# Garage floor Tiles



## VXT Tim (Mar 27, 2006)

Will standard ceramic tiles be sufficient for my garage floor.

Just wondering if they can cope with the weight of a car?
As long as they are put down properly i can't forsee any problems.


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## Needs a clean (May 24, 2008)

http://dynotile.co.uk/default.htm

Not sure about the ceramic tile mate. I was looking at this for my new garage though.


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## VXT Tim (Mar 27, 2006)

Thanks, i was after a shiny reflective black to be honest.

It seems quite reasonable and am sure it'll do the job (probably better), but tiling will be about £100 cheaper.


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## Ultra (Feb 25, 2006)

as long as the tiles are layed properly all should be ok, can be slippery tho,
thinking of doing my workshop floor as the grey floor paint looks pants lol.


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## VXT Tim (Mar 27, 2006)

Friends have painted the floor and i think it looks terrible, parts of it always end up wearing and coming away.


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## HalfordsShopper (Jul 8, 2008)

I'd be a bit worried about normal ceramic tiles being very slipery.

I painted mine with non-slip floor paint and even then it can be quite dangerous riding the motorbike in when its wet, with the rear wheel spinning up all over the place.

I don't suppose it will be as much as a problem if you only put the car in there, but then ceramic tyles are going to be much more slipery than non slip paint.


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## VXT Tim (Mar 27, 2006)

Car never goes out in the rain but thanks, i'd not considered slippy as a problem!

Surely granite tiles would be even worse as they are polished to a high finish.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

You can get proper garage tiles, racedeck. Purpose built. You could also go for quartz tile, this is popular stateside. 

I don't know about ceramic, they would have to be thick and plenty of support with no flex i.e. no ply lining etc, just right onto the concrete floor. 

I got my old garage floor painted grey with proper industrial floor paint not BnQ stuff and it lasted about 1 year before I had two small patches which lifted but it was a hell of a lot cheaper and it was resistant to staining too. The reason it lifted was because of hot tyres sitting on the paint, but I always put the car into the garage straight away, if I left it to cool I don't think it would have lifted at all.


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## VXT Tim (Mar 27, 2006)

Cheers for the posts.

Just for information i've spoke to a few people and ceramic apparently will not sufice.

I've found some porcelain tiles. Pics of my garage makeover to follow!


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## PTAV (Nov 10, 2007)

looking forward to pics!!


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## TUBS (May 9, 2006)

Go for porcelain tiles but not polished porcelain, use good adhesive such as BAL Motobond, this is used in car showrooms !!

http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/motobond


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## cvs04 (Jan 2, 2007)

A client has natural slate which is rough so non slip but I bet it cost a fortune!

I'm also thinking of the Dynotile system for my workshop.


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## B17NNS (Feb 4, 2008)

cvs04 said:


> A client has natural slate which is rough so non slip but I bet it cost a fortune!


Riven slate can be had on e-bay for about £10 per m2.

It needs to be laid on a continuous bed (no dabs or it will crack). Also needs to be sealed now and again but should be very durable and slip resistant.


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## Thehappysailor (Apr 16, 2008)

Just remember tiles are like women, lay them right the first time and you can walk over them forever.


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

If your going on a slab you need to put them on a decoupling membrane that will allow the slab to move slightly without cracking the tiles. You need 100% coverage of tile adhesive under the tiles and use at least a 12mm notched tile.


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## m500dpp (Feb 17, 2006)

I used cast off carpet tiles from work, much warmer and more comfortable and free!


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## VXT Tim (Mar 27, 2006)

Well i have the tiles. They look great.

My garage floor isn't level and the tiles are 600x600.

So job 1 is get the floor level, self leveling solution going down this weekend.

I have not decided on what is the best way to actually lay the tiles. 
Full coverage is an obvious essential, however i have so much conflicting advice about adhesive.
As they are porcelain, the guy at the shop said i must buy this porcelain tile adhesive.
Another person told me that was rubbish, he was only trying to sell me that because of the £££ benefit to him (it was bloody expensive)

A couple of people have mentioned they need to give slightly like Plankton has said.

My latest thought is cement mixer, full coverage then lay the tiles on that, i can't see why they would crack!?!?!?!


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

You need to use a white adhesive for light porcelain tiles and a grey one for dark ones, the colour can bleed through the tile. You need to make sure that the adhesive is suitable for porcelain,it is standard with most flexi concrete based adhesives, he is trying torip you off if you just get a porcelain one. If the backs of the tiles are smooth you will have to also back butter them.

You won't need a cememt mixer as you will be using smaller amounts, you will need to work in 1sqm areas, just mix a bag at a time in a bucket. You must use a flexi adhesive and lift one tile per sqm to check coverage, you want to see a complete splat of adhesive, you don't want to see any ribs.

Remember for setting out to use the 3 4 5 rule against a known square wall.

Anything else let me know as I can advise you where to get adhesives from at trade.


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## VXT Tim (Mar 27, 2006)

Thanks for the advice, greatly appreciated.


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## SteveOC (May 26, 2007)

VXT Tim said:


> So job 1 is get the floor level, self leveling solution going down this weekend.
> QUOTE]
> 
> Interested to know what you are using for this?
> ...


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## VXT Tim (Mar 27, 2006)

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?isSearch=true&fh_search=self+leveling&selected=products


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