# Completely strip any wax and or sealant



## V8JB (Dec 16, 2018)

hi all, first post here long time lurker though.

what can I use to get rid of sealant/wax put on my car? 

Will snow foam > rinse > wash (dodo juice) > CarPro Eraser.

Is that enough to eliminate any previous wax (HydrO2 Lite applied about 9 months ago, then Collinite 985?).

Thanks,
V8JB.


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## beatty599 (Sep 18, 2016)

Normal wash routine, followed by a spray bottle with a little bit of dish soap in it. No need to buy all those specific wax sealant stripping products, when all they are is that buy different colours and smells.


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## 66Rob (Sep 25, 2007)

I can recommend Meguiars Wash Plus. That leaves a really clean LSP free surface.


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## Mikej857 (Jan 17, 2012)

beatty599 said:


> Normal wash routine, followed by a spray bottle with a little bit of dish soap in it. No need to buy all those specific wax sealant stripping products, when all they are is that buy different colours and smells.


Dish soap won't remove wax, it simply adds a film over the wax that gives the appearance the wax is no longer affective

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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

something abrasive is the only guarantee to remove lsp


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## fatdazza (Dec 29, 2010)

beatty599 said:


> Normal wash routine, followed by a spray bottle with a little bit of dish soap in it. No need to buy all those specific wax sealant stripping products, when all they are is that buy different colours and smells.


Without wanting to be rude, you are completely wrong on this. You are simply trotting out an old "myth".

FYI "dish soap" contain surfactants which leave residues that "wet" the surface and hence give the appearance of removal as there is no beading.

For organic sealants / waxes then either physical removal via polishing or chemical removal via panel wipe (and I mean genuine panel wipe and not IPA based products) is required to guarantee removal.


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## fatdazza (Dec 29, 2010)

cheekymonkey said:


> something abrasive is the only guarantee to remove lsp


Cheeky - agree that polishing is required for "ceramic" type coatings.

Panel wipe is perfectly suitable for organic waxes etc. :thumb:


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## MBRuss (Apr 29, 2011)

beatty599 said:


> Normal wash routine, followed by a spray bottle with a little bit of dish soap in it. No need to buy all those specific wax sealant stripping products, when all they are is that buy different colours and smells.


Not true. Dish soap has salt in it. Not something I'd want to deliberately put on my car, unless I wanted to encourage corrosion. It also probably won't strip everything.


66Rob said:


> I can recommend Meguiars Wash Plus. That leaves a really clean LSP free surface.


Disagree with this. In my experience Meguiar's Wash+ did not remove even Sonax BSD (which is hardly the most durable coating). After using Wash+ on my car there was no noticeable degradation of BSD's beading properties.

Also, John at Forensic Detailing showed that Wash+ can lightly mar the paint because of the abrasives in it. I only use it before polishing for this reason.

In response to the OP, you're probably best off getting some Upol Slow Panel Wipe. This is what bodyshops use to ensure a car's surface is completely free of contaminants, waxes, and grease before painting. Therefore should be good enough for changing your LSP! 

Hope this helps!

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## JoeyJoeJo (Jan 3, 2014)

I use G3 body prep shampoo, seems to work fine for me.


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

fatdazza said:


> Cheeky - agree that polishing is required for "ceramic" type coatings.
> 
> Panel wipe is perfectly suitable for organic waxes etc. :thumb:


true, but with him stating he's wanting to remove wax and sealant, thought polish was the better option


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## AudiPhil (Aug 11, 2018)

Another vote for Upol panel wipe here. Or polish.


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## MBRuss (Apr 29, 2011)

Yup, polish will remove it, but take much more time and effort than panel wipe.

Try panel wipe first, then if there still seems to be something on the surface give it a light polish.

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## V8JB (Dec 16, 2018)

Wow, page 2 already! Thanks for the replies guys. Dont mind buying these things but dont want to be spending money here and there and having multiple specific products when I could just use one or two of them.


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

V8JB said:


> Wow, page 2 already! Thanks for the replies guys. Dont mind buying these things but dont want to be spending money here and there and having multiple specific products when I could just use one or two of them.


Not trying to be rude, but you'll soon realize that having the right products makes this hobby less stressful.

You'll start out wanting to just get the car clean, and follow the basic steps, but as you learn and improve, you'll start to notice more things, and then realize that those things need specific products to handle them.

Stripping a car down with just chemicals isn't enough. You should be claying and decontaminating the paint before you apply another product. Tar, Iron, Grease, all these need fairly specific products to remove, and polishing out foreign contaminants isn't exactly great for your pads.


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## V8JB (Dec 16, 2018)

I've got quite a lot of products at the moment and realise its an expensive hobby. I dont mind paying if its worth but i can tell tell like any area some marketing hype can lead to money being poured down the drain.

For example to strip or even regular washing should i be using a tfr? I mean sometimes I have so many products for different things I do wonder if I should do a bog standard wash and get the same result my my neighbours. Except they take 20-30 minutes and I take 1-3 hours. 

I do enjoy it in the summer months, but life is busy at the moment and I just want a clean, long lasting coating that makes it 'easier' to wash when required.... and I am having an issue finding that. 

TBH I was blown away by the hydro2lite sealant that was awesome.... Im just wondering if that is good enough still (expensive... I guess due to ease of application?)


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## MrMatt (Apr 15, 2011)

I know years ago Autoglym used to have HD cleanser, then it got phased out and they recommended using intensive tar remover.

Has anyone used tar removed for this and if so how do they normally apply it and what sort of results did they get?


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

V8JB said:


> I've got quite a lot of products at the moment and realise its an expensive hobby. I dont mind paying if its worth but i can tell tell like any area some marketing hype can lead to money being poured down the drain.
> 
> For example to strip or even regular washing should i be using a tfr? I mean sometimes I have so many products for different things I do wonder if I should do a bog standard wash and get the same result my my neighbours. Except they take 20-30 minutes and I take 1-3 hours.
> 
> ...


It sounds more like you want to be able to add protection easily, versus just add really good protection once.

There is a lot of spray on wet and rinse products that seem to offer decent protection, and can be topped up after any wash. If you want to just apply 1 product once and not have to worry about it you'll need a good coating, which needs very high levels of prep to last (including long cure times for the multi year stuff).


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## andy__d (Jun 27, 2018)

it Can be as expensive OR as cheap as you want

Yes specific products for specific tasks Can make that task a lot easier.

there Are a few products that you do not "need" to use every time, so they last a heck of a long time.
for me 
i choose to Clay twice a year, spring & late autumn /early winter, so the clay + clay lube last Ages
same with Tar remover, its a "as needed" product mostly in summer, 
TFR is the same, Or you can swap a dedicated TFR for a citrus apc,, both last ages as "not needed every wash"

For me , Detailed Onlines Nano sealant - brilliant and a snowfoam then mitt wash and rinse and its "done",
Winter time i have used Gtechnic C2V3 for the same results/reasons, it costs more, isnt as fast(near instant) application but lasts the Whole winter for me.
Same with wax 
AG UHD , nope it isnt cheap, it doesnt have the "kudos" of a speciality £££££ wax, but it lasts and honestly its brilliant.

Prep is hard graft, get the car to a standard your happy with, then it really is maintaining that with the easiest For you manner using whats Needed at the time Rather than wheel everything out and get to applying Everything in stages taking all day , so its ready to wash again (and dry) for wax and sealants tomorrow.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

MBRuss said:


> Noish soap has salt in it. ar, unless I wanted to encourage corrosion. It also probably won't strip everything.Disagree with this. In my experience Meguiar's Wash+ did dly the most durable coating). After using Wash+ on my car there was no noticeable degradation of BSD's beading properties.
> 
> Also, John at Forensic Detailing showed that Wash+ can lightly mar the paint because of the abrasives in it. I only use it before polishing for this reason.
> 
> ...





MBRuss said:


> Not true. Dish soap has salt in it. Not something I'd want to deliberately put on my car, unless I wanted to encourage corrosion. It also probably won't strip everything.Disagree with this. In my experience Meguiar's Wash+ did not remove even Sonax BSD (which is hardly the most durable coating). After using Wash+ on my car there was no noticeable degradation of BSD's beading properties.
> 
> Also, John at Forensic Detailing showed that Wash+ can lightly mar the paint because of the abrasives in it. I only use it before polishing for this reason.
> 
> ...


Not all true. Jon, someone I talk to frequently via FB loves the stuff, swears by it for stripping waxes/sealants and if you seen his recent video one he has decided to keep in his arsenal as a 'must have'.

I can't confirm nor deny the marring issue. All I would say is there is far more chance of the wash pad inflicting swirling as opposed to the wash+ and it isn't an issue I have had personally.

So far for me wash + has stripped new waxes, old waxes and old sealants. BSD is no more

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Ps. Writing this blind as my taptalk has messed up and won't show any of my messages when I try to edit it. If someone could delete this that would be great...


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## Larryk (Apr 24, 2009)

If you are stripping waxes I would assume that you will be reapplying a new wax/sealant? With this being my assumption, you will already be using a snow foam or pre-wash, then use a shampoo that doesnt contain wax. To prepare the surface better for you next wax to adhere to, I would advise to use an Iron Remover and tar remover at this stage, and then clay the car. If you want to seal or wax the car at that point, wipe down with a bodyshop panel wipe/silicone remover, or else polish/correct paint and then use the panel wipe/silicone remover. 
The combination of;
Pre-wash
Shampoo
Iron remover
Tar remover
Clay bar
Polish
Panel Wipe/silicone remover

should have the car back to bare paint with nothing else present


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## 66Rob (Sep 25, 2007)

Meguiars Wash +

I have used Meguiars Wash + a couple of times on a deep red and a silver car (this was after a 2 bucket wash) and both times it easily removed as far as I could tell all signs of any LSP. 

Granted I would have struggled perhaps to see any marring on the silver paint, but I checked the red car thoroughly as well and didn’t see any issues caused by the Wash +. Obviously not a product to use frequently but in my opinion it does exactly what it is designed to do, and is ideal if then followed by a light polish and new LSP.

It is also very good for deep cleaning glass.


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## Berylburton (Sep 14, 2013)

V8JB said:


> hi all, first post here long time lurker though.
> 
> what can I use to get rid of sealant/wax put on my car?
> 
> ...


This is the most important part of the post. If they have been on 9 months it will be a lot easier than if they have been applied yesterday.

The Megs wash+ followed by Panel wipe will do the job. Maybe a second appliaction of panel wipe to sure.


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

Brian1612 said:


> Not all true. Jon, someone I talk to frequently via FB loves the stuff, swears by it for stripping waxes/sealants and if you seen his recent video one he has decided to keep in his arsenal as a 'must have'.
> 
> I can't confirm nor deny the marring issue. All I would say is there is far more chance of the wash pad inflicting swirling as opposed to the wash+ and it isn't an issue I have had personally.
> 
> ...


Exactly. I don't know why so many people have taken away the wrong conclusions from that video. It's logical and makes lots of sense. It is very good at removing protection products on clean paint.


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## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

roscopervis said:


> Exactly. I don't know why so many people have taken away the wrong conclusions from that video. It's logical and makes lots of sense. It is very good at removing protection products on clean paint.


Sorry man, but I gotta disagree.











The second video really shows that even on 2 month old show wax, the dawn can't fully remove it, even after 10 washes. That is a lot of time washing when a better prep product could easily handle this in 1 application.

EDIT: I now realize you were talking about Wash + and not Dawn. My point still stands.


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## MBRuss (Apr 29, 2011)

Brian1612 said:


> Not all true. Jon, someone I talk to frequently via FB loves the stuff, swears by it for stripping waxes/sealants and if you seen his recent video one he has decided to keep in his arsenal as a 'must have'.
> 
> I can't confirm nor deny the marring issue. All I would say is there is far more chance of the wash pad inflicting swirling as opposed to the wash+ and it isn't an issue I have had personally.
> 
> ...


I'd say it was all true. Pretty sure I had protection left on mine after using Wash+, though it could have been Clean Slate that didn't strip. Either way, I wouldn't trust any car shampoo to completely remove your LSP's, and I think Jon would concur on that as well. You wouldn't catch a bodyshop relying on Wash+ alone to prep a panel for painting. Pretty sure it was also Jon's vid that showed it marring paint, though it could have been a different YouTube video.

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## pt1 (Feb 8, 2014)

I use g3 prep shampoo then gyeon prep..usually leaves wax free paint.if it's a tough sealant I sometimes spray autosmart g101 over the car then hose off which works really well

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## MBRuss (Apr 29, 2011)

roscopervis said:


> Exactly. I don't know why so many people have taken away the wrong conclusions from that video. It's logical and makes lots of sense. It is very good at removing protection products on clean paint.


I've not drawn that conclusion from a YT video, but from my own experience with Wash+. I have used it several times. I think I'm partly mixing up my impressions of Chemical Guys Clean Slate in my head (which seemed to remove no protection whatsoever), but from what I remember I tried Wash+ the following week and my protection wasn't removed.

I suspect Panel Wipe would do a much better job of removing everything on the paint, as that's what it's designed for.

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## Loach (May 23, 2015)

I've given up on everything except the polisher and abrasives, and even with them I have to reserve some degree of skepticism especially when dealing with removing paint coatings. But if my goal before doing work is to remove an LSP from the surface, I'm pulling out the polisher and abrasives, period. And I've tested soaps like Wash+, Clean Slate, Adam's Strip Wash, Dawn, Purple Power, etc. I've tested IPA panel wipes at various dilutions and concentrations, I've tested a bundle of body prep solvent cleaners (wax and grease removers), sprays like Poorboy's Strip Down, different degreasers. There's a line between removing the wax from the surface, and creating a hydrophilic surface. Just because the surface is hydrophilic, it doesn't mean the wax has been fully removed. Just because the surface is not hydrophilic, it doesn't necessarily mean there's a wax left on the surface. Does that make sense? 

Once we factor in the potential for heavy masking surfactants that aren't easily rinsed, it's too difficult to make a clear judgement on wax removal. Then we have to account for the "true" behavior of unprotected paint which adds another degree of confusion. I can have the panel polished, IPA wiped, then washed with Dawn and the panel is FLAT during the rinse. Then a few months later, polished with the same abrasives, same IPA wipe, same Dawn soap, and the panel is sheeting slightly, no where near as slow as before 2 months ago. What changed? Temp? Humidity? The types of LSP's I was testing consecutively over this period? So where do I pinpoint my baseline unprotected water behavior?

Most of my testing has been on fresh products, strip products have had various degrees of visual effectiveness but this varies greatly between products. Fusso Coat was extremely resistant against Meguiar's Wash+ at full strength out of the bottle and heavily worked in with a sponge a multitude of times. Pretty much everything in the short term is resistant against the other strip wash soaps. Body shop wax and grease removers have been so-so, some of them are much better brands than others (Dupli-Color wax and grease remover was nearly useless for example). Wash Plus generally does a good job of producing a hydrophilic surface when used very heavy and worked directly in a section, but using it like this has produced marring on every panel I've tested it on. 

I'd say I can easily make the call when a product has survived on the paint, truly unprotected surfaces when exposed to the same durability cycle and contamination on a daily driver will in most cases produce a hydrophilic water behavior over time, but I'm not at all comfortable making a solid call in the short term with anything that the LSP has been fully removed by "product xyz". It's been "prepped" with the abrasive and polisher, that's what I'm going to start saying.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

MBRuss said:


> I'd say it was all true. Pretty sure I had protection left on mine after using Wash+, though it could have been Clean Slate that didn't strip. Either way, I wouldn't trust any car shampoo to completely remove your LSP's, and I think Jon would concur on that as well. You wouldn't catch a bodyshop relying on Wash+ alone to prep a panel for painting. Pretty sure it was also Jon's vid that showed it marring paint, though it could have been a different YouTube video.
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


We could argue this all day but I think the fact that Jon has retained it in his arsenal as a must have product says it all.

I've spoken to him personally and he really rates it. Used properly (ignoring megs instructions) it works. I've tested it thoroughly and have confirmed it isn't masking beading as many suspected, in fact I used it earlier today to strip all the dealership waxes off my new car.

It worked perfectly like it has on previous cars and gave me a good base to apply some Gyeon Wet Coat until the better weather arrives so I can break out the Flex and start correcting. That is only my extensive experience of it though and I appreciate others may not get the same results I do for any number of reasons. It hasn't let me down yet when it's came to stripping fading waxes/sealants though and ill be picking up a second bottle when this one runs out.

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## MBRuss (Apr 29, 2011)

Brian1612 said:


> We could argue this all day but I think the fact that Jon has retained it in his arsenal as a must have product says it all.
> 
> I've spoken to him personally and he really rates it. Used properly (ignoring megs instructions) it works. I've tested it thoroughly and have confirmed it isn't masking beading as many suspected, in fact I used it earlier today to strip all the dealership waxes off my new car.
> 
> ...


Perhaps that's it. My sealants perhaps weren't as old as the ones on your car so stood up to the Wash+, but argue or not, there was definitely still protection on my car afterwards. That's a fact. As such, if I wanted to guarantee a completely bare panel I'd use panel wipe, as bodyshops do.

That said, I doubt even panel wipe would remove a full on ceramic coating, so all depends what you're removing.

Not sure I'd use Wash+ on a brand new car though, as it has been shown to leave slight micromarring. I'd be tempted to use something less aggressive on brand new paint, but that's just me. If you're going to be polishing the whole car anyway then perhaps it's less of a concern for you.

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## fatdazza (Dec 29, 2010)

MBRuss said:


> Perhaps that's it. My sealants perhaps weren't as old as the ones on your car so stood up to the Wash+, but argue or not, there was definitely still protection on my car afterwards. That's a fact. As such, if I wanted to guarantee a completely bare panel I'd use panel wipe, as bodyshops do.
> 
> That said, I doubt even panel wipe would remove a full on ceramic coating, so all depends what you're removing.
> 
> ...


Panel wipe will not remove a ceramic coating. Panel wipe is a solvent that removes organic material (grease, wax, silicones etc.)

Ceramic coatings are inorganic and so panel wipe will not remove them.


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## iCraig (Aug 9, 2017)

Meg’s wash plus is a revelation I’ve found; so quick and easy to use and it’s stripped off AG HD Wax from my black Ford Focus with no marring!


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## GleemSpray (Jan 26, 2014)

I had a new bumper fitted and resprayed at a high quality bodyshop some time back - was chatting to the bodyshop guy, who understood the whole detailing thing and he said the paint is baked so you can go ahead and polish / put wax on if you like.

Went to wash the car a few days later and rinsed it with the hosepipe first as i always do and noticed super tight beading right across the new bumper.

And i know the car wasn't washed or valeted by them, because i specifically asked them not too - they said they used panel wipe on all the paint before spraying and that was it. 

So this was fresh clean paint beading merrily - i guess knackered LSP will pool water flat, but maybe when its all properly gone, the clean paint will bead again ? - hence it might be V difficult to say for sure whether the LSP has actually gone.


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## Demetrios72 (Jun 27, 2011)

Has anybody used the Megs+ as a normal shampoo, in a bucket.

On the instructions it says that it can be used as traditional wash

TIA


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## joebrack (Jun 24, 2018)

GleemSpray said:


> I had a new bumper fitted and resprayed at a high quality bodyshop some time back - was chatting to the bodyshop guy, who understood the whole detailing thing and he said the paint is baked so you can go ahead and polish / put wax on if you like.
> 
> Went to wash the car a few days later and rinsed it with the hosepipe first as i always do and noticed super tight beading right across the new bumper.
> 
> ...


It could be polishing oils that bead the water and after a wash or too it disappears. My brand new car didn't bead water after a decon wash.

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## tosh (Dec 30, 2005)

Demetri said:


> Has anybody used the Megs+ as a normal shampoo, in a bucket.
> 
> On the instructions it says that it can be used as traditional wash
> 
> TIA


Yes, it's just a strong wash though as the particles tend to fall to the bottom of the bucket. It means you don't have to have a second bottle if you just want to carry one car wash soap with you. Smells and feels like a citrus wash.

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## srhutch (Aug 2, 2009)

Fast or slow degreaser on the panel wipe?


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## Fairtony (Mar 12, 2018)

Demetri said:


> Has anybody used the Megs+ as a normal shampoo, in a bucket.
> 
> On the instructions it says that it can be used as traditional wash
> 
> TIA


Yeah, didn't seem to strip anything though. Foams wonderfully though and smells nice.

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## RS3 (Mar 5, 2018)

66Rob said:


> I can recommend Meguiars Wash Plus. That leaves a really clean LSP free surface.


I made this mistake (using Megs Wash+) on my wifes new black Skoda Kodiaq. Found lots of very fine swirls afterwards and it didnt remove the BH double Speed wax that I had put on 4 months previously. I will now only use it on my old Honda daily. I'd only use it on her car again if I was planning a full polish afterwards.

Ive done some research myself and ive purchased some Dodo Lime Prime Lite based on many recomendations from people I know and trust. Havent used it yet (waiting for a decent weekend which I think will be a while now) but if I remember, ill post the results.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

RS3 said:


> I made this mistake (using Megs Wash+) on my wifes new black Skoda Kodiaq. Found lots of very fine swirls afterwards and it didnt remove the BH double Speed wax that I had put on 4 months previously. I will now only use it on my old Honda daily. I'd only use it on her car again if I was planning a full polish afterwards.
> 
> Ive done some research myself and ive purchased some Dodo Lime Prime Lite based on many recomendations from people I know and trust. Havent used it yet (waiting for a decent weekend which I think will be a while now) but if I remember, ill post the results.


Did you wash the car before hand? And did you actually work it into the paint or just glide over the paint as if you were using normal shampoo?

It's shifted 4-6 week old waxes for me no problem. A 4 month old wax would be a breeze or should be.

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## smarty5927 (Jan 9, 2007)

Brian1612 said:


> Did you wash the car before hand? And did you actually work it into the paint or just glide over the paint as if you were using normal shampoo?


This, i believe, is the key to getting Meg Wash + to work properly.

I tend to think of it as a fine liquid clay, use gentle but firm pressure over small areas until you feel the surface go smooth.

John


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

Exactly that Smarty. That is why cleaning the car with a normal shampoo before hand is so important.


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## RS3 (Mar 5, 2018)

Brian1612 said:


> Did you wash the car before hand? And did you actually work it into the paint or just glide over the paint as if you were using normal shampoo?
> 
> It's shifted 4-6 week old waxes for me no problem. A 4 month old wax would be a breeze or should be.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


It was only snow foamed before using the Wash+ and it wasnt particularly dirty as it was washed the week before. I'm not going to use it again on the black paint regardless as it did put some swirls in which in my opinion, a wash medium should not do.
How do you tell when you have completely removed the wax?. I just spray water on and watch the beading which it still is really nicely so I am impressed with the BH DSP. I like to try different waxes so I am planning to apply some Dark Fusso coat this weekend after using the Lime Prime.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

RS3 said:


> It was only snow foamed before using the Wash+ and it wasnt particularly dirty as it was washed the week before. I'm not going to use it again on the black paint regardless as it did put some swirls in which in my opinion, a wash medium should not do.
> 
> How do you tell when you have completely removed the wax?. I just spray water on and watch the beading which it still is really nicely so I am impressed with the BH DSP. I like to try different waxes so I am planning to apply some Dark Fusso coat this weekend after using the Lime Prime.


It is far more likely the combination of the dirt on the panel and wash mitt would cause the swirling than the shampoo imo, especially if you scrubbed the paint as instructed. I would only use Megs Wash+ on an already 2BM washed car, doing so I didn't notice any damage to my previous car which was black.

No beading or sheeting would be the biggest indicator that protection is gone.

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## MBRuss (Apr 29, 2011)

Just stumbled across one of the videos I saw that showed the marring that can be caused by Wash+. Their testing fits with my experiences, in that Wash+ may be able to remove a straight wax, but it doesn't really touch a sealant of any sort. In my experience it doesn't even touch BSD or CarPro Hydro, which are quick "easy on" products, so it's definitely not the best tool for stripping back to a completely LSP free surface.






I'd stick with my suggestion of panel wipe (after washing the car, of course). Unless you're going to go to all the effort of polishing the entire car, but even then I'd tend to want to panel wipe before and after polishing as well, to remove as much LSP as possible before polishing, and to remove the polishing oils afterwards.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

MBRuss said:


> Just stumbled across one of the videos I saw that showed the marring that can be caused by Wash+. Their testing fits with my experiences, in that Wash+ may be able to remove a straight wax, but it doesn't really touch a sealant of any sort. In my experience it doesn't even touch BSD or CarPro Hydro, which are quick "easy on" products, so it's definitely not the best tool for stripping back to a completely LSP free surface.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Panel wipe is even less likely to break an LSP down imo. Wash plus+ works for me and again I'll say you really need to work it in and 'scrub' the paint. It's not a typical shampoo you just glide over the panels with. If you have used it this way and failed to remove the products you have mentioned then I have no other advice, it works for me this way but I guess certain conditions are stopping you getting the results Megs+ offers.

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## chongo (Jun 7, 2014)

Brian1612 said:


> Panel wipe is even less likely to break an LSP down imo. Wash plus+ works for me and again I'll say you really need to work it in and 'scrub' the paint. It's not a typical shampoo you just glide over the panels with. If you have used it this way and failed to remove the products you have mentioned then I have no other advice, it works for me this way but I guess certain conditions are stopping you getting the results Megs+ offers.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Am using this for the first time tomorrow followed by a correction, so I'll be interested to see if it has any affect on this car that has some form of sealant on from the car dealership 

It's says it can improve/remove slight swirls but we all know that's bull:lol:
I class this as another stage of the decontamination, probably after your full decon just to make sure you have completely removed any old/new LSP, which is essential before carrying out any correction work.


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## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

chongo said:


> Am using this for the first time tomorrow followed by a correction, so I'll be interested to see if it has any affect on this car that has some form of sealant on from the car dealership
> 
> It's says it can improve/remove slight swirls but we all know that's bull
> 
> I class this as another stage of the decontamination, probably after your full decon just to make sure you have completely removed any old/new LSP, which is essential before carrying out any correction work.


Perfect for when a full decon and correction is taking place chongo 

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## NRDetailing (Jul 9, 2018)

you need an alkaline then an acidic and then a solvent like tar remover to be sure, thats the three magic trio. :car: :car:


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