# Copper slip



## WaxIsForWinners (Feb 2, 2014)

Thinking of painting my calipers at the weekend, and also swapping my worn brakes at the same time. Do people still use/rate copper grease on the various surfaces and brake pads? Also heard that garages may have stopped using the stuff


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Shouldnt really need it.
Its the brake dust that causes the squeal.
If you clean them properly and regular then you dont have a brake dust build up do you.


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## tyreman (Jan 28, 2007)

Copper grease is a bit old school now,the stuff to use is ceratec,doesn't hurt to put a dab on the contact points when rebuilding.


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## jebus (Jun 2, 2009)

A light smear on the rear of the pads and where the pads touch the caliper would be a good idea. Its not the best stuff to have on rubber so most places will use nothing or break grease. Last time I did any of this I used copper grease on the rear of pads and the corners where they slide in the caliper. cleaned and used some silicone or red rubber grease on the sliders.

Depends what you have, some is handy keeps noises down and keeps everything moving smoothly


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## richardr (Oct 21, 2013)

Im afraid im old school and still use copper slip.

As said i just put it on the back of the pads and the edges where it touches the metal part of the caliper.

Just a little seems to do the job :thumb:


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## Jem (Aug 10, 2007)

Most brake pads now have a rubber coating on the back to prevent squeal, so there is no need for copper grease.


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## Beatman (Jun 6, 2010)

I'm the same as a few above posts, old school, copper slip for me works and has done for years


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## John-R- (Feb 4, 2007)

Still use it on the contact points of the pads etc, remember though if you use it on threads it effects the torque settings.

John


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## Monny Fan (Sep 27, 2014)

Copper slip is old school pre 2k brakes should be clean and free of any lubricant only the slides under the rubber boots should be lubricated with rubber safe lubricant on many hgv brakes you void any warranty by applying any lubricants and they stop 44t and last 300,000+km also I don't know a car manufacturer that says to lubricate anything and we attend rather a few manufacturer training courses at work


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## Talidan (Sep 2, 2014)

File down edges of pads and coppergrease for me too here, i don't understand why you wouldn't grease them.


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## Monny Fan (Sep 27, 2014)

Talidan said:


> File down edges of pads and coppergrease for me too here, i don't understand why you wouldn't grease them.


dirt and brake dust etc sticks to it also it sets when it's heated 
if you need to file the pads the pad carrier is probably dirty as they should be a straight fit


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## robby71 (Jun 4, 2006)

I use it on the wheel backs where they meet the discs - stops them seizing together


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## Talidan (Sep 2, 2014)

Monny Fan said:


> dirt and brake dust etc sticks to it also it sets when it's heated
> if you need to file the pads the pad carrier is probably dirty as they should be a straight fit


Just a havit always have done always will probably, i always clean carriers and shims, 95% of the time when i come across sticky brakes there ungreesed.


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## Monny Fan (Sep 27, 2014)

You know the paint you remove actually has a lubricant in it. 
For hubs just use a high temp grease not one containing any metal as it creates more dissimilar metals steel aluminium and copper


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## Monny Fan (Sep 27, 2014)

Talidan said:


> Just a havit always have done always will probably, i always clean carriers and shims, 95% of the time when i come across sticky brakes there ungreesed.


Shims???????? I guess you mean the spring plates and anti vibration backing plates these should normally be replaced when the pads are replaced


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## s_hosgood (Mar 18, 2007)

I just copper slip the brake discs ....


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

Is this not more of a motoring section thread ?

**** sake I can't believe we have such mixed views of grease on brakes ....


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

I greased the pads and discs on ex wifes car.
No squealing except when she hit the lorry in front.


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## phillipnoke (Apr 1, 2011)

Nothing better than it


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## Jem (Aug 10, 2007)

I don't see why people think that, 'Because that's how I've always done it' it's still right today. Brand new cars do not have copper grease on the pads so why apply it when you're fitting new pads? Most brake pads now have either a black Teflon like coating on the back of the pads or a rubber like coating. Fiat 500's even have a sticky surface so they stick to the calliper to prevent squeal.


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

Jem said:


> I don't see why people think that, 'Because that's how I've always done it' it's still right today. Brand new cars do not have copper grease on the pads so why apply it when you're fitting new pads? Most brake pads now have either a black Teflon like coating on the back of the pads or a rubber like coating. Fiat 500's even have a sticky surface so they stick to the calliper to prevent squeal.


Most not all .

A lot of the vag stuff still doesn't .... Vauxhall do . Fiat do . Some manufacturrer pads come with packets of there own grease I've noticed ?

I think with old **** and aftermarket pads you need to but with genuine stuff providing everything is cleaned properly and CALIPER it's self is ok then no reason to ...

Otherwise I do personally . Or red rubber grease ..


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## davies20 (Feb 22, 2009)

Copper slip all the nuts & bolts, back of pads & wheel nuts.

It's just the way it's done lol


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## Jem (Aug 10, 2007)

davies20 said:


> Copper slip all the nuts & bolts, back of pads & *wheel nuts*.


NO NO NO, do not put grease on wheel nuts/bolts unless you specifically know that they should be greased, which 99% of cars do not need. If you do, it affects the torque settings and effectivly you'd be over tightening the wheel bolts.


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## Ro22 (Aug 14, 2014)

Jem said:


> NO NO NO, do not put grease on wheel nuts/bolts unless you specifically know that they should be greased, which 99% of cars do not need. If you do, it affects the torque settings and effectivly you'd be over tightening the wheel bolts.


Big o'l Landy wheels need all the help they can get when you've been mud plugging lol. All though to this day I've never had a wheel come off because the stud/bolt thread has been greased, pragmatic I know but evidence based observations nonetheless.


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## davies20 (Feb 22, 2009)

Jem said:


> NO NO NO, do not put grease on wheel nuts/bolts unless you specifically know that they should be greased, which 99% of cars do not need. If you do, it affects the torque settings and effectivly you'd be over tightening the wheel bolts.


I only ever just over pinch tight the wheel nuts. Plus, saves them seizing in


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## kings.. (Aug 28, 2007)

I copper slip, grease, or locktite pretty much everything I do! if a car bike etc is going to stay in my ownership I like to ensure things are done properly and arent going to be an ass to remove should it be necessary! 

I also copper slip wheel bolts, and have done for 15+years without any problems.


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## Turkleton (Apr 18, 2010)

davies20 said:


> I only ever just over pinch tight the wheel nuts. Plus, saves them seizing in


I know how tight it feels on a dry torque when I'm doing my wheels, so can always nip before getting to that point then torque them properly.

A garage was so kind to slap copper slip all over my bolts that I nipped them, to the same sort of resistance as I would dry, and they were over tightened. 
It pissed me off because it's going to be really hard getting all the remnants of copper slips out of the threads now and if it's that easy to over tighten, then it's asking to snap a bolt or two.

Maybe I'm just pedantic, or having a dad that specialises in stress sorts of engineering has shown me the importance of these things


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## Monny Fan (Sep 27, 2014)

As a professional technician I don't see why brake parts should be sold openly to the general public as few actually know what they are doing and often fit parts incorrectly resulting in poor brakes on a lethal device. 90%of brake discs are under the recommend replacement thickness on the 1st set of pads and really can't take the wear of a 2nd set but never get measured by weekend mechanics


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## Jem (Aug 10, 2007)

Monny Fan said:


> 90%of brake discs are under the recommend replacement thickness on the 1st set of pads and really can't take the wear of a 2nd set but never get measured by weekend mechanics


I doubt the vast majority of weekend mechanics would know how to measure them!


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## marc147 (Nov 21, 2011)

I add a wee bit of copper slip onto the carrier but thats it, i dont check the thickness of my brake discs but i change mine when i change the brake pads


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## Monny Fan (Sep 27, 2014)

marc147 said:


> I add a wee bit of copper slip onto the carrier but thats it, i dont check the thickness of my brake discs but i change mine when i change the brake pads


From that statement I take it you don't check for run out either or for axial play of the calliper ??? Do you check or replace the brake fluid??


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## marc147 (Nov 21, 2011)

I thought this was about the use of copper slip not the ins and outs of vehicle maintenance but yeh i check it all, check the fuild on a weekly basis and replace the fluid bout ever year and a bit,


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## -Jamie- (Nov 6, 2012)

Monny Fan said:


> From that statement I take it you don't check for run out either or for axial play of the calliper ??? Do you check or replace the brake fluid??


Don't tar everyone with the same brush!

I do all my own work on my brakes bar fluid changes and have never checked for run out or axial play in the calliper. Discs get checked frequently for thickness though, FYI my first set of discs done 25k and 3 pairs of pads, 1 being OEM and 2 being proper track spec pads before they got binned due to cracking, Still above minimum thickness.

This is on a car that has been used hard on track for over 2 years and has over 300bhp and 350lbs ft. I haven't died yet either.

Oh yeah and i always stick a bit of copper slip on the back of the pads, Thats to try and help keep them quiet though but then i run proper race spec Carbon pads....


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## -Jamie- (Nov 6, 2012)

Jem said:


> I don't see why people think that, 'Because that's how I've always done it' it's still right today. Brand new cars do not have copper grease on the pads so why apply it when you're fitting new pads? Most brake pads now have either a black Teflon like coating on the back of the pads or a rubber like coating. Fiat 500's even have a sticky surface so they stick to the calliper to prevent squeal.


Why do EBC include "anti squeal/assembly" grease, which looks awfully familiar to copper slip, with their performance/race pads then?


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## Jem (Aug 10, 2007)

-Jamie- said:


> Why do EBC include "anti squeal/assembly" grease, which looks awfully familiar to copper slip, with their performance/race pads then?


I don't know, I don't work for EBC. Maybe you should ask them?

At a guess it maybe that EBC pads do not have the OEM type coating on the back, just plain painted metal back plate, so would need "anti squeal/assembly grease" in the absence of any coating.


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## marc147 (Nov 21, 2011)

Jem said:


> I don't know, I don't work for EBC. Maybe you should ask them?
> 
> At a guess it maybe that EBC pads do not have the OEM type coating on the back, just plain painted metal back plate, so would need "anti squeal/assembly grease" in the absence of any coating.


Everytime i have got EBC pads they come with a sort of backing on the pads


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## -Jamie- (Nov 6, 2012)

That was a genuine question btw, Not a snide question....

Fair enough, I think the pads i have referencing to may be a bit different to what 90% on here are on about, IE race spec stuff compared to OEM stuff designed to be quiet and last for a long time


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## -Jamie- (Nov 6, 2012)

marc147 said:


> Everytime i have got EBC pads they come with a sort of backing on the pads


The ones i have had also came with plastic backing plates/shims but they also came with the grease, I have always chucked the plates though and just ran them with the grease


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## marc147 (Nov 21, 2011)

-Jamie- said:


> So have the ones i have had but they also came with the grease, I have always chucked the plates though and just ran them with the grease


I got the grease aswel, it does look exactly like copper slip, i think merc or that done a test with copper slip a while back and now dont use it, they use white grease or something along they lines but am stuck in my old ways of copper slip for the brakes


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## -Jamie- (Nov 6, 2012)

Ceratec.

I only use the copper slip as I'm tight and have plenty to use up before buying something else.

If it aint broke


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## w138pbo (Jul 10, 2013)

i never use copper grease on any brake component. only ever use ceratec grease on sliders ect.

a bucket sponge and washing up liquid will clean a car dont mean its the correct way.


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## smegal (Aug 14, 2009)

I mostly use copper slip on bolts. I drive a 7 year old French car and the bolts are starting to corrode


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## dooka (Aug 1, 2006)

Copper will perish your calliper piston seals. As some have mention, Castrol Ceratec is what you want ..


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## BlackFerret (Sep 4, 2009)

Copper slip is slowly becoming a nuisance to modern cars, yes it does dry out piston seals but it's a slow process and you have to be lathering it on for it to creep onto the seals. 

More importantly though it plays merry hell with abs sensors, only takes a dot to land on the sensor and it can start getting incorrect readings. Garages then go for there automated faulty sensor reply and cost many pennies to replace it... (worst thing is the garage is normally doing the right thing they just don't know the evil of copper slip) ceratec negates all of this, if you need it at all.


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

Really as allen said you need to paint the brake pads and discs with copper slip.
paint all the bolts with it including ones you shouldnt put it on as Jem said.
Then fit the pads with Ceratec grease

While your at it you might as well add some winter protection to your tyres and paint them with copper grease as well


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Yeah and then drive it like you stole it on non gritted roads.
Livens things up a bit


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

AllenF said:


> Yeah and then drive it like you stole it on non gritted roads.
> Livens things up a bit


I was thinking perhaps protect the rubbers on the wipers and add some ceratec on there? helps the automatic rain sensor work ..


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Wipers?????? Bin em extra weight.... 
Extra weight = loss of speed.
Use rainex and drive faster.


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

AllenF said:


> Wipers?????? Bin em extra weight....
> Extra weight = loss of speed.
> Use rainex and drive faster.


You can't use that its no good at low speed.

all about the Gtech stuff.

make sure you have uni royal rain sports on with ceratec in the treads.

Ultimate wet grip . You will still spin up in 3rd though :thumb:


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Tuts.
Treads =speed loss.
Run slicks..
Much more fun cover them in ceretec =even more fun


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

AllenF said:


> Tuts.
> Treads =speed loss.
> Run slicks..
> Much more fun cover them in ceretec =even more fun


Increases the mid corner grip in the snow.

Saves on winter tyres.

Still spin up in 3rd in the rain though...


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

I use ceratec in the bedroom. Is this OK? Is it better than copper grease?


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

asonda said:


> I use ceratec in the bedroom. Is this OK? Is it better than copper grease?


That will be fine.

Copper stuff has metal components and you can end up causing problems with your sensor.

:wave:


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

Steve said:


> That will be fine.
> 
> Copper stuff has metal components and you can end up causing problems with your sensor.
> 
> :wave:


I was worried about the potential of the johnny degradation?


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

asonda said:


> I was worried about the potential of the johnny degradation?


Should be fine. Will be strong enough to stand up to the heat so all should be ok.

You can buy it in a toothpaste tube size so if the going gets deep you can always re apply.

see here : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/2716...3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108

Allen does this often I'm told.


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Huh i wish....


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

AllenF said:


> Huh i wish....


Well you can't tell me you used a whole tube on the wifes brakes?


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Yeah...
Gonna do a job do it properly.
Did get a nice even coat over all of them though.
Saved me a lot on a divorce too.. So a bargain really. Didnt like the bloody car anyway ( well nor her actually thinking about it )


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

AllenF said:


> Yeah...
> Gonna do a job do it properly.
> Did get a nice even coat over all of them though.
> Saved me a lot on a divorce too.. So a bargain really. Didnt like the bloody car anyway ( well nor her actually thinking about it )


Good work that man :thumb:


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

:driver::driver:


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## VenomUK (Oct 13, 2011)

Nothing wrong with a bit of copper slip......


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

Anyone started putting this on there winter tyres then.....


AllenF recommends it highly


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

Just thought I'd let you know I've just replaced my brakes .. I USED CERATEC


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## richardr (Oct 21, 2013)

Monny Fan said:


> From that statement I take it you don't check for run out either or for axial play of the calliper ??? Do you check or replace the brake fluid??


The last time i watched a "technician" dropping some pads in he didnt check fo run out or axial play either.

You either work for a main stealer or have just finished college at a guess


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## JwilliamsM (Dec 20, 2011)

Had my BBK fitted over a month ago, and they squeak now and then Id say about 20% of the time. 
I supplied them with a tube of ceratec to use, but I guessed they never used it. 
Took my brakes off yesterday and as I suspected the pads were dry.
Applied some ceratec to the back of the pads and they are silent now


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## uruk hai (Apr 5, 2009)

Still use it, no reason not to.


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## BlackFerret (Sep 4, 2009)

You can use copper slip to add a sweet metallic flake to your paint work, just massage 80 tubes in by hand!


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## Steve (Mar 18, 2014)

:lol:


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## AllenF (Aug 20, 2012)

Na thats way to heavy numpty.
You only want a couple of tubes to enhance the fleck


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