# DA vs Rotary



## RS EDDIE (Sep 5, 2012)

Hi people. Just signed into this sight finally and ive got a few questions to ask you all.....

Right im a bit of a bufty and always enjoyed cleaning cars. Im currently in the process of completing a concours Fiesta Rs turbo. The car has just had a new paint job which is perfect. I also have a fiesta Si which is in need of a good mop and polish.

Heres the thing....I would like to purchase either a DA machine (kestrel, Dodo, Megs) or a rotary polisher. 

I have never machined a car before so im a novice at it. What are the pros and cons of the above types of machines?? 
> Can i mop with a DA??
> Is it the cutting compound that determines the depth of the Cut into the paint?
> Is there a technique to a Rotary as opposed to a DA??
> What machines do you all recommend?

Obviously my concourse car will not need a great deal of work, maybe a bit of orangepeel taken down, but mainly I want a good finish on the paintwork!!!

Any advice greatly appreciated.:newbie:


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## spursfan (Aug 4, 2009)

> Can i mop with a DA??.....yes
> Is it the cutting compound that determines the depth of the Cut into the paint?...lot depends on machine, pads and compounds, read the section about polishing, and Dave KG's guide is the bible.
> Is there a technique to a Rotary as opposed to a DA??..yes, again read Dave KG's guide
> What machines do you all recommend?...that depends on what you need to do to your cars paint and how often..

It's a minefield out there with loads of info, all varying, so there is no real simple answer to any of your questions.
Read as many threads as possible and then make your own choice.

Kev


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

I would say a rotary is a better mop as you put it, da has advanced apparently and there is a bigger range of new age cutting blah blah, but for 70 quid you can't beat a sim 180 rotary, if you don't like it you can chuck it away

sent from my Nokia 3210 using ticky tacky


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

No real technique for rotary, if your using megs 105 or 205, add a blob of polish, apply pressure, move it around for a minute hey presto whiney paint

sent from my Nokia 3210 using ticky tacky


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## Foxx (Jul 5, 2011)

All good advice above. I'll add my usual chant of "try before you buy" - see if you can get onto an open day or find someone with access to a rotary and a DA, so you can have a play and see which you prefer


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## Bkjames (Sep 13, 2006)

You can have a go at my rotary on Saturday mate :thumb:


Brian


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## Guest (Sep 6, 2012)

ive used a kestral DA but now i have a flex rotary i wont be going back to DA any time soon


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

They both have their place. But if you are only going to have one machine then it has to be a da. Way more versatile, and given the advances in pad and polish this last year or so, it no longer has to be a long drawn out option, they are quick precise machines now


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## Junior Bear (Sep 2, 2008)

I've used a da for nearly four years

Tried a few rotarys out recently and I am definitely getting one this week. Will leave the da for painted plastics and applying liquid waxes or glazes.

I disagree with the comment about no technique needed for rotary. But when you get the feel for it it is a much nicer machine to use than a da, dare I say easier once you learn the ins and outs


IMO the da is good at correcting with the megs mf system, nothing else I've tried can do it without spending a stupid amount of time to minimal effect


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## jimbokeenlyside (May 10, 2011)

Well I'm very much a :newbie: I just got this Rotary: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=276586

I have a 2005 Golf and 2011 Mazda 6. Picked up Hex Logic Orange, Grey and Black with GT P1 (http://gtechniq.com/shop/3s-for-cars/polishing/p1-nanocomposite-polish/) :argie:

Had superb result on the golf. Been meaning to put a few pics up. Used Hex Logic Orange with P1 started at 900 RPM ish one pass up to 1500 three passes and one more at 900. 
Swirl city complety gone. Chuufed to bits. :thumb:


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## Junior Bear (Sep 2, 2008)

Afaik the orange pad is best for cut on a da because it is closed cell technology pad

The yellow is more suited to rotary as it is an open cell pad, allowing heat to escape more comfortably


But if it worked for you then cool!


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

Why buy an expensive da and expensive megs mf system when a cheapo rotary and cheap pads will produce great results straight off?, can you not use a rotary to apply liquid waxes?
sent from my Nokia 3210 using ticky tacky


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## Junior Bear (Sep 2, 2008)

Are you talking to me?


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

No I'm talking to the other man, I don't know how to quote stuff from my phone!

sent from my Nokia 3210 using ticky tacky


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## Guest (Sep 6, 2012)

stangalang said:


> They both have their place. But if you are only going to have one machine then it has to be a da. Way more versatile, and given the advances in pad and polish this last year or so, it no longer has to be a long drawn out option, they are quick precise machines now


yeah but the same advances are with rotary too


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

That's what I thought, rotarys are manly as feck

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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Yes, but eventually you will meet a car that the rotary hates, and a da will come into it's own. I guess my point is both machines have advantages, but a da WILL cover all jobs, a rotary will MOST of the time, so if you only have one machine full stop a da makes the most sense


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## Guest (Sep 6, 2012)

stangalang said:


> Yes, but eventually you will meet a car that the rotary hates, and a da will come into it's own. I guess my point is both machines have advantages, but a da WILL cover all jobs, a rotary will MOST of the time, so if you only have one machine full stop a da makes the most sense


yep i see what you mean


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## jimbokeenlyside (May 10, 2011)

I think Hex logic work with both types. I just went with this when choosing:
http://www.chemicalguysuk.com/Hex_Logic_Self_Centered_Buffing_Polishing_Pad_p/bufx_107hex5.htm
About mid way "Chemical Guys Hex-Logic pads can be used with ALL POLISHERS: circular polisher, dual-action polisher and even the Flex Polisher!"
But its works well for me.:thumb:


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## Junior Bear (Sep 2, 2008)

I had some rotary training from Gordon (carpro rep) and lee at bespoke car care.


Just repeating what they taught me about the hex logics


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## jimbokeenlyside (May 10, 2011)

Fair point, think I could have done with training. I dived in rotary with wet sanding too. But its all worked okay....**phew**


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## Junior Bear (Sep 2, 2008)

Haha good lad

I went purely because I was not getting good results from using my da even after four years practice so I wanted to be trained just Incase I've been doing something wrong. But I was tryin out the rotary at the training day and totally forgot about my da technique, just wanted to learn rotary!


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## RS EDDIE (Sep 5, 2012)

Many thanks for the replies chaps, lots to consider...Thanks brian ill see how i get on with youres tmrw.:buffer:

Im edging towards a DA as its new paint and dont really want the paint like glass, more of a nice finished standard factory jobby!!!


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## RS EDDIE (Sep 5, 2012)

.....


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## RS EDDIE (Sep 5, 2012)

Does the quality of the pad determine the outcome of the finish??? If something spins at a certain revs, then why are some machine polishers £150+ and others can be as low as £30?? If it spins it spins doesnt it, or am i missing something?? Thanks.


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## msb (Dec 20, 2009)

For anyone new to machine polishing i would edge towards a DA, its what i did and am now moving on to a rotary, but i will still keep the da, as certain paints definatley finish better with a da


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

RS EDDIE said:


> Does the quality of the pad determine the outcome of the finish??? If something spins at a certain revs, then why are some machine polishers £150+ and others can be as low as £30?? If it spins it spins doesnt it, or am i missing something?? Thanks.


That's like saying a car is a car, 4 wheels and an engine, so what's the difference.


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

msb said:


> For anyone new to machine polishing i would edge towards a DA, its what i did and am now moving on to a rotary, but i will still keep the da, as certain paints definatley finish better with a da


Could you elaborate a little please? I'm a little curious because I have encountered similar statements before in these forums. Is a DA better on softer paints or something?

Thanks.


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## RS EDDIE (Sep 5, 2012)

So could you break it down then,......whats the benefits of an expensive rotary polisher as opposed to a cheaper one, disregarding the life expectancy of the two different types...

If a cheaper one spins with decent pads, then is there a difference to be gained using an expensive version with decent pads.??


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

nope, i have megs pads that spin on my cheapo polisher, if i were to put the same pad on a 300 quid festool rotary it would still spin, but quality feel customer service etc is excellent with the festool (apparently), but i dont care for that, my wing on my celica is really shiney due to my cheapo polisher!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, did you have any joy with the rs turbo polishing situation?


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

RS EDDIE said:


> So could you break it down then,......whats the benefits of an expensive rotary polisher as opposed to a cheaper one, disregarding the life expectancy of the two different types...
> 
> If a cheaper one spins with decent pads, then is there a difference to be gained using an expensive version with decent pads.??


Start speeds, torque, smoothness, noise, temperature, there are so many features to be had over a cheap model. Please don't misunderstand as with everything there may be value for money cheaper products and rip off expensive ones. But the extra price has usually gone into R&D and technology, much like a car


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## Beau Technique (Jun 21, 2010)

RS EDDIE said:


> So could you break it down then,......whats the benefits of an expensive rotary polisher as opposed to a cheaper one, disregarding the life expectancy of the two different types...
> 
> If a cheaper one spins with decent pads, then is there a difference to be gained using an expensive version with decent pads.??


The gearing a motor on cheaper variants will always be that bit more inferior and potentially bog down under load. Having used the Festool, Milwaukee, CP chicago, Felisati, Flex, Makita, Silverline. I found personally that the Festool was not balanced for my way of working plus it was too light weight for my personal tastes plus many have been sent back with issues. I have a Felisati at home that is still going after 10 years ( maybe longer ) nice weight, 400rpm start up speed and easy to use. Ive had the Makita 9227cb for a good length of time now and cant fault it one little bit. Quite running, well poised and does what it was made to do all within a midrange price. 
You could by a Daewoo ( Silverline ), reliable, dog ugly and cheap.
You could by the BMW ( Makita ), Well built, traditional and works or you could buy the TVR ( Festool ). - - Looks the part, everyone wants one but at some point will let you down.

Im happy with the BMW and for me, the right choice hands down ( personal opion only of course and im sure I will have the festooligans baiting for my blood but hey ho  )


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

:lol: it's alright festooligans have all got mild tinitus so they won't hear this thread :buffer:


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

my cheapo rotary starts slow, has good torque , is very smooth, isnt as noisy as my da, but it weighs a fair bit, looks ugly and doesnt have a cool name, there was a festool up for sale here last week or the week before i was tempted but....... my cheapo rotary is the best rotary in the detailing world ...


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## Beau Technique (Jun 21, 2010)

stangalang said:


> :lol: it's alright festooligans have all got mild tinitus so they won't hear this thread :buffer:


PMSL:lol:


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Deniance said:


> my cheapo rotary starts slow, has good torque , is very smooth, isnt as noisy as my da, but it weighs a fair bit, looks ugly and doesnt have a cool name, there was a festool up for sale here last week or the week before i was tempted but....... my cheapo rotary is the best rotary in the detailing world ...


Do you have a name for your rotary so we can all get one? A well priced machine that's as quiet, smooth, cool and as solid at 400 rpm as my current machine is something I am massively interested in :thumb:


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

roberto the rotary!!!!


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Deniance said:


> roberto the rotary!!!!


:lol:Let me rephrase that, one I can google, and perhaps purchase and test :buffer:


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## Junior Bear (Sep 2, 2008)

I thought the festool was quiet!.... Lol


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

i fink its called a detalyo 180 or summint, twas 70 quid with pads from local paint shop


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## P.A.D (Jun 26, 2008)

That will be a Kestrel then dude,

800 RPM start speed and not too soft on start up.



Russell


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Deniance said:


> i fink its called a detalyo 180 or summint, twas 70 quid with pads from local paint shop


That's a kestrel machine right? Sim 180 or something? Think they retail at about a oner, not sure on start speed but I thought it was up at the 900 rpm Mark. Again I may be wrong lol. Will speak to my mate google later see what he says


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

P.A.D said:


> That will be a Kestrel then dude,
> 
> 800 RPM start speed and not too soft on start up.
> 
> Russell


Every time!!!


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## P.A.D (Jun 26, 2008)

stangalang said:


> Every time!!!


Not quite dude..

All info from experienced detailers is good though I say..


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## Deniance (Jun 28, 2008)

according to the detailing gods, 900 rpm is the absolute best start speed in the world ever, so there, poofs


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Deniance said:


> according to the detailing gods, 900 rpm is the absolute best start speed in the world ever, so there, poofs


:lol: in my face


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## RS EDDIE (Sep 5, 2012)

Defiance, ive not really touched the paint on my Rs Turbo yet, im now taking off all the underside metal work again as i had it powdercoated in gloss black, but i now want it all redone in satin as its more of an OEM finish!!!!

Thanks for the replies chaps, makes alot more sense now, i suppose its the same in every comparison of cheap-expensive things...


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