# Clearkote Carnauba Moose Wax



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

This stuff never fails to impress me on red. I have recently bought some Swissvax Best Of Show and i cannot pretend it give the results that the Clearkote stuff does. Ive also tried Vic's Concours,Collinite 476,Petes 53 and P21s. Nothing even comes close to the Clearkote. The gloss is so deep and wet looking along with great clarity.

Im just glad i didnt pay 120 quid for the BOS because i would be seriously disappointed that it doesnt compete with a 15 quid tub of liquid wax.


----------



## Detailed Obsession (Mar 2, 2006)

Yep, a massively underrated product. Also very good on black and yellow - but a great all rounder full stop considering the cost/ease of use/pretty good durability.

Gareth


----------



## chrisfr (May 25, 2008)

My favourite question: How long does it last?


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

Well it says 6 months for 1 coat on the bottle however im not sure about that.

This stuff is so easy to apply and remove that you can wax the whole car in 10 mins so durabilty isnt really an issue. 

Its deffo the best wax ive used and as i said i even bought Best Of Show which doesnt even come close in terms of finish IMO.


----------



## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

I'd second the thumbs up on CMW - I first bought a bottle of this from Alex @ SP a long time before joining DW (might have even been before DW existed actually) and it's still the best liquid 'nuba wax I've used for looks (especially on dark solid colours). Can't comment on durability as I can never resist re-waxing cars for long enough :lol:


----------



## m0bov (May 2, 2007)

Welcome to the CK club, some on here might have noticed I am rather fond of the stuff!


----------



## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

m0bov said:


> Welcome to the CK club, some on here might have noticed I am rather fond of the stuff!


Are you? you should have said  :lol: :lol:


----------



## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

i love the stuff. All CK products are great. I just wished they smelled nice!


----------



## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

That's true, they do have a bit of a 'chemically' smell to them, but I'll take performance over aroma every time :thumb:


----------



## Guest (Oct 6, 2008)

The Doctor said:


> Well it says 6 months for 1 coat on the bottle however im not sure about that.
> 
> This stuff is so easy to apply and remove that you can wax the whole car in 10 mins so durabilty isnt really an issue.
> 
> ...


----------



## westie (Mar 28, 2007)

Yes very good in deed


----------



## needhampr (Feb 13, 2006)

I'm also a Clearkote fan. CK Vanilla Mouse Hand Glaze topped with the 'nuba wax on solid red really illuminates the car. Probably one of the wettest looking waxes i've used.
The wax has unusual beading qualities which makes me question durability (ie. is it still there after several washes??). 
As already said, this wax can be reapplied very quickly. 
I recently applied 3 coats of Dodo SN v1 and I wasn't sure if it actually looked any better than the CK stuff, although wifey seemed to think SN just had the edge.


----------



## Car Key (Mar 20, 2007)

needhampr said:


> The wax has unusual beading qualities which makes me question durability (ie. is it still there after several washes??).


 So it stops beading, therefore you're not sure it's still there?


----------



## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

A very nice wax, I like to use it after the Yellow Cream Wax (glaze) as both combined adds a little wettness to a well prepped finish though I wouldn't say thee additions are huge in a way, simply a subtle little topping off to good prep work.


----------



## roadstar (May 18, 2006)

How well will it suit the new SEAT SPEED BLUE A slightly darker shade of metalic than the Vauxhall Azure blue? A s I have the full range of CK products


----------



## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

roadstar said:


> How well will it suit the new SEAT SPEED BLUE A slightly darker shade of metalic than the Vauxhall Azure blue? A s I have the full range of CK products


Should suit it perfectly imo. Alhough as we always say on here, a wax will only add a very small amount to the overall appearance - it's all in the prep work.


----------



## chrisfr (May 25, 2008)

Well but the worse the prep, the bigger the difference from using a good glaze and wax.


----------



## Dave KG (Feb 23, 2006)

chrisfr said:


> Well but the worse the prep, the bigger the difference from using a good glaze and wax.


The worse the prep the bigger the difference made by a glaze...  yes, especially if it itself has cleansers too, but then this _is_ paint prep. What the actual wax content of a pure wax delivers, I would be hesitant to say its very much, but any oil content of the wax may add a little more... You'll never come close to proper prep though.


----------



## needhampr (Feb 13, 2006)

Car Key said:


> So it stops beading, therefore you're not sure it's still there?


Yes. CK CMW doesn't seem to bead particularly tightly in the first place - neither does it sheet the best either. I'm not saying it's not there still but it is more difficult to measure durability.

Looks excellent though.


----------



## kos (Jun 19, 2008)

the clearkote range is a bit confusing.......

i think i've worked it out !


----------



## m0bov (May 2, 2007)

CMW = LSP Wax
YCW = Glaze/Wax NOT an LSP
RMG = Glaze no abrasives
VMHG = Glaze/Wax WITH abrasives not an LSP
MW = All in one

Dark car = RMG, two coats YCW, Two coats of CMW
Light car = VMHG, Two coats of CMW

Follow up next wash with a wipe down with their QS qd.


----------



## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

m0bov said:


> CMW = LSP Wax
> YCW = Glaze/Wax NOT an LSP
> RMG = Glaze no abrasives
> VMHG = Glaze/Wax WITH abrasives not an LSP
> ...


100% agree with this. The combo's work VERY well.


----------



## doggonwheels (Aug 12, 2008)

I'm a bit of a CMW convert myself. 

The pics are from the first use, i used CMW over Z ymo l cleaner wax. Just one coat of each as i was in a rush i was pretty happy with the results

Please be kind  its the first time i have posted a pic of my car on here


----------



## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

m0bov said:


> CMW = LSP Wax
> YCW = Glaze/Wax NOT an LSP
> RMG = Glaze no abrasives
> VMHG = Glaze/Wax WITH abrasives not an LSP
> ...


As Dipesh says, I'd also agree with the above apart from the bit I've highlighted in bold - what is the benefit of the 2nd coat of Yellow wax?


----------



## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

thats true pit viper, i was reading in a rush! I think 1 is adequate with 2 so the wax is layered.


----------



## Car Key (Mar 20, 2007)

m0bov said:


> CMW = LSP Wax
> YCW = Glaze/Wax NOT an LSP
> RMG = Glaze no abrasives
> VMHG = Glaze/Wax WITH abrasives not an LSP
> ...


 Do any of these products contain fillers? I think it was on Autopia, that I read that VMHG is an excellent filler.


----------



## Dipesh (Oct 12, 2007)

RMG has the fillers. I'm not too sure is YCW does though. If YCW does, then i do see the benefit of using this twice.


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

very good post for those who are not familiar with Clearkote range. :thumb:

I'm in the middle of a prep for my night hawk black pearl civic.

Yesterday, I washed my car with the two bucket method, clayed with the Sonus fine clay, and applied AG Intensive tar remover and rewashed the car.
Then, I machine polished with:
Kestrel DAS 6,
Meg's polishing pad + Menz P0106FA
Meg's finishing pad + Menz P085D
Deep scratches, deep swirls and stubborn bug stains (maybe oxydation) are not removed but I don't fancy like using Meg's cutting pad + Menz Intensive polish :newbie:

Today:
1) Meg's finishing pad + CK RMG -> should I wipe on and wipe off the RMG? If yes, how long should I leave it to haze?
2) Micro fiber applicator + CK YMCW -> Can I apply YMCW right after RMG? How long should I leave it on the paint?
3) Micro fiber applicator + CK CMW -> Can I apply CMW right after the YMCW wipe down? How long should I leave it to cure on the paint?

Should I leave CMW for 24 hours on the paint before the wipe down?
How many times a year can we apply RMG, YMCW and CMW on a car?

4) MF applicator + Optiseal on the wheels for the gloss and protection

Tomorrow:
Hand waxing with Ion Coat Naviwax for dark color cars -> Should I leave the wax on the paint for 24 hours?
I'll get Vic concours red later. I'll give it a try this summer (RMG + YMCW + Vic concours + 2 coats of CMW)

Next wash up -> I'll be using 1z pearl shampoo. Will Zaino Z8 be a great stuff to go for after the washing?

Thanks


----------



## bleached (May 3, 2007)

kmeleon said:


> very good post for those who are not familiar with Clearkote range. :thumb:
> 
> I'm in the middle of a prep for my night hawk black pearl civic.
> 
> ...


If you want to use YMHG and RMG together, mix a small amount of each at 50% and use them by machine at low-medium speed, massaging the mixture into the paintwork. I have used them many times after reading Scottwax's advise in Autopia, always with great results.


----------



## cleancar (Sep 21, 2006)

if its better than vic concours then i MUST get some , always been really happy with the vics coming to the very last of the tub too...


----------



## MidlandsCarCare (Feb 18, 2006)

I've got all of the CK stuff but never really used them much, so it looks like one to try!


----------



## cleancar (Sep 21, 2006)

anyone do samples ?


----------



## Bigpikle (May 21, 2007)

my bottle is for sale here...

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=116698

good stuff but I have just too much so need to clear a few bits out.


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

bleached said:


> If you want to use YMHG and RMG together, mix a small amount of each at 50% and use them by machine at low-medium speed, massaging the mixture into the paintwork. I have used them many times after reading Scottwax's advise in Autopia, always with great results.


Yesterday, I mixed RMG and YMCW together and applied the mixture with the Kestrel DA.

What should I do then today? Should I put the paste wax first and top it with CMW? How should I apply the 2 coats of CMW? 1 coat + leave it 24 hours and then the 2nd coat? Should I do a spit shining with 2 coats of CMW at once?

Thank you.


----------



## bleached (May 3, 2007)

kmeleon said:


> Yesterday, I mixed RMG and YMCW together and applied the mixture with the Kestrel DA.
> 
> What should I do then today? Should I put the paste wax first and top it with CMW? How should I apply the 2 coats of CMW? 1 coat + leave it 24 hours and then the 2nd coat? Should I do a spit shining with 2 coats of CMW at once?
> 
> Thank you.


Being a cream wax, I have never 'spitshined' it as never found the need to. Just leave to cure for a couple of hours (in the sun if possible) and apply a second coat. As per your other question, I have never used the ION wax and, to be honest, think that three layers is a little overkill.


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

how about topping CMW with Optiseal for the longevity and flake pop up? Could this sealent alter the wet look finish of RMG + YMCW + CMW?


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

Finally, I'll go for a try :

1 coat of CMW tonight + 1 coat tomorrow
1 or 2 coats of Optiseal 15 minutes after the 2nd coat of CMW
1 coat of Z8 over Optiseal

Am I doing right?


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

kmeleon, what makes you think that you should leave the wax on the surface for 24 hours?


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

Bence said:


> kmeleon, what makes you think that you should leave the wax on the surface for 24 hours?


Just read here and elsewhere that the wax needs to cure for more or less 1 day. Is it too long?


----------



## CliveP (Feb 1, 2009)

m0bov said:


> CMW = LSP Wax
> YCW = Glaze/Wax NOT an LSP
> RMG = Glaze no abrasives
> VMHG = Glaze/Wax WITH abrasives not an LSP
> ...


Hi, I've been trying to find all the above on cleanmycar but they don't seem to stock all of them. I particular fancy the Dark Car combo you suggest (and previously recommended (without YCW) to me by the Doctor). Is RMG (Red Moose Glaze) only available in the machine format (which I can see on cleanmycar but not 'hand' format)?
Would appreciate a link to somewhere stocking RMF, YCW (still not certain which this is) and CMW......or ideally find out Tim has them all at cleanyourcar.

Regards,
Clive.


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

CliveP said:


> Hi, I've been trying to find all the above on cleanmycar but they don't seem to stock all of them. I particular fancy the Dark Car combo you suggest (and previously recommended (without YCW) to me by the Doctor). Is RMG (Red Moose Glaze) only available in the machine format (which I can see on cleanmycar but not 'hand' format)?
> Would appreciate a link to somewhere stocking RMF, YCW (still not certain which this is) and CMW......or ideally find out Tim has them all at cleanyourcar.
> 
> Regards,
> Clive.


Detailedobsession and CYC should have them all. YMCW is for Yellow moose cream wax. RMG can be used either by machine or by hand.


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

Yes they are all available at Cleanyourcar.

The red moose is marketed as a machine glaze but can be used by hand as well as long as your prepared to really work it into the paint using the right technique. The yellow cream wax is in the wax section despite being more of a glaze than a true wax and its the Carnauba Moose Wax that you want NOT the 'Moose Wax'.


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

kmeleon said:


> Just read here and elsewhere that the wax needs to cure for more or less 1 day. Is it too long?


There is a significant difference between setting/hazing and curing.



After the wax/sealant application, the carrier solvents start to evaporate, the first chemical reactions start, as the chemical hazes over. 
The main principle of waxing (in everyday practice) is always the method of overwaxing the surface (to ensure proper coverage), then remove the unwanted haze - leaving a glossy wax layer underneath. More experienced people can apply LSPs so thin that the layer is virtually invisible. It's the best method to avoid waste, but needs a meticulous approach.

So, the time after application but before removal is called setting time.

Curing starts as the wax layer is established on the surface and you removed the haze. Most waxes are technically blends, containing natural and synthetic ingredients. The curable synthetics start to crosslink to the substrate, ensuring a stable, relatively hard bond of the LSP.

Curing is the time until the LSP reaches its most stable, and *hardest* state. A wax/sealant is a sacrifical barrier which starts to degrade in the moment as you finished removing it. It fights with the elements, temperatures, mechanical abrasion, etc.

So, regarding CMW, you can apply it WOWO, but you can leave it on the surface and remove later. Both methods are very easy as the CMW is a forgiving product in this regard. After setting you can remove it and leave it curing for at least 12-24 hours and you can apply the next layer.


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

Bence said:


> There is a significant difference between setting/hazing and curing.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Done! The second coat of CMW was applied WOWO yesterday. After 1h, I applied Optiseal to seal the different layers under. I hope it will not alter the wet mirror look of the combo RMG, YMCW and CMW.


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

kmeleon said:


> Done! The second coat of CMW was applied WOWO yesterday. After 1h, I applied Optiseal to seal the different layers under. I hope it will not alter the wet mirror look of the combo RMG, YMCW and CMW.


I would of left the CMW at least 24 hours before applying anything over the top. The reason being,CMW sweats quite badly and i never fail to have a light cloudy coating over the paint the next day after using it. This gassing out of the solvents is usually easily removed using a touch of QD and a soft MF cloth. Since youve applied a sealant over the top it may not allow the CMW to fully cure.


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

The Doctor said:


> I would of left the CMW at least 24 hours before applying anything over the top. The reason being,CMW sweats quite badly and i never fail to have a light cloudy coating over the paint the next day after using it. This gassing out of the solvents is usually easily removed using a touch of QD and a soft MF cloth. Since youve applied a sealant over the top it may not allow the CMW to fully cure.


I left 24 hours between the 1st coat of CMW and the second one. Then, 1:30 later, I applied Optiseal.


----------



## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

*is this any good?*

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/compl...ote-hand-polish-and-protect-kit/prod_195.html

How is this kit on a pearl blue r32?


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

kmeleon said:


> I left 24 hours between the 1st coat of CMW and the second one. Then, 1:30 later, I applied Optiseal.


You will have to see how it looks in the next day or two. You may find in direct sunlight you have a hologram effect or a patchy look where the solvents from the CMW are trapped under the sealant.


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

OOS migrates through the wax, so there will be no problems with it.

CMW contains synthetic ingredients, so it seals as well by itself. I haven't experienced holos or sweating with it.


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

Bence said:


> OOS migrates through the wax, so there will be no problems with it.
> 
> CMW contains synthetic ingredients, so it seals as well by itself. I haven't experienced holos or sweating with it.


Are you sure you dont mean Moose wax? There is the Moose Wax which contains synthetics and the Carnauba Moose Wax which we are talking about.

Carnauba Moose Wax sweats badly and im not the only one who thinks so. After 24 hours of application i can be certain ill have a light cloudy film left over the paintwork.


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

I mean the white liquid, which sloshes around in the pint bottle unusually... 

Yes, of course the CMW. 

As said I've never experienced any sweating or holos with it, in fact I have two complete coats on my car now. The first had QS over it, but nothing on the second layer.


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

Weird! As i said i normally always get solvent sweating after using the CMW. Infact i posted about this in a thread and had loads of replys from people saying they had experienced the exact same thing. 

Also you mention it has synthetics in it. How do you know that? Not trying to say your wrong or right but i was under the impression it was the Moose Wax that contains the synthetics and the Carnauba Moose Wax was petroleum based.


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

Moose Wax is like an AIO. A complex but very good product. 

With the CMW, just feel its slickness after application and a day after. Night and day difference; it's slick as snot because the curable synthetics already had gone through the process of crosslinking and they ensure a slickness level characteristic of synthetics. 

Technically the Collies are carnaubas, but they have s#hitloads of synthetic ingredients too, which give them their durability. Everett specifies 6 months durability for the CMW, and while I don't know its true longevity, it's a very solid, tough product. And you can't do it with just carnauba and oils...


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

Bence said:


> Moose Wax is like an AIO. A complex but very good product.
> 
> With the CMW, just feel its slickness after application and a day after. Night and day difference; it's slick as snot because the curable synthetics already had gone through the process of crosslinking and they ensure a slickness level characteristic of synthetics.
> 
> Technically the Collies are carnaubas, but they have s#hitloads of synthetic ingredients too, which give them their durability. Everett specifies 6 months durability for the CMW, and while I don't know its true longevity, it's a very solid, tough product. And you can't do it with just carnauba and oils...


Interesting! Thanks for your input into it. I did aways wonder about its durability as its quite poor beading water. I guess its another example that beading does not equal protection.


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

Yes, it's strange as it beads irregularly, but still, it beads.

Japs are making hydrophilic coatings and they don't bead at all.


----------



## needhampr (Feb 13, 2006)

It's the lack of beading which has in the past put me off using the stuff. Daft I know, but it's nice to see your wax doing it's job and when it may require a top up. I struggled to identify when it needed a further coat and also gauge it's true durability. Nothing worse than your LSP falling away and then losing your 'filling' AIO underneath.


----------



## kmeleon (Jun 28, 2008)

The Doctor said:


> Are you sure you dont mean Moose wax? There is the Moose Wax which contains synthetics and the Carnauba Moose Wax which we are talking about.
> 
> Carnauba Moose Wax sweats badly and im not the only one who thinks so. After 24 hours of application i can be certain ill have a light cloudy film left over the paintwork.


Yes, even a few minutes after the layering of the CMW, a light cloudy film appears on the body. I just wiped it off. I don't know if this is what you are talking about.


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

Dunno, usually I leave it on the fiish for about 15-20 minutes then wipe off. No film.

How much do you use? Its spreadability is not the greatest, so for me it's predestined for machine application. I'm using about 0.7-1 ounce for a midsize car by hand and 0.3-0.7 ounce with a DA application. Amounts can be reduced slightly with a QD primed applicator. I can wipe the CMW on basically only once to cover the surface, because as soon as I want to work it lightly into the surface I'm already removing it. It sets very quickly and always extremely easy to remove.

When it settles, there is about 1mm oil on the top of the wax.

I do usually 3 coats from an ounce of the really spreadable liquids such as Colli 845, Meg's #21 or Z2Pro.

Oh, and it can be applied *invisibly* thin (literally), and such application establishes a sufficient wax film on the surface; it's just not as satisfying.


----------



## bleached (May 3, 2007)

It might be that we usually have higher temps down here, but never experienced that 'cloudy' effect with CMW.


----------



## VIPER (May 30, 2007)

I always got the light hazy film on the car the next day after using CMW, and I've written about a few times on here, only the other day actually:- http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=117201

Not a problem as it easily wipes off, but it does do it, and it's the only wax I've noticed it with.


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

Bence said:


> Moose Wax is like an AIO. A complex but very good product.
> 
> With the CMW, just feel its slickness after application and a day after. Night and day difference; it's slick as snot because the curable synthetics already had gone through the process of crosslinking and they ensure a slickness level characteristic of synthetics.
> 
> Technically the Collies are carnaubas, but they have s#hitloads of synthetic ingredients too, which give them their durability. Everett specifies 6 months durability for the CMW, and while I don't know its true longevity, it's a very solid, tough product. And you can't do it with just carnauba and oils...


Sorry to bring this up but i had the CMW out the other day and looking on the label it states that it does not contain any polymers or artificial ingredients (synthetics).

Are Clearkote actually lying?


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

Smell it. Does it smell good or natural? No. Fruity? No.

BUT petroleum distillates can be classified as natural, since fossil fuels and its derivatives are technically *natural*.

And you have to emulsify the actives, keep them in the emulsion, you need solvents etc. Complex question and without knowing the exact (proprietary) composition of the wax, we won't know more...


----------



## maesal (Nov 24, 2005)

I agree with you Bence, it smells like petroleum.
Cheers my friend !!


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

Cheers Mario!


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

Of course it does smell like petroleum but petroleum is not polymers nor is it synthetic as we discussed earlier in the thread. Im just trying to get to the bottom of how you know it has polymers and synthetics in it when the label states it does not.

Not wanting to start an argument about it,just seems funny how Clearkote state no polymers or synthetics on the label. I cant see what they would gain by that. It also states no silicones so do we assume the product does contain silicones as well?

Also i still maintain that the stuff develops a light cloudy looking film over the paint as it cures. I tried it again the other day using as thin as possible and sure enough the next morning i had this cloudy layer all over the car which needed wiping off with QD. 

Still,its a great product and leaves a lovely wet look if you dont mind the little extra wipe down next day.


----------



## Bence (Dec 21, 2006)

Yes, OK, but it gets significantly slicker the next day, so there must be a an aminofunctional, curable ingredient in it. And that's not natural.

And of course it can react differently on different paints, even on different panels, especially bonnets.


----------



## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

The Doctor said:


> This stuff never fails to impress me on red. I have recently bought some Swissvax Best Of Show and i cannot pretend it give the results that the Clearkote stuff does. Ive also tried Vic's Concours,Collinite 476,Petes 53 and P21s. Nothing even comes close to the Clearkote. The gloss is so deep and wet looking along with great clarity.
> 
> Im just glad i didnt pay 120 quid for the BOS because i would be seriously disappointed that it doesnt compete with a 15 quid tub of liquid wax.


I agree with about what you said in swissvax Bos I'm very disappointed also.
my best waxes now is victoria wax for dark and light colour .
p21s very nice wax for light speacaliy for silver .

Im going to try ClearKote soon!


----------



## The Doctor (Sep 11, 2007)

MAXI-MILAN said:


> I agree with about what you said in swissvax Bos I'm very disappointed also.
> my best waxes now is victoria wax for dark and light colour .
> p21s very nice wax for light speacaliy for silver .
> 
> Im going to try ClearKote soon!


When i say disappointed i dont mean by the overall performance of BOS. I think it is a very good product and does leave a nice finish but i would expect a lot more from it considering the price. Luckily i got a full tub of BOS very cheap.

You will love the Clearkote. Very wet,deep and reflective. Better finish than Vics Concours and BOS IMO on dark colours.

I also have P21S but like you say better for light colours its too bright looking for darker colours :thumb:


----------



## MAXI-MILAN (Oct 26, 2008)

The Doctor said:


> When i say disappointed i dont mean by the overall performance of BOS. I think it is a very good product and does leave a nice finish but i would expect a lot more from it considering the price. Luckily i got a full tub of BOS very cheap.
> 
> You will love the Clearkote. Very wet,deep and reflective. Better finish than Vics Concours and BOS IMO on dark colours.
> 
> I also have P21S but like you say better for light colours its too bright looking for darker colours :thumb:


Doctor , Bos overall performance is good . but when Compare prices and results you will find better cohices .

victoria Vs Clearkote >>Have you found a big difference between them?
I hope the clearkote wax easyon -easyoff product.


----------



## Boris Vassilief (Apr 29, 2008)

MAXI-MILAN said:


> I hope the clearkote wax easyon -easyoff product.


It's a doddle to use.


----------



## domino (Apr 19, 2010)

bumping this thread

im a huge fan of CK RMG + VMG used as a cleaner glaze, in fact out of all my cleaners/glazes, it gives me the deepest wettest finish on black

i just bought YCW as ive always wanted to try it with CMW

my question for your CK fans, atm my car is wearing CK RMG/VMG + 3 layers of Lusso Oro still beading well. I really want to give the YCW + CMW a shot as ive yet to see how it looks on solid black in the flesh

Could i simply wipe the YCW over the lusso, then top with CMW, or should i just spend the extra time going over the car again with CK RMG/VMG?


----------



## m0bov (May 2, 2007)

I would start from scratch to get the full effect. I apply RMG and YCW via da.


----------



## domino (Apr 19, 2010)

yeh same here with the DA (G220), work RMG/VMG into the paint till its almost gone

im even applying paste waxes now with my DA - theres too much paint on the GTR for hand app


----------

