# My vag paint just became easy.



## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I have found the perfect combo for my VAG paint ! :argie:

A 3m Compounding Pad and 3m Fast Cut Plus 

Its as though I am detailing a Nissan, managed to fly through the panels, normally it would take an age to do. Be careful as the 3m Compounding Pad creates a lot of heat, you just have to stop now and again to check for this. :thumb:


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## Reflectology (Jul 29, 2009)

Thought you were going to say you found Scholl....but then again you wouldnt need to keep an eye on the heat because correction is achieved before it gets to the "ooooh toooo hotttt must stop" scenario kicks in....


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

lol no scholl yet I have been recommended it, but I have changed my polish choice so often since 2004 and I am trying to be strong with this one ! There are so many good polishes available but this combo really helped me today with the Golf. 

I find it's the compounding pad from 3m. If you put your finger tips on it it really heats up quickly. This is a great combo for me, as it really finishes down so nicely.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Reflectology said:


> Thought you were going to say you found Scholl....but then again you wouldnt need to keep an eye on the heat because correction is achieved before it gets to the "ooooh toooo hotttt must stop" scenario kicks in....


So does this mean scholl is more aggressive in the liquid than 3m and that's the reason it cuts quicker. Does it cut quicker or is it more aggressive ?


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

Instead of the green pad try a polishing wool pad. You will find work time increased, heat reduced completely and it's a much more controlled set


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

I hate those green 3M pads, only ever owned one and binned it, nasty thing.

Much prefer a nice wool pad.

I think that green 3M thing is a dangerous pad.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

stangalang said:


> Instead of the green pad try a polishing wool pad. You will find work time increased, heat reduced completely and it's a much more controlled set


Suppose it would be safer, but a wool in itself leaves its on traces of correction which then in turn have to be corrected. I suppose it would be good to know if my combo removes more clear than the two step for wool.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Mirror Finish said:


> I hate those green 3M pads, only ever owned one and binned it, nasty thing.
> 
> Much prefer a nice wool pad.
> 
> I think that green 3M thing is a dangerous pad.


Yeah, just have to be cautious with it I suppose.


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

3M FC+ will not finish down it is too abrasive and will leave marks, holograms etc. 

If you can get it to finish with a green pad then you must be doing something new.

If your using FC+ then you need at least to refine it with Ultrafina.

Proper correction will always be a 2-3 step stage.

I have binned 3M now and mainly use Scholl and can correct a car and finish in 2 stages.


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## stangalang (Nov 27, 2009)

The wools don't have to be mega aggressive and IMO fast cut plus doesn't finish that well. At least requires a medium Menz polish if not doing a dedicated 'jewelling' set. But try it pal I reckon the results will be pretty much identical just nicer on the arms lol


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## Gleams (Jul 26, 2010)

JJ_ said:


> Suppose it would be safer, but a wool in itself leaves its on traces of correction which then in turn have to be corrected. I suppose it would be good to know if my combo removes more clear than the two step for wool.


I would be very surprised if you didn't need to refine the paint after a set of FCP..?! It could just be very hard paint and the heavy filler content in FCP is probably hiding a lot of holograms etc, follow with an IPA wipedown just to make sure that the filler isn't hiding too much

Also, the marks that wool leaves are so fine that a decent set of a finishing polish would remove then with ease and burnish the surface to a very nice LSP ready surface and even help improve gloss from the single compound set


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## Gleams (Jul 26, 2010)

That's the other benefit of Scholl, especially S17+, there is far less filling involved and a much sharper finish achieved than with 3M FCP, much prefer the lack of dust involved with Scholl aswell!


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

Gleams said:


> That's the other benefit of Scholl, especially S17+, there is far less filling involved and a much sharper finish achieved than with 3M FCP, much prefer the lack of dust involved with Scholl aswell!


Oh yes, forgot no dust either, or very little!!

S17 and S40 is the two ones I go for everyday, or S3 Gold on a real nasty car.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Made a bit of a mistake!! the polish was infact Extra Fine Compound by 3m, I don't have the big bottles as I popped the remnaints of them into 3 smaller bottles and I abbreviated the names. :lol: So it was infact extra fine compound

Im going to continue with said combo tomorrow to get more done on the car, I always IPA twice to remove all the fillers as the polishes I learned on (early meguiars) were very oil heavy.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Gleams said:


> I would be very surprised if you didn't need to refine the paint after a set of FCP..?! It could just be very hard paint and the heavy filler content in FCP is probably hiding a lot of holograms etc, follow with an IPA wipedown just to make sure that the filler isn't hiding too much
> 
> Also, the marks that wool leaves are so fine that a decent set of a finishing polish would remove then with ease and burnish the surface to a very nice LSP ready surface and even help improve gloss from the single compound set


I thought I would need a medium abrasive polish to level the paint after a wool pad ? Would I be able to use something like Ultrafina ?

I might invest in the scholl stuff as the next car will be a BMW so just around the same hardness again.


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

3M EFC will finish down just fine on harder paints - good job! The marking couldn't have been very deep though, as I find it wouldn't normally be enough on a VAG car, and again it does fill a bit, the 3M's seem a bugger for this.

I'd urge you to try S17+ and a SSP on harder paints.. its very impressive stuff.


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## Superspec (Feb 25, 2011)

I'm surprised that fastcut plus and green pad doesn't cause holograms or at least hazing. It needs refining no matter how hard the paint is surely.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

RussZS said:


> 3M EFC will finish down just fine on harder paints - good job! The marking couldn't have been very deep though, as I find it wouldn't normally be enough on a VAG car, and again it does fill a bit, the 3M's seem a bugger for this.
> 
> I'd urge you to try S17+ and a SSP on harder paints.. its very impressive stuff.


It'll generally just be wash marks and the odd scuff. I'm at a stage where I either keep the car in that case I think this will be one of the last times I polish it right back, or I sell it early next year and just get it perfect. I am looking at the scholl stuff right now, do I also need the pads to go with this kit ?


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Superspec said:


> I'm surprised that fastcut plus and green pad doesn't cause holograms or at least hazing. It needs refining no matter how hard the paint is surely.


Sorry that should be extra fine compound.


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

JJ_ said:


> It'll generally just be wash marks and the odd scuff. I am looking at the scholl stuff right now, do I also need the pads to go with this kit ?


Yes, I would, they work very well together, but [email protected] is getting great results with 3M Yellow pad too. Get one at least to try out.


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## Superspec (Feb 25, 2011)

JJ_ said:


> I thought I would need a medium abrasive polish to level the paint after a wool pad ? Would I be able to use something like Ultrafina ?
> 
> I might invest in the scholl stuff as the next car will be a BMW so just around the same hardness again.


I keep pressing thanks!!!

Anyway, Perfectit on a yellow pad will refine quite well if you back right off at the end of each set.


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

I use all the Scholl polishes with a yellow 3M pad then refine with a blue 3M pad. I did not get on with the Scholl Spider pads. Love the Scholl wool pads though.


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I find the Scholl wool too aggressive and can't get decent results from 3M pads and love the SSP's, but I guess it shows how techniques differ!

Try a SSP JJ and I'll buy it off you if you don't like it.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Superspec said:


> I keep pressing thanks!!!
> 
> Anyway, Perfectit on a yellow pad will refine quite well if you back right off at the end of each set.


You just need to spend a wee bit of time at low rpm and it'll finish nicely.


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

RussZS said:


> I find the Scholl wool too aggressive and can't get decent results from 3M pads and love the SSP's, but I guess it shows how techniques differ!
> 
> Try a SSP JJ and I'll buy it off you if you don't like it.


What is a SSP JJ??? Is this some secret code??


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

RussZS said:


> I find the Scholl wool too aggressive and can't get decent results from 3M pads and love the SSP's, but I guess it shows how techniques differ!
> 
> Try a SSP JJ and I'll buy it off you if you don't like it.


What is a SSP JJ??? Is this some secret code??


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

RussZS said:


> I find the Scholl wool too aggressive and can't get decent results from 3M pads and love the SSP's, but I guess it shows how techniques differ!
> 
> Try a SSP JJ and I'll buy it off you if you don't like it.


What is a SSP?? Is this some secret code??


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

SSP = Spider Sandwich Pad

JJ = his User Name


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## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

SSP = Spider Sandwich Pad
JJ = Someones username

dammit too slow


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

RussZS said:


> SSP = Spider Sandwich Pad
> 
> JJ = his User Name


My real name as well haha.


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

RussZS said:


> I find the Scholl wool too aggressive and can't get decent results from 3M pads and love the SSP's, but I guess it shows how techniques differ!
> 
> Try a SSP JJ and I'll buy it off you if you don't like it.


What is a SSP?? Is this some secret code??


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Yes, it's top secret.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

RussZS said:


> I find the Scholl wool too aggressive and can't get decent results from 3M pads and love the SSP's, but I guess it shows how techniques differ!
> 
> Try a SSP JJ and I'll buy it off you if you don't like it.


So will the SSP finish down or do I look at the orange pad.


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

JJ_ said:


> So will the SSP finish down or do I look at the orange pad.


Really does depend on the paint. On an R32 I did, it finished down perfectly well (you can always benefit from refining tbh but not always practical) and it did on my own Edition 30.

On softer paints, it makes easy work of RDS but will require refining afterwards, so the Fiesta SS I did, needed 205 over it remove the very slightest of holograms. Although I could have probably used S17 and a softer pad, but I love 205 so opted for that instead.

For a single stager, on harder paints, its hard to beat. The MF system impresses me too in this context, but its not as effective on the deeper scratches.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Well I suppose what scholl polish works on your edition 30 will work on mine same colour et al. I just do my own car's now.


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

Perhaps wet sand the orange peel out first, then polish up???? I have a few wet sand pads spare.

Doubt it will cost you £6k like Mr Dalton charges if you do it yourself!!

The Megs DA system will knock about 30% of the orange peel out.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

So whats your thoughts on wool pads ? What ones should I look at.


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I have limited experience with wool so far if I'm honest, but I like the GTechniq ones, they work well with P1 and S3.

Dodo SN ones are nice too

The Scholl I found too aggressive.

There's a new 3M one out too, but not tried it yet.


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## GJM (Jul 19, 2009)

Mirror Finish said:


> I use all the Scholl polishes with a yellow 3M pad then refine with a blue 3M pad. I did not get on with the Scholl Spider pads. Love the Scholl wool pads though.


Yellow 3M with Scholl effective on hard paints too? been meaning to try out Scholl for a while but no room in the cupboards 

Are they all low dust and have decent work times


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Mirror Finish said:


> Perhaps wet sand the orange peel out first, then polish up???? I have a few wet sand pads spare.
> 
> Doubt it will cost you £6k like Mr Dalton charges if you do it yourself!!
> 
> The Megs DA system will knock about 30% of the orange peel out.


Yeah the orange peel is quite bad on my edition30, not as bad on russ' funnily enough.


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

They work very quickly, you can work them for longer but its wasted effort and they can begin to dust (when I say they I mean S17 and S3, not used the rest of the range)

I'd suspect on softer paints the 3M Yellow and S17 could do quite well, but I've not got it working for me yet. On harder paints, via their own pads (the orange ones are superb!) they are a great choice. All I seem to be using now is S3, S17 and Megs 205.


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

JJ_ said:


> Yeah the orange peel is quite bad on my edition30, not as bad on russ' funnily enough.


I'm going to wet sand mine over Winter... :doublesho:doublesho:doublesho


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

I used Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Pro today, with a drc1000 8.5" light cut(one up from finishing)pad..(and a 3m yellow 5 inch for the tailgate and rear bumper and 3m yellow spot pad for front bumper/intricates)
have to say for my first full car with it I was highly impressed..

working on a bmw, medium swirling, whole car polished in about 3 hours, finished down very well, 85-90% correction (before now it was washed once a week at the jetwash with the brush, including last week when he said "must have been some sort of wax on it from the last jet wash, it was streaky.. so I gave it a really good scrub with the brush and it was fine" ):wall:


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Yeah but the price... It would have to be REALLY good!


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

lol that is true... someone told me its scholl in a fancy bottle.. 
Im told scholl make the SV pad tower and the accesories ect.. so that is quite possible?


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

RussZS said:


> I'm going to wet sand mine over Winter... :doublesho:doublesho:doublesho


Ive done the odd bit I done near enough the whole of my old beemer. Its not a difficult thing to do, just need a decent paint meter. Its the stage when you see your paint all flat and your stomach goes tight then you start to polish it and you have one section done, thats the best feeling with regards to detailing I think I ever had. :lol:


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I've a few test mules I can practice on luckily, but its something I'm keen to have a good go at. My bonnet needs a respray anyway, so I can practice on that too. 

Have you decided what you're trying then? It's all gone off on a tangent!!


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

RussZS said:


> I've a few test mules I can practice on luckily, but its something I'm keen to have a good go at. My bonnet needs a respray anyway, so I can practice on that too.
> 
> Have you decided what you're trying then? It's all gone off on a tangent!!


Its all good info though, it helps when its guys doing it every day. I don't use the polish and pads as often now maybe once a week or every two weeks. So I find I am using my rotary knowledge but the polish reacts differently.

So many times on DW its heresay rather than people using the products day in day out, so I really appreciate the pro's and other chiming in here !

I think I'll pop an order for scholl all three, the spider pad, the orange pad, gtechniqs wool, megs 205 as I don't really have anything like this most of my fine polishes are more paintwork cleansers than re-fining aside from ultrafina.

Damn DW :wall:


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Let me know how you get on with S40 if you're getting that, I've not tried it yet as I've learnt to work with 205 quite extensively and saw a few comments about it not being quite as good.


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

well if you dont like the scholl JJ get it up in the sales and I'll buy it lol.. wanting to try it.


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

CraigQQ said:


> I used Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Pro today, with a drc1000 8.5" light cut(one up from finishing)pad..(and a 3m yellow 5 inch for the tailgate and rear bumper and 3m yellow spot pad for front bumper/intricates)
> have to say for my first full car with it I was highly impressed..
> 
> working on a bmw, medium swirling, whole car polished in about 3 hours, finished down very well, 85-90% correction (before now it was washed once a week at the jetwash with the brush, including last week when he said "must have been some sort of wax on it from the last jet wash, it was streaky.. so I gave it a really good scrub with the brush and it was fine" ):wall:


Is Swissvax Cleaner Fluid not just IPA diluted in a rather expensive bottle??


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

These threads are what DW was several years ago.


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## Clark @ PB (Mar 1, 2006)

Mirror Finish said:


> Is Swissvax Cleaner Fluid not just IPA diluted in a rather expensive bottle??


No! John told you this in the PB section not too long ago,it's nothing like IPA.


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

Steve have you tried any of the Cleaner fluid? 

I've used regular and pro.. pro being a diminishing polish and regular has glazing oil's ect in it as far as I can see..

don't think its IPA mate.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

RussZS said:


> Let me know how you get on with S40 if you're getting that, I've not tried it yet as I've learnt to work with 205 quite extensively and saw a few comments about it not being quite as good.


I just got "sample" 250g three pack. All I need I think now, I am holding off on a hot pressure washer desperate for one though lol.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Clark @ PB said:


> No! John told you this in the PB section not too long ago,it's nothing like IPA.


The cleaner fluid, the one which is more like a cleanser, from swissvax is amoungst the best I have tried leaves the surface so nice, another cleanser to try is sonus paintwork cleanser great stuff.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Mirror Finish said:


> These threads are what DW was several years ago.


Thats because it's all the old members of DW in here. :thumb:


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

JJ_ said:


> Thats because it's all the old members of DW in here. :thumb:


Guess I better leave


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

JJ_ said:


> Thats because it's all the old members of DW in here. :thumb:


I like the up beat way this thread is going, good advice and good banter. I really enjoy threads like this.

Most threads are just What Wax nowerdays.....


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## Mirror Finish Details (Aug 21, 2008)

CraigQQ said:


> Guess I better leave


Yes sod off Craig :lol: :lol: :lol:

Only joking.


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## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

Mirror Finish said:


> Is Swissvax Cleaner Fluid not just IPA diluted in a rather expensive bottle??


No. 

Swissvax cleaner fluid has the consistency of a polish. Not water.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Here's some birdage just to up the anti


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

CraigQQ said:


> Guess I better leave


Nah craig you get a special pass :argie: just keep your **** to the wall


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## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

I'll take the one closest to the camera - hello :argie:


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I recognise the one with the dark hair no idea from she must be from glasgow. - STALKER


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

alan_mcc said:


> I'll take the one closest to the camera - hello :argie:


All these birds take me back to fast and modified the reason I got into to detailing.


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## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

JJ_ said:


> I recognise the one with the dark hair no idea from she must be from glasgow. Think shes a friend of a friend, im terrible with names and faces.


Really?

Name? Number? Address? Age? ****ing DNA?


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

alan_mcc said:


> I'll take the one closest to the camera - hello :argie:


 i'll take the rest then


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Brunette for me!!

AWESOME!!


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## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

Quality over quantity Craig - you know how it is


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## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

Don't know why I'm looking at the table... but are they supermarket donuts??


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## CraigQQ (Jan 20, 2011)

RussZS said:


> Don't know why I'm looking at the table... but are they supermarket donuts??


 pmsl.. I didn't even see there was a table!!

but yes it says doughnuts on one of the red bags lol..

so alans having the first blonde.. im having the other 3 and russ is having a few doughnuts.. perfect :lol:

alan.. why disappoint 1 girl when you can disappoint 3


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## alan_mcc (Oct 28, 2008)

Donuts to go with the baps.


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## Reflectology (Jul 29, 2009)

Calm down fellas, calm down.....

JJ to answer your question about whether Scholl is more abrasive or just cuts quicker than 3m the answer is its new, 3m is old hat and therefore needs older techniques to to get the best out of it, dont get me wrong its a good range but Scholl work wonders on any paint type and with such ease, even the coarse S3 Gold Edition can be used on a finishing pad the polishes are that flexible....as you will find when I post in the Studio later today....

If you want my guide sending over with all the info you need on Scholl just pop over an email and I will get it straight over to you....

Russ


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## Porta (Jan 3, 2007)

Extra fine cut is a good medium polish, I agree. But when we are talking about FC+, remember it can fill a lot. IPA is not enough to remove the fillers, you have to use a paint prepp such as panel wipes, acrysol or a silicon remover.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Ok so I played around with the 3m stuff again and about 3/4 different pads. My findings were probably similar to you guys, however, I have a bit of a strange one. The pads where, 3m, hexlogic, lake country and meguiars (old skool). 

I have an area of the car which has been refined about 3 + times now and I don't have a paint guage as yet so I was unwilling to fully correct it a fourth time untill I know it's safe. 

So I started with a polishing pad and extra fine compound but this really done nothing to my problem, if I used wool then I would be back to a "two-stage" routine again I wasn't really wanting to hit this area twice. 

So I was generally just farting about and found that the 3m green pad run at the 1st setting roughly 1000rpm ? on my metabo didn't build up as much heat as my polishing pad and smoothed the edges on some of the problem areas on this panel. 

I admit it did take a wee while for everything to break down BUT since the pad wasn't getting as hot as the polishing pad I felt it safer to work with. As I said bit of a weird one, I sold/binned a lot of my other polishes and was actually stuck with that area. I didn't want to glaze it as I was using wolf, but I also didn't want to knock it right back again so this actually worked out quite well for me. 

I am just waiting for my scholl stuff now quite excited about that. :lol: 

I will pop some pictures up of what I acheived today, I managed to smooth many of the RIDS and knock back the wash swirls completely which is my main aim now.


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

I thought I really owe you guys some pictures of how I got on.

I won't go through the whole procedure, just the polishing.










This was just after I had used chemical guys no-touch snow foam. It had a decent amount of dirt on it.










That is how the car started, I hear on DW so many times people saying this snow foam doesn't work, but here we have a car that hasn't been washed in two weeks and chemicals guys no touch really did help.

After this I just done the usual, 2bm, tar, iron-x (fantastic), hardly anything came off on the clay then a refoam and rinse.

The alloys weren't cleaned at all. Everybody knows I hate cleaning alloys or anything below the body line lol. Very lazy these days.










Just shows how slow this VAG paint can be to refine, still showing some rotary marks. I wanted to try and get the paint as perfect as possible so I went over it AGAIN. This was using a 3m green pad and not finishing it for as long, I started to finish on the green pad and would refine until it was almost like a fine glaze left.

So as per my usual stellar performance, I hurridly went onto another panel and never too an after picture.










I started farting around with the camera a bit, when the flash is engaged the secondary lighting it very much muted, I tend to use a 500w halogen a brinkman and my camera to check my work. The camera lense is probably the less forgiving. The brinkman is good at highlighting the clear defects but they are still not as easy to spot compared to using the camera.










A wee bit of over exposure. Its very difficult to spot product residue I find under flourescent lighting unless you step back whereas the halogen makes it so much easier.










This would have been perfect had my microfibre cloth not been linting, it was a sonus finishing cloth not sure if it was overly static as they are washed seperately dependant of their task. Anyway after some more qd and an almost zorro like hand speed the lint was off.










This was the upper rear quarter I had mentioned, it has two quite severe scratches from a kung fu cat just above the petrol cap and I have knocked these back to soften the edges a few times over various details. So I wasn't too keen on levelling the RIDS so I chose to soften the edges, thankfully only 2/3 can now be viewed only under really harsh lighting which is ok. As it will probably need another full detail around march/april prior to selling it.










Starting to look a bit tasty now.










This was it really pre foam wash to remove the polishing dust.










The bonnet and front bumper was really for the following week but I couldn't help myself










I done a wee test here with the flourescent and a reason I don't really use this type of lighting for product residue. Looks perfect eh, slightly out of focus but good depth etc.

Holy product residue batman! Qd wipedown to get the worst off then an IP wipedown x2.










Foamed, washed, dried, ip wipedown and wolf bodywrapped on the corrected areas.


















Thats snow foam from 32 hours prior to that day. :lol:










I stilll love my zymol glasur though.


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## Allan (Jan 7, 2006)

You forgot the wheels son


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## JJ_ (Oct 26, 2005)

Allan said:


> You forgot the wheels son


I didn't know you were still on this ! The wheels really need a re-furb but I am selling privately i'll get them done, however, if a lovely garage will p/x mine for an M3 then I'll not bother lol.


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## Allan (Jan 7, 2006)

haha! 

I am still lurking. House + Wife = No time to detail at all :lol:


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