# Wheel nut completely mangled.



## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

I'm looking for a bit of advice, hoping someone can help. 

I was fitting some wheel spacers today, all 3 wheels went perfectly... Came to the last wheel and I slipped with wrench, rounding the corners of the nut, tried to get it back off and ended up rounding the nut even more 

So I tried an Irwin set, by hammering onto the nut and cut a long story short it's well and truly mangled the nut, to the point where I feel like there's no way of getting it off. 

Which is what leads me here 😂. Given the circumstances of the lockdown is there anyone else that's been in this situation before, how could I get it off? 

Luckily I don't need to use the car until the lockdown lifts so I have time on my side. 

Thanks!


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## Will_G (Jan 23, 2012)

Sorry can’t help but even the subject title doesn’t cover how mangled that is


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## Caledoniandream (Oct 9, 2009)

That’s proper fubared, you could try to hammer a sockett 1 mm smaller on to it, and see if you could hold pressure onto it.
I used a jack before between the vehicle wheelnut and the wall, with my brace in between so that the sockett can work itself of the nut.
Worked every time.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Wowsers, you've made a cracking job of that! Can't see how you're gonna get that off now without damaging the stud now. Likely need to carefully drill through what's left of the nut and and prize apart. Need to press another stud in I would say.


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## v6quattrogrip (Feb 10, 2015)

Try this









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## mar00 (Jun 24, 2018)

as above try hamering a socket on it and pelenty of penetration fluid,

you can get a kit for designed for locking nut removal with a reverse thread so may be better option but doesn't look like much material left there, 

some heat on it may help or if you have a disk cutter cut a slot in the spacer

if you had the correct size socket on there and that happened I think you'll need heat on it, but looking at that pic it may be just the damage but it doesn't look like the correct nuts were used for that spacer


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## dhali (Mar 12, 2006)

Hammer a 12 point socket on it . Preferably 1 or 2 mm smaller . I've had success using that method before on allen head socket bolts on rear brake caliper carriers . Remember to turn very slowly with as much leverage as possible


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## dhali (Mar 12, 2006)

Just saw the image . Even that may not work as that's truly mangled


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## BrummyPete (Jun 10, 2010)

I had something similar and I had to hammer a flat head screwdriver to break it off, ruined the screwdriver and how I didn't smash up the thread, someone must have been looking down on me that day


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## SteveTDCi (Feb 8, 2006)

you want something like this

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/hand-to...impact-3-8inch-sq-dr-extractor-sockets/f/5980

this

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/impact-drivers/40-pce-impact-driver-set-1%2F2%22-sq.-dr./p/ZT1013176X?utm_source=google&utm_campaign=pla%2B%7C%2BHand%20Tools&utm_medium=pla_css_3&mkwid=hGmKq8qH-dc&pcrid=314494375184&prodid=ZT1013176X&pgrid={groupid}&ptaid=pla-392297737902&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9b6BmtLP6AIVBLTtCh25tAU5EAQYASABEgJD-PD_BwE

and one of these

https://discountsales365.co.uk/prod...MIksKWrtLP6AIVQuDtCh1WnAscEAQYDyABEgKWQfD_BwE

However it would depend on if the stud restricts the extractor going all the way down the stud.

Is the stud part of the spacer or of the car


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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

Start drilling it or you might have to wait until you can get it to someone who can weld onto it(If they can get to it)


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

If none of the above help, as a last resort you may need to get a hammer and a small cold chisel on it and either see if this will budge it by hammering at an angle or try to split what’s left of the nut... 

As I said I’d do this as a last result as it will definitely knacker the nut and potentially the stud... 

Hope you get it off :thumb:


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## Cookeh (Apr 27, 2017)

I'd be using a hammer and chisel to put a slot in the edge and then working it round to loosen. It sounds like it shouldn't be very tight so the above should work just fine.


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## PugIain (Jun 28, 2006)

A hammer and a chisel, as above is what I'd try.
Given it's knackered you could even try drilling it in various places to help either get it off, or to split in half.


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## c87reed (Dec 9, 2015)

I would either weld a nut on or a socket (a long socket would be good or nut that clears the thread) or I would use a punch chisel to split the nut taking great care to stay away from the thread to avoid damage.

Patience is key with these jobs.


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## Kerr (Mar 27, 2012)

You're the guy that keeps raiding my cutlery drawer. :lol:


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## Demented (Nov 3, 2014)

Within the image; is it the spacer which can be seen and the wheel hasn’t been fitted ?
If so, it maybe time to consider removing the hub and drilling the stud out from the rear.

If you can’t removed the hub; maybe cut the exposed thread of wheel stud off and drill it out; start with a small drill to create a pilot hole (centre punch the centre of the wheel stub before drilling) and gradually increase drill thickness until the wheel nut comes off.

Other alternative, would be to attempt to drill hole on the edge of the wheel nut, down its depth, so to split it; although judging by the image, the edge maybe too chewed up.


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## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

Demented said:


> Within the image; is it the spacer which can be seen and the wheel hasn't been fitted ?
> If so, it maybe time to consider removing the hub and drilling the stud out from the rear.
> 
> If you can't removed the hub; maybe cut the exposed thread of wheel stud off and drill it out; start with a small drill to create a pilot hole (centre punch the centre of the wheel stub before drilling) and gradually increase drill thickness until the wheel nut comes off.
> ...


Yes the black you see is the wheel spacer, so no wheel fitted.

I think I'll try going down the route of chiseling / drilling the nut with the hope of cracking it and trying not to do any damage to the stud at the same time


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## fatdazza (Dec 29, 2010)

I have had success before by using a small drill bit (talking 1.5 or 2 mm) and making a decent indent into the nut, Then use a centre punch at an angle so that when you hit the punch with a hammer it is working in the direction of undoing the nut. A slow process to begin with but as others said, slow and steady wins this race.

Another thought - are the other nuts still in place? If not then put them back in and tighten them as it may help (if you just have the one nut tightened, the spacer itself will be "pushing" against the bad nut making it harder to remove - a bit like the reason for tightening wheel nuts in a diagonal fashion)


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## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

fatdazza said:


> I have had success before by using a small drill bit (talking 1.5 or 2 mm) and making a decent indent into the nut, Then use a centre punch at an angle so that when you hit the punch with a hammer it is working in the direction of undoing the nut. A slow process to begin with but as others said, slow and steady wins this race.
> 
> Another thought - are the other nuts still in place? If not then put them back in and tighten them as it may help (if you just have the one nut tightened, the spacer itself will be "pushing" against the bad nut making it harder to remove - a bit like the reason for tightening wheel nuts in a diagonal fashion)


Great thanks for the tip, at the time only the one nut was on. A bit of panic set in and I've hashed it. The other nuts are back on now as I didn't feel comfortable leaving the wheel off over night. So I will try your tactic later :thumb:


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## Tykebike (Mar 27, 2016)

Just out of interest were you using hand tools to make this mess or an air gun/impact wrench?


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## Summit Detailing (Oct 9, 2006)

Something else to consider over and above what others have already suggested - 

Remove the spacer, if there's enough meat left on what was the nut then either file 2 flat edges opposing each other and try a wrench or sacrifice a socket and weld it on.

I know Easter's round the corner but I haven't seen chocolate wheel nuts in the supermarket:speechles

Good luck!

Chris


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## Chrisxtype (Aug 13, 2019)

Have you got a spare stud ? If so I would start drilling that out, starting dead centre, and going up in size ,only by 1mm at a time ,put tape around the drill bit to give you self a depth,
This will weaken the grip off the nut on the stud ,you will then be able to give the nut a sharp tap with a punch or even hammer on a socket, don't ask how a know this , I run an x type jag, and the wheel nuts have a stupid chrome cap, best of luck, keep safe


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## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

Tykebike said:


> Just out of interest were you using hand tools to make this mess or an air gun/impact wrench?


Hand tools


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## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

Summit Detailing said:


> Something else to consider over and above what others have already suggested -
> 
> Remove the spacer, if there's enough meat left on what was the nut then either file 2 flat edges opposing each other and try a wrench or sacrifice a socket and weld it on.
> 
> ...


That's the problem, I can't remove the spacer as that nut is what's holding the spacer on :lol:


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## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

dhali said:


> Hammer a 12 point socket on it . Preferably 1 or 2 mm smaller . I've had success using that method before on allen head socket bolts on rear brake caliper carriers . Remember to turn very slowly with as much leverage as possible


Taking a hammer to standard sockets is a bit dodgy from a safety perspective as they shatter.

Better to buy a set of extractors and use those.


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## Demented (Nov 3, 2014)

Yeah, sockets can shatter when hammered on, so be careful and whenever doing any work when shards or drill swarf can fly up in all directions, always wear eye protection; sight is precious. 

However, if there is enough metal on the nut for a socket to be hammered on; it may be worth applying heat, a blow torch will do; apply the heat mainly to the nut & prior to hammering on a socket.

The heat may provide enough expansion to get it moving; also, with a seized nut or whatever, it’s always best to tighten first, ever so slightly, just to get it moving; then un-tighten.

Although, you’re attempting to save the wheel stud; if you do manage to removed the nut without causing visible damage to the stud; I suggest you replace it, as its tensile strength may of been compromised.


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## Tykebike (Mar 27, 2016)

MA3RC said:


> Hand tools


 Blimey I would't like to meet you in a dark alley!


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## Andy from Sandy (May 6, 2011)

The black coloured sockets pictured and linked to on page one will be impact type. The metal is not as brittle as the chrome vanadium jobbies and ought to be able to take a hit from a hammer.


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## Tykebike (Mar 27, 2016)

Can you give us an update on the removal? We are (well I am) waiting with bated breath to see which method worked.


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## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

Tykebike said:


> Can you give us an update on the removal? We are (well I am) waiting with bated breath to see which method worked.


Ofcourse! I've not yet had the guts to look at it again :lol:


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## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

Looks a nightmare of a job. I've not known wheel nuts to ever get that tight, even when done with a windy gun or torque wrench.

I had a similar issue years ago but that was mostly down to using a dirt cheap socket set, something you don't forget once it has happened once.


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Good grief that's bad!! I hope you manage to get that removed without too much damage to anything else. 

Cheers

Cooks

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## Crackfox (Mar 17, 2019)

I'd be questioning the quality of those spacers if the nuts are that soft. You might want to think about cutting the space off. Cut around the remaining stud donyou can pull the bulk of the spacer away. Then make 2 cuts above the nut slightly wider so you can seperste the 2 parts from the nut and hammer them out. 

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## Darlofan (Nov 24, 2010)

Wonder how many of us are thinking I'd love the challenge of getting that off? I know I am.


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## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

Darlofan said:


> Wonder how many of us are thinking I'd love the challenge of getting that off? I know I am.


Oh, yeah, I'd enjoy getting that off, on the understanding it doesn't matter what damage I cause with the gas axe whilst I'm at it...


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

I’d play it safe and if you can, get your car to a tyer fitter and get a mobile tyer fitter to pop over to you and let him remove it.


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## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

Darlofan said:


> Wonder how many of us are thinking I'd love the challenge of getting that off? I know I am.


Do you live in South Wales? :lol:


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## mar00 (Jun 24, 2018)

Soul boy 68 said:


> I'd play it safe and if you can, get your car to a tyer fitter and get a mobile tyer fitter to pop over to you and let him remove it.


it you don't have the kit this will be easier,

find a business with a inductive heat gun and reverse thread extractor it will take 10 mins, there are mobile companies and a lots of good garages with have them now, I have one and it's one of the best tools we ever bought


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## packard (Jun 8, 2009)

I’ve seen some RAC / AA and mobile tyre techs perform roadside miracles on some like these before.


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## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

Hadn't thought of using an inductor gun, that might work if you can get the coil around it? Get it hot and whip a chisel into it whilst it's soft. Might find that just heating it up might get the thing loose.


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## Harry_p (Mar 18, 2015)

I'm another that would love a go at getting it off.

I'd probably build it up with weld until I had something to grip onto. Doesn't look like there's quite enough meat to weld a socket to it where it is at the moment.


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## great gonzo (Nov 4, 2010)

If you have a multi tool with a few fine metal cutting blades that would work, if not a few small drill bits and a small chisel and of course some patience. 


Gonz.


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## bidderman1969 (Oct 20, 2006)

any joy?


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## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

Hello again all! 

I took the better judgement and took the car to a garage who had the right tools :lol: they managed to make some extra space by drilling out part of the spacer and thinning down the nut, then used a set of grips to wriggle it off. 

Honestly the best £30 I've spent haha! 

I've now also learnt from my mistakes. 

Thanks for everyone's input


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## nbray67 (Mar 22, 2012)

£30 well spent and glad you managed to get it sorted buddy.


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Good news :thumb:


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## VW STEVE. (Mar 18, 2012)

MA3RC said:


> Hello again all!
> 
> I took the better judgement and took the car to a garage who had the right tools :lol: they managed to make some extra space by drilling out part of the spacer and thinning down the nut, then used a set of grips to wriggle it off.
> 
> ...


............after that have you stuck with the spacers or as i would have done binned them!!!!!!!!:lol:


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## MA3RC (Jun 19, 2012)

VW STEVE. said:


> ............after that have you stuck with the spacers or as i would have done binned them!!!!!!!!:lol:


They're in the bin! The backs can stay for now though as they're in good shape!


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## great gonzo (Nov 4, 2010)

Nice one !!
£30 quid too bargain. 

Gonz.


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