# Deep scratch repair help



## aymen_a22 (Jun 30, 2013)

My brothers car has a fairly deep scratch in the passenger door. The scratch is about 15cm long and can easily be felt by finger nail but it doesn't look like the scratch is down to the primer. 

The car is a dark metallic blue (r32 golf mk5) and I am wondering whether I should use colour and clear coat to repair or just clear coat?

The process I plan to follow is as follows:

1) Clean the car and scratch. 

2) Alcohol wipe down the scratch. 

3) Apply colour (if needed) with tooth pick but keep the paint shallow. 

4) Apply clear coat with tooth pick layering the paint until slightly raised above the original paint. 

5) Wet sand with 1500 up to 2500 to level. 

6) Meguiars ultimate compound. 

7) Autoglym super resin polish. 

8) Autoglym sealant. 

Thoughts on the process would be great as I don't want to make it worse.


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## Coachman (Mar 8, 2015)

Fill it, de-nib it then compound and polish. Scratch repair will never be 100% perfect but de-nibbing makes it look a lot better. 

Kind of like "you will only see it, if you know it's there"


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## MAUI (Feb 1, 2008)

aymen_a22 said:


> My brothers car has a fairly deep scratch in the passenger door. The scratch is about 15cm long and can easily be felt by finger nail but it doesn't look like the scratch is down to the primer.
> 
> The car is a dark metallic blue (r32 golf mk5) and I am wondering whether I should use colour and clear coat to repair or just clear coat?
> 
> ...


Get a good fine painters brush at a hobby shop and skip the tooth pick. The key to a good repair is to be patient. Don't rush the build up of paint. Wait a day or two between coats.


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## aymen_a22 (Jun 30, 2013)

Do you mean apply colour or just clear coat? 

Do I only need colour if I can see the primer? 

I will Google de-nibbers now.


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## m4rkymark (Aug 17, 2014)

If it's only the clear coat that's been scratched then you only need to fill with clear coat, if it'd through to the primer or metal then you need to colour it first then clear coat it.


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## aymen_a22 (Jun 30, 2013)

So if I can see primer do I just need to cover the primer with a little bit of colour and then fill the bulk with clear or do I fill with colour and then put a little clear coat on top?


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

If you are using toothpick or brush then just use single stage colour paint. Reason being is that the clear will drag and mix with the colour if applied by a mechanical means.

Basecoat must be lacquered, so you need to get solid colour paint made up specifically for touch up use. On a thin scratch the fact that it's not metallic paint you are adding will not be noticeable. Same goes for small chips.


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## aymen_a22 (Jun 30, 2013)

So I need to apply a thin layer of colour. Let it dry then apply a raised crown using lacquer.


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## mr paint (Jul 11, 2009)

This will look real bad if touched up with base coat ! 


R32 deep pearl blue.... requires a black ground coat and then the blue top coat and then clear 


I am not sure how this would look as a touch up :thumb:


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## aymen_a22 (Jun 30, 2013)

So if there is still blue paint in the scratch, should I just use some clear coat and then wet sand and polish?


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## asspur96 (Jan 24, 2014)

You can buy a Chipex kit which has pre mixed paint and clear or use OEM paint and clear and mix together 50/50 if you do this and take time can get some good results here is a pic of a scratch I did using this method you have to really look for it to now!!

Before 


During 


After 


Another angle 


Hope this helps my theory was if I **** it up gonna have to get it repaired anyway as wouldn't want to see it !!


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## aymen_a22 (Jun 30, 2013)

Could you explain what you did please?

Result is brilliant, great effort.


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## asspur96 (Jan 24, 2014)

aymen_a22 said:


> Could you explain what you did please?
> 
> Result is brilliant, great effort.


Ok mate will have a go

1 Washed car then and de tarred using VP tar remover used an ADS CLAY cloth on the door to be sure really clean and free from any other contamination.

2 Using the Chipex Pre mixed paint filled in the scratch and used wife's hairdryer to heat the paint to dry it quicker between coats and built up the paint until it was higher than scratch. While doing this took time probably about 35 - 45 minutes.

3 Using pre soaked wet & dry started at 1500 to take flatten paint in scratch then moved onto 2500 and noticed that I had to add more paint to the scratch and dried again using hair dryer when I felt it was as flat as I was likely to get it I used 2500 and 3000 wet and dry prior to polishing. I was trying to get it as non noiticeable as possible from a couple of feet away. I must stress it is easy to chase a perfect finish and strike through so you should take a judgement and be realistic in what you are trying to achieve.

4 Then using my Da with a Megs MF cutting disc and ssr 1 as had polished the door to get rid of sanding marks this followed with M205 on a MF finishing pad and then waxed with Collinite845

I have a link to a thread with some more pictures including sorting out the stone chips and other marks using the same process

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=356699

Hope this helps as as I said was no way was going to have a scratch like in first pic and wanted to try and see what I could achieve if I took time and had a go:wave:


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