# Mini HVLP guns any good?



## deegan1979

Kicking myself that i sold my devillbiss sri gun last year for pennies.
Looking for a reasonably priced gun for small projects, biggest would be a bumper.
Are these cheap mini hvlp guns any good for a decent finish?
Will be used with 2k and water based paints


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## Princy

For a single panel like a bumper they're fine, I've got one on the Bergen ones for little jobs and it works great, wouldn't want to do something the size of a bonnet with one though


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## squiggs

Mini guns are really best suited to Smart repair but when fitted with a large needle and an air cap to suit they'll be ok for full (small) panels. If you're always wanting to do full panels it would probably be best to go larger.


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## deegan1979

squiggs said:


> Mini guns are really best suited to Smart repair but when fitted with a large needle and an air cap to suit they'll be ok for full (small) panels. If you're always wanting to do full panels it would probably be best to go larger.


Hi squigs, thought ud reply to this.
Was my old devillbis sri clased as a hvlp gun? If so then that all id need.
Gutted i spold it during hard times.
Squiggs do u have a paint mixing scheme? If so would u mix and sell me some paint?


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## deegan1979

And.... What difference is the between cellulose lacquer and 2k lacquer?


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## robdcfc

Yep, your Sri was HVLP, I would use 2k lacquer but you need to wear an airfed mask when doing so. 

Rob 

Ps. Squiggs is never right about anything!!. Ey Glenn??


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## deegan1979

robdcfc said:


> Yep, your Sri was HVLP, I would use 2k lacquer but you need to wear an airfed mask when doing so.
> 
> Rob
> 
> Ps. Squiggs is never right about anything!!. Ey Glenn??


Thanks mate. Was a lovely gun. Sold it for £40!!!
Just looked up new ones and no way can i afford one.
Will these £20 - £30 hvlp guns give as good a finish as my sri did?
And are u a sprayer mate? If so i have a lot of questions to ask


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## Andyb0127

They won't be the same quality as an sri, which should really just be use for smart repairs. I certainly wouldn't use an Sri to paint a bumper or wing. 
These budget guns will probably be fine for what you need, 2k laquer will be better and last longer, 1k laquer isn't really worth it. But with 2k as said it will need to be well ventilated and use an airfed mask. 

Yes I am a sprayer by trade. :thumb:


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## deegan1979

Andyb0127 said:


> They won't be the same quality as an sri, which should really just be use for smart repairs. I certainly wouldn't use an Sri to paint a bumper or wing.
> These budget guns will probably be fine for what you need, 2k laquer will be better and last longer, 1k laquer isn't really worth it. But with 2k as said it will need to be well ventilated and use an airfed mask.
> 
> Yes I am a sprayer by trade. :thumb:


Hi there and thanks for your thoughts.
I used to use my sri when repainting motorbike fairings using 2k products.
No real training except an ex sprayer friend who showed me the basics, tried to self teach myself, this was 10 years ago tho but i managed good results in the end for a DIY'er.
At work we have a very well ventilated small spray booth (3000x2500) which is used to spray kitchen doors and such.
I will be using this but not sure if i should use waterbased or cellulose or even 2k again,:lol: but then id need an air fed mask which are expensive so could do without at least for now while i get back into the swing of things. 
I will be painting some underbody plastic parts, do i need an adhesion promoter or will a plastic primer do on its own? Also is there a high build plastic primer for plastics and does it need to be flexible?.
Loads more questions but ill leave it at that this time
Thanks


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## deegan1979

Hmm just found disposable mask for use with 2k. Must change cartidges after 36 hours.
Also think i will buy a high build cellulose primer as it comes pre mixed, ready to pour. Same as the base coat and mid coats ill be using. So just need to decide on lacquer really.
Does 2k paint require an activator or is it just the lacquer?


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## Andyb0127

deegan1979 said:


> Hi there and thanks for your thoughts.
> I used to use my sri when repainting motorbike fairings using 2k products.
> No real training except an ex sprayer friend who showed me the basics, tried to self teach myself, this was 10 years ago tho but i managed good results in the end for a DIY'er.
> At work we have a very well ventilated small spray booth (3000x2500) which is used to spray kitchen doors and such.
> I will be using this but not sure if i should use waterbased or cellulose or even 2k again,:lol: but then id need an air fed mask which are expensive so could do without at least for now while i get back into the swing of things.
> I will be painting some underbody plastic parts, do i need an adhesion promoter or will a plastic primer do on its own? Also is there a high build plastic primer for plastics and does it need to be flexible?.
> Loads more questions but ill leave it at that this time
> Thanks


Sounds like a panel oven. We have the same at work which is mainly used for bumpers. 
With plastics a 1k plastic primer will do. Apply one coat prior to priming, leave for 5 mins the prime as needed. You can buy it in litres or aerosol. High build primer wise, we repair alot of bumpers at work but just use a normal primer, and never had any problems. So you should be fine. If you've done all this before it will soon come back mate. I've been in the trade along time and i still learn new things as well.


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## deegan1979

Andyb0127 said:


> Sounds like a panel oven. We have the same at work which is mainly used for bumpers.
> With plastics a 1k plastic primer will do. Apply one coat prior to priming, leave for 5 mins the prime as needed. You can buy it in litres or aerosol. High build primer wise, we repair alot of bumpers at work but just use a normal primer, and never had any problems. So you should be fine. If you've done all this before it will soon come back mate. I've been in the trade along time and i still learn new things as well.


Is 1k cellulose?
I'm buying a pair of sata copy hvlp guns, not sure what needles I'll need tho for 1k primer, solvent base colour, solvent mid pearl & the 2k lacquer, any ideas? Also I've ordered a combined moisture trap/pressure regulator, 1500 wet&dry plus scotch pads, panel wipe. So just need a mask and I should be good to go then.
Ur helps appreciated thanks mate


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## deegan1979

How does 1k lacquer compare in use and finish to the more harmfullm 2k lacquer?
Thinking of my lungs and not paying out for an air fed mask


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## Andyb0127

Yeah celly is 1k.
Plastic primer is basically what we call rfu (ready for use), as in pour it in the spraygun and of you go. 
Not sure what set ups the copy's will come in, I tend to stick to a 0.8 set up as that's works for what I need. Sounds like you mostly have it sorted mate.

There is a difference with 1k and 2k obviously, the more modern 2k will hold up alot better and look better, as Most are all hs (high solids) laquers now which are applied by one light coat, then a full wet coat that's it job done. Honestly I wouldn't use 1k is has no where near the gloss or durability of 2k, I know you said about your health, which your correct you want to do it safely. Of course it's upto you which you use.


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## kempe

This is 1k through a mini hvlp gun 0.8









2k clear through a mini hvlp gun 0.8 









1K primer, base coat and clear all through a hvlp gun


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> This is 1k through a mini hvlp gun 0.8
> 
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> 2k clear through a mini hvlp gun 0.8
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> 1K primer, base coat and clear all through a hvlp gun


All look great!! So 0.8 needle it is then.
Which clear did u find easiest to use? The 2k looks really shiny


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> All look great!! So 0.8 needle it is then.
> Which clear did u find easiest to use? The 2k looks really shiny


I use loads of different ones the one I found really good I cant remember the name but will let you know when I pop to the garage. Its good to have a few in different sizes as I spray flake some time and a bigger needle is always handy.

I have around 9 guns now but all of the mini hvlp sort


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## kempe

Its a 2K crystal clear Anti-Scratch


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> This is 1k through a mini hvlp gun 0.8
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> 2k clear through a mini hvlp gun 0.8
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> 1K primer, base coat and clear all through a hvlp gun


Did u have to thin the paint more than the recommended amount with a 0.8mm setup?
And what set up did u use for undercoat? Cheers


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Its a 2K crystal clear Anti-Scratch


 Found it at a brighton mixing co. Now just need to look into a 2 stage paint in electric orange rather than applying the perl seperatly


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Did u have to thin the paint more than the recommended amount with a 0.8mm setup?
> And what set up did u use for undercoat? Cheers


Paint was thinned down 50/50 with thinners, Clear was just as it came and priming was

Wheels - acid etch 
Bumper - plastic primer


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Paint was thinned down 50/50 with thinners, Clear was just as it came and priming was
> 
> Wheels - acid etch
> Bumper - plastic primer


Cheers buddy.
Been looking at guns and i can either get 2 ebay sata replicas for £20 or a bergen for £30 ish. Wish i could afford another devilbiss.
Any guns you would recommend sub £50 preferably eith 2/3 cups ?


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## craigeh123

You having a go at that bumper yourself then mate &#55357;&#56842; make sure you post piccies , i want to learn to paint


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## deegan1979

craigeh123 said:


> You having a go at that bumper yourself then mate �� make sure you post piccies , i want to learn to paint


Hi mate :wave:
Well ur half right. Got a new rear bumper in primer a while back along with a load of under bonnet plastic covers that I plan to colour code.
And 3 days ago I managed to split a bit of my front bumper :devil:
Haven't sprayed for 10 years, so plan to practice first on the under bonnet bits.
When I feel I can use this colour well enough, it will be the turn of my R6 to be painted in the same colour. Then.... If happy ill do both bumpers, even if it takes a while I can live with the minimal damage.
Found some pre thinned base and perl , but looking for a firm that can supply the 2 mixed together as I'm only just starting again.

Got the spray booth sorted but need a gun or two as I used to like having 1 for colour and 1 for lacquer. Cant spend a fortune but want something that will give a good finish so looking at Bergen hvlp's with 0.8 mm needles.
Also trying to work out if I need to apply an adhesion promotor before a plastic primer/undercoat.
Loads to think about, and want to buy the right things, hence my post


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> This is 1k through a mini hvlp gun 0.8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2k clear through a mini hvlp gun 0.8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1K primer, base coat and clear all through a hvlp gun


Kempe, what black did u uae on those alloys? Lovely flakes


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## carfix

Re the Paint. There are many different types of paint systems,but in the main, A factory car finish will have undercoats like etch coat and primer, then the colour coat known as the base coat , and then the lacquer. This is called "Clear over base". This is always the case for metallics and pearl paint. It is normal now for these to be made with a high water content, but used to be all solvent. 
The K in paint stands for Kompensu, in German. In English this translates as Component.
1K paint has 1 component, where paint is joined by solvent to thin it and get it out of a small hole in the nozzle which ios achieved by pressurising the can with a gas. When the solvent evaporates in the air the paint dries. Most Rattle can paint is 1k . Places like Halfords will sell you a solvent base coat, which you have to put a clear top coat over. It is quick and easy to use but has disadvantages in that it is less hardy than 2k, the high solvent content, usually +60% makes it volatile so it can react with older paints etc underneath, and its generally shunned by the trade as the primitive nozzle makes it hard to achieve a quality result in the main. Ik is known as RFU as it is ready for use without mixing.
2K has two components, the paint has less solvent but has an extra seperate component we call Hardener which when mixed starts a chemical reaction that cures the paint. Generally the 2K has superior qualities in finish as it has less solvent, goes thru a better quality gun with clever aircap that atomises the paint better , and durability is better too. There are Hardeners that give faster or slower drying times, depending on what the painter needs. The Clear lacquers also come in value ranges, scratch resistant, top quality shine etc. Paints have changed too, these days there is more solid and less thinners in them so you will see names like UHS for Ultra High Solids which can now be used as the gun technology has improved, but more of that later. 

You can buy 1K to go thru a Gun, and the poor reputation of Smart Repair probably stems from the fact that before we all went "water based " thru legislation in 2006, many were using a 1k top coat which was not known for longevity. These days the reputable sprayers all use 2k, simular to bodyshop paint but with a faster hardener for spot repair use. 

There are exceptions, some solid coats are 2K but the clear and colour coats are already together so you only need to paint the vehicle once , and mixed with hardener before application. This is used on vans and trucks, and some cheaper cars. You can tell if you have this paint as the colour comes off with polish like t-cut. It also usually fades and oxidises as it doesnt have a uv protector added. Anyone seen a pink BMW that comes up red after a good polish ? 
You can also get a rattlecan with 2k in. You tap the bottom which releases the hardener in the the can and after a couple of hours if you havn't used it, its hard in the can
Guns.
Older guns needed large quantities of air to get the paint out and atomised at up to 20bar and needed bigger compressors, but legislation has resulted in guns that use less air but atomise the paint well, so there's less bounceback, and solvent getting in the air.These are called HVLP High volume, low pressure. A small Iwata LPH80 has a .7mm nozzle or aircap, can be used at 1bar so theres virtually no bounceback where unused paint escapes in clouds, it was designed to do spot repairs so although if you had enough time and a slow hardener in the paint,could do whole bumpers and doors, is not ideal for a whole panel but a Devilbis SRi with aircaps up to 1.3mm can do spot repair and whole panels easily. Larger gns like Devilbis GTi are more for multi panel application. There are cheaper guns from places like Machine Mart that do the same thing but without as much finesse. If you are painting say a full bumper though, a cheaper gun will happily do that well. Where an Iwata LPH80 scores over the cheaper guns, is its ability to mimic an original finish in a small repair. It is a very sophisticated piece of kit and need knowledge and experience to get the most out of it, A good sprayer will be able to blow in patches in places that wouldnt be possible with lesser guns, and just like putting one of us in a F1 Red Bull, without those abilities , it would be hard to get the most out of it.
Hope that explains it a bit better.


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## deegan1979

carfix said:


> Re the Paint. There are many different types of paint systems,but in the main, A factory car finish will have undercoats like etch coat and primer, then the colour coat known as the base coat , and then the lacquer. This is called "Clear over base". This is always the case for metallics and pearl paint. It is normal now for these to be made with a high water content, but used to be all solvent.
> The K in paint stands for Kompensu, in German. In English this translates as Component.
> 1K paint has 1 component, where paint is joined by solvent to thin it and get it out of a small hole in the nozzle which ios achieved by pressurising the can with a gas. When the solvent evaporates in the air the paint dries. Most Rattle can paint is 1k . Places like Halfords will sell you a solvent base coat, which you have to put a clear top coat over. It is quick and easy to use but has disadvantages in that it is less hardy than 2k, the high solvent content, usually +60% makes it volatile so it can react with older paints etc underneath, and its generally shunned by the trade as the primitive nozzle makes it hard to achieve a quality result in the main. Ik is known as RFU as it is ready for use without mixing.
> 2K has two components, the paint has less solvent but has an extra seperate component we call Hardener which when mixed starts a chemical reaction that cures the paint. Generally the 2K has superior qualities in finish as it has less solvent, goes thru a better quality gun with clever aircap that atomises the paint better , and durability is better too. There are Hardeners that give faster or slower drying times, depending on what the painter needs. The Clear lacquers also come in value ranges, scratch resistant, top quality shine etc. Paints have changed too, these days there is more solid and less thinners in them so you will see names like UHS for Ultra High Solids which can now be used as the gun technology has improved, but more of that later.
> 
> You can buy 1K to go thru a Gun, and the poor reputation of Smart Repair probably stems from the fact that before we all went "water based " thru legislation in 2006, many were using a 1k top coat which was not known for longevity. These days the reputable sprayers all use 2k, simular to bodyshop paint but with a faster hardener for spot repair use.
> 
> There are exceptions, some solid coats are 2K but the clear and colour coats are already together so you only need to paint the vehicle once , and mixed with hardener before application. This is used on vans and trucks, and some cheaper cars. You can tell if you have this paint as the colour comes off with polish like t-cut. It also usually fades and oxidises as it doesnt have a uv protector added. Anyone seen a pink BMW that comes up red after a good polish ?
> You can also get a rattlecan with 2k in. You tap the bottom which releases the hardener in the the can and after a couple of hours if you havn't used it, its hard in the can
> Guns.
> Older guns needed large quantities of air to get the paint out and atomised at up to 20bar and needed bigger compressors, but legislation has resulted in guns that use less air but atomise the paint well, so there's less bounceback, and solvent getting in the air.These are called HVLP High volume, low pressure. A small Iwata LPH80 has a .7mm nozzle or aircap, can be used at 1bar so theres virtually no bounceback where unused paint escapes in clouds, it was designed to do spot repairs so although if you had enough time and a slow hardener in the paint,could do whole bumpers and doors, is not ideal for a whole panel but a Devilbis SRi with aircaps up to 1.3mm can do spot repair and whole panels easily. Larger gns like Devilbis GTi are more for multi panel application. There are cheaper guns from places like Machine Mart that do the same thing but without as much finesse. If you are painting say a full bumper though, a cheaper gun will happily do that well. Where an Iwata LPH80 scores over the cheaper guns, is its ability to mimic an original finish in a small repair. It is a very sophisticated piece of kit and need knowledge and experience to get the most out of it, A good sprayer will be able to blow in patches in places that wouldnt be possible with lesser guns, and just like putting one of us in a F1 Red Bull, without those abilities , it would be hard to get the most out of it.
> Hope that explains it a bit better.


Thank u for taking the time to post that helpfull info,
My previous spraying experience was with a 100litre compressor and the sri gun.
I used 2k primer but would u revommend these new rtp cellulose primers?
I used colour matched paint from a local paint supplier, it was pre mixed and ready to paint (thought it was 2k) but now not sure. Lastly i used 2k lacquer.
Eventually i was able to paint and lacquer to a high standard requiring very little work after, however that was 10 years ago and i wad doing it every day.
Im sure it wont come back to me too quickly but i am in no rush.
Would u recommend an iwata hvlp gun then? I dont really want to spen more than £50 for now so was looking at sata copies or bergen


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## sfstu

that was a really useful informative post carfix...:thumb: thanks for taking the time...

deegan1979, i'm following your thread with interest as have long wanted to start spraying, and due to upcoming house move, i will be getting a double garage  so thinking of a small compressor and a cheapish gun to start out with...?

i have a rear bumper for my van that that needs to be sprayed and the front bumper also has quite a bit of paintloss on the corners and could also do with painting...would like to colourcode some other parts too, though most are small enough to do with an aerosol...
have only really sprayed with aerosols before but have managed to do some surprisingly good jobs with them but it usually depends on nice warm weather...i know i need to use a gun for a bumper and its also just something i'd love to be able to do...:thumb:

plus, i just can't justify spending the money in the bodyshop, but i _could_ talk a compressor and gun past mrs sfstu on the grounds that the cost would be offset against any future repairs/painting that i could do...
rgds stu


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## deegan1979

sfstu said:


> that was a really useful informative post carfix...:thumb: thanks for taking the time...
> 
> deegan1979, i'm following your thread with interest as have long wanted to start spraying, and due to upcoming house move, i will be getting a double garage  so thinking of a small compressor and a cheapish gun to start out with...?
> 
> i have a rear bumper for my van that that needs to be sprayed and the front bumper also has quite a bit of paintloss on the corners and could also do with painting...would like to colourcode some other parts too, though most are small enough to do with an aerosol...
> have only really sprayed with aerosols before but have managed to do some surprisingly good jobs with them but it usually depends on nice warm weather...i know i need to use a gun for a bumper and its also just something i'd love to be able to do...:thumb:
> 
> plus, i just can't justify spending the money in the bodyshop, but i _could_ talk a compressor and gun past mrs sfstu on the grounds that the cost would be offset against any future repairs/painting that i could do...
> rgds stu


Cool, its a nice feeling doing something well for yourself, ull enjoy it im sure.
I wouldnt get too small a compressor, as it will always be refilling and not good if ur painting. 50L is good and u might get away with a bit smaller.
Good mask and ventilation too. Gerson do some good ones for 2k or 3m do loads too.
Im just unsure about the gun. I want a hvlp and a mini hvlp but worry the quality and finishing capabilites of the cheap ones might effect my overall finish.
Got to make a desision soon tho.
Aerosols are good but i think a spray gun is more fun!


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## sfstu

deegan1979 said:


> Cool, its a nice feeling doing something well for yourself, ull enjoy it im sure.
> I wouldnt get too small a compressor, as it will always be refilling and not good if ur painting. 50L is good and u might get away with a bit smaller.
> Good mask and ventilation too. Gerson do some good ones for 2k or 3m do loads too.
> Im just unsure about the gun. I want a hvlp and a mini hvlp but worry the quality and finishing capabilites of the cheap ones might effect my overall finish.
> Got to make a desision soon tho.
> Aerosols are good but i think a spray gun is more fun!


yep, i love being able to do jobs for myself, why i got into detailing...:thumb:
will bear that in mind regarding the compressor...its something that'll have to wait a few months yet due to house move and finances but something i'm starting to really consider and to read up on...
will be on a budget myself when i do come to get stuff but i think with the gun, it needs to be a case of buy the best you can afford...:thumb:


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## carfix

Hi Fellas

The thing about HVLP guns is that they are usually expensive to buy, but unless you are experienced and using them all the time, you may not get the best out of them for the extra outlay. Iwata 80 are around £200 each, but if you are doing a full bumper or door say, a £40 copy from Machine Mart will be indistinguishable as you are not having to match within the same panel.

I paint patch repairs on cars for a living but although I have some expensive guns, I dont need a big compressor. I have a £120 Clarke which needs 1.5hp and provides 8cm of air into a 25 ltr holding tank. This is enough to drive smaller guns but you would be hard pushed to do a whole car with it as the engine would be on full time with a GTi. For spraying now and then , but whole cars, you would need at least a 3hp 50 ltr compressor. To match the guns air needs, look at the cubic metre output of the compressor which should be bigger than the guns needs. Usual HVLP guns run at 7 to 14 cm .

Deegan, your SRi would be quite happy with a £100 25ltr 1.5 hp compressor, You can use cellulose primer, but I prefer the 2k Lechler Green Ti which has far superior build , is gentle on the substrate, i.e not pickling the edge of the paint underneath, and sets quickly so it can be layered to a ridiculous degree ( if i'm repairing a scratch, its often easier not to fill , but to gently pass a couple of layers of primer over and rub down instead.) The clean up is horrible with all primers, and you really should use a 1.3 aircap at least to get that thick stuff out, I use an old Iwata 300 gun, but if you get it right its like levelling the area with double cream and very easy to self level most jobs.

I have tried the new waterbased primers and although it is saving the planet, they are poor in their ability to take a good flatting ( you have to sand them dry) and its easy for them to rip up.) The undercoat you used will have been 1k if it needed a lacquer over it, and was probably solvent based 10 years ago. ( these days it'll be waterbased but you don't have to touch it apart from layer the 2k lacquer over it.) Although there is less harmful fumes from todays paint, its still not a good idea to get a lungful, so use a mask and dont hang around if youre in an enclosed space like a garage as the solvent lingers in the air for hours unless you have a breeze blowing thru.
Bumpers were mentioned, and its important to spray on an interlayer on the clean plastic to help it stick to the next coat. If you've ever seen a defect that started as a small chip that takes off a dinner plate sized skin of paint when power washed, you can bet it didnt have the grip layer. Easiest way to do it is with a Halfords spray can of it, cant remember what its called but it says on the can that its used as an undercoat for bumpers.


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## craigeh123

looking forward to seeing the r6 , reckon black belly pan and numberboards and wheels that will look sweet !


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## deegan1979

Ive hit a snag.
2k primer, adhesion promoter? Mini hvlp and 2k safe mask ordered.
Problem is now paint.... Ford electric orange code 6fse oe paint is waterbased 3 stage pearl.
I can get 3 stage solvent online however ive heard it is available in 2 stage which would be better for me.
Probem is all 3 suppliers ive called say there are 5 or more varients of this colour and even scanning the paint wont be good enough.
Any ideas ? Short of ordering 5 different testers and trying each


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## robdcfc

Did you get white primer as that's what you'll need for the orange to cover? 

It's available in 2 stage in Nexa I think!


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Kempe, what black did u uae on those alloys? Lovely flakes


Its basic 1k gloss black the flakes are in the clear coat :thumb:


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## deegan1979

robdcfc said:


> Did you get white primer as that's what you'll need for the orange to cover?
> 
> It's available in 2 stage in Nexa I think!


I got white and grey mate. But I'll use the white for this.
Next, ok I'll ring more suppliers tmrw and see if I have any luck. Thanks for that


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Its basic 1k gloss black the flakes are in the clear coat :thumb:


Looks great, can u remember what flake it is? Does having a flake in the clear play any probs with detailing/polishing?
Ordered myself a mini hvlp in 0.8 set up like u have. Where I bought it from they told me I'd need a gun with 1.3 needle for the 2k primer, but I'm assuming I can add extra thinner and will need more coats.
Cheers kempe


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## deegan1979

Found a good site called specialistpaints for some nice custom colours, not sure what kind of paint they are tho but some pretty funky paints tho


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Found a good site called specialistpaints for some nice custom colours, not sure what kind of paint they are tho but some pretty funky paints tho


Thats the company I just all the time This is there deep candy red that I painted my mini with


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Looks great, can u remember what flake it is? Does having a flake in the clear play any probs with detailing/polishing?
> Ordered myself a mini hvlp in 0.8 set up like u have. Where I bought it from they told me I'd need a gun with 1.3 needle for the 2k primer, but I'm assuming I can add extra thinner and will need more coats.
> Cheers kempe


The flake is ok what you do is spray a few coats with the flake in it then you go over the top with just clear to seal in the flake and give a smooth finish


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## kempe

What does your set up have so from the compressor to the gun?


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## deegan1979

50L compressor with moisture trap, and 2 cheap ebay specials mini hvlp at 0.8.
That mini looks great!! May be stupid but what type of paint is the specialistpaint? Water,solvent?


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> 50L compressor with moisture trap, and 2 cheap ebay specials mini hvlp at 0.8.
> That mini looks great!! May be stupid but what type of paint is the specialistpaint? Water,solvent?


Its celly there laqure is great it gives a great gloss finish and thats 2K. What are you looking at spraying?


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Its celly there laqure is great it gives a great gloss finish and thats 2K. What are you looking at spraying?


Under bonnet bits first, battery cover, fuse box cover engine and cambelt cover. If they go ok then my R6.
Just dug out my airbrush as I'll be doing any writing on the bits with it.
Would the base coats I've used previously that didn't need an activator have been cellulose?
And.... Sorry to go on, if I don't get a great finish with my base paint at first, can I wet sand it before applying the clear? Or would that ruin the finish if it's mettalic?


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Under bonnet bits first, battery cover, fuse box cover engine and cambelt cover. If they go ok then my R6.
> Just dug out my airbrush as I'll be doing any writing on the bits with it.
> Would the base coats I've used previously that didn't need an activator have been cellulose?
> And.... Sorry to go on, if I don't get a great finish with my base paint at first, can I wet sand it before applying the clear? Or would that ruin the finish if it's mettalic?


Yeah if they were spray straight on then they would of been 1K


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Yeah if they were spray straight on then they would of been 1K


Cheers, and celly needs to be thinned right?
I like the look of those paints at specialists, after seeing your black alloy I'm tempted to buy 250ml of their black base and some flakes! Your flakes look multi coloured, we're they different colours u mixed or a holographic one?


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Cheers, and celly needs to be thinned right?
> I like the look of those paints at specialists, after seeing your black alloy I'm tempted to buy 250ml of their black base and some flakes! Your flakes look multi coloured, we're they different colours u mixed or a holographic one?


Its the holographic one, celly needs to be thined with celly thiners. One tip make sure you mix enough paint for what your painting its a killer running out and then having to mix it again only to find its a bit off :thumb:


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Its the holographic one, celly needs to be thined with celly thiners. One tip make sure you mix enough paint for what your painting its a killer running out and then having to mix it again only to find its a bit off :thumb:


Lol cheers, I'll bare that in mind mate, I've got tiny 125ml cup so I'll mix up more ready to pour as I need it


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Lol cheers, I'll bare that in mind mate, I've got tiny 125ml cup so I'll mix up more ready to pour as I need it


When Ive done wheels I mix up about 1litre and then store then rest in a bottle stays good for ages and then it saves me mixing for another set


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> When Ive done wheels I mix up about 1litre and then store then rest in a bottle stays good for ages and then it saves me mixing for another set[/
> Ages as in while working, or weeks and months?
> How did u judge the flake amount in the clear mate? Looks like u didn't go mad with it, nice and subtle


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> kempe said:
> 
> 
> 
> When Ive done wheels I mix up about 1litre and then store then rest in a bottle stays good for ages and then it saves me mixing for another set[/
> Ages as in while working, or weeks and months?
> How did u judge the flake amount in the clear mate? Looks like u didn't go mad with it, nice and subtle
> 
> 
> 
> I have a bottle in the garage that I mixed about 3 months ago and its still fine
> I do it all by eye I have clear mixing cups so just add a bit mix and see what it looks like :thumb:
Click to expand...


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> deegan1979 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a bottle in the garage that I mixed about 3 months ago and its still fine
> I do it all by eye I have clear mixing cups so just add a bit mix and see what it looks like :thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> Cool. Thanks for your help kempe, ur work on that mini looks ace! Think u may be hearing from me now and then so ill apologise now
Click to expand...


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> kempe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cool. Thanks for your help kempe, ur work on that mini looks ace! Think u may be hearing from me now and then so ill apologise now
> 
> 
> 
> No worries if there is any thing I can help with I will :thumb:
Click to expand...


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## deegan1979

Crikey paint can be expensive!
Today i ordered 2 different electric orange paints, the main difference with this colour being that the earlier oe batch is slightly darker from a little extra red in the base and the later batch is a tad lighter thanks to more yellow in the base.
I managed to get a 2 stage in the later varient by a nexa scheme, but the origional darker tone is a 3 stage so should be fun considering i havnt painted for a decade!
Then thanks to kempe i put an order in with specialistpaints, high gloss 2k clear, black cellulose base along with 50g of dry black holographic flake , and from their airbrush range, silver course mettalic base, blue mettalic pearl, airbrush thinner, clear base mid coat.
All came to nearly £200, 
So the colour scheme for my underbonnet plastics will be mainly electric orange pearl, with a fair amount of black base with a holographic flake, writing will be silver with the ford badge background in blue.
Heres the practice bits


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## kempe

Looking forward to the finish buddy :thumb:


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Looking forward to the finish buddy :thumb:


Im sure ill be asking u lots mate, never used celly before so be prepared for a barrage of questions! Like...... Lol
Ok to use high build 2k primer through the mini hvlp with a 0.8 or 1mm needle? And to apply the flake? (i got the larger flake)


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Im sure ill be asking u lots mate, never used celly before so be prepared for a barrage of questions! Like...... Lol
> Ok to use high build 2k primer through the mini hvlp with a 0.8 or 1mm needle? And to apply the flake? (i got the larger flake)


Did you get the 200 or 400 microns flake


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Did you get the 200 or 400 microns flake


400 mate, they were on special.
Have i gone too big?
Another worry is being out of practice if i dont get the base finish spot on, can i let it dry and gently wetsand before the clear ? Or is that a no no with celly


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> 400 mate, they were on special.
> Have i gone too big?
> Another worry is being out of practice if i dont get the base finish spot on, can i let it dry and gently wetsand before the clear ? Or is that a no no with celly


You can sand it back thats not a problem the only thing is the size of flake its twice the sice of what I have used so you may need a 2.0 gun which is a full size gun


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> You can sand it back thats not a problem the only thing is the size of flake its twice the sice of what I have used so you may need a 2.0 gun which is a full size gun


Cool thanks for that, and ill change the flakes to 200, ordered 2 minis one with 0.8 and one with 1.0 setup.
Was going to use the 1.0 for primer. And maybe flake if needed


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Cool thanks for that, and ill change the flakes to 200, ordered 2 minis one with 0.8 and one with 1.0 setup.
> Was going to use the 1.0 for primer. And maybe flake if needed


Strange question but do you have big hands


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## deegan1979

kempe said:


> Strange question but do you have big hands


Haha, id say average. im guessing these mini hvlp guns are tiny then?
How much smaller are they than my old devilbiss sri then?


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Haha, id say average. im guessing these mini hvlp guns are tiny then?
> How much smaller are they than my old devilbiss sri then?


The thumwheel at the bottom of the gun for me any  My little finger is on it took me a full gun stripdown and clean before I noticed I had turned it off :lol:


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## Liamc

Do you datasheets for the paint your going to spray? They are needed of you want to reduce the chance of problems. They'll state what size tip fpr the gun, the air pressure, wait time between coats etc.

I've used these guns for primer (1.7 tip), Metalic base and clear, and single stage solids (1.4 tip).
Seem to be great for the money.

Also for your air setup have a look at this site.


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## deegan1979

Liamc said:


> Do you datasheets for the paint your going to spray? They are needed of you want to reduce the chance of problems. They'll state what size tip fpr the gun, the air pressure, wait time between coats etc.
> 
> I've used these guns for primer (1.7 tip), Metalic base and clear, and single stage solids (1.4 tip).
> Seem to be great for the money.
> 
> Also for your air setup have a look at this site.


Thanks mate hopefully the paints will arrive with data sheets or instructions.
Ill take a look at the link


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## craigeh123

holo flake is bloody awesome , such an effect for sod all money


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## deegan1979

craigeh123 said:


> holo flake is bloody awesome , such an effect for sod all money


Have a look on specialistpaints website.
Some pretty cool colours.


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## deegan1979

Kempe, apparently specialistpaints range are modified acrylic paints?
Is that posh for cellulose?


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## turbom

Have read through this thread and will be investing in a couple of cheap mini hvlp guns as i have some engine bay bits to paint.Thanks great info there..


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## kempe

deegan1979 said:


> Kempe, apparently specialistpaints range are modified acrylic paints?
> Is that posh for cellulose?


No buddy different things I didnt know that


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## kempe

Acrylic can be thinned out with water but dries water resistant


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## craigeh123

Yeah ive been on specialist paints great site ! My wheels where originally hollow flaked until i kerbed them and thought sod this and just gloss blacked them


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## deegan1979

robdcfc said:


> Did you get white primer as that's what you'll need for the orange to cover?
> 
> It's available in 2 stage in Nexa I think!


Thanks for the nexa tip mate.
I finally managed to get the ICI paint code reference for my car, its known as the lighter shade. 
A supplier near me can supply it in 1 stage 2pak or 2 stage base and clear ( i thought only solid colours were made in 2k?), what do u guys think i should choose?
Anyway its primer time.
I ordered light grey high build primer
But now ford have said i need a coloured primer but wont say what colour.
Halfords say red primer, u recommended white, the paint supplier sais yellow , and a ford specialist i called say its a light grey paint with a matting agent added to make it primer.

Can anyone say for definate what primer this colour needs?


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## Andyb0127

With that colour your primer will need to be white.
If you want I can check for definate at work tomorrow on our system. See what it says for ford electric orange, I'll take a pic of it and post it up for you. Our system is glasurit.


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## deegan1979

Andyb0127 said:


> With that colour your primer will need to be white.
> If you want I can check for definate at work tomorrow on our system. See what it says for ford electric orange, I'll take a pic of it and post it up for you. Our system is glasurit.


Thanks andy thats really helpfull. the ford paint code is 6FSE however
The ICI reference code of my actual cars paint is
6DYAB/G. Its referred to as the lighter shade.
Will the fact that im not doing it in the OE 3 stage waterbased paint have any effect on the primer colour i should use.
The supplier i will be using recommended yellow primer.
However a ford specialist that can match in nitro cell sais his systems states light grey only.
Also mate is it right that the supplier is offering me both single stage 2 pak and 2 stage base then pearl? not sure which to go for.
Thanks again. Luke


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## deegan1979

Oh and another thing. Ford said the 'G' in the code refers to the colour of the ground coat, whatever that means. Ive just read on another forum that a brown ground coat must be used after primer but that doesnt seem right to me


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## Andyb0127

Not a problem mate.
Leave it with me once I have a look on our colour system, I'll b able to give you a better answer, it probably will require a ground coat, but brown doesn't sound right to me either, once I've got the relative information on our system ill take pics aswell so you can see the answers to what you require. :thumb:


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## Mondeo220

I use Sata Minijet 4's, solid gun which can do small corners or something bigger if you want..










Near enough the whole side of this XC-90.

The cheapy guns are ok, i use them for solid colours and wheels.

Did a silver bonnet the other day just for a laugh. Its only a 1.0mm fluid tip, went on perfect.


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## Kenny Powers

Just read through the entire thread - how did you get on in the end deegan1979?


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