# Has anyone used Wurth Spray paint for spot repairing alloys???



## mx_rab (May 25, 2011)

Basically as above, i have an audi a3 and was wondering how good a match it is. It says it covers audi porsche vw bmw mercedes to oem standard.

Advice appreciated :thumb:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wurth-Ger...icle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item4160ef1cfa


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

Wurth do some really good kit mate, proffesional stuff mainly found in bodyshops so Joe public doesnt see much of it. 3m used to be like that and farecla.

I would give it the thumbs up because we used it at both merc & BMW bodyshops when i was there.

Thanks for the link also i might buy some of that myself :thumb:


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## justina3 (Jan 11, 2008)

as above i have never used the kit your looking at but i use there plastic paint and underseal all the time and its a top make


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## LindenH (Oct 25, 2011)

That's an exact match for BMW alloys - probably also for Audi. Also, if just a touch-up for chips on the alloy is required, Hammerite smooth silver is a very, very close match.


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## mx_rab (May 25, 2011)

Thanks guys looks like il be ordering some come payday. I either spend 60 quid a wheel getting them back to near perfect or i have a go myself and possibly save hundreds. If its good enough for merc and bmw bodyshops its good enough for me.


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## moosh (May 8, 2011)

mx_rab said:


> Thanks guys looks like il be ordering some come payday. I either spend 60 quid a wheel getting them back to near perfect or i have a go myself and possibly save hundreds. If its good enough for merc and bmw bodyshops its good enough for me.


You will require a clear coat fella, i would go with the wurth clear coat as well :thumb:


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

I've used Wurth's Lacquer Clear, and find it pretty nice for an aerosol product. Wurth's lacquer clear is an absolute dream to polish (Soft enough to be easy to cut, but not so soft that it's impossible to finish down, like I've experienced with some aerosol paints.), and has excellent depth and clarity.

The spray head on it is my only complaint. The atomization on it is very good (A big problem with aerosol paints, especially Rustoleum, Hammer****e, Krylon, etc.), it just puts out too much paint! It really hammers the stuff onto the panel, and it would be fantastic if you wanted to get a nice wet coat. However, since this product is an acrylic-lacquer, you want to get a nice _thin_ coat to avoid cracking. To do this with the Wurth's lacquer clear, you have to pull back on your distance, and increase your speed. This creates a drier film, and promotes a huge amount of orange peel. If you want to obtain a 'Show Finish', and cut back after each coat with P600-1000, this isn't an issue.

Hopefully this helps... I haven't tried any of their silvers, but if memory serves the spray head is the same for all of them. This isn't an issue with the 'Basecoat' as you aren't really shooting for 'Wet-Look', you're shooting for proper metallic distribution, so you naturally are looking for a drier coat. I would, however, flat back the basecoat as well after each coat if you are trying to achieve that 'Show Look' to cut out the orangepeel, and leave your last mist coat before clear alone to avoid disrupting the metallic.

Steampunk


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## geoff.mac (Oct 13, 2010)

One of the traders on here sell it, not sure if it works out cheaper with dw discount http://www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/Wurth_German_Alloy_Silver_Wheel_Lacquer___400ml__1149.html?gclid=CPryxqKd3a0CFasMtAodFW6Qng


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## mx_rab (May 25, 2011)

moosh said:


> You will require a clear coat fella, i would go with the wurth clear coat as well :thumb:


Yeah mate il be getting primer, base and clear from wurth. What is the best primer to use?

Cheers steampunk, very helpful advice. Just a quick question though, what do you use for cleaning the area before filling and painting? Standard thinners? Also everytime you flat it do you clean with thinners before the next coat?


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

Best 'match' for EU wheels

"Repairing / Renovation of Scratched or Curbed Wheels" -http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-...tion-scratched-curbed-wheels.html#post1451320


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## crazysnakeman (Oct 12, 2011)

I've used it for a repair on one of my A3 wheels, not a spot repair though, I did the whole wheel. Really good. I thought it was a bit brighter than the other wheels till I realised they were just very dirty!


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

mx_rab said:


> Yeah mate il be getting primer, base and clear from wurth. What is the best primer to use?
> 
> Cheers steampunk, very helpful advice. Just a quick question though, what do you use for cleaning the area before filling and painting? Standard thinners? Also everytime you flat it do you clean with thinners before the next coat?


I'm glad you appreciated it! No, you will not want to use standard thinners for cleaning the area to be refinished, as these will leave behind a residue that will interfere with the paint bonding. They also aren't very effective at removing silicone residue, so you'll be wanting a dedicated body-shop prep-solvent. You should be able to obtain this at any auto-body/restoration paint supply. U-Pol makes a decent aerosol version (http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/126/s2002-degreaser-slow.htm), but a commonly used brand/product name is DuPont Prepsol. For cleaning the sanding residue off between layers you'll want to use a tack-cloth (http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/147/tack-cloths.htm); this is also available at auto-body supply shops. You're going to be using lacquer-based products, and they'll have a tendency to be reversible if you introduce solvents to them too quickly.

I'd highly recommend the U-Pol brand for your putty (Extra Gold, If necessary), etching primer (Aerosol Acid #8), and filler (Aerosol High #5). They're a bit more expensive than normal DIY brands, but now we're talking proper refinish-grade materials, and (Just like detailing.) you don't want to skimp on your prep/base layers! U-Pol Clear #1 Aerosol Lacquer Clear is also supposed to be superb if you want to try something other than the Wurth product; might even be better from what I've read!

Now, a couple of side notes:

1. Make sure you have solvent resistant nitrile gloves, eye protection, and a half-face respirator with FRESH organic carbon filters. Even though these products that I recommended are not catalyzed, they are still very dangerous, and not to be trifled with.

2. Observe all instructions TO THE LETTER! Quality paint finishes, like quality detailing, are all about preparation, and using the proper technique. Don't be afraid to practice on something before hand so that you can get good results on your wheels. Metallics are not as easy to apply as solid colours, and can easily mottle or stripe if you don't maintain good technique while painting the wheels. This can be difficult due to the shape, and all the little nooks and crannies, but you can get good results if you take your time and think about how your spraying style will impact the way the metallic flake lays.

3. More paint is not better! After you've got your primer/filler base laid down and sanded, you want to apply a thin coat of your 'Basecoat', flat-back, apply another thin coat, flat-back, apply another thin coat, flat back, apply another thin coat, and flat-back until you JUST obtain complete coverage. After that, apply a 'Control Coat' (I.E. A very thin mist coat.) of your silver, and then go onto the clear. Apply 2-coats of clear, and then start flatting back (Applying two coats before you start flatting back gives you a little bit of a safety net so you don't accidentally cut into the silver, and ruin your metallic distribution.), and adding more layers. You also don't want to have too much, or too little clear. With all the sanding, it's very hard to judge, but I'd aim for a total of about six (+ or minus 1) flatted-back coats of clear. This way you should have three good coats of clear left on the wheels when the job is done. You might even want to use P1000-1200 for flattening back your clear to give you a bit more control, so that you don't end up taking off too much.

4. Don't add too many layers too quickly. Lacquer is a trapped solvent paint, and can crack very easily if you try to apply too many layers too quickly, without giving the paint proper time to breath. Apply a layer, flat it back, apply another layer, flat it back, and then wait a couple of days for all the solvents to out-gas before applying more coats. This is a protracted process, but it's the only way to ensure good results with lacquer.

5. Because you probably won't be painting in a perfect environment, you'll probably end up getting some dust, or a gnat in the paint. Lacquer flashes quickly, so these defects will be minimized, but I can almost guarantee it. You might also get a run or 'Flow Check' if you aren't careful. When this happens, you'll want to cut it out BEFORE sanding so that you don't end up removing too much of the surrounding paint in an effort to level down the 'Nib'. For this you will want to create your own de-nibbing tool. Take a safety razor blade (The kind with the little crimped-on backing plate.), and run one side of the edge along the shaft of a screwdriver to form a burr on the opposite side of the blade. Afterwards, bend the razor blade so that the side with the burr bows out by about one millimeter. Hold your freshly made run/nib razor between the thumb and index fingers of both hands, and use the side with the burr to scrape the nib/run down by running the tool at a 75-85 degree angle along the surface of the defect. Once the defect is level, you can flat back the paint with your sandpaper. This is a little painter's trick, and I hope that my explanation made sense.

6. Since we're on a detailing forum, I know that you're probably going to want to polish and seal your wheels. With lacquer, you're going to want to wait 90-120 days before sealing them, though you can polish them before that time. You also can't use things like GTechniq C5 or CarPro CQuartz on them, as the strong solvents in these might react with the paint. Concours CeramiShield, or Wolf's Rim Shield may be a safe alternative if you want a nano coating, though you will want to check with the manufacturers before applying the coating. Even though the Wurth's clear isn't as soft as some, it's still going to scratch and mar fairly easily. For this reason you will want to use the utmost of care while cleaning your wheels. Normal brushes are probably out of the question, so you might want to change to wheel woolies. Strong alkaline or acidic cleaners are also out of the question, as lacquer does not have the chemical resistance of modern paint, so you may want to start using either pH neutral shampoo, or P21S wheel cleaner to clean your wheels.

Hopefully this is helpful...

Steampunk


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## uruk hai (Apr 5, 2009)

I used Wurth paint and clear coat to do my wheels, I was happy with the results and thought the products were very good.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=117662


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## mx_rab (May 25, 2011)

Wow thats a comprehensive guide ha. Thanks very much, very helpful. What type of filler would you suggest, U-pol Isopan Metalik or U-pol Isopan P38? 

I'll spend a weekend in the summer giving it a go. When i have plenty of time.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

mx_rab said:


> Wow thats a comprehensive guide ha. Thanks very much, very helpful. What type of filler would you suggest, U-pol Isopan Metalik or U-pol Isopan P38?
> 
> I'll spend a weekend in the summer giving it a go. When i have plenty of time.


I'm glad that it was useful to you. I'm doing a ground-up restoration on a 1977 MG MGB Roadster, so bodywork is a topic that I enjoy fielding questions on.

I haven't personally used either product (Evercoat is a more popular brand in the USA, though U-Pol Dolphin Glaze is starting to gain some popularity with refinish professionals.), but Isopan Metalik is the only one of the two that advertises compatibility with aluminum on the TDS sheet. U-Pol Isopan Metalik has been replaced with U-Pol D, so I'm not sure where you are able to find Metalik, but I wouldn't really trust that the source is providing you with fresh material.

Both Metalik and U-Pol D are aluminum reinforced polyester fillers, and they're designed for applications where structural rigidity and impact resistance are paramount. They will be much harder to sand than a pure polyester filler, and for repairing a light scuff or scratch on an alloy wheel, it's really overkill to use something like this. If you're applying enough force to the wheels to damage a normal polyester filler (Which is much more resilient than your paint!), your lacquer job is going to be completely ruined anyway. U-Pol Extra Gold will be much easier to work with, and should satisfy your need (http://colourmatchcentre.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=353). If those are the only two body fillers you can get, however, I would go with the Metalik/U-Pol D...

The only application that I would recommend an aluminum reinforced filler for would be (A) over a weld, (B) leveling an area that I knew something was going to be bolted down on, or (C) filling damage deeper than 4-5 millimeters. If your wheels have deep damage like this, you will want to seek the guidance of an alloy wheel repair specialist, as deep cosmetic damage like this could potentially be hiding structural flaws.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk

P.S. How big of an area are you trying to repair? I can give you some tips about blending in the finish if you need them...


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## DanGB (Apr 16, 2008)

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but tips would be greatful on how to blend the repair in with the rest of the wheel.


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