# Correcting two very different cars 308 and XE



## floz (May 8, 2011)

Hi,

Been on here for a while when I first started out but never posted before. I ended up getting into rotations of lease cars so lost my enthusiasm for doing a decent job on a car for it to be handed back a year or so later.

However, I'm now in a silver 308 that I bought outright. Its a 15 plate and the paint isn't the best. A few deep scratches here and there, some through the clear coat, some not. I want to improve this as i'm looking to sell it. Getting it perfect isn't my priority so won't be doing the full works on it but I do want to get ride of some of the blemishes.

I've already got the replacement lined up which is going to be a black 17 plate Jaguar XE. This is the one i'm excited about. Obviously I'll need to do some paint correction on it but for that I'm happy to devote the time and do the full works.

I'm looking at getting a Das-6 pro but given I've got two different cars, I'm really lost as to what pads, compound and other items to get. I've done some searching to see if I can pick up bits here and there. I read the XF thread as its also a black Jag but i'm being thrown a bit by having to do the 308 as well.

Trying to keep costs down. At the minute all I have is a Nilfisk pressure washer and foam lance attachment, Meguiars gold class car wash, some cheap wash mitts and some buckets with grit guards. I'm not precious about the smaller items so if they aren't the best for the job i'm happy to spend a little bit to replace them.

I imagine I need to get some clay, some tar and iron remover and a few other bits but I guess what I really need is recommendations on everything. Does it matter so much if the cars are different, would that just affect the pads/compound to use?

I'll leave it at that or I'll just continue rambling.

Appreciate any advice, thanks in advance!


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## Coachman (Mar 8, 2015)

I’ve read some good stuff about angle wax enigma AIO and the results look amazing. It will cut and offer protection as well.


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

yeah, i'm thinking an AIO is going to be the way to go. Should help cut down costs. I do get confused with the different pads and the combinations with the compounds. Are there some you shouldn't mix like a heavy compound and a finishing pad. I imagine that combo wouldn't do much other than waste heavy compound....


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

Maybe woth 15 mis of your time floz


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

Interesting video but he still left a lot of imperfections on there. He did seem to do it quite quickly too. I wonder if the results would have been better had he worked the compound longer. 

Will you only remove those other imperfections with a 2 stage?


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

floz said:


> Interesting video but he still left a lot of imperfections on there. He did seem to do it quite quickly too. I wonder if the results would have been better had he worked the compound longer.
> 
> Will you only remove those other imperfections with a 2 stage?


I was thinking mainly about the Pug' as you are selling it.
If you check out more videos from Apex Detailing he has gone through a lot of cutting compounds, fininshing polishes on different cars with different machines and pads.


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

Ah ok. I'd be happy with that result on the Pug but there are some deeper bits I need to tackle. I know I can't get the ones past the clear coat out. Would you try and sort clear coat scratches out with a polisher, or would you wet sand it first? Trying to avoid the wet sanding because of the risk of going wrong!


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

I think the best way to approach this is to break all the things I need down into a list. Would appreciate any recommendations. Tried listing the products in order of use.

*Equipment:*
Pressure washer - nilfisk (got)
Foam Lance (got)
Drying towels (got)
Das-6 pro 
3.5" backing plate (do you get different types of backing plate or just different sizes?)
Pads

*Products:*
Snow foam
Tar remover
Iron remover
Clay bar (how do you know what softness to get?)
All in one polish - tempted by scholl s20
Wax

Have I missed anything?


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## Titanium Htail (Mar 24, 2012)

The key is a test spot to show what works as every vehicle is different...

Just make sure it is cutting the same at each panel or adjust accordingly.

John Tht.


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

floz said:


> I think the best way to approach this is to break all the things I need down into a list. Would appreciate any recommendations. Tried listing the products in order of use.
> 
> *Equipment:*
> Pressure washer - nilfisk (got)
> ...


Regarding backing plates I bought a 3", 75mm one so I could use 80mm pads as well as 100mm pads.
Clay bars I use Bilt Hamber soft clay. If the car is really contaminated it will take you longer to do. Saying that this week I bought Carbon Collective's Exfoli Block 2.0 a re-usable clay pad Iv'e only gave it a break in on my front screen as I applied Angelwax H2GO on it. This may be an alternative to clay if you haven't already got some.


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

Should you be picky on the size of a backing plate? I just wonder how much it matters for the pads because as long as the backing covers it, you should be fine. If it’s too big I guess you may struggle with pressure distribution. I’m struggling to decide between 3, 3.5 and 4 inch. Any advice re that? What made you go for a 3?


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

I already had a 3.5” backing plate for my 4” CG spot pads. I wanted some new pads with a bit more cut. I bought the shinemate spot pack from Clean Your Car. This was 75mm plate and 80mm pads. Handy for tighter areas.
Have a look at your car and see where the most restricted areas are to polish and see what size pads you will need.
Obviously there are parts on my car where I could only reach with a nano polisher. Out of my price range for the use it would get.
I got really good results using the 80mm pads by hand behind the door handles and on the lower parts of my fron valance.


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## MBRuss (Apr 29, 2011)

I don't think you can really go wrong with mixing pads and products. Obviously you wouldn't want to use a course pad with a finishing polish, because there wouldn't be any benefit to using the course pad. However, you can use a softer pad with a compound to get scratches out in difficult areas. A finishing pad can flex better because it's softer, so will help it to keep spinning on uneven surfaces. It will just have a bit less cut than if you used a more course pad.

You could also consider microfibre pads, as they cut faster. I use Meguiar's microfibre cutting pads with their microfibre compound. Then finish with Meguiar's M205 and a finishing pad (I personally use Rupes yellow foam pads to finish).

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

Slight update, planning to get the following, unless someone recommends otherwise. 

Snow foam - cyc super snow foam
Tar remover - gyeon q2m
Iron remover - car pro iron x
Clay bar - bh medium (will lube with water/soap)
All in one polish - don’t know! Still tempted by s20. What tends to be better for deeper scratches? I don’t want to cut too hard. 
Wax - is this the best approach or would a sealant be better? But confused by what lsp is best 

Lastly, looking at cyc. Not sure which das package to get. Was thinking the das pro chemical guys complete kit. Is the das 6 v2 any good or does the pro really make a diff?


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

floz said:


> Slight update, planning to get the following, unless someone recommends otherwise.
> 
> Snow foam - cyc super snow foam
> Tar remover - gyeon q2m
> ...


*DAS-6 PRO Dual Action Polisher*
Specifications:

*Orbit Size: 8mm*
Backing Plate Thread Size: 5/16" (same as Porter Cable, G220 and UDM's)
Variable 6 Speed Dial: 2,500 to 6,500rpm
Weight - 2.3kg (approx)
Supplied with two Velcro Backing Plates Size: 125mm ( 5" ) and 150mm (6")
*Fits 5", 6" and 6.5" polsihing pads*

Key Features:

*Heavy Duty 900w Motor*
CE marked / 240v with UK plug
6 Meter Heavy Duty Cable
D-Handle
Canvas Carry Case
Aluminium Gear Housing Cover
CNC Finished Gears
Electricity Feedback Circuit
1 Year UK Manufacturer Warranty

*This machine is balanced for 5",6" pads but I'm sure it will take a smaller backing plate. 3"(75mm) for 3.5"(80mm) pads or 3.5" for 4"(100mm) pads. Check with CYC*

*DAS-6 v2 Dual Action Polisher*
Specifications:

*Orbit Size: 9mm*
Backing Plate Thread Size: 5/16" (same as Porter Cable, G220 and UDM's)
Variable 6 Speed Dial: 2,000 to 6,500rpm
*Weight - 1.75 kg (approx)*
Supplied Velcro Backing Plates Size: 125mm ( 5" ) & 150mm (6")
*Fits 5", 6" and 6.5" polsihing pads*

Key Features:

CE marked / 240v with UK plug
5 Meter Heavy Duty Cable
D-Handle
Canvas Carry Case
Aluminium Gear Housing Cover
CNC Finished Gears
Electricity Feedback Circuit
1 Year UK Manufacturer Warranty

*As above this machine is balanced for 5",6" pads but I'm sure it will take a smaller backing plate. 3"(75mm) for 3.5"(80mm) pads or 3.5" for 4"(100mm) pads. Check with CYC
Less powerful motor may be a disadvantage.*

*DAS-6 PRO Plus - 15mm Dual Action Polisher*

Specifications:

*Orbit Size: 15mm*
Backing Plate Thread Size: 5/16" (same as Porter Cable, G220 and UDM's)
Variable 6 Speed Dial
Speed: 1,800 to 4,800 opm
Weight - 2.3kg (approx)
Supplied with a 125mm(5") & 150mm (6") backing plate
Fits all 5.5" & 6.5" polishing pads

Key Features:

*Heavy Duty 880w Motor*
CE marked / 240v with UK plug
6 Meter Heavy Duty Cable
D-Handle
Canvas Carry Case
Aluminium Gear Housing Cover
CNC Finished Gears
Electricity Feedback Circuit
1 Year UK Manufacturer Warranty

*Longer throw (orbit) on this one so will work more efficient than the other machines. I'm pretty sure this will not take a smaller backing plate than 5"(125mm) so you will be at a disadvantage for tighter areas than the other machines*

If I had to choose one of the machines I would probaby go *DAS-6 PRO Dual Action Polisher*. Looks a good all round machine and can take smaller pads as well.
*But before you purchase any machine I would speak to CYC and ask them about the machines first.*

Pads and polish is another choice. I would say you will need a minimum of 2 pads the same to do a car. So 2 finishing pads, 2 polishing pads and 2 cutting pads. Not that you are going to use them all at once but if you were just to use a finishing polish you would need to use the 2 finishing pads. Do one panel then swap the pads over, this will make sure they don't get too hot.

You would have to purchase the same pads in smaller sizes 4".

Polishes are another minefield :buffer: A medium polish and fine polish are probably all you need. Which is swinging me towards the *DAS-6 PRO - Lake Country Hydro Tech and Menzerna Kit* with an extra set of pads and spot pads. More expense but you need to factor these things in. This would be the minimum setup I think you would need.

*Disclaimer* :thumb: All the above is just my take on things. I'm sure other DW members will chip in. And as I've said have a talk with CYC who will be able to advise you.

Hope this helps a little, H.


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

Really appreciate that GSVHammer. That’s the das 6 I was leaning towards as well. I’ll have a chat with cyc. Could you get away with finishing and cutting pads or do you need all 3. Just thinking if I’m using an all in one. Won’t it just be the one type of pad?


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

floz said:


> Really appreciate that GSVHammer. That's the das 6 I was leaning towards as well. I'll have a chat with cyc. Could you get away with finishing and cutting pads or do you need all 3. Just thinking if I'm using an all in one. Won't it just be the one type of pad?


Using a one step polish (you had mentioned S20 earlier) you vary the cut/finish of that product with the pad choice. If you are not neading a heavy cut go for the polishing and finishing pads.

An all in one polish adds some protection as well so don't confuse a one step polish with an all in one polish.

*One Step type Polish example:*
Scholl S20 Black
Sonax EX04/06

*Alll In One Example*
Scholl Concepts A15+
Menzerna 3-in-1
Scholl Concepts ECOFIX E All In One Cut & Shine
Britemax AIO-Max
Sonax Machine Polish with NPT

There are others but that's just off the top of my head.

As an other example I used Sonax machine polish which is a 3 in 1 type polish on my own car with a polishing pad. It gave the cut required (not too much) and laid down some protection.
I then went over this with Sonax Polymer Netshield to protect my car over winter.

On my wife's car i used Britemax Blackmax (which is a polymer-based ultra fine polishing glaze) by machine with a polishing pad before applying Fusso coat.

So as a start a machine polisher a couple of polishing pads and some Britemax Blackmax would get you started, but don'e expect it to remove lots of swirls. You can then buy other pads/polish as required.

It's a slippery slope though, once you start buying you can't stop. Welcome to detailing :detailer:


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)




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## floz (May 8, 2011)

Haha. It’s the slope that concerns me. 

Thanks for pointing out the difference. I’d assumed they were all one step. I thought the one steps worked by having big particles that broke down as they were used so it went from cut to finishing. Why is it you'd need to use different pads? Is it because the polish can only do so much? Or am I oversimplifying it?

I was hoping to get some light clear coat scratches out. I’m assuming I’d need a heavy cut for that. If that’s the case would you avoid one steps? Bit nervous about cutting too much as I don’t have a ptg to check. Considered getting a cheap one but I’m guessing that’s almost more risky if they’re inaccurate.


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## GSVHammer (Feb 7, 2009)

floz said:


> Haha. It's the slope that concerns me.
> 
> Thanks for pointing out the difference. I'd assumed they were all one step. I thought the one steps worked by having big particles that broke down as they were used so it went from cut to finishing. Why is it you'd need to use different pads? Is it because the polish can only do so much? Or am I oversimplifying it?


Yes you are correct with having bigger particles that break down to fine particles. In order to get the maximum cut from the particles you would use a cutting pad.
If you didn't need as much cut from the same one step, you would use a polishing pad. The initial cut wouldn't be as aggresive due to the lighter cut of the pad but the particles would break down and polish the panel.

So with this type of product you can vary the cut via pad choice. A simple 3 pad system would be:
Cut
Polish
Finish

A system with more pad choice i.e Chemical Guys Hex Pads
Yellow = Heavy Cut
Orange = Medium Cut
Green = Light Cut/ Heavy Polishing
White = Polishing
Blue = Light Polishing
Black = Finishing
Red = Sealants

So you have more control over the cut from the one step polish.

Have a look at this post for pad choices



floz said:


> I was hoping to get some light clear coat scratches out. I'm assuming I'd need a heavy cut for that. If that's the case would you avoid one steps? Bit nervous about cutting too much as I don't have a ptg to check. Considered getting a cheap one but I'm guessing that's almost more risky if they're inaccurate.


I believe you are getting a fairly new car. The clearcoat needs to last a good few years so you want to remove as little as possible.
A heavy compound will remove the most clearcoat in the shortest time, great if the whole car needs it.

A medium polish will remove lighter marks. It will also remove deeper marks but you would have to go over the car several times to get the same effect has a heavy cutting compound.

If you new car has a couple of panels with heavier defects you could always go over the defects again with a medium polish to try and remove them.
It's trying to find the right balance of what you are happy with. The looks and preserving the clearcoat.

*I hope the above makes sense.*

PTG check out Paint thickness gauge DT-156 review, opinion and comments around the £80 mark. Yep I know, moe expense.


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

Right. I think I’m there now (at last!)

Snow foam - cyc super snow foam
Tar remover - gyeon q2m
Iron remover - car pro iron x
Clay bar - bh medium (will lube with water/soap)
Das 6 pro chemical guys complete kit
Collinite 845
I’ve also got some buffing cloths and some nitrite gloves. 

Anything crucial that I’ve missed? Going to try and wing it without a ptg go start with so won’t be doing any big corrections. Only one slight bad area on the 308. Xe should be much better.

Only thing that concerns me is the polish in the kit. No one seems to talk about chemical guys polish. Whereas their pads are highly regarded.


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## Coachman (Mar 8, 2015)

floz said:


> Right. I think I'm there now (at last!)
> 
> Snow foam - cyc super snow foam
> Tar remover - gyeon q2m
> ...


When I first started I got into chemical guys, done get me wrong some of there products are amazing but I do t rate there polishes at all.


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

That is what concerned me. Tim from CYC recommended the Meguiars hex logic kit. Comes with quantum orange and white pads, Meguiars #105 Ultra Cut Compound (M10508) and Meguiars #205 Ultra Finishing Polish (M20508).

Problem there is I only get one of each pad so may struggle getting round a car given you should change the pad per panel.


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## floz (May 8, 2011)

Went with the Meguiars kit in the end. Seems to have enough recommendations. It arrived the other day, far too excited about it. Will have a go on the Peugeot when the weather picks up.


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