# Civic Type R Milano Red paint correction help



## steve0 (Dec 27, 2009)

Hi,

I was fortunate enough to receive some very nice detailing gear for christmas. This comprised of the following:

Kestrel DAS-6
LC green pads (large and small)
LC orange pads (large and small)
Smaller backing plate
Menzerna final polish II
Natty Paste Wax
Selection of decent microfibres etc

I had a go with this over the weekend on just my bonnet, which had relatively bad swirl marks. I managed to improve on them very slightly, but this was only after several passes using the Menzerna polish and the orange pads. Looking under a spot lamp the swirl marks are still very apparent though - i've only really improved on the glossiness of the bonnet.

I've since waxed the bonnet as the car is being used daily and I don't wish to leave it unprotected.

I'm going to go back to it soon and have another go at correction as I feel it has a long way to go still.

Is it worth me looking at a different combination of pad and polish? or shall I continue with what I've got - and just give it more passes?

I've been following advice from this forum, and did the following:

-fully clayed and prepared the bonnet first!
-used the larger orange pad and a small amount of polish (enough to lightly cover the area I was working)
-only did a small area of the bonnet at a time (12" square)
-worked the polish in at speed 1 for about 40 seconds to spread it out
-used a higher speed to break down the polish and work it on the paint work; did this until the polish was clear and barely visible (about 3-4 minutes)

For information - the car is a honda civic with milano red paint - and is 2002.

Thanks in advance,
Steve


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## PJS (Aug 18, 2007)

As the car is 7 years old, then if still the original paint, it will be much harder than is typically suggested for Hondas.
You might need a more aggressive pad or polish to knock back the marks, presuming they're not too deep.
It might also be you need to apply a bit more pressure, but I suspect it's more aggressive pad/polish that you need.
Everything else you've said you've done, looks fine.


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## steve0 (Dec 27, 2009)

Thanks for the reply.

Yes the car still has all original paint - so the theory on it being harder than standard probably fits!

What combination would you recommend I try? Perhaps Menzerna P085RD 3.02?? And on which Pad?


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

Another things worth considering here, in addition to the fact that the paint may be harder than you expect (its always best never to guess at paint hardness, and treat every car as an individual unknown), is the polish that you were using. Final Polish II is one of the "older" style of Menzerna polishes which like PO91L and S34A uses a more brittle style of abrasive. Initial heavy pressure in a machine polishing set with these types of polish can "shatter" the abrasives and reduce the overall cut available from them. 

I suspect you have been recommended these polishes on the assumption that your car has soft paint as these brittle abrasives are a little more user friendly in that they do remove a little less paint (less correction) and are less prone to micromarring if the technique is not good. Of course one can mitigate the issue of micromarring by simply learning how to break the polishes down correctly and thus take the benefits out of the ceramiclear abrasives used in the other Menzerna polishes in terms of greater available correction. 

If you want to try the Final Polish II that you have again, just for a wee look-see, try it by only spending a quick few seconds on spreading the polish at low speeds - fast machine movements, get the residue spread out and ready to work... spend a little more time if it is cold and the residue is clumping a little but once evenly spread, stop. Up to speeds 4 - 5, and with only light pressure move the machine across the area at a slow pace of 1" per second for a couple of minutes before steadily increasing the pressure after this, and keep going until the polish starts to lightly dust with FPII. Very slow machine movements are key, along with correct pressure and the work area and work time which by reading above I can see look pretty good as it stands.

If you are still having no luck, then I would be looking to try PO85RD3.02 Intensive Polish on a polishing pad, this time after spreading go straight to amedium pressure that slows the pad rotation down but does not stop it. Slow movements, long work time, small area. Work until residue goes clear and watery looking, expect a good four or five minutes. You could also try PO106FA Final Finish before the Intensive Polish, it has a little more cut than Final Polish II, but it the FPII was really struggling under the correct technique then 106FA may also struggle. f it was me, I would buy both the 106FA and 85RD3.02 to trial them, but that is two polishes rather than one and the former may prove not to be suitable - you pays your money.


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## steve0 (Dec 27, 2009)

Thanks for your reply Dave - this is exactly what I was looking for!

I'll order up both polishes you recommended - I'm looking to build up my 'suite' of polishes so these may come in handy with other cars anyway!

Can you tell me what pads you'd recommend with these polishes - Colours always make things easier 

Thanks in advance..


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## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

If it is Lake Country, I would actually recommend starting out by trying both 106FA and 85RD3.02 on white polishing pads, but yu don't have them listed... in whcih case I would be going for the green polishing pads from your list. I prefer touse softer white polishing pads for my initial sets and only step the pad up if I need it. Having one of the black finessing pads on hand wont do any harm either if you want to use either the 106FA or FPII after Intensive Polish (if you use it) to refine the finish and enhance the gloss.


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