# Winterising Gardening Tools



## Stoner (Jun 25, 2010)

All,

I recently moved and invested in some petrol gardening kit (2 stroke leaf blower, 4 stroke mower). Both manuals suggest that I drain the tank fully for the winter and discard any old fuel. Other websites suggest I add a fuel stabiliser to both engines and leave the tanks 3/4 full to prevent water vapour building up in the carbs and engines.

What are your thoughts on either of these options or what do you do each winter to protect any kit that will not be used for a few months?

Cheers,
Steve


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## Derekh929 (Aug 28, 2011)

Honda 4 stroke mower and bandit 2stroke strimmer, both in wooden shed , no winter prep strimmer 15yr+ and Honda a good few years. I do service every second year oil filer and plug if needed.
Yes you could get condensation in fuel and cause problems and draining fuel may well be prudent, I have had water in fuel and it isn't a good mix for carburettors that's for sure.
I suppose you could put a cloth sack or the likes round the engine something that can breath rather than sweat. I usually power wash mine at end of grass cutting season and used to oil the blade and base, but as aluminium know on Honda and blade just gets a sharpen


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## Andy from Sandy (May 6, 2011)

I filled my motorcycle tank to the brim and it then sat for around 2 months.

It was a bit reluctant to start but start it did. Bike has fuel injection.

I didn't use any fuel additive to Sainsbury's unleaded.

For a carburettor I would turn off the petrol supply and let the engine run until it stops. I would fill the tank to the top to expel as much air as possible.

Stabil is the stuff to add I believe to counter the effects of putting ethanol in the petrol.

For steel parts a coat of acf 50 will protect it from going rusty. It will probably protect alloy parts from the dreaded white rot.


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## Sh1ner (May 19, 2012)

My advice would be drain and run until dry and when required again put a small amount of fuel in the system (don't fully fill) and leave for ten to fifteen minutes to allow the seals etc to get accustomed to fuel again. That way there should be no leaks or damaged seals etc. If fuel is left in, the high ethanol content will attack most rubbers. 
Modern petrol deteriorates quickly when left and sucks up moisture like you would not believe, which then finds its way to the lowest point in the system where it then corrodes any metal it is in contact with. Rusty fuel tank bottom and corroded carburettor. Also any limescale in the water will stick to anything it can blocking jets and passages etc. Any petrol with or without two stroke oil can go thick and sticky with varnish and gum sticking to everything it is I contact with. I have never found a problem with diesel or diesel engines over long periods in storage.
Every year and all through the year I get a stream of mowers (with and without rusty decks), chainsaws, strimmers, rotovators, small engine machines etc etc that have had fuel left in them despite being advised to the contrary.
Long life fuel is another way but it is expensive and often means that the pre winter check and overall lubrication is not carried out because the fuel does not get drained.
There will always be exceptions where things do not go wrong and garden equipment appears to thrive on neglect but from what I see they are exceptions not the rule.
It is well worth the effort to look after these things. It takes very little time to drain the fuel, clean and check the item and spray in WD40 or the like. Wrap in a cloth and away you go.


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## camerashy (Feb 9, 2014)

I leave a small amount of petrol in my mower but start it for about 10 minutes every month to keep everything turning over and to ensure I have no problems starting it in March


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## Stoner (Jun 25, 2010)

Thanks to everyone all for the information. I will drain the tanks as suggested and wrap the engines in a couple of old MF to help protect them from the colder days. I have also been advised to remove the spark plug and put a light coating of oil in the barrel to stop rust build up which makes sense.

Thanks all :thumb:


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

never had an issue with it ...top it off with fresh fuel and it will be ok in spring , if leaving them a year + then do something


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## Caledoniandream (Oct 9, 2009)

Most important is to clean your mowers, grass holds moisture and gets very corrosive, wash dry and protect with a regular spray of WD40 or similar.
My Honda equipment has all plastic fuel tanks, never have drained them over 20 years, but filled them up and seal the fuel cap so it doesn’t breath.
I seal the exhaust and put the machine in compression stroke, a couple of times during the winter I give the starter a pull (plug disconnected) so crank and cam gets covered in oil, and again put them in the compression stroke so both valves are closed and the valve springs relaxed. 
Make sure that your last mow or when running the carburettor dry, the engine is proper warm. 
I mostimes change the oil, immediately after the season, sharpen and balance the blades, so ready for the new season.


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## Harry_p (Mar 18, 2015)

Do the last cut in October / November whenever the grass is dry enough. 

Put mower in the shed.

Wheel it out again in Feb / march when its dry enough for the first cut. 

Carry on until next year.

Never had an issue in 15 odd years with this mower. First start usually takes a few extra pulls, but nothing too serious.


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## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

Have completely abused garden kit/machines with regularity for years. Never drained them, but I do use fully synthetic 2 stroke oil and we are fortunate to live not far from a Shell garage so the only petrol on the place is Shell V power, they claim it has 7 times the detergents in it as regular pump fuel, looking at the state of the spark plugs in my stuff (2 mowers, strimmer, chainsaw and backpack leaf blower) I have good reason to believe them.

I would definitely pressure wash off the underside of a mower deck if the thing was worth any sort of money, I guess a coating of WD40 or waxol would suffice for anything you didn't want going rusty.

I could go into the garage right now and pull start any of them no sweat. I do change spark plugs every few years when I remember though.

Amazing how many of these no-name B and Q cheapos you can get parts for online for reasonable money.

EDIT: I don't see how draining the fuel out or running them out is going to completely eliminate fuel or residue from contacting the components inside, short of rinsing the thing out with carb cleaner or brake cleaner or similar. You can buy complete carbs oline for near pocket money, nearly not worth bothering with the things.


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