# Touch up repair with no sanding



## 7and911 (Mar 2, 2014)

Car is just 4 weeks old and I managed to have a scratch on the drivers door. Car colour is white non metallic. Paint is soft and the scratch easily reached the metal.










the length of the scratch is about 10mm and the diameter of the chip is about 1-2mm

Have been doing online search for the last few days and read the guide here on DW. Many methods for dealing with such repair. Some methods involved wet sanding and some used primer.

I am mainly interested in a method that:

A) can be completed within a few hours. (as the repair is going to be done outdoor)
B) doesn't involve wet sanding (I know, wet sanding may give a better result but I am new to detailing and prefer to avoid sanding if i can)

So, here is the three products I am seeking advice on please:

1) Dr ColourChip: http://www.drcolourchip.co.uk/
2) Chipex uk: http://www.chipex.co.uk/
3) Manifature touchup paint and leveler fluid/Blob eleiminator (Something like Langka) http://www.frost.co.uk/langka-paint-chip-repair-kits.html

The first two methods, (The Dr ColourChip and Chipex) can be finished in less than 2 hours and looks like no abrasive is used but is too good to be true? one drawback is they don't use manufacture paint so it may not be the "exact" colour match

If I want to use the traditional manufacture touch up paint, the only leveling fluid I could find is Langka. Unlike DrColour and Chipex, Langka is not a fluid it is more creamy and involves some rubbing... Any experience with Langka please? Is there any other alternative blob eliminator available?

Other questions:

- for degreasing the area, I do have white and methylated spirit, anyone of them will do the job or i better IPA or lighter fluid?
- for this door chip, is it ok not use primer ? (Primer would need a day to dry and also needs sanding)
- should I wait a few more weeks for the car factory paint to "cure" before I do the touchup or it is better to fix chips as soon as possible?

Regards

A


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## Kriminal (Jan 11, 2007)

Dr Colorchip : I used this on a previous car, and it took a few practice attempts to get it right. So although the video you will have seen makes it look like it's a piece of cake using these products, don't be fooled! However, the paint did do the trick; was a great match, and good advice with the product.

Chipex : Currently using this on the Beemer. Good colour match, although being difficult with having a metallic colour! The product doesn't remain as long as Dr Colorchip's did, as it does seem to wear away with time. Personally wouldn't recommend this product, just on that one reason.

Manufacturer's paint + Langka : well, I haven't used any Langka, so it would be unfair of me to say any more on this. The one thing I will comment on is that I currently use the Manufacturer's paint (having given up with Chipex), and just leave it until it's cured, and THEN polish back with cutting polishes. This saves me having to attempt any sanding, which like yourself I'm not keen on (not having the confidence to do so).

So, as a final comment : I can assure you this will NOT take just a couple of hours, whichever method you choose, as mistakes will be made at first-time-attempts; or as I like to say, learning processes will be made. Patience will always be your best friend when car detailing  :thumb:


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## craigeh123 (Dec 26, 2011)

Get a touch up stick from the dealer , mix the base and lacquer 50 50 use a fine artists brush and touch it in . Build it up then polish it back


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## Harry Kovert (Apr 5, 2014)

craigeh123 said:


> Get a touch up stick from the dealer , mix the base and lacquer 50 50 use a fine artists brush and touch it in . Build it up then polish it back


I've tried mixing the base and laquer on the OEM touch up paint for my BMW and it very quickly clots for want of a better phrase. Should I be using a little thinner to counteract this?

Apologies in highjacking the thread


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## Guest (May 5, 2014)

Kriminal said:


> Chipex : Currently using this on the Beemer. Good colour match, although being difficult with having a metallic colour! The product doesn't remain as long as Dr Colorchip's did, as it does seem to wear away with time. Personally wouldn't recommend this product, just on that one reason.
> 
> So, as a final comment : I can assure you this will NOT take just a couple of hours, whichever method you choose, as mistakes will be made at first-time-attempts; or as I like to say, learning processes will be made. Patience will always be your best friend when car detailing  :thumb:


Totally agree with this. I've used Chipex and won't be using it again and, if you're not happy sanding, it will take you a few days, not hours. to fix that to even a half decent standard.


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## 7and911 (Mar 2, 2014)

Kriminal, Thank you for your comment.... What cutting polish you use and could it be used manually (don't have a machine polisher but happy to buy one if needed)... Errmm, I have a pad that could be attached to an elecrtic drill, would this be helpful in car painting or too risky to use?



craigeh123 said:


> Get a touch up stick from the dealer , mix the base and lacquer 50 50 use a fine artists brush and touch it in . Build it up then polish it back


My car colour is white non metallic. I don't think there is a lacquer layer on top... How would I be sure if it has a lacquer layer or not?...


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## rich9 (Jan 28, 2014)

All cars these days are basecoat with lacquer.

There is no way you will get a great result with hand application and just cutting back with polish. It needs to be sanded and a block using to level it without messing up the surrounding area. And it also needs primer as it's gone down to metal.

If you aren't confident in doing the job get a smart repair done, it should be less than 100 quid. Don't mess about on a brand new car.


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## Kriminal (Jan 11, 2007)

7and911 said:


> Kriminal, Thank you for your comment.... What cutting polish you use and could it be used manually (don't have a machine polisher but happy to buy one if needed)... Errmm, I have a pad that could be attached to an elecrtic drill, would this be helpful in car painting or too risky to use?
> 
> My car colour is white non metallic. I don't think there is a lacquer layer on top... How would I be sure if it has a lacquer layer or not?...


I wouldn't risk the 'electric drill and pad' route, personally. As long as you're patient with the touching-in, and make sure you just dab in a small fine layer/spot, AND LEAVE IT to cure for a good number of hours, you can continue to 'build it up' until it's pretty much level.

However! I would like to confess that I'm a man of FEW patience, and my method on getting the job done as quickly and un-messy as possible, I use a touch-in paint on a fine artists brush, touch it in, leave it for about 5 mins, and then cut back using a liquid polish/wax (I think it was Poorboy's....it's a pink one) that has a nice fine cutting action, PLUS polishing/waxing at the same time...

....this way you don't remove too much of what you've put in, and get to remove the excess surrounding the chip/scratch, as some polishes can have too much of a cutting action.
:thumb:


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