# Bit more help please



## mteam (Dec 8, 2007)

been out today with the camera I'll post some pics later

had a problem with images being dark









found if I hold my hand above the camera its brightens it up









Is there a way so that I can hold ny hand over it and set the light so it doesn't change when I take my hand away.I tried in manual mode and set it so the bar on the right hand side was in the middle? but still the same there's probably a very easy way to do this  I shall re read manual but if anyones got any quick tips they'd be greatly appreciated

:thumb:


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## -ROM- (Feb 23, 2007)

you need to use centre weighted metering as your camera is trying to meter as to not overexpose the sky when the main focus of the picture is the bridge.


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## pfaiazza (Dec 9, 2008)

what about one of those plastic circular things that you can screw onto your lens, kind of acts like a tunnel?


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## mteam (Dec 8, 2007)

rmorgan84 said:


> you need to use centre weighted metering as your camera is trying to meter as to not overexpose the sky when the main focus of the picture is the bridge.


Lol:lol:

You've lost me

by the way its a fujifilm S5800


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## Mike V (Apr 7, 2007)

Spot metering might be handy. i.e. set metering to meter from which ever spot in the viewfinder you choose. Select an area thats close to middle grey. i.e. grass, or maybe a grey wall.

Then there should be a button to lock these settings. Recompose your shot and fire away.


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## mteam (Dec 8, 2007)

Thanks Mike I've read something about spot metering I shall have another look

cheers


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## mteam (Dec 8, 2007)

I've just had a look through the rest of the pics from today and the ones where the sun made an appearance the shadows seemed to be really dark is this the same problem

as below foreground bright backgound very dark most of them came out like this










cheers


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## Mike V (Apr 7, 2007)

Exif Sub IFD

* Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 10/1700 second = 1/170 second = 0.00588 second
* Lens F-Number/F-Stop = 35/10 = F3.5
* Exposure Program = landscape mode (8)
* ISO Speed Ratings = 64
* Exif Version = 0220
* Original Date/Time = 2009:01:15 18:35:43
* Digitization Date/Time = 2009:01:15 18:35:43
* Components Configuration = 0x01,0x02,0x03,0x00 / YCbCr
* Compressed Bits per Pixel = 20/10 = 2
* Shutter Speed Value (APEX) = 740/100
Shutter Speed (Exposure Time) = 1/168.9 second
* Aperture Value (APEX) = 360/100
Aperture = F3.48
* Brightness (APEX) = 670/100
Brightness = 103.97 foot-lambert
* Exposure Bias (EV) = 0/100 = 0
* Max Aperture Value (APEX) = 360/100 = 3.6
Max Aperture = F3.48
* Metering Mode = average (1)
* Light Source / White Balance = unknown (0)
* Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
* Focal Length = 630/100 mm = 6.3 mm
*
* Colour Space = sRGB (1)
* Image Width = 3264 pixels
* Image Height = 2448 pixels
* Focal Plane X-Resolution = 5714/1 = 5714
* Focal Plane Y-Resolution = 5714/1 = 5714
* Focal Plane X/Y-Resolution Unit = centimeter (3)
* Image Sensing Method = one-chip color area sensor (2)
* Image Source = digital still camera (DSC)
* Scene Type = directly photographed image
* Custom Rendered = normal process (0)
* Exposure Mode = auto exposure (0)
* White Balance = auto (0)
* Scene Capture Type = landscape (1)
* Sharpness = normal (0)
* Subject Distance Range = unknown (0)

Looks like your camera was in auto exposure which from my experience tells me that the camera will look at the whole scene and bring it down to make it all viewable. i.e. nothing too bright and nothing too dark. Unfortunately the camera can get confused/has its limits.

Edit: Just noticed its in 'average' mode... so will try to even out the scene, but like I say there are limits.

Because that image is very dark in the middle the camera will think: WOW, what a dark scene, I better increase the exposure and brighten it up.

The camera can not make one bit brighter and leave another bit as it is so it makes everything bright. So if there is a small detail in the picture that is already bright. i.e. the building in the background. It will go even brighter!

Like I mentioned in your other thread you need to find a compromise between both areas. In this picture you would be best top point at the grass and let the camera set the exposure. Then lock it place. Recompose the scene and take the shot. You may find the shadows are still a little too dark and the building a little too bright, but it should be a lot more realistic and less over/under exposed.

HTH.


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## Mike V (Apr 7, 2007)

Oh and on another note, I noticed you used a very wide apperture. (f3.8) I wouldnt recommend this for a landscape. As you will only get a shallow depth of field and alot of the picture will be out of focus. Like in this image 90% of it is very soft.

I noticed you are using a small compact camera.

FinePix S5800 S800

You will definitely have limits with this type of camera when say compared to a Digital SLR.

If you have any more questions I am happy to try and help you understand.:thumb:


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## mteam (Dec 8, 2007)

Thanks Mike I've got a lot to learn 
that pic was taken in one of the presets maybe Landscape

not sure on all the settings at the moment so I switched it to one of the presets
I tried a couple earlier where I set the apperture and shutter speed



















I was just playing around so pics of nothing really

I've just found you can use multi,spot or average for photometry is that what I need to change to spot

cheers sorry for being a dummy at this


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## Mike V (Apr 7, 2007)

Yes that sounds about right. Depending on the scene depends on what metering mode to use. Try spot and try my suggestion. Pointing at the grass or whatever you can find that appears to be middle grey.

Recompose then shoot! Let us see how you get on!


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## mteam (Dec 8, 2007)

> Pointing at the grass or whatever you can find that appears to be middle grey


Tried that today 1st pic took normal










2nd pic pointed a the grass push button halfwaydown then moved to picture










3rd pic I've tried blending 1 & 2 together in ps










from reading the manual you push the button halfway to lock the exposure but this also locks the focus :wall:

I read another tip by spitfire


> pointing your camera at the ground and reading off the shutter speed and aperture setting. Turn the camera to manual and set the camera to these settings


but it was choosing f3.5 app

thanks for all the help :thumb:


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## Mike V (Apr 7, 2007)

Looks like you had a good go. Well done for taking the info/advice on board and trying it.

It looks like you did the right thing but because the grass was in shade. It was darker than 'middle grey' thus making the camera over expose.

It looks like you are starting to understand about exposures though.


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## mteam (Dec 8, 2007)

Thanks Mike 

just realised still had metering on auto not on spot (dummy)


Thanks for all the help greatly appreciated


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## spitfire (Feb 10, 2007)

mteam said:


> Tried that today 1st pic took normal
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The tip you were refering to was to enable you to get an average light reading for fast moving things like birds or planes taken from below against a bright sky where it's difficult to get proper settings sorted out as the plane or bird flys quickly overhead. This method allows you to input settings before the plane approaches. Basically your having an educated guess at the settings. Inputing them in manual mode. then you can concentrate on zoom and framing, and be fairly confident that the underside of the plane wont be devoid of detail and black in colour

If you had first of all set the camera to aperature priority and taken a speed reading from the ground at your prefered aperture, you could then have taken your shot at these settings in manual mode. It's not a perfect method but can be an aid in difficult shooting conditions.


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