# FK1000P - Has the game moved on now



## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Hi folks, I had a post on my FK1000P drying out and how I could fix it. A few people said to chuck it away. That got me thinking, when I first bought it, it was the bee knees, the hype product. That was many moons ago and probably explains why its dried out. Has the game moved on from it ? What has it move to ? At the time for me, it was the super bullet proof sealant that was supposed to last for a long time. Seeing as I am about to throw it in the bin or use it as a paperweight, what can I replace it with (doesnt necessarily need to be a wax, as I have got used to the spray on products a bit now).


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## BRUN (May 13, 2006)

i posted something similar a week or 2 back, in the end i went with something called Fusso by Soft99, which wasnt around when i was first on here

for me, durability is top of my needs and this fitted the bill

what are you looking for in a replacement, and whats your budget


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## Alex_225 (Feb 7, 2008)

I landed on Detailing World in 2008 so similar kind of era to you and this was back when carnauba waxes were still the main thing and sealants and sealant type waxes seemed fairly new. 

Certainly Collinite 476, FK1000 and Dodo Juice waxes were the order of the day then. People were chuffed when these waxes were lasting 6-12 months. 

Things have moved on to a point. Certainly it seems new generations of detailing enthusiasts aim straight at coatings and certainly what I see on the large Facebook group I'm on, people turn their nose up to paste waxes in favour of coatings. 

I suppose technology has moved on to the point that there are many good spray on products that do similar jobs etc. 

Personally, I still don't think you can beat the hand application of a good wax!


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

I dont really mind, but it will mainly be for the durability side rather than looks, as I will always top it with something. I like the idea of wowos Crystal Sealant, that has the added benefit of looks to match the durability. Out of love with waxing now that I'm older if I'm being fair.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Alex_225 said:


> I landed on Detailing World in 2008 so similar kind of era to you and this was back when carnauba waxes were still the main thing and sealants and sealant type waxes seemed fairly new.
> 
> Certainly Collinite 476, FK1000 and Dodo Juice waxes were the order of the day then. People were chuffed when these waxes were lasting 6-12 months.
> 
> ...


Thats definitely my era !!


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## Andy from Sandy (May 6, 2011)

> Personally, I still don't think you can beat the hand application of a good wax!


The comment I would make is you are sure to have got the car fully covered.


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## AndyA4TDI (May 7, 2012)

Used FK1000P on white recently after Werkstat Prime, amazing combo, my FK is running low, will certainly buy another


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## pt1 (Feb 8, 2014)

Its still a good product, fusso or double speed wax seem to the popular durable wax at the min though. Spray wise you could look at the new turtle wax ceramic line or meguiars ceramic spray wax 

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk


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## Summit Detailing (Oct 9, 2006)

I still have a tin which I use for any entry level detail's or neighbours car's - so not used that frequently.

However I used it today on a Kia Sportage, a couple of layers and job done - a doddle to apply, decent durability with 2 layers, what's not to like!:thumb:

Everyone seems to be looking for the next big thing but some of the old school products still have their place imo.

Cheers,

Chris


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## dreamtheater (Apr 12, 2010)

I have worked with 2 waxes for about 7 years - Autosmart WAX and FK1000P. 
They both offer me everything I needed, WAX gives me the gloss and up to 6 months protection, a 1000P is a tough winter coating.


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## Clean-my-sxi (Feb 5, 2008)

Tbh i only use fk1000p on my wheels seem to doma good job, dont use it on the body though, it was very popular for wheels when i got it


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## A&J (Mar 4, 2015)

I loved this wax for years...it was easy to use, buffed off great, looked like I applied a new coat of clear coat, but after I switched to spray waxes and sealants I stopped using paste waxes all together


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## Titanium Htail (Mar 24, 2012)

Still a fan of FK as Alex you can put it on by hand, Zaino or Zymöl popular, you can put FK just by hand, time has not made them any less usefull just not what may typically be used.

John Tht.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

Personally think things have moved on from then. I rated FK1000p 5 years ago but now, it's been left behind imo as no further development has gone into the products from Finishkare unfortunately.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

I did this test which sort of pointed out that the durability - while good - wasn't the best you could get. Still a great sealant and super easy to apply, I just think the layer-able and various application methods SiO2 products bring is just what the world is into these days. I also think some of the spray and wipe products are now beating it in durability too.

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=327618


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## gloss.lab (Feb 23, 2020)

To avoid drying out, buy small pots next time 

When it comes to durable paste waxes these two should last longer than HiTemp. Fusso Coat 12 and Bilt Hamber Finis.

Type:
HiTemp is synthetic sealant, Fuso is also sealant/ptfe coating.
Finis is hybrid wax, polymer and natural carnauba.

Ease of use:
FK, Finis are very easy.
Fusso is bit harder.

Beading, from best
Fusso > Finis > FK

Durability
Fusso > Finis > FK

Visual surface darkening (colour instability)
Fusso - the most
Finis - slight
FK - no darkening

Health:
Bilt hamber has advantage over FK and Fusso.

Scent:
None of this waxes is Zymol nor Swissvax.
FK and Fusso - unpleasant, chemical
Finis - better, but still not great, neutral


For few years there was very intense coatings development. Polymer (PNS), PTFE, SiO2, TiO2, SiC. 

You can also consider light coatings.
PNS, CanCoat, Cquartz Lite, Moonlight.

I hope I helped a bit, have a good day


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## Andy from Sandy (May 6, 2011)

> To avoid drying out, buy small pots next time


FK1000P doesn't dry out when in its tin. What the OP did was transfer it to a different container if I remember correctly.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Yep, Dont ask me why. The tin was getting rusty, so in my infinite wisdom I thought transferring it into a sealed plastic tub would be a good idea.. It wasn't by the way.


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## jdquinn (May 19, 2010)

I'm from the 2008 era as well when homemade waxes were cool (On this forum). A couple of years ago I stopped buying products for the sake of it. I now only buy products when i'm out. I don't detail often, maybe a few of times a year so I'm still on an old 7 year old tin of Collinite Marque d'elegance. The top has rusted and the wax needs cleaned every time I open it but I reckon I've a few years out of the tin yet. Every time I use this stuff I wonder if I've used any at all it takes so little for a coat. Has a chemical smell but not unpleasant.

I've other bottle waxes there to be opened but I refuse to throw the colli away. It's not too bad to use but does take a couple of hours to properly work into the bodywork with a single thin layer. Durability is fine for my needs as well. 

I can't wait 'till it's used up so I can try something else and maybe speed up my process as well.


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## Rab W19 (May 17, 2017)

I think the game has moved to SI02 products and coatings, with sprays and sealants being the order of the day.

for me I love a paste wax, mainly due to finding the application therapeutic as a hobbyist. 
The technology has moved on very quickly and thankfully you can get SI02 infused paste waxes etc which gives a meet in the middle approach.

I can see the advantage of the spray wax/sealants and I am a big fan of the meguiars hybrid ceramic spray. I will continue to use it as a quick topping up wax over the SI02 paste.

I am a gloss man, I obviously want a really good layer of protection especially in the winter but endurance isn't the be all and end all for me as I am happy wasting a Saturday or Sunday cleaning the car and hand applying a wax. the layer-ability of SI02 products definitely fits the bill like Sheep says.


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

This thread is making me nostalgic for the old ways of waxing. Might have to bust out a few pots of wax and do some comparisons. Heck, not like I don’t have time!


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Let me think whats in the garage fridge:- I think I have Zymol Concours, Titanium and Carbon. There is some Vic Reds in there too. I have some FK pink wax on the shelf next to some Zaino Z2 that hasn't seen daylight for a while.


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## Berylburton (Sep 14, 2013)

FK1000P plus the other products in the range are excellent and great value for money. They have been around for a while which means they are no longer fashionable.


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## ReyIndividual (Jul 19, 2018)

Sheep said:


> This thread is making me nostalgic for the old ways of waxing. Might have to bust out a few pots of wax and do some comparisons. Heck, not like I don't have time!


Please do another one of your famous tests Sheep!


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

ReyIndividual said:


> Please do another one of your famous tests Sheep!


What would you want to see tested? Old versus new? Paste vs spray?

I'm trying to think of a chemical I can use to use for a "durability" test but I don't have a commonly used APC.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

How about FK v TW Hydrophobic Sealant Wax ? would be interesting that one.


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## Rab W19 (May 17, 2017)

Sheep said:


> What would you want to see tested? Old versus new? Paste vs spray?
> 
> I'm trying to think of a chemical I can use to use for a "durability" test but I don't have a commonly used APC.


Is it too much to ask for both?


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

Rab W19 said:


> Is it too much to ask for both?


Normally no, just trying to work out hood space haha.


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## Woodsmoke (Feb 12, 2018)

Its all down to the finish for me, and still find a wax gives a finish i prefer on my non metallic paint.. also love applying a wax.


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## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

Is it a bit weird to say that i actually love that glassy look that FK1000p gives ?

I understand synthetic v real wax visual differences and do appreciate the warm glow of proper wax on cars, and equally can appreciate a super high gloss finish (i do use BSD) but i just absolutely love that "thick clearcoat" look that FK1000p gives.

Its almost a bonus to me that it is so very quick and easy to apply + its super durable.


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

GleemSpray said:


> Is it a bit weird to say that i actually love that glassy look that FK1000p gives ?
> 
> I understand synthetic v real wax visual differences and do appreciate the warm glow of proper wax on cars, and equally can appreciate a super high gloss finish (i do use BSD) but i just absolutely love that "thick clearcoat" look that FK1000p gives.
> 
> Its almost a bonus to me that it is so very quick and easy to apply + its super durable.


That's my favourite thing about FK1000P as well - that thick, glassy finish that gets better with 2 layers and after a day.


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## ReyIndividual (Jul 19, 2018)

Sheep said:


> What would you want to see tested? Old versus new? Paste vs spray?
> 
> I'm trying to think of a chemical I can use to use for a "durability" test but I don't have a commonly used APC.


Hello Sheep! Please do a comparison test between Sonax BSD, FK1000P and Wowos Cryatal Sealant V3 if you have them. People usually say they feel like their cars have a "layer of extra clearcoat" after using FK1000P, would you say the same and do you have any pictures of FK coated panels? Thanks Sheep for being such a pro with these tests!


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

ReyIndividual said:


> Hello Sheep! Please do a comparison test between Sonax BSD, FK1000P and Wowos Cryatal Sealant V3 if you have them. People usually say they feel like their cars have a "layer of extra clearcoat" after using FK1000P, would you say the same and do you have any pictures of FK coated panels? Thanks Sheep for being such a pro with these tests!


I love tests and I love Sheep's tests, but I don't think this test would tell us anything new. The products are too disparate too offer any meaningful results.

I'm sure he has some good ideas for tests, but for my money, things like durable paste wax vs spray sealant and Crystal Sealant vs Si02 Sealants vs Fusso.


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

ReyIndividual said:


> Hello Sheep! Please do a comparison test between Sonax BSD, FK1000P and Wowos Cryatal Sealant V3 if you have them. People usually say they feel like their cars have a "layer of extra clearcoat" after using FK1000P, would you say the same and do you have any pictures of FK coated panels? Thanks Sheep for being such a pro with these tests!





roscopervis said:


> I love tests and I love Sheep's tests, but I don't think this test would tell us anything new. The products are too disparate too offer any meaningful results.
> 
> I'm sure he has some good ideas for tests, but for my money, things like durable paste wax vs spray sealant and Crystal Sealant vs Si02 Sealants vs Fusso.


I mean, I haven't done any chemical resistance tests before, but that's mainly because they really don't tell you the full picture. They only account for that specific chemical, which isn't at all representative of real world conditions. Apex Detail has his own home made "traffic film" which consists of ATF and engine oil! When was the last time ANY of these splashed on to your car with any sort of concentration? It's stupid, and I'm worried it's going to shift the market to these products that are detergent proof but can't handle some UV or wash abrasion. I think Waxmode (loach on these boards) has the right idea, using a real world car driving around to test durability. Products like Seal N Shine last 4-6 months under these conditions, even though the chemical tests would suggest it can out live a ****roach. Chemical testing is helpful, but a fairly useless metric overall, and not something I would base my LSP purchase on (Mothers CMX did terrible in chemical resistance, but it's slick and beads great.

I have an Idea for a helpful project that would be a Wax/Sealant/Coating database - where application tips and experience, as well as beading/sheeting photos would be along side for each LSP. I was going to use my parked car for this test and just apply a few at a time, document them, and then clean them off and keep going until I run out of products. Obvisouly, I don't have a lot of the super desireable "hot prducts" right now, but overtime I'd like to add to it and expand. I was also thinking people could send fragments of a product, just enough to test, and I could add it to the post. I had a name picked out - EncycloBEADia DRIPtanica - which I thought was pretty smart.

Either way, for the Old vs New test, what would you like to see out of the lot?

Please note - the generic green bottle on the right is Jescar Powerlock Plus.

_DSC5067 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

I also took a video in case the photo was a bit to hard to see.

Untitled Project by brianjosephson1, on Flickr


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## Juke_Fan (Jul 12, 2014)

Love to see Megs UQD being tested as it often gets overlooked in tests so whilst I love it I don't really know how it stacks up against other similar products.


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## Ennoch (Jan 31, 2006)

GleemSpray said:


> Is it a bit weird to say that i actually love that glassy look that FK1000p gives ?
> 
> I understand synthetic v real wax visual differences and do appreciate the warm glow of proper wax on cars, and equally can appreciate a super high gloss finish (i do use BSD) but i just absolutely love that "thick clearcoat" look that FK1000p gives.
> 
> Its almost a bonus to me that it is so very quick and easy to apply + its super durable.


FK is still my go to for a thick, glossy finish on my cars. It just looks so good, lasts forever, seems impervious to brake dust on the bottom of the doors and as a bonus is super easy to apply. Sure, it smells like boot polish but it's cheap, no nonsense and does exactly what you want it to.

I do miss the good old days where this place was predominantly people with older cars that they were putting the effort into restoring and keeping the 'new' look to, with talent, defect reduction and effort. Sure, it always was a bit cliquey with regard to the 'in' products of the month but now more than ever it seems to be filled with people putting another generic Chinese coating on a brand new car. It's funny how hobbies develop and change with time.


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## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

Ennoch said:


> FK is still my go to for a thick, glossy finish on my cars. It just looks so good, lasts forever, seems impervious to brake dust on the bottom of the doors and as a bonus is super easy to apply. Sure, it smells like boot polish but it's cheap, no nonsense and does exactly what you want it to.
> 
> I do miss the good old days where this place was predominantly people with older cars that they were putting the effort into restoring and keeping the 'new' look to, with talent, defect reduction and effort. Sure, it always was a bit cliquey with regard to the 'in' products of the month but now more than ever it seems to be filled with people putting another generic Chinese coating on a brand new car. It's funny how hobbies develop and change with time.


Detailing, for me personally, is everyday drivers being made to look as good as they possibly can.

Love to watch a new car or supercar being ceramic coated, but its not really of relevance to my world.

I also love the concept of "working smart rather than working hard" in everything that i do - so i will put the time in to prep and use paste products, but am fascinated by spray n wipe products like BSD or the new turtle wax.

So FK1000p ticks many boxs for me: easy to apply, quick to cure, leaves a great finish and is properly weather proof and durable.


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

Juke_Fan said:


> Love to see Megs UQD being tested as it often gets overlooked in tests so whilst I love it I don't really know how it stacks up against other similar products.


https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=407296

Ran it through a test not long ago. If you want something with more durability and slightly better beading just buy ultimate quick wax. UQD has cleaners that make it not as good as an LSP.


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

Sheep said:


> I mean, I haven't done any chemical resistance tests before, but that's mainly because they really don't tell you the full picture. They only account for that specific chemical, which isn't at all representative of real world conditions. Apex Detail has his own home made "traffic film" which consists of ATF and engine oil! When was the last time ANY of these splashed on to your car with any sort of concentration? It's stupid, and I'm worried it's going to shift the market to these products that are detergent proof but can't handle some UV or wash abrasion. I think Waxmode (loach on these boards) has the right idea, using a real world car driving around to test durability. Products like Seal N Shine last 4-6 months under these conditions, even though the chemical tests would suggest it can out live a ****roach. Chemical testing is helpful, but a fairly useless metric overall, and not something I would base my LSP purchase on (Mothers CMX did terrible in chemical resistance, but it's slick and beads great.
> 
> I have an Idea for a helpful project that would be a Wax/Sealant/Coating database - where application tips and experience, as well as beading/sheeting photos would be along side for each LSP. I was going to use my parked car for this test and just apply a few at a time, document them, and then clean them off and keep going until I run out of products. Obvisouly, I don't have a lot of the super desireable "hot prducts" right now, but overtime I'd like to add to it and expand. I was also thinking people could send fragments of a product, just enough to test, and I could add it to the post. I had a name picked out - EncycloBEADia DRIPtanica - which I thought was pretty smart.
> 
> ...


Great idea on the product data base. Hopefully it can be used to stop people consistently over exaggerating durability claims on products with benchmarks.

You've got your Finis/476/FK1000P test, so that's done. You can possibly do an old vs new so Autoglym EGP vs a new liquid sealant, or you could do old sealant against new 'light' ceramic QD type to see if old sealants can hold their own.

A 'how important is beading' test? Or most durable paste against a chemically resistant spray sealant. How do they weather against each other?

Or stacks - EGP and HD Wax vs Megs HCW and HCD vs Powerlock Plus and dealers choice or just Wowo's Cs vs whatever stack can hang?


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

roscopervis said:


> Great idea on the product data base. Hopefully it can be used to stop people consistently over exaggerating durability claims on products with benchmarks.
> 
> You've got your Finis/476/FK1000P test, so that's done. You can possibly do an old vs new so Autoglym EGP vs a new liquid sealant, or you could do old sealant against new 'light' ceramic QD type to see if old sealants can hold their own.
> 
> ...


Ok so here's how I see it. I have one car relevant for testing on (sits outside, gets driven). I can do chemical testing on both cars, but I would need to find a standardized chemical to use for said test, and not deviate from it to maintain future consistency (no point using a niche APC that no ones heard of). To compound this, it's not fair to put one product on a front door, and the other on a rear. It's not the end of the world (especially with the mileage I'm doing right now), but to keep things proper, we would need to test in pairs, along the car on opposing sides. The hood can act as a test bed for more than 2 products, but splitting it up gets awkward if you're trying to test more than about 4-6 at a time.

Maybe I'll make a thread asking what people would like to see face off against one another and use the most popular comparisons.


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

Sheep said:


> Ok so here's how I see it. I have one car relevant for testing on (sits outside, gets driven). I can do chemical testing on both cars, but I would need to find a standardized chemical to use for said test, and not deviate from it to maintain future consistency (no point using a niche APC that no ones heard of). To compound this, it's not fair to put one product on a front door, and the other on a rear. It's not the end of the world (especially with the mileage I'm doing right now), but to keep things proper, we would need to test in pairs, along the car on opposing sides. The hood can act as a test bed for more than 2 products, but splitting it up gets awkward if you're trying to test more than about 4-6 at a time.
> 
> Maybe I'll make a thread asking what people would like to see face off against one another and use the most popular comparisons.


What's happening on the roof? That's a nice space, unless it's a convertible. Does the boot (or trunk) have a decent flat area? Whilst they may not be directly comparable with other sections, they could offer a 2 or 3 product area for evaluation.


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

roscopervis said:


> What's happening on the roof? That's a nice space, unless it's a convertible. Does the boot (or trunk) have a decent flat area? Whilst they may not be directly comparable with other sections, they could offer a 2 or 3 product area for evaluation.


My car is an Acura RDX, MY2012. The roof would work for test section but it'll be harder to photograph/film haha. The trunk is a hatch back with weirdly shaped trims and panel shapes, so it doesn't work well for testing purposes. I could split each door into 2 sections, the hood into 6, and the roof into maybe 8? I just don't want to compare a product on the roof to a product on a door, the products are subjected to different levels of dirt in different areas.


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