# Need a guide/advice on filling and spraying plastic bumper please



## Coupe25 (Feb 11, 2017)

I want to have a go at filling and spraying the rear bumper and fuel cap of my Hyundai Coupe 3.5. Worst comes to worst it ends up looking terrible and I have to pay to have it done anyway but i'd like to have a go myself. So i'm looking for advice on specific products to buy and a good source of paint, one which will be a good colour match. I've never done anything like this and have no access to a DA polisher or anything so strictly by hand.
Here is what i'm dealing with. The scratch was there from the previous owner and it has already been resprayed once in that corner, but they never put clearcoat on it so every time I polish/wax the car some blue comes off on the micofiber. There is also a big chunk in the corner near the edge of the bootlid which I filled with touch up paint a while ago but it still looks bad and could do with filling:


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## dr0800 (Jul 1, 2010)

I know it's an old post but I'll reply giving a basic overview of the process I performed to deal with a scuff on the front bumper of the missus' car. I should point out that though qualified in a STEM subject at Uni, I'm no Pro. Just an enthusiastic amateur.
1) The affected panel has to be clean and degreased
2) Damage feather sanded
3) Plastic/etch primed depending on substrate
4) Filled, sanded, tack wiped
5) Primed
6) Feather sand primer
7) Tack wiped and base coat blended
8) Clear Coat blended
9) Fade out cleared if planning a seamless repair.
I'm assuming you'll be doing a DIY spot repair but the result is all down to the prep. After degreasing the area it should be compounded to try and get the paint back to factory finish PRIOR to sanding. Use the least abrasive paper initially for the damage say 320/400 to remove the sharp edge. Lightly sand an area of 3 inches from damage with P3000- this will be the Fade out clear coat blend area.
Prep wipe and etch prime bare metal/ Plastic prime exposed plastic.
Spot and glazing putty to low spots. Once dry Feather sand with 400/500 ( or manufacturer instruction) Tack wipe and spray 2-3 light coats of primer to achieve hiding according to manufacturer instructions. Once dry feather sand primer with P800. Sand around that with P1000 but stay within the area you have sanded with the P3000. This is important as the P1000 area is your clear coat blend area. You mustn't go beyond that with the base coat application as you'll get a visible line which will be the work of the devil to remove.
Tack/ prep wipe sanded area. Mask all trim and mouldings to protect from overspray but avoid masking on the panel to prevent sharp lines.
Spray light coats of base to achieve hiding. Don't start spraying on the panel. start on a test card to check pattern. The wrist action is like that of a fish tail to try to get a blend. I know some paint manufacturers say medium wet coats but I think that is directed for those using their own equipment. The pros have a saying; out of a gun done. Out of a can ran.
After 30 mins spray light coats of clear over repair and into the fade out clear area.
needless to say you want to keep the repair area small unless you want to spray a whole panel and that really is beyond the scope of a DIY repair.
One option to consider is a Preval sprayer which allows spraying of small quantities of Body matched touch up. It deliver a cone spray of 2inches at 6 inches.
I'm taking it as read you will be taking the necessary precautions when dealing with VOC materials, eyewear, gloves, disposable half mask respirator. HTH.


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