# Front Wing vs Concrete Post (post wins)



## 51Sneyd (Nov 6, 2007)

I was gutted last week when I managed, while reversing into a space at work, to come into contact with a concrete post. Even though I was hardly moving, I still managed to take the paint off the front wing and bumper, as well as putting a small dent in the wing 

I still don't know how I managed it as I've been parking here for the last 6 years, admittedly only 2 years with the current motor, but normally the front sensors would alert me to the fact that I was getting too close to the post (or the car next to me, or the wall behind). But this time ..... no! I can only think I came in at a slightly odd angle so the sensor couldn't pick it up. Very annoying!

Anyway, I new I could polish out the little scrapes and possibly try 'paint filling' the lost paint, but getting the dent out would be difficult. So in the end I thought blow it, I'll get a smart repairer in. So I looked around online and found one, Andy Withers. Checked out his feedback and gave him a call. He's been today and this is the result. Very pleased 

The first 4 photos show the damage (the 3rd was an attempt at showing the dent but it doesn't show it very well)





































The next one shows Andy taking out the dent










The next 2 show the area rubbed down and filled



















The next one shows Andy using a spectrometer (spectrophotometer) to get the exact colour of the cars paint










The next 2 photos show the spectrophotometer hooked up to the laptop - the 1st shows the paint match (green is best, then amber, then yellow), the 2nd shows the exact quantities to match to get the colour



















This one shows the top coat after rubbing down










The next 2 show the paint being cured



















The next one shows the clear coat after a rub down with 2000 grit and before the final polishing (Farclea & 3M).










And finally the finished result





































Guess who's a happy bunny again 

All done with no fuss, by a very nice man, at a very reasonable price. Thanks to Andy for allowing me to take the photos and for the general chat on detailing

PS Mark (Autobrite) he's local so I pointed him in your direction for products.
PPS Wasn't sure whether to post under the 'Showroom'?
PPPS Hope the mods don't mind me naming names?


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## S63 (Jan 5, 2007)

Plenty of threads with a negative view of Smart repairs, this example shows there is a place for them alongside bodyshops.

No travel time and expense to a bodyshop.
Car not offroad for a few days.
You can watch the repair in progress.
I'm guessing but a fraction of the cost compared to a bodyshop.

A win win result:thumb:


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## DMH-01 (Mar 29, 2011)

Looks like he's done a good job there :thumb:


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## samm (May 19, 2006)

Looks like a really good job bud.


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## EliteCarCare (Aug 25, 2006)

Nice repair, not all smart repairers are cowboys, Andy looks like he knows his stuff! :thumb:

Alex


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## R7KY D (Feb 16, 2010)

Nice to see a smart repairer who actually knows what he's doing


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## Warduke (Sep 21, 2007)

Good job Andy well done...:thumb:


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## Leemack (Mar 6, 2009)

Top job there


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## Kriminal (Jan 11, 2007)

That is sad, initially, but amazingly brilliant and un-noticeable afterwards....fair play to Andy. Like others have said, there's too much pre-judgement going around, regarding Smart Repairs.

I guess it's like everything - if you have had bad luck with a particular motor, ALL of the same brand are stamped with the same 'terrible motor' stamp. I can't tell you how many people told me about bad luck stories with Audi TT's, and to steer well clear of 'em....I had mine for four years with no problems.

So glad to see you have had good results using them though :thumb:


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## 51Sneyd (Nov 6, 2007)

Cheers guys. Like anything, there's good and there's not so good – fortunately I’ve picked a good ‘un. :thumb:

Just put some collinite on to protect it before I use it tomorrow.


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## toomanycitroens (Jan 14, 2011)

Very impressive.
Dropped on a Pro there.
Great result mate.


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## michael3011 (Nov 27, 2011)

Any chance you could reveal costs?
that work does look good!!


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## Grizzle (Jul 12, 2006)

Get Andy on here to see the pics and peoples posts, i think thats friggin awesome that job


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## Scott_VXR (May 22, 2011)

Top job that!!!


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## 51Sneyd (Nov 6, 2007)

michael3011 - £180 including VAT 

Grizzle - emailed the thread link to Andy :thumb: and offered him the original photos so he can use on his web site


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## *Das* (Aug 9, 2010)

Cracking job that.


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## uruk hai (Apr 5, 2009)

Sad about the scrape but it's nice to see a good pro delivering quality results, obviously takes a great deal of pride in his work. :thumb:


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## Fozzer (Jul 19, 2011)

Any chance of his contact details


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## jay_bmw (Jan 28, 2010)

Wow thats gotta be one of the best smart repairs i've seen! awesome


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## carfix (May 28, 2010)

Thats a great repair. 

As previous poster said, just one numpty smart repairer gives our whole industry a bad name, but there are quite a few of us that are skilled and conciencious but its not as newsworthy when it all goes to plan ! 

If you are looking for a quality repairer in your area try the Map on the Smart Repair Forum. Its got a list of Smart repairers who share best practice and give advice for new repairers. 

For future reference, it is not wise to use Collonite or any other wax on very new paint, as it seals in the latent solvent which is trying to escape over a period of up to a few weeks. If you feel the need, find a product labelled as a Glaze which is permeable and allows the repair to dry thoroughly. 

Rob at Carfix.


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## clarkey1269 (Dec 27, 2010)

Any chance of forward me his details, looks top quality work


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## 51Sneyd (Nov 6, 2007)

Fozzer & clarkey1269 - PMs sent


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

Funny old industry this whole detailing thing - I mean if you had someone in to repair your washing machine can you imagine his surprise if you asked if you could take photos of him working throughout every stage of the process :lol:
Makes for a good thread though, and proves that some of us in the SMART industry aren't the cowboys that many wrongly tag us all as. 
Top work :thumb:

(OP -should you have been sealing it so soon?)


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## 51Sneyd (Nov 6, 2007)

squiggs - yeah, my wife thinks I'm 'oh so sad' :driver:

on the 'waxing' front - seems I shouldn't have put anything on it from yours and carfix's comments.

So should I remove and if so, what with?


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## David.A (Feb 14, 2012)

excellent smart repair work! great to see...


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## should_do_more (Apr 30, 2008)

Nice job. Shame he's not in London, I need one that competent. Chips away weren't too good near me so not keen on them again. That's a real good job.


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

51Sneyd said:


> on the 'waxing' front - seems I shouldn't have put anything on it from yours and carfix's comments.
> 
> So should I remove and if so, what with?


I think Andy has sent you an email with advice :thumb:


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## 51Sneyd (Nov 6, 2007)

squiggs said:


> I think Andy has sent you an email with advice :thumb:


hi squiggs, he has indeed :thumb:

Although I took it on myself to do something before he replied. I used a weak mixture of APC to wipe the area and used my DA with a Sonus Final Finish Polishing Pad and a small amount of Menzerna Final Finish polish on a slow speed - so this should have removed the wax without doing too much to the clear coat.


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## Fozzer (Jul 19, 2011)

51Sneyd said:


> Fozzer & clarkey1269 - PMs sent


Cheers contact made


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## Clyde (Feb 15, 2012)

Great work. Any recommendations for someone in London/Surrey?


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## Focusaddict (May 31, 2010)

Nice.
How far does he go?


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## jamie_s (Jul 10, 2009)

I know this is an old thread, but would like to question if possible how the repair has weathered? 
I've done a fair bit of paintwork and have recently been looking in to smart repairs as most of the process I'm familiar with in practice so could be a possible career option for me.
People often complain that smart repairs don't last, from what I understand in the earlier days smart repairers didn't use 2k products so would always deteriorate after a few months, then they started using 2k clear at least which should give them the durability of any bodyshop repair. The only problem I see (from experience) is that the 2k primer needs to dry thoroughly or it will sink. And 1k primer which can be dried quickly will sink whether it's dry or not. So with smart repairers drying it with a lamp and flatting and painting straight after is not (if 2k) thoroughly hardened. And if its 1k then it will dry quickly but is a compromise because it will sink.
So do they use 2k or 1k primer? And have manufacturers really developed a primer that can be dried with a lamp over half an hour or however long, and not sink/shrink/deteriorate in any way? If so then that's excellent but if not then I wouldn't be happy doing it.
I'm not accusing anyone of anything I'm genuinely interested in finding out more info.


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## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

smashing bit of work there :thumb:


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## RossyL (Sep 14, 2009)

jamie_s said:


> I know this is an old thread, but would like to question if possible how the repair has weathered?
> I've done a fair bit of paintwork and have recently been looking in to smart repairs as most of the process I'm familiar with in practice so could be a possible career option for me.
> People often complain that smart repairs don't last, from what I understand in the earlier days smart repairers didn't use 2k products so would always deteriorate after a few months, then they started using 2k clear at least which should give them the durability of any bodyshop repair. The only problem I see (from experience) is that the 2k primer needs to dry thoroughly or it will sink. And 1k primer which can be dried quickly will sink whether it's dry or not. So with smart repairers drying it with a lamp and flatting and painting straight after is not (if 2k) thoroughly hardened. And if its 1k then it will dry quickly but is a compromise because it will sink.
> So do they use 2k or 1k primer? And have manufacturers really developed a primer that can be dried with a lamp over half an hour or however long, and not sink/shrink/deteriorate in any way? If so then that's excellent but if not then I wouldn't be happy doing it.
> I'm not accusing anyone of anything I'm genuinely interested in finding out more info.


Yes - I too would very much like to hear back from the OP to see how it weathered.


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## squiggs (Oct 19, 2009)

jamie_s said:


> I know this is an old thread, but would like to question if possible how the repair has weathered?
> I've done a fair bit of paintwork and have recently been looking in to smart repairs as most of the process I'm familiar with in practice so could be a possible career option for me.
> People often complain that smart repairs don't last, from what I understand in the earlier days smart repairers didn't use 2k products so would always deteriorate after a few months, then they started using 2k clear at least which should give them the durability of any bodyshop repair. The only problem I see (from experience) is that the 2k primer needs to dry thoroughly or it will sink. And 1k primer which can be dried quickly will sink whether it's dry or not. So with smart repairers drying it with a lamp and flatting and painting straight after is not (if 2k) thoroughly hardened. And if its 1k then it will dry quickly but is a compromise because it will sink.
> So do they use 2k or 1k primer? And have manufacturers really developed a primer that can be dried with a lamp over half an hour or however long, and not sink/shrink/deteriorate in any way? If so then that's excellent but if not then I wouldn't be happy doing it.
> I'm not accusing anyone of anything I'm genuinely interested in finding out more info.


A decent repairer (shop or mobile) shouldn't rely on primer to 'fill' anything - so sinking really shouldn't be a problem. 
Good sanding and prep should mean that the only job a primer does is as 'bonding agent' between a bare 'keyed' material and paint.

2k primers will usually dry at 60 degs between 10 and 30 mins (whether that be in an oven to heat a large area or a by heat lamp to heat a smaller area) then they need to cool before any further work.
1k primers are available but can cause problems when over coating with 2k products if they haven't been allowed to fully 'gas' off.
And because of increasing H&S legislation water based primers are now available that can be warm air dried.

All of the above primers will be subject to sinking - some more than others - but generally the thicker the coverage then the more likelihood there is of shrinkage.
Bodyshop or mobile it's up to the skill of the user to get his workmanship down to the level where primer isn't used to fill low areas or coarse sanding - thereby reducing the likelihood of sinking.


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## ffrs1444 (Jun 7, 2008)

Proper job , looks ace


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