# Best ceramic coating



## Tommy Corsa

As above what do you recommend


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## Alan W

You really need to be more specific than ‘best ceramic coating’ if want to receive meaningful recommendations  and the following information would assist members to reply:

What is your budget?
Will you apply the coating yourself or employ a professional to apply?
Can you protect from rain for 12/24 hours?
What do you want from the coating?

Alan W


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## steelghost

A further question would be: What is the condition of the paint on your vehicle? (as coatings are semi-permanent, any paint imperfections would be sealed in for at least a year)


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## beatty599

Personally I think Gtechniq is the best for product life, protection, shine and water hydrophobicity. But it is unforgiving to work with.


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## Deje

Gtechniq, Tac, CQUK, wondering if these are equal, maybe even the same manufacturer?

Tac and CQ, I'm pretty sure is the same.


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## Shogun

there is no best ceramic coating becouse there is no comparisation between product.
if somebody used g tech he will say that g tech is the best, if some use c quartz..., and so on


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## Moet1974

And by the way if Tommy Corsa replies I would be happy to advise him on the best way forward in terms of the appropriate coating! :thumb:


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## Alex L

Deje said:


> Gtechniq, Tac, CQUK, wondering if these are equal, maybe even the same manufacturer?
> 
> Tac and CQ, I'm pretty sure is the same.


Look to ADS for Gtec


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## pantypoos

Alex L said:


> Look to ADS for Gtec


Are they the same products?

I have some ADS products but struggling to get application instructions, so if the products are the same i can look to Gtecniq for advice.


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## Deje

pantypoos said:


> Are they the same products?
> 
> I have some ADS products but struggling to get application instructions, so if the products are the same i can look to Gtecniq for advice.


That's a bit of difference how they should be applied here as I have understood it, Gtch be wiped off immediately after application, Tac and CQ want to fist flash then wiped away.
Tac and CQ, wait 30-60 seconds, depending on temperature, then wipe off, so I do anyways.
Yes, the difference is quite a fine line


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## Darlofan

pantypoos said:


> Are they the same products?
> 
> I have some ADS products but struggling to get application instructions, so if the products are the same i can look to Gtecniq for advice.


Just sent you a pm.:thumb:


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## Alfieharley1

ADS application instructions are completely different. If you PM me with the ADS products you have I have the instructions all documented


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## beatty599

Alex L said:


> Look to ADS for Gtec


I heard Gtech and Carbon Collective were the same, but Gtech are cheaper


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## Alasar

beatty599 said:


> I heard Gtech and Carbon Collective were the same,


No. they are different.


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## Alasar

Tommy Corsa said:


> As above what do you recommend


From cheap to expensive:
CQUK
Carbon Colective Oracle
Gtechnig CSL +EXO
Everglass Platinum procoat + topcoat
Ceramic Pro 9H+Light


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## wish wash

Kamikaze miyabi+ kamikaze ism


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## Alex L

beatty599 said:


> I heard Gtech and Carbon Collective were the same, but Gtech are cheaper


I was under the understanding that Exo and Sicko used to be one and the same, unsure of the rest. Everyone had a Cancoat type product which all came frome the same place.


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## Alan W

Alex L said:


> I was under the understanding that Exo and Sicko used to be one and the same, unsure of the rest. Everyone had a Cancoat type product which all came frome the same place.


It was ArtDeNano Alex rather than Sicko. 

Alan W


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## Alasar

also Carbon Collective Oracle very close to kamikaze icm and japan ecocoat 7000


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## Alex L

Alan W said:


> It was ArtDeNano Alex rather than Sicko.
> 
> Alan W


Thats the one, I knew it was one of them.


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## -Raven-

wish wash said:


> Kamikaze miyabi+ kamikaze ism


Yep, two stunning coatings, and such an awesome combo when used together!

Certainly a cut above all the others, these are truly quality coatings.


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## Alasar

But not durable against hi ph washes. In hard variable conditions works like shine expensive silant.)


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## -Raven-

Alasar said:


> But not durable against hi ph washes. In hard variable conditions works like shine expensive silant.)


I've found it extremely durable and lasts awesome against both caustic truck wash and acidic water spot removers which degrade most other coatings. 20 months plus and it was perfect on my own Lexus, and it's still perfect months and months on my WRX. It's fairing better than most on my test panel too. 

ISM has been the hardest coating I've ever had to remove - 20 months on the Lexus and I had to smash it off with M100 with Rupes blue and LC yellow. The coating was still perfect.

You might want to rethink your prep and / or application method of your coatings if you think it's an expensive sealant! :lol:


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## Teufel

-Raven- said:


> I've found it extremely durable and lasts awesome against both caustic truck wash and acidic water spot removers which degrade most other coatings. 20 months plus and it was perfect on my own Lexus, and it's still perfect months and months on my WRX. It's fairing better than most on my test panel too.
> 
> ISM has been the hardest coating I've ever had to remove - 20 months on the Lexus and I had to smash it off with M100 with Rupes blue and LC yellow. The coating was still perfect.
> 
> You might want to rethink your prep and / or application method of your coatings if you think it's an expensive sealant! :lol:


Did you use ISM only or Miyabi + ISM ?

Found ism very easy to remove as you can see the paint work getting lighter .
But miyabi seems pretty hard .


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## -Raven-

Teufel said:


> Did you use ISM only or Miyabi + ISM ?
> 
> Found ism very easy to remove as you can see the paint work getting lighter .
> But miyabi seems pretty hard .


Straight ISM.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=387342


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## -Raven-

But then again, I applied it in optimal hot temps and humidity, let it cure properly, didn't get it wet when curing, and didn't start washing it before fully cured. Works wonders when you follow basic instructions. :thumb:


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## Alan W

-Raven- said:


> But then again, I applied it in optimal hot temps and humidity, let it cure properly, didn't get it wet when curing, and didn't start washing it before fully cured. Works wonders when you follow basic instructions. :thumb:


I followed the same basic application procedure and have had 18 months so far (applied August 2015) from ISM on my TT with no sign of performance drop of yet. :thumb:

To be honest I don't know why you wouldn't follow instructions carefully when using an expensive product to ensure you got the best performance and durability from it. 

Alan W


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## Alex L

Like most things detailing, hyped like nothing else, then dropped by the way side due to something better/cheaper or easier.

I never really got on with the ADS stuff.


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## Bill58

wish wash said:


> Kamikaze miyabi+ kamikaze ism


Agree with this, fantastic coatings:thumb:


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## Alasar

-Raven- said:


> But then again, I applied it in optimal hot temps and humidity, let it cure properly, didn't get it wet when curing, and didn't start washing it before fully cured. Works wonders when you follow basic instructions. :thumb:


A lot of conditions.

I have tested this icm and may say that this coating is not durable in my environment.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=374417


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## Alan W

Alasar said:


> I have tested this icm and may say that this coating is not durable in my environment.
> 
> http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=374417


Kamikaze ISM Coat takes 7 days before it is fully cured and you put your test panel out in the rain after 3 days and started washing it after 5 days as your Post 11 and Post 12 of your durability test. 

I appreciate you are trying to duplicate the length of time a detailer would have before returning a car to a customer. However, whilst you do not have control over when it rains you do have control over when the car is first washed and ISM has not fully cured after only 5 days to start washing it and this has compromised the durability of the coating in my opinion.

Alan W


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## ronwash

I also got 16 months of Miyabi+ISM,still as first day!.


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## sm81

Any Overcoat top ups?


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## Alan W

sm81 said:


> Any Overcoat top ups?


No, just ISM Coat on polished and panel wiped paint for me. 

Alan W


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## dave-g

Hes not selling it on here though.. Merely showing somebody the product on an eBay listing. Which has its on rules...


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## Alasar

Alan, do you really think that there is a difference in the 5 or 7 days? )
A couple of years ago I have tested a lot coatings delayed up to 14 days (sellers said that the coating "should" dry 2 weeks). As a result, as shown by the tests, these delay do not help these coatings. If coating not durable after 5 days - it will not durable and after 7 or 14.


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## Alan W

Alasar said:


> Alan, do you really think that there is a difference in the 5 or 7 days? )


Alasar,

Kamikaze state the coating takes 7 days to fully cure and not 5 days so the additional 2 days must be important to the curing process in my opinion.

How else can you explain the lack of durability you obtain compared with the durability that Raven, Ronwash and myself have all achieved to date, and still counting. Your environment is not that different from Scotland where I am so how else do you explain your poor durability especially when Kamikaze quote 24 - 36 months for ISM Coat.

As I said in my previous post I don't understand why people don't follow the manufacturers application instructions to the letter especially when using expensive products. Surely the manufacturer knows best having spent considerable time and effort testing their product for optimum performance including maximum durability.

I am sorry if you're not achieving the expected durability in your extensive tests and, with the greatest respect, I think you need to analyse your application technique further.

Alan W


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## Alasar

Alan, I very disappointed that you did not read what I had wrote. I have tested many coating with delay 7 days and 14 days too. Manufactures not professionals. They are sellers. And You are speaking like a seller, not like professional detailer. And I very happy for you if this cheap japanese coating that you bought x5 or x10 of original price (50$ for 200ml) works best for you. )

If your coating works best 24-36 months, imagine how long will be work other more durable coatings. - Gtechniq CSL+Exo, Ceramic Pro and others.

And your words without facts look like PR. Any video proofs. Anything. Only words.


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## Alan W

Alasar,

I am sorry if you do not believe the durability that I, and others, are achieving with ISM Coat but I do not lie.

*You have taken offence to a post that was only ever intended to try and help you identify what you might be doing wrong.*

I will end by saying that your test panel got wet from rain after 3 days so this would also have a very negative effect on the ultimate durability you got from your coatings.

I rest my case on your durability issues and will say no more.

Alan W


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## bigmac3161

Ism is still as good as new on mine after 12 months. Guess the good old British weather likes ism more the European lot.


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## Alasar

Alan W said:


> Alasar,
> 
> I am sorry if you do not believe the durability that I, and others, are achieving with ISM Coat but I do not lie.
> 
> *You have taken offence to a post that was only ever intended to try and help you identify what you might be doing wrong.*
> 
> I will end by saying that your test panel got wet from rain after 3 days so this would also have a very negative effect on the ultimate durability you got from your coatings.
> 
> I rest my case on your durability issues and will say no more.
> 
> Alan W


Why would I be offended, I'm not a dummy, who has decided to shorten the delay time for a reason. everything has an explanation. And then I blush in front of a client who takes his car in the rain.


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## Moet1974

Alasar said:


> Alan, I very disappointed that you did not read what I had wrote. I have tested many coating with delay 7 days and 14 days too. Manufactures not professionals. They are sellers. And You are speaking like a seller, not like professional detailer. And I very happy for you if this cheap japanese coating that you bought x5 or x10 of original price (50$ for 200ml) works best for you. )
> 
> If your coating works best 24-36 months, imagine how long will be work other more durable coatings. - Gtechniq CSL+Exo, Ceramic Pro and others.
> 
> And your words without facts look like PR. Any video proofs. Anything. Only words.


Cheap Japanese coating. Really!!! Kamikaze comes in at £75 for Myabi and £105 for ISM. That's not cheap in our world. However pound for pound or euro for euro these coatings are the best I've come across. If you can buy a coating that ticks all boxes from ease of application, durability and aesthetic looks Kamikaze scores at least 9.5 on all. Alan's opinion is based purely on the performance of these products only. It only took a 10 minute conversation with Alan to understand his unequivocal approach to any detailing product. To suggest PR is a factor is a massive misunderstanding on your behalf.


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## Alasar

I'm already too lazy to explain something. My opinion remains the same. Because it is based on more then 50 tested coatings.
Try Carbon collective Oracle at first and compare with your favorite.


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## sm81

Alasar maybe means that You are able to buy some japanese coatings 4-5 time cheaper.


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## -Raven-

Alasar said:


> Why would I be offended, I'm not a dummy, who has decided to shorten the delay time for a reason. everything has an explanation. And then I blush in front of a client who takes his car in the rain.


So all your testing is conducted on uncured coatings? :tumbleweed:

If you can't even get the basics right, how can people ever take your results seriously?


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## wish wash

Alasar. While I can appreciate the effort that went into the test, I can see flaws. Most coatings take days to fully cure, that's why it's advised to not wash the car for at least a week. If you've washed it with a high APC after a few days there's no dowt your going to be drastically changing the finish. Why go to all that effort to just wash it off before it's fully cured.


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## Alasar

Imagine the situation. Deep Autumn. It sleets. Car through the day becomes very dirty. At this temperature, the coating will not dry and in the month. If you do not wash your car, this dirt will stick in fresh coating so that you then get tired of it clean. Also this dirt simply will "eat" your coating. Your actions?


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## Shogun

Curing time for csl+exov2


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## Alasar

-Raven- said:


> So all your testing is conducted on uncured coatings? :tumbleweed:
> 
> If you can't even get the basics right, how can people ever take your results seriously?


Not all my testings with short delay and witj extreme washes.

My basics - its real life situations. Detailers will understand what I mean. Not warm bunny conditions after which you will try to find excuses.


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## Alasar

Shogun said:


> Curing time for csl+exov2


12 hours. If raining 24-48 hours.


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## -Raven-

Alasar said:


> Imagine the situation. Deep Autumn. It sleets. Car through the day becomes very dirty. At this temperature, the coating will not dry and in the month. If you do not wash your car, this dirt will stick in fresh coating so that you then get tired of it clean. Also this dirt simply will "eat" your coating. Your actions?


Have you ever heard of IR lamps?



Alasar said:


> Not all my testings with short delay and witj extreme washes.
> 
> My basics - its real life situations. Detailers will understand what I mean. Not warm bunny conditions after which you will try to find excuses.


Detailers will understand that you have to cure the coating and give it the best chance of lasting. You create these ideal conditions yourself. Not slap on a coating and send it out the door hoping that it might cure in your freezing wet conditions....

I'd hate to be paying you for a coating if this is how you operate.

All you have proven is uncured coatings don't last, and you blame the product? :wall:


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## Alasar

-Raven- said:


> Have you ever heard of IR lamps?


Did you work with IR Lamps actually? And compared cured coating with uncured? I think no.


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## Alasar

-Raven- said:


> I'd hate to be paying you for a coating if this is how you operate.


That's all you can say?

I do not working with no durable coatings like yours.


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## Alasar

-Raven- said:


> Detailers will understand that you have to cure the coating and give it the best chance of lasting. You create these ideal conditions yourself. Not slap on a coating and send it out the door hoping that it might cure in your freezing wet conditions....


What your suggestion? Hold the car 7 days in garage?
IR Lamps are not sufficient with it.

Now it dawned me ... are you detailer?


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## -Raven-

I stand by everything I've said. It's pretty obvious that you are doing something very wrong.


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## Alasar

As you wish.
Earlier I had a higher opinion of you.


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## sm81

Has anybody used Everglass so long that they can know will that 3 years durability will be achievable what manufacturer say.


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## sm81

sm81 said:


> Has anybody used Everglass so long that they can know will that 3 years durability will be achievable what manufacturer say.


More Everglass opinions?


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## Crockers

What does the panel think of IGL Kenzo


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## Goodfella36

As some old timers will remember on here I have tested and used lots and lots of sealants the stand out one is Max Protect Unc-R 1.5 its not cheap but it lasts great chemical resistance and the most important does not water spot like so many of the others if i wanted the best that is where my money would go... though there are easier ones for complete beginners out there.

Saw about detailers and IR lights etc many do not have them many do not give the sealants enough time to fully cure its OK when we have nice weather like we do at the moment.

Biggest advice research your detailer well. 
Learn about how pictures and angles are taken before and after shots you can always tell the average detailer nice close ups in before and far away shots or angle with lighting on afters not showing true finish and the sealant read up on it look at cure times if the detailer will be using IR lights or if it will need more time to cure in his shop before the car can be released if your paying a lot of money you want to make sure the job is done right.


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## sm81

Well said Goodfella36


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## sm81

Everglass Platinum+Top Coat after 7 months.


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## -Kev-

sm81 said:


> Everglass Platinum+Top Coat after 7 months.


Not exactly brilliant tbh...


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## sm81

-Kev- said:


> Not exactly brilliant tbh...


No, not very good but this is without degon wash. I have also noticed that Nanolex Pure Shampoo leaves some residue, even so they claim that it doesn°t


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## Doctor D

I've nothing else to compare it with, as this is my first ceramic coating (which I've maintained every 1-2 months with *Kamikaze Overcoat*) , but I've been very happy with the *Kamikaze Miyabi* and *ISM Pro* coatings applied together with *Intenso* on the glass and *Stance Rim Coat* on the alloys. 18 months and counting...

Shine on...


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## sm81

Doctor D said:


> I've nothing else to compare it with, as this is my first ceramic coating (which I've maintained every 1-2 months with *Kamikaze Overcoat*) , but I've been very happy with the *Kamikaze Miyabi* and *ISM Pro* coatings applied together with *Intenso* on the glass and *Stance Rim Coat* on the alloys. 18 months and counting...
> 
> Shine on...


Maintaining it with Overcoat will mean that your coating will last forever:lol:


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## Alasar

sm81 said:


> Everglass Platinum+Top Coat after 7 months.


sm81, Hi, are these coatings that I sent at the end of 2016? 
I think they are already out of date.

Fresh ones work a little differently.
After about 6 month - Everglass Procoat + Everglass Topcoat. 1+1


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## sm81

Alasar said:


> sm81, Hi, are these coatings that I sent at the end of 2016?
> I think they are already out of date.
> 
> Fresh ones work a little differently.
> After about 6 month - Everglass Procoat + Everglass Topcoat. 1+1
> 
> Everglass Procoat + Everglass Topcoat. 1+1


Yes they indeed are. I think that it's still behave good. More likely here was some shampoo residue left after rinsing. It beads very well after normal rain.


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