# Scholl concepts Polish



## Andymain241 (Feb 11, 2014)

What are people's thoughts on these I am looking for some new polish for a pretty bad swirled vw with a few RDS. I have a Das6 pro with some orange and white hex pads will these work ok on German paint with these polishes?
Many thanks 
Andy


----------



## Andymain241 (Feb 11, 2014)

Sorry should have added I'm looking at s3 gold,s17+ and s40


----------



## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

http://www.schollconcepts.com/en.html


----------



## Tonie (May 26, 2014)

Hi Andy,

They are very good polishes and I like them a lot. You will find some more information here: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=212533. Your selection is okay, but I would invest in more pads. I like to use S17+ on the purple pads and that combo can do a lot. I am not a big fan of hex pads for polishes anyway, but I think they will not work properly with Scholl polishes as they break down very fast. So if your budget allows, get some of their pads as well. If not, buy only S17+ and get some pads.

Good luck


----------



## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

Andymain241 said:


> Sorry should have added I'm looking at s3 gold,s17+ and s40


Works great :thumb:


----------



## Andymain241 (Feb 11, 2014)

The budget can stretch to the pads aswell I'm always happy to try new things out and it's payday soon haha. Thanks for the replies guys always appreciated 
Andy


----------



## Bigoggy (Sep 1, 2014)

Hi mate i used s30 on dads black a5 with a light polish pad. Worked brilliantly took away the swirls and gave a great finish


----------



## Radish293 (Mar 16, 2012)

I use S17 and S40 love them both.


----------



## Yellow Dave (Apr 5, 2011)

I have S3/17/30 with Scholl purple orange and blue pads and although can be very good require a different technique to more traditional compounds like menzerna for example but I haven't quite got it dialled yet to get the best from them

Some users mention about honing your technique to suit but I've never seen anyone say what particularly they change


----------



## dooka (Aug 1, 2006)

Yellow Dave said:


> Some users mention about honing your technique to suit but I've never seen anyone say what particularly they change


100% agree, took me longer than it should of to crack S17 ..

I do love most of the School range, S3, S17 and S30 particularly ..


----------



## Andymain241 (Feb 11, 2014)

Looks like these are the new polishes for me then from what I was reading on the link that Toni put up it seems like a case of short sets due to how quick the polish breaks down but I have no real idea I will just have to play with it unless anyone knows cheers guys
Andy


----------



## Tonie (May 26, 2014)

Yellow Dave said:


> Some users mention about honing your technique to suit but I've never seen anyone say what particularly they change


I may be a little biased as I am quite a newbie and have parked my menzerna polishes very quickly because I found them too dusty. So I did not really have any habits yet. What I think is the main difference between Scholl and Menzerna is that Scholl polishes break down much faster until a certain size. After that, they are like Meguiars polishes. So you should not do a full Zenith point type of approach.

What I found that works for me is that you spread the polish and increase the speed very quickly. So 10 seconds on speed 1 and then speed 3 or 4. I then use quite some pressure to get the most correction and to break down the polish. This is between 40 and 60 seconds and after that I refine it with the same products, but simply without pressure and in a similar time frame. Mostly S17+ on a purple pad (which is a compounding pad!)

What is important is that you initially use very little to start with, not the regular 3-4 blobs, but rather a few taps with the bottle against the pad (Thanks again Steampunk) and once primed you need to add even less product to polish the next section.

Andy, have a look at PolishedBliss. They have a rather comprehensive how to use section for all the Scholl polishes.


----------



## Andymain241 (Feb 11, 2014)

Thanks for the info Toni I'm a newbie myself so this is a good help I will have a look over at polished bliss do some more research sounds like it's what I'm looking for because the car is in a bad way in places where I in the past (prior to learning the errors of my ways thanks to DW) put it through car washes and the local scratch shops so I am looking to get in our workshop and do a full correction 
andy


----------



## chewy_ (Mar 5, 2014)

Andymain241 said:


> Sorry should have added I'm looking at s3 gold,s17+ and s40


I've got S40- lovely polish, easy to work into the paint rubs off no problems no oils smears. It says on the bottle it's intended as an Anti Swirl. I use it to maintain my paintwork every couple of months to remove all the swirls that my car picks up. Have a black car, so the swirls tend to show badly but S40 does a good job for removing those as your final polish before pre-wax cleanse & lsp


----------



## Andymain241 (Feb 11, 2014)

chewy_ said:


> I've got S40- lovely polish, easy to work into the paint rubs off no problems no oils smears. It says on the bottle it's intended as an Anti Swirl. I use it to maintain my paintwork every couple of months to remove all the swirls that my car picks up. Have a black car, so the swirls tend to show badly but S40 does a good job for removing those as your final polish before pre-wax cleanse & lsp


Cheers chewy good to hear it works well on black paint as my car is black aswell and shows up every swirl and scratch 
Andy


----------



## chewy_ (Mar 5, 2014)

Andymain241 said:


> Cheers chewy good to hear it works well on black paint as my car is black aswell and shows up every swirl and scratch
> Andy


Also I forgot to mention the dusting. There's barely any dusting with s40 which imh is one of its best attributes as well as the quick breakdown and the high gloss.

Re: the swirls: I take every measure possible to try and avoid the swirls i.e. Snow foaming, 2 BM, sheepskin mitt, QD as drying aid , and good quality mf drying towel. Etc etc. It seems even with all these protective measures i still get swirls.


----------



## Blackmondie (Mar 13, 2011)

Blow dry to avoid most swirls.

If you are polishing every few months, I wouldn't want to buy the car after you, because you won't have a lot of clear left.

Scholl polishes are great if you indeed like the short work time. Just be carefull you don't dry buff, or you'll be doing more wrong then good


----------



## chewy_ (Mar 5, 2014)

Blackmondie said:


> If you are polishing every few months, I wouldn't want to buy the car after you, because you won't have a lot of clear left.


It's true that I am wearing my clear coat thin. Silly question, but what more can I do to avoid swirls, as they seem to re-appear no matter what?

I don't mind polishing but as you mention it is wearing down the clearcoat even with a finishing polish like s40.

Also, what do you mean by dry buff?


----------



## 67 Mustang (Aug 24, 2013)

chewy_ said:


> It's true that I am wearing my clear coat thin. Silly question, but what more can I do to avoid swirls, as they seem to re-appear no matter what?
> 
> I don't mind polishing but as you mention it is wearing down the clearcoat even with a finishing polish like s40.
> 
> Also, what do you mean by dry buff?


I think if you are careful you take off one or two microns every time you polish, if not careful then many more microns come off.

So it depends on how many microns are on your car to begin with, but the more polishing you do the sooner they'd be reduced. 
If your car has a 70ish Mic. left then you are in danger zone, about 110-20ish safe zone, anything way above that really safe for the time being. 

So let's say going from 120 to 70 by taking 2 microns each time takes 25 polishing sessions, if you polish every three months you'll be in danger zone in six years, if you polish every 6 months then safe for about 12 years. The numbers are an approximation just to give you an idea, but what would happen if on a few occasions you'd need to take more off due to severe defects? Your paint's lifetime would be cut shorter faster.

The thing is to do polishing sparsely and only as needed.

As to your swirls where do they come from? Normal usage, car covers, too many washing drying sessions etc. etc.? Find the roots then you can look for solutions.


----------



## chewy_ (Mar 5, 2014)

67 - thanks for your detailed reply. I wasn't aware about the issue with the microns so that was good to know. I think the root of the problem as you put it mainly comes from drying the car . Also, I was my car once per week (sometimes twice) so I guess that doesn't help. I'm wondering if I should invest in one of those water filter system things where the water dries nicely over the car with no water spots? Not sure what the answer is, as I don't like having a dirty car so tend to wash it weekly. Anyway thanks for your help


----------



## 67 Mustang (Aug 24, 2013)

OK if the drying part seems to be the problem, then I'd suggest:

-to pick up a couple of good drying towels such as Micro Fiber Madness Dry me Crazy or the jr. Version.
-Look @ Metro Blaster sidekick air dryer or similar.

The washing part is not your problem, so long as you are using a good wash mitt like Carpro wool mitt or MFM incredisopnge/mitt or similar, the dryin part is. So you could wash the car as many times as you indicated but then use good & CLEAN wash media.

(Btw did I buy that BMD origins from you a while back on the sales section? )


----------



## chewy_ (Mar 5, 2014)

Thanks for all your tips mate:thumb: Yeah, you most certainly did buy BMD Origins off me. How are you getting on with it? I've got RG Black Label on my car at the moment, but the other car I drive I'm giving a good cleaning up today and going to try out Dodo PH


----------



## chewy_ (Mar 5, 2014)

chewy_ said:


> but the other car I drive I'm giving a good cleaning up today and going to try out Dodo PH


actually,., nah.

I'm going to have some fun with the good mild weather out there today.

Going to try all these un used waxed i've got on different sections of the car.

lusso oro wax
pinnacle signature series II
bouncers vanilla ice
dodo PH & blue velvet (courtesy of ADSCLIOCUP)

A real fun day ahead today.,. Just going to go crazy out there and have some fun with all these waxes.


----------



## Rascal_69 (Sep 20, 2009)

Are wiping down after polishing to see true results?


----------



## chewy_ (Mar 5, 2014)

Sometimes I forget to do that. Last time I did do it though. Thing is, im not saying the swirls are a major eye sore,., and they can easily be covered up with a glaze,., all im saying is they become noticeable (though nothing major) once ive gone over the car with a pre wax cleanser prior to waxing and it does spoil the overall look a bit, and also the placebo affect knowing they are there ruining the 3 dimensional shine


----------



## 67 Mustang (Aug 24, 2013)

Chewy, 
Glad to hear you had fun playing around with your waxes. Whatever gives you the joy, why not?

As to the BMD unfortunately it was damaged in transit with the pot cracking, my cousin never opened the box to check it out until just a few days ago, I'm waiting for him to send me a picture to see if there is any ways to salvage it. 
Oh well, things of life I guess....

One question though, are these in Glass or plastic pots?
Thanks


----------



## chewy_ (Mar 5, 2014)

It was a glass pot.


----------



## 67 Mustang (Aug 24, 2013)

Thanks Chewy, 
I'll wait for the pictures hopefully it can still be salvaged.

Update 3/11
(Just received the picture, it seems that only the lid is broken and the wax is safe.):thumb:


----------



## Tonie (May 26, 2014)

67 Mustang said:


> OK if the drying part seems to be the problem, then I'd suggest:
> 
> -to pick up a couple of good drying towels such as Micro Fiber Madness Dry me Crazy or the jr. Version.
> -Look @ Metro Blaster sidekick air dryer or similar.
> ...


Silly suggestion maybe, but you can also use a drying aid. I like for instance Gyeon Cure for that purpose. Other than that, I feel like this thread is going slightly off topic


----------



## 67 Mustang (Aug 24, 2013)

You are right and I do apologize for my bit.

To bring it back on course:

1-Anyone used the Neo Spider pad as a finishing pad? Any thoughts on the pad used along with finishing polishes other than Scholl's ?

2-I have LC Hydro tech pads as well as CG Hex along with the Scholl Spider sandwich pad. 
How do the Scholl regular pads, purple, blue and orange, compare with these?

Thanks


----------



## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

67 Mustang said:


> You are right and I do apologize for my bit.
> 
> To bring it back on course:
> 
> ...


(1) - I have been using the Scholl Concepts Neo Honey Spider pads for a little while, now, and at the moment they are one of my favorite finishing pads. They're especially nice on tricky, soft paints, as they help to keep the heat down and their slotted pattern controls the swarf very well. Cut level is similar to an LC Crimson HT, maybe just a smidgen higher, but they're cut/balanced brilliantly which gives a very smooth feeling on the panel. This is very nice for those working with a DA. I've found that it works well with the usual contenders aside from Scholl: Menzerna, Meguiar's, etc. Essentially anything that responds well to a dense, closed-cell foam pad...


- Scholl Neo Honey Spider Pad & S30+ post wipedown; no LSP.

(2) - Scholl Orange is maybe just a notch below LC Tangerine HT in the cut scale, with a finish-level similar to LC Crimson HT, and typical Scholl Concepts Fit & Finish. This is my favorite of the Scholl flat pads; very versatile for light enhancement work. The Scholl Blue is similar in cut/finish to the LC Cyan HT, but is formed very differently. The Scholl Purple is a bit of an oddball... It's very porous and coarsely structured, similar to a Meguiar's burgundy at some level. The foam formula cuts very well (Just below the White Spider), but at the expense of a little bit of durability and finish quality compared to some of the other pads in the lineup. For major correction, I still tend to reach for the White Spider Sandwich pads most often out of the Scholl line; it's one of my favorite pads, with a huge cut/finish range...

Hopefully this helps...

- Steampunk


----------



## 67 Mustang (Aug 24, 2013)

Steampunk,

Great in depth info., :thumb:
I'll look into adding a couple of those pads.
Thanks a bunch


----------



## Tonie (May 26, 2014)

No worries, Mustang, just a slight reminder

I don't have the orange spider pads as I did not know what to do with them. My local car care supplier sells three different sizes of them, where two are denoted as NEO finishing and one as a polishing pad. According to them the NEO pads are supposed for NEO polymer protection spray, so I expected that they would have no cut at all, but apparently I am wrong.

Based on the advice by Steampunk, I got myself some sandwich spider pads as well, but I have not used them very much to be honest. I tend to use the purple pads more often, so it is a matter of preference as well. They have indeed a very open structure, but if I am right, it is designed for cooling purposes. Maybe a bit similar to the blue Rupes pads? For me personally, it easily outperforms the Cyan HT pad, but I have only used the 75mm version of that and the HT spot pads are plain simple very much crap. They even look like they are made out of scrap material...


----------

