# Spraying with areosols



## greasehog (Feb 23, 2012)

Hi
I'm about to respray a rust repair using rattle cans i've used them a few times before but what i would like to know is.. why does the lacquer always dry up dull? it's never glossy like the rest of the car. I did my wing mirrors a while ago put 2 coats of lacquer on them but when they dried they where dull. 
This time i'm doing a wing and i really need it to be glossy to match the car..

Do i need to rub it down after? 

The paint i'm using is satin red it's a metallic paint 

I've searched on here but can't find an answer relevent to my question..
Thanks...


----------



## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Honest opinion it's because it is aerosol 1k laquer, it will never produce the same quality or finish as 2k laquer. :thumb:


----------



## greasehog (Feb 23, 2012)

Oh i see... so there's no chance of getting the 2k in a can then?


----------



## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Yes mate you can get 2k in aerosol cans, but I don't know what there like as I've never used them.

Here's a link for some 2k Aerosol clear by mipa, I've used there paints in the past and had good results with it. :thumb:

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...P6m9ld&usg=AFQjCNF08WNdYOb2vsGsXqib7LQWexKUXQ


----------



## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

Andyb0127 said:


> Honest opinion it's because it is aerosol 1k laquer, it will never produce the same quality or finish as 2k laquer. :thumb:


Not directed at the O.P (sorry for the hi-jack and forthcoming rant) ... but can I add to the above - a spray can in the hands of 'Joe Public' is no match for the correct product in a spray gun in the hands of an experienced sprayer :thumb:
Sometimes it beats me why people with little or no experience of spraying have a go at their pride and joy using cheap products, and cheap equipment (cans) and then wonder why it doesn't look as good as if a pro had done it :wall: (Rant over - thanks I feel better for that )


----------



## Damien (May 8, 2011)

You'll do well to get the same finish tbh.
I've sprayed a good few sets of rims with rattle cans. I always wet sand the clearcoat down after and then polish it back up so you could try it first if you wish.


----------



## waqasr (Oct 22, 2011)

Main reason the clear is drying dull is because it needs wetsanding and buffing back up. Also give it more coats of clear, atleast 5 or 6 and you will see the gloss start to build up. Ive used Mipa 1k clear aerosols before and got a VERY good finish on my spoiler..looks pretty much factory, ill get some pics in the morning


----------



## SurGie (Aug 6, 2010)

Only use an air fed mask with any 2k paint.

It is a good idea to wet and dry sand the base coat paint with around 1000grade paper, then apply 2 thin coats of lacquer with the 3rd coat being a medium sort of coat. Never have the panel too hot during the lacquering. Agreed that the lacquer does look better with flatting down then polishing.

Im sure you can get close to the original paintwork but to be the same is hard especially with 1k stuff. Try not painting too close to the workpiece with the light coats.

Its a bit like when exotic furniture is lacquered with french polish, lots and lots of very fine coats to build the shine up. The paint also has to be glossy after painting, if the base coat is too thin N dull then that could be the cause.


----------



## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

yeah id use the 2k ones if you can ...might still need a good buff up

1k stuff looks poo even with a spray gun , its low quality stuff really


----------



## gavlar1200 (Nov 25, 2011)

There is a place in Northampton called select paint supplies where I get all my spraying supplies. He mixes paint while you wait, has all the associated bits and bits and bobs to do with painting. I painted my bandit with rattle cans and 2k laquer from this guy and the match is spot on.


----------



## greasehog (Feb 23, 2012)

squiggs said:


> Not directed at the O.P (sorry for the hi-jack and forthcoming rant) ... but can I add to the above - a spray can in the hands of 'Joe Public' is no match for the correct product in a spray gun in the hands of an experienced sprayer :thumb:
> Sometimes it beats me why people with little or no experience of spraying have a go at their pride and joy using cheap products, and cheap equipment (cans) and then wonder why it doesn't look as good as if a pro had done it :wall: (Rant over - thanks I feel better for that )


Thanks for all the info guys i'll try the wet sanding etc...

I'm not exactly a novice, i'm pretty good with a spray can :thumb:

it's just that the lacquer never seems to shine and now i know why....

The piece that i'm respraying is only about 3 inches in wide and 2 high i got a quote from a body shop and it was £100


----------



## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

SurGie said:


> Only use an air fed mask with any 2k paint.


Very sound advice.
2k paint and more especially lacquer is very bad for your lungs.


----------



## jason7474utd (Aug 21, 2010)

£100 For a wing sounds about right if it was a medium to large size bodyshop a smaller bodyshop or one man band might be a lot less! as said 1k allways goes dull when the solvents evaporate as theres a lot more solvent than laquer in the cans! with any rattle can even the 2k ones they lose gloss after about 3-4 months as there not true 2k other wise they would go off in the can the whole point in 2k is they dry by chemical reaction as soon as heat hits the two componnants but even with no heat they go off and would go hard in the can. You will never get the same finish with a rattle can as pro will in a bodyshop or unit. apprenticeships arent 5 years if you can just pick up a rattle can and do as good a job no matter how good you think you are. If your going to keep the car either spray it with the correct products or get a pro todo it especially on a body panel.


----------



## Millo777 (Feb 28, 2012)

I suppose it's safe to say that if the op had the facilities to use an airfed mask, he'd probably not be using rattle cans?

2K via an aerosol is available in pre-catalysed cans, as per jason7474utd's post above, or proper 2k cans which have a screw device on the bottom which breaks a seal and mixes the 2 sections within the can. I believe the pro xl 2k clear falls into the later category.

The main reason 2k in an aerosol is a pita is that without an infrared lamp to cure the paint, it will take far longer than 1k to dry, and hence is much more likely to end up covered in dust and crap before it hardens.

Also, unless you've used 2k basecoat there is a slight chance that the 2k clear will react with the basecoat and then you'd have to do the whole job again. Not as likely as it used to be, but some custom mix aerosols are still cellulose based and may react.

Going back the OPs actual question. Not all paints are the same, so starting with a good quality product is half the battle. Something like U-pol clear, the power cans are a lot cheaper than the retail versions, will give a better finish than say simoniz acrylic.

Other than that, I guess it comes down to time honoured advice given previously of plenty of thin coats, then wet sand back and polish.


----------



## greasehog (Feb 23, 2012)

Thanks for the info etc.... I probably will get it sprayed by a pro eventually just wanted to cover the patch the best i could for now using the rattle cans. then at least it will be protected from the elements....


----------

