# Iron X - Never used before... will it make much difference??



## A3 Sport (Oct 23, 2010)

Well, Ive got an 09 White A3, and its done around 23k. Its been clayed a good few times, and (hand) polished, then sealed. I've never used Iron X or Tardis on the paint before though. 

Im thinking of giving it a good clean up in the next week or so. So, Im wondering whether its worth buying any Iron X and giving it a go with that?

Thanks :thumb:


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## Blueberry (Aug 10, 2007)

I would definitely give Iron X a go, especially on White. You will be surprised how much iron filings will be on, despite being clayed many times before. Would also recommend Tardis to get fully decontaminated then really no need for claying.


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## shine247 (Mar 1, 2010)

Iron x is a desert island product for me. Well worth using.


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

I used iron-x (well,Purple Rain by Autobrite) on my white car the other day actually and I always thought my car was free from and contaminents, I was wrong:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=245708


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## alan hanson (May 21, 2008)

awesome on the wheels too not just the body work you will be surprised whats hiding everywhere


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## A3 Sport (Oct 23, 2010)

Okay thanks. I will give it a try then! Im told it stinks though?

How many times will a 500ml bottle do a car, and wheels? Is it just a case of spraying it on, leaving it a few minutes then rinsing it off?

Dan


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

A3 Sport said:


> Okay thanks. I will give it a try then! Im told it stinks though?
> 
> How many times will a 500ml bottle do a car, and wheels? Is it just a case of spraying it on, leaving it a few minutes then rinsing it off?
> 
> Dan


It does stink, like perm solution! A 500ml bottle should do your car a few times and your normally leave for 5-10 mins before pressure washing off


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## Lupostef (Nov 20, 2011)

It certainly does stink mate :lol: 
You're corect on the use, I tend to agitate it after a few minutes dwelling especially in wheels.
I use about 100-150ml Per application other people may at otherwise.


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

Lupostef said:


> It certainly does stink mate :lol:
> You're corect on the use, I tend to agitate it after a few minutes dwelling especially in wheels.
> I use about 100-150ml Per application other people may at otherwise.


I used 200ml when I first used it but realised I probably used way too much!


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## isitOCD? (Dec 1, 2011)

how often do we need to be using this sort of product:wall:


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## AaronGTi (Nov 2, 2010)

isitOCD? said:


> how often do we need to be using this sort of product:wall:


Every other wash, not every time.


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## A3 Sport (Oct 23, 2010)

Okay thanks, I just wondered! 

Now, will Iron X just decontaminate my paint, or will it brighten it up aswell? Does it remove the contamination that is 'deep' in the paint?

:thumb:


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## JakeWhite (Oct 14, 2011)

A3 Sport said:


> Okay thanks, I just wondered!
> 
> Now, will Iron X just decontaminate my paint, or will it brighten it up aswell? Does it remove the contamination that is 'deep' in the paint?
> 
> :thumb:


Iron-x will remove iron particles, claying will drag up the stuff deep in the paint (as in particles) and paint cleanser will deep clean the paint,


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## Lupostef (Nov 20, 2011)

You'll notice it working massively when it bleeds with the contaminants :thumb: just when you thin your paint is clean iron-x proves you wrong!


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## k9vnd (Apr 11, 2011)

certainly well worth using.


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## Carshine (Nov 11, 2009)

Iron-X is a must for all detailers!


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## T5 Rogers91 (Jul 25, 2012)

JakeWhite said:


> Iron-x will remove iron particles, claying will drag up the stuff deep in the paint (as in particles) and paint cleanser will deep clean the paint,


So which way around should i be applying them both? 
Clay then iron x? Then a polish and then wax? Or not.


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## Zetec-al (Feb 28, 2011)

Iron x always before you clay. You want to remove as much contaminants from the paint before you clay.


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## T5 Rogers91 (Jul 25, 2012)

Zetec-al said:


> Iron x always before you clay. You want to remove as much contaminants from the paint before you clay.


Thanks for the help.


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## D1N93R (Aug 17, 2012)

will def be giving this a go. will it just give a better finish when i wax it ?


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## mr.t (Oct 1, 2010)

D1N93R said:


> will def be giving this a go. will it just give a better finish when i wax it ?


id also like to know the answer to this.

car thats been iron x'd vs car thats not been iron x'd ..

will the iron x'd one look better?shinier?feel better?look better in anyway?


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## Phil H (May 14, 2006)

This is a must have for me, part of all services offered.


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## TanVr6 (May 30, 2012)

I think I'll order some of this stuff
How abt removing tree sap n other harmful deposits that I can't see?!?


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## MadOnVaux! (Jun 2, 2008)

I have a question about these products, Iron X and Tardis etc...

Surely they are solvent based?...and as such would have an effect on adhesives on such things like badges, side trims and numberplates etc?

Or am i wrong?


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## PS CUP (Aug 23, 2012)

I've just treated myself to some TarX and IronX!

Can someone let me know how long should I leave them on for and is it the TarX first?

Thanks in advance

Pete


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## LittleMissTracy (May 17, 2012)

Can I just add to get some surgical type gloves with IronX, I have a good sense of smell and I could still smell it on my hands after I showered.


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## Guitarjon (Jul 13, 2012)

I think I am possibly the only one on the whole forum but I got some iron x and wasn't amazed by it like most of you buys. Yes it turns stuff purple but I didn't get much? It may have been to do with the fact it was that iron x soap gel? That and the price...


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## witcher (Nov 25, 2010)

great stuff ironX, used it, use it and will continue to use it. 
for me it is TarX followed by IronX then clay.
If that helps


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## deegan1979 (Mar 6, 2012)

guys. i snowfoam, wash and dry car. then tardis, agitate then jetwash, wash and dry car again then ironx agitate jetwash, then wash and dry again. is this too much? is taking a fair while before i even get to claying


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## svended (Oct 7, 2011)

You don't want to leave any of these chemicals long enough for them to dry on the vehicle. If an extra hit is needed either spray over again on top of the already applied area or rinse off and reapply to the area where attention is needed. 

Nitrile of even latex for that matter is pretty much a must when handling some of these chemicals, though some may not be irritant they can still leave quite a small or colour to the skin. 

Iron-X soap admitedly by CarPro say this will give an identification as to where to concentrate your attention to fallout removal. You'd merely two bucket method wash or snow foam the vehicle, the colouring will show where to follow up with another dedicated fallout remover.

Treesap can be a stubborn mother, attack it with the tar remover, but the best way is probably with clay as polishing the area will merely round off the head of the sap and start polishing the paint around the sap, where a clay and lube will remove the offending sap leaving a smooth if not slightly marred area for you to polish and remove possible marring and any other cosmetic inperfections that may be there.


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## svended (Oct 7, 2011)

deegan1979 said:


> guys. i snowfoam, wash and dry car. then tardis, agitate then jetwash, wash and dry car again then ironx agitate jetwash, then wash and dry again. is this too much? is taking a fair while before i even get to claying


To be honest, I prewash (agitate the areas around the windows and other nooks and crannies with a Swissvax style brush and some degreaser sprayed onto the head of the brush), rinse off after, Go straight in with the tar remover, allow to dwell, wipe with a MF cloth, maybe give it another go if needed and picking with my nail if there are large clumps of tar to open it up and hit it again with the tar remover till your happy the area is clear of tar, rinse, go in with the iron fallout remover if need be, not always needed but try on obvious areas first (ie around the wheel arches, the front end of the car, along the side up to the spate line or rubbing strip and up the rear of the vehicle, reapply if necessary, then rinse and rewash the vehicle to make sure all chemicals are removed from the surface, then whilst the car is still wet if choosing to clay the vehicle, apply clay lube to the immediate area to be clayed (if not dry vehicle with drying towel or airforce air blaster and continue with polish process), with light pressure run the clay in short movements up and down or left and right till the area working on shows no friction to your applied movement, continue until happy or whole vehicle is done, rewash the vehicle to remove any debri and dry the vehicle with a drying towel or airforce air blaster and continue with polish process.

It sounds a lot but you don't have to clay or remove iron fallout on all washes, though tar removal is up to you and whether tar is present on the vehicle, mostly on the side behind the front and rear wheel arches.


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## deegan1979 (Mar 6, 2012)

svended said:


> To be honest, I prewash (agitate the areas around the windows and other nooks and crannies with a Swissvax style brush and some degreaser sprayed onto the head of the brush), rinse off after, Go straight in with the tar remover, allow to dwell, wipe with a MF cloth, maybe give it another go if needed and picking with my nail if there are large clumps of tar to open it up and hit it again with the tar remover till your happy the area is clear of tar, rinse, go in with the iron fallout remover if need be, not always needed but try on obvious areas first (ie around the wheel arches, the front end of the car, along the side up to the spate line or rubbing strip and up the rear of the vehicle, reapply if necessary, then rinse and rewash the vehicle to make sure all chemicals are removed from the surface, then whilst the car is still wet if choosing to clay the vehicle, apply clay lube to the immediate area to be clayed (if not dry vehicle with drying towel or airforce air blaster and continue with polish process), with light pressure run the clay in short movements up and down or left and right till the area working on shows no friction to your applied movement, continue until happy or whole vehicle is done, rewash the vehicle to remove any debri and dry the vehicle with a drying towel or airforce air blaster and continue with polish process.
> 
> It sounds a lot but you don't have to clay or remove iron fallout on all washes, though tar removal is up to you and whether tar is present on the vehicle, mostly on the side behind the front and rear wheel arches.


thanks, so u dont dry before applying tardis or fallout remover then?


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## svended (Oct 7, 2011)

deegan1979 said:


> thanks, so u dont dry before applying tardis or fallout remover then?


No need to really. By the time you've been round the car getting soap suds out of all the nooks and crannies, turned off the washer, and tidied up a little so as not to stand on the pressure washer hose and it should be sufficiently dry to start work with the tar remover, after a rinse go straight in with the iron fallout remover.


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## deegan1979 (Mar 6, 2012)

svended said:


> No need to really. By the time you've been round the car getting soap suds out of all the nooks and crannies, turned off the washer, and tidied up a little so as not to stand on the pressure washer hose and it should be sufficiently dry to start work with the tar remover, after a rinse go straight in with the iron fallout remover.


sweet! uve just made my day. normally takes me 2-3 hours before i can clay. should be a lot quicker now. cheers


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## mass (Aug 16, 2007)

Auto Glym Fall out remover does the same thing without the Special effects.


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## svended (Oct 7, 2011)

deegan1979 said:


> sweet! uve just made my day. normally takes me 2-3 hours before i can clay. should be a lot quicker now. cheers


Usually takes me 2 hours to wash (starting with the wheels and scrubbing the wheel arches and tyres with degreaser), then prewashing the car, washing, rinsing, etc.. up to drying.


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## MLAM (Jan 21, 2009)

I tried it for the first time today, think I used just over half of a 500ml bottle, I think I've used too much, what do u think guys?

It worked a treat mind you and it left a nasty red stain on the local jetwash where my car was! LOL


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## svended (Oct 7, 2011)

MLAM said:


> I tried it for the first time today, think I used just over half of a 500ml bottle, I think I've used too much, what do u think guys?
> 
> It worked a treat mind you and it left a nasty red stain on the local jetwash where my car was! LOL


Sounds about right for first time and getting used to it. The first use you always end up using a little more than you ordinarily would as your 1, learning how to use it and 2, it's probably the heaviest it'll have to work as it's going through all that build up.

A good wheel cleaner first to remove the loose stuff is best, then hit it with the fallout remover. You'll notice you'll only use about half as much as the first time. After, invest in a good wax or sealant and that will help stop the brakedust from bonding to the metal and aid washing.


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## MadOnVaux! (Jun 2, 2008)

Ben Gum said:


> Fallout removers are water based, to a simplification, they wouldnt work with a solvent base. Tar removers, yes... they are an extremely potent group. They will dissolve adhesives in quick time and tardis has even been known to cause damage to paintwork if applied and allowed to dry in sunlight.


Thank for that Ben :thumb:


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