# Recommend a sealant to sit atop AG SRP?



## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Hi,

I am a big user of AG products in my valeting endeavours and am looking for a good sealant to use for light coloured cars to follow up a coating of Super Resin Polish.

For dark colours I use SRP (or UDS) + HD Wax but for light coloured cars would prefer to use SRP + a good sealant instead of HD Wax. I have pretty much ruled out the use of Extra Gloss Protection because of the length of time it needs before I can buff off etc. Can't afford to wait around for an hour chewing my fingers! This means I am probably after a non AG product here which is fine.

So what I am looking for is an easy to apply sealant which will sit atop SRP without removing the fillers. One that is quick to apply (and buff off) and gives great results for light coloured cars. Again, don't really have the time to apply a separate glaze, so need something which will add to the gloss already imparted by srp etc.

Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## themk2 (Apr 15, 2012)

I've just been recommended 'C1.5' by Gtechniq, and will be ordering it today. Have a look at the product on their website as it has a video of its ease of use as well as a test of the results! It's also rumored to last a good number of times longer than wax...
Time will tell, but for the price, and the great raving reviews it's getting, it's certainly worth a try!!


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Interesting. I've used some of Gtechniq's products before and they are good yes - if a little expensive though.

Is this a similar product to AG Aqua Wax? It is certainly applied in the same way; though probably not on a wet car.


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## themk2 (Apr 15, 2012)

srod said:


> Interesting. I've used some of Gtechniq's products before and they are good yes - if a little expensive though.
> 
> Is this a similar product to AG Aqua Wax? It is certainly applied in the same way; though probably not on a wet car.


I honestly couldn't tell you buddy, I'm new to sealants myself, having only ever used AG SRP and topping with Turtle Wax... Can't wait to clay, polish and seal my car though now! !


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## Vmlopes (Jan 8, 2012)

Tried Menzerna Powerlock on recommendation from Elite Car Care recently, very easy on and off and leaves a glossy very silky finish, beading is great also


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

How far will one 16oz tub stretch do you think? I mean how many 'typical' applications will I get out of it. Cost is an issue right now.

**EDIT : I look the look of this stuff; seen some posts here on DW with some great results. Think I'll order a tub right now.

Thanks again.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

srod said:


> How far will one 16oz tub stretch do you think? I mean how many 'typical' applications will I get out of it. Cost is an issue right now.


Well I got my bottle About 2 years ago when it first came out. I still got 1/2 left! 

If you were to use it on your own car, being very conservative.....
two coats using 10ml per coat is 25 details. Used every 4 months, it'll last you over 8 years! Every 6 months, over 12! :lol:


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## PugIain (Jun 28, 2006)

CG Blitz is pretty good.


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

Gtechniq C1.5 everyday!!! Super easy to apply, amazing results on light coloured cars!!

But a 100ml bottle first so you can see for yourself, that will do a normal sized car a good 3-4 times and seeig as it lasts for 6 months + you're on to a winner!


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Thanks all. Going to give Menzerna Powerlock a go. The GT C1.5 looks a bit too much like Aqua wax for me and I already carry tons of that stuff as part of my mobile valeting work.

A good sealant for use on light cars is the last ingredient (for now!  ) and Powerlock seems to fit the bill nicely.


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## Adamk69 (Jun 13, 2011)

Bilt Hamber Auto Balm, very nice indeed!! :thumb:


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

srod said:


> Thanks all. Going to give Menzerna Powerlock a go. The GT C1.5 looks a bit too much like Aqua wax for me and I already carry tons of that stuff as part of my mobile valeting work.
> 
> A good sealant for use on light cars is the last ingredient (for now!  ) and Powerlock seems to fit the bill nicely.


Gtechniq C1.5 compared to AG Aqua Wax..........................:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Like comparing a sealant to erm......a banana sandwich!

No offence AG by any means!


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## dis (Feb 3, 2012)

im in the same boat,but was actually thinking of egp!
not so sure now?
do you have to wait so long to buff off?
cant you just use egp on the whole car,and then buff off from where you first started?
that would be about 30/45 mins for me.
please help.

thanks guys


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## cobra (Feb 18, 2012)

I put FK 1000p over AG SRP and it looks amazing - like its been wrapped in plastic
good shine and good beading.

Done a coat waited 20 mins and added another


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Did you have to wait between applying SRP and the FK1000P ?

Easy to apply?


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## Johnr32 (Apr 25, 2010)

srod said:


> Did you have to wait between applying SRP and the FK1000P ?
> 
> Easy to apply?


I dont and its been fine, after srp is buffed off 1000p can be applied straight away. 1000p is easy to apply and very easy off, just make sure its applied thinly (as with anything else)


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## bero1306 (Jan 24, 2011)

Menzerna Power lock or Werkstat


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

aquawax like c1.5 ? No offence OP but get some and you will know that its nothing like it. I would seriously recommend it or give optimum opti seal a try. These are sealants and they give brilliant results, have used aquawax before and it wont last anything like these two. Not used Menz so cant comment, but Im a lazy old sod now and I like these new easy wipe on products.


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## cobra (Feb 18, 2012)

srod said:


> Did you have to wait between applying SRP and the FK1000P ?
> 
> Easy to apply?


no i just buffed off srp and got on with the fk

I thought it would be a bit of nightmare from reading a few posts on here, but in I followed the very thin coat advice it buffs off fine!

the tin is huge and the 2 coats on the car barely made a dent in it!


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

s.bailey said:


> Gtechniq C1.5 compared to AG Aqua Wax..........................:lol::lol::lol::lol:
> 
> Like comparing a sealant to erm......a banana sandwich!
> 
> No offence AG by any means!


Or like comparing a sealant to water in a bottle that smells nice?:lol:


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Thanks all.

Will toss a coin to see if I go for Powerlock or FK1000P.

Ah crap, might just get them both! Reckon I deserve it!  

Next full valet I do (once the products arrive) on a light coloured car, I will add a coat of one sealant or the other for free so that I can compare and contrast the results for myself.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

FK is excellent too and will last you forever. Just learn how to apply it as thin as possible. As when I first got mine I was applying it too thickly and had huge problems removing it. A spritz of QD on your foam pad works wonders and a half turn of the pad in the pot seems to work for me for nice thin layers.
Let us know about the menz and how you find it, as i've heard good things about it, would be great to see your comparison between the two.


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## LostHighway (Sep 23, 2011)

No guarantees as I haven't used AG SRP but Optimum Opti-Seal is as quick and easy as possible: wipe on, walk away, no buffing. It also contains no cleaners so it ought to work. Wekstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger looks amazing on light colors and is also very easy.


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

nicks16v said:


> FK is excellent too and will last you forever. Just learn how to apply it as thin as possible. As when I first got mine I was applying it too thickly and had huge problems removing it. A spritz of QD on your foam pad works wonders and a half turn of the pad in the pot seems to work for me for nice thin layers.
> Let us know about the menz and how you find it, as i've heard good things about it, would be great to see your comparison between the two.


Will do. If I had a car myself (just have my work van) then I would consider sealing half and half in order to do a side by side comparison.

Looking forward to receiving the products.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

srod said:


> Will do. If I had a car myself (just have my work van) then I would consider sealing half and half in order to do a side by side comparison.
> 
> Looking forward to receiving the products.


Why not try it on the van ? say just the bonnet? half and half ?


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## McClane (Dec 9, 2010)

Another vote for fk1000, very versa lite product and have used it over SRP a number of tomes with excellent results.


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## jay_bmw (Jan 28, 2010)

Am i a bit mad or has no 1 suggested the classic EGP that is designed to work with SRP?


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## RedCloudMC (Jul 19, 2008)

Britemax Extreme Elements :thumb:


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

jay_bmw said:


> Am i a bit mad or has no 1 suggested the classic EGP that is designed to work with SRP?


I mentioned that in my original posting. May have to wait too long before I can remove EGP which will be a problem when doing a full valet for a client. My full valet stops at srp, but for an additional fee I will apply an additional layer of protection; either HD wax for dark colours or... a good sealant for light colours. With this addition to my full valet program, I simply cannot afford to wait up to an hour before I can remove egp etc.


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

What I don't get is you've settled on 2 products that have to be applied like a wax, allowed to haze, like a wax and buffed off like a wax and cost circa £20.00 but the Gtechniq C1.5 250ml is the same cost and will be applied and buffed off in a third of the time of the others.

You say you valet cars? So surely time is a major factor??

What about Werkstat Acxrylic Jett, good price and lasts and lasts, takes 15 minutes to apply and remove, same as the C1.5


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

s.bailey said:


> What I don't get is you've settled on 2 products that have to be applied like a wax, allowed to haze, like a wax and buffed off like a wax and cost circa £20.00 but the Gtechniq C1.5 250ml is the same cost and will be applied and buffed off in a third of the time of the others.
> 
> You say you valet cars? So surely time is a major factor??
> 
> What about Werkstat Acxrylic Jett, good price and lasts and lasts, takes 15 minutes to apply and remove, same as the C1.5


dont forget optiseal either, even quicker and you dont even have to buff off and on light cars its one of the best looks wise imho, with regards to ease of use and quickness


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

nicks16v said:


> dont forget optiseal either, even quicker and you dont even have to buff off and on light cars its one of the best looks wise imho, with regards to ease of use and quickness


Thats a very good call!


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

nicks16v said:


> dont forget optiseal either, even quicker and you dont even have to buff off and on light cars its one of the best looks wise imho, with regards to ease of use and quickness


I don't think we're going to convince the OP, I think he's set on a wax style produce that takes 20 minutes just to apply! :wave:


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Remember you want something thats quick, thats going to give you the right results and also last. I've got almost every sealant now, and I'm now just using optiseal just for those reasons. Obviously there may be others that have better beading etc, but for the ease of use and that it take 10 minutes max to do the car, I'd live with that. Your customers wont care. Plus it helps that its one of the best sealants too. Trust me on this one, try it, it lasts forever and you wont regret it honestly.


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

nicks16v said:


> Remember you want something thats quick, thats going to give you the right results and also last. I've got almost every sealant now, and I'm now just using optiseal just for those reasons. Obviously there may be others that have better beading etc, but for the ease of use and that it take 10 minutes max to do the car, I'd live with that. Your customers wont care. Plus it helps that its one of the best sealants too. Trust me on this one, try it, it lasts forever and you wont regret it honestly.


The man speaks sense, spray sealants cannot be beaten for speed and quality and durability.....:thumb:


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

s.bailey said:


> The man speaks sense, spray sealants cannot be beaten for speed and quality and durability.....:thumb:


S.bailey, I was down your neck of the woods on Friday. The lion inn in boreham. Sorry to hijack and go off subject. Out of this world food.


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

Here we go, nice and easy for you:

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/optimum-opti-seal/prod_775.html
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-acrylic-jett-trigger.html
http://gtechniq.com/shop/3s-for-cars/exterior-coatings/c1-5-silo-seal/

Sorted :thumb:


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

nicks16v said:


> S.bailey, I was down your neck of the woods on Friday. The lion inn in boreham. Sorry to hijack and go off subject. Out of this world food.


Funny I looked at the Lion Inn site a few weeks back looking for somewhere to take the missus for Sunday lunch, went somewhere else in the end, will have to give it a go now at your recommendation!! Cheers mate :thumb::thumb:


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

s.bailey said:


> Funny I looked at the Lion Inn site a few weeks back looking for somewhere to take the missus for Sunday lunch, went somewhere else in the end, will have to give it a go now at your recommendation!! Cheers mate :thumb::thumb:


Trust me on this one, I'm proper stuck up when it comes to food places, this is one of the best. Make sure you book a table in the conservatory. Whatever you do or eat try the chips cooked in duck fat as a side. If you have tasted chips any better than those, Ill pay for your meal myself (ok, maybe I wont but you will love them). Seriously good. I'd go there just for them, great service too.


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## Trip tdi (Sep 3, 2008)

Srp + Egp is a great combo, maybe a tip for you, place some egp in a spray bottle, and lightly spritz egp by panel at a time, then buff off, then reapply again.

If you can't wait, then go for The HD wax, then on regular washes, use there Aquawax, stick with the range, you can't go wrong.

If it's the new srp, that's more durable than the older version.


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Bugger, just when I think I have things sorted, and am reaching for my wallet, you go and throw optiseal into the mix, and that really does look good! Can't afford 3 products! 

@s.bailey : I posted because I have little experience with paint sealers and sought some advice. With such questions I was always bound to get a myriad of suggestions, which I welcome and am grateful for, but at the end of the day I have to choose what I feel most comfortable with. The truth is that I never realised that sealers could come in a spray able form and so I likened the c1.5 with a spray on wax like aqua wax (which I think is a good product). I always imagined a sealant to be like a wax or a cream polish etc. and so that was what I was expecting to find. I know different now.

My need of a sealant is just a case of wishing to add something extra to a full valet, but one which would improve the great results I already get from AG SRP and one which would hopefully last quite some time. Again, never imagined a spray on solution could do that.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

srod, Ive done them all except the menz and was once in your position, suppose we all were. So dont panic, there are so many options. Why not get one at a time, saves on the expense.They are all good. I'd start with opti seal first but I'm biased. But also know the others are great too, but opti is so much faster. If you dont like it, sell what you have left to me and Ill buy it off you as Im about to run out. But you wont because you will love it.


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Good advice which I shall follow. Optiseal it will be. Thanks.


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## EVL (Dec 31, 2010)

You don't need to wait an hour before you buff off EGP/hard wax. As soon as you've finished putting it on the car, it should be dry enough to buff off straight away - we do approximately 10 car's a week like this.
Your other option would be Permanon. In my opinion, nothing else (that I've used) gives a shine on silver like Permanon. It's fantastic for sealing wheels too.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Get a microfibre applicator to apply it though, I found it easier than a foam applicator. A couple of sprays on pad to prime it. Then just two sprays for big panels like the bonnet and roof and one spray for the rest. Lightly wipe on and walk away, it will flash off instantly if applied correctly (lightly, you dont have to rub it on), If not then just buff off any residue with a microfibre. If you apply it lightly as you should, you wont need to buff anything at all. The best thing is is that you can layer it , and it looks even better with a couple. But wait a day atleast after the first one.


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## Hoppo32 (Nov 18, 2008)

If the OP is using Srp on his valets then Opti-Seal is not going to work properly, it's very solvent heavy and would remove the SRP. It also needs clean paint to bond properly, no glazes or cleaners or it just wont bond and effect durability.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Hoppo32 said:


> If the OP is using Srp on his valets then Opti-Seal is not going to work properly, it's very solvent heavy and would remove the SRP. It also needs clean paint to bond properly, no glazes or cleaners or it just wont bond and effect durability.


Not had an issue myself with the process, but I stand corrected. I've found that opti seems fine on anything ive used it on top of. But I understand it could dissolve the fillers the SRP puts down. More reason to put another layer of opti on. Or use optimum poliseal instead of SRP? Even better results.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

srod said:


> Bugger, just when I think I have things sorted, and am reaching for my wallet, you go and throw optiseal into the mix, and that really does look good! Can't afford 3


stick to Powerlock. 

I use Opti-seal on glass and wheels, it's good, but you can't use it over glazes like you can with Powerlock. There is a new Opti-seal coming out soon too, so if you want it, I'd wait for that. :thumb:


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

type[r]+ said:


> stick to Powerlock.
> 
> I use Opti-seal on glass and wheels, it's good, but you can't use it over glazes like you can with Powerlock. There is a new Opti-seal coming out soon too, so if you want it, I'd wait for that. :thumb:


Is there? Tell me more Type R ? Im due a refil


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## Hoppo32 (Nov 18, 2008)

The new Opti-seal supposedly has more gloss and better durability, think it was released in the US in the last week or so.


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

Hoppo32 said:


> The new Opti-seal supposedly has more gloss and better durability, think it was released in the US in the last week or so.


Magic, today and this thread has got better and better for me. Now let me wait to see who gets it in to the uk the first so i can try it.


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## LostHighway (Sep 23, 2011)

Hoppo32 said:


> If the OP is using Srp on his valets then Opti-Seal is not going to work properly, it's very solvent heavy and would remove the SRP. It also needs clean paint to bond properly, no glazes or cleaners or it just wont bond and effect durability.


Where is your information coming from? It contradicts to some extent what Optimum says about their own product. They warn against trying to layer it over most carnauba waxes (although topping it with their Optimum Car Wax works fine) but they indicate that is should be compatible with most AIOs and glazes. Optimum spokesman Chris Thomas indicated that it should be fine over Poorboy's Black Hole on their website site forum and I have successfully used it over Poli-Seal AIO.


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

nicks16v said:


> Is there? Tell me more Type R ? Im due a refil


me too! 

It hasn't been released yet, but should be ready soon!


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## Hoppo32 (Nov 18, 2008)

LostHighway said:


> Where is your information coming from? It contradicts to some extent what Optimum says about their own product. They warn against trying to layer it over most carnauba waxes (although topping it with their Optimum Car Wax works fine) but they indicate that is should be compatible with most AIOs and glazes. Optimum spokesman Chris Thomas indicated that it should be fine over Poorboy's Black Hole on their website site forum and I have successfully used it over Poli-Seal AIO.


Trial and error over the last two years is where my info is coming from, it will apply over most things but the polymers wont cross link properly with the paint and will effect durability.
Opti-seal is probably the most solvent heavy lsp on the market so will remove at least some if not all glazes applied beforehand. 
Optimum themselves admit Opti-seal dissolves wax. Waxes are quite tough compared to glazes which have no durability and are easily removed with solvents.
Put it this way the solvents in Opti-seal are that strong you can even remove small tar spots with it. 
I'm not saying it's a bad product as it's not and i still use it regularly. What i'm saying is that it will remove glazes and filler heavy cleaners such as SRP.


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

I wasn't saying buy all 3, I was just giving you 3 links to make life easier ;-)


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

Hoppo32 said:


> Trial and error over the last two years is where my info is coming from, it will apply over most things but the polymers wont cross link properly with the paint and will effect durability.
> Opti-seal is probably the most solvent heavy lsp on the market so will remove at least some if not all glazes applied beforehand.
> Optimum themselves admit Opti-seal dissolves wax. Waxes are quite tough compared to glazes which have no durability and are easily removed with solvents.
> Put it this way the solvents in Opti-seal are that strong you can even remove small tar spots with it.
> I'm not saying it's a bad product as it's not and i still use it regularly. What i'm saying is that it will remove glazes and filler heavy cleaners such as SRP.


Information is absolutely right, SRP is a filler heavy polish.
Any solvent based LSP will strip at minimum 'some' of the previous layer, so especially the fillers in SRP.

:thumb:


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Ah, good info.

Then if I wanted to go down the Opti-seal route I guess that I should probably be using something like Poli-seal first as opposed to AG SRP?

The thing is though that I love SRP and have bucket-loads of the stuff. I can't really afford to put it aside.

What I am going to do then is go for some fk1000p in this first instance. When it comes time to renew my stock of SRP (and if I am not entirely happy with fk1000p) I will take a good look at Poli-Seal and if I can get it at the right price... 

Thanks again; a very informative thread.


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## s.bailey (Mar 2, 2012)

Looks like it's been done before no worries - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=109532

I still think you're anchoring for a good hour to apply and haze and remove though to be fair....it's a wax based sealant and a paste wax at that so you need to get that on very thinly!


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## anthonyh90 (Mar 30, 2011)

i'm surpised no one has mentioned auto finesse tough coat which is meant to be a great spray sealant, although i'm not to sure on its compatability with SRP


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## Hoppo32 (Nov 18, 2008)

Does it have to be a sealent? 
Take a look at OCW (Optimum car wax) it's a sprayable wax that looks fantastic and is so quick and easy to use. 
http://www.motorgeek.co.uk/optimum-formulaalso-gallons-p-167.html


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Hoppo32 said:


> Does it have to be a sealent?
> Take a look at OCW (Optimum car wax) it's a sprayable wax that looks fantastic and is so quick and easy to use.
> http://www.motorgeek.co.uk/optimum-formulaalso-gallons-p-167.html


That's got sealant in it too! 

Fantastic stuff! :thumb:


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## msb (Dec 20, 2009)

anthonyh90 said:


> i'm surpised no one has mentioned auto finesse tough coat which is meant to be a great spray sealant, although i'm not to sure on its compatability with SRP


I agree toughcoats great, but i wouldn't actually class it as a spray sealant, its loads better applied with an applicator:thumb:


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## [email protected] (Sep 11, 2011)

Hoppo32 said:


> Trial and error over the last two years is where my info is coming from, it will apply over most things but the polymers wont cross link properly with the paint and will effect durability.
> Opti-seal is probably the most solvent heavy lsp on the market so will remove at least some if not all glazes applied beforehand.
> Optimum themselves admit Opti-seal dissolves wax. Waxes are quite tough compared to glazes which have no durability and are easily removed with solvents.
> Put it this way the solvents in Opti-seal are that strong you can even remove small tar spots with it.
> I'm not saying it's a bad product as it's not and i still use it regularly. What i'm saying is that it will remove glazes and filler heavy cleaners such as SRP.


I may be of some assistance here, gentlemen. Opti Seal's carrier solvent may very well break the bond of your existing coat, but when used as directed it will position it's self on the paint and allow the previous to redeposit atop the Opti Seal.

To clarify, per directions would mean to wipe on and walk away. If you "work" the product or buff the finish while wet you may remove the base product while in it's limbo state before it readheres to the Opti Seal. If only "wiped on" and left to cure for 24 hours, there should be little or no loss of your base...it will be redeposited atop the Opti Seal. Any smears can be easily wiped the day following the application, but will be a non issue if used sparingly as directed (smears are from overapplication).

With that said, there are some incompatable products that may have conflicting polymers, but waxes should never be a problem and most hybrids will still work fine.

NOTE: I was asked to comment on this thread and am not suggesting our product over another as I am an employee of Optimum...only to offer product information.


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## Hoppo32 (Nov 18, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> If only "wiped on" and left to cure for 24 hours, there should be little or no loss of your base...it will be redeposited atop the Opti Seal.
> 
> With that said, there are some incompatable products that may have conflicting polymers,


The above quote is the point i'm trying to make. The Opti-Seal will remove glaze/cleaners from the paint and maybe deposit them on top of the Opti-seal. So whats the point in using a glaze with it then, the glaze wont be on the paint anymore, it will be sat on top of the Opti-Seal and will be removed first wash.
So my point still stands in that most glazes/cleaners are dissolved by the solvents in Opti-seal.
Imo Opti-Seal works best on bare paint, this way the best bond and therefore durabilty are gained from what is an excellent product.


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## [email protected] (Sep 11, 2011)

Hoppo32 said:


> The above quote is the point i'm trying to make. The Opti-Seal will remove glaze/cleaners from the paint and maybe deposit them on top of the Opti-seal. So whats the point in using a glaze with it then, the glaze wont be on the paint anymore, it will be sat on top of the Opti-Seal and will be removed first wash.
> So my point still stands in that most glazes/cleaners are dissolved by the solvents in Opti-seal.
> Imo Opti-Seal works best on bare paint, this way the best bond and therefore durabilty are gained from what is an excellent product.


You've almost got it, the carrier solvent isn't on long enough to "dissolve" any product...only break the bond to the paint. And, when it redeposits atop the Opti Seal it should bond to the Opti Seal is the same manner as it did to the paint (not coming off with the first wash) because glazes/waxes are applied with solvents too. Usually, if there's a loss of product, it's from wiping/buffing OS instead of just wiping it on and leaving it be. I certainly agree with you that the best bond and durability from OS comes from applying to freshly prepped paint, though.


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## audigex (Apr 2, 2012)

Do you clean the interior? Why not do that while waiting for the egp? I found it only needs about half an hour, although leaving it longer does no harm.


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## srod (Dec 31, 2010)

Always do the interior first me! 

I've ordered some Power lock - looking forward to trying it out.


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