# New White Car - best products/method



## FireBIade (Dec 2, 2006)

Hi all, hope this hasn't been asked a million times before. I'm getting a championship white (Honda) at the weekend (first time owning a white car) and I was wondering what is the best way to prevent that horrible yellow tinge that happens over time and general paint care steps for white paint.

From what I've read a good layer of something with UV protection built in will help. The car will be kept outside and not garaged etc. 

Can anyone suggest some good products and any associated methods?


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## ryand (Jul 18, 2008)

Wekstatt stuff I think is good on white. Check out the Audi TT write up from ahaydock using these products.


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## Def996 (Jul 15, 2010)

I can second the recommendation for Werkstat. I have it on my white volvo. Also a heads-up, Polished Bliss have a deal that is running on Werkstat until tomorrow lunchtime, buy one get one free or they even do the kit at 20% off just now.


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## WillyWortel19 (Aug 18, 2008)

We have at home 2 white cars. I detailed also other white cars. Tried waxes en sealants. I recommend you using the Zaino system (Z-2) = sealant. You won't get a better finish on white than with Zaino, and it will last longer than a wax.


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## pete5570 (Jun 11, 2010)

I'd choose a sealant instead of a wax for white. looks much cleaner. A friend of mine used Optiseal a month ago. Still going strong and looking good, much easier to clean also. Gtechniq C2 or Zaino Z2 are other popular options.


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## domino (Apr 19, 2010)

acrylic sealants work best on white in my experience

klasse, carlack, polylack, werkstatt are all acrylic sealants and all made by the same company afaik


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## mattykhz (Apr 14, 2006)

I took up the Polished Bliss offer to get some Wekstatt for my wifes Alipne White 118d M Sport.

Apparently the last offer was a year ago so worth trying and not missing out.


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## npinks (Feb 25, 2008)

i use good old Collies 476s on mine and DD supernatraul when i can on my white freelander2

though i have ordered some Bilthamber Hydra after seeing it on the whitevan review


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## DIESEL DAVE (Jul 26, 2007)

C2 conc. looks fantastic on the youngest daughters Corsa and has the added bonus of topping up the protection everytime its QD`d with C2 which being white is very frequent:thumb:


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## CleanYourCar (Jan 23, 2006)

Carlack Nano Systematic care topped with FK1000p would work a charm on White. 

Zaino Z2 (finishing kit) would also be superb and be slightly slicker.


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## billyp (Jul 24, 2010)

another here for z2 not used anything that comes up as well on white


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## Matt. (Aug 26, 2007)

If i were you, i'd get the Werkstat. Its on offer from Polished Bliss as others have said. Take a look at -Kev-'s thread in the Showroom... here


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

mattastra said:


> If i were you, i'd get the Werkstat. Its on offer from Polished Bliss as others have said. Take a look at -Kev-'s thread in the Showroom... here


cheers matt, would get some more coats of jett down when i get home from work if it did'nt get dark by 7pm :wall:


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

domino said:


> acrylic sealants work best on white in my experience
> 
> klasse, carlack, polylack, werkstatt are all acrylic sealants and all made by the same company afaik


iirc the carlack is klasse in a different bottle and carlack and werkstat products are similar but not indentical...


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## Matt. (Aug 26, 2007)

-Kev- said:


> cheers matt, would get some more coats of jett down when i get home from work if it did'nt get dark by 7pm :wall:


Tell me about it, the nights are drawing in pretty quick. I used Jett at the weekend, although on a black car.

It was way too hot though, just dried straight on. Needed to get some protection down though. :wall:


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## wedgie (Apr 5, 2008)

Another champ white honda owner here mate :thumb::thumb:


I did try the zaino route (zfx'd Z2 and topped up with Z8) and to tell the truth i struggled to see what all the fuss was about. Wax wise, i found that SV Glacier and Zymol Glasur gave great results on the champ white paint but have a look at Autobrite Directs new "Distinction" as i have a single layer on my rear wing and its water behavior and finish is better than the 2 layers of Glacier that were applied 4 weeks later ...


HTH


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## sal329 (Jun 27, 2008)

Duragloss 501 will brighten and clean like no other you can use it alone or top with , col 845, fk 1000p or wax of choice.


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

wedgie said:


> Another champ white honda owner here mate :thumb::thumb:
> 
> I did try the zaino route (zfx'd Z2 and topped up with Z8) and to tell the truth i struggled to see what all the fuss was about. Wax wise, i found that SV Glacier and Zymol Glasur gave great results on the champ white paint but have a look at Autobrite Directs new "Distinction" as i have a single layer on my rear wing and its water behavior and finish is better than the 2 layers of Glacier that were applied 4 weeks later ...
> 
> HTH


werkstat is better than zaino imo kev, much easier to use


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## Nanoman (Jan 17, 2009)

I've got a white A3 so I think I can comment here.

If you're doing low miles or you can clean your car very frequently go for the Werkstat Acrylic Kit. It looks brilliant especially with a few layers of AJT. You feel like you're pampering your pride and joy.

If you are doing high miles or want to help it stay cleaner for longer then go for G-techniq C2. I think it looks as good as the Werkstat kit but it's a lot easier to apply/maintain and keeps you car much cleaner if you can't wash it as often. The problem is it's so good that you feel a bit like you're neglecting your car because you aren't spending hours pampering it.

As mentioned PB have a cracking offer on the Werkstat kit. You don't need loads of Prime Acrylic but stock up on AJT and glos while you can.


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## Th3Doctor (Feb 2, 2010)

Champ White owner here too I sware by poorboys White diamond with a LC glazing pad then some natty's paste wax for light cars over the top makes the paint look liquid


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## FireBIade (Dec 2, 2006)

Thanks for all the replies guys I've got a lot of products to investigate there so I will take a look over the weekend. In between adding some more running in miles to the car


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*Detailing and Care of White Paint*

Tends to turn grey with time (an unsightly grey film) which is due to road dirt becoming ingrained in the paint, a chemical cleaner and a polish will normally rectify this. The 'yellowing' is paint oxidation caused by ultra violet radiation; it takes time and neglect of the paint for this to occur.

There are approximately 10-20 different colours that are mixed with white to produce various shades. The colour formula for white paint is a mix of red, yellow, green, blue and black in various percentages to arrive at the required 'tint' colour (i.e. arctic white, brilliant white, etc) Ultra violet radiation sometimes places an emphasis on the yellow and creates a tarnished look, in a similar way a red paint turns to pink due to the red oxide content in the paints colour formula (this is more pronounced in older style paint like single pack acrylic or cellulose based paint rather than modern clear on base 2K pack paints

With all vehicles a regular routine of cleaning the paint surface is important; more so with light coloured paint as dirt is more noticeable than on darker colours. Clean paint surface with a chemical paint cleaner and / or detailer's clay and then use an abrasive polish to remove any oxidation.

Most people may think white paint won't show paint defects when clean, actually it will, you just have to look harder than darker colour paint like a black car; but they are there as the light will refract as opposed to reflect. A level clear is just as desirable on a white/silver or light colour vehicle

*Paint Hardness*

The enamel paint finishes on vehicles from the 50's and 60's era were as tough as porcelain. But rightly due to environmental concerns, those high percentage petroleum based paints have been generally superseded, resulting in the softer water-based paint finishes of today and the unavoidable orange-peel seen on many new and re-painted vehicles.

Today's paints, unfortunately, rank somewhere near the bottom of the scale of hardness, especially single coat black / red paint the exception being white single stage paint, which is 7 on a scale 1-10 and CeramiClear, when compared to all the materials your paint can possibly come in contact with (always bear that in mind).

*Mohs scale of Hardness*

A system of measurement to establish a guide as to the relative hardness of various materials, Mohs scale of mineral hardness was devised by the German mineralogist Frederich Mohs in 1812, selecting ten minerals because they were common or readily available. The scale is not a linear scale, but somewhat arbitrary.

The hardness of a material is measured against the scale by finding the hardest material that the given material can scratch, and/or the softest material that can scratch the given material. For example, if some material is scratched by apatite but not by fluorite, its hardness on Mohs scale is 4.5

*An adaptation of that scale;*

Talc =1, Carbon Black = 2, [black paint pigmentation] and Copper = 3, Platinum = 4, Iron = 5, Glass = 6, Quartz or Titanium dioxide = 7 [white paint pigmentation] and Topaz = 8, Corundum or Ruby = 9, Diamond =10

White paint is a 7/10 on the Mohs scale (Titanium dioxide) although hard and soft is a relative terms; you can scratch the hard surface of vehicles paint with a soft towel by the application of enough pressure. Both pressure and mechanical stress are defined as force per unit area. These two forces are the subject of Newton's third law of motion; the law of reciprocal actions _[: to every action there is an equal and opposite reaction]_

How can a hard clear coat be so easily scratched? Force acts through a body that has a surface area; if the surface area is really small while maintaining an equal force, the pressure becomes astronomical and the object under pressure capable of penetrating the surface of an otherwise tough material. That's why a micro fine thread that is twice as fine as silk and a 100 times finer than a human hair, in an otherwise soft towel will scratch your paint. And the same reason a mosquito can penetrate a rhino hide with its proboscis (stinger).

White paint tends to turn grey with time (an unsightly grey film) which is due to road dirt becoming ingrained in the paint, a chemical cleaner and a polish will normally rectify this. The 'yellowing' is paint oxidation caused by ultra violet radiation; it takes time and neglect of the paint for this to occur. Clean paint surface with a chemical paint cleaner and then use an abrasive polish to remove oxidation.

With all vehicles a regular routine of cleaning the paint surface is important; more so with light coloured paint as dirt is more noticeable than on darker colours.

Most people may think white paint won't show paint defects when clean, actually it will, you just have to look harder than darker colour paint like a black car; but they are there as the light will refract as opposed to reflect. A level clear is just as desirable on a white/silver or light colour car

There are approximately 10-20 different colours that are mixed with white to produce various shades. The colour formula for white paint is a mix of yellow, blue, green, red, and black in various percentages to arrive at the required 'tint' colour (i.e. arctic white, brilliant white, etc) Ultra violet radiation sometimes places an emphasis on the yellow and creates a tarnished look, in a similar way a red paint turns to pink due to the red oxide content in the paints colour formula (this is more pronounced in older style paint like single pack acrylic or cellulose based paint rather than modern clear on base 2K pack paints

*Paint Surface Cleaning *

With all vehicles a regular routine of cleaning the paint surface is important; more so with light colour paint as dirt is more noticeable than on darker colours. Clean paint surface with a chemical paint cleaner and / or detailer's clay and then use an abrasive polish to remove any oxidation.

With white colour paint, over time the surface tends to attain an unsightly grey film, which is due to road dirt becoming ingrained in the pain. Regular use of P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash, a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner or an all-in-one (AIO) type cleaner polish will ensure surface road dirt and grime is removed from the paint surface restoring the gloss to the paint surface. The 'yellowing' is paint oxidation caused by ultra violet (UV-A) radiation; it takes time and neglect of the paint for this to occur.

White paint is subject to rail dust like every other paint colour; the only difference is that the rust stains show more redily than darker colours. Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants, like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental contaminants from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system.

*Schedule:* annually, dependent upon environmental conditions and vehicle exposure but more often on light coloured paint. To optimize the reflective properties and appearance of the paint surface, it is best to regularly remove both imbedded and surface contaminants and road dirt and oils.

*C. Quartz IronX* is a one-step, highly effective car paint decontamination that can be used on car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys) beyond what can be removed by washing or by using detailer's clay, Used for the removal of sintered (heat fused) metal particulates, this product has the cleaning power of sulphuric acid but with a pH of 7.0 by using a neutralised acid salt.

Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base. Common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, when mixed with water cause an exothermic chemical reaction, which loosens the sintered ferrous metal particulates, which have been converted entirely to rust and disintegrates forming a miscible emulsion that can be rinsed away. It starts off green, then red and then to blood red. Allow to to remain in place for a minute, agitate and rinse.

If you are familiar with detailing clay, you know it is capable of removing above surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint surface. This product is designed to remove what lies below the paint surface. Airborne chemical compounds and ferrous particles containing iron actually penetrate the paint and create corrosive compounds that eat deep into the paint's substrate. This is a gradual process that often is not evident until it's too late.

-An excerpt from The Art & Science of Detailing http://togwt1980.blogspot.com

_Let me know if you have any further questions or concerns_

*Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved​*


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## FireBIade (Dec 2, 2006)

This stuff?
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-acrylic-jett-trigger-cat12.html

So the method goes:

Wash (2 bucket method) & lambs wool mitt

Dry with a new plush microfibre & (megs last touch ok as a drying lube with the sealant later?)

Apply the sealant by spraying on and gently wiping off with another new plush microfibre

Do I need to add a wax layer? (I have collinte 476s and Megs NXT at the moment, I'd rather not use 476 because it's really heavy stuff to remove but willing to try something else)

Looks like I need to order some microfibres and a new washmitt anyhow.


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## -Kev- (Oct 30, 2007)

I'd go for the complete kit myself - prime for cleansing the paint, jett for protection and gloss for quick detailing. jett is applied by spray on sparinglyand buffing off. no need for a wax on top, plenty durable on it's own and alot easier to use in the upcoming cold weather


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

My favorite Products on White car 
CG Wet Mirror Finish by machine.
Werkstat Acrylic Jett.
Dodo Supernatural - Zymol Glasur - P21s Concours look .


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

-Kev- said:


> werkstat is better than zaino imo kev, much easier to use


Yesterday I tried Zaino it leaves some smearing I'm sure i applied very thin layer 
but maybe the weather here cause this problem however Zaino adds nice shine. I'm agree with you Werkstat much better and easier i like to use it as a quick base coat before carnuba wax.


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## HEADPHONES (Jan 1, 2008)

C Quartx Iron X:thumb:

I used the AQuartz Iron Cut which i think is the predecessor.
Gets the fallout/rust dots off white paint that clay and other cleansers don't shift.

Tried loadsa sealants and waxes every few weeks but couldn't stop these yellow dots welding to the rear of my wife's white mini.

My Iron Cut has revolutionised my armoury. Reminds me of discovering clay for the first time


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