# Blowing in clearcoat by can?



## devonutopia (May 29, 2006)

Just got a pug 106 absolutely dirt cheap - as a fall back runaround.

The drivers door had bad lacquer peel on the pillar and above the handle. I have wet-sanded all the bad lacquer away (missed a couple of bits) but not sure what to so where bad lacquer merges into good lacquer. I have not sanded too hard in this area and am concerned about making good the clearcoat, once I have got the original paint surface in reasonable enough condition first.

I am not after an A1 job, but it would be good to know how to blow in the clearcoat to the best I really can.

BEFORE:-









AFTER (wet) :-


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## CTR De (Feb 10, 2011)

a lot of pugs have black vinyl on that pillar so why not just wrap then ? , it peanuts to buy and will smarten that up with the minimum of work


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## mattsbmw (Jul 20, 2008)

CTR De said:


> a lot of pugs have black vinyl on that pillar so why not just wrap then ? , it peanuts to buy and will smarten that up with the minimum of work


That is a very sensible suggestion.


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## Andyb0127 (Jan 16, 2011)

Was just about to say cover it with black vinyl. 
If you can get any let me know I'm sure I have some carbon look vinyl at work that your more than welcome to if I can find it. :thumb:


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## devonutopia (May 29, 2006)

As much as I can appreciate the black vinyl approach, the poor lacquer goes across the top of the door, and is around the top of the handle area and around 12" along the line of the window seal as well. If it was just the area pictured, I would definitely have done that.  Thanks for the helpful suggestion though - appreciated.


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## MK1Campaign (Mar 27, 2007)

You won't be able to just clear it. It will all need flatting back, base coating then lacquer.


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## Hoovie (Sep 3, 2008)

I would be inclined to lacquer where you have repaired with a and then use a fade-out spray such as the one from U-POL (Fade Out #20) to blend in with the area that you haven't needed to touch. That is usually effective and after a polish once fully hardened should be an invisible transition.


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## devonutopia (May 29, 2006)

MK1Campaign said:


> You won't be able to just clear it. It will all need flatting back, base coating then lacquer.


Really? Is there something different about the original basecoat to a freshly applied basecoat?


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## Lazy-Moose (Sep 7, 2011)

Its worth a go mate, just clear it and see what happens. The worst that can happen really is if there is trapped moisture under the old clear coat this will show up, other than that, it actually comes out ok, I have done it a few times. I however have done it with proper 2K stuff with my compressor and gun, not sure if a can job will do as good a job. But it won't look any worse than it already does, and you can always strip it back and do it properly anyway!

Problem is, those bits will appear more red than the rest of the car


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

devonutopia said:


> Really? Is there something different about the original basecoat to a freshly applied basecoat?


It's impossible to remove lacquer by flatting back without also flatting back the base - and flatting back a base will in most cases change the appearance of the colour.
Those that have ever burnt through lacquer when machine polishing (go on you know you have) will have noticed that it isn't just a case of 'the nice shiny lacquer has gone' - it also changes the colour. 
You'd definitely never get away with removing by flatting back the lacquer on colour that has any pearl or silver in it's mix - the change would be dramatic -because the pearl and metallic particles will have also been damaged, and therefore the reflective properties of those damaged particles have changed, which in turn changes the appearance of the paint. 
So best practice is to flat back the lacquer to the base, give a few light coats of fresh base to restore any damage done to the base and then re-lacquer.


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