# Done with Fusso Soft 99 Dark !



## markcaughey (Apr 3, 2015)

Im afraid thats me finished with fusso soft 99 dark. No matter what i do i can’t get it off the paint and leave a nice clean finish. it always leaves behind an imprint of the hazed wax. at first i thought it was because i was applying to thick but this weekend i removed all previous wax clayed then chemical guys v36 / v38 then ipa wiped the panel. I then got round to applying the wax which i did very carefully making sure it was barely on and very thin but still making sure it was 100% even. I used a damp applicator this time which helped. i left to dry for 20mins then removed and yet again smear marks all over the bonnet. So then removed all the wax and repeated the same process but this time when removing i put a coat on top of the original haze then buffed of got exactly the same results, so i then repeated the same steps again but this time i only let it haze for 5 minuets and again same results. at this stage i couldn’t be bothered removing it again i put another coat of fusso on and let it haze for around 10 mins then removed of course still looked the same in fact i would say that doing this made it worse !

Decided to mess around with different coatings on top started with CG hybrid V7 then CG 50/50 both made no difference. So tomorrow i will strip the rest of the car and give it a coat of CG 50/50 .

Its really annoying me as i love the way the fusso beads water but I’m afraid i cant live with the smear marks, I will hold on to it as i detailed my mums silver lexus and put a coat on that it looked great and with it being silver you can’t see the smear marks and still get that lovely beading/water behaviour, typical buy a wax specifically for dark cars and works better on light ones !

I know that the smear marks will be my fault with at some point doing something wrong and i know lots of people have achieved great results from this product but I’m afraid i can’t be doing with a wax this temperamental so can anyone recommend a wax with similar qualities i could try out ? I’m liking the sound of colonite 845.


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## Rayaan (Jun 1, 2014)

Theres something wrong in what you're doing. Fusso never does this for me. 

I have a feeling you're not taking all of it off properly and the bits which havent dried properly are rehazing.


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## tyson1989 (Feb 21, 2015)

Did you buy from nipponshine? 

I know this won't help but I haven't had any problems with mine


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## markcaughey (Apr 3, 2015)

Yeah got it from nipponshine.

It looks like it's rehazing but it's impossible to buff off. I have done the rest of the car wich looks fine it's just really prominent on the bonnet. Might try it once more just working on really small sections of the bonnet at a time


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## Guitarjon (Jul 13, 2012)

Buff straight after you've finished the panel. Maybe it's the weather hazing it too quickly as it has been warm. I've had a job removing it if I've left it too long. It's good stuff. I'm also wondering if you've work it in too much? The fillers start to get dusty if worked in too much and again dries out.


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## kev999 (Feb 16, 2007)

What applicator are you using ,I found the megs foam pads and the one supplied were overloading and I couldn't get a thin coat on ,I now use the applicator supplied with authentic and found it works a treat, it does sound as if to much is being applied and its gassing off.


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## President Swirl (Oct 23, 2011)

Haven't used the Fusso stuff, so can't comment mate. However, I can vouch for 845, it is excellent stuff. If you do go for it, and are concerned that it seems more paste than liquid, don't fret mate, a good shake and immerse the bottle in warm water and you're cleared for take off.


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## markcaughey (Apr 3, 2015)

kev999 said:


> What applicator are you using ,I found the megs foam pads and the one supplied were overloading and I couldn't get a thin coat on ,I now use the applicator supplied with authentic and found it works a treat, it does sound as if to much is being applied and its gassing off.


using chemical guys red UFO applicator but trust me it couldn't have been any thinner


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Mark you're not on your own. It only ever happens on the bonnet of my wife's black megane. I manage to clear it , albeit not totally, with Orchard Perfection. The shading on the paintwork is still there but it's harder to see. 
I agree that it's a great product and to be honest i'll happily live with it if this is all that goes wrong. 
Cooks


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

It's probably gassing,leave it for about 3hrs then go round it again with a plush microfibre cloth,wipe the panels and you should have a gleaming motor you can use a quick detailing sprat too.


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## Wilco (Apr 22, 2010)

Cookies said:


> Mark you're not on your own. It only ever happens on the bonnet of my wife's black megane. I manage to clear it , albeit not totally, with Orchard Perfection. The shading on the paintwork is still there but it's harder to see.
> I agree that it's a great product and to be honest i'll happily live with it if this is all that goes wrong.
> Cooks


Same problem on my black bonnet, not with fusso but other waxes. Never happens on vertical panels though.


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Wilco said:


> Same problem on my black bonnet, not with fusso but other waxes. Never happens on vertical panels though.


Yeh absolutely agree. The other panels are fine. Delighted to hear that this happens to other folk with other waxes too.

Cooks


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

Solvents and carriers do evaporate guys leaving a hazing effect no panic.


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Cheers sus. Any hints on how we could prevent it?
Cooks
Edit- Sorry sus - just realised you told us in post #10 D'oh.....


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## markcaughey (Apr 3, 2015)

suspal said:


> It's probably gassing,leave it for about 3hrs then go round it again with a plush microfibre cloth,wipe the panels and you should have a gleaming motor you can use a quick detailing sprat too.


I will give this a try next as its the only thing i haven't tried yet and i will let use know how i get on .

thanks mate


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## NipponShine (Jun 19, 2012)

Drop us a PM! We might be able to help! For such situation we recommend completely erase everything and do it all over again. What have you used to removed all the wax?


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## Makalu (May 7, 2013)

Happened to me first time I used it. Now I only do one panel at a time with just enough product to cover - a very thin coating. It goes on and off a treat and comes up amazing.


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## phillipnoke (Apr 1, 2011)

I have never had any trouble with this product use it a lot


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## dillinja999 (Aug 26, 2013)

i also have problems with a patchy finish on my bonnet with different lsps, weird


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## Harry_p (Mar 18, 2015)

I wonder if the heat from the sun plus the engine under it is altering the paint on some microscopic level, affecting how polishes take to it?

After all, 9 times out of 10 if a car is going to suffer lacquer peel it will be the bonnet which goes first.

Or does the bonnet just happen to be at the ideal angle to show up flaws and marks ?

Very strange to only have problems with one single panel over an entire car.


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## markcaughey (Apr 3, 2015)

UPDATE 

Guys at NipponShine where a great help and sent out there silicone off wax remover which I removed all previous product from the car with. They also sent me their own applicator pad wich was very good for spreading the wax very thin. 1 very thin coat left to haze for 1 hour, came off very easily. pulled the car out into the daylight and it is a very big improvement to the previous results however I can still see the hazed/smeared imprint very slightly in some areas possibly areas I have just applied to thick. It tends to dissappear after a few washes anyway so il wait and see how it goes.

What I will say is everyone should try out their applicator pads , very good for spreading the wax and doesn't absorb the product into the sponge like some others on the market.


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## markcaughey (Apr 3, 2015)

Decided to remove wax again from the bonet and re apply even more carefully and pulled the car out tonight in the light and 100% now. The areas I had went to thick in where on the bonnet swedge lines so just took extra care on those areas. 

Very happy now big thanks to guys at NipponShine ! Great service.


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## AJW001 (Feb 5, 2015)

i applied fusso to my car the other day and it was like trying to buff off glue :lol: 

once i'd got all the wax off though it left a lovely finish apart from some chalkiness from me applying it too heavily


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## markcaughey (Apr 3, 2015)

Yeah its a product that takes some patience and getting used to but well worth it ! 

Get yourself some applicator pads from NipponShine they are best iv used and only £5 for 5. I use them damp and it makes a huge difference to getting it on nice and thin. Comes off so easy so long as it's thin, nothing worse than trying to remove thick wax !


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## AJW001 (Feb 5, 2015)

yeah the finish looks so nice, i want it to chuck it down with rain so i can see the beading lol, took me about 20 mins to apply wax and 40 minutes to buff off lol nightmare


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## suspal (Dec 29, 2011)

Unfortunately applying wax or sealants does take a bit of getting used to correctly,we've all done it,Where we've over loaded the applicator pad and smeared the product on like there was no tomorrow,my test has been to see how far I can spread the wax/sealant and I just dab the applicator pad on the glass to check if there's product still on the applicator,if so I work it.Works out to be much more economical and also a breeze to remove the wax/sealant.


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## AJW001 (Feb 5, 2015)

suspal said:


> Unfortunately applying wax or sealants does take a bit of getting used to correctly,we've all done it,Where we've over loaded the applicator pad and smeared the product on like there was no tomorrow,my test has been to see how far I can spread the wax/sealant and I just dab the applicator pad on the glass to check if there's product still on the applicator,if so I work it.Works out to be much more economical and also a breeze to remove the wax/sealant.


very easy advice to follow as always :thumb: cheers bud, the window trick is also so simple yet overlooked i probably apply most waxes thinly but i primed the sponge with quick detailer and didn't realise how soft fusso actually is


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## Johnsy (Oct 20, 2013)

Iv just popped my waxing cherry with this product.

I used the supplied applicator and left for 15min+ as I did one side of the car first. Easy on easy off, I'd did apply it a little to thick on one corner of the roof and it dried but came off easy enough with a little elbow grease 

Iv got a nice shinny car now


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

Bit of a thread bump, markcaughey I am having the same issues as you with Fusso.

It leaves behind a hazy/grease residue that just won't buff off.

Makes the finish look absolutely terrible.






Has anybody else had similar issues? what was the fix?


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

The most probable reason for this problem is application to imperfectly cleaned paintwork.

Fusso is a highly unusual product, and absolutely hates sitting on top of anything else. What's more, it's really tough, so once it's set on top you're gonna have a miserable time. 

As mentioned above, complete re-do is necessary. I use Silicone Off to wipe-down everything before applying any protection (unless layering), just so I know exactly what effects I'm seeing. I think however this is a must for Fusso especially.


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

I think the car had been prepped pretty well.

Washed, Clayed, Polished with M205 using a DA, Washed with some snow foam + a few squirts of dish soap. Dried, then the Fusso was applied.

Results are per video. no matter how thick/thin I applied the fusso. Waited longer times or buffed straight off. Just left this werid film/haze behind.


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

Fair enough mate- if it was properly prepped, that's a very disappointing result.

I work for Soft99 in Japan actually, but unfortunately there's not much more I can do than offer advice, because we can't accept returns from overseas. You might want to contact the distributor you purchased from.

Nipponshine is our official distributor in the UK, but if you got it somewhere else, I'm not sure what kind of response you'll get.

BTW, can you see a production date on the tin?
If present, it would be in the format YYYYMMDD or YYMMDD


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

I will have a look for the production date.

Yes it is a very disappointing result. I had high expectations from all the praise it gets.

I purchased it off eBay, could it be a counterfeit product?

Is there anyway to determine its authenticity?

I even purchased the white variant and it produced the same end results.


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

I do think it's unlikely to be counterfeit, but you never know these days. 

I think it's more likely to be degraded somehow, improper storage over a long time or something. Both colours from the same seller? I don't mean to lecture you, but this is why we have official distributors.

If I were you, I'd try to test it on a different (definitely clean) paint. 
If it's still naff, you know you've got a bad one, and should complain to the ebay seller (sorry).

If it's OK on the other surface, you know either 
A. your paint isn't clean (use Silicone Off, available from NipponShine)
or 
B. Fusso is incompatible with your paint (I've not heard of this, but it's the only logical conclusion)


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

All products are from the same seller.

Here are some photos of the products, I had never opened the King of Gloss for white cars till now.

It looks alot different to the black version. Is this normal?



http://imgur.com/Ueus9


I have not given up on Fusso just yet, I plan to try it again on another car to see if I can get some good results.

But if my particular batch is bad, this could be why I am having so many issues.


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## Wash monster (May 25, 2016)

I had the same problems with OCD waxes tried all sorts new applicators drying times etc just couldn't get on with it. I'm using 59cal pentawax now awesome stuff


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## chongo (Jun 7, 2014)

Booki said:


> All products are from the same seller.
> 
> Here are some photos of the products, I had never opened the King of Gloss for white cars till now.
> 
> ...


I would say that it's nothing to do with the brand at all but the paint it's self, is that a black Porsche by any chance in the video :thumb: you need to make sure your paint is squeaky clean before you apply this stuff plus if you have very soft paint this can make removal a pain in the backside:thumb:


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

Doesn't seem fishy to me.

All our waxes ARE different according to colour, and for tested reasons. Specifically our carnauba waxes (like KoG) generally have a corresponding white-only version that contains more solvents to clean the paint. Some even contain compound to clean the hard white paint. Because cleanness is more important than gloss for white cars, so goes the logic.

We never do this with black & dark waxes, they are pretty much just carnauba + some functional polymer (hydrophobic, toughening, &.)

Fusso is wax + toughening PTFE-derivative, and the two versions are not massively different (i.e. no compound in either), but the white version contain slightly more solvents.

btw KoG is similarly solvent-rich in the white version (UPDATE: white version also contains some abrasives)

Booki, let us know how it goes if you manage to test on different paint!


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

This might be a bit confusing, but until recently (everyone has ceramic now) a lot of people in Japan regularly used wax, even if theyre not interested in detailing. They just think it's part of owning a vehicle. you have to clean and protect (even if you don't want to). Japanese people are both very diligent, and very image-conscious.

But theyre also very busy, so people like white cars specifically because they don't show swirls from automatic washers, and they buy white-only wax because it gets the stubborn dirt the auto-wash misses, and adds protection.

For anyone who cleans by hand for fun or a living, I would recommend dark every time.

That said, Light Fusso and white KoG &c. are not going to damage your black paint, it's just we think the higher carnauba content of our 'for dark' products will give it better gloss

UPDATE: some "white only" Soft99 products such as KoG "White" are made for single-stage paint and contain abrasives. It may be difficult to notice, but they are there. Fusso products contain no abrasives.


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## FallenAngel (Oct 24, 2015)

shelton said:


> This might be a bit confusing, but until recently (everyone has ceramic now) a lot of people in Japan regularly used wax, even if theyre not interested in detailing. They just think it's part of owning a vehicle. you have to clean and protect (even if you don't want to). Japanese people are both very diligent, and very image-conscious.
> 
> But theyre also very busy, so people like white cars specifically because they don't show swirls from automatic washers, and they buy white-only wax because it gets the stubborn dirt the auto-wash misses, and adds protection.
> 
> ...


Very helpfull to have somebody from Softt99 to answer our questions. Hats off to you for very honest answers. I use Fusso coat on my car, I love the hydrofphobicity and the easy to clean aspect of it, but I agree, holograms are impossible to remove on some cars and colors. :wall: I'm intersted in your sof99 H-7 coating, how does it compare to bigger names like gtechniq, Gyeon, Car Pro? Would you recommend it, and what is expected durability in winter time?


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## BaileyA3 (Jun 14, 2015)

Have had this problem myself with many different waxes but only ever on the bonnet and roof of black cars. Tried different prep methods and applying the waxes as thin as I possibly could which helped a little but it was still happening. Only other thing I thought it could be was the temperature of the panel prior to waxing.


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

chongo said:


> I would say that it's nothing to do with the brand at all but the paint it's self, is that a black Porsche by any chance in the video :thumb: you need to make sure your paint is squeaky clean before you apply this stuff plus if you have very soft paint this can make removal a pain in the backside:thumb:


Interesting theory.

The car had quite a bit of prep done prior the application process.

Its a Mazda MX-5 NC, though it has been resprayed at some point in its life, I can't give any details on the paint used.


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

shelton said:


> Doesn't seem fishy to me.
> 
> All our waxes ARE different according to colour, and for tested reasons. Specifically our carnauba waxes (like KoG) generally have a corresponding white-only version that contains more solvents to clean the paint. Some even contain compound to clean the hard white paint. Because cleanness is more important than gloss for white cars, so goes the logic.
> 
> ...


Thanks so much for the support! I have been in contact with the seller and they are being very supportive as well.

I will hopefully be trying another car over the weekend (My own Subaru forester) The wax I applied to it is starting to wear down in some spots so its time for a refresh.

I really want the product to work as intended, so I am keen to give it another go.

Do you have any tips to prevent the streaking? This car is also black, so I am sure I will be in for a treat! :lol:

Will be giving it a once over with some M205 before applying the Fusso again, Will do a tape line to compare the difference too and post up some pics when done.

Will a wax and grease remover or some Isopropyl be sufficient prior to coating?


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## lawrenceSA (Jul 17, 2012)

Booki said:


> I think the car had been prepped pretty well.
> 
> Washed, Clayed, Polished with M205 using a DA, Washed with some snow foam *+ a few squirts of dish soap*. Dried, then the Fusso was applied.
> 
> Results are per video. no matter how thick/thin I applied the fusso. Waited longer times or buffed straight off. Just left this werid film/haze behind.


It wouldn't surprise me if there is a film of surfactants sitting on the paint from your dishsoap, that is interfering with Fusso


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

I really hope it is as simple as that!

I will be hopefully picking up a bottle of some Isopropyl Alochol to use before the Fusso application.

From my reading, diluting it back to about 10% should be good. Correct me if I am wrong otherwise!


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

More like 20%


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## steelghost (Aug 20, 2015)

I'd use panel wipe rather than IPA


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## Rob D 88 (May 24, 2016)

I have used Soft 99 Water Block Dark and I know it's a slightly different product but it's so easy to apply and remove and produces outstanding water behavior.
























Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

A quick note Booki, when you remove Fusso, I'm not sure if IPA would remove it that well. Maybe it does, but we don't use it so I don't know. 

If you have trouble getting it off, you can try a petroleum-based panel wipe. In our shops we (obviously) use Silicone Off, which is a convenient aerosol petrol solvent haha dont forget to open the door

In terms of preventing streaking, honestly you shouldn't be having any trouble with that at all, so long as it's cured properly and on a clean surface. 

The only usual trouble with Fusso is it's absurd toughness (but that's also basically the selling point haha)... I took home a can yesterday that had got dirty with product and it took about 5 or 6 minutes just to clean the can!


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

FallenAngel said:


> Very helpfull to have somebody from Softt99 to answer our questions. Hats off to you for very honest answers. I use Fusso coat on my car, I love the hydrofphobicity and the easy to clean aspect of it, but I agree, holograms are impossible to remove on some cars and colors. :wall: I'm intersted in your sof99 H-7 coating, how does it compare to bigger names like gtechniq, Gyeon, Car Pro? Would you recommend it, and what is expected durability in winter time?


Bit off-topic, but OK. It's fine to use on cars, but H7 is a range made for yachts, vending machines, telephone boxes, etc.

We currently have 3 main coatings for car bodies: Real Glass Coat (Glass as in SiO2, not as in 'for glass'), Hi Mohs Coat (a premium version), and hydrophilic Hydro Finish. All in G'Zox range.

Although I can't compare to competitors (there are basically none here), they have been successful to the extent that all the major car makers in Japan have our product as a factory option, and almost all the dealers choose that option for all the cars they order. Over 50% of JDM vehicles on the road now are professionally coated. Japanese people loooove cleanliness and convenience, so the pre-coated cars just sell way better. We also sell A LOT in Russia, China, Malaysia/Singapore.

The durability is a selling point, but we now feel kind of dumb as nobody buys our other products any more because the coatings keep the car looking fresh for about 5 years (but to correct the bonnet and roof paint, a detailer would probably redo after 1 year or less), and most people here buy a brand new car every 5 years anyway.

However, we think the application must be perfect. In fact, we don't even sell these products to people we haven't personally trained. You have to prep meticulously. The shop guys go through cans of Silicone Off during prep like they're cans of cider on Midsummer's Day.

Now, if you want hydrophobicity, go for RGC or HMC. There is also a high-gloss version of RGC (sorry I haven't seen it IRL).

A lot of customers don't like it because they can't tell it's there, but water spots make me rage, so I like the hydrophilic Hydro Finish. It has the water behaviour of perfectly polished paint. But MUCH harder, so doesn't get easily dirty or contaminated. 



...HF on the left, a hydrophobic coating on the right.

I'm happy to explain all this, but still none of them are officially available to the public haha. Still, you might find some floating around somewhere...

I think Hi-MOHS coat is excellent, but really difficult to get your hands on in the West. The other (older) products I see floating around on websites are relatively typical performance-wise (though still durable) but I would say good for their value-for-money.


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## FallenAngel (Oct 24, 2015)

Thank you Shelton for your very thoroguh answer. I guess I will stick to Fusso Coat then, that is too much work to find it here in Europe. Back to topc, only time I managed perfect application of Fusso without gassing out and holograms was over Car Pro Essence. Go figure now:wall:


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

Haha CarPro Essence apparently leaves an SiO₂ layer, which is very hard and would be fine to put anything (incl Fusso) on top.

I say Fusso hates to sit on anything, but that's not strictly true. It's just that most problems come from that, and Fusso is a pain to remove, so I don't really want to encourage it.

Nothing wrong with experimenting though, if you don't mind being frustrated haha

I wonder if it's your paint? Black? Resprayed? Maybe there's some ultra-soft paint abroad that we haven't tested with, which causes problems for a just few people.

could be a tip for Booki: Car Pro Essence (or similar SiO₂) + Fusso (+ Water Block or KoG?)


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## FallenAngel (Oct 24, 2015)

shelton said:


> Haha CarPro Essence apparently leaves an SiO₂ layer, which is very hard and would be fine to put anything (incl Fusso) on top.
> 
> I say Fusso hates to sit on anything, but that's not strictly true. It's just that most problems come from that, and Fusso is a pain to remove, so I don't really want to encourage it.
> 
> ...


Hahah, true that I like to try a lot of combinations. My car is Kia Pro Ceed JD (EU model only), paint is called Techno Orange (Which is mettalic orange) and it is soft to medium hardness. It is OEM paint, and whate ever I do I get the holograms, except the Essence combination. My ussual routine before Essence was polish, wipe down with Gyeon Prep , then apply Fusso, then after 12 hours of cure time I apply coat of Authentic Premium. I found that Authentic Premium does remove a god portion of holograms left by Fusso but they are still there until next wash. I had a hard time with Fusso on my girlfriends black car and my fathers grey one. It was strsaking too, not just gassing out. I was using Light version of wax. I will order Dark version now, and maybe it will improve the gasssing out ? You said the dark version contains less solvents.


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## shelton (Jul 24, 2017)

Oh yeah, look at the photos of the waxes in Booki's post earlier, you can see the consistency difference in KoG! Fusso is less difference, but still Dark has more carnauba, less solvents.

I just looked at a can of Kiwami in the office and it says "BLACK (may be used on any colour)" haha I'm sure that goes for all our Black & Dark products, but that note is absent on the White version. I still wouldn't expect too much trouble with white, and the official line is "please match colour" not "you must match colour" 

I'm not sure whether having less or more solvents would help with the gassing! but usually the environment is the biggest culprit. The wax dries too quick (and so unevenly) and some solvent gets trapped. Fusso dries like cement so it could be particularly susceptible. Spreading as thinly and evenly as possible is the most important (controllable) variable I think.

What you say about Authentic made me think, a wipe and buff with some carnauba QD might be a fix for smearing Fusso...


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## Bluebottle (Aug 12, 2016)

markcaughey said:


> Yeah got it from nipponshine.
> 
> It looks like it's rehazing but it's impossible to buff off. I have done the rest of the car wich looks fine it's just really prominent on the bonnet. Might try it once more just working on really small sections of the bonnet at a time


I have just posted exactly the same frustrating problem and then read your post.


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## Tomskii (Aug 1, 2017)

Got the same issues here, first time users. It also left some sort of hologram (which wasn't there before applying the wax) so I'm probably not wiping off correctly. I still find it hard to get off to be honest.


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## ronniehotdog (Aug 9, 2017)

I'm getting similar problems when using fusso soft 99 dark and hazing also. Paint was prepped well (rinse, foam, wash, clay, polish(da), rinse and wax). I think it's likely I applied too much/didn't buff off correctly as when I run a cloth over the haze marks they disappear.

What would be the best way to fix this, go over with the polisher and wax again with less this time or use a product to remove the wax first? What is best to remove it, the silicone off wax from nipponshine mentioned in this thread or any alternatives?


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## LewisChadwick7 (Aug 22, 2014)

ronniehotdog said:


> I'm getting similar problems when using fusso soft 99 dark and hazing also. Paint was prepped well (rinse, foam, wash, clay, polish(da), rinse and wax). I think it's likely I applied too much/didn't buff off correctly as when I run a cloth over the haze marks they disappear.
> 
> What would be the best way to fix this, go over with the polisher and wax again with less this time or use a product to remove the wax first? What is best to remove it, the silicone off wax from nipponshine mentioned in this thread or any alternatives?


i'd apply to bare paint so ditch your waxing stage before fusso, the issue is probably because there's a wax underneath, so final stage before fusso would ideally be a pre wax cleanser before applying very light even coats of fusso :thumb:


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## ronniehotdog (Aug 9, 2017)

Ah right, thanks.

So, removal of wax and light reapplication should work then...any recommendations on a pre wax cleanser? I have some Bilt Hamber Surfex, would this work (diluted)?


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## LewisChadwick7 (Aug 22, 2014)

ronniehotdog said:


> Ah right, thanks.
> 
> So, removal of wax and light reapplication should work then...any recommendations on a pre wax cleanser? I have some Bilt Hamber Surfex, would this work (diluted)?


es if you're plannign on sealing (fusso) i'd skip the wax step after machine polishing and replace it with a pre wax cleanser, something like BH cleanser polsih or DJ lime prime or lime prime lite will suffice, surfex i believe is an APC so not ideal for removing polishing oils. if you do want to add a show wax for some extra gloss do this after you have applied fusso maybe at least a few hours after too to let fusso cure and bond to the paint


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

I have Fusso another go over the weekend, unfortunately I could not get good results.

I prepped the surface with a IPA mix, ensured there was no previous wax and it still smeared on application.

Ended up just coating the car with king of gloss, which I find really good. But Fusso isn't for me.


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## matty.13 (May 3, 2011)

If you don't like fusso 12 , but like the way it does water sheeting why don't you try fusso f7 it's basically a liquid fusso 12 last about 6 months and is very easy to use . Does anyone really need 12 month protection , I get bored like to seal my car every 3-4 months 


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

Interesting, I will have to try Fusso F7 and see if I get good results. Though I will be disappointed if it doesn't leave a good gloss.


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## matty.13 (May 3, 2011)

I used f7 and put king of gloss on top , it gave good gloss . 


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## Booki (Jul 31, 2017)

Did you have any smearing issues with the F7 or Fusso?


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## matty.13 (May 3, 2011)

No it's very much like Ag egp , maybe just a bit harder to buff off . It's liquid sealant that hazes 


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