# Garage refurb / tidy up project.



## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

My garage is a 60's built garage and the previous owner has at some point laid a screed over the original garage floor. I dont think there's a DPM been put under the base and I seem to get damp issues and furry white mould on the floor.

My plan was to paint the floor with Wickes Damp Proof Membrane Liquid and then level the floor using a self leveling compound before finishing the floor with some interlocking floor tiles like the ones in the Group Buy on here.

*How level does the floor need to be when laying interlocking tiles?*

I really dont want to lay the tiles and then drive over them and have them lifting / seperating at the joins. I've tried to show the undulations in the floor in the pics below.

I have given the floor and the bottom of the walls a first coat of DPM. The ancient up and over door has been changed for an insulated roller door and the walls have had a couple of coats of masonary paint (will redo the bits that have been painted with the DPM)


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

get some cementone, cempolay extra strong 
i think it is designed for driving over, as for level the compoundwill go as level as you will get with sand cement so give it a good week to cure then put ur tiles down!


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## dombaird (Jan 10, 2013)

the only issue you will have is when driving into the garage
consider the floor although not level pretty flush with entry. DPM added 1 to 2 mm extra then you have a 5-7mm self levelling screed on top then the width of these tiles and there bonding adhesive. personally i would concrete the whole floor to a level finish and paint it with anti slip industrial paint
the more you add to the floor the larger the lip will be on first tiles so possibly break those, i know some may say wont be much but few 'mm' make a difference

not just throwing that out there, i am a time served QS and working as a building surveyor for FM but thats my 2p worth


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

dombaird said:


> the only issue you will have is when driving into the garage
> consider the floor although not level pretty flush with entry. DPM added 1 to 2 mm extra then you have a 5-7mm self levelling screed on top then the width of these tiles and there bonding adhesive. personally i would concrete the whole floor to a level finish and paint it with anti slip industrial paint
> the more you add to the floor the larger the lip will be on first tiles so possibly break those, i know some may say wont be much but few 'mm' make a difference
> 
> not just throwing that out there, i am a time served QS and working as a building surveyor for FM but thats my 2p worth


The tiles I'm planning on using are interlocking plastic tiles which are just laid onto the floor without any adhesive etc.


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

dombaird said:


> the only issue you will have is when driving into the garage
> consider the floor although not level pretty flush with entry. DPM added 1 to 2 mm extra then you have a 5-7mm self levelling screed on top then the width of these tiles and there bonding adhesive. personally i would concrete the whole floor to a level finish and paint it with anti slip industrial paint
> the more you add to the floor the larger the lip will be on first tiles so possibly break those, i know some may say wont be much but few 'mm' make a difference
> 
> not just throwing that out there, i am a time served QS and working as a building surveyor for FM but thats my 2p worth


even if u just screed over the top of whats there you will still need 40mm+ of screed over that so u will still have a lip wont you?

unless you mean brake the whole lot up and start again?


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

shudaman said:


> even if u just screed over the top of whats there you will still need 40mm+ of screed over that so u will still have a lip wont you?
> 
> unless you mean brake the whole lot up and start again?


Not sure if i'm misunderstanding your point or not but the undulations in the floor are not nearly as much as 40mm.

I reckon they're about 5mm - 7mm max.

The interlocking floor tiles also come with a small ramp which fits infront of the first row of tiles.


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

yer sorry, i wouldnt "screed" that thin as in sand and cement screed. i would want a decent bed of screed otherwise it wont last long


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

So do you think the self leveling compound would break up?

If so - even if its covered by the plastic tiles?


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

Imo the self leveling stuff i recomended is manly a latex type stuff so has a bit of flex in it 
I only think a screed would break up if u start going thiner than 30-40mm


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## Daffyplum (Mar 29, 2010)

I think a couple of people have misunderstood the OP. The tiles you are proposing to lay will more than likely sit fine on the floor as it is. But if it were me I would do as you are proposing and put a layer of hard wearing self levelling compound down to take the 'ripples' out of the current 'tamped' finish. This will allow the tiles to sit perfectly. 
I would seal the self levelling compound and use a garage floor paint before putting the tiles down if it were mine. 
The lip people are suggesting you have will effectively only be as thick as the tiles themselves so is not an issue. And to clarify for others you aren't laying ceramic/porcelain/quarry tiles, but interlocking rubber tiles. 
One last thing, when applying the DPM you could have cut it in neatly 2 bricks up at DPC thus creating a skirting effect, albeit straight on the brickwork. 
Update us with photos bud, and good luck.


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/cementone/Cempolay-Ultra/145

Its called ultra


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

Daffyplum said:


> I think a couple of people have misunderstood the OP. The tiles you are proposing to lay will more than likely sit fine on the floor as it is. But if it were me I would do as you are proposing and put a layer of hard wearing self levelling compound down to take the 'ripples' out of the current 'tamped' finish. This will allow the tiles to sit perfectly.
> I would seal the self levelling compound and use a garage floor paint before putting the tiles down if it were mine.
> The lip people are suggesting you have will effectively only be as thick as the tiles themselves so is not an issue. And to clarify for others you aren't laying ceramic/porcelain/quarry tiles, but interlocking rubber tiles.
> One last thing, when applying the DPM you could have cut it in neatly 2 bricks up at DPC thus creating a skirting effect, albeit straight on the brickwork.
> Update us with photos bud, and good luck.


I understood the OP but in dombraid post he said about concreteing over the top some how without causeing a lip?

With self level u will have to shutter the garage door end because buy the look of the pic the is a slight slope or else it will just keep going down the drive, so there will be a small lip but only as much as the heighest ridge in the current floor.


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## Daffyplum (Mar 29, 2010)

The product you linked is fine. It doesn't need anymore than that.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

Daffyplum said:


> I think a couple of people have misunderstood the OP. The tiles you are proposing to lay will more than likely sit fine on the floor as it is. But if it were me I would do as you are proposing and put a layer of hard wearing self levelling compound down to take the 'ripples' out of the current 'tamped' finish. This will allow the tiles to sit perfectly.
> I would seal the self levelling compound and use a garage floor paint before putting the tiles down if it were mine.
> The lip people are suggesting you have will effectively only be as thick as the tiles themselves so is not an issue. And to clarify for others you aren't laying ceramic/porcelain/quarry tiles, but interlocking rubber tiles.
> One last thing, when applying the DPM you could have cut it in neatly 2 bricks up at DPC thus creating a skirting effect, albeit straight on the brickwork.
> Update us with photos bud, and good luck.


Cheers for the above:thumb:

Not a bad idea with the DPC skirting effect however I was using a soft bristled floor sweeping brush for applying the liquid DPC so cutting it in with that wouldn't have been an easy job:lol: I need to go round the lower half of the walls with the white masonary paint again anyway so I'll just cover the black DPC with several coats of white. I had thought about bonding some plastic skirting onto the walls once the interlocking plastic tiles are down to hide the 5mm expansion gap thats required to be left at the edge of the tiles.

Just need to decide what tiles to go for. There's the ones available through the Group Buy on here but i've also had a look at Mototile and Dynotile.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

shudaman said:


> http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/cementone/Cempolay-Ultra/145
> 
> Its called ultra


Do you know if there is a primer required before this goes down? Wickes recommend using their primer before applying their own self levelling compound. Is their a similar primer for the Cempolay ultra?


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

evobaz said:


> Do you know if there is a primer required before this goes down? Wickes recommend using their primer before applying their own self levelling compound. Is their a similar primer for the Cempolay ultra?


I would say yes but i am sure it would say on the bag or maby a spec on there website weather to seal the floor befor hand i would think that the *****umen coat would be sealer enough 
I will have a check ona bag when i get one

I use it at work to fill in fireplace halves that have been removed and i do at least wet the floor befor i pour it on but i must admit the area is no bigger than 1m2 lol

There is someone on the RSOC fourm who built a prefab garage with a concrete slab for a base but then 2 pack self leveled the floor. I will try and ask him a couple of questions for ya!


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## dombaird (Jan 10, 2013)

shudaman said:


> even if u just screed over the top of whats there you will still need 40mm+ of screed over that so u will still have a lip wont you?
> 
> unless you mean brake the whole lot up and start again?


yes this, the latex screed wont be able to take the weight for very long and any water penetrating this screed will break it up also only really good for light traffic such as walking on or even storing heavy things on that doesnt move

for a long lasting screed and a proper base break up and build up with hardcore then sand and cement to a level finish.

Even though the first row of tiles comes with a lip for a 'ramp' this will work but again not for that long, the tiles may in place with no breaking but IMHO the screed below would burst


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

well its been a few months since I started this thread so here's an update.

After the initial couple of coats of liquid DPM i gave the floor a layer of Cempolay Ultra self leveling compound and gave the walls another few coats of white masonary paint and it looked like this. (excuse all the junk)




I have also installed all my conduit and trunking ready for the wiring and lighting getting done and then gave the new smooth floor another few coats of liquid DPM. It goes on brown but drier virtually black.







My flooring had arrived from Ryan @ Rtek via the group buy thread on here so have now fitted it and its looking superb.



(this was before I swept it out - was a bit windy and dusty when I was fitting it)






Just need to sort out a few small shelves, a stereo and a blind for the window and it'll be sorted.


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## Puntoboy (Jun 30, 2007)

That looks brilliant. Well done. Your garage looks pretty wide. 


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2


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## p1tse (Feb 4, 2007)

Good job


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

Puntoboy said:


> That looks brilliant. Well done. Your garage looks pretty wide.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2


Cheers:thumb:

Its not that wide to be honest. I can get the car in and walk round it just. Not really enough room to work on it in the garage.


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## fwb2006 (Aug 10, 2013)

Excellent thread Baz. I'm in the process of doing exactly the same as you have with the exception of using the Cementone Aquaprufe instead of the Wicked bitumin paint. Quick question if you don't mind, did you prime the bitumin paint before pouring the Cempolay ultra? Cheers.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

fwb2006 said:


> Excellent thread Baz. I'm in the process of doing exactly the same as you have with the exception of using the Cementone Aquaprufe instead of the Wicked bitumin paint. Quick question if you don't mind, did you prime the bitumin paint before pouring the Cempolay ultra? Cheers.


Cheers:thumb:

No I never used a primer, I just poured the Cempolay Ultra straight onto the Wickes Liquid DPM paint. (I must've done a good job as my next door neighbour now wants his done:lol


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## fwb2006 (Aug 10, 2013)

Cheers Baz. I see Weber do a product which is specifically designed for priming a bitumen floor before applying a self leveller called Weber Pr301. Dunno, might give it a go. Has the masonry paint covered the bitumen OK and what brand did you use? Cheers and thanks again.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

fwb2006 said:


> Cheers Baz. I see Weber do a product which is specifically designed for priming a bitumen floor before applying a self leveller called Weber Pr301. Dunno, might give it a go. Has the masonry paint covered the bitumen OK and what brand did you use? Cheers and thanks again.


Just check that the Weber self levelling compound is designed for taking heavy laods like cars. The Cempolay Ultra specifially says on the bags that its suitable for vehicular traffic. If the Weber stuff is ok for vehicles then it sounds like it should do the job nicely.

I used B+Q's own brand masonry paint as it was on "buy 2 get 1 free" when I was in and its covered the damp proof paint fine. It took a couple of coats but I expected that given that I was covering black with white.

Need to get a couple of updated pics done as I've stuck up a few smal shelves , a couple of banners and a blind on the window.


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## shudaman (Sep 12, 2010)

Glad to hear the selflevel went ok mate 
I bet u could roll a marble over it lol


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## markg33 (Aug 2, 2007)

Nice job, i'm in the process of bidding on a house with a similar styled garage, so its nice to see how good it can look, what are the dimensions of the garage, as I see you said you can get your car in, at least to get it stored away.

Thanks Mark G


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## ianrobbo1 (Feb 13, 2007)

Love the garage, it's inspiring me to do mine, :doublesho will have to forgo the tiles though due to cost!!


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

shudaman said:


> Glad to hear the selflevel went ok mate
> I bet u could roll a marble over it lol


Yes its made a huge difference to the floor. :thumb:



markg33 said:


> Nice job, i'm in the process of bidding on a house with a similar styled garage, so its nice to see how good it can look, what are the dimensions of the garage, as I see you said you can get your car in, at least to get it stored away.
> 
> Thanks Mark G


Thanks Mark , the garage measures 5.1m x 2.65m (internal)



ianrobbo1 said:


> Love the garage, it's inspiring me to do mine, :doublesho will have to forgo the tiles though due to cost!!


Thanks Ian, the tiles weren't cheap but they are worth it.

I've now stuck my blind up, put up a few floating shelves, added a couple of banners that I picked up and stuck my bike rack up on the wall.

I also have the original rocker cover off the Evo tucked away in the shed which I have been toying with hanging on the wall for a bit of arty farty decoration

I've been thinking about possibly insulting the roof but i'm a little unsure about the possibility of getting moisture between the roof sheets and the insulation. The outside of the roof has been painted with an industrail rubber paint so it keeps the water out. There's also a dehumidifier which runs during the winter and the car will be stored in an Air Chamber this winter too.





and a few of my other toy which I really need to start using more (for anyone into cycling)


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## fpan (Mar 16, 2007)

It looks good.
Have you got a pic with the car in it?
How much clarance have you got each side and is it enough to detail in it?
I have about 40cm or so clearance in mine (each side) and you can just about detail in it.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

fpan said:


> It looks good.
> Have you got a pic with the car in it?
> How much clarance have you got each side and is it enough to detail in it?
> I have about 40cm or so clearance in mine (each side) and you can just about detail in it.


I dont know if I have a picture with the car in it. I will get one next time i'm getting the car out. I'd think that i have more than 40cm clearance to be honest. I'd guest its probably has about 50-60cm each side. I thinki probably could do some detailing inside but it'd be a little tight and i'd probably end up with a knackered back or cracking my elbows off the walls.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

Got a couple of pics showing the space down the side of the car.


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## fpan (Mar 16, 2007)

Thanks, that's a little better than mine and pleny enough to do detailing work IMHO.


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## evobaz (Aug 28, 2007)

Well I got caught washing the car in the rain today so managed to get it into the garage to dry it off. Was enough room in the garage but could always do with a bit more room.

Reversing the car in wasn't such a great idea though as it left some nice sooty deposits on my fresh white wall.


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## Rascal_69 (Sep 20, 2009)

Looks great baz. Well done


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## Puntoboy (Jun 30, 2007)

Yeah looks a bit tight in there. doesn't help Evo's are quite wide. 

Tidy space though, at least you have somewhere. I don't think my XF would fit in the garage at all.


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