# Painting the engine...



## richie.guy (Apr 10, 2006)

I have an engine and box ready (ish) to drop into the car but i want to tart it up a little. Nothing fancy, i just want it black.

So the question is - what's the prep involved in painting it? I'm just going to be using hammerite (unless you have a better suggestion). Obviously it'll need to be de-greased and thoroughly wiped down but is there any more to it than that? Also, is there a set amount of time i should leave it before fitting and running the engine. It cures in around 12 hours i think, so if i did it the day before i should be fine, hopefully...

The bay will of course be getting cleaned and waxed while the current engine is out


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## jatinder (Apr 5, 2007)

Just out of intrest would you not need a high tempreture paint? Or will hammerite do the job?


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## streaky (Dec 2, 2006)

Saw a mini engine painted with hammerite. And it had bubbled to buggery with the heat.


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## richie.guy (Apr 10, 2006)

streaky said:


> Saw a mini engine painted with hammerite. And it had bubbled to buggery with the heat.


lol

I'm not doing it, i've spoken to a few people and the process is much more involved than just a de-grease and paint.


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## V8Grunt (May 4, 2007)

Take a look at POR p300 Engine Enamel. Not used it myself but if its the same quality as POR15 chassis paint it will be excellent. You can hit this stuff with a hammer once its dry and it does not chip, unlike Hammerite!
try www.Frost.co.uk


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## Mr yella (Aug 28, 2006)

I prepped my rockers and painted them myself using normal commercial 2 pack paint and all has been well for 3 years , ive also done many other rockers in the same way and have never had a complaint .


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## BIG BAVARIAN (May 7, 2006)

i sprayed my exhaust manifold on my old xr3i with sperex vht (very high temperature paint)lasted years,just apply very thinnly at a time http://www.google.co.uk/products?q=...official&hs=5aK&um=1&sa=X&oi=froogle&ct=title


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## richie.guy (Apr 10, 2006)

I've done rocker covers and exhausts in the past, but i don't think i'm going to be happy with the finish if i do the whole engine/box. I'll just give it a tidy up :thumb: 

Cheers for the replies


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## Guest (May 28, 2007)

Just use any cheap Halfords spray paint! prime, Paint and lauqure! how we did the 220's and not a problem and the V6 gets VERY hot!


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## sconehead (Jan 12, 2007)

I used sperex years ago on a bike engine and it lasted all the years I owned it...


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## rst1990 (Apr 29, 2007)

richie.guy said:


> lol
> 
> I'm not doing it, i've spoken to a few people and the process is much more involved than just a de-grease and paint.


whats the process you have been recomended? i painted the block of me rs engine when it was out with hammerite and all seems ok 2 years down the line. all i done for the prep was spraying truck cleaner all over and scrubbing with a wire brush repeating application until clean and then painted straight on.

not only did the wire brush clean the engine block but also made a key up for the paint so it def would not just peel off. :thumb:


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## richie.guy (Apr 10, 2006)

rst1990 said:


> whats the process you have been recomended? i painted the block of me rs engine when it was out with hammerite and all seems ok 2 years down the line. all i done for the prep was spraying truck cleaner all over and scrubbing with a wire brush repeating application until clean and then painted straight on.
> 
> not only did the wire brush clean the engine block but also made a key up for the paint so it def would not just peel off. :thumb:


I've been told if i want a decent finish it needs to be 'hot tanked'.

Do you have a pic of the engine?

Ideally i want it painted, but if it's going to look crap i'd rather not.


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## Mr yella (Aug 28, 2006)

richie.guy said:


> I've been told if i want a decent finish it needs to be 'hot tanked'.
> 
> Do you have a pic of the engine?
> 
> Ideally i want it painted, but if it's going to look crap i'd rather not.


All depends on how much time and money you have to get the job done as im a commercial sprayer and pretty much anything can be done , if time is on your side ....


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## richie.guy (Apr 10, 2006)

Mr yella said:


> All depends on how much time and money you have to get the job done as im a commercial sprayer and pretty much anything can be done , if time is on your side ....


Well, not long. I've only put aside a day for prepping and painting, which isn't enough when i think about it rationally. I'll just settle for a tidy up and see what it looks like. I can always remove the engine/box at a later date, it would just be easier if i did it before i dropped it in etc.


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## AR-CoolC (Feb 9, 2006)

I painted my old Beetle engine block with smooth hammerite, and it lasted very well. No flaking or anything at the time I sold it a few years later.

BUT. I did this whilst doing a full engine re-build, and the blocks were fully stripped.


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## bigsi (Dec 13, 2006)

if your going to paint your engine then you will need the following from frost.

marine clean degreaser, this stuff is better for removing crud from your block than anything else on the market.. period!

then wash off, when clean attack with frosts metal ready, this will further clean and then etch the surface ready for the enamel.

frost engine enamel, many colours.

thats it...


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## trionic (Oct 3, 2006)

Metal Ready (made by Restomotive/POR) leaves behind a residue which can affect the adhesion of non-POR paints.

I have recently been researching paint and came across a lot of threads on a boat forum where rust quickly came through painted metal because Metal Ready had affected the adhesion of standard zinc primer.


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## 190Evoluzione (Jun 27, 2007)

AR-CoolC said:


> I painted my old Beetle engine block with smooth hammerite, and it lasted very well. No flaking or anything at the time I sold it a few years later.
> BUT. I did this whilst doing a full engine re-build, and the blocks were fully stripped.


...and it was Air-Cooled. Big difference between that and a motor with no air flowing over the exterior.
I too can vouch for POR-15, their associated etch primers and Frosts.
Great service and a frankly incredible product.
If there is an equivalent POR engine-block paint then it'll outlive the lump.


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## bigsi (Dec 13, 2006)

once you use metal ready you dont need or should not apply another primer its not needed metal ready has already prepared it for you, then you use the por paints on the metal there is a large range.

mine still looks like this even now, a quick wash with some warm water and everything just runs off it no need to crub or soap it


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## Ado225 (Sep 6, 2007)

could you not use brake caliper paint


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