# Caddy colour change



## toddy23

Just a job to do when I get spare time from my other home jobs.
































Started to strip it out and dress the dents ready for skim of filler and colour change from white to r32 blue.i think it's called deep blue pearl


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## slimjim

Looking good, are you filling the side strips and doing away with them. What about door shuts and under the bonnet will they be getting sprayed?


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## toddy23

No mouldings getting painted same colour and all the shuts and inside doors etc will be painted same,but I will paint bonnet and all the doors,trim,mirrors etc first off the van then there's only the shell left


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## slimjim

toddy23 said:


> No mouldings getting painted same colour and all the shuts and inside doors etc will be painted same,but I will paint bonnet and all the doors,trim,mirrors etc first off the van then there's only the shell left


What time scale do you have for completing the paintwork and is it the Mk4 or 5 blue . I did an R32 a while back cracking colour, that's detailed not sprayed.


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## toddy23

There's no time scale as such cos it's just a fill in job when I get 5 in between other jobs I do at home but it's a really clean van so once the repairs are sorted it only wants red scotched and stones chips stoppered here and there and spot primed


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## squiggs

Just out of interest what kind of money would be asked for on a colour change on a transit?
I only ask cos on another forum this question was answered with £10k - which was then called [email protected]@x by many others who stated they had got theirs done for £1.5K / £2K.
There seems to be quite a price range out there?


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## craigeh123

10k on a transit who would pay that lol . Ive always thought resprays are between 1to 5k depending on quality and materials etc .


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## mr paint

I would normally charge 2-2.5k for transit colour change in reasonable condition.


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## squiggs

I can only assume the £10k mentioned was for restoration and or custom paint job on something like VW camper.

(sorry for the hi-jack.)


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## JMorty

Can't wait to see it!


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## toddy23

Doors etc hung ready for solvent base coat been a while since I used it


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## toddy23

Vans coming along just got back doors to skim with filler and then taken off and hung the same,I will get it all based up withing the next 20 mins then pop up to my dads to let all the solvent escape as I don't want to clear it to fast otherwise it will nip and loose gloss


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## craigeh123

Hurry more photos !


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## toddy23

Haha I painted the doors and just the inside of the bonnet,I sheated the garage in half and painted the bonnet 20 mins ago


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## toddy23

Not the best finish I've ever done but not to bad I suppose,I went with 3 coats of clear on the doors but wish I hadn't as it was better after 2 don't ask me why that's why when I did the bonnet I only put 2 on


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## craigeh123

Sweeet . Looks ace


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## JMorty

Niiiiieceeee!


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## mr paint

Great work buddy ....solvent takes a little getting use to again hahahaa 


Looking good tho !


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## toddy23

I prefer water all the way and even tho this is a biggish job to do in my garage at home I would still go with water by miles, but this is a cost thing so it's the cheapest materials as at the end of the day it's just a old van for carrying building materials in but I still want it looking good cos it's got my name on for advertising my work


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## XRDAN

toddy23 said:


> Vans coming along just got back doors to skim with filler and then taken off and hung the same,I will get it all based up withing the next 20 mins then pop up to my dads to let all the solvent escape as I don't want to clear it to fast otherwise it will nip and loose gloss


what do you mean by nip? as this happened to me.. solvent base, flashed off, 2 coats of clear, second coat went down like glass but it lost a lot of gloss as it dried, there was no pop from the solvents just loss of gloss. wasn't pleased but this maybe the issue..

nice choice of colour by the way:thumb:


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## toddy23

It's just a term I use it looks like the paint has shrunk and pulled tight and sucked the death out of the gloss,putting to much product can do it (base or clear)and you defo need it to flash off a while before clear cos if you base and clear straight away it will be a Matt semi gloss when dry.also I bet your using the £50 clears with a rapid hardener which will loose gloss.if you want a good clear that will stay like you left it on your last coat then buy sikkens superior fast clearcoat and I guarantee it will be the best clear you can buy but it's way to expensive by time you get the hardener and accelerater.


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## Rayner

Looks good so far mate, lovely colour that :thumb:


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## craigeh123

Are the 50 quid clears any good if you use a slow hardener ?


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## mr paint

toddy23 said:


> I prefer water all the way and even tho this is a biggish job to do in my garage at home I would still go with water by miles, but this is a cost thing so it's the cheapest materials as at the end of the day it's just a old van for carrying building materials in but I still want it looking good cos it's got my name on for advertising my work


Defo buddy , when I am doing something outside workshop I just use a hair dryer to accel w/b works wonders!!

Valspar clear ?

great work ...keep it up mate !


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## Andyb0127

Looks good mate, think alot of painters have been guilty of over applying laquer. That good old max Meyer laquer. :thumb:


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## Andyb0127

craigeh123 said:


> Are the 50 quid clears any good if you use a slow hardener ?


If you can get a slow activator for them. There mostly supplied with a fast hardner. Alot of the drop in gloss levels is due to over application as these hs laquers mostly on require a three quarter coat, followed by one full wet coat job done. It was only the older style ms laquers that required two full wet coats. :thumb:


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## Andyb0127

toddy23 said:


> It's just a term I use it looks like the paint has shrunk and pulled tight and sucked the death out of the gloss,putting to much product can do it (base or clear)and you defo need it to flash off a while before clear cos if you base and clear straight away it will be a Matt semi gloss when dry.also I bet your using the £50 clears with a rapid hardener which will loose gloss.if you want a good clear that will stay like you left it on your last coat then buy sikkens superior fast clearcoat and I guarantee it will be the best clear you can buy but it's way to expensive by time you get the hardener and accelerater.


Hes already said he applied three coats of clear which is mostly likely the cause of the drop in gloss levels due to over application. We use a roberlo rapid clear and that doesn't suffer any drop in gloss levels even with a rapid hardner which is just over fifty quid so not all cheap clears are the same. Ive used a glasurit racing clear before and that dropped proving that doesn't matter how expensive the clear is it can still drop gloss levels.


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## toddy23

Where do you get the Roberlo clear from Andy as I love testing clearcoats lol,I'm slowly going through them all,we use 0300 max meyer and get it from brown brothers and I was looking at the bill and we get it for £70 with the hardener now that really is a good clear but when I look online it's over £90 so I will purchase a tin from browns.forget the 0200 if you can get the 0300 for £70 and it's complient


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## Andyb0127

toddy23 said:


> Where do you get the Roberlo clear from Andy as I love testing clearcoats lol,I'm slowly going through them all,we use 0300 max meyer and get it from brown brothers and I was looking at the bill and we get it for £70 with the hardener now that really is a good clear but when I look online it's over £90 so I will purchase a tin from browns.forget the 0200 if you can get the 0300 for £70 and it's complient


The one we use is roberlo vt 141 rapid clear, hardners are ct5 standard, ct6 rapid , but i think you can get ct4 which is a slow. We did use max 0300 untill we tested this roberlo and that's all i use now , even tho its mixed 4:1 no thinner i tend to add ten percent thinner tho as it flows out better. One three quarter coat flash off then one full wet coat job done. And suffered no drop back even with the rapid, polishes just as easy as max but ours are mostly smart repairs bug have used it for single panel jobs and two panel jobs but it would be more than capable of doing a full side with no issues. :thumb:


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## Andyb0127

Oops forgot we get robelo from movac and LKQ bug id imagine your paint supplier should be able to get it from your supplier.


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## mr paint

much you paying for roberlo Andy ? we use LkQ at times to 


also I take it your firing it through 1.2 or smaller to break it up @ 4:1?


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## Paintguy

I have to put my 2p in and say that the price of a clear doesn't always reflect in how good it is.

We buy our DeBeer stuff in at silly prices and that works like a charm if applied correctly. I also use a really cheap Pro Spray clear for my "weekend work" and that too gives a great finish with minimal loss of gloss even with a fast activator and a splash of accelerator. 

As has been said, over application is a killer. More definitely doesn't equal better in my experience. For many HS clears I find my flattest results come from a grip & rip, which for those of you unaccustomed to the term is a light dust coat (around 30%) followed almost immediately by a full wet coat. For a heavier build that matches OE orange peel a bit better I go for one thin but flat coat (by going fast & close), allow that to flash, then add one full coat.


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## mr paint

Paintguy said:


> I have to put my 2p in and say that the price of a clear doesn't always reflect in how good it is.
> 
> We buy our DeBeer stuff in at silly prices and that works like a charm if applied correctly. I also use a really cheap Pro Spray clear for my "weekend work" and that too gives a great finish with minimal loss of gloss even with a fast activator and a splash of accelerator.
> 
> As has been said, over application is a killer. More definitely doesn't equal better in my experience. For many HS clears I find my flattest results come from a grip & rip, which for those of you unaccustomed to the term is a light dust coat (around 30%) followed almost immediately by a full wet coat. For a heavier build that matches OE orange peel a bit better I go for one thin but flat coat (by going fast & close), allow that to flash, then add one full coat.


All true words .

I also use de-beer 8-414 first time I used it done the same application as m/s h/s and hosed on the first coat .... Pass me the shovel and I will pick it off the floor ... Grip and rip is great !hahaaa I am also using the prospray stuff but branded as eco clear 2:1 mix great !! under the lamps 20 mins then polish ....great clear


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## XRDAN

Andyb0127 said:


> Hes already said he applied three coats of clear which is mostly likely the cause of the drop in gloss levels due to over application. We use a roberlo rapid clear and that doesn't suffer any drop in gloss levels even with a rapid hardner which is just over fifty quid so not all cheap clears are the same. Ive used a glasurit racing clear before and that dropped proving that doesn't matter how expensive the clear is it can still drop gloss levels.


two coats of clear it was and the first wasn't a full coat, I wont rule out over application as the problem though. think ive narrowed it down to flash/drying times, application, and type/quality of material:lol:

great info on here:thumb:


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## Aaran

my local factors sell alot of mid range clears for that sort of money.

they do an ICI/Nexa ms clear with a hardener for £60 plus vat (not to bad for 7.5lt total) it flows out super nice. being ms you mix at 3:1 and go for 2 full wet coat. it drys hella fast to boot.

also had a fair bit of lechler from john and davey paints off ebay. Their macrofan HS stuff (again about £60 for a full kit) is also very good for cheaper work. flows out real nice abnd again suffers very little in terms of gloss drop.

all PPG clear are good but alot of places dont seem to tock much of them (they own ici/nexa anyho lol)


i tend to find its not gloss that drops with clears its how hard they actually go. cheaper clears then to be alot softer and easy to scratch (even ones that are advertised as scratch resistant) but better costing ones (going over the 150 mark a kit to trade here) tend to resist marring and swirling far better. (they feel alot harder when wet flatting them to)

think im going to have a play with standox for the teggy i have in. i will get round to trying most if not all the clears i can this year lol 

panels look very nice btw  remind me of the days spraying cars in a shed before the booth hehe


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## toddy23

The good thing on here is lots of painters trying lots of cheapish clears so between us we should find a really good one,like I've said the best clear I have ever used was glasurit about 16 years ago when I first tryed 90 line and sikkens superior,the sikkens you can put it on heavy and can even bury bits of dirt and it stays exactly how you left it before bake,never dropped or popped but to expensive to use on cash jobs,that's the thing with body shops now they have to compete with other body shops in the area and most people up my way go the cheapest place so if they do take it to the right body shop they are getting a bargain with quality work but cheaper materials but that's the way it's going.even my old place sikkens was for insurance work but in the end my old boss said just put the cheap stuff on every thing


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## Andyb0127

mr paint said:


> much you paying for roberlo Andy ? we use LkQ at times to
> 
> also I take it your firing it through 1.2 or smaller to break it up @ 4:1?


Depends what sort of discount your employer gets we pay around £65 for roberlo.

As alot of our work is smart repair we use a sata minijet with a 1.0 set up which is why i tend to add ten per cent thinner, if on the odd occasion i have to laquer a front wing with it i use a devilbiss gti with a 1.3 set up. :thumb:


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## toddy23

Not done that much really,done a few dents today and roller primed some 2k high build on the areas that needed 2k and arosol epoxy primed the other bits 








































This van is my nephews work van so doing it foc for making a good job of my driveway


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## supernova-dw

Looking nice and straight, I wish my jobs were like this instead of having to skim entire cars with filler....

Not thought of rolling primer before but I guess it makes perfect sense....How do you find it compared to spraying? Just a little bit of extra work needed to flat it I guess.


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## toddy23

Roller primer is ok but you have to build it up with light coats if you put it on to heavy to fast you will just rub most back off when you rub it down,what I do is maby 5 light coats and let dry,then I block with 180 just to take the top off,then 320,then sand over with 500.when you get it right it's good as it saves you in masking and putting it through a gun and cleaning it etc.


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## supernova-dw

toddy23 said:


> Roller primer is ok but you have to build it up with light coats if you put it on to heavy to fast you will just rub most back off when you rub it down,what I do is maby 5 light coats and let dry,then I block with 180 just to take the top off,then 320,then sand over with 500.when you get it right it's good as it saves you in masking and putting it through a gun and cleaning it etc.


Right OK I presumed it would have just been one or two coats to be honest... I usually put one one light coat followed by one HEAVY coat via spray gun (1.5 setup) So it seems like no possible time saving here unfortunately


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## toddy23

I applied 5 light coats in 5 minutes,plus I did this late on in the evening so didn't have to rub it back down until today,some times it's just easier for me to roller prime the jobs I do at home then spray it on


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## supernova-dw

Oh really? You can put it on that fast...? Don't you get solvent pop? To be honest if this method works then it'd suite myself also as space is of a premium for me...


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## toddy23

Still not finished need to flat and polish it,was to big of a job to do at home so took it easy on the clearcoat and I didn't want it falling off


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## Paintguy

After seeing the first couple of pictures I thought you really had taken it easy with the clear! 

Looks great. Now don't scratch it putting it all back together :doublesho


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## craigeh123

Looks awesome


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## jamie_s

Looks lovely mate!


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## Kiashuma

looks great, must have been a pain having flat tyres when moving it about.


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## toddy23

It's not perfect by along way,I never really had the time to get it how I wanted it plus this is a builders van and it's all for free,it's way to big a job to do at home and there's no way I would ever do anything this size in my garage at home for any one else cos they are just a pain in the **** and I only do part time so it ties me up.i let the tyres down so I had extra height 
It's a real nice colour and when his got his 18" wheels on it will be a awesome builders van lol


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## toddy23

Having this weekend off shame the weathers ****e,did some polishing yesterday
























Got the sliding door to do inside and out,the back doors inside and out and I need to redo the front doors cos they got 3 coats of basecoat but when the doors went outside I could see they weren't covered( blues are ****e for coverage) so when I done the van I gave it 4 coats to make sure of coverage


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## Poppy123

nice work


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## supernova-dw

Looks spot on mate! Very nice work indeed.

I have exactly the same problem as you had in regards to the doors...Paint something and then take it outside in the daylight and you can see you don't have full coverage....Sometimes I think I may as well just paint outside lol.


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## toddy23

Not done that much really apart from redo the doors and bonnet plus painted the insides of the back doors and sliding door


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## mr paint

Great work mate ...you need to colour code bumpers tho!!!!


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## toddy23

To much work in the bumbers as I don't have the time to sand all the texture off the bumpers,plastic prime,high build,rub down and paint
I did sand the door moulding texture off with 180,320,plastic prime,upol high build arosol primer and painted them and a few others bits this morning.


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## Aaran

tip for textured bumpers, rather than sand of texture in the plastic just key them with red scotch, plastic primer then shoot neat high build primer on it (you need the film build on it, add any thinner and alot you seriously reduce the film build, will peel like mad but a small price to pay) let it dry for a couple days then just run a da sander over the primer with p400 abranet and it will flat off lovely and smooth.

i have to say i find max mayer multifiller high build the dogs nads for high build primers, it actually feels firm , self levels a fair way and does not go "powdery" like lechler ti and others (bloody hate the lecher high build primers!) 

vans looking very very good matie  . try to get some lighting down low on the floor when painting, i sued to get crap coerage on the bottom of cars until i added alot of low down lights in the spray booth


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## toddy23

I have a home made stand with 2 strip lights on,I need to make another when I get time what are low to the ground,any way here's a few pics from yesterday 
































































I 180ed the mouldings then 320ed the texture smooth,took less then 10 mins and only used halfords upol arosol primer on,left 20 mins and tickled it off with a 1000 disc so not that much work in doing it this way and Hardly any product on apart from upol plastic clear primer and not much arosol primer to make it smooth


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## toddy23

I used valspar clearcoat but I used an air dry hardener and I kid you not it was dry with in the hour so I fitted most of the painted bits back on the van,mirrors,handles,back door spoilers.


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## toddy23

Well I never had the time to Finnish this job in the end and it's now gone with the 2 back doors in primer,with working all week in a bodyshop it's hard to do it again when I get home at 5 pm and I do my jobs on the side at weekends this is as far as I got now bearing in mind I had this really for only 8 weekends with my other week end jobs I did 
















And it was totally stripped out with all the doors and shuts all painted the same colour.i couldn't paint the roof cos my garage wasn't high enough so it's getting a wrap


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