# Winter Detailing Tips Thread



## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Okay, prompted by the thread about pre-ice treatments for windscreens and as we're heading into the detailer's most hated season, we're bound to get no end of threads asking for or giving out tips and advice relating to winter detailing. I thought, to aid everyone, we could have them all together in one sticky thread.

So, if you've got any tips, or practices you've picked up over the years to help with anything relating to detailing and the cold weather, then here's the place to post them :thumb:


----------



## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

QD and wipe down as often as possible (every day is best) can see your car through winter. Unless it's a horrible day and the cars filthy, in which case a 2BM wash is where it's at.

Also make sure to thoroughly wax your car guys, inc door shuts and sills


----------



## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

not tried it myself, but ONR is probably a god send for alot of people this time of the year


----------



## MattDuffy88 (Apr 6, 2009)

When you go out to clean the car wrap up warm and look after your hands, cooling water will suck the heat out of your hands quicker than you realise!!

If you do use water to defrost the car, only use lukewarm water - Too hot and you severely risk cracking a windscreen.

If your wipers are frozen in place, leave them to defrost or use a deicer, pulling them off can rip the rubbers.

Don't leave your PW where it might freeze, if the water freezes in the pump it can crack the pump casing (another reason why you MUST use antifreeze in the coolant system in winter, or you might end up with a cracked engine block)

Don't use ice scrapers on plastic light clusters and lenses, they'll end up scratched and scuffed.


----------



## chunkytfg (Feb 1, 2009)

A decent prep is key with a decent long lasting wax/sealant on it to help the dirt cling less.

Frequent 'no touch' washes where you literally snow foam, PW rinse, Snow foam and then rinse again. Then every 3 weeks or so wash properly, 2bm etc, and top up the wax if needed.

At the end of the day when the roads are damp, salty and horrible you only have to pop to the shops for the car to be minging so best to admit defeat when aiming for perfection and instead aim for the car coming out of the other side with the paint work in as good a condition as possible from infrequent touching


----------



## ksm1985 (Dec 27, 2008)

chunkytfg said:


> you only have to pop to the shops for the car to be minging so best to admit defeat


i cannot be defeated, i will keep my car shining!!! lol

good tips though folks

clean your wheels as the grit/salt/sand/crap sticks inbetween your spokes, a total pain to clean off when dried in


----------



## Prism Detailing (Jun 8, 2006)

If washing your car at night, ensure you dry inside the doors rubbers otherwise your car may freeze up and you will struggle to get into the car in the morning (I have been there a few times in the past lol)


----------



## MattDuffy88 (Apr 6, 2009)

If your car isn't garaged, park it somewhere so the morning sun will hit it to help defrost it (if possible).


----------



## Shiny (Apr 23, 2007)

Empty your hose pipe. I have mine on a reel and just disconnect the ends and keep slowly spinning until it is empty (good old Archimedes).

Or alternatively, with it unrolled and disconnected at each end, lift up one end and walk the length of the hose, feeding it through your hands above your head and use gravity to empty it.

Nothing worse than going to wash your car on a nice day and finding out your hosepipe is frozen solid.


----------



## Strothow (Oct 29, 2009)

MattDuffy88 said:


> If your car isn't garaged, park it somewhere so the morning sun will hit it to help defrost it (if possible).


Sun, where?


----------



## Maggi200 (Aug 21, 2009)

Lol, I've given up on my car this week, first week I've not washed it since I got it I believe! :doublesho now people think I'm normal  

I've found a garage on my daily route with a pressure washer that I stop off at and give it a rinse every couple of days in between washes if it's not too dirty, nice and quick and it's under shelter so a bonus for me. 

I've also promised to detail 2 cars christmas eve so I hope it's not too cold then! Gloves a must methinks


----------



## MattDuffy88 (Apr 6, 2009)

Was nice and bright here this morning


----------



## caddyman (Dec 2, 2008)

use a small fan heater in your van set upto a timer socket set to come on at 6:00am

Place where it is safe to do so in your van - run extension cable to a socket in your garage 

heats your van inside to a nice toasty morning reception and keeps everything frost free inc your windscreen


----------



## tmagnet (Feb 27, 2009)

caddyman said:


> use a small fan heater in your van set upto a timer socket set to come on at 6:00am
> 
> Place where it is safe to do so in your van - run extension cable to a socket in your garage
> 
> heats your van inside to a nice toasty morning reception and keeps everything frost free inc your windscreen


Just remember to unplug it before driving off :lol:

Got a diesel heater in the back of mine, makes a lovely difference. Turn it on while I drive to work and it's nice and warm by the time i'm there 
Just thinking about a tubular heater connected to an inverter for the front now. Was not fun having to de-ice the inside of the van today


----------



## pdv40 (Sep 11, 2008)

Viper said:


> all together in one sticky thread


...mmmmm sticky thread :lol:


----------



## duffy02 (Mar 6, 2009)

Shiny said:


> Empty your hose pipe. I have mine on a reel and just disconnect the ends and keep slowly spinning until it is empty (good old Archimedes).
> 
> Or alternatively, with it unrolled and disconnected at each end, lift up one end and walk the length of the hose, feeding it through your hands above your head and use gravity to empty it.
> 
> Nothing worse than going to wash your car on a nice day and finding out your hosepipe is frozen solid.


As this has happened me before, you can fix it(if you get caught letting it happen) by pouring warm water over the hose, thus melting the water inside!:thumb:


----------



## Gary-360 (Apr 26, 2008)

Don't feel guilty about going to a Polish/Albanian/Kosovan car wash, just get a SF and power-wash, no sponges or brushes please 

Let's be honest, most of us will only be foaming and rinsing 3 times out of 4 anyway, so why freeze your knackers off? Let someone else do it for £4 whilst you sit in warm comfort listening to Radio 2 

You're not going to tell if you use them anyway....are you 

Gary


----------



## HEADPHONES (Jan 1, 2008)

1 pair of stretchy, thin, ladies wooly gloves under a pair of washing up rubber gloves. Warm water.

Hands stay warm and dry and you still maintain a little dexterity:thumb:


----------



## Deep blue (Sep 21, 2009)

Shiny said:


> Empty your hose pipe. I have mine on a reel and just disconnect the ends and keep slowly spinning until it is empty (good old Archimedes).


Extremely remember to disconnect that end what is putted to incoming water pipe. I dont know is hydrant right word for it, but I believe that everyone will get my point Otherwise pipe will be frozen and damaged. What causes that the water from net will run freely. In the worst-case scenario you going to have water damage in your house.


----------



## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Disclaimer*

The information contained herein is believed to be true and accurate; however we make no guarantees concerning the veracity of any statement. Use of any information on this page is at the reader's own risk. The detailing methods set out here have been adapted for special use and may not be the same as those recommended by the product manufacturer, and you may experience different results from those stated. When in doubt always use common sense

*Article Revisions / Updates*

The advent of new materials like detailing clay, micro fibre, polymer coating, nano-particle technologies and new micro abrasives are examples of why it's so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis

*Winterize your car*

*Vehicle Mechanical Preparation* (as recommended by ASE)

•	*Engine Performance *- Get engine driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good repair shop. Cold weather makes existing problems worse. Replace dirty filters-air, fuel, PCV, etc.
•	*Fuel *- Put a bottle of fuel de-icer in your tank once a month to help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Note that a gas tank which is kept filled helps keep moisture from forming.
•	*Oil -* Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual -- more often (every 3,000 miles or so) if your driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips.
•	*Cooling System *- The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled as recommended. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.)
•	*Windshield Wipers* - Use the right windscreen fluid; together with proper wipers, an antifreeze solution will keep your windscreen clean at all times Replace old blades. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad (winter) blades to fight ice build-up. Change wiper blades; PIAA Super Silicone boosts your driving clarity, improve safety, and last longer 
•	Apply an anti-fogging' product to windscreen; Glass Science Fog Clear Gel prevents interior fogging of the windshield, windows, and mirrors. One clear coat creates a moisture absorbent barrier that prevents the formation of condensation. Maintain optimum visibility in humid, rainy, or cold weather conditions, Fog Clear keeps working to maintain optimum visibility. Stock up on windshield washer solvent-you'll be surprised how much you use
•	*Heater/Defroster* - Test heater, rear screen defrosters and hoses The heater and defroster must be in good working condition for passenger comfort and driver visibility. . Carry an ice-scraper.
•	*Battery -* The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly. Removal of cables can cause damage or loss of data/codes on some newer vehicles. Check your manual. Have your battery and its charging system checked ('jump' leads may be useful for you, or to help someone else) 
•	*Lights -* Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean road grime from all lenses.
To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.
•	*Exhaust System *- Your vehicle should be placed on a lift and the exhaust system examined for leaks. The trunk and floor boards should be inspected for small holes. Exhaust fumes can be deadly.
•	*Tyres -* Worn tyres will be of little use in winter weather. Examine tires for remaining tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Check tyre pressures once a month. Let the tyre "cool down" before checking the pressure. Rotate as recommended. Don't forget your spare, and be sure the lifting jack is in good condition.
•	*Brakes -* your brakes; if the brakes are not performing well, the car may pull to one side when stopping.

*Notes:* 
_1.	Take along emergency supplies; Scraper, gloves, sand and snow shovel in trunk (plus a good flashlight) are indispensable. 
2.	If you are storing your vehicle for the winter see article "Vehicle Long-Term Storage" _

*Winter detailing -* the vehicle's paint system, tyres, glass, plastic and other exterior surfaces will be at the mercy of the elements, including wind, rain, sleet, snow, sand, gravel, and road salt. Autumn is your best opportunity to inspect and prepare your car for the ravages of winter, by providing the exterior paint system with a polymer or acrylic protective layer to provide a durable protection. Your car's paint, tires, leather and rubber trim all need attention, even if you have cared for them all summer.

*Washing your vehicle in Winter *
Optimum No Rinse™ Wash & Shine is an innovative product that protects automotive paint, while preserving our most valuable resource, water; enabling you to wash your car anywhere, anytime even inside your garage. It's a multi-purpose product that serves as a shampoo additive, no rinse wash, quick detailer and clay lubricant.

Use as a winter car wash or in areas that have hosepipe ban, water usage restrictions, or where a water supply is not readily available (apartments, car shows, etc; cleans and protects while minimising water usage, 100% environmentally safe and it reduces water usage to a fraction of a conventional car wash, 1- oz ONR per 2- gallons of water to wash the entire car.

When sprayed on a dirty surface; surfactants break down the soil by releasing its surface tension or bond with the surface, encapsulating the soil particles, and the polymers provide surface lubrication to enable safe (marring free) removal (For further information see the technical article " Rinseless Car Wash" )

1.	Apply a paint protection sealant (Zaino or Klasse) and then an LSP for extreme conditions (Collinite's Super Doublecoat Auto Wax (476s) and / or Insulation Wax (845) or Finish Kare FK1000P)- use a damp applicator, work the wax into the surface to ensure a very thin layer, allow to dry for approx one hour (do a swipe-test) remove the residue with a clean micro fibre towel, its durable enough to resist salt, grit and repeated detergent washings, protection will last approximately 4-6 months
2.	Change oil with suitable winter rating and change oil filter 
3.	Apply dressing to the interior surfaces (especially leather upholstery) Clean and vacuum the carpets Install all-weather floor mats; Weathertech ™ Premium all-weather floor mats, made from natural heavy-duty rubber., Deeply sculpted channels that trap Water, Road Salt, Mud, and Sand, designed with anti-skid ridges to prevent shifting, won't curl, crack, or harden in sub-zero weather, with non stick finish for quick and easy cleanup, TUV Approved, manufactured to ISO 9000 Standards, 10-Year Warranty 
4.	Clean, treat, and dress your tyres and apply a wheel surface sealant. Spray the inner wheel wells with Chemical Guys 'Bare Bones' spray it on sub frame, springs, wheel wells, fender wells, etc. and it provides valuable protection from road dirt, road salt, etc.

*Products-*
1.	*Intro-Tech Automotive Snow Shades* protect your windshield with four frost-stopping layers. Keep your windshield clear and ice-free during the coldest of winter seasons. Outer clear coating, silver aluminium foil film and mesh lining stops snowflakes from collecting. And, a black vinyl inner layer snuggles your glass to keep it from freezing. Plus, these snow shades are custom-made to cover every inch. Easy to store, just roll it up into its convenient carrying case and toss in your trunk or back seat. And, you can enjoy your snow shades for many chilly seasons to come - Intro-Tech backs them with a Lifetime Warranty http://www.autoanything.com/
2.	*Ice Remover-*strong enough to rip through thick ice, The Ice Master removes ice four ways! The patent pending design features repositionable blades that lock into different positions to suit the job at hand. Clear hard ice, thick ice, frost, and snow with this ingenious windshield ice scraper. Three deburred brass blades effectively remove ice from windows and mirrors without scratching. Hard polycarbonate teeth break thick ice. The Ice Master is made with gloved hands in mind. Each position can be achieved with a simple push or pull motion
3.	*Stratmosphere Ultimate Snowbrush - * this new innovation finally brings you the technology you need to save your car's finish this winter. It has Genuine Boar's hair bristles that stay firm, even when wet so it's kinder to paint finishes than any other snowbrush. Prior to the Ultimate Snowbrush you have probably damaged your finish by using synthetic-based (plastic) snowbrushes that leave all sorts of scratches and swirl-marks on your finish (stratmosphere ultimate snowbrush)
4.	*Sno Brum -* a telescoping squeegee that removes snow from the windshield without scratching. Clearing snow off the windshield is just part of the challenge, the rest of the car carries a heavy blanket of snow that obscures vision, blocks the radiator, and covers taillights. And on my 4x4, a foot of snow can pile up on the roof, creating a hazard for following vehicles. Using a snow brush in one direction only, remove the bulk of the snow accumulation leaving perhaps a ¼- inch of snow on the paints surface, then let the remaining snow melt from the heat from the vehicle
5.	*The Ice Master *- removes ice four ways! The patent pending design features repositionable blades that lock into different positions to suit the job at hand. Clear hard ice, thick ice, frost, and snow with this ingenious windshield ice scraper. Three deburred brass blades effectively remove ice from windows and mirrors without scratching. Hard polycarbonate teeth break thick ice. The Ice Master is made with gloved hands in mind. Each position can be achieved with a simple push or pull motion
6.	*Winter Car Mats *- Rubber Floor Mats made out of natural heavy-duty rubber (WeatherTech® Classic™ Premium) These all-weather mats have deeply sculpted channels designed to trap water, road salt, mud and sand. Made of up to 16 lbs. of pliable natural rubber, these mats won't curl, crack or harden in sub-zero weather. They also have anti-skid ridges to prevent shifting in your vehicle and come with a protective, non-stick finish to make cleanup quick and easy. They meet FMVSS302 standards; TUV approved and comply with ISO 9001 standards Colours available- black (with red pinstripe), Tan or Grey - WeatherTech® Classic™ Premium

*Information resource* 
1.	Automotive Detailing Inside & Out; a Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist, by Jon Miller
2.	TOGWT™ Series of Detailing Articles, by Jon Miller

*© TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2009, all rights reserved​*


----------



## Blazebro (May 18, 2007)

Invest in a snow foam lance and some Actimousse+, makes washing a breeze.


----------



## mattsbmw (Jul 20, 2008)

Any one recommend some car friendly thin water proof gloves?

As for keep in the car clean i use ONR as regularly as possible.


----------



## CliveP (Feb 1, 2009)

Gents,

I recommend something I use in my other hobby (which is keeping koi carp). Get yourself a pair of pond gloves. Use these for your 2BM wash and your hands will stay warm enough that you'll maintain full use of your fingers!
Other advantage is these gloves go up to around the elbow meaning you don't get water inside them even when giving your wash mitt a good rub over the grit guard at the bottom of your wash buckets!

Regards,
Clive.


----------



## remal (Dec 10, 2007)

stunning thread and good read


----------



## snapsnap (Jul 18, 2008)

A winter essential is a warm wolly hat. Makes an amazing difference to your body warmth.


----------



## Reflectology (Jul 29, 2009)

I have a product made for me which to be honest is bob on, waterless wash, shampoo, foam wash and all from raw naturally sourced ingredients, I also use it diluted as a detailer which all in all saves me shed loads of money.

my essential products for winter are...

******THERMALS******BIG WOOLLY HAT********As MANY PAIRS OF SOCKS I CAN GET ON.

and car friendly gloves I get from a little shop called makro....like the sound of those pond gloves though


----------



## lockley (Mar 8, 2009)

*cold washing*

well did mine yesterday,

what a nightmare living here at this time of year, the neighbours think i have lost it totally......

this is after 6 days on winter roads, the water was freezing with the suds on the car:doublesho followed by a few things i do differently when its freezing..........


























my two tips are lots of hot water, i had to rinse with hot water also. it seemed to dry the cars panels quicker, to stop freezing. dried with drying towel and then the second tip Dodo red mist takes 5 mins to do car:thumb: to top up protection on my fk1000p.

roll on the spring:thumb:

one clean one just to cheer me up..










regards nathan


----------



## CRAGGLE (Dec 30, 2009)

clickheat.eu have a look

i saw them in cardiff they look great


----------



## Danno1975 (Mar 30, 2009)

Did mine yesterday after about 6 weeks. The smell of bilberry reminded me of summer and made me do a little cry. Top tip is to be safe afterwards and put grit/salt down on any water you get on the pavement because if you cause an ice rink and some one falls you got the moral and possible legal implications, worst you might slip over .


----------



## rusey93 (Dec 24, 2008)

CRAGGLE said:


> clickheat.eu have a look
> 
> i saw them in cardiff they look great


My dad owns a mobility shop and he sells these :thumb:

Great things! used them so many times! Pretty cheap too


----------



## The Cueball (Feb 8, 2007)

Best tip I have got, is to stop wasting time and money, and money and time trying to keep your P & J clean and free of grit/salt etc etc...

Park it up somewhere safe, and get a run around, with just enough tax and MOT to last through the winter weather, I have seen 'decent' ones starting from £200...

:thumb:


----------



## m33porsche (Jun 10, 2007)

The Cueball said:


> Best tip I have got, is to stop wasting time and money, and money and time trying to keep your P & J clean and free of grit/salt etc etc...
> 
> Park it up somewhere safe, and get a run around, with just enough tax and MOT to last through the winter weather, I have seen 'decent' ones starting from £200...
> 
> :thumb:


Not a bad idea - wonder what you can get for £200????

reminds me of a top gear episode when they bought a knackered old volvo for a drive from London to er, Glasgow, I think. Compared to the price of flying or train I think it worked out cheaper.

TBH if I did buy an old car it would probably handle better than mine in the snow anyway...:doublesho


----------



## cfherd (Jan 14, 2010)

Shiny said:


> Empty your hose pipe. I have mine on a reel and just disconnect the ends and keep slowly spinning until it is empty (good old Archimedes).
> 
> Or alternatively, with it unrolled and disconnected at each end, lift up one end and walk the length of the hose, feeding it through your hands above your head and use gravity to empty it.
> 
> Nothing worse than going to wash your car on a nice day and finding out your hosepipe is frozen solid.


If you are using a PW you can just turn off the water and disconnect the hose at the tap end then use the power of the PW to drain all the water. Good practice even in summer.


----------



## Empire1 (Feb 12, 2010)

Ive got i van and a car the car i drive on to the drive way so the windowscreen is near the house and the van i reverse up, and in the mornin the van as froze but the car is ok dont get it.


----------

