# Filler for Diamond Cut Alloy Wheels?



## efunc (May 22, 2007)

I have a conundrum. My Audi TTRS wheels are powder coated in metallic gun metal with the rim diamond cut to bare metal. The surface is coated in matt lacquer. They were in mint condition, being new, but I've just nicked the edge of one of the rims. Also when I had the rims off last week to clean and wax one of the other ones slipped out of my hand and fell face down on the concrete patio which caused one of the diamond cut surfaces to be damaged through the lacquer. The whole neighborhood heard my scream. Here's the one that I curbed:




























Both problems are small and localised, and I'd like to try to fix them by touching up. I just want to take the eye off it and stop any corrosion. I realise it won't be perfect, but the alternative is to strip down, weld and re-powdercoat and re-cut!

*Solution 1* is just to clean and sand the damaged lacquer and metal from around the scuff and then just spray over with some matt lacquer to stop corrosion. I tried this on the other rim but the scuff/pits still look 'white' under the lacquer. Perhaps it needs more than sanding and actually needs to be polished back to shiny alloy before lacquer is applied?

*Solution 2* is to fill the pits with a colourless epoxy or filler and then flat it back before finishing.

*Solution 3* is to use some sort of metal filler (chemical metal?) in the hope that it'll look a close match to the polished aluminium once sanded back. I'm very dubious about this option because I think all these fillers are generally pretty grey and designed to be painted over 

*Solution 4* is the most tricky but potentially effective smart repair. I'm thinking of filling with actual metal, either with electrical solder, or aluminium rods with a propane burner:






To be honest I think this'll be hard to pull off because the heat of the burner will mean the tyre will have to come off, as will a lot of the lacquer around the damaged area. If I take things to that extent I might as well get a professional refurb. A soldering iron could maybe be employed for a more 'localised' repair but I doubt there's any solder tough enough to use in these scenarios and be possible to make bond and grind back without falling out.

Nothing here is load bearing or structural, it's just a cosmetic repair. Anyone have and suggestions, product names, techniques?

Thanks!


----------



## Puntoboy (Jun 30, 2007)

Interesting as these are similar to my Jag wheels and I'd like to know the same 

I just got one refurbished as I was fed up of seeing the damage.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## alan hanson (May 21, 2008)

Punto boy where in Kett did you take it to be refurbed? my alloys are diamond cut and i need one sorting. Ta


----------



## Puntoboy (Jun 30, 2007)

alan hanson said:


> Punto boy where in Kett did you take it to be refurbed? my alloys are diamond cut and i need one sorting. Ta


Nowhere in Kettering. RS Repairs in Higham Ferrers. £85 a wheel.


----------



## efunc (May 22, 2007)

There's only a couple of shots at refurbing these by diamond cutting because of the lack of profile at the edge. After a few attempts you loose the option of cutting further and these have already been done twice. Now I need to look into some filler instead. Anyone?


----------



## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

efunc said:


> There's only a couple of shots at refurbing these by diamond cutting because of the lack of profile at the edge. After a few attempts you loose the option of cutting further and these have already been done twice. Now I need to look into some filler instead. Anyone?


Unfortunatley there aren't any secret materials or methods to repair the damage.

If there was, then the wheel refurb guys would already be offering the service at about two thirds of the price of a new wheel


----------



## efunc (May 22, 2007)

squiggs said:


> Unfortunatley there aren't any secret materials or methods to repair the damage.
> 
> If there was, then the wheel refurb guys would already be offering the service at about two thirds of the price of a new wheel


They do. They weld the chips by Brazing and re-cut them back. It's completely seamless. However because this damage is so tiny I'm considering something more homegrown. Durafix Aluminum Welding Rods can be melted on with a torch at home http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331796804282, but that's too drastic for this because the wheel would have to be stripped down first and tyre removed (too close to the heated area). I'm thinking of just sanding the lacquer, grinding a tiny bit of metal, polishing it and putting a drop of lacquer on top. However I want to try a blob of suitable filler before the lacquer in case that improves the appearance of the repair. If there's no metal-coloured filler then something clear like superglue might be an option. The idea is to stop the exposed metal corroding and going cloudy, and water seepage under the surrounding lacquer causing it to lift.


----------



## Harry_p (Mar 18, 2015)

I've never seen any sort of polished metal. Chemical metal and others tend to be dark grey with some metal powder mixed in.

I think most lacquers would have a slight tint if used thick enough to fill a scuff.

I have seen crystal clear epoxy resins used for model making which would probably work. Should harden through if dropped in and allowed to set instead of skinning over and sinking back like lacquers can.

Something like this maybe?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231391127587


----------



## efunc (May 22, 2007)

Thanks for that suggestion, very interesting. I don't know if the clarity is crucial to making the repair invisible. Maybe lacquer alone would suffice, or a drop of clear epoxy or glue? I sanded and lacquered a scuff on another rim and that isn't masked at all, it looks white and cloudy instead of silver/metallic. So maybe the key is to first grind and polish the metal and feather the old lacquer around it. Then, once completed, to either use this resin or more lacquer to fill the pits. What I don't know is if this would make the blemish look invisible, or if it'll look like a 'bubble' on the metal or something. Removing the white coarse appearance is the first challenge. Hard to tell without experimenting.


----------



## efunc (May 22, 2007)

Still reading up on this, and even if it's not the exact solution in this particular case it seems worth investigating as it might make these kind of repairs really possible.

These weld rods look suitable and can be melted with a 150w soldering iron:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINIUM-BRAZING-SOLDER-Ultra-low-300c-Ideal-for-repair-and-joining-4-rods/182214570639

This soldering iron looks like it might be worth a shot:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200W-50HZ-Heat-Pencil-Electric-Welding-Soldering-Gun-Solder-Iron-Handle-Tool-/291761921746

All the tools are available to do this kind of thing very cheaply, but I think without some skill I would probably make one almighty mess. Hot metal isn't something to play around with. I guess no one here has played around with these kind of repairs. Anyone know a forum that might be able to advise on this stuff?


----------



## REVERSiN (Sep 28, 2015)

Can't be done Iam sorry, those rods are supposedly aluminum yet melt at 300 degrees which is rubbish. It's tin for electronics is and brass in general. 
Description says it has similar color to aluminum. To melt down aluminum you would need a heat source for 600 which can't be delivered by a soldering iron just may e a propane can. 

For a filler the o up possible way I could think off is Meg welding yet the heat itself can some times damage if done improperly, but it the wheel are messed and you wanna try take them to a Meg welder (someone who know what he's doing) probably a rim weld shop or an engine heads specialist.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk


----------



## efunc (May 22, 2007)

Thanks. Interesting perspective, but these may still be ideal to the task at hand. i.e. filling some pits in the metal to make smooth, nothing structural or load bearing. The description reads:



> "Unlike virtually all other fluxless rods, these have properties very similar to aluminium in colour, hardness, flexibility and tenacity. It is therefore easier to file, thread, polish, machine and repaired areas can even be folded, rolled etc. No risk of brittle fracture or boundary separation as is the case with the harder solders.
> 
> Ideal for filling holes and pitting, cast repairs, shaft, prop and thread building, craft, radiator repairs, modelling etc etc.
> 
> For joining aluminium, efficient strength can be achieved soldering on both sides of the joint, or pre-soldering the surfaces of the joint before assembling and reheating."


Doesn't this make it ideal for cosmetic repairs in alloys? Gotta be more suitable than some epoxy or chemical metal surely?


----------



## REVERSiN (Sep 28, 2015)

Basically for it to join both surface and rod need to be heated so I do t k of what Tool you wanna use for heating that rim area but you need real heat for This to stick. Hope it becomes. Especially hard too like silver or something. 

You can always try and post results for the forum members. 

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk


----------



## efunc (May 22, 2007)

Thanks. It was interesting looking into this stuff, but sadly I think that ebay description was deceptive. As you say, both wheel and rod need to be heated up and the soldering iron isn't going to be enough. The seller has replied:



> The wheel has to be heated sufficiently to melt the rod when it's wiped on it. Heating the rod will not permit bonding. The wheel melts the rod.
> 
> Soldering irons are ideal for small items, but wheels will require a minimum of pure propane. Aluminium disperses very quickly and does need a lot of heat on larger items.


In this case it can't be used as a smart repair, but would need the rim to be fully stripped down, repaired and repainted. I was just looking for a quick local repair. In this case I think I'll be forced to use a resin, epoxy, lacquer or some such. Oh well..


----------



## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

Like I said earlier



squiggs said:


> Unfortunatly there aren't any secret materials or methods to repair the damage.
> 
> If there was, then the wheel refurb guys would already be offering the service at about two thirds of the price of a new wheel


:thumb:


----------



## efunc (May 22, 2007)

See above. There _are_ materials that are perfect for repairing diamond cut wheels. I've listed a few. In my case though I don't want to strip the wheel down and just want a quick local repair. Otherwise brazing is without doubt an excellent solution. I had wheels welded and polished in the past and they are like new.


----------

