# Optimum Polish II vs Carpro Fixer comments?



## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Hello folks.

What are the main differences about these two polishes? Optimum is non-diminishing and Fixer is diminishing? Which one cuts more and what about finishing various kind of paints?

I have bought Scholl s20 but it seems that it is quite oily and needs to APC wash to get rid of oils after polishing and I don't have place to do that. I have cleanser fluid that works well together with fixer though.

What are Cons and pros:

Thanks.


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## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

sm81 said:


> Hello folks.
> 
> What are the main differences about these two polishes? Optimum is non-diminishing and Fixer is diminishing? Which one cuts more and what about finishing various kind of paints?
> 
> ...


I can trade Optimum Hyper polish, sprayable polish, for S20. AFAIK Polish II and Hyper polish is using non diminishing abrasives. Not sure about Fixer though.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Porta said:


> I can trade Optimum Hyper polish, sprayable polish, for S20. AFAIK Polish II and Hyper polish is using non diminishing abrasives. Not sure about Fixer though.


Thanks for offer but it is too expensive to send overseas.


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## caledonia (Sep 13, 2008)

It had been sometime since I have ventured near Hyper polish, so might be mistaken here. But to my understanding Hyper polish is a ****tail of larger brittle diminishing abrasives and non diminishing finish abrasive in the mix. It is very versatile although mixing take a bit of work especially if left for sometime with out use. 

Fixer to falls under the same heading as a ****tail of varying size of abrasives. Some brittle and some ceramic longer running. But it only contains diminishing abrasives.
HTH
Gordon.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

The original Hyper Polish was a mixture of SMAT and DAT but the later versions are SMAT only as it created some problems on very soft paint. As I understand it the Polish II is stronger than the Hyper Polish and both will finish very well.

I have not tried the Fixer polish so cannot say how it compares. I have compared to Gtech P1, from memory the Gtech had more cut than the Optimum polishes but I found the Optimum much nicer to use. On my car I use M101 for compounding and Optimum for everything else


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## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

sm81 said:


> Thanks for offer but it is too expensive to send overseas.


I have a lot of things that I can use to compensate the shipping. 0,5 kilos from the UK is not expensive, from a swedish point of view.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

I own both OP-II (Non-diminishing) and Fixer (Diminishing + non-diminishing if memory serves.), so this is an easy comparison for me to make. They both have a P1500 equivalent grade of cut (I.E. Both, with a suitably aggressive pad, can remove P1500 sanding scratches.).

Of the two my preference is by far and away Optimum Polish II; I find it much more versatile in regards to its ability to cut and finish on a wide variety of paint types, and I find its working characteristics much more forgiving. OP-II has superb water-based lubricants that require only a wipedown with a damp MF towel to be removed completely from the surface, and has a truly epic working time. This allows for more 'potential' correction power if you need it, but since it is a non-diminishing polish, you can reduce pressure and stop at any time you see fit. While I think that it is important to have a small selection of polishes on hand in various grades to tackle different situations, I can say that OP-II is the one I find myself using for most of my correction work, and is the one I would pick if I could only have one polish in my collection. However, having said that, I mostly work on softer paint finishes, where a well-lubed medium polish like this takes the place of an aggressive compound. If you aren't regularly doing 100% correction details on Audi's and Mercs, this will handle most of your needs. Just read this post on how to use it: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4, and you'll be fine.

Don't get me wrong; Fixer is not a bad polish by any means. I find it works superbly well on medium-hard paints, both cutting a tiny bit faster, and refining a little further than OP-II can. However, on softer paints, I do not find it has sufficient lubrication to finish without marring. Its working characteristics can also be somewhat 'eccentric' in humid conditions, or in extremes of temperature, so it's not a polish I can always rely on if I'm working outside. In a workshop environment, and on a harder paint type, it works beautifully. If I was working mostly with harder paint types instead of soft, my recommendation may be in reverse, but its inability to work on all finishes is ultimately its downfall for me. OP-II excels on soft-moderate paints, and can be pushed (Quite literally; more pressure and a more aggressive pad.) to perform well on harder paints, but I have never been able to get Fixer to pull the same trick in reverse.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Porta said:


> I have a lot of things that I can use to compensate the shipping. 0,5 kilos from the UK is not expensive, from a swedish point of view.


De är sant men jag Bo i finland.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> I own both OP-II (Non-diminishing) and Fixer (Diminishing + non-diminishing if memory serves.), so this is an easy comparison for me to make. They both have a P1500 equivalent grade of cut (I.E. Both, with a suitably aggressive pad, can remove P1500 sanding scratches.).
> 
> Of the two my preference is by far and away Optimum Polish II; I find it much more versatile in regards to its ability to cut and finish on a wide variety of paint types, and I find its working characteristics much more forgiving. OP-II has superb water-based lubricants that require only a wipedown with a damp MF towel to be removed completely from the surface, and has a truly epic working time. This allows for more 'potential' correction power if you need it, but since it is a non-diminishing polish, you can reduce pressure and stop at any time you see fit. While I think that it is important to have a small selection of polishes on hand in various grades to tackle different situations, I can say that OP-II is the one I find myself using for most of my correction work, and is the one I would pick if I could only have one polish in my collection. However, having said that, I mostly work on softer paint finishes, where a well-lubed medium polish like this takes the place of an aggressive compound. If you aren't regularly doing 100% correction details on Audi's and Mercs, this will handle most of your needs. Just read this post on how to use it: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4, and you'll be fine.
> 
> ...


Helps a Lot:thumb: Thanks Steampunk. Is elite best place to buy Optimum polishes?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Helps a Lot:thumb: Thanks Steampunk. Is elite best place to buy Optimum polishes?


Not sure; probably. I'm not in Finland, so I've never done research on where someone from that location may get the best shipping deal. I have ordered from Elite before, and their international shipping is a bit steep once you start creeping up towards a kilogram, so I would try to keep it small.

Glad I was able to help :thumb:...

Steampunk


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## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

Suomi  I can look up the shipping rates if you want? I have Polish II as well. I have been looking at S20 for a long time but I have so many polishes and so little time.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Porta said:


> Suomi  I can look up the shipping rates if you want? I have Polish II as well. I have been looking at S20 for a long time but I have so many polishes and so little time.


OK. How old your Optimum Polish II is and is it open bottle? I haven't opened scholl yet


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

I think Motorgeek, CYC, Elite and several other places sell the Optimum polishes. Elite were selling the Hyper Polish & Compound at a discounted price if you bought both, no idea if this is still on. From memory the Optimum paste (non spray) polishes were roughly £10 bottle

Excellent comparison Steampunk, it is always better when someone has used both products


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## Cquartz (Jan 31, 2009)

Steampunk said:


> I own both OP-II (Non-diminishing) and Fixer (Diminishing + non-diminishing if memory serves.), so this is an easy comparison for me to make. They both have a P1500 equivalent grade of cut (I.E. Both, with a suitably aggressive pad, can remove P1500 sanding scratches.).
> 
> Of the two my preference is by far and away Optimum Polish II; I find it much more versatile in regards to its ability to cut and finish on a wide variety of paint types, and I find its working characteristics much more forgiving. OP-II has superb water-based lubricants that require only a wipedown with a damp MF towel to be removed completely from the surface, and has a truly epic working time. This allows for more 'potential' correction power if you need it, but since it is a non-diminishing polish, you can reduce pressure and stop at any time you see fit. While I think that it is important to have a small selection of polishes on hand in various grades to tackle different situations, I can say that OP-II is the one I find myself using for most of my correction work, and is the one I would pick if I could only have one polish in my collection. However, having said that, I mostly work on softer paint finishes, where a well-lubed medium polish like this takes the place of an aggressive compound. If you aren't regularly doing 100% correction details on Audi's and Mercs, this will handle most of your needs. Just read this post on how to use it: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4, and you'll be fine.
> 
> ...


Steampunk, i think you used the former version of Fixer, we have upgrade it lately with more lube and more finishing grit powder, you should try the new one, contact Corey he will gladly send you sample
just make sure to use the right pad for soft paint as well.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Cquartz said:


> Steampunk, i think you used the former version of Fixer, we have upgrade it lately with more lube and more finishing grit powder, you should try the new one, contact Corey he will gladly send you sample
> just make sure to use the right pad for soft paint as well.


When you have upgrade it? I have bought Fixer last summer.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Cquartz said:


> Steampunk, i think you used the former version of Fixer, we have upgrade it lately with more lube and more finishing grit powder, you should try the new one, contact Corey he will gladly send you sample
> just make sure to use the right pad for soft paint as well.


Hi Avi,

Thank you for the heads up on the update; I will make sure to sort out a sample, and give the product another look. As I expressed, my views on the older version (Purchased about 5-months ago.) were not all bad. In my experience, what makes a product good on soft paint can also reduce its effectiveness on hard paint, and as such all polishes are something of a compromise. Old Fixer simply seemed to be a compromise in the favor of harder paint types, which are more prevalent than soft, so I kept it in my collection for just such occasions.

As a side note I work mostly on cars with softer paint, so most of my pads/products are geared towards this kind of work, and I am used to playing with my technique to get the results I want. Based upon my understanding of polish formulation, the changes you have recently put in place sound like they will solve most of the issues I had with the original version, and I am very excited to try it! :thumb:

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

So when Fixer has been upgraded? What are chances?


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

sm81 said:


> So when Fixer has been upgraded? What are chances?


:wave: Does anybody know anything? Andy, Steampunk, somebody?


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Cquartz said:


> Steampunk, i think you used the former version of Fixer, we have upgrade it lately with more lube and more finishing grit powder, you should try the new one, contact Corey he will gladly send you sample
> just make sure to use the right pad for soft paint as well.


I would gladly take sample also. I have tried fixer and it is lovely but doesn't cut enough.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> Hi Avi,
> 
> Thank you for the heads up on the update; I will make sure to sort out a sample, and give the product another look. As I expressed, my views on the older version (Purchased about 5-months ago.) were not all bad....... Based upon my understanding of polish formulation, the changes you have recently put in place sound like they will solve most of the issues I had with the original version, and I am very excited to try it! :thumb:
> 
> Steampunk


Have you tried new version yet? What are your opinion of that? Has it improve or is Optimum Polish II still your favorite?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Have you tried new version yet? What are your opinion of that? Has it improve or is Optimum Polish II still your favorite?


Whoa! Give it a chance to arrive yet ... I'll make sure to post my opinion when I get my package, but until that time I am afraid I have no new information. OP-II is still a really good polish; that hasn't changed, and if you purchase it you will not be disappointed. Hopefully the new version of Fixer is a little more versatile in its ability to handle softer paint types, but the changes implemented are not going to make it replace every polish ever made. It simply doesn't work that way...

Steampunk

P.S. If Fixer doesn't have enough cut, you need a compound, or a more aggressive pad.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

sm81 said:


> So when Fixer has been upgraded? What are chances?


Still haven't got any answer


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Still haven't got any answer


You purchased Fixer just slightly before I did, so you definitely have the old version. I just received the new version, and have begun testing, but I will get some results up soon. 

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Looking forward your review. Especially how it compares against Optimum.:thumb:


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## ph0 (Aug 16, 2012)

sm81 said:


> it seems that it is quite oily and needs to APC wash to get rid of oils after polishing and I don't have place to do that.


Weird. Just use spray bottles. Spray with some apc:water mix, wipe with mf, then spray with eraser, wipe with mf. Done? Dunno i guess multi eraser, or ipa wipeouts would be okay to ensure clean surface.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> Hi Avi,
> 
> Thank you for the heads up on the update; I will make sure to sort out a sample, and give the product another look. Based upon my understanding of polish formulation, the changes you have recently put in place sound like they will solve most of the issues I had with the original version, and I am very excited to try it! :thumb:
> 
> Steampunk


Nock nock:wave::lol:


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

The weather has not exactly been clement where I live, so I was intending to wait a little bit and gather more experience with the product before posting. However, as you are impatient for an answer, I will endeavor to compile my initial impressions of the latest version (From hereon known as Fixer II)...

Do you like Fixer I? If so, you will like Fixer II even more. It builds on the strengths of the original, granting both a smoother polishing experience due to better lubrication, and a bit more gloss than before. The initial cut level and working time remain largely unchanged, which is a good thing, as I always thought these to be very well judged. It also seems 'happiest' on moderate-hard paints, just like the Fixer I did, though Fixer II is notably more flexible than before in regards to its soft-paint finishing abilities. On a whole, I am glad to have both Fixer II & Optimum Polish II (Along with half a dozen other polishes/compounds) in my arsenal, and honestly would not wish to make the choice between them. 

OP-II seems to work a little better on soft-moderate paints, but can also be used with success on hard paints if needed. Fixer II seems to work a little better on moderate-hard paints, but can also be used with success on soft paints if needed. They each excel in their own individual environments, and if you have to make a choice, I would do so based upon which paints you work on the most. If you are dealing with Audi, BMW, etc most regularly, then Fixer II will correct and finish on these vehicles much faster (Especially with wool pads; this is a lovely combo.). If you are working on more 'finicky' or sensitive paint types, OP-II may be a little easier to work with, and is still one of the most reliable and versatile polishes in my arsenal. I really do like them both...

Hopefully this helps.

Steampunk


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Good review Steampunk. Sounds like an interesting product to buy


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Thanks for feedback Stempunk! One more question. Which one are fills more? Does Fixer II APC wash after correction or is IPA wipe sufficient?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Thanks for feedback Stempunk! One more question. Which one are fills more? Does Fixer II APC wash after correction or is IPA wipe sufficient?


Neither are big fillers, and both wipe away with little effort. Fixer II's residue can be easily removed with IPA or Eraser, but OP-II takes this theme a step further... All Optimum polishes are water soluble, and can be completely removed with a damp microfiber towel or water spritz. If you're applying a nano-coating I would still do an IPA or panel wipedown afterwards, but mostly just to ensure that their are no fingerprints or mineral deposits left on the surface. Otherwise OP-II is pretty much residue free.

Fixer II primarily uses diminishing abrasives, while OP-II uses non-diminishing abrasives, so that is another factor you may want to consider. If you are more comfortable with diminishing abrasive products, Fixer II will feel less alien (The required technique is a slightly modified Zenith Point), while OP-II is more suited to those used to using the Kevin Brown Method: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4. I'm used to working with both, but some people are more comfortable with one system or the other, in which case this may be a determining factor.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

I have read your guide but I don't understand everything. But it seems that I would get better and quicker cutting ability with OP polish II because it is non-diminishing polish and I use cyclo copy DA. Does it work OK with CG hex orange, green and white pads. I have those.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> I have read your guide but I don't understand everything. But it seems that I would get better and quicker cutting ability with OP polish II because it is non-diminishing polish and I use cyclo copy DA. Does it work OK with CG hex orange, green and white pads. I have those.


It really depends... Diminishing polishes use abrasive grains that are clumped together so they start out *big*, but as you work the product the clumps disintegrate, and you are left with a bunch of *small* abrasive grains. Non-Diminishing polishes use abrasives the remain at a consistent size. You can adjust the cut level of non-diminishing polishes by increasing or decreasing pressure, whereas the cut level of diminishing polishes decreases automatically. There are finer points to this, but as you are already confused, I will not elaborate further.

With diminishing polishes you can theoretically start out with a much more aggressive cut, and end up with a much finer cut than you can with non-diminishing abrasives. For OP-II to obtain the same results as Fixer II on hard paint, I have to work the product longer, and Fixer II has an incremental edge in finishing ability on these types of paint. On soft and finicky paint finishes, Fixer II isn't as easy to manipulate as OP-II, so I tend to get more control and as such a better finish with the latter. I can still get Fixer II to finish down on softer paint types, but it takes a bit more fiddling, and often removes more paint in the process. You can get good results on a wide variety of paint types with both, but each has areas where they are more comfortable in.

Yes, OP-II works fine with those pads (Especially the orange and white), though I would recommend also getting black hex finishing pads. To be honest, my first objective would be upgrading your machine, and getting a proper DA polisher. Variable speed, more power, and a larger selection of pads is going to do you more good than any polish will on its own.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> Steampunk


Yes it really help. I'm not confused. I understand basic principle very well but my english isn't perfect.

Maybe I will order OP Polish II next time. Time to "gear up" to SMAT non-diminishing polish:thumb:

Thanks again


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Yes it really help. I'm not confused. I understand basic principle very well but my english isn't perfect.
> 
> Maybe I will order OP Polish II next time. Time to "gear up" to SMAT non-diminishing polish:thumb:
> 
> Thanks again


I apologize for my misunderstanding. If you need any more assistance, just let me know :thumb:....

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> I apologize for my misunderstanding. If you need any more assistance, just let me know :thumb:....
> 
> Steampunk


I can polish 4-6 car with one 250ml bottle of fixer. How many car you can polish when you use OP Polish II 8oz bottle


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## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

Hey neighbor, optimum polishes are economical and I am sure that you can do at least 5 cars with a 8 oz bottle.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> I can polish 4-6 car with one 250ml bottle of fixer. How many car you can polish when you use OP Polish II 8oz bottle


That really depends upon the vehicle, the length of the sets, and whether I am using the same product for a secondary refining stage. On a large 4X4 with two correction stages (Heavy cutting & final finishing), and long sets, I may only be able to do two such vehicles out of a 250ml/8oz bottle. On a small 3-door hatchback/supermini, or a small sportscar, with only 1-stage and short sets, I could conceivably polish 7-8 such vehicles. Fully priming the pad takes a lot of product, but after that your polish consumption is typically much less than with diminishing abrasives.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> That really depends upon the vehicle, the length of the sets, and whether I am using the same product for a secondary refining stage. On a large 4X4 with two correction stages (Heavy cutting & final finishing), and long sets, I may only be able to do two such vehicles out of a 250ml/8oz bottle. On a small 3-door hatchback/supermini, or a small sportscar, with only 1-stage and short sets, I could conceivably polish 7-8 such vehicles. Fully priming the pad takes a lot of product, but after that your polish consumption is typically much less than with diminishing abrasives.
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> Steampunk


That was very illuminating answer So you need only 2 drops of product in pad after priming it in one set?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> That was very illuminating answer So you need only 2 drops of product in pad after priming it in one set?


Basically, to prime the pad, you make a great big swirl of polish, and then work it in with your hands until the surface of the pad is uniformly polish-colour just like this: http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/polishing-how-to-with-meguiars-m105-m205/ (Yes, this is Meguiar's, but the technique is the same.).

As you can see, a substantial amount of product is initially required. After that, the amount of product needed is quite low, but varies depending upon the amount of correction you are doing. OP-II has a VERY long potential working time (You'll get bored before this polish dries), so if you are only doing 2-4 quick passes per 18"X18" section, you could theoretically polish an entire panel without adding extra product. If you are making 6-8 long passes per 18"X18" section, you may need to add another 2-3 small drops of product more frequently.

As you can probably tell so far, there is no set rule as to how to use these polishes, and you can get very creative if necessary to achieve your desired results.

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Thanks for link. I will rest my case.... for now:thumb:


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Does OP Polish II cuts as good than GTechniq P1? What about finishing?


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

I have only used the original version of the Optimum paste polish and I would say P1 (rotary + wool and foam) has more cut however the Optimum is much nicer to use


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

In which way it is nicer to use?


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Optimum is almost like polishing with butter, the process is very smooth plus it has a very long work time which is probably not the strength of P1. With P1 you need to give a quick spray of water to increase the work time. This is not a huge issue although can be a pain when working on vertical panels such as a door. The Optimum does not dust and clean up is very easy, P1 is also easy to clean but can be a bit messy to use. I like P1 with a wool pad, it is very quick to cut paint and quite easy to remove holograms etc. I use P1 less these days as I tend to use the Meguiars 101 for heavy work

I have both Optimum Hyper polishes and P1, both have their place but I would probably miss the Optimum more if I had to give them both up.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

How much I get cut if I use OP Polish II together with orange CG hex foam pad?
Do I get enough to correct hard paints?


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

On very hard paint you will not get a lot of cutting done. Relastically you would probably be better off with something like the Optimum Compound II (not tried it) or Megs 105/101 or any of the other stronger compounds


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Optimum Polish II is capable of some fairly serious correction, even on hard paints, but will need a change of pads to do so. In my experience, OP-II combined with microfiber cutting pads (Available in smaller sizes for your Cyclo-copy, though a DA would be preferred.) is very effective at removing P2000 grade sanding scratches, and with the CarPro Cool Wool pads (Available in 5" & 6" sizes only at this point.) can pull out P1500 grade marks without much drama. I talk in terms of sanding scratches, as these are easily defined, and repeatable types of defects; thus making them ideal for comparing the performance of polishes. This is very good performance for a medium polish that can also finish out well on a variety of finishes. Nevertheless there are still times when I need a heavier compound, or a finer finishing polish to achieve my aims. 

Version II V2 is a very different animal to the original Optimum Polish formula, using entirely non-diminishing abrasives, and is very similar in ultimate cutting potential to the Fixer polish that you are used to.

I have not had the pleasure of using GTechniq P1, but from the reviews that I have read it is not vastly dissimilar to Meguiar's #105 in its working characteristics (Short working time, need for water spritz to extend set, and P1000-1200 grade cut that can also finish down well on certain finishes with a change of pad.). If you need a compound like this, it may be a good option. On some ultra-hard paints, you may be able to correct heavy defects with OP-II using very aggressive pads (I.E. Wool), lots of pressure, long sets, and maybe a bit of wetsanding, but a compound like M105/101 or P1 will do the job quicker and easier before moving on to a refining stage. 

I believe that your pad selection, and possibly the power of your machine may be the biggest limiting factors in getting the maximum cutting potential out of OP-II (Or any polish, for that matter.) on harder finishes, so I would try and address these issues first before trying to solve it with product. If for some reason you do not feel that you can change these, you can purchase a selection of more aggressive polishes to compensate somewhat (M105 on an orange foam cuts about the same as OP-II on a more aggressive microfiber cutting pad in my experience.), but this is not an ideal solution. 

My sentiments on the Optimum polishes are very similar to Lowejackson's. They are not suitable or at least ideal for all occasions, but if I could only keep one of my polishes, OP-II is about as flexible as it gets. 

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk: I bought Op Polish II polish. Can you make some guide how to use it? I have CG orange, green and white pads. I will polish one Toyota corolla year 1999 and 2003. One Ford Fiesta 2003.

I have cyclocopy machine. How to get most of it?
Thanks.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Steampunk: I bought Op Polish II polish. Can you make some guide how to use it? I have CG orange, green and white pads. I will polish one Toyota corolla year 1999 and 2003. One Ford Fiesta 2003.
> 
> I have cyclocopy machine. How to get most of it?
> Thanks.


Hello,

Well, it's a SMAT or non-diminishing polish, so will require the Kevin Brown Method (Outlined here:http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4) to get the most out of it.

Because of the consistency of the product, I personally like to fully prime the face of the pad, and then run it against the face of a microfiber towel with the power on to wipe off the excess. Afterwards I apply two pea-sized dots of product to the pad, and work it on from their. This adaptation of the KBM isn't strictly necessary, but in my experience helps to prevent over-application, and gets the product distributed a little more evenly on the foam. If using a microfiber pad, blowing it out with compressed air after priming (But before applying two dots to work with) will help to prevent clumping. After the pad is primed, a little bit goes a long way with OP-II, so only apply additional product as necessary to keep the pad moist with polish. If working longer sets, apply two dots of product after every section, if working shorter sets, you can get away adding more product after every 2-3 sets.

Beyond employing the KBM, normal rules of polishing apply:

Start out with your mildest pad, and work your way up...

Keep an eye on your correction rate...

Following heavy cutting stage with milder pad to removing hazing...

Periodically clean pads with brush or microfiber to remove excess residue...

Switch to a fresh pad at least 2-3 times throughout the polishing process to prevent building up paint residues that will hinder the polishing process, and induce micro-marring...

You get the gist .

I've said this before, but you REALLY need to get some finishing pads!!! The black Hex-Logic would do. I would also get some microfiber pads that fit your machine (Megs do 4.25" pads that will fit your machine.), as these cut and finish better than your orange foam pads. You might get away with using the white pads for finishing on moderate-hard finishes, but anything on the softer side will need a 90ppi pad to finish down absolutely perfectly, and even harder paints will get a higher gloss from a final finishing step.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask... :thumb:

Steampunk


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Steampunk said:


> Hello,
> 
> Well, it's a SMAT or non-diminishing polish, so will require the Kevin Brown Method (Outlined here:http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4) to get the most out of it.
> 
> ...


Very nice writeup :thumb:


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> Hello,
> 
> I've said this before, but you REALLY need to get some finishing pads!!! The black Hex-Logic would do. You might get away with using the white pads for finishing on moderate-hard finishes, but anything on the softer side will need a 90ppi pad to finish down absolutely perfectly, and even harder paints will get a higher gloss from a final finishing step.
> 
> ...


Do I really notice different of white and black polishing pad? I remember that white has minimal cut and it is pressure dependent?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Do I really notice different of white and black polishing pad? I remember that white has minimal cut and it is pressure dependent?


Yes, you really will experience a difference with a black finishing pad in regards to gloss, and certainly in regards to finishing out without a faint hazing on very soft paint finishes. The black has even less cut than the white, so will really only serve to slightly increase the gloss on harder finishes, but on softer finishes it's ideal for correcting light wash marring/swirling in 1-step with OP-II.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Do I need APC wash after Optimum Polish II or does IPA/cleanser fluid are sufficient to ensure clean paint condition?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Do I need APC wash after Optimum Polish II or does IPA/cleanser fluid are sufficient to ensure clean paint condition?


As said before, OP-II is fully water soluble, and you can use distilled water or tap water with just a dash of ONR mixed in to fully remove the product residue. If you're applying a nano-sealant afterwards, it's always wise to do an IPA or solvent wipedown to make sure that there are no contaminants on the surface, but otherwise OP-II is the cleanest working polish in my collection.

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Steampunk said:


> As said before, OP-II is fully water soluble, and you can use distilled water or tap water with just a dash of ONR mixed in to fully remove the product residue. If you're applying a nano-sealant afterwards, it's always wise to do an IPA or solvent wipedown to make sure that there are no contaminants on the surface, but otherwise OP-II is the cleanest working polish in my collection.
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> Steampunk


Hard to believe that it doesn't contains ANY oils? But I think that you have confirmed that to manufacturer. Just waiting to right time and weather to work with it. One red Fiesta and couple corollas waiting.

P.s Have you find any good Youtube video how to use OPII? I haven't.


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Hard to believe that it doesn't contains ANY oils? But I think that you have confirmed that to manufacturer. Just waiting to right time and weather to work with it. One red Fiesta and couple corollas waiting.
> 
> P.s Have you find any good Youtube video how to use OPII? I haven't.


The lubricant used is a water-based polymer, and can basically be diluted away. It's not like the conventional oil & water emulsions that are used by Menzerna, Meguiar's, Scholl, etc. You can always send an e-mail to Dr. Ghodoussi if you want him to elaborate on one of his products, and he can sometimes be quite helpful in this regard.

OP-II is a SMAT polish, and aside from the slight variances which I mentioned in my previous post, works exactly like Meguiar's #105/205/101/100/86/D300/D151/UC/UP, etc. Just Google those products, and you will see videos of them [sometimes] being used properly. All the same techniques apply to OP-II. It's not really like Menzerna or similar DAT polishes, where you have to follow a highly structured series of steps to get the best results; you just kind of make it up as you go in order to deal with the defects at hand.

Last night I stuck it [OP-II] on a cool wool pad to remove some fingernail-catchingly deep RIDS on a DVD, worked it a little longer with a little more pressure on those areas, reduced pressure, lightly buzzed over the entire surface to remove the moderate swirling present, switched to a white polishing pad (Didn't wipe the polish residue from the surface; just primed the new pad, and continued polishing.), removed the faint wool marring in a few seconds using diminishing pressure, wiped off the residue with water, and was left with a factory-fresh looking disc. Yes, I know it's not a car, but it does demonstrate the flexible technique that one uses with products like this.

If you want to just amp up the gloss of the paint, use your softest pad, with zero pressure, and make a pass or two at medium-low speeds. If you want to remove heavy defects, put it on a more aggressive microfiber or even wool pad, give it as much pressure as the machine can take without bogging down at medium-high speeds, and work for longer sets. If you stop there with no alteration of technique, this will leave marring, so reduce pressure to reduce the depth of the defects. If marring is still present, use the same product but on a less aggressive pad to remove what is left. Speed (Is your Cyclo-copy variable speed?) for the most part just adjusts the time you spend polishing, but it can also adjust the amount of heat generated by polishing. On softer paints, lower speeds will equal less heat, and less problems. On harder paints, higher speeds will just make the work go a bit faster. With MF pads on my DA, I use 3000-5000 OPM with OP-II. When hammering hard paint with a cool wool or foam compounding pad, I might go up to 6000 OPM to save some time.

Hopefully this allows you to visualize how OP-II works, and make the change to a new type of polish less problematic. Tips to using SMAT polishes are buried all over the internet, but to be honest, I've yet to see any on YouTube. You've got to read through threads just like this one to find them... 

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Thank you very much. Just waiting :buffer:


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

:thumb:Received it yesterday.


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Do I need use spritz of water when refining or does it ruin paint?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Do I need use spritz of water when refining or does it ruin paint?


No, this does not work with OP-II. Water spritzing works great with the Meguiar's SMAT compounds to boost their cut, and can also be used with Fixer to increase its run-time, but with OP-II it is a counter-productive measure. The polish has epic lubrication, and is fully water soluble; the work time does not need extended, and attempts to dilute the product with water spritzing simply result in a soupy mess. You'll get much better finishing results if you let OP-II's lubricants do their job, and buffer the abrasives when no pressure is applied to the pad.

Hopefully this helps...:thumb:

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

It helps... thanks:thumb:


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

I have try OP Polish 2 couple times now. Much nicer to use than Fixer.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

Yes, Optimum do make some very nice polishes


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

How OP Polish 2 and OP Compound 2 are different because manufacturer says that both can manage to handle 1200 grit sanding marks?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> How OP Polish 2 and OP Compound 2 are different because manufacturer says that both can manage to handle 1200 grit sanding marks?


Actually, OP-II can handle P1500 grade sanding scratches on a wool pad (P2000 on a foam cutting pad). OC-II on the other hand can remove P1200 grade sanding scratches, so it does have a bit more cut to it. That said, OP-II is so versatile that you aren't the first to have questioned the merit of the other polishes in the line. Optimum Finish Polish II and Optimum Compound II cope with the 10% at the top and bottom of the cut spectrum that Optimum Polish II doesn't handle as well, and for this they are okay.

Hopefully this answers your questioned, and I'm glad to hear that you've been enjoying OP-II! I am just in the middle of removing some wetsanding scratches, using OP-II on a microfiber cutting pad, and every time I pick up this polish I am reminded of just how lovely it is to use. It cuts like Meguiar's D300, but finishes out _almost_ (not quite) like M205. Great stuff... :buffer:

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Straight quote to Elitecarcare site: "Directions for use:

When using a wool buffing pad, the compound will remove 1200 sand scratches and lighter at 1000-1400 RPM."


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Straight quote to Elitecarcare site: "Directions for use:
> 
> When using a wool buffing pad, the compound will remove 1200 sand scratches and lighter at 1000-1400 RPM."


I've seen that too, and I'm afraid that it is a typographical error. They do happen on occasion, no matter how careful the content writer is... Those are actually the instructions for Compound II. 

Optimum's website: http://www.optimumcarcare.com/opolish.php?li=3

Steampunk


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Ok. Good to know. Have you tried Carpro Hybrid pads together with OP?


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

sm81 said:


> Ok. Good to know. Have you tried Carpro Hybrid pads together with OP?


I've tried the CarPro Cool Wool (Slightly more aggressive version), and it works very well; one of my favorite pads. It's more aggressive than microfiber, but also does not finish out quite as well. If you want to get every single last bit of cut out of OP-II on a DA, this is the pad to use it with. They're great for production type detailing, because they are very durable, and you can clean them and get them back in service in under an hour. Microfiber and foam takes 24-hours or more to dry before you can use them again.

That said, I still find myself reaching for microfiber pads (Flexipads at the moment) more often with OP-II, as I can practically 1-step with this combo; even on incredibly soft paint. They still cut very well, and finish out sublimely with this polish. The Cool Wool's leave an amazingly clean finish for a wool pad, but with OP-II, they require just a little bit more effort to refine before applying your LSP. For removing deep defects on rock-hard paint, though; it's Cool Wool every time. :thumb:

Hopefully this helps...

Steampunk


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