# Wet sanding guide for light scratches



## devonutopia (May 29, 2006)

This might prove useful to someone. Small guide on how I got some nasty looking (but thankfully not too deep) scratches from a bonnet/wing.

Was like this:-



Started on a mark like this



Using a small rubber block (as in an eraser for rubbing out pencil on paper) I gently applied 1200 grit, 2000 grit and 2500 grit wet & dry to the area affected - all done with the wet & dry soaked in water for some time before. I used the narrow end of the eraser too for greater accuracy. Paint depths were checked along the way - that is fairly critical!



and finally polished using "the usual" technique, starting with cutting compound and working up to smoother polishes.

Gone



Worked a treat so I hope others have similarly good results on their own motors. :thumb:


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## luc4s (Aug 5, 2011)

Great job mate  Well done


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## Vote 4 Pedro (Jul 6, 2013)

I need to do this on the wife's Focus but at seems a scary thing to do 

Suppose it's like anything if you haven't done it before.


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## devonutopia (May 29, 2006)

Vote 4 Pedro said:


> Suppose it's like anything if you haven't done it before.


There is a first time for everything. I was lucky in a way as a couple of years back I was borrowing a mate's old MX5 which had some dodgy paint and he basically said "practice all you want" - I don't need inviting twice. 

Anyway, the scariest thing is always the scuffing after the sanding, but you need to look beyond that and as long as when paint is soaking wet you can see good reflection, it should come up nice in the end once dry & polished.


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## Summit Detailing (Oct 9, 2006)

What polishes did you use to remove the sanding marks?:buffer: 
The only reason I ask is that there is still a visible line going left2right in your after picture.


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## devonutopia (May 29, 2006)

I suspect that's more the camera. (I admit I can't even see a line :O) I took it after just the cutting compound stage using a wool pad, so it wasn't the final final shot, just enough to show the scratch itself was gone. Subsequent polishing done using MZ fast gloss and SRP.

Also, I should add this wasn't a "detail" in the sense many might think - It was scratch removal (to an acceptable standard) and nothing more.


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## Summit Detailing (Oct 9, 2006)

devonutopia said:


> I suspect that's more the camera. (I admit I can't even see a line :O) I took it after just the cutting compound stage using a wool pad, so it wasn't the final final shot, just enough to show the scratch itself was gone. Subsequent polishing done using MZ fast gloss and SRP.
> 
> Also, I should add this wasn't a "detail" in the sense many might think - It was scratch removal (to an acceptable standard) and nothing more.


Aha I see, ok.
One other question, did you not refine:buffer: after using fast gloss? SRP would not remove the marring caused by FG & being very filler heavy may well have masked it. The true finish coming to light in the near future once the effects of SRP have diminished.


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## Page206 (Jun 13, 2011)

great job. 
might give it a go


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## Chris_911 (Jul 31, 2013)

Well worth doing IMHO.

It always surprises me just how little paint wet sanding removes - if you go slowly and carefully.


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## Matty77 (Nov 7, 2012)

Where did you get your small rubber block? Or did you actually use a pencil eraser tip?


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## PaulN (Jan 17, 2008)

Good work, hardly a guide though......


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## Tidenuparxei (May 17, 2012)

Nice work mate!!!


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