# Very thin paint readings. How should I care it?



## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Mainly paint is 100microns but there are places where is only 60-80microns. How should I treat it?

Is there any products what can preserve without having polish it twice?

My plan:

Polishing OP Polish II++white/green hex.
Coating: Optimum Opticoat 2/Gloss-coat. Some filling glaze+sealant after that?

Your thoughts?


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

what you want is 50 cal glaze or AF glaze, they are both filler heavy. polish the paint the normal way where the paint readings are good. where paint readings are low, use the above glazes it will fill all the scratches etc. 
I wouldnt use any polish where the readings are 70/80 micons especially if its lacquered


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

How well do you know your car? What car is it? 

70-80um may be factory paint, and the 130-140um could be respray.....

Without knowing the specifics, it's hard to say what to do. What's the paint readings on the door shuts?


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## camerashy (Feb 9, 2014)

-Raven- said:


> What's the paint readings on the door shuts?


and on the inside of the bonnet?.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

-Raven- said:


> How well do you know your car? What car is it?
> 
> 70-80um may be factory paint, and the 130-140um could be respray.....
> 
> Without knowing the specifics, it's hard to say what to do. What's the paint readings on the door shuts?


It isn't repainted. Only one small area where is 250microns.
Door shuts has this same 70microns.

Im thinking polish it there where it is possible and put coating top of it after that. Which one would I should use if I can use it only on time? Gloss-coat/Opticoat 2 or something like CQ UK/ADS Raven/Nanolex Si3D?

Which fillers heavy glaze can be used top of coating and works together with waxes and sealant after that?

Thanks.


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## greymda (Feb 16, 2014)

take a look here: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=349582


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

greymda said:


> take a look here: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=349582


I don't want to do that. I wan't to put coating and after that glaze+sealant/wax.:thumb:


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## Ultra (Feb 25, 2006)

If you intend to glaze,seal N wax then why waste time coating?


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

dennis said:


> If you intend to glaze,seal N wax then why waste time coating?


It will help in little bit avoid swirls in future.


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## Ultra (Feb 25, 2006)

sm81 said:


> It will help in little bit avoid swirls in future.


I know what you mean, but as long as you are glazing you wont see them anyway.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

dennis said:


> I know what you mean, but as long as you are glazing you wont see them anyway.


But I know that they are there:thumb:


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

sm81 said:


> It isn't repainted. Only one small area where is 250microns.
> Door shuts has this same 70microns.
> 
> Im thinking polish it there where it is possible and put coating top of it after that. Which one would I should use if I can use it only on time? Gloss-coat/Opticoat 2 or something like CQ UK/ADS Raven/Nanolex Si3D?
> ...


I'd get it looking as best you can, then coat the crap out of it. This is what I had to do with my own Honda, and I chose Echelon Zen Xero to do it. Apply a few layers and use all the coating in the bottle (like you should), and you'll be good for years.

It doesn't matter which one you use, but I'd go for a silica based one personally.

I wouldn't go using glazes, waxes, or sealants on top of coatings. They just don't last long at all. Take a look at Kamikaze Over Coat and what it does. Seems perfect for this job, and why I recently brought it to try out!


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## Alex L (Oct 25, 2005)

What you shouldn't do is watch machine polishing videos by Mattys good friend as he tells you to just use aggressive stuff first :thumb:


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

-Raven- said:


> Apply a few layers and use all the coating in the bottle (like you should), and you'll be good for years.
> 
> It doesn't matter which one you use, but *I'd go for a silica based one *personally.
> 
> Take a look at Kamikaze Over Coat and what it does. Seems perfect for this job, and why I recently brought it to try out!


Why you choose silica based over others? (Resin)? Kamikaze look very good but it is so costly:wall:


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

sm81 said:


> Why you choose silica based over others? (Resin)? Kamikaze look very good but it is so costly:wall:


looks first and foremost, top ups and maintenance a very close second.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

-Raven- said:


> looks first and foremost, top ups and maintenance a very close second.


How resistance Kamikaze is comparing Reload2014/2015? Have you tried to apply Overcoat in DA method? How many layers you can get to it?


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

sm81 said:


> How resistance Kamikaze is comparing Reload2014/2015? Have you tried to apply Overcoat in DA method? How many layers you can get to it?


I haven't tried mine yet, but Over Coat is a spray sealant. I've got the 100ml bottle, but they sell a 250ml bottle as well. Should get more than enough use out of the 100ml bottle me thinks.....


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

-Raven- said:


> I haven't tried mine yet, but Over Coat is a spray sealant. I've got the 100ml bottle, but they sell a 250ml bottle as well. Should get more than enough use out of the 100ml bottle me thinks.....


Yes. Reload is spray sealant also. Tell us your findings when you have time. Thanks


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## Leebo310 (Sep 30, 2013)

cheekymonkey said:


> I wouldnt use any polish where the readings are 70/80 micons especially if its lacquered


Why not out of interest? Surely there should still be enough cc there when you're only talking about removing another 2-3 microns tops? As long as you're careful and don't go too aggressive then why wouldn't you?


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Leebo310 said:


> Why not out of interest? Surely there should still be enough cc there when you're only talking about removing another 2-3 microns tops? As long as you're careful and don't go too aggressive then why wouldn't you?


yep, and considering we are seeing paint such as Mazda coming straight from factory that thin too.....


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

Leebo310 said:


> Why not out of interest? Surely there should still be enough cc there when you're only talking about removing another 2-3 microns tops? As long as you're careful and don't go too aggressive then why wouldn't you?


when the rest of the paint is reading 130/140 and has said it has had no paint work done then you have to take into consideration why is the 1 place so much less. there is a massive difference between a paint that is factory thin and a paint that has a good reading except in 1 place. 
the paint is made up of 3 parts undercoat,colour and clear coat. So with a reading 130/140 as a basic break down is the reading split into 3. so you take the 130 split 3 ways is about 45 each. Take the low reading at 70/80 then there is very little to play with. factory thin of 70/80 will have far more clear coat then a paint that has been polished down to 70/80
Dosent matter how careful you are if theres not enough clear coat you will strike through


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

Yes safety first, but a finishing polish will remove next to nothing. Case by case basis of course..... this case will be coating afterwards so I'd be more inclined to get the paint as perfect as I could with in reason.


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

yea a coating will, another consideration is what paint it is. A finishing polish will remove far more on soft jap paint compared to german hard paint. what car is it?


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

cheekymonkey said:


> yea a coating will, another consideration is what paint it is. A finishing polish will remove far more on soft jap paint compared to german hard paint. what car is it?


Mitsubishi Lancer 2006 petrol. Like this: http://www.caradvice.com.au/2499/2006-mitsubishi-lancer-vr-x-road-test/photos/


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Unfortunately there is many deep scratch and swirls what can't polished off. Which coating would hide them most?


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## greymda (Feb 16, 2014)

afaik, a coating would do just the opposite: emphasize them.

but can be wrong.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

-Raven- said:


> Yes safety first, but a finishing polish will remove next to nothing. Case by case basis of course..... this case will be coating afterwards so I'd be more inclined to get the paint as perfect as I could with in reason.


So OP Polish II and white hex together with DA would be ok?


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## cheekymonkey (Mar 15, 2008)

sm81 said:


> Mitsubishi Lancer 2006 petrol. Like this: http://www.caradvice.com.au/2499/2006-mitsubishi-lancer-vr-x-road-test/photos/


mitsi paint is so so soft, i would only use a filler glaze and not machine where the paint is thin


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

cheekymonkey said:


> mitsi paint is so so soft, i would only use a filler glaze and not machine where the paint is thin


What would be your suggestion that would work together with Kamikaze Overcoat?


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

sm81 said:


> So OP Polish II and white hex together with DA would be ok?


For what you're doing, I'd give it a hit, even if it was with a glazing pad and finishing polish. Just don't chase the scratches. It's your car, you know the risks, it's up to you.

One product you could have a look at is a Glare polish. :thumb:


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

How much light polish will typical take of laquer? Is 2-5micro enough for swirls?


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## Bod42 (Jun 4, 2009)

How about Wolfs Glaze and their compatible coating. Seems to give you everything you want.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Bod42 said:


> How about Wolfs Glaze and their compatible coating. Seems to give you everything you want.


Didn't get it with BG.


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## Bod42 (Jun 4, 2009)

Bg?????


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Bod42 said:


> Bg?????


bodyguard coating


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## greymda (Feb 16, 2014)

sm81 said:


> Didn't get it with BG.


tried this weekend. very pleased by results. you can find my thread in the Showroom area, the Smart Roadster one


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