# painting without a booth. Dirt in paint .



## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

So - today I painted a bonnet for a mate. Second one I've done lately and had the same issue, Bast coat & clear went on perfect however got a ton of sh#t in the paint. I keep my garage very clean I have 2 double garage doors open and a rear door open for air flow. I also wet the floor and drive 30 Mins before painting .

I understand that without a booth I'm always going to get crap but I think I could get less than I do. How does everyone else do it, and do you always paint the Panels vertical to get less crap In it? (Mine was flat to get better flow out) It's very annoying when the job comes out so perfect but is ruined by sh#t! The pic I've added shows the kind of crap in the paint, there must be 100 nibs at least , I'm confident I can flat them out its just a right pain


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## Sicskate (Oct 3, 2012)

Do you have a water trap on your line?


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Yeah I have a sip one on the tank , I also empty the tank after each use and fill it before i wet the floor . It seems to be there pretty soon after I put the clear on this was around 5 mins after putting clear on, it didn't get much worse would be great if it was something simple like moisture causing the issue .,









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## m4rkymark (Aug 17, 2014)

I've always painted stuff vertically and never had an issue getting crap in paint. I would think lying it flat will cause issues because if you are leaning over it to paint it stuff will Be falling from your arm all the time.


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Think I've sussed it, solvent popping ????

Because the panels flat I've been smashing the clear on !
Here's a close up the entire panel is like this


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

you get bits in a spray booth so not a chance in hell with a normal garage and the doors up

things that may help - line the walls /ceiling with plastic dust sheets and water the floor to keep dust down , wear a paper overall to keep lint off your clothes getting on the paint

you could also if possible get all the first coats on with the panel vertical then lay it down for the final coat...paint shops have a hinged stand for this purpose

but after saying all that , you wont ever do a bonnet in a garage and get no specs in it


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## Franzpan (Mar 2, 2009)

I sprayed my front bumper last year in my garage and was lucky enough not to get any crap in it. It really **** me by surprise as I was expecting a few bits of trash.

I fully hoovered the garage the day before then wet the floor completely. I also wore a new pair of painting coveralls to keep any fluff and stuff from coming off my clothes.

On my first attempt I was plagued by flies in the paint. Had to redo it after this, I chopped up a couple of onions and threw them around the floor under my work and on the second attempt I had no flies whatsoever.

Still got a couple of runs mind... 

Ps. Why does the swear filter star out the word t00k?


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

haha result with the onions....i had the same with small flies in white paint

decided to get up at like 4am and paint then as they werent around


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Cheers gents, defo think a panel stand is on the cards and some wall lining, my ceiling has rafts so might also put plasterboard up. as this defo won't be helping . 

I do think the main issue I've had has been solvent pop though. One a plus side, painting without a booth turns you into an expert flat/ polisher 

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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

doesnt look like solvent pop to me...looks like dirt specs with a puddled up build up around them


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

Solvent pop is caused by overheating the lacquer during baking and looks like millions of tiny bubbles - which your photos aren't showing.
If it's not silicon contamination (which I don't think it is as it doesn't look like fish eyes) then it could be moisture from your comp/air line, but if you didn't have any problems with primer or paint then that can start to be ruled out. 
So then it must be dust/dirt.


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

steveo3002 said:


> doesnt look like solvent pop to me...looks like dirt specs with a puddled up build up around them


They seem to flat out OK, picking up a mini da with interface pad later, hopefully make short work of them, either than or it will kill it lol .

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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

squiggs said:


> Solvent pop is caused by overheating the lacquer during baking and looks like millions of tiny bubbles - which your photos aren't showing.
> If it's not silicon contamination (which I don't think it is as it doesn't look like fish eyes) then it could be moisture from your comp/air line, but if you didn't have any problems with primer or paint then that can start to be ruled out.
> So then it must be dust/dirt.


Thanks for that, definitely need to spend time dust proofing then , is my plan to denib with a da and interface pad with 1500 then 2000 then 3000 OK?

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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

id flat them with a small block first then the da...


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## JCoxy (Dec 21, 2011)

Oh yeah you'll always get crap in paint, just have to nib where they are. There's many methods for nibbing my personal choise atm is use half of a rubber (eraser) with some 1200 wet in circuler motions, then use 2000 Abralon pad by DA or hand after to remove 1200 scratches, compound maybe polish done


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

JCoxy said:


> Oh yeah you'll always get crap in paint, just have to nib where they are. There's many methods for nibbing my personal choise atm is use half of a rubber (eraser) with some 1200 wet in circuler motions, then use 2000 Abralon pad by DA or hand after to remove 1200 scratches, compound maybe polish done


Just flatted the nibs out by knocking the tops off with 1200 then da wet with 1500, followed by 2000 amazed at the speed of doing it with a da and interface pad. Polished with g3 premium using both compoud heads . Done.... still a couple of blemishes bit 90% gone.

Only been painting for a few months , I'm shocked at what can be flatted out.

Before and after 

















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## Harry_p (Mar 18, 2015)

Looks excellent.

I'm still having to paint outside, not tried anything as big as a bonnet yet.

Painted a bootlid at the weekend and have never had so many bugs try and commit suicide in some paint, the previous weekend I did a spoiler and didn't get a single one.

Annoyingly they don't die straight away, they get stuck, and wiggle around disturbing the paint until the solvents kill them so even if removed you see a ghost spot in the basecoat.


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Harry_p said:


> Looks excellent.
> 
> I'm still having to paint outside, not tried anything as big as a bonnet yet.
> 
> ...


Thank you, I would maybe keep some tweezers handy. Nothing worse than flies landing in your paint . The mini da I bought with an interface pad is awesome, can't believe how much time it saved me flatting . Perfect for us non boothers. Lol

Technically the bonnet was quite easy as it was flat . I would imagine something like a large rear quarter to be alot harder

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## Franzpan (Mar 2, 2009)

That looks great now after flatting back.

Is your air completely dry? I also had issues with water in the airline as the air wasn't cool enough before the filter. I remedied this by coiling a load of air line in a bucket of cold water before it entered the filter. This left it bone dry.


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

I think it is, I empty the tank after use and fill it before wetting the floor . I've also just put a filter on my guns. The SIP filter is quite good on my tank. What symptoms did you have that made you realise you had water in the line ?

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## JCoxy (Dec 21, 2011)

It's very good how much you can flat out after an awful paint job. The only issue is loosing orange peel if you have to match it to an adjacent panel, but providing you only focus on the nibs you can maintain it


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## JCoxy (Dec 21, 2011)

Little job I did last weekend in my garage, I work in a bodyshop during the week, It always looks perfect on camera but I had some nibs. All came out fine

Wing was slightly too peely, I didn't have to flat too much as BMW has bad peel.


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Is that bumper polished ?.it's amazing how severe factory orange peel is. Did you local the bumper ?

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## JCoxy (Dec 21, 2011)

No above is repair I've done same bumper, ideally it needed a new one, I only painted half of it, she was selling it soon anyway


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

JCoxy said:


> No above is repair I've done same bumper, ideally it needed a new one, I only painted half of it, she was selling it soon anyway


How did you blend the clear , did you use fade out thinners ?

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## JCoxy (Dec 21, 2011)

Yep 1000 abralon / grey scotch halfway, clear bit before the end of the scotch, fade out thinner in aerosol


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Had the lad who I did the bonnet for on the phone earlier , absolutely over the moon with it , doubt he would have been so enthusiastic if he'd seen it before flatting 
Got some some more work from him in for next week, my "hobby" is taking off ! 

Quick question, anyone tried smart repair / small area clear coat fade out with a normal spray gun?. Got a repair to do in the very top corner of a door about the size of a 10 pence piece . Seems a shame to clear the entire door !

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## Danl94 (Mar 10, 2016)

Wetting the floor is not a good idea as when the water evaporates you're going to get lots of moisture on the panel... best solution is to hoover the floor and put down dirt trap sheeting  or fresh floor paint every now and then. More expensive I know but less risk


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

I Hoover the floor the night before any work. My floor is a full epoxy floor. I've tried not wetting it and got more dust in than normal. I think the dust is coming from the extension half of my ceiling. It's a haven for dust


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## JCoxy (Dec 21, 2011)

I've never had problems wetting the floor, If anything the overspray hits it and keeps it down too, but everyone has experiences


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

JCoxy said:


> I've never had problems wetting the floor, If anything the overspray hits it and keeps it down too, but everyone has experiences


Good point about the overspray. Also I find it helps keep my floor clean. It stops the paint sticking to my floor.

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## Danl94 (Mar 10, 2016)

As long as the car is clean and the room your spraying in has been cleaned an hour or so before spraying you should get hardly any **** in the paintwork. Also try to avoid pointing your gun to the floor as much as possible


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## SamD (Oct 24, 2015)

theshoe202 said:


> Had the lad who I did the bonnet for on the phone earlier , absolutely over the moon with it , doubt he would have been so enthusiastic if he'd seen it before flatting
> Got some some more work from him in for next week, my "hobby" is taking off !
> 
> Quick question, anyone tried smart repair / small area clear coat fade out with a normal spray gun?. Got a repair to do in the very top corner of a door about the size of a 10 pence piece . Seems a shame to clear the entire door !
> ...


I have done this in centre of doors, edges and even bonnets.
It depends on the colour of the panel I'm doing, I normally apply base go abit bigger with clear and bigger again with the fade out.
Give the door a full 3000 followed by a polish.


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

SamD said:


> I have done this in centre of doors, edges and even bonnets.
> It depends on the colour of the panel I'm doing, I normally apply base go abit bigger with clear and bigger again with the fade out.
> Give the door a full 3000 followed by a polish.


Cheers for the reply mate roughly What kind of distance from the repair do you go with each step and are you just putting the fade out over the edge of the clear ,?

Tried a spot repair on an old panel the other day, was very happy with the clear coat only issue I had was fading out the base coat , the soft edge I put down must have been either to close to the repair or I'd taken it to far so there was a faint line when all was done . Think I was trying to keep the repair area to small. All a learning curve though 























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## SamD (Oct 24, 2015)

I won't attempt a spot repair on any metallic coloured panel you will most likely just end up with a Halo.

I will try to explain

If I apply clear I will apply it at least 25% further out over my base coat and again with my fade out a further 25% I apply this over my clear and beyond.
You really have to give it a decent time to dry it can go terribly wrong if you're to aggressive with sanding and polishing.

<-(Base)->
<--(Clear)-->
<---(Blend)--->


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## theshoe202 (Mar 3, 2016)

Thanks for that. Are you blending after a normal clear flash off tme ?

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## SamD (Oct 24, 2015)

As soon as I've applied my last coat of clear I apply my fade out


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