# Wool pad after wetsanding?



## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Hi all


Is it better or quicker to use a wool pad after wetsanding (used 1500,2000,2500 then 3000) as im having to do about 3 sets to remove the deeper sanding marks on either a menz heavy cutting pad or a Megs MF cutting pad using Scholl S3 on a Flex 3401.

Cheers


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

I am by no means an expert on wetsanding but on the couple of times I have done it, I had no problem with removing 3000 grit marks with a ordinary polish. Maybe some of the original marks were not fully removed by the lighter grits?


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

I would agree with the above, perhaps a longer time spent with 3000 would help. That said wool would be a better choice to a stiff foam pad IMO as it will stress the paint less, more mechanical cut but less heat will improve the remaining sets


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## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Thanks gents.

It does seem that possibly the 1500 grit has not been removed despite using 2000, 2500 and 3000. It does look like deep sanding marks in the paint that you really have to look up close and at different angles so will 3000 still be effective or should I start from 2000 and go through the stages again?

Cheers.


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

NMH said:


> Thanks gents.
> 
> It does seem that possibly the 1500 grit has not been removed despite using 2000, 2500 and 3000. It does look like deep sanding marks in the paint that you really have to look up close and at different angles so will 3000 still be effective or should I start from 2000 and go through the stages again?
> 
> Cheers.


I would polish it back a bit and localise your repairs on what's left. Perhaps repeat the 2000 upwards again over deeper marks, or edge them out, whatever you feel more comfortable ith. Just take lots of readings


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## justina3 (Jan 11, 2008)

1500 is a very agressive sand, then hit with wool how is your paint thickness holding up ?


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## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

justina3 said:


> 1500 is a very agressive sand, then hit with wool how is your paint thickness holding up ?


The bonnet has had a respray so I tried a test patch with 2000,2500,3000 grit (which worked ok with panels with oem paint). Didn't really do much on clarity and reducing peel so I stepped it up to 1500. Hasn't improved the clarity a great deal either but its good enough for me as im selling the car AND this is my first time wetsanding. Going to try a wool pad tomorrow so will see how I get on today with an MF pad.

As its my first time wetsanding and really I should have bought an old panel I've been going very very carefully and taking readings constantly. Removal rate is averaging about 8 - 10 microns including compounding. Paint thickness on a couple of lower panels is dangerously low (70-80 microns) so im only going to polish them. The rest ranging from 105 - 170. The resprayed areas are 200 - 230.


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## DrDax (Apr 16, 2009)

When I wet Sanded the Mustang for waxstock. I used 1000 where needed and 2000 for most areas. 
Constant pressure and regularly clean the area being Sanded. 
Don't rush it... Too easy to put deep sanding marks in. 
Your are sanding in a linear motion ie left right, up down. 
Keep the paper wet at all times. 
I've started using a waterless wash in my water to lift particles better. 
Most people use washing up liquid 
I use wool for first pass to remove marks, then med pad and finishing pad for a mirror finish.

I use Gtechniq p1 and p0 with wool. Runs cool being water based.

I agree with stangalang only rework the areas which need it

Practice your wet n dry technique on some scrap panels.


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## Dez58pop (May 30, 2013)

When I did pop I went 1200 1500 2000 3000 on trizact disc for an Oem finish I start with 1500 then 2000 make sure you keep changing water use a bit of fairy Liquid in the water ,you could be picking grit up that's why your getting deep scratches or it could be in the primer below the paint


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## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Strikethrough!! Thin line on my wing after spending the whole day removing the peel. Have a PD8 which was used and the weird thing is.....it was still showing about 140 microns. I used a wool pad and then noticed it. Didn't go in heavy on the compounding either.


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

The thing with resprays is its over existing paint so can cut through to another primer etc.


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## witcher (Nov 25, 2010)

Edge?
Tape it mate.
Flex is considered safe cause it is da, but it quite isn't. Powerful enough to do the damage if you let it.


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## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

James - wing has oem paint and readings are still healthy so cant understand what went wrong.

Witcher - wasnt on the edge and have used the flex on the rest of the car....even tried to carpro denim pad on the roof so dunno wat went wrong. Heres a pic of the problem


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## Aaran (Sep 18, 2007)

NMH said:


> James - wing has oem paint and readings are still healthy so cant understand what went wrong.


your gauge only tells you TOTAL paint thickness, not thickness of each layer (primer/base/clear) for all you know there was naff all clear on that section and this is the result.

you can get depth meter that will tell you every single layer and break it down, they are well into the thousands of pounds mind.

i wetsand all my cars but as i paint i always lay alot of clear and i know for a fact how thick it all is. (enough for me to go right at it with p800 and work upwards if i want it uber flat)

also numerous factors also come to play, lets say they used a fade out thinner and blended into your wings, that would have been pre sanded with p1000 ish grit to key the surface for the base coat blend and blend of clear, and it adds a new problem, fade out thinners melt the new clear into the old clear, so you could find after a blend you actually have a good few layers of paint like this: (from metal up) primer, base,clear, possibly primer again, very thin base around the edges of the fade out and clear (which has likely had fade out on it meaning it will be alot thinner than the rest of the main repair) you might get a good depth reading off it but how thick is the clear on the fade out?

also if that panel is curved it acts like an edge if you have the buffer flat to it using a harsh cutting compound, best advise i can give you if the pad is not 100 percent flush against a panel tilt it so it runs off edge much if you were buffing on an edge (on a curve the effect is much less than buffing onto a sharpe edge but it still does the same thing, remove material fast on edge and take it off normally off edge)

iv burnt through a good few times in my life, its a lesson hard learned and a costly one

hope this makes sense for you.


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## Brizee (Sep 9, 2009)

NMH said:


> James - wing has oem paint and readings are still healthy so cant understand what went wrong.
> 
> Witcher - wasnt on the edge and have used the flex on the rest of the car....even tried to carpro denim pad on the roof so dunno wat went wrong. Heres a pic of the problem


I must be blind....where is this strike through on that picture??

I'm dead keen to know what it actually looks like.


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## Gretsch-drummer (Sep 17, 2010)

^The big black line (primer) just left of the camera flash.


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## NMH (Apr 25, 2012)

Aaran said:


> your gauge only tells you TOTAL paint thickness, not thickness of each layer (primer/base/clear) for all you know there was naff all clear on that section and this is the result.
> 
> you can get depth meter that will tell you every single layer and break it down, they are well into the thousands of pounds mind.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response.

I've had the bonnet resprayed and spoke to the guy who did it before I wetsanded it but never thought to ask about what you've said. I will ask him what he did.

How much are the paint gauges that can read all layers?


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## cleaningfreak (Sep 3, 2011)

NMH ... positector cost about 2.5 k  when i checked, maybe now different price 
p.s if your ptg shows this same after wetsand , try to check your ptg on thicknes shim and have a look how much of difference shows


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