# Best protection for Diamond cut alloys



## greenstick

Hi

The wheels on my BMW are being replaced next week under warranty due to corrosion around the centre caps.

I (now) understand that diamond cut wheels will eventually suffer from "white worm" but want to ensure that the replacement wheels are as protected as they can be - I will be taking much better care of the replacements.

Any advice gratefully received


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## Lexus-is250

There is no real good solution to them unfortunately apart from getting them powder coated or painted. As there is only a coat of lacquer on the diamond cut part of the wheel they are very easily damaged. 

You can try and get them ceramic coated or use a good sealant to aid protection. 

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## washingitagain

Treat them like bodywork
Don't use anything harsh on them
Use sealants, waxes etc. I've used various (FK1000p, Poorboys, BSD...)
Try to keep on top of keeping them clean (then you won't need anything too strong on them)

Had mine 4 years from new and no sign of worm thankfully.


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## jcooper5083

My Merc wheels have diamond cut faces and are just over three years old. I have had the car for just over a year and have been using poorboys wheel sealant - easy to apply and remove, provides good protection and touch wood - no issues as yet.

I have recently taken the wheels off to clean the arches properly and did a decon, polish and apply Poorboys again and came up lovely so the protection it provides must be doing something - the decon needed was very little.

May not last the longest but certainly worked for me.


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## Crackers

I always remember my uncle saying when he had the lexus wheels on his mr2 that he would wash the wheel every other day, regardless on if he cleaned the whole car or not.
This was back when he didn't have any protection on them or used anything but turtle wax from halfords on the bodywork.

Surprisingly he managed well over 12 months like this and when he did decide to get them refurbished the company were shocked by how long he had kept them mint for.

Ceramic protection is your best bet to help with diamond cut rims however its never going to fully stop the damage that happens from driving day to day.

Cheers

Crackers


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## MDC250

Have had Merc and BMW diamond cut, both have failed. Centres and edges. Both had ceramic coating, regular rinsing and washing with mild shampoos, brushes, clothes etc etc.

Merc did a goodwill replacement for 25% contribution from me as was around 4 years old at the time. BMW were having none of it.

Enjoy them while you can and line up somewhere to powder coat them in due course would be my view.


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## atbalfour

Forget sealants - do it once and do it right and get a ceramic coating on them while fresh.

Unlike some categories there tends to be consensus over the 'best' wheel coating and that's KKD Revolve X. Will last for years but is fiddlier to apply than Gtechniq C5 / Gyeon Rim etc. Those will work well too but won't last as long.


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## sharrkey

Front 2 diamond cut on my wife’s Bmw where replaced under warranty last year and they where ceramic coated, weak point seems to be around the hub cap! 
Less than 6 months on and they are corroding again at the hub caps, thankfully the car is still in warranty so will get them back in for inspection, surprisingly the back alloys haven’t suffered the same corrosion 


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## Andyblue

I used raceglaze nano sealant and it certainly helped to add some protection, but won’t stop the white worm from occurring. 

Had both rear wheels replaced under warranty as they started and there was not a mark on them otherwise... 

All it needs is a slight ping with a stone chip and if you don’t see it / pop a little lacquer over it, then trouble starts - one of the reasons I went for the sealant / applying a wax on them is you get to regularly inspect them very close up... 

As said, around the centre cap is the weak spot, a spoke can get hit by a tiny stone when driving, maybe flicked up from front wheel / passing car - or even from a gritting wagon as I had, but managed to see it / catch it and no issues...


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## pina07

Hi, I would put a coating on them......something like C5. The wheels will only need washing with no chemicals.
Cheers
Pau


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## Itstony

yep, no "Best", should be a "Good" one.
cant go wrong with C5 as per ^^^^^^^^^^^. Might not be the best, but it is well proven.

My tip is always the same, take care of the wheels as you do the panels. Love your wheels too.
Seal, shampoo wash wheels and car the same. After Qd'ing the panels, use that sodden MF and do same with the wheels, barrels and callipers. You wont regret doing it if it's part of your routine.
Maintenance always better than repair :thumb:


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## jcooper5083

pina07 said:


> Hi, I would put a coating on them......something like C5. The wheels will only need washing with no chemicals.
> Cheers
> Pau


Is the 15ml bottle enough for four 19' alloys do you know?


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## pina07

jcooper5083 said:


> Is the 15ml bottle enough for four 19' alloys do you know?


Hi, yes that should be fine. Its a solution so you use it carefully and sparingly but it's very efficient. Just make sure you have done all the decon and wipe down before with a panel prep solution like BH cleanser fluid or erasor. That will help the c5 bond to the alloy and you'll get more protection for longer!. There are others I have used which are just as good but maybe a little more expensive....the likes of Carbon collective and I think it was called Kkd Revolve X (that is awesome). Had on one car 2 yrs n still strong

https://www.iodetail.com/products/kkd-revolve-x-ceramic-wheel-coating

Hope this helps
Paul

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## Starbuck88

In these situations, if its lacquer that is failing...

I want to get the alloys refurbed diamond cut properly on my car, could I ask the refurbers to put on say twice the amount of lacquer they would normally use?

Do you Diamond Cut owners think this would help massively?


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## MDC250

I don’t know for a fact but I suspect it won’t make a difference or a massive difference. It’s a flawed design, looks good but will go. Some will get longer based on how much the car is driven, how it is driven, type of road etc etc but always comes back to you are compromising the integrity for a specific finish.


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## pina07

MDC250 said:


> I don't know for a fact but I suspect it won't make a difference or a massive difference. It's a flawed design, looks good but will go. Some will get longer based on how much the car is driven, how it is driven, type of road etc etc but always comes back to you are compromising the integrity for a specific finish.


I agree. Tbh I don't know if you could trust them to do it anyway!. I've just taken off a set of wheels on a friend's car that have been refurbed and one has overspray and the others have clear coat missing down one side on the inners. You've gotta hope that the body shop mong don't get the job....every body shop has one.
I think with diamond cutt you just have to treat them the best you can from new as the rott is inevitable at some stage as the guys pointed out above.

Appols to albarfour in the reply above I didn't realize he had already mentioned the same products as I did.
Cheers
Paul.

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## Cookies

washingitagain said:


> Treat them like bodywork
> Don't use anything harsh on them
> Use sealants, waxes etc. I've used various (FK1000p, Poorboys, BSD...)
> Try to keep on top of keeping them clean (then you won't need anything too strong on them)
> 
> Had mine 4 years from new and no sign of worm thankfully.


I have a 3 series with 19" 442m diamond cut rims. The car is 4.5 years old, and I've had no bother with white worm since buying it new.

As above, get them ceramic coated, and dont use any harsh chemicals. I've only ever needed to use car shampoo to clean them.

Cheers

Cooks

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## Matt_H

My touareg went back with 40k miles on in 3yrs and wheels were perfect, just keep on top of the maintenance.


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## 66Rob

My Diamond Cut 25yr old MR2 Wheels are pretty good with no white worm. I wash them probably twice a week just with car shampoo, and use various waxes to protect them (will move to ceramic) at the moment they have Bilt Hamber DSW on them. One had a small stone chip so I touched it up with a drop or lacquer and so far so good.

I took my spare set of 1995 MR2 alloys to Lepsons and said I would like them Diamond Cut but was talked out of it by them due to white worm and they do not offer any sort of warrantee with wheels with a Diamond Cut finish.

Someone mentioned putting 2 coats of lacquer on. A friend had his non OE Diamond Cut MR2 alloys diamond cut in the late 90s think by Spit & Polish and they did put extra coats on. I cant comment on how they lasted but for the first 2 years they looked fantastic. 

My Cayman Diamond Cut alloys on the other hand have a few places where it looks like white worm is about to start or has just started, so are past the point where extra protection will help.


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## Starbuck88

Cookies said:


> I have a 3 series with 19" 442m diamond cut rims. The car is 4.5 years old, and I've had no bother with white worm since buying it new.
> 
> As above, get them ceramic coated, and dont use any harsh chemicals. I've only ever needed to use car shampoo to clean them.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Cooks
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


You Sir, are a Diamond Cut above the rest. :lol: Doesn't surprise me yours have stayed blemish free considering the care you put into looking after your cars. Kudos to you my friend.

What did you coat them with?


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## Cookies

Starbuck88 said:


> You Sir, are a Diamond Cut above the rest.  Doesn't surprise me yours have stayed blemish free considering the care you put into looking after your cars. Kudos to you my friend.
> 
> What did you coat them with?


Cheers bud.

I used Nasiol ZR53. Soooooo flippin easy to use, it's unreal.



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## TakDetails

I know everyone is suggesting to get them ceramic coated... is there any waxes/sealants anyone can suggest as I don’t have a garage or I guess I’ll have to choose my dates well and pray it doesn’t rain?


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## TakDetails

Sorry, forgot a few were mentioned :wall:


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## pina07

TakDetails said:


> I know everyone is suggesting to get them ceramic coated... is there any waxes/sealants anyone can suggest as I don't have a garage or I guess I'll have to choose my dates well and pray it doesn't rain?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi, I would probably go for a tough wax/sealant like soft 99 fusso coat or FK 1000p hi temp sealant.
Cheers
Paul

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## MDC250

TakDetails said:


> I know everyone is suggesting to get them ceramic coated... is there any waxes/sealants anyone can suggest as I don't have a garage or I guess I'll have to choose my dates well and pray it doesn't rain?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you bring wheel(s) inside overnight and leave car on jack stand(s)?

You could do all your prep work in advance and then do a wheel or two each day giving plenty of time to cure.


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## Cookies

TakDetails said:


> I know everyone is suggesting to get them ceramic coated... is there any waxes/sealants anyone can suggest as I don't have a garage or I guess I'll have to choose my dates well and pray it doesn't rain?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Have a look at Wowos Crystal Sealant.

Cheers

Cooks

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## Andyblue

Cookies said:


> Cheers bud.
> 
> I used Nasiol ZR53. Soooooo flippin easy to use, it's unreal.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Where did you buy from ?

Does it have a cure time as such or can it be applied to the wheels on the car ?

Cheers


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## Cookies

Andyblue said:


> Where did you buy from ?
> 
> Does it have a cure time as such or can it be applied to the wheels on the car ?
> 
> Cheers


I picked it up the year before last on eBay if I remember correctly (or amazon possibly).The cure time is 48 hours, but I only ever kept the car dry for 24 hours, without any issue whatsoever.

Water repellency is insane!

Reminds me, I need to get another bottle.

Cheers

Cooks

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## TakDetails

MDC250 said:


> Can you bring wheel(s) inside overnight and leave car on jack stand(s)?
> 
> You could do all your prep work in advance and then do a wheel or two each day giving plenty of time to cure.


I could do. Didn't think of it, only thing my drive is not even & slightly on a incline. 
Two wheels at a time can work. I think.

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## TakDetails

Cookies said:


> Have a look at Wowos Crystal Sealant.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Cooks
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Thanks.
I was reading a thread and I think it was the likes of you and Brain1612, who rated it.

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## Lexus-is250

TakDetails said:


> Thanks.
> I was reading a thread and I think it was the likes of you and Brain1612, who rated it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's a much quicker and easier form of protection that doesn't require any cure time. You could take wheels off individually and apply to the whole wheel very quickly if you wanted to or just leave them on the car.

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## TakDetails

Lexus-is250 said:


> It's a much quicker and easier form of protection that doesn't require any cure time. You could take wheels off individually and apply to the whole wheel very quickly if you wanted to or just leave them on the car.
> 
> Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk


I know what I'm leaning to now.
it's easy to apply as well.

Much appreciated all.

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## Cookies

TakDetails said:


> Thanks.
> I was reading a thread and I think it was the likes of you and Brain1612, who rated it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep - that's the very one. There's a new v3 of Crystal Sealant available now, and apparently it's very easily used.

Good luck - dont forget to share a few pics.

Cooks

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## jcooper5083

Cookies said:


> Have a look at Wowos Crystal Sealant.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Cooks
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Just looked up the Wowos Crystal Sealant and looks good value and very easy to use - would be ideal for the wheels and from what I can see it is a spray on, wipe off solution?

I looked on the site but couldnt see the application prep - would I need to strip off the polish and wax I have just applied for this to bond or would it go straight on top after a quick clean?


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## Itstony

*Brian1612* who reviews products has stated recently how impressed he was with Wowo's Crystal sealant for wheels.:thumb:


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## Lexus-is250

jcooper5083 said:


> Just looked up the Wowos Crystal Sealant and looks good value and very easy to use - would be ideal for the wheels and from what I can see it is a spray on, wipe off solution?
> 
> I looked on the site but couldnt see the application prep - would I need to strip off the polish and wax I have just applied for this to bond or would it go straight on top after a quick clean?


It would last longer if applied to bare wheels but it's very strong and bonds to most things, obviously you wouldn't get it's full performance that way. It's very simple spray and wipe product, especially on wheels. On paint it needs a little change of technique but nothing major. Just need to learn the product.

Clean and shiny sell it as well and their delivery is better than direct from Wowo's

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## jcooper5083

Lexus-is250 said:


> It would last longer if applied to bare wheels but it's very strong and bonds to most things, obviously you wouldn't get it's full performance that way. It's very simple spray and wipe product, especially on wheels. On paint it needs a little change of technique but nothing major. Just need to learn the product.
> 
> Clean and shiny sell it as well and their delivery is better than direct from Wowo's
> 
> Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk


Thank you - really appreciate it - rather than a full decon again to strip the current wax I have panel wipe and also some wax stripping shampoo so either of them should be good i guess.


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## James_R

I bought brand new upgrade alloys from Honda for my CR-Z when I had it.

First job once I got it home was take off the wheels, panel wipe and apply a coat of Gtechniq C5.

Leave one corner with the spare on and keep the curing wheel in the garage.
Or just leave it on an axle stand or jack overnight if you can?

Mine stayed mint and I mean MINT, for two years, zero marks on them.
It was 12months before I took them off to give them a thorough clean up and do the backs and all it took was shampoo.

Great idea to top up with C2V3 too every couple of months for how long that takes.


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## SadlyDistracted

Diamond cut wheels, good for industry (re-working/refurbing) and governments (vat/taxes etc) not so good for the owner - but it is a 'choice'. Proper painting - powder coating, not so good for the aforementioned.

Also you don't want sharp edges because they are generally paint/coating weak spots, and of course doesn't that diamond gutting leave nice sharp edges (more failure areas).


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## Derek Mc

Another :thumb: for Crystal Sealant as I have just put V3 on my BMW diamond cut alloys too. It is very easy to use and the V2 lasted for 5 months easily and I only then re-applied as I was bored and wanted to put V3 on,,,

I have worked out that the centre cap is the weak spot as the hard sharp edge is the thin spot for the lacquer also the interference fit of the centre cap abrades, as it slides in and grabs and drags grit along with it. 

I am toying with just running some lacquer around that edge with a brush as it will be invisible to the eye but give much needed protection.


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## Man1c_M0nk3y

just noticed one of my rears has started to go at the edge of the centre cap. barely over a year old and perfect in every other regard. 

Waiting to hear back from the dealer. 

Am I likely to be in luck here I wonder. 

Definitely need to consider some protection myself now.


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## THE CHAMP

powder coat


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## AndyQash

THE CHAMP said:


> powder coat


How true is that


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## fatdazza

lol - just notice this thread as showing as having new posts. Saw the title and thought I would tongue in cheek post "powder coat". Well blow me down, opened it up and someone beat me to it :lol:

How about a competition to see who can post the oldest mint condition diamond cut wheel?


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## blademansw

Diamond cut wheels are a triumph of fashion over function.

Very pretty.

Utter cack for any kind of longevity. Nuke em from orbit I say (as a proud owner of well cared for white worm infested AMG diamond cut alloys)


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## SadlyDistracted

Derek Mc said:


> ...
> 
> I am toying with just running some lacquer around that edge with a brush as it will be invisible to the eye but give much needed protection.


Derek, that's what I have done, 2- 3 coats on a new set last year, using 2k lacquer, not totally sure its a 'fix' though, as i'm sure small areas of white are still sneaking in :-(


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## Cookies

SadlyDistracted said:


> Derek, that's what I have done, 2- 3 coats on a new set last year, using 2k lacquer, not totally sure its a 'fix' though, as i'm sure small areas of white are still sneaking in :-(


Mind if I ask how you did this? Did you need to key the original surface first?

Cheers

Cooks

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## jonnypb

I've got a V40 with 17" Ixion Diamond Tech Black Matt alloys. I've got some Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax for the paint work, work this be used on the Alloys as well, or am I better buying something else such as the Wowo'c Crystal Sealant? Looking for something that's quick and easy to apply!

Thanks


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## SadlyDistracted

Cookies said:


> Mind if I ask how you did this? Did you need to key the original surface first?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Cooks
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Hi Cooks, sorry for the late reply, I'm not getting thread updates.
Certainly, 
I've used 2 prep routes:
a) Ultrafine scotchbrite*, then panel wipe b) just panel wipe.
Then I've made up my 2k lacquer (Novol 540 was what I had to hand and I used ~5-10% fade out thinners, to help the 2k bite in to the original finish). Some I've brushed on, but I've found the best method is to actually dip, face down the badges submerging the edges, then leaving the badges to flash ~10 minutes face up. 
The lacquer runs down/builds up on the edges ;-). You do want a level surface so no running /pooling of the lacquer on a 'lower' side.

Dipped a twice more, same method then just leave to cure face up.

This leaves the edges and badge clips well coated.

Not a paint purist's method but I was aiming to get a thicker lacquer runs around the metal edges of the badges and this has achieved that.

* this does 'satinise' the bright work a little, hence just using panel wipe with a coarse cloth. Although unless you were to really closely look at the satinised ones you would not really notice.


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