# Exterior plastic trim - SPRAY - Longevity



## RossyL (Sep 14, 2009)

Hi

I've got a numerous Deep Honeycomb Grills. Each honeycomb is fairly deep, to do each honeycomb would take...forever!

Example below

The majority of trim I Will Not be able to remove, it's got to be done on the car.

I'm therefore looking for something that is a bit thinner than a wipe on product, so probably Not Solution Finish.

Something that 
- I can brush on with a detailing brush, or similar.

- Doesn't need buffing to dry, as I won't be able to get into every honeycomb

- Has longevity.

Would appreciate some recommendations.

Thanks
R


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## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

How old is the car? my 2007 Fiesta has a grille in the upper and lower bumper and fog light surrounds in this style. They were a little faded and found using gentle heat with a heat gun brought them back to good as new. I really didnt fancy sitting there for hours applying Dlux like the rest of the car got. They are a kinda grey plastic rather than black on the fiesta


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## RossyL (Sep 14, 2009)

Not keen on using a heat gun, die to the location of some of the grills, also fear of messing paint work. Some grills are very small.


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## Juke_Fan (Jul 12, 2014)

What about something like the aerosol spray bumper products - believe Car Plan, Turtle Wax plus others do these.

Armor All protectant spray might also work.


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## Itstony (Jan 19, 2018)

You really need to enjoy the detail side if you do this.
All in the prep .... as always.

First serious full detail on these parts on 16yr old car.
There will be calcium, dirts and deposits.
Thorough clean and brief steps of the (mine) routine done a few times.
Power wash.
Brush in all areas with diluted HCL acid 2-3%. Best and quickest way for calcium deposits. There are other products more expensive and no better.
Power wash again and this may be repeated a few times depending.
Product used, KC Ps and suited to complicated parts with its low viscosity. 
Brush in all honeycomb parts and work in.
On grills, apply with MF around a thin a stiff strip or plastic or screwdriver if brave.
After a few hours or dry, it doesn't matter, go back over all with a MF and work and wipe off. even next day as it will only take so much.
It will do a good job and last well depending on the elements. Rain is OK, UV is the killer.
This is not the only product, just the best I have used so far and stick with it.
Hope this helps :thumb:

*** Forgot to add, Ps is silicone based and there is a Pss which is silcone free. Paint shop guys hate silicone, but Ps is better**


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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

I can't add to Itstony, that is a great explanation and Koch Chemie Plast Star (which I think he is referring to) is the product I would have advised.


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## RossyL (Sep 14, 2009)

Thanks, had no idea the product he was referring to!


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## BarryAllen (Feb 3, 2017)

I give you..........

https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/case-studies/case-study-faded-car-trim-revived-with-polytrol/

Oil Based (so has longevity)

Doesn't sit on the surface - it actually penetrates and re-wets the pigment

Is recommended to apply by brush so you could do those honeycombs with a 1 inch brush.

Is no more expensive than a a good brand dedicated dressing.

Has other uses around the house, like maybe garden furniture etc

Go on.. think outsde the box.


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## Itstony (Jan 19, 2018)

What you have explained, most of the decent ones do the same as you wrote.
The only reason I suggested a brush is for the honeycomb and complicated parts. On other exterior trim a sponge applicator is the preferred way. It will only accept a tiny amount into the trim surface. Detailed the recycling bins :lol: These are better than painting products IMHO. :thumb:


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## RossyL (Sep 14, 2009)

Thanks 

I'm surprised that the Koch Chemie PS is silicone, as everything I've read is that silicone sits on top, rather than penetrating. Therefore, it washes off.

I'm guessing that's not your experience? 

The aerosols are all silicone based buy only last a few weeks if normal use/rain.


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## RossyL (Sep 14, 2009)

BarryAllen said:


> I give you..........
> 
> https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/case-studies/case-study-faded-car-trim-revived-with-polytrol/
> 
> ...


I think I'll give that a go, thanks


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## Itstony (Jan 19, 2018)

RossyL said:


> Thanks
> 
> I'm surprised that the Koch Chemie PS is silicone, as everything I've read is that silicone sits on top, rather than penetrating. Therefore, it washes off.
> 
> ...


What is applied will not soak in on plastic, just not going to have the ability to do that of obvious reasons. Most ext trims (not all) have a dedicated treatment or application. The good products will chemically react and treat the trim.
s per my post what product left after time will need to be wiped off.
If this is not for you, you can paint or varnish and they are not the preferred for a near OEM finish we would be hoping to achieve. :thumb:


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## BarryAllen (Feb 3, 2017)

RossyL said:


> I think I'll give that a go, thanks


Another case study... actually quoting a DW member.

"Over at Detailing World we stumbled across another happy Owatrol customer using Polytrol to restore a faded car bumper. They posted this picture to show Polytrol at work:"

https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/case-studies/polytrol-restores-a-faded-car-bumper/

And here's the actual DW thread:

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=111872

And a couple of action clips:


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## RossyL (Sep 14, 2009)

BarryAllen said:


> Another case study... actually quoting a DW member.
> 
> "Over at Detailing World we stumbled across another happy Owatrol customer using Polytrol to restore a faded car bumper. They posted this picture to show Polytrol at work:"
> 
> ...


FYI - having spoken to Owatrol, I would *NOT *use Polytrol for these purposes.

Polytrol, in laymans terms, is effectively a varnish. It revives the plastic and leaves a clear hard finish.

If you are trying to use a product that dries hard on a honeycomb grill, your going to have to be very careful you do not get a single drip. The finish dries hard and will dry hard with that drip in it. It would be some task to ensure you do not get a single drip on a honeycomb grill.

If you do get a drip, I think you have to use solvents and maybe even sand it off.

It seems best used for flat surfaces.


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## BarryAllen (Feb 3, 2017)

RossyL said:


> FYI - having spoken to Owatrol, I would *NOT *use Polytrol for these purposes.
> 
> Polytrol, in laymans terms, is effectively a varnish. It revives the plastic and leaves a clear hard finish.
> 
> ...


Well... from their site (https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/polytrol/)

"Polytrol is a deep penetrating oil..."

"It penetrates the surface, re-wetting the pigments...."

"Simple to apply using a cloth or soft brush, it's ready to *wipe off* in just 10 minutes! It can be *used on both horizontal and vertical surfaces *and can even be used on fibreglass (GRP). Polytrol dries to a tough and long-lasting flexible finish* which does not leave a film - so it won't peel or flake.*

Don't sound like a varnish to me, or that it would be a mad panic to address runs / drips.

I'm in for some when my Concept Vista runs out... now that is a varnish.


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## Itstony (Jan 19, 2018)

"Polytrol is a deep penetrating oil..."
"It penetrates the surface, re-wetting the pigments...."

None will deep penetrate on plastic, only react with the surface and these do a good job too. 
As BarryAllen replied with the same.
Some will do a better job than others, that's why threads are posted to ask what work well.
If you buy and use, come back and show how it went and how long it holds up. :thumb:


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## nicks16v (Jan 7, 2009)

I wonder if this will be any good on my window weather strips ? They need to be brought back to life


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## BarryAllen (Feb 3, 2017)

If you wanted to do some additonal reading, there are loads of advocates on the American Jeep Wrangler site that love a product called "Penetrol"

Claiming 10+months on the huge plastic cowls (that sit out over the wheels) in both the Nevada Desert and the harsh Mid West winters with salt laden roads. 

As far as I can tell... it's Polytrol by another name (certainly makes the same claims) - and the MSDS shows Naptha and Linseed Oil as ingredients.

Linseed Oil will be absorbed by rubber, but apparently it re-surfaces afterwards to create a greasy surface. I assume there is some other black magic in there that accelerates the air dry because I've not read anywhere that Polytrol comes up greasy.

Few vids on Youtube for Penetrol as well.

Be lucky.


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