# DA to Rotary, blimey!!



## The Sheriff (Jul 15, 2008)

Well I've just bought a rotary machine after having fair bit of success with the DA.

So I tried it yesterday with the standard 125mm backing pad and white Hex logic pad. Flippin ek! Found myself fighting to control it, and that was only on 1-2 setting. Not sure what i was doing wrong, but felt that it shouldn't have been that hard to control, surely??

Did anyone else find it difficult moving from DA to rotary?

Cheers:thumb:


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## karl_liverpool (Sep 25, 2008)

it can take some getting used to. try to relax and just guide the machine with left hand, and use your right hand to keep it under control. (writing hand is the guide hand) try to work with the arch of the machine rather than fight it. they tend to arch as they move just use your guide arm to direct it where you want it.

try to relax your arms or they will be dead by end of the session


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## amiller (Jan 1, 2009)

The Sheriff said:


> Well I've just bought a rotary machine after having fair bit of success with the DA.
> 
> So I tried it yesterday with the standard 125mm backing pad and white Hex logic pad. Flippin ek! Found myself fighting to control it, and that was only on 1-2 setting. Not sure what i was doing wrong, but felt that it shouldn't have been that hard to control, surely??
> 
> ...


Ha, first time is always the worst!  I remember it being like those comedy films when the fireman try and hold the hose and get thrown around! :lol:

Make sure your surface is contaminant free and you have the right amount of polish on the pad. Start with a finishing pad and a nice oily polish. Something like Dodo Lime Prime or Menz 85D. Take is slowwww....

:thumb:


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## Finerdetails (Apr 30, 2006)

If you have gone from DA to rotary you need to cghange your style and a few other things.

DA is like front wheel dry car - point and go
Rotary is rear wheel drive on slicks in the wet!

You need to learn to balance and control the new machine. Where you use to just watch and point, now you have to feel and steer. Slight movements of the machine will determine how it moves. Learn to twist the machine left and right to move side to side, tilt forward and back to move forwards and backwards. Forget watching the machine, and instead try a flat open panel, blue pad, light polish and close your eyes. Sounds daft, but learn to feel the machine and you will sail!

best advice I can give a newbie


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## karl_liverpool (Sep 25, 2008)

Finerdetails said:


> If you have gone from DA to rotary you need to cghange your style and a few other things.
> 
> DA is like front wheel dry car - point and go
> Rotary is rear wheel drive on slicks in the wet!
> ...


that is very good advice


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## The Sheriff (Jul 15, 2008)

Thanks very much, all of you. Really appreciate that great advice:thumb:


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## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

Finerdetails said:


> DA is like front wheel dry car - point and go
> Rotary is rear wheel drive on slicks in the wet!


Great analogy there :thumb:


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## Doc (Feb 2, 2008)

Glad Im not the only one...


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## gfrankland (Dec 30, 2007)

i am dreading going over to rotary but I have to as DA takes soooo long and never gives the results i want


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## markc (Mar 4, 2009)

The Sheriff said:


> Well I've just bought a rotary machine after having fair bit of success with the DA.
> 
> So I tried it yesterday with the standard 125mm backing pad and white Hex logic pad. Flippin ek! Found myself fighting to control it, and that was only on 1-2 setting. Not sure what i was doing wrong, but felt that it shouldn't have been that hard to control, surely??
> 
> ...


Oh yes....you're not alone there! much better 2nd time,i just took my time and did a panel at a time.
3rd time i began to get used to the 'feel' of it.Its like anything we do it looks easy but its not!!!:buffer:


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I find cheap, thin backing plates only compound how difficult they can be to control - buy a decent backing plate (3M, Gloss It) and it becomes a fair bit easier.

Try a 4" pad on a smaller backing plate too - much easier to control. I tend to only use larger pads now on roofs and bonnets, then use 4" pads for the sides and back of a car, with smaller 3M spots pads where required.


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## The Sheriff (Jul 15, 2008)

Thanks Russ:thumb:


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## T25DOC (Jan 11, 2010)

Got mine yesterday - so got it all to come - will be getting a couple of old panels from the scrap yard for a bit of practice......lol


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## Kokopelli (Sep 18, 2009)

Finerdetails said:


> If you have gone from DA to rotary you need to cghange your style and a few other things.
> 
> DA is like front wheel dry car - point and go
> Rotary is rear wheel drive on slicks in the wet!
> ...


This was the info I were looking for. You know they say the pad should be flat at all times. I were thinking that it would need some tilt to make it move your way but I just couldn't have justified my thoughts, till now.

Thanks a lot :thumb:


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## 1Valet PRO (Nov 2, 2005)

There are a handful of reason you can have trouble holding your rotary. 

First one is machine is too fast.
Not enough product on the pad. 
Not hold the pad level to the body work.
Paint work not prepped properly. IE claying

If still unsure get trained. Dave KG runs a good course.


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## dest (Feb 21, 2006)

I am in a similar position too.
Ive been using a DA for the last 12 months or so, and have recently got a SIM180.
I got a spare panel from the scrap yard and have been practicing and reading guides over and over.
Slowly it seems to be getting easier, but I do feel its like starting all over again, and having to get out of habits picked up using the DA!
One thing I have noticed so far, is that the polish seems to be drying out alot quicker than with the DA, I assume that is obviously due to the more heat that is generated.... I quickly learnt that it does'nt need the same pressure as the DA!!

This is where I am at so far:


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## The Sheriff (Jul 15, 2008)

Superb results there mate!! I've got used to the rotary (DEFINITELY no expert!!!) more after taking a few tips from the guys here (above). Using a good backing plate, softer pad and just 2 pee sized blobs. I've never taken it passed #3 setting, and achieved some cracking results.

Practice on those panels and you'll soon have the hang of controlling it:thumb:


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## Mike_Rose (Jul 21, 2008)

gfrankland said:


> i am dreading going over to rotary but I have to as DA takes soooo long and never gives the results i want


I know how you feel, I've just spent my 3rd Sunday afternoon on a friends severely swirled VW Polo, and I'd say I've got another 2 sessions to go with the G220 and Menzerna polish and pads.

The swirls are going and the car is already looking like a dream but other random deeper scratches are being a beggar to remove completely.

I'm one one of those courses and not too sure if to pick DA or rotary, may be I'll try out both if Dave will let me .


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## markc (Mar 4, 2009)

It is easier to use with 4'' pads as was suggested earlier in the thread,much easier to control the rotary imo:buffer:


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## mike_shrops (Oct 27, 2007)

Mike_Rose said:


> I know how you feel, I've just spent my 3rd Sunday afternoon on a friends severely swirled VW Polo, and I'd say I've got another 2 sessions to go with the G220 and Menzerna polish and pads.
> 
> The swirls are going and the car is already looking like a dream but other random deeper scratches are being a beggar to remove completely.
> 
> I'm one one of those courses and not too sure if to pick DA or rotary, may be I'll try out both if Dave will let me .


Once you make the switch you won't regret it, the rotary is so much nicer to use once you're used to the handling. When you've learnt to relax and work with the machine and contours of the car it's so much smoother - switching back to the DA after the rotary feels like its going to shake you're arms off :doublesho!

Best thing I did after buying the rotary was to attend a course, it's a confidence thing to start with and having someone there who knows what they're doing is a huge help. As others have said smaller pads are easier to control, and a good backing plate helps a lot - I've got the Gloss-It plates and love them, but some seem to prefer a stiffer plate.


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## Mike_Rose (Jul 21, 2008)

mike_shrops said:


> Once you make the switch you won't regret it, the rotary is so much nicer to use once you're used to the handling. When you've learnt to relax and work with the machine and contours of the car it's so much smoother - switching back to the DA after the rotary feels like its going to shake you're arms off :doublesho!
> 
> Best thing I did after buying the rotary was to attend a course, it's a confidence thing to start with and having someone there who knows what they're doing is a huge help. As others have said smaller pads are easier to control, and a good backing plate helps a lot - I've got the Gloss-It plates and love them, but some seem to prefer a stiffer plate.


You know what, I'm gonna select rotary on that course I mentioned - might as well as I follow the guides to the letter when it comes to machine polishing so might as well take the plunge.

Thanks fella.


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## Pablo_uk (Feb 20, 2010)

I attended the North West machine poishing course that was run by Mirror Finish and Karl_Liverpool and it was such good value. We all learnt that the rotary isnt to be feared at all just handled with respect.

Making sure that the pad is properly primed before you start also makes a huge difference. Which rotary did you buy? Are you using it with the handle on or off as Karl showed that it was much easier to control with the handle removed and your hand placed over the head.


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