.


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## AnthonyIRL (Oct 8, 2014)

It's threads like this that I enjoy most on this forum.

Good progress so far dude I'm sure you'll make a top job of it.


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## nbray67 (Mar 22, 2012)

How dirty is your sister??? :lol::lol::lol:

In all seriousness, that's some proper abused car right there, and I agree with you, they were definitely bogies on the seat.

The only good thing about them is that they were being wiped rather than eaten!!

Cracking turnaround indeed.

When are you going to admit that you've got a soft spot for it?


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## jay_bmw (Jan 28, 2010)

loving this thread, also - look at the lateral support in those seats!! 









im suprised you dont need a chiropractor after each commute!


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

I do. The position of the brackets for the fixed headrests digs into the base of my neck, forcing me to jut my head forwards, and the fact that the sides of the seat are curved (so the profile is like a C) forces me to round your shoulders and hunch forward. As you say, complete lack of lateral support too so you slide around in corners (at 20mph, any faster and the car understeer and body rolls to the extent it makes you think it will topple). 
Bloody terrible design for a seat. Deeply uncomfortable.

I'm half tempted to put up a little review of the turd, if that's something people might be interested in. Can't promise it won't get a bit ranty though :lol:.


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## jay_bmw (Jan 28, 2010)

Cookeh said:


> I do. The position of the brackets for the fixed headrests digs into the base of my neck, forcing me to jut my head forwards, and the fact that the sides of the seat are curved (so the profile is like a C) forces me to round your shoulders and hunch forward. As you say, complete lack of lateral support too so you slide around in corners (at 20mph, any faster and the car understeer and body rolls to the extent it makes you think it will topple).
> Bloody terrible design for a seat. Deeply uncomfortable.
> 
> I'm half tempted to put up a little review of the turd, if that's something people might be interested in. Can't promise it won't get a bit ranty though :lol:.


Can you do a youtube vlog - it would be hilarious with your clarksonisims :thumb:


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

jay_bmw said:


> Can you do a youtube vlog - it would be hilarious with your clarksonisims :thumb:


Maybe, just maybe.

Anyway, found a spare 40 mins this afternoon to sort out the boot. I had previously skipped in during the interior cleaning as I didn't really have the time. I tackled the spare first, horribly rusting which is truly bizarre as the thing has never been used - I can't (or won't!) take credit for that either as when spraying them I never touched the back part and that's worse!

Wheel before by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

So APC, some car shampoo, a single large boar hair brush (yes, I need to expand my selection ) and just a little bit of water gets us something sort of clean. I then dried the wheel and put on the only sealant I have, AutoGlyms EGP.

Wheel during by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Wheel after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Whilst that was doing its 30min cure, I moved on to the boot which was in dire need of a vacuum and a scrub. The numerous boot leaks and wet-dog excursions over the years had made it a smidge mucky:

Boot filth by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Boot filth 2 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Boot filth 3 by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

In keeping with the atrocious build quality one can expect if one chooses to torture themselves in such a vehicle, you can see all the areas where the boot floor has worn away the paint, as has the tyre which can't actually be bolted down using the supplied bolt unless you leave the tool tray out. Naturally this makes perfect sense as who needs a wheel brace or even jack when changing a tyre, I mean you can just lift the car with 1 hand and swap it with the other... :speechles

So we vacuumed it. Then naturally the rubber spacers that are meant to stop the tyre wearing away the paint just detached themselves (useless). So now we have to contend with a load of old glue - and of course I have no tar remover. Copious amounts of WD40 and lots of scrubbing got it sort of presentable.

Boot after vacuum by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Tar removed by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Rubber spacers before by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Rubber spacers after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Contact adhesive was used to reattach the spacers, which themselves needed substantial cleanup (see above!), and I applied two coats of Bilt Hamber DSW (sorry Wilco!! Probably not what you had in mind when you sent me them!) just to try and give it some sort of protection from further inevitable boot leaks. I have realised that this area really needs sanding back and repainting as it's sure to start rusting soon with all those chips and worn areas. Also, anyone else find it odd the seam sealer doesnt actually cover top or bottom (as pictured) sides of the boot floor? Must have saved PSA what, 5 cents?

Boot after wax and spacer adhesive by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
DSW gloss by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

On a side note, I am very impressed by DSW. It was super easy to apply (once I had dampened the applicator), cured quickly and left an impressive amount of gloss on the one clear-coated part of the entire boot.

Next up was that aforementioned boot floor. Which has foam spacers to protect the rubber tyre from wearing but nothing to stop the paint wearing. 10/10 PSA... It was dressed with AutoGlyms Bumper and Trim gel. I hate this product, its a pain to apply and so inconsistent finish wise with poor coverage. Yet some how I still have the damn thing after two years. Can't wait to finish it so I can get some PERL or maybe splash out on some ironically named Poorboys Natural Trim Dressing.

Boot floor before by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Boot floor during by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Boot after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

It was at that point I noticed the rust bubbles appearing on the seat backs, and made the mistake of wire brushing them... Seeing it was quite bad I decided to wire brush it properly and then put a bit of Hammerite on it. I quickly learned that to get a decent finish here I would need to spray it but I don't have any and I needed to get some protection on there  It's not too bad from a distance, might get better if I use some fine grade wet dry on it and then attempt to polish the seat backs.

Seat back before by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Seat back after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Still on the seat front the covers on all four sides had started to work themselves loose somehow. Clipped them back in with ease.

Seat cover before by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
Seat cover after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

Lastly the plastic trim on the C-pillar. APC and magic eraser was my friend here. One advantage of the horribly scratchy and hard plastics is that magic eraser makes short work of cleaning them with no risk of marring.

C pillar before by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr
C pillar after by alistair.hurrell, on Flickr

And that was it for the time frame. Could have been better with the aid of some fallout remover and tar remover, but hey ho. Getting close to having the car up to standard now. Really just the wheels left and then touching up some of the paint situation. Definitely glad about that as I don't really enjoy working on this car, which is weird as I enjoy it on every other car I have access to... Guess I still haven't fallen in love with it, probably because I have to drive it too! :doublesho


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## 22rosco22 (Aug 11, 2016)

looking foward to seeing the paintwork being corrected, everything you've done so far looks mint


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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

Love this thread


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Excellent update!!! I'm loving this thread too!!

Cooks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Cracking updates. Coming on :thumb:


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## bluechimp (Dec 21, 2017)

This thing has doubled in value, you will love it soon, i can just see your affection building for it :thumb:


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

*I'm back, it's back, with even more misery. Bring tea.*

Coming up in this post: endless moaning, little bit of ranting, some mildy repressed rage.

Managed to get home slightly early today so I thought I'd look into the brake squeal that's been developing over the last few days. I initially expected pads as whilst the current ones are only 18 months or around 12000mi old they were Bargain Basement Eichers, so I grabbed a new set from ECP during their (eternal) sale.

Don't you just love it when a simple 30 minute job of changing brake pads turns into a 4 hour farce? I attribute all of this, every single second of delay, to trivial cost-cutting and bad design. Obviously, the first step in brake pad change is to jack the car up and get the wheels off. I'm not going to complain about the silly crease jacking point that inevitably gets bent by every garage who throw it on a lift or just use a flat jack pad - promise. I am definitely going to complain about having to use a 4ft breaker bar to get the lug nuts loose though, that sucked. God bless lazy fitters with air impact guns :wall:.

Anyway, car was up, bolts were loose, but would the wheel come off? Would it hell.
Okay, fair enough common problem. I'll just give it a bit of a lovetap at 3 and 9 and it will pop free? Nope.
Okay, rubber mallet? Nope.
Hmm, righto, swift kicks to to top of the wheel then? Nope.
WD40 and a repeat of the above? Nope.
2x4 and 5lb lump hammer from the back of the wheel? Nope.
Dropping it from the max jack height with nuts loosened? Yeah, no.
Driving it down the street with nuts loosened? Nope (and stupid).

Impressive, right? Who said the French surrender easily?! :lol: After an hour and a half I gave up (now who's the surrender monkey) and took it to my local garage who spend the next 30 minutes using an acetylene torch on the mating lip. Even after that it took some serious hits from a 10lb hammer to break them free. With them free I was quite surprised to see that beyond the usual corrosion mating the lip on the hub to the steel wheel, the hub had also mated itself with the back of the steel which was contributing to the sticking.

At this point I made use of their airtools to clean the hub, inner face of the wheel and that mating lip up. To be honest I had to, couldn't get the wheel to sit back flush on the hub the corrosion was that bad. The mating surfaces then got slavered in coppaslip to hopefully prevent that happening again any time soon. So, 2 hours to remove two wheels, magnificent. Would have been a proper pain in the rear if, say, I'd gotten a flat...luckily for me that came later...










You can still just about see the places the steelie had welded itself to the hub with corrosion. Eagle eyed will also notice the disk retaining screw is missing, need to find one of those.

So back at home and, onto the actual job at hand then. Internet says the caliper bolts are 13mm. I suppose they might have been once, but when I got to them they had so much corrosion on them that the 14mm head barely got on them. Broke out my rotary tool and wire wheeled them for a good little while until they started looking like a hexagon again. In their self-defense, once cleaned up, they functioned as they were meant to.

The caliper slider pins however, decided now was a good time to act up. Turns out corrosion on the caliper meant that the flat section of the slider pins was not sitting in the groove it was meant to, and so nothing stopped it spinning freely when turning the caliper bolt. Channel locks to the rescue, and the bolt came loose.










Here's the old pads and hardware. The squeal could be explained by those crusty shims, the shims being partially detached/moved, or by the rusty hardware prevent the pads from moving easily. Surprisingly my initial expectation of low pad material was wrong, with 3.5mm or so left. Still, that's hardly a lot and I can't live with a squeal so in the bin they went.










Yet more corrosion where the hardware sits. Also a possibly contributor - a definite contributor to the sticky brake on the nearside though. Wire brushed, then wheeled, and the new hardware installed:










PSA: Always buy new hardware. Costs what, £4-5 on sale at places like ECP? Saves a lot of hassle and improves longevity.










Standard, expected, new v old.










More corrosion, pot was terrible. Now this is entirely down to rubbish design. With pads installed the pad sits slightly lower than the top of the pot (you can see this in the pic with the old pads, look at where the circle of the piston pot sits). This means it is permanently exposed to water/dirt/crap - especially the caliper being mounted facing the front of the car. Genius PSA, genius. Wire wheeled, bit of coppaslip (if to do nothing but try and stop it welding itself to the shim).

With those installed, all I had to do was install the new bolts (14mm this time, odd) and repeat on the other side. Other side was slightly better, no issues with spinning slider bolts this time so this side actually took the expected 15 minutes or less :doublesho.

At this point I decided to tackle another example of cost-cutting that had started to become a real eyesore. The mudguards. For whatever reason, in their infinite infallible wisdom, PSA decided to make the mounting bracket for the mudguards from metal - but not just any metal, 1.5mm thick (apparently) mild steel which was seemingly then not given any sort of protection...:thumb:

A few months (let alone a decade) later, where once you had a shiny clean mudguard bracket you now have this:










Best part is, its an entirely visible part - its not hidden or masked in anyway whatsoever and has a real tendency to catch your (my) eye. I couldn't wire wheel it, as it would just vanish, cant replace it, and I cant even remove it as the bloody screws securing it have stripped. So, whats the next best... yes okay, the next cheapest and laziest method? Wire brush and some Hammerite.










Got another coat after this pic, and will probably get another next time I'm working on the lemon. Definitely better, not as much of an eyesore. Should really have done the retaining clips and the other screw shouldn't it? Ah well, did I mention it was a lazy approach? 

With what limited time I had left I decided to clean the windows. Now that we have a bit of sunlight in the afternoons I'd noticed that the front screen was deplorable. Covered in smudge marks and water spots....yes, really. When this heap suffers a leaky boot in winter it actually gets a frozen windscreen on the inside too (will have to find an old vid my sis sent). That, combined with no a/c, meant lots and lots of water spots. Here is the result from just the front windscreen - you don't even want to see what the rear window side looked like once all the dog nose-art had been eradicated.










And that was all for today. 30 mins into 4 hours because of cost cutting and crap design. Oh, and the flat thing I made a jibe at earlier? Happened on the way home from some errands, at least the wheel came off this time! Hooray.


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## SteveTDCi (Feb 8, 2006)

We try and avoid Eicher and Apec, they are cheap for a reason


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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

Awesome update
I’ve got to do the daughters’ brakes this year, I now know what to expect.


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## andy__d (Jun 27, 2018)

so its called "the lemon" ? ,, or is that just the Polite version of what it really gets called ?

Horror story with the brakes, but at least there were no rounded off/rusted round bolts  
And theres the rears still to do? 

disks all within wear tolerances,, or is it "there there, and round there fine" given its psa,, ?


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## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

Great work on the car, and i have no idea why the french make everything such hard work, me and a mate recently did pads and discs on his megane II and one of the disk retaining screw's was so tight it just knackered its head trying to remove it..... I was in no mood for messing about at this early stage so i said bring me the drill , I didnt re-fit another one as my fiesta doesnt even have them, the disc is held in place with the wheel nuts.


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## neilb62 (Jul 30, 2007)

This is epic, I love threads like this....

Am I generalising or is it only girls cars that tend to be this minging? :doublesho

Cars tend to be given a colour related name in our family, the would be "Pus" 

More please... :buffer:


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

SteveTDCi said:


> We try and avoid Eicher and Apec, they are cheap for a reason


Couldn't agree more. I normally go for Pagid at a minimum - went for Brembo in this instance as they came with new bolts and hardware for £2 less than getting the Pagids and then the Pagid fitting kit. I know they aren't Brembo performance pads, more their OE replacements but I definitely don't need a brake upgrade as this thing doesn't go fast enough anyway!



tosh said:


> Awesome update
> I've got to do the daughters' brakes this year, I now know what to expect.


Bring heat (no, not to torch the car).



andy__d said:


> so its called "the lemon" ? ,, or is that just the Polite version of what it really gets called ?
> 
> Horror story with the brakes, but at least there were no rounded off/rusted round bolts
> And theres the rears still to do?
> ...


It's still yet to be given a name, it gets called 3-4 different things every time I get in it - usually much more profound I'm ashamed to admit. If it ever does get a name, neilbs suggestion is a solid contender:



neilb62 said:


> Cars tend to be given a colour related name in our family, the would be "Pus"


Rears are drums and are still fine. Not terribly surprising given how little the car weighs and the fact it still has a significant front braking bias. Good point though, its rather likely the rears will also be welded onto the hubs too, balls.

Disks were indeed within spec and whilst they are definitely looking crusty its only cosmetic and there is no lip.



Christian6984 said:


> Great work on the car, and i have no idea why the french make everything such hard work, me and a mate recently did pads and discs on his megane II and one of the disk retaining screw's was so tight it just knackered its head trying to remove it..... I was in no mood for messing about at this early stage so i said bring me the drill , I didnt re-fit another one as my fiesta doesnt even have them, the disc is held in place with the wheel nuts.


Lord knows, seems like bad French design and cost-cutting is a pandemic on modern cars. Not that cost-cutting is limited to the French by any means...

In the case of this pug pile of pus (thanks neilb) the disks are held on by rust, but retaining screws do make things slightly easier to keep things in place when changing disks and reinstalled caliper brackets.



neilb62 said:


> This is epic, I love threads like this....
> 
> Am I generalising or is it only girls cars that tend to be this minging? :doublesho
> 
> More please... :buffer:


Thank you sir, rather tempted to copy across my 850 T5 thread to here as I'm not frequenting the forum(s) its on as much currently. Admittedly a different style as I actually like that car and it isn't riddled with moronic design so its not quite as rant-y/whiny/boohoo-y.

I don't think you're generalising, my Mothers car has always been a mess (yet oddly I always got blamed for it, along with my sis). You've seen the mess my sis's car was in and her current one is already getting there. My fiancees car gets pretty bad and would probably get to be minging if I didn't keep on top of it once a month. Conversely my sis's fiances car is pretty reasonable (despite doing 3x the mileage); my fathers cars have always been reasonable, and me - well, I'm on here sooo :buffer:


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## andy__d (Jun 27, 2018)

neilb62 said:


> This is epic, I love threads like this....
> 
> Am I generalising or is it only girls cars that tend to be this minging? :doublesho
> 
> ...


in general, imho your not generalising, as

All of the ex's that had cars(and thats a Few ex's) = Minging insides 
well past the "107 with no name" in a couple of cases and the outsides too,

i find its One end or the other, "minging" or "gleaming" theres not That many middle ground candidates.

Im looking forwards to the 107s next update  
i think i have called previous cars the same names as you call yours cookeh
esp the sierra that ate its carb going over the curlew mountains


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

So after treating this garbage can to some maintenance and a good clean, it repays me by developing a bit of a backfire and a rattly exhaust that slowly evolved into a boy racer's wet dream loud enough to require turning the stereo up to 90% to match its volume.

Got home, jacked it up, and immediately saw the problem...

Yummy hole

Shocked at how quickly that appeared to be honest, literally over the course of one day or around 60 miles. Sadly I can't even blame PSA for this one - they are my favourite scapegoat. The original back box fell off on the motorway 5 years ago, this is a cheap (£42 fitted according to the receipt) backbox/silencer made in the UK. 5 years from something that cheap is pretty impressive though!

Actually, I guess in a round-about way I can blame PSA; if the original exhaust was any good it would never have fallen off and so never have needed to be replaced by a cheaper aftermarket part. There we go, where there is a will there is a way :lol:

Whilst down there I noticed that there are quite a few rusty appendages on the bottom of this car. The exhaust bracket is looking pretty bad and is definitely going to require a stiff wire brush and some paint:

Tasty rust

Furthermore, the centre-section is looking a bit crusty. Not holed or anything, so probably only going to replace the back box and silencer tbh. Car is meant to be saving me money after all .

Delicious centre section

Both subframes also have quite a bit of rust and a there are a few other isolated spots that probably need a touch-up. Just surface rust for now, so we'll see if they ever get touched...


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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

I was going to mention that; I had to do the exhaust on my daughters 107, pretty similar state to yours. I think I paid around 37 quid for a back box and a few washers/seals to get it going again. I tried welding it, but only lasted a couple of weeks. Eurocarparts or CP4L, whatever is cheaper at the time.


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Good call, tosh. I couldn't hack waiting for an exhaust to get delivered so I spent an extra £5 and picked one up from ECP this afternoon. £39.63 for the silencer and another £6.49 or something for a new V-band clamp.

Turns out the rollerskate is so impractical you have to drop the rear seats to fit its own exhaust in  Poor design imo, especially when these things eat backboxes as often as they do 

Zorst in boot

After jacking the car up I tried to unbolt the old v-clamp, penetrating fluid and the longest chain of spanners I could fit in the limited space... I definitely need to find a jack with a higher max height! Those attempts were fruitless, so I broke out my latest toy - a propane blowtorch. Sadly, this didn't help so I had to resort to using a hacksaw blade to cut the bolt off. After sawing through it (took a while given the limited range of movement )I gave the clamp a bit of a love tap and the bolt dropped out, then a bit of poking with a flathead screwdriver to break away some of the rust and it is out with the old.

Jacked
V-band during
Woeful v-band

Getting the old exhaust out of the rubber hangers was quite a bit tricker than I anticipated as the old exhaust had flanged tips to the hangers. Lots of lube and some twisting (oooooh, matron!) of the rubber and they did eventually give. Naturally installing the new exhaust was much easier, just slipped in and bolted right up:

New v-band
New zorst on

New exhaust really shows up how scaly the centre section is, but given it is not leaking or holed I am not inclined to replace it - not when the purpose of the car is to save money (pahaha). Oh, and yes I did remove the sticker! With the old exhaust off we could give it a more in-depth perusal. Obviously, it was not good:

Exhaust rust
Exhaust rust

So, a relatively quick and easy job that saves my sanity. It was also my first time doing exhaust work, about as easy as expected difficulty wise - and pain in the **** wise too given the amount of spray and salt the bolts get exposed to. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to do anything about the exhaust hanger mount I pictured a few days ago - still must do something to address that.


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Looking good - that old back box was properly knackered, reminds me of wife’s old Rover 200 she had years ago - that thing ate back boxes


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

In what is sure to be one of the last updates for this heap, and in prep for its sale, I managed to detail the engine bay today. I was meant to be washing the exterior and giving it a quick DA but the weather is not permitting that at the minute - nor is it permitting addressing the wheels. On the plus side that potentially means an additional two updates on the poogeot.

The engine bay was grim. Not a huge space to get filthy or any huge vents/scoops/grilles to allow dirt in so it's far from the worst in the world, but it needed a spruce up all the same. Here's what I was working with:

Bay before
Bay before 1
Bonnet before

This was far from any real sort of detailing - didn't even bother removing the airbox to get at the head. The aim was mainly just to get it looking presentable and so your hands didn't become black from simply checking the oil. I first removed the battery to give it and the tray/fuse box a proper clean, then wrapped terminals, vulnerable connectors, and the alternator in cling film to protect them. The fuse box is sealed so not worth worrying about, and the location of the air intake means it is also not worth protecting. I also tend to cover the top of the engine when cleaning under the bonnet too, just to reduce the volume of water entering the engine bay, and to reduce the amount of standing water.

Prewash prep
Bag during

As for the process of cleaning I used Power Maxed TFR @20:1 - it's cracking stuff. I applied it liberally, let it dwell, then agitated it with a wheel brush (great for tight areas and down the side of the strut towers/engine) and a detailing brush. Then I just rinsed it off with a hose, dried off the standing water with some old cloths, put the battery back in and let it idle for 5 mins to dry the rest of the bay. Then I dressed the hoses and plastics with Autoglym Vinyl Rubber Treatment and gave any metal surfaces a quick wipe over with some wire wool. Took about 30 mins total, and then naturally it poured with rain, preventing me from getting on with the exterior.

Bay after
Bay after 1
Bay after 2
Bay after 3
Bonnet after

I also noticed a few fraying fibres in the cloth seats, so just trimmed those off with some scissors to make it a bit more presentable.

Seat before trim 
Seat after trim


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## wayne451 (Aug 15, 2016)

I’m shocked I’ve not seen this thread before!?!

My Mother has owned a 59 plate plate 108 from new. I fully support a LOT of what you’re saying (only read first and last page) but talk of clutches failing at 15k and a high biting point? Anything can be abused. My Mother’s car has done over twice that mileage. 

They are a basic car. They are great for bubbling around town. They don’t have a boot light. 

It’s the ‘issues’ that interest me more. We said within weeks that it was ****ing water in. The ‘frozen windscreen’ was dismissed as being the area we lived in. I was using a 1994 Metro at the time so I pointed out that their ‘micro-climate’ must stop a few feet after my car. &#55358;&#56611;

The window leaks? I used the backing off an old mouse mat to bridge the ‘gap’ , plus a few washers...


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Mine is on its original clutch at now 94k. Reported clutch failures at 15k are far from uncommon but one suspects comes from the demographic of town driving + new/inexperienced drivers/old farts who may ride the clutch. It can be extremely easy to ride the clutch due to the bite point if you are one of those silly individuals that does not fully remove your foot from the pedal.

Yes, leaks and frozen windscreens are far from surprising haha, dreadful really.


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Finally, finally, finally got around to doing something about the wheels. Hardly an OEM finish but a significant improvement all the same. I bought some wheel trims from Halfords for a grand total of £21, and a few tins of satin black paint for the OE look. So they got a wash, a quick sand down, primed and then a couple of coats of base. I got lucky in that there was zero wind so I didn't have to overly concern myself with overspray.

Mid-spray
Post-spray 
FS NSF

I know I had previously said I can't stand wheel trims, but seeing them in black bugged me far more than the trims do. I have a real aversion to black wheels... they make the tyres look perpetually brown, the car looks like a hovercar in the wrong light, and they lose any and all detail that the wheel might have (does not apply here of course!).

Next, I decided to do something about the decidedly oxidised and flat looking paint on the bonnet. Other panels had faded, but not oxidised so this was not only the worst looking but also, sadly, the only one I could restore the colour of. Being the pug it was also the perfect car for me to use a DA for the first time on - with very little concern over any damage or marring/holograms/whatever. Thankfully it all went smoothly and has built up my confidence sufficiently for me to take the DA to my 850 soon.

I'm sure previous pics highlight the lack of any sort of lustre on the bonnet, so I decided to use the M105/205 combo on an Orange/White pad (respectively)....mainly because that's what came with my DasPro 6 V2 haha. To your dismay, I did not have any tape so the 50/50 is not quite as dramatic as it could be but I feel it does still highlight the improvement in gloss and correction.

Bonnet 50/50ish
FS Front

And that is likely to be the last update for this car (minus a link to a listing perhaps), as it is now up for sale. Insurance renewal quotes for this thing are coming in at literally double what my 850 T5 is costing, which combined with maintenance costs and my ever diminishing will-to-live driving it makes it unviable as a second car. Those costs almost entirely offset and fuel savings, especially now the additional 12k mi that I was expecting this year are no longer a consideration.

Here are the pics from the sale ad that I am currently in the process of writing:

FS Boot by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS Rear Int by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS Rear Bench by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS Console by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS Front Int by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS Bay by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS Front by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS OSF by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS OS by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS OSR by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS Rear by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS NSR by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS NS by Cookeh_, on Flickr
FS NSF by Cookeh_, on Flickr


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Ad is live:

https://www.gumtree.com/p/peugeot/2006-peugeot-107-10-urban/1343737699

It's also on FB Marketplace (a first for me), where there are more pictures - all are in this thread already though.

Please do let me know if this is not permitted and I'll remove it - I couldn't find anything specific in the FAQs/rules during a cursory glance.


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## percymon (Jun 27, 2007)

Like ‘em or loathe ‘em that’s a tidy looking wee motor for someone. Great transformation and I’m sure it’ll sell quickly


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## Tuddie (Aug 14, 2010)

GLWTS! Excellent turnaround and looks a nice wee presentable car for someone.


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Aaaaand provisionally sold pending collection tomorrow. Hopefully not jinxed myself now haha.


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## ibiza55 (Feb 22, 2008)

Lovely Jubbly, excellent turnaround.


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## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

great turnaround... from the before's is like the work we used to see from okcharlie :thumb:


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## packard (Jun 8, 2009)

Proper job turnaround, none of this new car and 500 miles on clock and needs a quick clean

Good luck with sale.


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Thanks guys, unfortunately okcharlie was before my time on here but his threads look fantastic - far superior to my basic efforts.


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

Car has now been collected and is officially sold. That's the easiest car sale I've ever had. 10mins after the ad goes up I get a call about it, 15mins after that they are viewing it and then agree to purchase it about an hour later.


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## virgiltracey (Apr 19, 2017)

Cookeh said:


> Car has now been collected and is officially sold. That's the easiest car sale I've ever had. 10mins after the ad goes up I get a call about it, 15mins after that they are viewing it and then agree to purchase it about an hour later.


wouldn't have been that easy if it looked like it did on page 1! Credit to you Cookeh!


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