# How do I tackle this job? Rust on M5



## jgy6000 (May 15, 2007)

Hi all, 

Can I get some advice on the best way to tackle this rust issue? I have ground the areas back and treated with rust treatment and I'm going to prime the areas to protect until I'm sure on the best way to proceed. I'm thinking of just blowing in the small area around the numberplate up to the sway line rather than the whole boot lid? 


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

If you just prime it and leave it your asking for trouble.
Primer is porus mate


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## jgy6000 (May 15, 2007)

Thanks for the info, I'll prime it and then give it a coat of something I got lying in the garage to protect it for the time being until the paint arrives next week hopefully 

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## Gretsch-drummer (Sep 17, 2010)

When it comes to painting you want to create a 'soft edge' on the sharp point around the number plate recess. This will be so you can (some what) blend the paint work in without creating a masking line.

To create a soft edge you can mask over the edge then peel the masking back over it self so the sticky part is showing. (Hard to explain, easy to demonstrate)


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## floydlloyd (Feb 24, 2013)

jgy6000 said:


> Thanks for the info, I'll prime it and then give it a coat of something I got lying in the garage to protect it for the time being until the paint arrives next week hopefully
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


You would be better to keep it dry. If you put the wrong thing on there the paint will fight. Keep it covered with plastic. Also you can tape it to the line like the fella above said. Just fold the tape back on it so it doesnt leave a sharp edge. And use a rust killer from bilt hamber or hammerite krust works well too. Or it will come through again in a matter of a month.


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

That needs to be shot blasted and epoxy primer.
Just grinding it won't remove all the corrosion that's eaten into the metal, where as shot blasting will. Using a normal high build after grinding will just trap any corrosion under it. It may look good once you've done it. But give it six months it will be back again and you be doing it all over again.
I know people want to keep costs down, have a go there self. But in all honesty you'd be wasting your time, its better with corrosion to be left to the proffesionals as it will also have a gaurantee. But will eventually come back again rust is like the cancer on cars. Only way to truly remove is replace the panel.


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## jgy6000 (May 15, 2007)

I'm on the look out for a replacement boot lid so would consider anything I do a temp fix until then anyway.


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## jgy6000 (May 15, 2007)

Thought I would update this as I have completed the job now. Altho it's not perfect for a fist go I think it came out rather well, and due to the position of the repair it's not in a very prominent spot.

After treating the rust I used a skim of filler. Sanded back and primered just the repaired area. The whole bottom half of the boot lid was flatted back with 1200, I then masked with a soft edge the recessed section and painted. Masking tape removed and I clear coated the entire bottom half. Will flat back and polish in a weeks time when it's fully hard but it's a damn sight better than it was.


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