# Fallout Removers Test Panel



## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

*Ok People i have intended doing this for well over a year.

What i wanted to do was take a car bonnet a nice large one such as here with the Discovery bonnet nice large and pretty flat.

Then test fallout removers on it i did this about 8 months ago and decided since there were stone chips and no knowledge of how wide spread any contamination was i did not bother posting up.

I decided it needed a fresh slate approach so it sat for a few months before i finally got round to rubbing down laying down about 5 or 6 primer rattle cans over it.

Then about 6 or 7 white rattle cans and about the same in lacquer rattle cans.

Left in the garage for a few months to cure, all covered up with a breathable cover.

Now take out give a bit of a rinse then rub down with some 180 grit and some 2000 grit not going to all the grades and machining its only a test panel and in fact i could have saved loads of time painting it by just doing with radiator paint etc rolled on would have saved loads of time as the whites just to show up the reaction better.

But its still as car paint this way anyway.

So well rinsed...

Then tested with fallout remover with no reaction even 5 minutes later...










Well rinsed then a good going over with verso apc rinsed rubbed over well rinsed some more...

Now to Contaminate the panel, so having kept some iron bars for a good while and out in the elements for years...



















The rods are laid out reaching beyond the bonnet and the angle grinder is run from one end to the other each time throwing beyond the end of the panel to hopefully give a full and even spread. There is a slight step in the very middle where the two bars touch and this is where there is the odd break in the sparks as it passes over the lip.

Clipped in place and armed with the angle grinder lets get busy...






So contaminated...










the surface blacking will be rinsed off after about 5 or 10 minutes.

The Rods after grinding...










Half Rinsed...










Once fully rinsed off a very small corner section was test sprayed with fallout remover to ensure it is indeed contaminated.










Rinsed off again and left out in the elements.

Now folks what do you say..? Do i leave it out in the rain etc for a month or put it away in the garage for a month?

I had every intention of leaving out to let the iron bond and react with the weather it will be exposed to anymore fallout and i would hope and expect the fallout to be uniform but if folk think it should be put away to help ensure its more controlled im open to that.

What i also want to ask is should i lay it flat and contaminate again rather than having it vertical this time?

Do you all think i should contaminate it some more or do you think i did enough?
*


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## downhuman (Mar 25, 2007)

Leave it in the rain for some additional rustiness


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## mike41 (Apr 5, 2011)

Hi James,
The lengths you go to testing products for this forum deserve a thanks first of all. Personally, as I don't have a garage, I'd like to see the panel left out to the elements, and I think it's had more than enough contamination from your angle grinder :lol: ........ will you be asking for predictions as to what product performs the best, like the snowfoam test?

Mike


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

I'm sure it's more now than a car would get anyway James but I'd leave it out in the rain to really let a layer of crud get on it. 

Which ones are you planning on testing btw or is that down to how many companies send you samples?


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## nick.s (Dec 21, 2009)

To speed up the reaction, mix some household bleach and white vinegar (OUTSIDE), spray it on OUTSIDE and behold the rust setting in nice and quick 

Gained this tip for creating iron acetate (for wood dying purposes) which involves steel wool and vinegar (with bleach as an accelerant)


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

nick.s said:


> To speed up the reaction, mix some household bleach and white vinegar (OUTSIDE), spray it on OUTSIDE and behold the rust setting in nice and quick
> 
> Gained this tip for creating iron acetate (for wood dying purposes) which involves steel wool and vinegar (with bleach as an accelerant)


Very interesting think i need to look into this...:thumb:


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## Crash (Apr 14, 2009)

Outside near to a railway line if possible would give you a challenging test panel to start with! We have an industrial (quarry) railway line next to my work and the fallout is shocking on my car every time i clean it!


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Crash said:


> Outside near to a railway line if possible would give you a challenging test panel to start with! We have an industrial (quarry) railway line next to my work and the fallout is shocking on my car every time i clean it!


Yeah that will do it every time a train passes over the lines it shaves a bit off never mind brakes applied.


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Think i will simply leave out to be weathered rather than the accelerator concoction suggested by nick.s.

However i may well have a bash at that another time...:thumb:


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## nick.s (Dec 21, 2009)

It's quite mesmerising to watch. I set a jar aside with the wire wool and the bleach/vinegar solution in it and you could see it corroding


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Cool...:lol:


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## GLN (Mar 26, 2011)

Interesting to see a few manufactures not willing to taking part they obviously must not think the products they make are that good


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

GLN said:


> Interesting to see a few manufactures not willing to taking part they obviously must not think the products they make are that good


The test is totally voluntary they may not have spotted the thread or as wax tec feel there are enough tests out there and dont wish to send out a freebie when they feel enough reviews out there.

What does get supplied will be compared to all the others that come in.

Im offering the test out to give manufacturers the chance to supply there latest product for comparison some may be the same recipe of old but wish to be as fair as possible not comparing something that could well be an old recipe and so avoiding any unintended testing of an old recipe that may well be greatly improved.

We will see either way.


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## DJ X-Ray (Sep 2, 2012)

Iron X will come out on top Anyway


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

DJ X-Ray said:


> Iron X will come out on top Anyway


It will. None of the manufacturers can moan though if it's completely fair. Imo there's nothing that matches Iron x yet.

Interesting to see how the pre release ones fair though


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## piston_warrior (Jul 25, 2012)

rayner said:


> It will. None of the manufacturers can moan though if it's completely fair. Imo there's nothing that matches Iron x yet.
> 
> Interesting to see how the pre release ones fair though


Keep your eyes on Bilt Hamber Korrosol


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

matthewt23 said:


> Keep your eyes on Bilt Hamber Korrosol


Tried the 2 together


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## ColinEhm1 (Sep 5, 2013)

Have you asked angel wax mate? I'm sure John would give you a sample to test, if not then let me know and ill send you one mate


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

If there something from ArtDeshine I would like see it also. And Wolf's Degon gel V3


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## redit5 (Dec 16, 2013)

This'll be very interesting... thank you for taking the time to do it! I use Bilt Hamber Korrosol so it'll be good to see how it pans out compared to others...


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

tbo Honest after speaking to a couple of detailers I expected the Wax Tec to be closest to iron x with surprise with the BH and you can never rule out Auto Smart may be wild card but may pack more punch that can be seen:thumb:, I have tried 3 know and am willing to always try another and wax tec was on my list as was rated highly be a trusted member I know.
Also I forgot I think another that might shock is Rollo's:thumb:


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

rayner said:


> Tried the 2 together


There's been several upgrades to Korrosol... James could you email me your address I'll send the current version - I'm keen to see this :thumb:


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> There's been several upgrades to Korrosol... James could you email me your address I'll send the current version - I'm keen to see this :thumb:


Fair enough and as I said in another post it is the closest I've seen to Iron x but not quite good enough to knock Iron x off my shelf.

It was summer 2013 I think that I tried it against Iron x if that makes any difference?

Interesting to see the latest formula :thumb:


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## Bilt-Hamber Lab (Apr 11, 2008)

rayner said:


> Fair enough and as I said in another post it is the closest I've seen to Iron x but not quite good enough to knock Iron x off my shelf.
> 
> It was summer 2013 I think that I tried it against Iron x if that makes any difference?
> 
> Interesting to see the latest formula :thumb:


Quicker now... and still 12.95 for a litre


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

ColinEhm1 said:


> Have you asked angel wax mate? I'm sure John would give you a sample to test, if not then let me know and ill send you one mate


I did last night and had a reply asking for address in less than 10 minutes....:lol:



Bilt-Hamber Lab said:


> There's been several upgrades to Korrosol... James could you email me your address I'll send the current version - I'm keen to see this :thumb:


Thanks for that greatly appreciated and She-Mail sent....:lol:


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## Jonny_R (Oct 23, 2012)

Cant wait to see the outcomes of this

Currently use Korrosol and rate it very highly


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## Forsaken (Sep 2, 2012)

Hope Autosmart wins,I've got a gallon!


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## w138pbo (Jul 10, 2013)

cant wait to see the results have an alloy that has bad contamination tried to 3 products to remove it with no luck.

can see what one works the best and buy that save me buying a few to find one that works.


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## great gonzo (Nov 4, 2010)

Will it be a test of performance only, or is the price per ml going have a factor?
Gonz.


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## Ronnie (Nov 15, 2006)

James, I have been thinking and am going to send out a sample from the first run of the production batch. the raw materials will all be here by tomorrow and will have it produced over the weekend once its cooled and is ready I will pour out some samples and post them off to you if your happy to wait a few days. This means it is a production product not a prototype meaning it is what people will be buying literally the next day if they wanted.


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## jenks (Apr 20, 2009)

Looking forward to the outcome of this. I too need some fallout remover so this may decide what I buy.

Are you going to ensure you use the same amount of each product, ie use a standard spray head


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## spalding89 (May 9, 2011)

What about Autobrite Purple Rain 2.0?

Works in seconds!

I have used IronX too but prefer the cost and power of Purple Rain 2.0


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## Jesse74 (Jul 19, 2008)

Hi James and the rest of you !

So I figured I would reply to James' email here on the forum, as I don't want there to be any misunderstandings ! So for this test we at Wolf's don't wish to participate for a few reasons, and please don't misinterpret our reasons for disrespect or belittlement ! James I repsect you as a detailer and as a long-time member of the forum! 

So first of all this sort of test has been done hundreds of times and they're posted all over the internet. Trust me, we have tested most of them, too ! Perhaps on different surfaces, under different conditions, etc. but more or less all the same test. Iron X and Deironizer have been around for quite a long time now and since those two, there have been many other companies who have made similar products and they are ALL good! It's one of those things like "either it does or it doesn't" dissolve iron and all these types of products do just that; they dissolve iron. Let me add, I take my hat off to the Japanese guys who created the original "Iron Cut" as they truly created a game-changer with this and most certainly made their mark in the detailing industry!!! 

Having said that, all the tests in the past (and this test also will) have bolied down to a matter of opinion basically. First of all there is simply no way to measure how much iron content is on the surface and how much of that content was dissolved. With this test, there will be no way to regulate how much iron goes on the surface either. Even on a wheel if you test them side by side there is no way to measure it, because the contamination is just too random. These surfaces are sort of like snowflakes: No two are the same 

No matter how much "X" product bleeds or how fast "Y" product reacts, there is one thing that we must all keep in mind: There's not one product out there that will tackle a very nasty wheel or car full of iron contaminants in the first round... not one. We have tested "X" and "Y" one after the other numerous times and in fact I even played around with it a bit today . With that in mind, even IF "X" was better than "Y", "X" would be overkill for "not so bad" conditions, no? 

Perhaps this particular test doesn't excite us, but if one were to make the test a bit more "scientific" we would be most certainly interested . Here is our suggestion: Take the different iron removers to an independent lab. Have the chemist measure out "X" amount of each product in contaminant-free beakers. Add "Y" grams, a small amount, of iron particles shaven from the same piece of iron, to each beaker. Let each cleaner work for 10-15 minutes. After that, strain the iron particles and measure the weight of each once more. Now THIS kind of test will be the real test of which one is the "best", but we already know what the results will be . These products are like batteries... They only run for so long. But as I said, we will be more than happy to participate in a test like I have mentioned, but we will sit this round out .

Jesse


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Ronnie said:


> James, I have been thinking and am going to send out a sample from the first run of the production batch. the raw materials will all be here by tomorrow and will have it produced over the weekend once its cooled and is ready I will pour out some samples and post them off to you if your happy to wait a few days. This means it is a production product not a prototype meaning it is what people will be buying literally the next day if they wanted.


Thanks Rollo,

That will literally be hot of the production line and yes indeed be good to have the finished product to test...:thumb:

To Wolf Chemicals, Jesse...

Thank you for the reply and your reasoning behind the non participation very constructive and point well made.
As i say in my test baring a true lab test this is the best i can do.

Ensuring the panel was painted and lacquered and cured over several months under a breathable cover indoors, then tested to see if free of contamination.
Once shown to be free of contamination i laid out a set of iron bars to extend beyond the actual panel, this to ensure the angle grinder would be throwing out iron particles beyond the end of the panel.

I travelled from one side to the other each time the full length also ensuring the particles fell over the whole surface this needing an angle adjustment each pass to throw particles over a lower section that was not getting as much from the previous pass.

By the nature of chaos random particles are just that and there may be a few more particles in one small are than another randomized all over the panel, however the multiple passes were all done to try and achieve an as even coverage as possible.

Although from the video it may seam some areas got far more than others i can assure everyone that it was all very even to the human eye that was viewing the whole panel section by section rather than the fixed point of the camera taking the video.

Even watching the video my self it seams the right hand side got more than the rest of the panel but this is only because it is closest to the camera so this section is constantly in shot.

I do not have a go pro to wear to show a better real eye view nor the means to mount the camera overhead to avoid myself getting in shot and again would still give a localised view as i did with the camera to the side.

We are also faced with the possible situation of localised fallout with the panel left in the open for a month and is teh reason i asked members should i put it away before testing or leave it out for moisture to react with the iron.

The Consensus was leave it out to rust....:lol:

Whatever may fall from the heavens is negligible as the panel is, has and will remain in the are and position its laid out in Horizontally before testing.

This is as controlled as i can make it other than as you say taking it into a lab.

Despite this not being a lab test it is as controlled and fair i can make it and many many many home user tests have been performed on there everyday vehicle that can have varied areas of contamination simply from what side of the road it was on, which direction it was facing. Was it near railway lines.
Was it driven through a heavy industrial or chemical area did one wheel drive through a contaminated puddle and non of the others did or both wheels on one side and not the other side.

This test is as controlled as i can make it, but do concur the lad test and measured iron particles and weight before and after is about as acid tested as you can get....:lol:

If i was a chemist i would do it alas im just a dogs Body....:lol:

Your reason for non participation is very measured concise and eloquently put, and perfectly understandable.



great gonzo said:


> Will it be a test of performance only, or is the price per ml going have a factor?
> Gonz.


The cost etc is for the user to decide.

Im testing for performance and then folks cab decide what fits there need and budget.



jenks said:


> Are you going to ensure you use the same amount of each product, ie use a standard spray head


Was thinking about this from the offset and i cannot use a sprayer even with card held to each strip to much risk of drift onto neighbouring panels test strip.

Looking to measure out the liquid and paint on.

However i will do a test of consistency and flow with a sprayer on each to see how they flow for a user that would simply spray on there panels rather than doing a comparison test as here.


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## Rascal_69 (Sep 20, 2009)

That's a good few big names in it. 

Car chem?


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

Perhaps this particular test doesn't excite us, but if one were to make the test a bit more "scientific" we would be most certainly interested . Here is our suggestion: Take the different iron removers to an independent lab. Have the chemist measure out "X" amount of each product in contaminant-free beakers. Add "Y" grams, a small amount, of iron particles shaven from the same piece of iron, to each beaker. Let each cleaner work for 10-15 minutes. After that, strain the iron particles and measure the weight of each once more. Now THIS kind of test will be the real test of which one is the "best", but we already know what the results will be . These products are like batteries... They only run for so long. But as I said, we will be more than happy to participate in a test like I have mentioned, but we will sit this round out . ( Quoted By Jesse)


But is the real test not the one that the consumer feels best meets there needs or thinks it does not the lab? I have had a good few wolfs products and I did not buy it off the back of a lab report as that is not the real world of every day use but out on a cold drive way at a house you want to get the job done within a certain time as time is money and if your a hobbest you want to try them all to decide the best one for you, I have tried 3 and had very different results, but im always open for a new product or a different version than can do 95% but a lot cheaper , is that not the real world or a'm I wrong again as have been a lot lately


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Rascal_69 said:


> That's a good few big names in it.
> 
> Car chem?


I mentioned this and posted a link in an e-mail to the managing director who was passing on appreciation of there bespoke shampoo test i did, however they did not say anything about this test.


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## Ronnie (Nov 15, 2006)

I have to admit I know where Jesse is coming from as I know the strength of active ingredient varies greatly between products I know our concentrate needs to be diluted upto 5:1 to compare with some of the weaker formulations out there, also seeing as many are also acid based it has the added risk when users do not neutralise wash after (no water is not sufficent) but thats is not what its about. I also agree personal preference is also a big thing. I know when we went to our concentrated formulation we had a lot of backlash from existing customers hance why we now are offering both. For us this will be a good yard stick as to where next to take our development, the fact we are the only concentrate on the market also is a good tester as we will literally be running at 50% strength compared to all teh others that have to be at full strength so for us this is an important test also the fact that used neat we know it will remove serious metal contamination but also offer superior value and we hope this demonstrates this, Would also be happy to submit to an independant test in a lab if anyone ever brings that about its difficult to do for a free test but would make for some interesting reading.


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## Goodfella36 (Jul 21, 2009)

Wolf's Chemicals said:


> Hi James and the rest of you !
> 
> So I figured I would reply to James' email here on the forum, as I don't want there to be any misunderstandings ! So for this test we at Wolf's don't wish to participate for a few reasons, and please don't misinterpret our reasons for disrespect or belittlement ! James I repsect you as a detailer and as a long-time member of the forum!
> 
> ...


I can do that kind of test New glass beakers course Iron fillings and strainer and set of accurate scales might not be quite to lab standards but it would show what the are each capable under these conditions

The only argument I can see is how long do you leave them in the beaker as looking at many videos of all these products on the net the average homes user leave it on there wheels etc between 3 and 5 mins

so a fair time would have to be given to all.


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Goodfella36 said:


> I can do that kind of test New glass beakers course Iron fillings and strainer and set of accurate scales might not be quite to lab standards but it would show what the are each capable under these conditions
> 
> The only argument I can see is how long do you leave them in the beaker as looking at many videos of all these products on the net the average homes user leave it on there wheels etc between 3 and 5 mins
> 
> so a fair time would have to be given to all.


The same came to my mind the beakers the same measured shavings and liquid set time for each and strain and weigh.

Its the point about lab sterility of the glass to ensure its only the iron particulate that is worked on.

But that was my own feelings a lot of us could do this its just that lab aspect of sterility.

This would in a lab be able to give that defacto standard of yes this dissolves more than that.

However we dont live in Labs we live in the real world what we use this stuff on are real world environment contamination no lab controls if your lucky and wish you can use what you wish in your garage if you have the ventilation and drainage.

However the majority will be using on there own vehicle in there own time outside in varied environments.

I think your looking at a maximum of 3 minutes in the real world if your lucky, major factor to the actual products used in the real world is that real world environment.

If its overcast or simply cool you have like snow foams an open window for dwell time unless the actual product evaporates fast dries fast you are not so bothered about dwell time needed.

However if its warm or warmish day your lucky to get 2 minutes before your fearing man i need to get this off before it dries out and marks the paint etc.

I think the best elements is first and foremost, speed of reaction and hopefully in return dissolving of fallout.

Directly to this the most fallout removed as possible to limit time and product used if a second hit is needed.

Linked to this is its ability to not dry out too fast.


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## Suba (Feb 2, 2013)

With these tests there will always be an element of subjectivity and a little real-world unpredictability.

Perhaps the solution is to create a few categories for performance (e.g. Works really well, works, struggles) defining them out the outset, and then simply placing the product under test into one of them. This avoids a ranking as found in other tests so there is no #1 product, or 'just missed the medals' product. This would help remove some of the subjectivity and environmental variances.

Maybe worth a thought?

[[email protected]: that is one of the best argued excuses I have seen in a long time ;-) ]


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

I dare say it will be a very long post on performance reaction speed yadda yadda.

As much info on my experience to help as many others decide which would fit them best or even which products for varied situations.

Im thinking after the combined test, contaminating the panel again and leaving for a week and then testing just one product each week on the whole panel if there is enough liquid.

The Weekly Fallout Review....:lol:

That will take a couple of months for sure...:lol:


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

*Update 03/02/2014*​
*Please Remember this is a totally voluntary Participation.

Companies asked if they wish to participate, yes or No and also if the product has arrived yet.*[/SIZE][/B]

*CarPro........ Yes.... Arrived
Autosmart... Yes......... Arrived
Angel Wax... Yes......... Arrived
Bilt Hamber.. Yes......... Arrived
Wolf's Chem.... No... ................
Wax Tec....... No... .................
CarChem..... Taken as No as no response was forthcoming.
AutoBrite...... Yes........ Arrived
O.C.D........... Yes........ Awaiting
Autofinesse... No... They already have there dedicated test panel.*


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

*Hi Folks i have been updating this as products have arrived over the week.

This more of a refresher and reminder to the Manufacturers.

AutoBrites turned up.

Angel wax arrived.

Autofinesse are not participating as they already have there dedicated test team and section of the forum.

Autosmart i have Pm'd Sue a couple of times this week and i know she is always busy but no reply yet as how to sort out getting it to me.

CarChem still not responded to e-mails so i do not imagine anything turning up on that front.

Still awaiting the bilt hamber as they said they will ship the latest batch so i will send them a reminder.

O.C.D. still awaiting but they were actually going to be making the retail version this week to ship out.*


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

Bilt Hamber Should be Here next week...:thumb:

Autosmart next week also...:thumb:

There certainly are plenty of little rusting spots on the white bonnet....:lol:


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## salsa-king (Dec 17, 2013)

not wanting to sound a total muppet, but where do these iron bits come from on your car that needs a special remover?

also, if you clay your car, DA polish it etc.. how much 'iron' would be on your paint work?


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## Kimo (Jun 7, 2013)

Car chem, auto finesse and wax tec are 3 of the better ones so weird how they don't want to take part


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## Rayner (Aug 16, 2012)

salsa-king said:


> not wanting to sound a total muppet, but where do these iron bits come from on your car that needs a special remover?
> 
> also, if you clay your car, DA polish it etc.. how much 'iron' would be on your paint work?


Brake dust, Railway dust, Industrial works etc.

Clay will only remove 'above surface' contamination so everything that is ON the paint. Clay will not remove the lower half of the particle of iron that is IN your paint (below surface contamination), this is where fallout removers come into play :thumb:


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## budd (Jul 4, 2007)

Subscibed


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## salsa-king (Dec 17, 2013)

rayner said:


> Brake dust, Railway dust, Industrial works etc.
> 
> Clay will only remove 'above surface' contamination so everything that is ON the paint. Clay will not remove the lower half of the particle of iron that is IN your paint (below surface contamination), this is where fallout removers come into play :thumb:


ok, thanks,

but how many cars do you see streaked in rust cus they haven't used a fallout remover? My cars have never had rust stops all over them. Just saying.

But would lik eto use some on my white car just to see what's on it. I might try the AngelWax stuff as I like their products.


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## Ronnie (Nov 15, 2006)

Well we have literally just manufactured our first bath of new thick origional and runny concentrated better smelling and improved versions. They are cooling down and will be bottled and posted in the morning.. will be intresting to hear the results.


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## piston_warrior (Jul 25, 2012)

salsa-king said:


> ok, thanks,
> 
> but how many cars do you see streaked in rust cus they haven't used a fallout remover? My cars have never had rust stops all over them. Just saying.
> 
> But would lik eto use some on my white car just to see what's on it. I might try the AngelWax stuff as I like their products.


You're missing the point. You don't necessarily do it for aesthetic reasons because you can see rusting iron particles on the paintwork you remove the particles because when you machine polish they can get caught up in the pad and inflict their own marring and that causes more work for yourself.

Also any time you touch the paint you have a chance of dislodging an iron particle and cause marring so it's best to fully decontaminate twice a year if you're OCD about your car's paint.


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## salsa-king (Dec 17, 2013)

Oh, I see the point now, sorry for sounding stupid lol


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## nick.s (Dec 21, 2009)

matthewt23 said:


> You're missing the point. You don't necessarily do it for aesthetic reasons because you can see rusting iron particles on the paintwork you remove the particles because when you machine polish they can get caught up in the pad and inflict their own marring and that causes more work for yourself.
> 
> Also any time you touch the paint you have a chance of dislodging an iron particle and cause marring so it's best to fully decontaminate twice a year if you're OCD about your car's paint.


The other thing is, more noticeable on white cars, you can get orange spots that look like tree sap or the like. It is the iron particles starting to rust. So there is a tiny aesthetic purpose behind it


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

salsa-king said:


> Oh, I see the point now, sorry for sounding stupid lol


Not stupid at all and the question will help others that think the same but too afraid to ask.

Was spare driver today so not a great deal to do so as we are now on van rotas, im sure its just to ensure the whole fleet gets done as i have a different van each week...:lol:

I did my current one for this week and one of the others.

Fleet is split between either silver or white and the one i did today is 7 years old and there are large areas of yellow/orange half way up the front doors the worst is the bottom quarter and secondary is the rear quarters right up top 3/4 of the height of the van transit high roof LWB. This is all from the brake discs of the vehicle itself.

Fallout comes in many forms simply driving through an industrial area will get contamination.

Even being miles away contamination can fall on your vehicle carried by wind or rain.

Your vehicle is exposed to brake fallout every time you take to the road even if your stationary other vehicles are throwing it up.

*Bilt Hamber Korrosol Arrived Today...:thumb:

Autosmart Is being posted...:thumb:*


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

*Ok Folks latest update... 03/02/2014.​*
*CarPro........ Yes.... Arrived
Autosmart... Yes......... Arrived
Angel Wax... Yes......... Arrived
Bilt Hamber.. Yes......... Arrived
Wolf Chem.... No... ................
Wax Tec....... No... .................
Car Chem..... Taken as No as no response was forthcoming.
AutoBrite...... Yes........ Arrived
O.C.D........... Yes........ Awaiting
Autofinesse... No.. They feel there dedicated test panel and section of the forum has this covered.*

*Just waiting on Rollo Now.*

*Also Matt should he wish to send anything but does not have to as its items he is looking to get in more for his detailing rather than retail as far as im aware... i do stand to be corrected however.*


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## Ronnie (Nov 15, 2006)

It was dispatched today had an aunt die whilst on holiday so last week sort of didn't happen about OCD-hq.


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

So Sorry to hear that Rollo... Feel For you... been there myself... not nice.


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## Ronnie (Nov 15, 2006)

Cheers James.


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

*Ok Folks latest update... 10/02/2014.​*
*CarPro........ Yes.... Arrived
Autosmart... Yes......... Arrived
Angel Wax... Yes......... Arrived
Bilt Hamber.. Yes......... Arrived
Wolf Chem.... No... ................
Wax Tec....... No... .................
Car Chem..... Taken as No as no response was forthcoming.
AutoBrite...... Yes........ Arrived
O.C.D........... Yes........ Arrived
Autofinesse... No.. They feel there dedicated test panel and section of the forum has this covered.

Matt's stuff... Yes Arrived.

Late Entry...

Obsession Wax... Yes Arrived.

Now need a suitable day with the time...:lol:

Thank you all to the Participants....:thumb:
*


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## salsa-king (Dec 17, 2013)

looking forward to this test.


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## tom-225 (Aug 30, 2009)

So its been over 5 weeks since everything arrived, did this actually happen...... Things like this are exactly what puts off manufacturers and why they stick to their tried and tested methods for testing and reviews.


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## J306TD (May 19, 2008)

Sounded like a good idea. A few bonnets from a scrapyard could have been interesting test samples


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

The bonnet test has been done, a luton box done and a heavy the back of a transit done and a folding camper.

Need to piece them all together now for the write up.

Life happens weather and family etc but it will come i promise.


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## salsa-king (Dec 17, 2013)

any update>>?


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## james_death (Aug 9, 2010)

salsa-king said:


> any update>>?


Yes 2nd of May posted up the tests...

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=337984


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