# Another DA v Rotary for a beginner



## JordanTypeR (Mar 13, 2010)

Hi folks,

I'm sure this has been covered a million times, but I've tried searching and still can't quite get the answer I'm after.

I'm looking to detail my car, and possibly start a bit of weekend detailing on friends and families cars too. Obviously I'm going to need a machine polisher of some description to do this, and this is where you lot come in handy:thumb:

I seem to have read through hundreds of threads now. I understand that I'll need to practice on scrap panels and master my technique before I go near anyones car, and I've got an idea about pads and polishes. I've read through both of DaveKGs guides (DA and rotary) but I'm still not too sure which I want.

Just how slow is it using a DA in comparison to a rotary? I'd be looking at either a DAS6 Pro, or a SIM180 I think. It's something I'd hope to be using quite regularly so if it'd make more sense to jump straight in the deep end and get a rotary then I'd rather do that. 

But then I've seen others say they'd always learn with DA, which I've read are completely different. Can a full correction be carried out with a DA, and up to the same standard as a rotary? And is it a lot harder work?

If anyone can help then I'd really appreciate it.


----------



## dest (Feb 21, 2006)

Regarding the differences, and transition from DA to rotary, this thread is worth a read:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=153991


----------



## JordanTypeR (Mar 13, 2010)

Hi, thanks for the reply. That's one of the hundreds I've viewed already. It's useful but still doesn't seem to quite answer my questions.

Anyone?


----------



## dest (Feb 21, 2006)

Ok, Ive been using a DA for just about a year now, and wanted to move up to a rotary for various reasons. Speed being one of the main ones.
You can get very good results from a DA, it just takes longer.

This is a quick example of mine with a DA


----------



## takemetothepub (Feb 5, 2010)

Just how slow is it using a DA in comparison to a rotary?

Depends on the level defects needing correction, how hard the paint is etc etc but Id say it about three/four times as long

I'd be looking at either a DAS6 Pro, or a SIM180 I think. It's something I'd hope to be using quite regularly so if it'd make more sense to jump straight in the deep end and get a rotary then I'd rather do that.

Get both, a cheap silverline rotary for metal and a DA for plastics.

But then I've seen others say they'd always learn with DA, which I've read are completely different. Can a full correction be carried out with a DA, and up to the same standard as a rotary? And is it a lot harder work?

Yes you can do a full correction with a DA, will have arms like Popeye after though! lol

If anyone can help then I'd really appreciate it.


----------



## dest (Feb 21, 2006)

Time wise, that black Passat took me about 18 hours in total.
I did another mates BMW with the DA, I spent 3 days on that, it had tons of overspray and was in a very bad way

Finished:


----------



## JordanTypeR (Mar 13, 2010)

Cheers, that's cleared a couple of things up. I think I'll definately start on rotary. It's the 3/4 times longer bit that scares me, especially if it's something I'd be hoping to do quite often.

Are plastics hard with a rotary?

And dest, it looks like you've done a very good job of those cars:thumb:


----------



## dest (Feb 21, 2006)

Cheers 
I cant really comment on plastics/rotary as Ive not done any yet!

Personally, I wish I had started on rotary from the beginning now


----------



## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

Main thing is don't skimp on your backing plate if you go rotary. It makes a huge difference!


----------



## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Rotary vs. DA - yup, that does get asked a lot 

It really depends on the person, but a lot of the time I like to start people off learning with a rotary polisher if that is there end goal as the differecnes in machine control between a DA and a rotary are huge! Now there is the argument (and it is justified) for starting with the "easier" and "safer" machine, if one does assume that the DA is both of these things, before moving onto the "more advanced" rotary... but one thing I would say here is that is is important _not to view the rotary as the fire breathing monster it is often seen as that will burn paint as soon as look at it!!!_ It is not. It commands more respect as the heat generated for example is greater and the machine has more a "mind of its own" rather than doing every little thing you tell it like a DA. But if you spend time on scrap panels learning to control of a rotary (don't focus on correction, simply learn to control the machine first on flats, sides, contours and curves) I find that many people can easily make the step straight to rotary and bypass the DA polisher.

On plastics, you have to be aware of the heat generated... Plastic cannot dissipate the heat like a metal can and this leads to local hotspots which can lead to paint burns... keep the speeds lower on plastics, certainly as you are learning, and monitor the panel temperature carefully... Extend your set length and slower speeds while you learn to ensure you fully work the polish, while keeping safe working temperatures.

Also, on the other side of the coin, its important to remember that a DA is also a highly capable machine - yes a bit more "gentle" and so a bit slower when it comes to correcting certain paint types (not all, some paints actually respond better to a DA), so you do need to be aware of this but a DA can also carry out a very good amount of correction and given the time, can match a rotary's finish.


----------



## SparklesFylde (Jan 28, 2010)

A great piece of advise there.


----------

