# Paint gun Advice needed



## smyrk (Sep 25, 2009)

Hi i havent been on in a while and am pleased to see that there is a new painting section as i am looking to get into spraying and ive just found what a minefield looking for a spray gun is

I have a couple of minis that i want to spray as i have strated restoring them. I have been looking at the Devilbiss Starting line spray gun 1.3mm setup.

I will be spraying them with cellulose.

Ive emailed a few companys and they have replaied that the as the gun only comes in 1.3 setup it would not be suitable for sprayin primers as i would have to thin it down too much. I now dont know what gun to buy.

I am hoping that someone could explain to me what setup i need to be llooking for to spray primer and basecoat and will i need to spray clear for cellulose paint. 

And really what sort of gun i should be looking to buy am i better buying one that i can change the set up on or should i get 2 with different setups.

Also what difference does the cap make? chers for reading this.


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## dooka (Aug 1, 2006)

Most painters will have a few different guns set up for different paints. If you want just the one then get yourself a few different nozzles and needles..

Will also depend on what paint you are using. Most are water based now apart from some voc compliant clears. 

Get your self a decent hvlp gun and a compressor that will run it. Most guns are air hungry. 

I always used to use Devillbiss guns. But there are some other makes that are just as good now. 


Sent from dooka's iPhone using Tapatalk & sausage fingers..


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## smyrk (Sep 25, 2009)

cheers for that mate the starting line gun doesnt come with different setup other than a 1.3.
ive just looked and found a cheap hvlp gun on a website for £30 would that be ok for just spraying filler. its got a 2.0mm needle


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## Saqib200 (May 13, 2008)

Can I Ask why cellulose? such an old technology now. Try and get a 1.8 for cellulose.

Personally, I would use 2K solid instead, and a 1.4 aircap.

Devilbiss guns are awesome. I started off with the Finishline 3 and it served me well. Got a GTi Pro now..


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## Shug (Jul 13, 2007)

Saqib200 said:


> Can I Ask why cellulose? such an old technology now.


On the upside its got much less chance of inflicting permanent lung damage or death on you than 2k.


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## smyrk (Sep 25, 2009)

jsut because ive been told its alot better for a first time sprayer. What differences do the air caps make?


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## Saqib200 (May 13, 2008)

The air caps relate to the viscosity (thickness) of the paint. Use 2k, make sure you have the correct breathing apparatus too.

Cellulose is old tech, and is crap. 2k is normally rock hard when it goes off. tbh, if you are learning you may as well learn a modern system.

I will always jump straight to base coat then clear coat. Harder to spray, but much better results.

Don't worry about it being lethal. Make sure you spray in a well-ventilated area, with the correct masks etc and all will be fine.


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## Shug (Jul 13, 2007)

Theres a fair bit more equipment investment needed for 2k. Air fed mask, extra compressor, if you are spraying in a garage in a residential street I'd be very wary about other folk getting a lungfull of 2k vapours in passing, especially if it turns out they have asthma already or something. Isocyanate is nasty stuff.
I agree that 2k is far better than cellulose, but its more expensive to get set up for.


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## smyrk (Sep 25, 2009)

Shug said:


> I agree that 2k is far better than cellulose, but its more expensive to get set up for.


thats another reason for using cellulose


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## mr paint (Jul 11, 2009)

you can buy battery oprated air fed masks now to ...sure sata do them ! costly YES but if your doing a couple its well worth it you will also need some extraction set up and a method of heat .


but i agree 2k is prob the way to go more forgiven if you get runs etc and you get a longer lasting finish


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## smyrk (Sep 25, 2009)

Can you not just wet sand runs out of cellulose? people have told me to shoot celly because ive never sprayed before and i thought that was the reson why?

Do i use the same guns watertraps etc for water based paint?


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

Shug said:


> On the upside its got much less chance of inflicting permanent lung damage or death on you than 2k.


Cellulose would do that same damage mate, 2K is the way to go for sure as long as you have the right breathing apparatice.

As has been said about 1.8 for cellulose and 1.3-1.4 for 2K although a 1.8 will also spray 2K.

What colour are you planning painting them as 2K is hard to get your hands on these days in metalics.


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

smyrk said:


> Can you not just wet sand runs out of cellulose? people have told me to shoot celly because ive never sprayed before and i thought that was the reson why?
> 
> Do i use the same guns watertraps etc for water based paint?


Mate if you have never painted there advise to use celly is probalby right because its easy to use and fix if you fluff it where as water base is a dificult paint to use and needs a lot more care and attention and drying equipment and also requires a clear coat.

Cellulose is not really that fussy on temps or air travel and being thicker its harder to get runs.


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## smyrk (Sep 25, 2009)

Thank for the advice mate. I'm spraying my van old English white with - gloss black roof. And then the car the brightest deepest pink I can find. 
Do you think I'll find a pink in celly?
I have no air fed mask and no dryin equipment at the minute do really celly is the way forward. Dya reckon the cheap sealey gun for etch primer and high build primer it's got. 1.8 or 2mm tip can't remember now and then the devilbiss starting line for top coat?
And can I laquer the pink one? With the 1.3 tip on the startin line gun? Cheers mate


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Try looking at devilbiss FLG you use to be able to buy them and they came with two fluid tips 1.5 & 1.8 so that way you would have two set ups for both primer and top coat.

I take it your going to use a cellulose primer.
With cellulose it's not temperature dependant, only thing I would say is if it's damp/moisture the air or raining buy some anti-bloom thinners. If you want a decent finish is apply 4-5 coats of celly leave it for a week to dry, then flat it down with p1200 and apply another 4-5 coats, it should then have a nice even finish.

It's normally mixed 1:1 and is sims to apply but don't rush it just take your time, also celly is fairly quick drying.

If your looking for a bright pink then Want to laquer it, your looking at buying a 1k single pack laquer comes in litre tina just pour it in spray gun that's it of you go spraying.

Try looking in eBay aswell for spray guns theres normally some cheap ones on there.


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## smyrk (Sep 25, 2009)

Andyb0127 said:


> Try looking at devilbiss FLG you use to be able to buy them and they came with two fluid tips 1.5 & 1.8 so that way you would have two set ups for both primer and top coat.
> 
> I take it your going to use a cellulose primer.
> With cellulose it's not temperature dependant, only thing I would say is if it's damp/moisture the air or raining buy some anti-bloom thinners. If you want a decent finish is apply 4-5 coats of celly leave it for a week to dry, then flat it down with p1200 and apply another 4-5 coats, it should then have a nice even finish.
> ...


cheers mate it is ebay ive been looking on all the FLG's only come with 1 tip but i could buy a second aswel l would imagine.
I have a unit that i will be spraying in and its pretty dry in there gets really cold in there tho at time and ive got no heater so will i need anti bloom thinners for this still?

Yeah my plan was Etch prime, cellulose high build primer, cellulose basecoat, cellulose laquer?

Ive been thinking about doing this for a while because i prefer doing things for myself and id had a quick look around n thought it would be easy to get alod of stuff and begin practicing. How worng was i lol. thanks for everyones help i know its probably like banging your head against a brick wall lol:thumb:


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Yes mate you can just buy another fluid tip :thumb:

With etch primer all you will need is one very light coat this doesn't need to cover.

With celly primer you need to make sure any repairs/filler is finished in p180, this will help with the primer finish, my advice would be to apply 4-5 coats leave it for aslong as possible to dry, then block it with p800 and re-prime it again, thing with celly primer it won't have the same build property's as a 2k primer, which is why you need to prime it, flat it, prime it again, to give you the best finish.

You will only need anti-bloom thinners if it's a damp day, when celly paint blooms what happens is it's moisture in the paint so any clear laquer you apply when it's dry will look white, yes it will polish up but chances are it will come back again.


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## Shug (Jul 13, 2007)

moosh said:


> Cellulose would do that same damage mate, 2K is the way to go for sure as long as you have the right breathing apparatice.


Cellulose does not contain isocyanates.


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## smyrk (Sep 25, 2009)

Hi cant seem to find the cfm onn my compressor plate but dont think its very high at all. Just been looking on ebay for a price for a bigger compressor and found these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3hp-50lt-...Compressors&hash=item19cd03d3d2#ht_1957wt_922

I didnt realsie they made the little ones with 3hp motors. What would be the disadvantage of this over a big one is it that i would have to keep stopping and waiting for the tank to refill?


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

smyrk said:


> Hi cant seem to find the cfm onn my compressor plate but dont think its very high at all. Just been looking on ebay for a price for a bigger compressor and found these
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3hp-50lt-...Compressors&hash=item19cd03d3d2#ht_1957wt_922
> 
> I didnt realsie they made the little ones with 3hp motors. What would be the disadvantage of this over a big one is it that i would have to keep stopping and waiting for the tank to refill?


with a compressor in the link you posted, your right i don't think it will keep up with what you want to do, and for the price of it I'm sure you could get a bigger one that would keep up.

Could you not google the make of your compressor with model number, to see if it brings up the data on it to give what cfm it is.


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