# Clear coat job stopped part way through, re coat advice required!



## MaccerM (Oct 8, 2018)

Hi all,

First post here, part way through my first painting project, a respray on my Peugeot 306 rallye (solid black).

I'm using base and 2k clear, the body was painted with the final coat of base Sunday evening then I attempted the first coat of clear.

Was trying to do a light first coat but had a mixture of issues - primarily caused by carelessness because it was late and I was tired! 
The clear was flowing out a lot faster than the color had done previously as I hadn't adjusted the gun after the base causing me some runs. I hadn't re-wet the floor (painting in a tent in a shed) so I ended up with some inclusions and then I caused some further issues trying to fix things while it was wet.

The main problem areas were on the roof and bonnet. The bonnet had some pretty bad spots so Monday night I had to effectively sand the clear almost totally flat (wet 800, 1200, 2000 grit passes) but I managed to keep out of the base coat. I did the same for the roof but not as aggressively so there's a little bit more orange peel texture left.
The rest of the panels only needed a light de-nibbing here and there, which I did, but now I'm well out of the re coat window I know I'll need to sand the whole thing back.

My question is in relation to the sanding required. As the first coat of clear was light in some places and heavier in others there are some places with a heavy orange peel texture and other places that are pretty flat. If I do a medium sand the flat areas will get an even surface sand but the textured areas will flat the high spots and leave the lower areas with a gloss.
What should I be aiming to do? 

Do I need to flat the entire thing down to 1500g surface texture, even if I end up breaking through to the base in some places, or should I try to flat it as much as possible without touching the base but leaving some low spots with a surface gloss?


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

I would use different papers to suit the area being worked on and aim for an even finish overall.
Also before you start I would check where there are any runs because it often picks up the base paint and redistributes it along along the run usually thinning the top and collecting at the bottom.
In my experience and depending on where the runs are they usually show on close inspection and stand out, through the finish, when shiny and polished. You have to be honest with yourself as to whether you can see them or not. If you can, I would say it is probably unwise to continue if you are after that perfect finish.
It is also usually much more difficult to pick up a job from halfway through and still get a good long lasting result. Paint shrinking back at different rates can cause all sorts of issues as time goes on.
Best of luck but I fear your vehicle may have unfortunately just dished out a lesson.
I think anyone that has done much painting has learned it.


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