# DODO blue velvet or purple haze



## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

I have a black panther Ford mondeo ( as my name is obviously).
So I have been looking at both Blue velvet and the purple haze for my paintwork.
Both are good for dark paintworks. But one is a hard wax and one a soft wax.
What's the difference between hard and soft waxes? any difference in applaying them?
Which one is more durable and beeds of water the best?

thx


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

any wax is fine on any colour, its marketing talk


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## ms-vxr57 (Mar 25, 2010)

I prefer the purple haze buddy out of the two and i do have them both,but its all down to personal preference


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## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

ms-vxr57 said:


> I prefer the purple haze buddy out of the two and i do have them both,but its all down to personal preference


any difference in application?
I've read somewhere that a soft wax must be applied in thicker layers. is there any thruth in it?


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## Deeper Detail (Oct 31, 2010)

-Kev- said:


> any wax is fine on any colour, its marketing talk


Should you be saying that at every opportunity Kev, as your on the product review team?

I saw a comment like that removed after Dom questioned his professionalism from a reviewer the other day... I do agree with certain colours like white, black, silver etc that you won't see any difference only between, say, the hard or soft waxes in terms of glassy or wetness, but there are differences visible on reds, yellows etc with the colour charged waxes

Is Dom wrong? 
http://www.dodojuice.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=653


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## ian_lawton (Apr 14, 2010)

hey, i have used both today on my midnight black mini, and got great results with both but in the end i did the car in blue velvet and then coated it again in purple haze, i have got to say the purple haze was easier to apply and also buff of but didn't notice much of a difference in the finish when i was testing them.


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## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

so both have the same finish? the pruple haze doesn't have a more wet look?
might go for the hard wax then, because I have the problem of always using to much wax.


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

RuFfBoY said:


> Should you be saying that at every opportunity Kev, as your on the product review team?
> 
> I saw a comment like that removed after Dom questioned his professionalism from a reviewer the other day... I do agree with certain colours like white, black, silver etc that you won't see any difference only between, say, the hard or soft waxes in terms of glassy or wetness, but there are differences visible on reds, yellows etc with the colour charged waxes
> 
> ...


its my opinion, which im entitled to. im just giving people my opinion on whatever the product (s) may be, im not saying that there _isn't_ a difference in looks or you _won't_ see a difference, just that i have'nt - after using all the dodo waxes (bar SN) on various colours in the past and, as far i could see no real difference in looks with good prep before hand.


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## ian_lawton (Apr 14, 2010)

Blackmondie said:


> so both have the same finish? the pruple haze doesn't have a more wet look?
> might go for the hard wax then, because I have the problem of always using to much wax.


To me they both looked the same, although they both gave a superb finish, maybe by them both in pannel pots? thats what i did


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## thehulk2002 (Mar 16, 2011)

Can you use a wax as a sealent ? or not Im going to get some P1 polish and was either going to use the C2 sealent or Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection or a wax not sure what to do can someone advise please


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## Deeper Detail (Oct 31, 2010)

-Kev- said:


> its my opinion, which im entitled to. im just giving people my opinion on whatever the product (s) may be, im not saying that there _isn't_ a difference in looks or you _won't_ see a difference, just that i have'nt - after using all the dodo waxes (bar SN) on various colours in the past and, as far i could see no real difference in looks with good prep before hand.


That's fine mate and everyone is entitled to their opinion like you say, I wasn't questioning your opinion as everyone has one. No offence meant at all


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## MKDK (Apr 10, 2011)

thehulk2002 said:


> Can you use a wax as a sealent ? or not Im going to get some P1 polish and was either going to use the C2 sealent or Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection or a wax not sure what to do can someone advise please


I'd like to hear input on this as well.

I know the difference between sealants and wax, and hear and see a lot people using both. But will the wax (got both Dodo Juice Hard Candy and Colli 476) bind on a sealant? I've got some AG EGP, but I'm thinking that a wax might not come to it's full potential is it applied on top of EGP (with the surface being slick and all).


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## wayne_w (Jan 25, 2007)

Here is my Cooper S wearing Blue Velvet..


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## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

I must say, i really love the "wet" look. But if I can get that same finish with the blue velvet, i'l go for this one then instead of buying both, as I'm afraid of getting the greasy look again as my other thread on here.


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## turboyamaha (Nov 18, 2010)

I have to say I agree with -kev- no difference from what I can tell!!


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

MKDK said:


> I'd like to hear input on this as well.
> 
> I know the difference between sealants and wax, and hear and see a lot people using both. But will the wax (got both Dodo Juice Hard Candy and Colli 476) bind on a sealant? I've got some AG EGP, but I'm thinking that a wax might not come to it's full potential is it applied on top of EGP (with the surface being slick and all).


if you use 476 (which is a wax/sealant hybrid anyway), you'll not need any other form of protection as its very durable


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## james walker (Apr 18, 2010)

ive done purple haze on ink blue mondy, not wet or greasy look just shines.

if you want wet look may be worth looking at some glazes prior to the wax??

or as said buy both from i4detailing in panel pots and enter DODO in the promo code bit for 7.5%off the £5.95 it is for the pane pots, ive done my mondeo st220 twice with haze panel pot and its not a quarter done. less is more remember


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## 888-Dave (Jul 30, 2010)

My advise would be get a panel pot of each and see which one you like best.

Personally I prefer the hard wax range Dodo do but it's such a personal thing and you may like the soft wax application.

From what I can tell the hard wax seems to have a little edge on durability but not much really to report in terms of looks, both look fantastic :thumb:


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## Deeper Detail (Oct 31, 2010)

MKDK said:


> I'd like to hear input on this as well.
> 
> I know the difference between sealants and wax, and hear and see a lot people using both. But will the wax (got both Dodo Juice Hard Candy and Colli 476) bind on a sealant? I've got some AG EGP, but I'm thinking that a wax might not come to it's full potential is it applied on top of EGP (with the surface being slick and all).


With the colli as already stated been a hybrid it won't be necessary but a lot of sealants are fine underneath waxes. Jetseal, just as an example is used frequently under wax. You may not get the product + the product durability but in my experience, you do get a little more. Plus you get the look of a wax over the sealant until that look fades away. Then you have the option to re wax or leave it be until the sealant fails to protect again...


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## GR33N (Apr 5, 2009)

My cars Panther Black with Blue Velvet PRO on it,

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=167476

It wasn't difficult to apply, but id probably say choose Purple Haze over Blue Velvet because I tend to find soft waxes easier to use :thumb:


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## thehulk2002 (Mar 16, 2011)

MKDK said:


> I'd like to hear input on this as well.
> 
> I know the difference between sealants and wax, and hear and see a lot people using both. But will the wax (got both Dodo Juice Hard Candy and Colli 476) bind on a sealant? I've got some AG EGP, but I'm thinking that a wax might not come to it's full potential is it applied on top of EGP (with the surface being slick and all).


So how did I get the wet look mate I was going to polish with P1 Nanocomposite Polish
:thumb: then seal but which one to use that is the question am I right about C2 do you use it as a detail spray sealent or do you apply it directly out of the bottle and then the remainder use as a detailer if so thats not alot of product what about meguiars #21 sealent and autoglym etra protection I am confuesed on which product to get as I have never used them before but just found out that i was doing it all wrong as people say you must seal it.


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## jonezy (Sep 30, 2008)

i prefer purple haze matey, normal or pro, easy on easy off and cracking reflection on a black car!! ive just picked up a black focus so that will be getting the dodo this weekend!


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## Dodo Factory (Apr 11, 2007)

There will be little difference in the look between PH and BV.

The difference is in the texture... PH is softer than the firmer BV recipe, so suits finger/palm application.

You can put any colour wax on any colour car, it makes little real world difference in terms of the look. *Some* people may see a difference but they will be in the minority. We reckon you would need to apply a dark wax on a light car and then panel wipe half to even see the subtle change in hue. Most people just won't see it in real life, like you won't see a 1% tint on a window. But it is there, so saying it doesn't make a difference at all would be technically wrong, even if correct in practice for most people.

You cannae change the laws of chemistry. Coloured oils are going onto the paint, but in a sub-micronic layers... you're not Duluxing it.

What winds me up is that people talk about coloured waxes as if this is some great marketing trick. We NEVER market these as improving, enhancing or changing the colour of a car - because we don't believe they do.

We made light, warm and dark coloured waxes because we had light, warm and dark ingredients to hand - namely ingredients like White Beeswax, Yellow Beeswax and Dark Beeswax - and we wanted to use Coconut oil in some recipes and Montan Wax (a very dark coal wax) in others. When we canvassed opinion, everyone had favourite colours and fragrances, so we decided to extend some choice to consumers with a number of different waxes. All with subtle ingredient changes, textures, colours and smells.

These were divided into a mid-tone wax and three light, warm and dark coloured waxes - according to the ingredients. We then simply said that they *suited* light, warm and dark coloured cars, which they do (why put dark montan wax on a white car... it may darken it a fraction if layered, whether the effect is easily seen or not).

Indeed, we sometimes advise people to use a dark wax on a light car, because they can see where the wax has been during application.

Maybe people have marketed coloured waxes more to themselves than we have... who knows? But you won't find us preaching colour changes or saying one wax will look rubbish because the colour is wrong.

Coloured waxes give variety, are fun and any technical effect is extremely subtle - to our own (oft-repeated) statement and admission. Which is why Supernatural and Supernatural Hybrid are colour-free.


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## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

What would you suggrst then? Is the chance big that I use to much wax with a soft wax? I have some trouble with oil hologramming, and I don't want that again


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## stav46 (Apr 19, 2010)

Hi,
I've recently used BV on a '04 SAAB & PH on a '05 Honda.
Both gave great results and easy to use, my only downfall was that I bought Panel Pots (obviously to sample each) and found it difficult to get it from pot onto my applicator pad, obviously the normal size pots will be easier.
I will try & post pics of both cars later.
stav


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## Dodo Factory (Apr 11, 2007)

Blackmondie said:


> What would you suggrst then? Is the chance big that I use to much wax with a soft wax? I have some trouble with oil hologramming, and I don't want that again


Have you actually tested it on side panels, as suggested?

You need to define whether there is UV damage to the bonnet and boot, or there isn't...

If it is an application problem, change your application technique. But carry on using the same products.

If it damaged paint, then review your application technique. Don't let products dwell, don't use oily products. I would suggest getting the bonnet or roof machine polished, then use a hard wax straight over the top with the minimum curing time to prevent it sinking. You could also try Nanolex or GTechniq after an IPA wipe down. These won't be oily, but I am unsure how they would work on UV damaged paint so do ask the manufacturers for their thoughts and try on a small part of the panel first (inconspicuous area).


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## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

I have tried it on the entire car, and same thing. 
Must say it is very oily stuff I use now, and I think a soft wax contains oil, or more then a hard wax anyway.
I will strip it again, clay, poldh and then wax it again.

What is minimal curing time? I did this with my previous wax, just let it buff for 1-3 minutes, wipe on wipe off, and leave it very long and nothing worked. The waterbeeding is better when I left it on very long.

What's the curing time for both PH and BV? The weather is approx 20 degr in the evening when the sun is down


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## Dodo Factory (Apr 11, 2007)

OK, if you are getting oil holograms over all the car, then you are simply using too much, buffing too early or buffing with a saturated microfibre. You need to apply thin layers, allow much longer to cure (there is NO SET TIME for curing... it could be anything from 5 to 25 mins depending on panel temp, ambient temp and humidity). When it has hazed and gone matt/satin rather than glossy/oily is when it needs to come off. 1-3 mins will be far too little and you will have been spreading fresh wax over your car with the buffing cloth. The beading is better when you leave it longer as it needs to 'cure' onto the panel.

Apply thin layers. Buff after 5-25 mins, when hazed. Use multiple CLEAN microfibres to buff (never use them to apply with). When all residue has been removed, give it an hour and then apply a second coat.

If the paint itself isn't UV damaged, it just comes down to application and buffing technique. Too much wax, buffed insufficiently, will cause obvious oil hologramming on dark coloured cars. It's like applying a load of white gloss to a radiator and then complaining about getting drips. If you apply too much product, it won't work as it should. Wax cures to less than a micron, so if you can see wax residue on the panel, it has enough on it.


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