# Polishing a car wearing soft paint?



## BradleyW

What's the best polish to use on a car wearing soft paint / soft clear coat to fix light scratches / swirls without causing marring?

I was thinking M205 with a white Hex logic pad. (DAS 6 DA).
I've watched junkman2000 on Youtube. He suggests 105 +205 (Orange + White Hex Pads) but did specify on soft paint.

Thank you.


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## Carshine

On a car with soft paint, I would try my least aggressive polish. 
You could say it would depend on how much swirls/rds the paint has. You have two options: 
A. Correcting the paint by removing a thin layer of clear coat 
B. Using a polish with fillers to hide the swirls. (Like Autoglym SRP)

Meguiars 205 finishing polish or Dodo Juice Lime Prime I suggest.


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## Andy from Sandy

I suspect in America the Junkman is dealing with one type of clear coat and I also suspect that the cars over there get a good coat of it so he is confident in what he can use and how to proceed.

No matter what the car is if it is the first time it has been touched follow the golden rule of start light and check the removal rate before moving to a heavier cutting combination.


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## BradleyW

Carshine said:


> On a car with soft paint, I would try my least aggressive polish.
> You could say it would depend on how much swirls/rds the paint has. You have two options:
> A. Correcting the paint by removing a thin layer of clear coat
> B. Using a polish with fillers to hide the swirls. (Like Autoglym SRP)
> 
> Meguiars 205 finishing polish or Dodo Juice Lime Prime I suggest.


Aye, I'd rather remove the clear coat damage without hiding with fillers, because I don't want to be messing around with the car all the time other than washing and waxing. Sadly fillers don't last forever, even with a good sealant I've been told.

So, is M205 good enough to actually provide a perfect finish without a follow-up?


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## lowejackson

BradleyW said:


> ......So, is M205 good enough to actually provide a perfect finish without a follow-up?


Yes. 205 is more than good enough. Start with a finishing pad rather than a polishing pad, it maybe all you need


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## BradleyW

lowejackson said:


> Yes. 205 is more than good enough. Start with a finishing pad rather than a polishing pad, it maybe all you need


Which colour Hex Logic Pad would that be?

Thank you.


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## lowejackson

I think it is the black pad but it is worth checking the Hexlogic chart just to make sure.


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## smifeune

Black is finishing.

Another alternative is scholl s40, on either a blue or black pad


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## BradleyW

Thanks all.


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## cheekymonkey

smifeune said:


> Black is finishing.
> 
> Another alternative is scholl s40, on either a blue or black pad


scholl s40 is great on soft paint, if a bit more bite is needed use a white polishing pad first


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## smifeune

Here's a few 50/50's with scholl s40 on a blue hex pad on soft paint


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## BradleyW

cheekymonkey said:


> scholl s40 is great on soft paint, if a bit more bite is needed use a white polishing pad first


Is that marring I can see?










Thank you.


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## smifeune

No loss of shine, it could be the camera as they we're taken on my phone.

Ill dig out some finished pics, it wasn't completely corrected, just an enhancement, but s40 on it's own removed 90% of marks. as said it'll have more bite with a white pad.

Here's a finished pic for you


No loss of shine on the boot


ta


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## martin.breslin

A few of us Honda (soft and sticky) drivers apparently use scholl (not sure if it was S40 or if there's an S20) for cutting and megs 205 for finishing as its pressure dependant as to how much it cuts. They also say to use lake and country orange and crimson too. I've not personally done it, this is what I've been told by a couple of trusted friends. One is a pro detailer.


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## BradleyW

Looks pretty good! Did you notice any marks or marring from the polisher?


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## turbosnoop

Lovely shine on that!


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## smifeune

No marring pal.

S40 is very fine indeed and finishes down very well on the soft paint


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## Blueberry

This was machine polished using Scholl S40.
I'm a big fan of M205 but decided to try out S40 on the soft paint of this RCZ that I recently did.

All photo sure unedited and no filters, straight from iPhone.























































The later photos were taken when it was overcast.


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## martin.breslin

martin.breslin said:


> A few of us Honda (soft and sticky) drivers apparently use scholl (not sure if it was S40 or if there's an S20) for cutting and megs 205 for finishing as its pressure dependant as to how much it cuts. They also say to use lake and country orange and crimson too. I've not personally done it, this is what I've been told by a couple of trusted friends. One is a pro detailer.


I apologise for getting this the wrong way round. It was a while back.


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## martin.breslin

Blueberry said:


> This was machine polished using Scholl S40.
> I'm a big fan of M205 but decided to try out S40 on the soft paint of this RCZ that I recently did.
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> All photo sure unedited and no filters, straight from iPhone.
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That is one reflective finish!! I'm in awe


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## Blueberry

martin.breslin said:


> That is one reflective finish!! I'm in awe


Cheers


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## BradleyW

Blueberry said:


> This was machine polished using Scholl S40.
> I'm a big fan of M205 but decided to try out S40 on the soft paint of this RCZ that I recently did.
> 
> All photo sure unedited and no filters, straight from iPhone.
> The later photos were taken when it was overcast.


Which DA and pad did you use?

Is this the magic product you speak of?
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-p...-concepts-s40-anti-swirl-250ml/prod_1055.html


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## Choppy

Another one for scholl s40, worked great on my civic


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## BradleyW

Which pad did you use?


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## Choppy

I used an orange scholl pad for that with my rotary


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## BradleyW

Choppy said:


> I used an orange scholl pad for that with my rotary


Thanks for the info!


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## Choppy

I'd go white hex pad with that


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## BradleyW

Choppy said:


> I'd go white hex pad with that


So, straight to the Hex White? I might try Black Hex first, then move to White Hex if it is not strong enough.

Would a Orange Hex pad with M105 + M205 be way too harsh for soft paint? The reason I ask is because my hood has various visible scratches caused by an auto car wash. It is the part of the car that may require slightly aggressive attention! Also, I have some writing near the MG badge. How do I polish around it? Here is a stock pic of my car with the writing:










Thank you sir!


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## Choppy

I would try 205 first and see how you get on before going for more cut, check your paint readings too. For the badge you could just tape it and go as close as you can or remove it then stick it back on when you're done


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## BradleyW

Choppy said:


> I would try 205 first and see how you get on before going for more cut, check your paint readings too. For the badge you could just tape it and go as close as you can or remove it then stick it back on when you're done


Which cuts more, 205 or S40?


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## Choppy

205 I think but not by much, scholl s30+ has more than s40 and finishes very well. I tried it out on a Nissan 350z the other week


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## BradleyW

Choppy said:


> 205 I think but not by much, scholl s30+ has more than s40 and finishes very well. I tried it out on a Nissan 350z the other week


Thanks for the clarification.

Would this be a suitable paint meter?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-TA...ba66e7&pid=100338&rk=1&rkt=30&sd=251699449950


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## Blueberry

BradleyW said:


> Which DA and pad did you use?
> 
> Is this the magic product you speak of?
> http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-p...-concepts-s40-anti-swirl-250ml/prod_1055.html


Yes that's the right stuff.

I used a white CG Hexlogic pad on a DAS6.


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## louisk

HD polish is excellent for a marr free finish. Megs 205 leaves marring on my car, and HD polish is so easy to use, it removes as easy as powerlock paint sealant.


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## Coachman

Try 205 on a white pad before you move into 105. 

IMHO 205 is such an amazing finishing polish that A) cuts well and B) finishes beautifully


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## Steampunk

I see from your avatar that you are an MG-Rover fan...

I own a Leyland MG from the 1970's, and its original paint is one of the softest I have polished. I have successfully removed serious defects, and finished down perfectly on its paint using Scholl Concepts, Meguiar's, Menzerna, and Optimum products to name but a few, in combination with many different types of pads. None of the products I have tried have been a 'magic bullet' for soft paint, nor in my experience are any two soft paints exactly alike. The trick to handling soft paint, is understanding your products, along with many hours of practice to get a feel for how they respond. Correcting soft paint is a finesse game, and you won't necessarily get great results out of the box, but with experience and learning you will.

My advice is to pick a product line (The four I mentioned are all very good), based upon which one has the most appealing marketing, which creates the finished pictures you like the best, which technique appeals to you the most, etc... Really, it doesn't matter which you choose, as all of them can typically be made to work. Afterwards, read all of the articles you can about how to extract 100% of what those products have to offer, as soft paints tend to demand your full attention.

Menzerna polishes are very traditional diminishing abrasive polishes, using the Zenith-Point-Method: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859. They have a long working cycle (Not suitable for those with a short attention span... Ooh, look at the kitty!), and can be a little finicky about humidity, but create a bright, crystalline type finish (Great flake pop on metallics), and are very pleasurable to work with.

IMGP8334 by Mole Hill Motors, on Flickr
PF2500 on a Tangerine HT pad; no LSP.

For soft paint, SF4500 and PF2500 would be a good combo to start with. PF2500 might struggle with _really_ _DEEP_ scratches, but combined with some pressure and a heavy cutting pad can still move some serious defects on soft paint. A couple low-profile, 5.5" 'Rotary' Lake Country Hydro-Tech Crimson pad (Available @ Polished Bliss), Tangerine Hydro-Tech pads, and some Scholl Concepts White Spider Sandwich pads should round out a nice pad collection for tackling a wide range of defects on soft paint.

Meguiar's polishes use non-diminishing abrasives, and rely on the Kevin Brown Method to reach their potential: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4. They are very versatile, as their cutting and finishing potential are 100% in your control; you can remove as little or as much paint as you want, but this also means that they can sometimes be a little more demanding in tricky situations than diminishing polishes.... Think manual transmission vs. automatic. The finish they can provide is very rich, and deep.

IMGP5121 by Mole Hill Motors, on Flickr 
M205 on Red LC CCS; no LSP.

On soft paint, M205 and D300 would be my polish picks, along with some Lake Country Blue Constant Pressure pads: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/machine-polishing-pads/lake-country-constant-pressure-pads/lake-country-constant-pressure-blue-pad/prod_630.html, some Orange Scholl Concepts pads or Tangerine Lake Country Hydro-Tech 'Rotary' pads, and either some Flexipads or Buff & Shine Microfiber cuttings pads (If you have access to an air compressor) or some Scholl White Spider Sandwich pads (If you don't.). Again, this would be a nice set to get you started. I would typically not advise M105 on soft paint, as it doesn't have the lubrication to cut efficiently on these materials, and can leave behind A LOT of micro-marring to clean up later with M205.

Scholl are very fast diminishing abrasive polishes, and use a technique that is something of a hybrid of the above two. They create a dark, deep finish, and are beautifully lubricated for use on soft paint. I have used everything from S40 to S20 Blue to finish out successfully on my MGB:

IMGP2831 by Mole Hill Motors, on Flickr
S40 on Crimson HT; no LSP.

On soft paint, S40 or S30+ (The former is slightly finer and deeper, the latter provides a slightly glassier finish with more flake-pop, and has more cutting potential for tackling light defects.), and S17+, with some Scholl Concepts Orange or Lake Country Crimson and Tangerine pads (The orange sits in between the two), and some White Spider Sandwich pads will tackle pretty much any defect you need on soft paint.

Optimum Polish II is a non-diminishing polish, which offers similar cutting performance to something like Meguiar's D300 or Ultimate Compound, but has - in my opinion - a slightly nicer lubricant, which gives it better finishing abilities on soft paint, and makes it a little nicer to work with. In regards to technique and pad selection, I would treat it the same as I outlined for Meguiar's above. This gets close to M205 for finishing potential, and is often the only polish I need to cut/finish on most 'soft paint', but on really sensitive finishes I would follow up with something like Optimum Finish Polish II or Poli-Seal if you want to stick with the Optimum line. To me, OP-II is the real jewel of the line, and I mix & match my finishing polish afterwards (Scholl, Menzerna, Megs, etc.) as OFP-II doesn't really excite me in terms of the finish it leaves behind, but it is a competent finishing polish on soft paint.

IMGP5987 by Mole Hill Motors, on Flickr
OFP-II on Crimson HT; no LSP.

With soft paint, cleanliness, and not introducing more marring is very important, so I would recommend investing in some good towels like the Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile and Yellow Fellow 2.0 for wax/QD, and polish removal duties, as well as a high quality wool wash mitt and Microfiber Madness drying towel to maintain in between. These items, whilst premium, have been the best purchases I have made in regards to keeping vehicles with sensitive paint looking nice.

Hopefully this helps... If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. :thumb:

- Steampunk


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## AndyA4TDI

Sam, you are an absolute credit to this forum, always so helpful and vastly knowledgeable.


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## sm81

Haven't tried those others but agree 100% that OP Polish II is awesome polish and works very well also together with soft paints. It is very easy to remove afterwards so big plus there :thumb:


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## BradleyW

Hey steampunk,

I've got to say, that's an extremely well presented post. I've found it most helpful. Each shot looks excellent and the information is well presented for a first time polisher. As a side note, that's on of the nicest MG's I've seen for a while. Hopefully I can achieve a similar finish on my MG6 Magnette. Also, I love the badge! SAIC/SMTC have chosen to use the old style MG badge again on the newer line up of MG/Roewe's! 

Huge thank you!


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## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> Hey steampunk,
> 
> I've got to say, that's an extremely well presented post. I've found it most helpful. Each shot looks excellent and the information is well presented for a first time polisher. As a side note, that's on of the nicest MG's I've seen for a while. Hopefully I can achieve a similar finish on my MG6 Magnette. Also, I love the badge! SAIC/SMTC have chosen to use the old style MG badge again on the newer line up of MG/Roewe's!
> 
> Huge thank you!


Hello,

I'm glad that I could be of service, and thank you for the compliment on my MGB. Great cars, and history behind the badge... Like Bentley earned the title for being the first automobile called 'Supercar', MG was the first car to ever be called 'Sportscar' by motoring journalists. I am glad to see that the badge hasn't died.

I've wetsanded the paint in pictures 2 & 3, which is partly why the reflections are so clear, but pictures 1 & 4 are natural, with very light texture. Slight difference, I should have mentioned... However, they do illustrate that one can achieve excellent finishes on soft paint with a wide variety of polishes and pads. If you read, and practice, your Magnette will look stunning! There is a point, with soft paint, before you crack that perfect finish, when it becomes frustrating. Persevere, because perfection is right around the corner. :thumb:

If you ever have any questions about paintwork correction, you can PM if you need to. I'm always happy to help...



- Steampunk


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## BradleyW

Hello,

Absolutely, the MG badge has a rich history.At least they have more or less grown stronger with the backing of SAIC / SMTC under the name of MG and Roewe (Chinese for Rover).

If I may ask a question or two, I've been repairing stone chips on the front bumper, I noticed that when I tap the bumper it sounds and feels like plastic.

1) What is it likely made of? 
2) Is it safe to use a DA on such a bumper?

The bonnet (hood) is metal for sure. The doors feel it too. The side wings, front and back bumpers sound a little different, like knocking on plastic. Could even be fibre glass. Not sure.

Once again, thank you for the help and advice from everyone. You've all helped so much. I'm learning a lot about car detailing and soft paints.

Edit: Example of bumper (Image found on Google for reference):


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## Steampunk

Yes, the front and rear bumpers on most modern cars are made from ABS plastic for low-speed crash standards. Basically, it's a neater version of the polyurethane 'rubber' bumpers they started requiring on cars in the US during the 1970's; an action pushed by insurance companies to reduce accident damage payout for common, 5mph parking accidents.

It is perfectly fine to use a DA polisher on such materials. The only things one has to remember when polishing plastic panels is (A) they do not dissipate heat like metal, so when performing VERY heavy correction one must keep an eye on the heat levels, and (B) they are non-magnetic, so ultrasonic paint thickness gauges are required if you want a reading off of them. Otherwise, they are painted exactly like metal, and neither of the above facts should effect you in your situation, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Hopefully this helps... If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask. :thumb:

- Steampunk


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## Bod42

Steampunk, always appreciate your post. What are your thoughts on the Sonax range of polishes. They seem to be getting a lot of attention state side. Especially the Perfect Finish.


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## Steampunk

I have never used the Sonax line of polishes, so sadly cannot comment on them 1st hand. I do know that a lot of the people use them, and enjoy them, but will say that not all of the feedback I have heard from top-level pros in the US has been positive. Some of these comments have come from people I trust, which is why I have been somewhat reticent to try them myself. If you would like to try them, I would go for it, but I would advise researching them thoroughly first. 

I wish that I could be of more help... 

- Steampunk


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Yes, the front and rear bumpers on most modern cars are made from ABS plastic for low-speed crash standards. Basically, it's a neater version of the polyurethane 'rubber' bumpers they started requiring on cars in the US during the 1970's; an action pushed by insurance companies to reduce accident damage payout for common, 5mph parking accidents.
> 
> It is perfectly fine to use a DA polisher on such materials. The only things one has to remember when polishing plastic panels is (A) they do not dissipate heat like metal, so when performing VERY heavy correction one must keep an eye on the heat levels, and (B) they are non-magnetic, so ultrasonic paint thickness gauges are required if you want a reading off of them. Otherwise, they are painted exactly like metal, and neither of the above facts should effect you in your situation, so I wouldn't worry about it.
> 
> Hopefully this helps... If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask. :thumb:
> 
> - Steampunk


Thanks dude! You've cleared up some concerns of mine! 

I wanted to see if MG could shed some light on the type of paint my car uses. I asked if MG6 uses soft paint because it easily gets scratched when rubbing with slight pressure with a soft cloth. Here is the reply:



> Good Morning MR ***********,
> 
> MG Uses PPG paint on all the current vehicles.
> 
> I am not aware of any issues we have had on either MG3 or MG6 with soft paint.
> 
> Have you owned the vehicle since new? If not could the vehicle have had any work done to the bodywork? Is the issue (soft Paint) only affected on certain areas of the vehicle.
> 
> Best Regards
> 
> ******


What do you guy's think?

Cheers.


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## Steampunk

I'm happy to be of assistance... :thumb:

Pennsylvania Paint and Glass (PPG) is a decent manufacturer, but like any paint company they have many paint lines at different quality levels, and many different types of clearcoat offered under each label. These clears can vary from silly-soft to horrendously-hard, irrespective of the quality level of the line they come from. It's just the nature of paint...

Also, when a detailer talks about 'soft paint', they mean paint with 'low abrasion resistance'. When a car manufacturer, salesman, mechanic, etc hears 'soft paint' they tend to think 'under-cured', where you can actually leave an imprint in the paint with a finger. The former is a fairly normal characteristic that influences how you approach polishing, and maintaining that vehicle. The latter, is a defect in the finishing process, which the manufacturer/salesman/mechanic then assumes could turn into a warranty claim. Based upon the reply you received, I'm guessing that this is exactly what ****** assumed. 

When detailing soft paint, there is a mantra one must adopt in order to not be frustrated by it at every turn:

(1) - Take no liberties. If it looks like it could mar, it will. When in doubt, always use the softest towels/pads, and avoid working 'dry' whenever possible; use lubricant... Always try to reduce friction. 

(2) - When polishing, nine times out of ten, the marring you see isn't coming from the pad or the abrasives, but from the paint swarf which is being abraded away, building up in the pad and or the carrier oils of the product. You always need to think about how to keep that swarf from reaching a critical point where it can create marring, including frequent pad cleaning, the use of highly lubricated polishes, and or pads capable of isolating high quantities of paint residue. 

(3) - Be careful when selecting pre-wax cleaners. Often these are labeled as 'non-abrasive', but in reality, they rarely are. 

(4) - If you get good results, assume that it's because the product filled until proven otherwise. Always use a well lubricated alcohol prep-product like CarPro Eraser after polishing to help you double-check the quality of your results, and check the paint under multiple light sources; I find that an inexpensive, low-powered LED torch is typically one of the best to check for hazing if good sunlight isn't available. 

(5) - Washing is the most critical stage in maintaining a car with soft paint; always use the softest, highest-quality wash media/drying towels, and think about the dirt on the paint... Ask yourself things like "How am I going to get that bit of tree bark off the car without it rubbing up against the paint?", and "How am I going to get this road salt off without having to agitate it and risk marring the finish?". Rather than use elbow-grease to remove insect splatters, or a stubborn bit of dirt/tar, use the proper cleaner and let the chemical do the work for you. 

(6) - Never attempt to detail your car when you are feeling hurried, stressed, or do not feel capable of tackling problems which might arise. Marring is always a break of concentration away on sensitive finishes, and without a cool, relaxed head, it can easily turn a wonderful day detailing into a nightmarish one. Grab a beer, take your time, and the results will pay off. Knowing your own limits, and when to quit for the day is often one of your most important skills in detailing.

(7) - Finally, keep it simple. The more steps there are, the more opportunities you have to introduce marring. It also makes detailing easier, and more relaxing, as you aren't trying to cram too much into your day. 

Hopefully this helps... These are just my experiences maintaining soft paint. If you have anymore questions, keep them coming! 

- Steampunk


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> I'm happy to be of assistance... :thumb:
> 
> Pennsylvania Paint and Glass (PPG) is a decent manufacturer, but like any paint company they have many paint lines at different quality levels, and many different types of clearcoat offered under each label. These clears can vary from silly-soft to horrendously-hard, irrespective of the quality level of the line they come from. It's just the nature of paint...
> 
> Also, when a detailer talks about 'soft paint', they mean paint with 'low abrasion resistance'. When a car manufacturer, salesman, mechanic, etc hears 'soft paint' they tend to think 'under-cured', where you can actually leave an imprint in the paint with a finger. The former is a fairly normal characteristic that influences how you approach polishing, and maintaining that vehicle. The latter, is a defect in the finishing process, which the manufacturer/salesman/mechanic then assumes could turn into a warranty claim. Based upon the reply you received, I'm guessing that this is exactly what ****** assumed.
> 
> When detailing soft paint, there is a mantra one must adopt in order to not be frustrated by it at every turn:
> 
> (1) - Take no liberties. If it looks like it could mar, it will. When in doubt, always use the softest towels/pads, and avoid working 'dry' whenever possible; use lubricant... Always try to reduce friction.
> 
> (2) - When polishing, nine times out of ten, the marring you see isn't coming from the pad or the abrasives, but from the paint swarf which is being abraded away, building up in the pad and or the carrier oils of the product. You always need to think about how to keep that swarf from reaching a critical point where it can create marring, including frequent pad cleaning, the use of highly lubricated polishes, and or pads capable of isolating high quantities of paint residue.
> 
> (3) - Be careful when selecting pre-wax cleaners. Often these are labeled as 'non-abrasive', but in reality, they rarely are.
> 
> (4) - If you get good results, assume that it's because the product filled until proven otherwise. Always use a well lubricated alcohol prep-product like CarPro Eraser after polishing to help you double-check the quality of your results, and check the paint under multiple light sources; I find that an inexpensive, low-powered LED torch is typically one of the best to check for hazing if good sunlight isn't available.
> 
> (5) - Washing is the most critical stage in maintaining a car with soft paint; always use the softest, highest-quality wash media/drying towels, and think about the dirt on the paint... Ask yourself things like "How am I going to get that bit of tree bark off the car without it rubbing up against the paint?", and "How am I going to get this road salt off without having to agitate it and risk marring the finish?". Rather than use elbow-grease to remove insect splatters, or a stubborn bit of dirt/tar, use the proper cleaner and let the chemical do the work for you.
> 
> (6) - Never attempt to detail your car when you are feeling hurried, stressed, or do not feel capable of tackling problems which might arise. Marring is always a break of concentration away on sensitive finishes, and without a cool, relaxed head, it can easily turn a wonderful day detailing into a nightmarish one. Grab a beer, take your time, and the results will pay off. Knowing your own limits, and when to quit for the day is often one of your most important skills in detailing.
> 
> (7) - Finally, keep it simple. The more steps there are, the more opportunities you have to introduce marring. It also makes detailing easier, and more relaxing, as you aren't trying to cram too much into your day.
> 
> Hopefully this helps... These are just my experiences maintaining soft paint. If you have anymore questions, keep them coming!
> 
> - Steampunk


Very informative as always.

I've taken steps to ensure I don't damage the car when cleaning it. I invested in a hand help foam gun, soft plushy cloths and a gentle hose pipe. As backup, I have a soft microfibre mitt, but I try to touch the car as least as possible, no matter how tempting. 

Not sure if you'd know, but is it safe to use a DA on parts of a panel that have been treated with Chipex?
http://www.chipex.co.uk/

Thank you very much. I'm feeling much better about correcting the car bodywork. Whoever had this car before have really not understood the importance of a car's paint work.


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## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> Very informative as always.
> 
> I've taken steps to ensure I don't damage the car when cleaning it. I invested in a hand help foam gun, soft plushy cloths and a gentle hose pipe. As backup, I have a soft microfibre mitt, but I try to touch the car as least as possible, no matter how tempting.
> 
> Not sure if you'd know, but is it safe to use a DA on parts of a panel that have been treated with Chipex?
> http://www.chipex.co.uk/
> 
> Thank you very much. I'm feeling much better about correcting the car bodywork. Whoever had this car before have really not understood the importance of a car's paint work.


It should be fine to polish any area treated with touch-up paints, but you will want to be careful with strong alkaline cleaners and solvents around your chip repairs; the paints used for this are not as durable as the surrounding urethane clearcoat.

For me, natural lambswool or merino wool wash mitts are the gentlest on soft paint; even my best MF mitt is not quite as gentle. Also, my Microfiber Madness towels are something which I consider to be my best detailing investment for working on sensitive finishes. I have gone through many microfibers in my time detailing; nothing comes close to the quality of these towels from Germany. I would consider these purchases in the future; they will help you on soft paint.

Hopefully this helps... As always, if you have anymore questiions, never fear to ask. :thumb:

- Steampunk


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> It should be fine to polish any area treated with touch-up paints, but you will want to be careful with strong alkaline cleaners and solvents around your chip repairs; the paints used for this are not as durable as the surrounding urethane clearcoat.
> 
> For me, natural lambswool or merino wool wash mitts are the gentlest on soft paint; even my best MF mitt is not quite as gentle. Also, my Microfiber Madness towels are something which I consider to be my best detailing investment for working on sensitive finishes. I have gone through many microfibers in my time detailing; nothing comes close to the quality of these towels from Germany. I would consider these purchases in the future; they will help you on soft paint.
> 
> Hopefully this helps... As always, if you have anymore questiions, never fear to ask. :thumb:
> 
> - Steampunk


Hello,

Yes I believe I've heard of those towels. I will strongly consider them. I may also discard my current mitt for a natural lambs wool mitt.

I'm in a bit of a predicament with the front bumper. There are several stone chips caused by the previous owner. Many of which are small and have mostly gone past the primer (I believe). The Chipex kit gives limited results. It takes a few days just to treat a handful of chips with just barely satisfactory results. Other than a re-spray, what would you recommend?

The bumper looks a little like this one here:










Thank you.


----------



## Steampunk

Okay... Topical stone chip treatment is typically done by first cleaning and pre-treating the surface to ensure the repair will bond, and then trying to build it back up with a thickened cellulose or acrylic lacquer paint (This is sometimes single stage, or basecoat/clearcoat style.) until the dried paint has formed a blob slightly proud of the surface. Afterwards, the blob is sanded down with very fine wet/dry sandpaper or shaved down with a razor, and then the resulting marks are polished out so that the finished result is level with the surrounding paint.

If there are a lot of deep stone chips, this can mean multiple coats of paint with adequate drying time in between, which is immensely time consuming. It also requires the touch-up paint to be mixed as a perfect match, and with metallics, the flake in the touch-up paint doesn't always lay the same when applied with a touch up brush as the basecoat did when sprayed on in the factory. This means, that the repair can be obvious.

There is a rather novel blending solution explained by Russel @ Reflectology which can help during the final stages of chip repair to blend in the new finish with the old, and also simultaneously treat light road rash: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=217520. However, it is a more advanced technique, and is not something which I would advise a new detailer without paint experience like what Russel has to attempt...

Also, because the touch-up paint material is not the same material that was applied in the factory (Acrylic-urethane, in most cases; a very durable, but very hazardous paint type, unforgiving of consumers.), the repairs will not resist fading, or detailing chemicals as well as the surrounding paint. This is a downside of consumer touch-ups.

The ideal solution is a front-end respray; if you don't want to ever get a second respray, you will then want to invest in a well installed, high-quality clear film on the front of the car. Xpel makes some of the better wrap material I have seen... This is an expensive option, however, and if you do not wish/cannot take it, you will need simply to put in the time and live with the compromises I listed above. If ChipX does not have enough solids content to successfully build up the stone chips, you will want to investigate other brands of touch up paint.

Hopefully this helps... If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask. 

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Just an update: I'm making a few lists of supplies I need and I should be polishing the car within the next 2 weeks.


----------



## BradleyW

I hear that S40 gives great Flake Pop. May I ask what that is? Is it the glitter effect you see on some cars? If so, does the S40 "add" the flake pop to the car or does the flake pop have to already exist within the paint?

Thank you.


----------



## Choppy

The flake is already in the paint


----------



## BradleyW

Choppy said:


> The flake is already in the paint


Thank you for the clarification. I'm not a huge fan of flake pop if I'm honest. I prefer a solid colour with deep shine / gloss.


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> I hear that S40 gives great Flake Pop. May I ask what that is? Is it the glitter effect you see on some cars? If so, does the S40 "add" the flake pop to the car or does the flake pop have to already exist within the paint?
> 
> Thank you.


Metallic flake in automotive paint is contained in the basecoat layer, which is then covered by the clearcoat.... All polishing will enhance the flake to some greater or lesser degree as a result of increasing the clarity of the clearcoat. Some polishes can make the flake 'pop' (Sparkle) more than others, due to the reflective/refractive properties they impart to the finish. You can have both depth, and flake pop at the same time; they are not always independent of each other.

If your car has metallic flake, and you wish to detail it, you will get 'flake pop' to some greater or lesser degree. It's actually quite a neat effect, and in the detailing community is something of a sign of achievement, as it means you've enhanced your metallic finish to the max... If you don't like 'flake pop', you need to buy a car with a solid colour paint...



This is 'Flake Pop' (See the little flecks stand out and sparkle? At the same time, the depth, gloss, and wetness are very good. This is with Blackfire Wet Diamond as the LSP.)...

As for Scholl S40 enhancing the flake, it does, but not as much as something like Scholl S30+ or Menzerna SF4000. These latter two give a slightly crisper, more reflective finish, with great clarity. These really enhance the flake. S40 darkens a little more, gives a little more depth, and wetness by comparison.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


----------



## Alex L

Detailing Kingdom have a range specifically for soft clear, might be worth a look.

And please dont listen to Junkman, he categorically denies cars have soft clear coat and gets quite abusive if you prove him otherwise.


----------



## BradleyW

Thank you guys. It is good to have a great detailing community who really know their stuff. I guess the only debate in my mind is, do I go with S30 or S40 compound. I will also check out detailing kingdom. 

Thanks!


----------



## Alex L

BradleyW said:


> Thank you guys. It is good to have a great detailing community who reahttp://detailingkingdom.com/store/index.php/category/dk-next-cut-3-3-500g-detailly know their stuff. I guess the only debate in my mind is, do I go with S30 or S40 compound. I will also check out detailing kingdom.
> 
> Thanks!


They're mainly available this side of the world, but have a look on Facebook for them and Amor detailing iirc use them (again facebook) and to buy it only seems max detail in NZ at the moment.

Its biiled as low dust, long work time and cleans up with water. 1.1 is the heaviest cut and the range can be tailored to more or less cut with their pads too.

Next Cut 3.3 seems to be the one, then just change the pads to achieve the cut/polish/refining http://detailingkingdom.com/store/index.php/category/dk-next-cut-3-3-500g-detail

I havent tried them yet as theres no point having them sat around until I get a new car next year.


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> I guess the only debate in my mind is, do I go with S30 or S40 compound.


That's a tough call... S30+ is the more versatile of the two, due to its extra cut, and leaves a very crisp finish. You can actually tackle some decent defects with it on the right pads, whereas S40 for me is more of an ultra-fine jeweler which I pull out after a more aggressive polish... S30+ isn't quite as oily as S40, so needs a few extra 'taps' of polish on the pad when priming; just a tip if you decide to go this direction. :buffer:

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> That's a tough call... S30+ is the more versatile of the two, due to its extra cut, and leaves a very crisp finish. You can actually tackle some decent defects with it on the right pads, whereas S40 for me is more of an ultra-fine jeweler which I pull out after a more aggressive polish... S30+ isn't quite as oily as S40, so needs a few extra 'taps' of polish on the pad when priming; just a tip if you decide to go this direction. :buffer:
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> - Steampunk


My bonnet and roof have random scratches in the clear coat from an auto wash I suspect (thanks to the previous owner.....). I guess I could pick up both S30 and S40 just in case I need the extra cut on those panels. My original plan was to pick up M205 and S40 with a white and black Hex Logic Pad to tackle a range of different defects on the soft clear coat. Which combo would you advise, S30/S40 or M205/S40, assuming I don't require M105 for the more serious defects? I guess S30/40 might be a good combo for softer paint.

Thanks dude!


----------



## Steampunk

Do you already have the M105/205, and are just interested in picking up a finishing polish from the Scholl line? If so, S40's the one you're after, as S30+ and M205 overlap in regards to cut... If you're looking to set up a correction package with Scholl, my advice is to get either S40 or S30+ and S17+. Even S30+ or M205 on its own mightn't prove to be enough, so you'll want a good medium-range polish to go with it; Optimum Polish II, Megs Ultimate Compound, Scholl S17+, etc.

The black hex pad in my experience isn't the best with the Scholl polishes; they respond very well to the closed-cell foams, Yellow, White, and Blue, from this range, but on open cell I've never found them to be at their best. The Lake Country Hydro-Tech Range (http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/lake-country-140mm-rotary-ht-pads-cat10.html), and Scholl's own pads are also very nice with these polishes. If I could only pick two types of pads, Scholl's White Spider Sandwich and Orange foams would be top of my list. They aren't cheap, but they're stellar pieces of kit, and more durable than most.

Soft paint has the benefit of being easier to correct with less aggressive pads/polishes, but at the same time, if your car has deeper defects these can still require quite a bit of paint to be removed. You'll want some stronger pads/polishes as backup, and based upon how it sounds, you might end up needing them. Also, remember that you can mix and match polishes and pads; you can use a finishing polish on a cutting pad (S30+ on a yellow Buff & Shine pad is a great correction combo on soft paint.), and a cutting compound on a finishing pad to adjust your level of cut.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


----------



## Rotiform

Why don't you tray Scholl s20 Black

http://www.detailparadise.com.au/showthread.php?12789-Scholl-S20-Black-The-next-Generation-Ultra-Diminishing


----------



## BradleyW

Rotiform said:


> Why don't you tray Scholl s20 Black
> 
> http://www.detailparadise.com.au/showthread.php?12789-Scholl-S20-Black-The-next-Generation-Ultra-Diminishing


I will be sure to check this out. Looks interesting. Thank you!



Steampunk said:


> Do you already have the M105/205, and are just interested in picking up a finishing polish from the Scholl line? If so, S40's the one you're after, as S30+ and M205 overlap in regards to cut... If you're looking to set up a correction package with Scholl, my advice is to get either S40 or S30+ and S17+. Even S30+ or M205 on its own mightn't prove to be enough, so you'll want a good medium-range polish to go with it; Optimum Polish II, Megs Ultimate Compound, Scholl S17+, etc.
> 
> The black hex pad in my experience isn't the best with the Scholl polishes; they respond very well to the closed-cell foams, Yellow, White, and Blue, from this range, but on open cell I've never found them to be at their best. The Lake Country Hydro-Tech Range (http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/lake-country-140mm-rotary-ht-pads-cat10.html), and Scholl's own pads are also very nice with these polishes. If I could only pick two types of pads, Scholl's White Spider Sandwich and Orange foams would be top of my list. They aren't cheap, but they're stellar pieces of kit, and more durable than most.
> 
> Soft paint has the benefit of being easier to correct with less aggressive pads/polishes, but at the same time, if your car has deeper defects these can still require quite a bit of paint to be removed. You'll want some stronger pads/polishes as backup, and based upon how it sounds, you might end up needing them. Also, remember that you can mix and match polishes and pads; you can use a finishing polish on a cutting pad (S30+ on a yellow Buff & Shine pad is a great correction combo on soft paint.), and a cutting compound on a finishing pad to adjust your level of cut.
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> - Steampunk


I currently have no compounds, nor a polisher, as I'm researching all the products available before purchasing. A question if you will; Is it acceptable to correct a panel using S17, followed by a light pass or two of S40 to enhance surface shine. Or would I need to go over the corrected area with S30, followed by S40?

Thank you.


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> I will be sure to check this out. Looks interesting. Thank you!
> 
> I currently have no compounds, nor a polisher, as I'm researching all the products available before purchasing. A question if you will; Is it acceptable to correct a panel using S17, followed by a light pass or two of S40 to enhance surface shine. Or would I need to go over the corrected area with S30, followed by S40?
> 
> Thank you.


S17+ with the right pad/technique will finish, if not ready for waxing/sealant, then very close to it. You can jump straight to S40 no problem, but as Scholl's products are diminishing polishes, they will need more than 1-2 passes to fully refine. They work _way_ faster than Menzerna, mind, but still need to be taken through a full set. Not a downside; just a note... :thumb:

Scholl starts off aggressive, and automatically refines after a certain period of polishing, allowing it to finish very fine for its initial level of cut. Something like Meguiar's or Optimum, being non-diminishing, will give you more control over how long you cut/finish, but do take a bit more skill to fully master. That said, OP-II is still very forgiving....

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> S17+ with the right pad/technique will finish, if not ready for waxing/sealant, then very close to it. You can jump straight to S40 no problem, but as Scholl's products are diminishing polishes, they will need more than 1-2 passes to fully refine. They work _way_ faster than Menzerna, mind, but still need to be taken through a full set. Not a downside; just a note... :thumb:
> 
> Scholl starts off aggressive, and automatically refines after a certain period of polishing, allowing it to finish very fine for its initial level of cut. Something like Meguiar's or Optimum, being non-diminishing, will give you more control over how long you cut/finish, but do take a bit more skill to fully master. That said, OP-II is still very forgiving....
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> - Steampunk


Ahhh yes, of course. I forgot about the diminishing abrasive's polishing factor, once the abrasives have been worked long enough. Any downside to accidental "over-working" of diminishing abrasive compounds?


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> Ahhh yes, of course. I forgot about the diminishing abrasive's polishing factor, once the abrasives have been worked long enough. Any downside to accidental "over-working" of diminishing abrasive compounds?


The penalty for over-working diminishing abrasive polishes is typically a reduction in finish quality, as the lubricant starts to dry and or overload with swarf. That said, Scholl's polishes have WAY more working time in reserve than you'll ever need, so severely over-working them would be hard....

Mastering diminishing abrasive polishes is largely getting a feel for speed and timing. Non-diminishing polishes are not so sensitive to these things, but as they don't start out more aggressive to remove defects or refine automatically to give a perfect finish, they put this part of the process entirely in your hands to figure out. Diminishing polishes simply ask you to practice and be observant, whereas non-diminishing ask more of your understanding. This isn't a pro or con; it's just a difference, and I would pick which one sounds better to you. If you're a good researcher, with decent grasp of mechanics, and a somewhat tentative polishing style, non-diminishing will be very intuitive. If you're a hands-on, let's get dirty kind of learner, diminishing will probably be more your style.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> The penalty for over-working diminishing abrasive polishes is typically a reduction in finish quality, as the lubricant starts to dry and or overload with swarf. That said, Scholl's polishes have WAY more working time in reserve than you'll ever need, so severely over-working them would be hard....
> 
> Mastering diminishing abrasive polishes is largely getting a feel for speed and timing. Non-diminishing polishes are not so sensitive to these things, but as they don't start out more aggressive to remove defects or refine automatically to give a perfect finish, they put this part of the process entirely in your hands to figure out. Diminishing polishes simply ask you to practice and be observant, whereas non-diminishing ask more of your understanding. This isn't a pro or con; it's just a difference, and I would pick which one sounds better to you. If you're a good researcher, with decent grasp of mechanics, and a somewhat tentative polishing style, non-diminishing will be very intuitive. If you're a hands-on, let's get dirty kind of learner, diminishing will probably be more your style.
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> - Steampunk


Thank you for your advice once again.

Can you recommend any waxes or sealants that can last 3 to 4 months and can withstand a weekly wash? I've been recommended the following product.
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/gtechniq-c2-liquid-crystal-v3/prod_1040.html


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> Thank you for your advice once again.
> 
> Can you recommend any waxes or sealants that can last 3 to 4 months and can withstand a weekly wash? I've been recommended the following product.
> http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/gtechniq-c2-liquid-crystal-v3/prod_1040.html


No problem... As for LSP, what would you like: spray, liquid, or paste? Also, how much would you like to spend on said LSP? There are a lot of options...

For spray, CarPro Reload is my preferred product; especially on black. It's always been reliable for me, does a good job of staying clean, is durable within your time frame, and is quite attractive:










The old version could be a little smeary, at times, and required a bit more buffing, but this new version is so far proving to be a little easier.

For liquid, I like Blackfire Wet Diamond All-Finish Paint Protectant; especially when layered. Application is easy with a DA and a soft pad, and buff-off is pretty much as easy as any product can be. Very slick feeling finish, great flake pop, and has decent depth for a polymer sealant:










For paste waxes, there are a lot of options... I like Dodo-Juice, Black Magic Detail, and Bouncer's, to name a few. A sample pot of Dodo-Juice Supernatural Hybrid would be a very affordable way into high-end past waxes, give you more than enough wax coats to last for a year's detailing, and if anything might exceed your durability requirements:










Bouncer's Vanilla Ice would be another could pick, and Stevie @ BMD does some small 50ml pots that - like Dodo - are a great way to try a very high-end wax for not much money. I would post in his section, and ask what he or some of the users of his products would recommend.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

It is great to see the images in order to compare the results, thank you.

What would you recommend to remove any pre-existing waxes or sealants? And what product for removing greases after machine polishing a panel (to check if you've actually removed the swirls)?

Thank you.


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> It is great to see the images in order to compare the results, thank you.
> 
> What would you recommend to remove any pre-existing waxes or sealants? And what product for removing greases after machine polishing a panel (to check if you've actually removed the swirls)?
> 
> Thank you.


Polishing will strip away any protection on the car, and as for removing oils after polishing, I use CarPro Eraser with Microfiber Madness Yellow Fellow 2.0 towels for inspection. That said, there are lots of ways to tackle this part of the process, and everyone has a method they prefer... Some use isopropyl alcohol, and dilute it themselves, some use bodyshop panel wipe, some wash the car with all-purpose-cleaner after polishing, etc. Eraser is just what I like to use... :thumb:

Hopefully this helps... If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask.

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Polishing will strip away any protection on the car, and as for removing oils after polishing, I use CarPro Eraser with Microfiber Madness Yellow Fellow 2.0 towels for inspection. That said, there are lots of ways to tackle this part of the process, and everyone has a method they prefer... Some use isopropyl alcohol, and dilute it themselves, some use bodyshop panel wipe, some wash the car with all-purpose-cleaner after polishing, etc. Eraser is just what I like to use... :thumb:
> 
> Hopefully this helps... If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask.
> 
> - Steampunk


How will I know when it's time to change pad? How do you personally prime your own pads?

Thank you.


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> How will I know when it's time to change pad? How do you personally prime your own pads?
> 
> Thank you.


It'll start to load with spent product, and the polish will start behaving strangely, but you'll want to switch it out to a fresh one before that happens. Also, in between sections, you'll want to clean the pad by running the pad against an old, clean, short-pile microfiber or terry towel.

I typically use 3-4+ pads of each type per vehicle, but if you're detailing it a panel at a time, taking your time and learning as you go (Always the best way when you're starting out!), you could potentially get away with fewer if you can't afford a big stash. It's better to have a few great pads than a bunch of mediocre ones.... You just have to remember that with foam, it needs a few days to dry thoroughly after being cleaned before you can use it again. :thumb:

As for priming, it depends upon the type of polish.

With Scholl, I tap the bottle against the pad to leave little smudges of product, and then work it in with my finger like so:










Afterwards, I use the same technique to add more polish for the next section, but use about 50% less 'taps' of product after the initial priming.

With Meguiar's or Optimum, I apply a big swirl of product to the pad, and work it in so that every square inch is covered in a very thin layer of product. Then, I apply two to four pea-sized blobs of polish per section after that. This is highlighted in the Kevin Brown Method: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4.

With Menzerna and the Dodo-Juice Lime Primes, I use 3-4 pea-sized blobs of polish on the pad per section.

After the pads become loaded, I set them aside, and clean them with All Purpose Cleaner at the end of the day.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Excellent stuff, thanks steampunk!

I will be ordering my equipment tomorrow. I will begin correction on the front bumper for testing purposes. Once I'm satisfied the machine won't damage the surface, I will continue to restore all panels in time.


----------



## BradleyW

Just a quick question, I will be using the DAS 6 (500w) with S40 on a black hex pad first. Should I use speed 1 for priming, then speed 5 for all passes. Or should I use speed 5 and reduce speed by 1 per each pass?

Thank you.


----------



## BradleyW

A follow up question, is it possible to remove RIDS' using a DA on soft clear coat, or is wet sanding the only viable option?

Thank you.


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> Just a quick question, I will be using the DAS 6 (500w) with S40 on a black hex pad first. Should I use speed 1 for priming, then speed 5 for all passes. Or should I use speed 5 and reduce speed by 1 per each pass?
> 
> Thank you.


I would spread at speed 1-1.5, increase to 3-5 (Just enough to keep the backing plate rotating), and increase pressure to about 5-10 lbs. Polish for several passes until you start feeling the product go 'smooth' under the pad, then reduce pressure to machine weight, and continue working the product for a similar nimber of passes to refine. Reduce speed to 1.5-2 for 1-2 more passes, and lift up slightly on the machine to reduce pressure to zero to finish.



BradleyW said:


> A follow up question, is it possible to remove RIDS' using a DA on soft clear coat, or is wet sanding the only viable option?
> 
> Thank you.


You can remove RIDS with a DA, but if you can feel the scratch catch on your fingernail, this is a sign that it is too deep to safely remove with any method.

hope this helps... it sounds like you're pretty close to :buffer: time. :thumb:

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> I would spread at speed 1-1.5, increase to 3-5 (Just enough to keep the backing plate rotating), and increase pressure to about 5-10 lbs. Polish for several passes until you start feeling the product go 'smooth' under the pad, then reduce pressure to machine weight, and continue working the product for a similar nimber of passes to refine. Reduce speed to 1.5-2 for 1-2 more passes, and lift up slightly on the machine to reduce pressure to zero to finish.
> 
> You can remove RIDS with a DA, but if you can feel the scratch catch on your fingernail, this is a sign that it is too deep to safely remove with any method.
> 
> hope this helps... it sounds like you're pretty close to :buffer: time. :thumb:
> 
> - Steampunk


Hello,

Yes, I am very close to polishing time now. Thank you for the advice on which speeds to use and when. 

In relation to the RIDS' on my car, they can't be felt with my nail. No primer visible. However there is one small thing that has me slightly confused. Normally scratches in the clear coat are a "haze white" colour, however these RIDS' appear to be pretty much the same colour as the base colour. What could be the reason behind this, and does it affect my required method of correction?

Thank you steampunk, you are a legend on this forum!


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> Hello,
> 
> Yes, I am very close to polishing time now. Thank you for the advice on which speeds to use and when.
> 
> In relation to the RIDS' on my car, they can't be felt with my nail. No primer visible. However there is one small thing that has me slightly confused. Normally scratches in the clear coat are a "haze white" colour, however these RIDS' appear to be pretty much the same colour as the base colour. What could be the reason behind this, and does it affect my required method of correction?
> 
> Thank you steampunk, you are a legend on this forum!


Clear coat scratches do not always go white in my experience; it depends upon the nature of the defect, and how it reflects/refracts light.

At first, I would just focus on enhancing the finish, and leave the deeper, isolated defects for when you have more hours behind the tool. When you first start out in paintwork correction, your efforts lack the efficiency and control they gain with time and experience. You could probably remove every last defect when you first pick up the tool, but you might have to resort to more aggessive means than you might need later on to do the same job. It's an old axiom, but one makes fewer mistakes when learning taking a series of small steps, rather than one big one.

Also, chasing the last 5-10% of perfection to remove every last RID is typically where you end up removing the most paint. On a daily driver, this is not always advisable, as you may need that extra material later on. You may be able to significantly reduce the visibility of these marks with just light polishing, so before you pull out the big guns I would advise having a first stab at light swirl removal, and then move on from there as needed.

Hopefully this helps... :buffer:

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Clear coat scratches do not always go white in my experience; it depends upon the nature of the defect, and how it reflects/refracts light.
> 
> At first, I would just focus on enhancing the finish, and leave the deeper, isolated defects for when you have more hours behind the tool. When you first start out in paintwork correction, your efforts lack the efficiency and control they gain with time and experience. You could probably remove every last defect when you first pick up the tool, but you might have to resort to more aggessive means than you might need later on to do the same job. It's an old axiom, but one makes fewer mistakes when learning taking a series of small steps, rather than one big one.
> 
> Also, chasing the last 5-10% of perfection to remove every last RID is typically where you end up removing the most paint. On a daily driver, this is not always advisable, as you may need that extra material later on. You may be able to significantly reduce the visibility of these marks with just light polishing, so before you pull out the big guns I would advise having a first stab at light swirl removal, and then move on from there as needed.
> 
> Hopefully this helps... :buffer:
> 
> - Steampunk


Sounds like a good plan. Thank you, for all your help and advice. Hopefully I will be posting some "positive" before and after shots. :thumb:


----------



## BradleyW

Hello,

Just an update: Just received my DAS 6 with pads/polish. I've got to say, this DAS 6 machine spins enormously quick on speed 1. Speed 6 is just insane. Is this normal? Bearing in mind I've never ran a polisher in my hands before.


----------



## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> Hello,
> 
> Just an update: Just received my DAS 6 with pads/polish. I've got to say, this DAS 6 machine spins enormously quick on speed 1. Speed 6 is just insane. Is this normal? Bearing in mind I've never ran a polisher in my hands before.


Yes, this is normal. Enjoy the new machine. :buffer:

- Steampunk


----------



## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Yes, this is normal. Enjoy the new machine. :buffer:
> 
> - Steampunk


Thank you.

I will try and post some before and after pics if I can.


----------



## BradleyW

UPDATE:

Good news. Tried the DA today. Started on the roof of the car. Covered in millions of long scratches. Started with speed 5, S40, Black Hex. Removed the swirls but the scratches remained. Moved to speed 5, S30+, White Hex. 95% of marks removed! Look amazing.

Here is my technique. Speed 5, 4 cross hatch passes - speed 3, 1 cross hatch pass - speed 1, 2 cross hatch passes. Just used the weight of the machine. Had slight transfer of a black colour onto the White Pad. As I say, the paint is soft as hell. 

I've done half the roof. Should be doing the other half in 2 days, followed by a different panel of my choosing. 

massive thank you to all those who helped. I've learned so much from you all. Massive thanks to steampunk for all the help and support! Could not have done this without you folks!

Stay tuned for more updates and images.


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## Steampunk

Big congratulations! Looking forward to seeing pictures and updates... :thumb:

In future, I would try using about 5-10lbs of pressure during your speed 5 stage of the polishing process; you might find that you can remove even more of the marks. This is just the beginning. :buffer:

The real question is, did you have fun? 

- Steampunk

P.S. Just a note: The most likely reason for getting black residue on the pad is because there is some ingrained dirt in the paint. This is normal when polishing vehicles for the first time which haven't been polished before, and has nothing to do with the softness of the paint.


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Big congratulations! Looking forward to seeing pictures and updates... :thumb:
> 
> In future, I would try using about 5-10lbs of pressure during your speed 5 stage of the polishing process; you might find that you can remove even more of the marks. This is just the beginning. :buffer:
> 
> The real question is, did you have fun?
> 
> - Steampunk
> 
> P.S. Just a note: The most likely reason for getting black residue on the pad is because there is some ingrained dirt in the paint. This is normal when polishing vehicles for the first time which haven't been polished before, and has nothing to do with the softness of the paint.


Hey bud!

Really enjoyed it. Can't wait to get the rest of those random deep scratches out of the panel I'm currently working on. I can't even begin to describe how many long straight scratches were present under a strong light. The difference is night and day after polishing.

Well, I'm glad to hear the black stuff might be dirt/residue. 

Thank you for all your support. The info you gave me instilled the confidence I needed to tackle this car's bodywork. :thumb:

As I say, I will try and grab some images. Sadly my current camera has poor macro and black ain't the easiest colour to photograph up close. :lol:

Stay tuned for more updates! Thanks once again my friend.

Edit: A quick shot of my detailing equipment set-up.


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## BradleyW

UPDATE (15/06/2015):

I've been correcting the main car for a few days with the machine already. Not the best image quality, but here is a quick before and after!

Before:


















After:









Managed to get pretty much all the random deep scratches, swirls and orange peel out of the paint. :buffer:

Up close under very strong false light, I have tiny dots here and there in the clear coat which won't seem to correct. I did not cause them, because they are present on uncorrected panels. Only on the roof and bonnet. So small I can't even get a picture of them. Much be a mm in diameter and are positioned at random.


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## Steampunk

Congratulations! It looks like you did a good job... :thumb:

It looks like you're using 4" pads from the photo, unless you've got some larger pads and backing plates lurking somewhere out of shot? If so, this might explain some of your problems with vibration; DA's are not typically very steady with smaller pads like this, especially when they're also fairly tall like the Hex-Logics. 5.5" pads on 5" backing plates are typically better balanced on these types of machines, especially when they're low-profile and or fairly lightweight like the Lake Country Hydro-Tech 'Rotary' pads. 

- Steampunk


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Congratulations! It looks like you did a good job... :thumb:
> 
> It looks like you're using 4" pads from the photo, unless you've got some larger pads and backing plates lurking somewhere out of shot? If so, this might explain some of your problems with vibration; DA's are not typically very steady with smaller pads like this, especially when they're also fairly tall like the Hex-Logics. 5.5" pads on 5" backing plates are typically better balanced on these types of machines, especially when they're low-profile and or fairly lightweight like the Lake Country Hydro-Tech 'Rotary' pads.
> 
> - Steampunk


I've ordered some larger pads and they should be with me tomorrow. 

What's your take on the tiny dots I described? They are definitely in the clear coat. No larger than a mm in diameter. As small as a tiny spec of dust. I assume these "dots" are deeper than the scratches since they are not going away when I polish. Only present on the roof and bonnet. Looks like something has jabbed or pierced the surface.


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## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> I've ordered some larger pads and they should be with me tomorrow.
> 
> What's your take on the tiny dots I described? They are definitely in the clear coat. No larger than a mm in diameter. As small as a tiny spec of dust. I assume these "dots" are deeper than the scratches since they are not going away when I polish. Only present on the roof and bonnet. Looks like something has jabbed or pierced the surface.


Typically this effect is called 'road rash', and tends to be heavier on surfaces exposed to the airstream. Basically, it's a type of micro-chipping from driving at speed through the tiny cloud of grit kicked up by vehicles up ahead, and is very difficult to remove. I wouldn't worry about it too much. Typically it's heaviest on bonnets, front bumpers, the leading edges of roofs, wings, mirrors, and anything that falls in the slipstream of vehicles up ahead.

On occasion, I have seen a similar effect on cars that I suspected to be a precursor to more extensive UV-damage due to how even the coverage was on horizontal surfaces (Even the bootlid, which is typically more protected from road rash.), but this was all on somewhat older paints that have spend a lot of time in the sun. It's not the norm.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Typically this effect is called 'road rash', and tends to be heavier on surfaces exposed to the airstream. Basically, it's a type of micro-chipping from driving at speed through the tiny cloud of grit kicked up by vehicles up ahead, and is very difficult to remove. I wouldn't worry about it too much. Typically it's heaviest on bonnets, front bumpers, the leading edges of roofs, wings, mirrors, and anything that falls in the slipstream of vehicles up ahead.
> 
> On occasion, I have seen a similar effect on cars that I suspected to be a precursor to more extensive UV-damage due to how even the coverage was on horizontal surfaces (Even the bootlid, which is typically more protected from road rash.), but this was all on somewhat older paints that have spend a lot of time in the sun. It's not the norm.
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> - Steampunk


I suspect it is just a case of road rash based on what you've said. Luckily you can't see it unless you are 5cm away from it under a strong light. I've also got a small chip on the roof of the car. Gone down to the primer!

I was thinking, could I delicately fill it with some MG touch up paint, then lightly polish over it to even the paint out? I really want to avoid sanding or cutting.

Here is the MG paint system:
http://www.ukmgparts.com/product/14mg6-paint-pencil/paint-pencil-black-pbb-10166904

It looks like acrylic based paint with a clear coat spray.

Thanks buddy! :car:


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## Steampunk

Light polishing, nor even compounding will truly level a blob of paint which is proud of the surface. You'll need to sand it, although for just a little spot (I would spray the clear into a little disposable cup, or clean jar, and then apply it with a brush to avoid having to later clean up and blend the overspray.), your efforts need not be massive.

There are special little sanding rosettes available for just such applications: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-accessories/wet-sanding/scholl-concepts-daisies-25-pack/prod_1073.html, available in several grits for not much money. Get a progression of them, ending in P5000, along with the associated sanding block (http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-accessories/wet-sanding/scholl-concepts-sanding-bloc-kit/prod_1072.html), and these will cover your chip-repair needs for the foreseeable future.

All you are attempting to do is bring the blob of touch-up paint down to a level with the surrounding material. With care, this does not have to be an overly dangerous or difficult task, providing you stop aggressive sanding and start fine sanding just prior to actually bringing the defect to a level and hitting the surrounding clear. As long as you end with a high grit, the marks should not be difficult to remove providing you have erased all of the proceeding low-grit marks. You will still need at least a medium polish like S20 Blue or S17+, and a more aggressive pad like a 4" Yellow Hex-Logic spot pad, but these will be handy to have in your collection anyway.

The alternative is to use a 'run-razor'. This is a modified safety razor blade that you use to actually scrape and shave the excess paint down, but the risk of deeply gouging the finish is higher.

If you are uncomfortable with the above process right now, I would leave the chip repair for the moment, and wait until your paintwork correction skills and confidence grows until you are. The chips will wait for you until you're ready. You can also practice on something else; put a blob of paint on any scrap painted surface (Scrap panel, spray painted baking tray, anything...), and practice sanding it level and polishing out the scratch pattern without overly disrupting the surrounding finish.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Light polishing, nor even compounding will truly level a blob of paint which is proud of the surface. You'll need to sand it, although for just a little spot (I would spray the clear into a little disposable cup, or clean jar, and then apply it with a brush to avoid having to later clean up and blend the overspray.), your efforts need not be massive.
> 
> There are special little sanding rosettes available for just such applications: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-accessories/wet-sanding/scholl-concepts-daisies-25-pack/prod_1073.html, available in several grits for not much money. Get a progression of them, ending in P5000, along with the associated sanding block (http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-accessories/wet-sanding/scholl-concepts-sanding-bloc-kit/prod_1072.html), and these will cover your chip-repair needs for the foreseeable future.
> 
> All you are attempting to do is bring the blob of touch-up paint down to a level with the surrounding material. With care, this does not have to be an overly dangerous or difficult task, providing you stop aggressive sanding and start fine sanding just prior to actually bringing the defect to a level and hitting the surrounding clear. As long as you end with a high grit, the marks should not be difficult to remove providing you have erased all of the proceeding low-grit marks. You will still need at least a medium polish like S20 Blue or S17+, and a more aggressive pad like a 4" Yellow Hex-Logic spot pad, but these will be handy to have in your collection anyway.
> 
> The alternative is to use a 'run-razor'. This is a modified safety razor blade that you use to actually scrape and shave the excess paint down, but the risk of deeply gouging the finish is higher.
> 
> If you are uncomfortable with the above process right now, I would leave the chip repair for the moment, and wait until your paintwork correction skills and confidence grows until you are. The chips will wait for you until you're ready. You can also practice on something else; put a blob of paint on any scrap painted surface (Scrap panel, spray painted baking tray, anything...), and practice sanding it level and polishing out the scratch pattern without overly disrupting the surrounding finish.
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> - Steampunk


Thanks very much for this support. I'm going to wait for a little while and concentrate on the body work. When confident, I will tackle an inconspicuous chip.

Just as a side note; How should I clean my hex logic pad after a full day of polishing? I gently cleaned one of my pads in warm water with a drop of dish soap (fairy liquid) and gently rubbed the pad with my fingers. It removed most gunk, but now the pad feels very soft! I "think" it's cutting ability has also diminished. My hex logic black pad now feels slightly tougher in comparison!

Thank you.


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## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> Thanks very much for this support. I'm going to wait for a little while and concentrate on the body work. When confident, I will tackle an inconspicuous chip.
> 
> Just as a side note; How should I clean my hex logic pad after a full day of polishing? I gently cleaned one of my pads in warm water with a drop of dish soap (fairy liquid) and gently rubbed the pad with my fingers. It removed most gunk, but now the pad feels very soft! I "think" it's cutting ability has also diminished. My hex logic black pad now feels slightly tougher in comparison!
> 
> Thank you.


Patience is a virtue... Wait, watch, learn, and practice. This is the foundation of experience. :thumb:

Here's how I clean my pads:

1. Spray with diluted APC to remove polish residue (I personally avoid dish detergents for this application, as they typically don't do as good of a job of removing the polish staining, and also can sometimes include ingredients like skin-moisturizers that you really don't want in your pads.).

2. Work in with hands (Wear nitrile gloves).

3. Rinse under running water, squeezing out detergent until the water coming out of the pad no longer foams.

4. Squeeze out remaining water, and leave to air dry in a clean, well ventilated area for 48-72 hours before storing.

As for why your pads now feel softer, it is normal for polishing pads to soften slightly after their first cleaning, and the perceived 'softness' of the pad has little or nothing to do with its actual aggression. The Hex-Logic White pads are a closed cell foam, and the Hex-Logic Black pads are an open-cell foam, so they will both respond differently after their initial 'break in' period. Foam also always feels softer when immediately wet, and starts to regain some of its initial properties after it dries.

However, if the detergent and whatever it contained was not fully removed from the pads, there is the chance that it is still contained within the foam and is effecting the way it feels to some extent.

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


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## chongo

205 white hex pad will do the job. Just done a raven black 67 mustang and turn amazing.


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Patience is a virtue... Wait, watch, learn, and practice. This is the foundation of experience. :thumb:
> 
> Here's how I clean my pads:
> 
> 1. Spray with diluted APC to remove polish residue (I personally avoid dish detergents for this application, as they typically don't do as good of a job of removing the polish staining, and also can sometimes include ingredients like skin-moisturizers that you really don't want in your pads.).
> 
> 2. Work in with hands (Wear nitrile gloves).
> 
> 3. Rinse under running water, squeezing out detergent until the water coming out of the pad no longer foams.
> 
> 4. Squeeze out remaining water, and leave to air dry in a clean, well ventilated area for 48-72 hours before storing.
> 
> As for why your pads now feel softer, it is normal for polishing pads to soften slightly after their first cleaning, and the perceived 'softness' of the pad has little or nothing to do with its actual aggression. The Hex-Logic White pads are a closed cell foam, and the Hex-Logic Black pads are an open-cell foam, so they will both respond differently after their initial 'break in' period. Foam also always feels softer when immediately wet, and starts to regain some of its initial properties after it dries.
> 
> However, if the detergent and whatever it contained was not fully removed from the pads, there is the chance that it is still contained within the foam and is effecting the way it feels to some extent.
> 
> Hopefully this helps...
> 
> - Steampunk


Hello,

Thank you for the advice on paint touch up repair and how to care for DA pads.

Hopefully I will be continuing work on Saturday. I will try and grab some more photos for you to see.


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## BradleyW

Update (20/06/2015):

Started correcting the bonnet. Contained many random deep scratches. Had to switch to S17 + White Pad to eliminate those isolated marks. I have a slight bit of marring in some places, so when everything is corrected I will be glazing over with S40.


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## BradleyW

Update (25/06/2015):

The car is about 40% done. Still have the doors, bumpers and boot to correct. Here's why it's taking so long. I spend 12 hours a week on the car. I have to use S30 + White Hex Pad. S17 leaves marring and it takes about 5 full sets of passes to remove the marring and fine marks. So, I'm having to correct with S30 which has a low cut, which in turn takes a lot of time too!

The only thing I'm concerned about is how long I should be polishing the S30 product before it is time to remove it for final inspection. The polish seems to look somewhat clear with slight flashing after just 2 passes on speed 5. Work area is typically the size of A4 paper. I remember you saying that the work in time is forgiving for those who overwork it on accident.


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## Steampunk

BradleyW said:


> S17 leaves marring and it takes about 5 full sets of passes to remove the marring and fine marks.
> 
> Every paint is different, and this combo is not usually my first port of call for actually finishing down on a sensitive paint, but still I'm a little surprised that S17+ is leaving that much marring on a white hex. I can get S17+ with a variety of different closed-cell pads nearly LSP ready on my MG, which has incredibly soft and sensitive paint. I would try increasing the number of passes in your sets, and also using a little more pressure (5-10lbs) during the first half to make sure that you're getting the first stage of the abrasives fully broken down before reducing pressure and finishing out. Pad priming, and cleanliness is also very important. Included below is a photo of how I like to prime my pads with Scholl, just in case I haven't already posted it... Also, try reducing the speed to 1, and physically lifting up on the machine so that the pad spins freely and is just barely touching the surface for your final pass. Also, taking more passes at speed 4 rather than less passes at speed 5 may also improve your results. Faster isn't always better.
> 
> With this technique, you should be able to get this combo to finish out with possibly just a slight haze, although - again - every paint is different. If you're doing a 2-step correction, it's typically because there is marring to clean up from your first, more aggressive step, or the second step wouldn't be needed unless you simply felt like trying to enhance the gloss even further. This is normal. Also, if you're only able to work Scholl for 5-passes with a DAS-6 (More powerful machines need less passes.), you're under-working the product, and not tapping into all that it has to offer.
> 
> You shouldn't need to take a bunch of hits with S30+ when S17+ can do the job in one (With maybe a little bit of cleanup with S40 on a finishing pad.), but if you still can't get this to work for you, I would try S30+ on a Yellow Hex rather than the White Hex to see if this can at least reduce the number of hits you need to take with this product on heavier defects. I've used this combo before, and it works well on soft paint.
> 
> The only thing I'm concerned about is how long I should be polishing the S30 product before it is time to remove it for final inspection. The polish seems to look somewhat clear with slight flashing after just 2 passes on speed 5. Work area is typically the size of A4 paper. I remember you saying that the work in time is forgiving for those who overwork it on accident.
> 
> Polishes tends to turn somewhat clear as they are spread, but as with above, technique tweaking and pad priming should help you in this case. If the polish is truly drying out after only 2-passes, something is very wrong...
> 
> Prime the pad as below, spread it on speed 1 over your work area (Very important to get the polish 'settled' before you start working it aggressively. It's like warming the tyres up on a race car.), increase to speed 3-5 (As above, faster isn't always better with soft paint; try taking it slow, and taking more passes.), work with light pressure until you start to feel the friction reduce (It depends upon the pad and the speed, but say 6-8 passes on speed 4 just as a rough example. I let the polish tell me what's going on, so don't really count passes.), reduce pressure and polish for similar number of passes to refine the scratch pattern, then reduce to speed 1, lifting up as I instructed above to finish out for your final pass or two. This should help you.


IMGP3976 by Mole Hill Motors, on Flickr

Tap product out onto pad: Say, 10-15 low-profile dots. S30+ is thinner, and tends to need more dots than the others to prime. Erring on too many dots is preferable to too few.

IMGP3984 by Mole Hill Motors, on Flickr

Spread with gloved finger.

IMGP3999 by Mole Hill Motors, on Flickr

Pad priming complete... Clean pad with old, clean towel after each set, and re-prime with about 2/3 the product initially used (Example: 8 dots instead of 12.).

Hopefully this helps... If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask. :thumb:

- Steampunk


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## BradleyW

Thank you very much for your reply.

Based on your reply, I believe that I'm making the following mistakes:
1) Not enough pressure on the early passes.
2) Not enough passes in general.
3) Not enough passes at a slower rotation speed when finishing.

I things still don't work out, I would just try the S30 + Yellow Hex combo to help reduce overall work time. I must say the bonnet is about 95% corrected. Just have some tiny marks in the clear coat here and there due to paint swarf in my loaded pad (I think). Here is the bonnet in daylight:










Edit:

UPDATE (29/06/2015)

Completed driver door:










Edit 2:

UPDATE (30/06/2015)

Completed driver side of car:










Updated shot of the bonnet/hood:


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## BradleyW

Hi Steampunk.

The car is almost ready. Here is a very quick preview shot:


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## sandyt87

Can I just say what an amazing thread. Bradley those results are stunning and the time and effort you have put in is quite clear to see!

Steampunk sir you are a legend. So patient and knowledgeable and those photos of that MGB.... I helped a guy build one a long time ago (MGB GT but not a v8 sadly), and I love every line on that car. It just looks right. 

As someone who will very shortly be embarking on a similar journey to bradley I thank you for your time to answer these questions as I'll be using this thread as a reference for my Corsa B. 

All the best 

Alex


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## BradleyW

sandyt87 said:


> Can I just say what an amazing thread. Bradley those results are stunning and the time and effort you have put in is quite clear to see!
> 
> Steampunk sir you are a legend. So patient and knowledgeable and those photos of that MGB.... I helped a guy build one a long time ago (MGB GT but not a v8 sadly), and I love every line on that car. It just looks right.
> 
> As someone who will very shortly be embarking on a similar journey to bradley I thank you for your time to answer these questions as I'll be using this thread as a reference for my Corsa B.
> 
> All the best
> 
> Alex


Hey buddy!

Thank you for your comment

UPDATE (25/07/2015)

After 114 work hours, the car has been restored fully. Here are a few quick shots of the rear. Before, it contained scuffs, scratches, dull paint and massive clear coat damage all round.














































More shots of the whole car coming soon, plus some before and after pics.


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## Steampunk

Excellent results, Bradley! You put in the work, and it shows... Congratulations! :thumb:

- Steampunk


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## Demetrios72

Great work Bradley :thumb:


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## BradleyW

Steampunk said:


> Excellent results, Bradley! You put in the work, and it shows... Congratulations! :thumb:
> 
> - Steampunk





Demetri said:


> Great work Bradley :thumb:


Thank you. I appreciate the feedback.


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## sandyt87

Stunning results! There is no place to hide on a black car but you have an amazing job mate.

Alex


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## Choppy

Looks fantastic, all that hard work has definatly paid off!


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## BradleyW

Thank you so much everyone. I appreciate the help, support and feedback I've received.


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## BradleyW

Final shots of my restoration!

MG 6 Magnette (Black)

Extent of damage: (The damage you see here was present on all sections of the car throughout).


























After restoration:


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## Dada

I am so glad I found this post! I learned so much from you guys! it definitely will help me to accomplish my project of removing scratches, sanding, polishing and applying a sealant.
Great job done by BradleyW and shared knowledge by master Steampunk!
Thanks a lot guys!


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## pk222

Have just ready through the 10 odd pages and so glad I found this post... a bit of advice if I may for 15yr old black Nissan paint (200sx) as this thread seems more relevant .. :buffer:

Think its coming down to the two below and appreciate if people could comment on their experience between the two below (or any others that might be more suitable)
- Scholls S40 (plus S30+ or get a pad with more bite)
- Menzerna PF4500 (plus SF4000 or get a pad with more bite)

Pads: black and blue Hexlogic pads 
Do I need to get other pads for soft paint or will the Hexlogic pads be sufficient?

Currently leaning towards the Sliverline/Ep801 rotary polishers

Am preferring the diminishing abrasive style polishes as feels like less risk on the rotary hence not sure re Megs 205 or Dodo Juice Lime Prime which also seem recommended for soft paints.

The paint has never been corrected and am aiming for just better shine at the moment rather than attempting any serious correction being my first time so going to take it easy most likely

Thanks in advance :wave:


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## BradleyW

pk222 said:


> Have just ready through the 10 odd pages and so glad I found this post... a bit of advice if I may for 15yr old black Nissan paint (200sx) as this thread seems more relevant .. :buffer:
> 
> Think its coming down to the two below and appreciate if people could comment on their experience between the two below (or any others that might be more suitable)
> - Scholls S40 (plus S30+ or get a pad with more bite)
> - Menzerna PF4500 (plus SF4000 or get a pad with more bite)
> 
> Pads: black and blue Hexlogic pads
> Do I need to get other pads for soft paint or will the Hexlogic pads be sufficient?
> 
> Currently leaning towards the Sliverline/Ep801 rotary polishers
> 
> Am preferring the diminishing abrasive style polishes as feels like less risk on the rotary hence not sure re Megs 205 or Dodo Juice Lime Prime which also seem recommended for soft paints.
> 
> The paint has never been corrected and am aiming for just better shine at the moment rather than attempting any serious correction being my first time so going to take it easy most likely
> 
> Thanks in advance :wave:


S17+ with Hex Logic Green for serious defects. 
S30 with Hex Logic White for light to moderate swirls.
S40 with Hex Logic White for light swirls.

Scholl tend to have a more deeper cut when you apply a lot of pressure onto the paint surface. Bear that in mind when using the S17+.
Don't press too hard, you'll stop the pad from orbiting and/or spinning. Draw a mark on the back plate. If the mar is spinning, you are OK. If it's not really spinning, your applying too much pressure.

Remove the polish when it's glazing and slight murky. If you remove too early, it'll feel like you are rubbing half baked wax off the panel. Simpy stop wiping and continue to polish for a pass or two and recheck.

Don't use open cell pads such as Hex Logic Black. The pad can become clogged and cause issues with the correction process in time, so I've heard a few people say. Double check this with Scholl! They claimed it was advice given by Scholl.


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## chongo

BradleyW said:


> S17+ with Hex Logic Green for serious defects.
> S30 with Hex Logic White for light to moderate swirls.
> S40 with Hex Logic White for light swirls.
> 
> Scholl tend to have a more deeper cut when you apply a lot of pressure onto the paint surface. Bear that in mind when using the S17+.
> Don't press too hard, you'll stop the pad from orbiting and/or spinning. Draw a mark on the back plate. If the mar is spinning, you are OK. If it's not really spinning, your applying too much pressure.
> 
> Remove the polish when it's glazing and slight murky. If you remove too early, it'll feel like you are rubbing half baked wax off the panel. Simpy stop wiping and continue to polish for a pass or two and recheck.
> 
> Don't use open cell pads such as Hex Logic Black. The pad can become clogged and cause issues with the correction process in time, so I've heard a few people say. Double check this with Scholl! They claimed it was advice given by Scholl.


Am sure he's sorted it by now mate:thumb:


----------

