# Sonax ex 04-06



## Joshb-vxr (Mar 19, 2013)

Just bought a da and I'm looking for a one-step polish to get me going. Looking at reviews and searching on here the sonax ex 04-06 seems to get a good review. Was looking at scholl s20 black but I don't want to be struggling when removing it as I see some people have found.

Will the sonax stuff work well on my 2010 yellow Seat Leon or will I need the hard cut stuff they do as well? Unsure of how hard my paint is but I have ordered Chem guys green pads to use with it, will they be sufficient? I have ordered a couple of their black finishing pads I was going to use with a sealant but wouldn't mind using them with the polish if needs be. 

Totally new to this so any advice is welcome.


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

The Sonax has the potential for lots of cut, depending on the pad used. The green hex pads (heavy polish) are a sensible place to start. The only way to find out is to do a test patch and see how you get on. It will depend on the hardness of the paint but also what condition it's in, and what condition you want to get it into. You can then vary the pad depending on your results.


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## Forsh (Jun 13, 2014)

I like Megs Ultimate Compound
Does a job, easy to remove, not dusty, not expensive

What's not to like?


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## euge07 (Jan 15, 2011)

always keep an orange hex pad in your kit as well! 
Ive still to get trying the sonax polish as ive been too busy but let us all know how you get on!


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## Joshb-vxr (Mar 19, 2013)

Ye then paint has swirls of maybe say a moderate nature but I couldn't tell you the hardness of the paint. When using this product how much pressure am I to apply or should I let the product and weight of the machine do most of the work?

With the finish I don't mind if it's not perfect, it will be my first go with the da so as long as the car looks fresher I don't mind having room for future improvement once I get used to using the machine properly.

The sonax stuff isn't expensive either and shares the same properties as the megs I believe but was also designed for use with the da, one reason why I went with this as cyc say on their site it's the one step da polisher they recommend to every one.


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## Joshb-vxr (Mar 19, 2013)

euge07 said:


> always keep an orange hex pad in your kit as well!
> Ive still to get trying the sonax polish as ive been too busy but let us all know how you get on!


Will get one of them ordered too thanks


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## euge07 (Jan 15, 2011)

Joshb-vxr said:


> Ye then paint has swirls of maybe say a moderate nature but I couldn't tell you the hardness of the paint. When using this product how much pressure am I to apply or should I let the product and weight of the machine do most of the work?
> 
> With the finish I don't mind if it's not perfect, it will be my first go with the da so as long as the car looks fresher I don't mind having room for future improvement once I get used to using the machine properly.
> 
> The sonax stuff isn't expensive either and shares the same properties as the megs I believe but was also designed for use with the da, one reason why I went with this as cyc say on their site it's the one step da polisher they recommend to every one.


think there is instructions on the back to get the best possible results from it, but as youl soon realise when you start polishing that after a few passes and tries you will see what works for you


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## Hereisphilly (Nov 17, 2014)

Lot of discussions about Ex 04-06 in this thread, but summarising it's an awesome polish and great as a one stepper

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=382660

As others have said, change your pad to get different levels of cut, but it still finishes down well even on an orange hex

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## Hereisphilly (Nov 17, 2014)

Barclay said:


> I recommend putting some of the carnauba crème wax into a squirt catsup bottle and cutting back the end half way because it is thick. Then use a large wax pad (cloth) and shake up some polymer solvent wax and put two dabs on the pad and then two lines of crème liquid wax to thin it out.
> 
> This will help it dry faster no matter what the humidity. This will increase the number of cars you can do before you run out of it. Then a gallon of this would do 35-40 cars. Now then a Polymer solvent, sealer combination wax that separates and removes some oxidation, but it is meant as a clear coat quick wax, will last quite along time depending on how oxidized those cars really are. So in that case 1-2 coats will last up to let's say 20-40 cars.
> 
> http://www.hotfrog.com.au/business/nsw/chatswood/nursing-angel-australia_3687577


Errr, maybe the wrong thread?

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## lemansblue92 (Aug 6, 2015)

I used Sonax ex04-06 the other weekend on a white hex pad on hard pain, it gave me some cut but not enough, so I moved on the scholl s20 black with the blue spider pad which was perfect, however I also had the option of sticking with the ex 04-06 and switching to the orange hex pad which would have provided more cut. 

I found the sonax gave a great finish, i doubt you'd be left wanting armed with an orange and white hex pad


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## Hereisphilly (Nov 17, 2014)

This was the finish I got with an Orange hex, I was really impressed

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=379032&highlight=transporter


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## Joshb-vxr (Mar 19, 2013)

Hereisphilly said:


> This was the finish I got with an Orange hex, I was really impressed
> 
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=379032&highlight=transporter


Ye looks really well that if I get mine half as good as that I would be over the moon. What sort of speed did you work it at? I'll be using a das6 pro so if you can help me on what sort of speed and pressure I need to use I would be very grateful.


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## Hereisphilly (Nov 17, 2014)

Joshb-vxr said:


> Ye looks really well that if I get mine half as good as that I would be over the moon. What sort of speed did you work it at? I'll be using a das6 pro so if you can help me on what sort of speed and pressure I need to use I would be very grateful.


I did it exactly as per the instructions, but was using a 21mm throw da so you may have increase the pressure to compensate, if you are after the level of cut










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## Joshb-vxr (Mar 19, 2013)

Okay great that's the kind of thing I needed to know, how may passes do you normally do on each area with this or do you just go by the time stated on the bottle?


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## Hereisphilly (Nov 17, 2014)

Joshb-vxr said:


> Okay great that's the kind of thing I needed to know, how may passes do you normally do on each area with this or do you just go by the time stated on the bottle?


Time is linked to cut, so basically what happens is after roughly 30s the abrasive has lost its correctional ability and starts to finish down

As part of the test I do to gauge if it's going work on that particular paint, I just do 2 ish passes, vert and then horizontal, which equals about 30s

Wipe off & check, and if it's correcting then you know it works and can then repeat but finishing down too

There's no point in working it for the full time for a whole panel to find its not corrected

Nearly all of the cut is in the initial time with the higher pressure

Hope that helps!

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## Joshb-vxr (Mar 19, 2013)

Yes it's helped a lot, plenty of good info for me there.

When you are happy with it and go over with the cut and finish times, do I then wipe down n then go on to then next area? I don't repeat the process again on the same patch or do you do it again until I'm happy with the finish?

When you first prime your pad how do you go about it? I've seen a few different ways people seem to do it, either priming the whole pad before it touches the paint or putting a number of blobs of polish on the pad and dabbing it over the paint n then spreading it. Which do you advise?

Thanks for all the info, if I knew how to use the say thank you feature on the forum I would have said it by now haha.


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## Hereisphilly (Nov 17, 2014)

Joshb-vxr said:


> Yes it's helped a lot, plenty of good info for me there.
> 
> When you are happy with it and go over with the cut and finish times, do I then wipe down n then go on to then next area? I don't repeat the process again on the same patch or do you do it again until I'm happy with the finish?
> 
> ...


Generally if you're happy with it, finish down, wipe off and then move on
Only for really beat up paint will you need to go over again, but if you are having to do that I suggest changing up to a more aggressive polish

I personally fully prime a pad with the product I intend to use (Kevin brown tip), and not with qd. I do that by working polish into the pad with my fingers until it's all covered (you may need to use a but more polish than normal)

Now the pad is fully primed you won't need hardly any polish, 3-4 pea sized blobs.

Dab the pad over the paint in a foot square area so it's all covered in polish, and then get to work

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## Joshb-vxr (Mar 19, 2013)

Great stuff I should be ready to give it a go now, thanks for talking me through it was quite unsure on what steps to take to be honest regarding this product as I couldn't find many guides online.

Will have a read up on the Kevin brown tip. So then every time you start a new part of a panel do you add more 3-4 blobs? As you say the cut is in the first part of the polish so I'm guessing it will need new every time you start a new cut?


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## Hereisphilly (Nov 17, 2014)

Joshb-vxr said:


> Great stuff I should be ready to give it a go now, thanks for talking me through it was quite unsure on what steps to take to be honest regarding this product as I couldn't find many guides online.
> 
> Will have a read up on the Kevin brown tip. So then every time you start a new part of a panel do you add more 3-4 blobs? As you say the cut is in the first part of the polish so I'm guessing it will need new every time you start a new cut?


You need to add 3 - 4 drops of polish for every square foot section you start, same as any other polish on a da, as its used up / broken down on the section you've just worked

No need to re-prime the pad tho, that's only for when you change and get a clean fresh one

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## Joshb-vxr (Mar 19, 2013)

Yes thanks for confirming that, you've been a great help and hopefully I can get some decent results once my stuff gets here


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## Libs (Apr 20, 2016)

Iv used Sonax EX04-06 with a Chemical Guys Orange Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad,
and Iv got to say I didn't think much of it...
So I'm going to try Scholl Concepts. S20 Black with a Navy Blue pad on the Mrs car...


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

Libs said:


> Iv used Sonax EX04-06 with a Chemical Guys Orange Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad,
> and Iv got to say I didn't think much of it...
> So I'm going to try Scholl Concepts. S20 Black with a Navy Blue pad on the Mrs car...


Can you elaborate - did it not cut, or not finish well, or something else?


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## Libs (Apr 20, 2016)

steelghost said:


> Can you elaborate - did it not cut, or not finish well, or something else?


i just wasn't impressed really with the Finnish, mybe I should of used a different pad, I was just removing light swirl marks from a solid colour..stealth grey..


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

Libs said:


> i just wasn't impressed really with the Finnish, mybe I should of used a different pad, I was just removing light swirl marks from a solid colour..stealth grey..


On soft paint a pad with that much cut might leave micromarring. Same could be said of the blue pad - it's Scholl's second hardest cutting spider pad. What car is it?


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## Libs (Apr 20, 2016)

steelghost said:


> On soft paint a pad with that much cut might leave micromarring. Same could be said of the blue pad - it's Scholl's second hardest cutting spider pad. What car is it?


The S20 will be used on my wife's 2014 fiesta ST the blue pad feels very hard it's the one that came with it (sample pack) 
I think it's going to be to hard


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

I've no direct experience but my understanding is that Ford paint is more usually intermediate than "really hard". If you're only looking to take out light marks, I'd say you may be using an overly aggressive pad which likely won't give you a good finish. I'm sure others will put me right if I'm guessing incorrectly


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## Libs (Apr 20, 2016)

steelghost said:


> I've no direct experience but my understanding is that Ford paint is more usually intermediate than "really hard". If you're only looking to take out light marks, I'd say you may be using an overly aggressive pad which likely won't give you a good finish. I'm sure others will put me right if I'm guessing incorrectly


It's all confuseing to me my friend..... Many thanks for your advice mate


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