# DA and Process



## Detailjunkie (May 31, 2015)

Okay, so I'm starting to get more and more into detailing having in the past done everything by hand and using off the shelf products.

So the question is I have are with polishing as in broad spectrum.

I'm not so bothered about the polishers themselves, more the process.

What are all the different pads for?
Do different polishes work better with different colour cars?
Are there multiple processes like there are with decontamination?

Any and all help is much appreciated as this will be my next investment for my car.


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## Coachman (Mar 8, 2015)

Each colour pad equals a different lev of cut. 

I sure someone will post the link with the reference.


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## Detailjunkie (May 31, 2015)

Yeah, I'm just looking for like a guide or resources that I can research it on.

Is it cutting, polishing and refining pads? and what do each one do to the paint work. Is it like a less abrasive pad against the paint?


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## Coachman (Mar 8, 2015)

Let me give you an example, on my 2011 mustang, a chemical guys white pad with m205 finishes it perfectly because the paint is soft.


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## camerashy (Feb 9, 2014)

There are a few charts showing pad colours and uses and compound abrasiveness etc will try to dig them out.
Dave


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Machine correction is a process of abrasive stock removal, and subsequent refinement of the scratch pattern until it passes beyond the human optical spectrum, appearing as a homogenous reflection and gloss. The number of steps involved varies depending upon the paint hardness (Soft paint is easy to correct, but challenging to refine. Hard paint is tough to correct, and easy to refine.), and the depth of the defects. Compounds are very aggressive cutters, but do not typically finish with a perfect gloss, and need to be followed with 1-2 finer polishing steps. Finishing polishes have finer abrasives, which do not remove as much material, but create a higher gloss due to their finer scratch pattern. Intermediate polishes fall in between the two. Polishes are graded by their 'P-Grade'; the lowest grit of sanding scratch they can remove when paired with the most aggressive pad.

The types of abrasives used in liquid polishes fall into three general categories: diminishing (These start out aggressive, and automatically refine due to friction over a certain length of time.), non-diminishing (These stay at a conistant size throughout the polishing process, but their depth of cut is controlled more through pressure.), and hybrids of the two. In liquid polishes, abrasive particulates are held in suspension by a lubricant consisting of solvents, oils, and emulsifiers. The technique each type of polish is used with differs, and is to an extent adaptable to match the application.

Different polishes can create different optical effects, which can suit certain colours better, but this is a matter of minutia, and is something of an arcane subject. For the most part, different polishes suit different paint hardnesses and defect depths, which is not typically subject to colour with modern urethane clearcoat paint technology.

Pads can be largely subdivided into two categories, and several sub-categories, starting with foam, and textile. Afterwards, open-cell and closed-cell foam, microfiber and wool textiles, then more obscurely, denim, velvet, felt, rayon, etc. The first four are the ones you need to concentrate on when beginning. How pads influence cut is a little more complicated, but essentially the structure of the pads influence how abrasives cluster, how the swarf is controlled, and how much the abrasives are isolated from the surface. Bigger clusters, less isolation, and larger surface areas for abrasives to cling = more cut, deeper scratch pattern. Finer clusters, lower surface areas, and more isolation = less cut, finer scratch pattern. All pads have some degree of natural abrasiveness, but compared with how they control the polish itself, this effect is relatively minor.

Hopefully this helps to give you a start with some of the theory you are interested in. The specifics, however, you will want to research yourself, as there is so much variation between different brands it is hard to generalize. If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask, and welcome to the forum. :thumb:

- Steampunk


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## Ia79 (Apr 13, 2014)

This might give you some more info: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/for...84955&highlight=hex+logic+pad+chart+caladonia


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## Detailjunkie (May 31, 2015)

Okay thanks guys, thats great and was very helpful. 

Now the next newbie question would be how to tell if the paint is soft or hard. Do you have to research it or is there a way of telling?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

In regards to figuring out if your paint is hard or soft, you will know as soon as you start polishing. If you can get the defects corrected easily with light pads and polishes, but you are struggling to get rid of a light marring or haze from polishing, it's soft. If you have to pull out a compound and a really aggressive pad to remove minor swirls, you're polishing a rock hard paint. Rely on your own senses, as they will help you when others cannot. 

Hope this helps....

- Steampunk


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## Detailjunkie (May 31, 2015)

So if you have soft paint and it hazes is that more of a pain to correct than hard paint?

Sorry about all the questions, just trying to get as much info as possible and what im researching so far soft paint is harder bring bacl clarity/shine


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Detailjunkie said:


> So if you have soft paint and it hazes is that more of a pain to correct than hard paint?
> 
> Sorry about all the questions, just trying to get as much info as possible and what im researching so far soft paint is harder bring bacl clarity/shine


I don't mind the questions. Keep them coming... :thumb:

Soft and hard are simply the extremes of the same spectrum; both require a similar amount of energy to handle, but directed in different ways. Some people find one more challenging than the other. For me, soft paint demands finesse. Hard paint, on the other hand, responds well to a brute force approach. If your paint is soft or hard, it makes no difference, as it's simply the challenge you are faced with if you want a perfect finish. The only reason why it's an important fact to establish, is that this distinction helps you to direct your energies, and accurately proportion your response.

Hard paint is abrasion resistant paint; the marks obscuring the clarity/gloss are very difficult to remove. Soft paint lacks abrasion resistance; the challenge is in not creating newer, finer marks, as you more easily remove the old ones.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


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## Mrkevbrown (May 28, 2015)

Good info "steampunk":buffer::buffer:


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