# What’s the Best Wax?



## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

_Is there a best? In my opinion- No! _

While it's true many of the chemicals used in the formulation of car care products are the same (or at least very similar) Having used a variety of different products, at various cost points, I can tell one from another and field testing shows that not all have the durability either, some simply outperform others in many categories and react differently when applied to different paint types, paint hardness, colour, or varied paint surface conditions.

Ultimately the best wax or sealant will prove to be the one that best meets its user's objectives. If a product is not working for you experiment until you find one that's suitable for your needs.

Detailing enthusiasts consider shine as only one attribute of a protective wax or sealant. They are equally concerned with; ease of application, resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering. There are many reasons that will influence a choice of car care product; brand loyalty, its popularity, ease of application, aesthetics, to provide protection, its durability.

_Let's examine a few of those reasons_

*Aesthetics-* of a vehicles appearance is usually based upon an emotional reaction, clarity, depth of shine, gloss and a wet-look are all very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis it all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application methodology and the balance is in the 'guy' of the beholder.

*Protection* - a fundamental question first; what does a paint surface need to be protected from?

Damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, tree sap, hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, industrial fallout, ultra violet radiation and other airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. They are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic.

•	Ferrous metal particles produced from the friction of train wheels and rail tracks and brake pad material (semi-metallic, carbon resins, asbestos or ceramics formulations) rubbing against the rotor. The brake material friction as well as metal particles from the rotor or rail tracks disperses tiny particles of black dust, which forms a cohesive bond to the wheels and adheres to localised paint surfaces. Ferrous oxide micro-sized particles when they come into contact with moisture will form rust.

•	Bird excrement comprises; Ammonia and urine as white crystals of uric acid (pH 3.0 - 4.5) a small organic compound, which is produced by the breakdown of protein during digestion, and is excreted by reptiles and birds. Uric acid is also the end product of nitrogen catabolism in birds Ammonia is a mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas; with moisture as a catalyst it becomes Ammonium Hydroxide, which is caustic.

•	Bug Residue and Carcasses - the carcass is very acidic, and if left for any length of time will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent 'clouded' area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces)

•	Calcium - an untimely lawn sprinkler, a springtime shower, or spots that remained after washing, the minerals are white calcium/sodium deposits that are alkaline-based, especially from hard water. If left on the vehicle paint surface they act the same way as acid rain in that they will etch the paint film surface.

•	Contaminants - particles of dirt, grime, carbon emissions from catalytic converters, bird excrement, calcium, tar, oil, hard water deposits, calcium or any pollutant type substance that adheres to your paint surface, sometimes invisible the naked eye.

•	Corrosion (metal oxidation) - Salt water conducts electricity better than fresh water so in areas that use salt on the roads, this process is greatly accelerated. Corrosion (rust) destroys metal by an electro-chemical reaction with water as the catalyst (water + ozone (an oxidizer) moisture + oxygen).

•	Hydrazine - an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, vehicles that park in close proximity to airports or flight-paths are subject to this contaminant. Acid rain (sulphur dioxide plus moisture) and is caused by sulphur from impurities in fossil fuels and nitrogen from the air combining with oxygen to form sulphur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide. These diffuse into the atmosphere and react with water to form sulphuric and nitric acids which are soluble and fall with the rain. Some hydrochloric acid is also formed.

•	Industrial Fallout (IFO) - emissions from power generation, manufacturing plants and combustion engines emit Sulphuric acid from their exhaust stacks etc, vehicular catalytic converters emit carbon compounds that mixed with ozone (an oxidizer) and water becomes Sulphuric acid.

•	Oxidation - UV- A radiation is known to contribute to the chemical modification of exposed paint surfaces resulting in loss of gloss, color change, chalking, flaking and eventually destruction of the paint film

•	Pollen - the yellow fines to coarse powders you see in the air is made up of small sperm cells from blooming plants and is one of the most common allergy triggers. The pollen from trees are the main concern, vehicles get hit with pollen laced trees that include: oak, western red cedar, elm, birch, ash, hickory, polar, sycamore, maple, cypress and walnut (which also leaves an oily residue). Pollen grains of pines, firs, and spruces are winged.

•	UV-A & UV-B radiation - is a paint film surface's greatest enemy, causing more damage than any other airborne contaminant and affecting both the interior and exterior of a vehicle. The light in this spectral range is responsible for photo degradation.

•	Road Salt - Although salt is inert when subjected to freezing (15 - 20.oF ) it's considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow/ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the saline solution(salt/water) will have an adverse effect on the vehicles paint and undercarriage.

When washing the vehicle ensure that all salt is removed to avoid a saline solution remaining on the paint finish. Using a durable protection (Collinite Insulator Wax) will provide a sacrificial and renewable protection to the vehicles paint finish.

•	Rail Dust - small particles of metal (ferrous oxide) created by railroad wheels abrading the metal tracks, these particles become airborne and pollutes paint film surfaces. New cars that are transported by rail are at extra risk. When moisture combines with the metal particles rust is formed, creating small rust spots, allied with acid rain they will cause the metal under the paint system to rust

•	Tree resin (sap) - appears like a dark brown/ rust red colour raised surface mark, some of the most common resinous tree sap types are: White Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Walnut (also secretes an oily residue) Maple, Oak, Popular, and Blue Spruce, none of which are water soluble, the acidic content of the sap will etch the paint surface; causing a concave surface.

Quite a formidable list but all these have a few things in common; they are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.

The other thing they all have in common is that they do not provide protection from acids. Nanotechnology G|Techniq Surface Coatings, Nanolex, Optimum Polymer Technologies, Opti-Coat G'zox Polymer Coatings and PPG CeramiClear™ coatings even though they provide protection from some surface scratches do not protect a paint surface from acidic attack nor do polymer sealants or waxes (organic or synthetic)

The good or at least better news is that an organic wax will provide a sacrificial barrier i.e. it provides (time) limited protection and also absorbs the acid, which can then be wiped off and then renewed. It should be noted that any wax subjected to an acidic attack (bird excrement, etc) must be removed without delay otherwise the paint surface will be compromised.

*Durability *- although you cannot equate a products beading ability to protection and durability, if an applied product continues to `bead' water, one wash after another, then that would prove that whatever it is that is causing high surface tension is not washing off. Note- dust and road soil will also have a negative impact on 'water beading'. This is often mistaken as 'wax / sealant failure

In terms of durability the consensus of opinion is that a nanotechnology coating, followed by a polymer sealant, a synthetic wax and last of all an organic wax, but then it does provide the best sacrificial barrier

•	*Brand loyalty
•	Popularity
•	Ease of application *

Are all personal preferences?

*Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved​*


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## trhland (Sep 22, 2007)

out of all my wax i have if i needed to pick one it would be my swissvax concorso. :thumb:


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

trhland said:


> out of all my wax i have if i needed to pick one it would be my swissvax concorso. :thumb:


Some would then argue, is it worth 10* the price of 476 ?


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## spursfan (Aug 4, 2009)

So, are you saying that the best protection in your mind, is a carnuba Wax?
Interesting article and makes you think that there is no chance of ever protecting our paintwork.
Personally, i have 4 waxes, FK1000p among them and will be using that over winter

kev


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

spursfan said:


> So, are you saying that the best protection in your mind, is a carnuba Wax?
> Interesting article and makes you think that there is no chance of ever protecting our paintwork.
> Personally,* i have 4 waxes, FK1000p among them and will be using that over winter
> *
> kev


What are the other 3 ?


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## slkman (Jun 23, 2009)

What's with the over opinionated doom and gloom threads of late? It makes for pretty depressing reading and after taking it all in I might as well hang up the detailing brushes and pack up the kit bag because against those odds I have no chance.... What is there left in life.... the final of big brother? God no...:doublesho


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## Leodhasach (Sep 15, 2008)

slkman said:


> What's with the over opinionated doom and gloom threads of late? It makes for pretty depressing reading and after taking it all in I might as well hang up the detailing brushes and pack up the kit bag because against those odds I have no chance.... What is there left in life.... the final of big brother? God no...:doublesho


Exactly, what's going on around here?


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

slkman said:


> What's with the over opinionated doom and gloom threads of late? It makes for pretty depressing reading and after taking it all in I might as well hang up the detailing brushes and pack up the kit bag because against those odds I have no chance.... What is there left in life.... the final of big brother? God no...:doublesho


People can only read what folk write, so if you want under opinionated exciting threads, then we all have to create them (including you) :thumb:


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

I haven't read all the thread, but have read the replies, and say i love my waxes. I love the use, the finish, the feeling, the beeding, everything. If people want to be down on waxes thats fine with me, means i can pick them up cheaper in the personal sales section:thumb:


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

stangalang said:


> I haven't read all the thread, but have read the replies, and say i love my waxes. I love the use, the finish, the feeling, the beeding, everything.* If people want to be down on waxes thats fine with me, means i can pick them up cheaper in the personal sales section*:thumb:


Exactly! There are surprising bargains available and often the negative press is unfounded, as the OP summarises, it is all about preferences :thumb:


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## slkman (Jun 23, 2009)

Very true, however most people that come to these forums do so to seek information or ask a question and good people like yourself post answers and opinions to those questions. 

i don't see the point in these overly long scriptures on the impending doom of your paintwork, especially with no point at the end on how to stop it happening...

Plus the author forgot to mention some obvious 'environmental' contaminants including the dreaded stone chip which can be induced by an idiot cutting in front of you or the local council laying road after road of stones/grit. Or the local thug who keys your car randomly for fun. All detrimental to my cars paintwork but I prefer to not think about it because it's something I can do little about.

But if it's informative to people then keep the scriptures coming


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

slkman said:


> Very true, however most people that come to these forums do so to seek information or ask a question and good people like yourself post answers and opinions to those questions.
> 
> i don't see the point in these overly long scriptures on the impending doom of your paintwork, especially with no point at the end on how to stop it happening...
> 
> ...


I suppose when folk realise that if there was one best of anything then the competition would just pack up.
I would like to reduce my collection to just 2 paste waxes, but curiosity will tempt me to try others :thumb:


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## slkman (Jun 23, 2009)

Avanti said:


> I suppose when folk realise that if there was one best of anything then the competition would just pack up.
> I would like to reduce my collection to just 2 paste waxes, but curiosity will tempt me to try others :thumb:


If only it was that simple... 2 waxes?... but there is so much choice and so many still to be tried!... it's like saying i'm going to pick two of my favourite foods and that's all I'm going to ever eat...

I think it's the trying so many products and combinations that makes the fun part of detailing for me personally anyway, surely you'd be bored with only two?


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

slkman said:


> If only it was that simple... 2 waxes?... but there is so much choice and so many still to be tried!... it's like saying i'm going to pick two of my favourite foods and that's all I'm going to ever eat...
> 
> I think it's the trying so many products and combinations that makes the fun part of detailing for me personally anyway, surely you'd be bored with only two?


I would keep a budget wax for everybody else's car and a mid priced one for my own car. The budget wax would cost under a tenner, the wax for my own car would retail around £50-£70 , looks can easily be achieved and durability is evident in many offerings :thumb:


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## slkman (Jun 23, 2009)

Avanti said:


> I would keep a budget wax for everybody else's car and a mid priced one for my own car. The budget wax would cost under a tenner, the wax for my own car would retail around £50-£70 , looks can easily be achieved and durability is evident in many offerings :thumb:


But what could those waxes be?... Well the cheap wax could be collinite as it'll last on there lesser cars but for your own I'd suggest a poll and let everyone else decide


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

slkman said:


> But what could those waxes be?... Well the cheap wax could be collinite as it'll last on there lesser cars but for your own I'd suggest a poll and let everyone else decide


The cheap wax I could beat on price with Simoniz Original, on my own car I'm using Smartwax concours have no fear of it through the winter either, would like to try  the RG55 to see if there is any difference from RG42


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## slkman (Jun 23, 2009)

Avanti said:


> The cheap wax I could beat on price with Simoniz Original, on my own car I'm using Smartwax concours have no fear of it through the winter either, would like to try  the RG55 to see if there is any difference from RG42


Smartwax Concours and RaceGlaze 55 are both waxes on my list to try next! Read lots of good stuff about them but never tried them, those and Vics Concours...

....And thats the problem..... :lol:


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

*OEM Environmental Protection*

The main protection provided for a vehicle is the clear coat; in reality there is not really much there, the clear coat has a thickness of 1.5 - 2.0 Mils (38 - 50 µ). The average human hair is 4 Mils, or 102 µ thick.

*Sacrificial barrier*

The good or at least better news is that an organic wax will provide a sacrificial barrier i.e. it provides (time) limited protection and also absorbs the acid, which can then be wiped off and then renewed. The thickness of an applied coating is all that stands between the environmental contaminants and the paint film surface. This renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ thick. An applied paint protection product is the barrier that provides protection for automotive paintwork besides the clear coat paint.

One of the most effective deterrent to environmental acidic contaminants, once the paint film surface has been decontaminated, is to apply a nanotechnology coating as its formulated to be detergent and heat resistant (up to 500.oF) and then an organic wax over the coating, as this sacrificial barrier will provide protection by providing a limited resistance to acids along with washing the vehicles paint surface and replacing the organic wax on a regular basis.

Vinyl paint wraps are becoming an increasingly popular aftermarket accessory, changing the look of a car as well as preserving the original paint from chips and scratches. Clear film vinyl wrap has many advantages. For one, it acts as a very effective barrier against environmental contaminants, it also offers protection from paint chips, car getting keyed, scrapes and scuffs, etc, as the film protects you from all that and keeps the cars paint original and body repair work-free.

Be cognizant that any sacrificial (wax) paint protection that is subjected to an acidic attack (bird excrement, etc) must be removed without delay, otherwise the paint surface will be compromised, along with washing the vehicles paint surface and replacing the organic wax on a regular basis.


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## slkman (Jun 23, 2009)

TOGWT said:


> The most effective deterrent to environmental acidic contaminants, once the paint film surface has been decontaminated, is to apply a nanotechnology coating base, as its formulated to be detergent and heat resistant (up to 500.oF) and then an organic wax over the coating, and this sacrificial barrier will provide protection by providing a limited resistance to acids along with washing the vehicles paint surface and replacing the organic wax on a regular basis.


In other words, sealant then wax?


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

TOGWT said:


> The most effective deterrent to environmental acidic contaminants, once the paint film surface has been decontaminated, is to apply a nanotechnology coating base, as its formulated to be detergent and heat resistant (up to 500.oF) and then an organic wax over the coating, and this sacrificial barrier will provide protection by providing a limited resistance to acids *along with washing the vehicles paint surface and replacing the organic wax on a regular basis*.


This is the bit though, it's obvious that organic products will naturally decay after a time, and that time I experience is longer than regular amount of high ph washes, not sure I agree with the 500f temperatures though (but I'm not going to try it) :thumb:


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

Avanti said:


> This is the bit though, it's obvious that organic products will naturally decay after a time, and that time I experience is longer than regular amount of high ph washes, not sure I agree with the 500f temperatures though (but I'm not going to try it) :thumb:


The decay of an organic wax is subject to ambient conditions and the amount of contact the surface has with rain, UV radiation and high pH washes.


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

TOGWT said:


> The decay of an organic wax is subject to ambient conditions and the amount of contact the surface has with rain, UV radiation and high pH washes.


Yes, the UV cannot be avoided (hence why summer is more telling on the lsp than winter conditions) 12 weeks can easily be obtained from many paste products, whether using high ph washes or near neutral , the durability remains the same, introduce certain solvents to remove the waxes.
The majority of vehicle owners are not anal about car cleaning and the bodywork of their vehicles still hold out, so the panic is not as often as portrayed in the car cleaning fan club. The wax/lsp is applied as a sacrificial layer so not sure why some panic to then protect the sacrificial layer


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## PugIain (Jun 28, 2006)

To be frank Ill wash and wax my car hopefully before that crap weather comes and then probably only jetwash it after that till the nice weather (or atleast a decent day before) and not worry about it.After all a car is a car is a car,its nice to have a clean one but its a mode of transport before being an ornament to look nice.So i wont be worrying about the wax wearing off.Wax doesnt protect the underneath from the salts applied to the road which is of more importance imo.So ill be regulary rinsing my arches and underneath and if the body is filthy then so be it.
As for what is the best wax,thats upto an individual.I have a pound wax and lots inbetween from 12-32 quid.And I have no real interest in spending anymore.My dodo waxes are nice to use and smell good but do they really have any better protection/durability than the pound one? Not sure.People can argue that Collinite at ONLY £12-13 is a budget wax,but £12-£13 is alot of money to some people.You may argue "money=quality" but not always.I regulary use things that most people would say are crap because they dont have brands like Meguiars or Swissvax on but im plenty happy enough.I also think fashions come into these things.Perfectly good products get forgotten in the melee of new exciting things coming out.I must admit Ive fallen prey to hype,I bought some new waxes and used them for awhile,but for the last few months Ive gone back to using my older cheaper waxes like tec wax and turtle wax high gloss.


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## trhland (Sep 22, 2007)

Avanti said:


> Some would then argue, is it worth 10* the price of 476 ?


i hear what your saying. ive never tryed 476. i manly love the easey on and off and nice durability. i wouldnt say it has a better shine then my souveran wax. just nicer durability and a nice warm glossy look.


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## Avanti (Jan 17, 2006)

trhland said:


> i hear what your saying. ive never tryed 476. i manly love the easey on and off and nice durability. i wouldnt say it has a better shine then my souveran wax. just nicer durability and a nice warm glossy look.


I have not tried 476 either, if I was going to use a colli product it would be 915 or possibly 845, and I agree, if I pay a fair amount for a product , then I want good use out of it, it is only when folks try and abuse their products that is when the realisation comes that 'hold on' this product is not following the negative press I am seeing about the place


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## spursfan (Aug 4, 2009)

Avanti said:


> What are the other 3 ?


476, fk2685 and valntine road and track.
Like them all, cant see the point of using much else especially as its all in the prep beforehand.
think i have seen that quoted quite a few times!!:thumb:

Kev


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## GlynRS2 (Jan 21, 2006)

The ultimate paint protection is to keep your car away from most of the sources of damage by keeping it in a garage and not use it. However, this rather defeats the object of a car as a means of personal transportation! :wall: 
But keeping your car in a garage when not in use will reduce the exposure to harmful agents significantly. Having said that I read somewhere that a significant number of insurance claims come from people damaging their cars getting them in and out of garages that are a bit too tight for the car; so much so that the security advantage is often equalised so you no longer get a discount for "garaged overnight". So if you have a garage that is easy to use, then do so. After all you can't deny the protection offered by bricks, mortar and a roof!

I think one thing that has not been covered in the original post is the ability of regular washing and LSPs to reduce the exposure to the harmful agents but making it more difficult for them to adhere to the paintwork. Most LSPs leave a nice slick surface that make it more difficult for contaminant to bond in the first place and then wash off. Here there is a significant difference between LSPs. My personal experience is that a sealant such as Zaino is better at this than a carnauba wax - the car picks up less road grime over the same period and also dust seems to stick less. The best example of this is an alloy wheel that is sealed with something like G Techniq C5 - as alloy wheels have the most extreme environment of all the painted surfaces on the car. Also we know that some products sheet water better whilst others are good at beading. If you care is dusty of the water has a high mineral content you are better off with sheeting rather than beading.

For me the bottom line is that this is not a doom and gloom thread at all. What it highlights is that paint protection is not all about the LSP. To keep you paint in top condition you need to wash the paintwork regularly and carefully. The LSP will help to reduce damage between washes through a combination of hydrophobic property (sheeting and/or beading), making it more difficult for contaminants to bond and a very thin protective/sacrificial layer. Different LSPs will have different strengths depending on their chemical properties.
I choose LSPs on looks alone. Over time I have learned that extreme durability has the downside that I get bored of just simply washing my car and want to apply something else long before the last application has worn away. If like me you are a keen amateur who likes to keep their own car in the best condition possible then you probably wash your car regularly and are quite happy to occasionally apply a top coat of LSP The time to do so is no real issue, and as long as the car is protected between applications you will be happy. You therefore probably use a different summer LSP that gives you the best looks and a winter LSP that gives you best protection.
If on the other hand you are in detailing as business working on customers cars who don't wash there cars with any great care (or at all) between maintenance visits then durability of finish is going to be much more important.

Sorry for the ramble, but that is just my take on it :thumb:

So favourite waxes, in order of reducing durability: Zymol Vintage, Dodo Supernatural, Pinnacle Souvaran.
Favourite sealants: PB Project Awesome, Zaino Z2 Pro

Favourite finish with no real protection: many hours of careful machine polishing and jeweling followed by Clearkote Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze.


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## Bulkhead (Oct 17, 2007)

Maybe a little perspective is needed here. It's easy to consider all of the possibilities regarding contamination and their effects on paint. However, they are usually present in such minute quantities that they actually pose little risk of damage. The only exception would be bird bombs which, depending on the type of bird, can cause problems. Here in Australia we have problems with dust, sea salt and tree sap that the eucalypts release all the time. However, a quick wash is enough to remove all of this if a half decent protective finish has been applied. Also, just to be pedantic, Uric acid is a breakdown product of purines which, together with pyramidines, make up the nitrogenous bases of DNA and RNA and not protein. It's actually quite good for you as it is a powerful antioxidant although a high concentration can result is crystalisation and gout.


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## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

GlynRS2 said:


> For me the bottom line is that this is not a doom and gloom thread at all.* What it highlights is that paint protection is not all about the LSP. To keep you paint in top condition you need to wash the paintwork regularly and carefully.* The LSP will help to reduce damage between washes through a combination of hydrophobic property (sheeting and/or beading), making it more difficult for contaminants to bond and a very thin protective/sacrificial layer. Different LSPs will have different strengths depending on their chemical properties.


Totally agree with you especially on this point :thumb:


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## -Raven- (Aug 26, 2010)

It's threads like these that I love on detailing forums! Just a pity some must turn it into the usual Wiki post quotes.....

There are a few waxes that indeed do pop up time and time again, which I would love to try. They would have to be Dodo Juice rain forest rub, Dodo Juice hard candy, R222 concours, Collinite 915......

I have got some Chem guys 5050 on the way, that seems to get the nod as well.


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## TOGWT (Oct 26, 2005)

The idea behind the article is not gloom and doom, nor meant to provide adverse comments on wax, but to pose some fundamental questions; _*what does a paint surface need to be protected from, and secondly what provides the most effective form of paint environmental protection? *_

*Conclusion*

The paint protection product of your choice ( polymer, wax, nano coating, vinyl wrap, etc)followed by a sacrificail layer of organic wax. But be e cognizant that any paint surface that is subjected to an acidic attack (bird excrement, etc) the acid residue must be removed without delay otherwise the paint surface will be compromised, along with washing, using the detailer's clay process along with regularly decontaminating the vehicles paint surface and replacing the sacrificial organic wax on a regular basis.


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## RCZ (Aug 13, 2010)

On the recommendation of a motoring journalist I bought some Auto Glym HD Wax, yet chatting to someone who is into detailing at the weekend, he reckons it's just a finishing wax. Is that right? I'd assumed it was giving quality protection.


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## big ben (Aug 25, 2009)

it offers good protection for at least 3 weeks :lol:


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## RCZ (Aug 13, 2010)

stop pullin' me pud!


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## Red_Cloverleaf (Jul 26, 2009)

RCZ said:


> On the recommendation of a motoring journalist I bought some Auto Glym HD Wax, yet chatting to someone who is into detailing at the weekend, he reckons it's just a finishing wax. Is that right? I'd assumed it was giving quality protection.


Maybe waxes are not his specialised subject! :doublesho

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8750


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## RCZ (Aug 13, 2010)

Red_Cloverleaf said:


> Maybe waxes are not his specialised subject! :doublesho
> 
> http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8750


I assume you mean the guy I was talking to at the weekend, not the journalist :thumb:

Looks like it's even rated by some DW members: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=62253


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