# Shed workbench treatment/sealant/varnish



## Lsmcdti (Aug 14, 2015)

Iv got a solid pine dining table top that im going to cut to size and use as a workbench in the shed, im going to sand it down to bare wood and wondered what i should treat it with, i was thinking yaught varnish but is that ok and would it be to glossy, it wont be used very often, just want a work bench lol so doesn't really need to withstand frequent abuse, any advice? Thanks


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## Caledoniandream (Oct 9, 2009)

Danish oil is the stuff to go for, easy to top up, resistant for scratches.


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## steveo3002 (Jan 30, 2006)

boiled linseed oil


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## Fentum (May 1, 2017)

I'd reach for either of the two oils mentioned above or proper Tung oil. 

The only driver would be what I already had sufficient quantity of in my shed. But Tung and Danish oils are quite dear.

If you need to get something in slightly cheaper, I think you can buy a varnish with a decent quantity of Tung oil in it, which would make for a durable finish.

Peter


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## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

Boiled linseed oil would have been my guess.

Won't beat wood for a working surface, dislike metal as cold and hard on hands and materials. Can't beat a good wooden work bench.


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## AndyN01 (Feb 16, 2016)

Have to agree with the oil route.

Varnish etc will come off over time, oils will soak into the wood itself.

Good luck - looking forward to the photos.

Andy.


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## Tykebike (Mar 27, 2016)

Why do you want to treat it with anything? It's going to be a WORKbench not a dining table, the in laws aren't going to wipe their finger over it and tut-tut if there is dust on it.
If you want to treat it I would avoid the varnish route as stuff will be more likely to slip about when you want them to stay still. You could of course use the rubber mesh netting to keep stuff still whilst working on it.
If you go down the oil route Pure Tung oil is very resistant to water but it has to be applied properly. Apply it with a cloth, no need for microfibre here, leave it for say 10mins and then wipe it off. The next day lightly sand it down, dust down and then repeat the application process. The old adage is apply once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year. I applied 20 coats to my turntable surround and support shelf and they look glossy.
Be careful not to leave cloths lying around scrunched up as they can self combust.


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## ollienoclue (Jan 30, 2017)

OP doesn't state what this work bench is _for_.. for all we know he could be machining prosthetic eyes or something. True, for me sanding and oiling a work-surface would be a bit OTT if all I was going to drop was dump the chainsaw on it for minor surgery again and again.

I've made heavy work benches before, stout timber frame and top and a length of angle iron along the edge will withstand most abuse. If affixing a vice be sure to add a heavier support leg directly under it or as close as possible.


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## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Agree with Caledoniandream on this one. Danish oil for me too. It's very easy to apply, just wipe on with a cloth and gives a lovely satin finish. You can lightly rub with soft wire wool between coats for a cracking finish, but this may be a bit over the top for a workbench.


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## garage_dweller (Apr 10, 2018)

Another vote for danish oil. I recently restored a couple of Ercol tables and the oil is so easy to get right. 

I did coats daily over a week, I didn’t rub down between coats with wire wool but applied the 2nd last coat with 0000 wire wool. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## baxlin (Oct 8, 2007)

Forget varnish IMO, if a typical shed's workbench, it’ll chip, scratch and soon need doing again. As I have most of a tin of teak oil in stock, I’d use that......


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## Tykebike (Mar 27, 2016)

ollienoclue said:


> OP doesn't state what this work bench is _for_.. for all we know he could be machining prosthetic eyes or something. True, for me sanding and oiling a work-surface would be a bit OTT if all I was going to drop was dump the chainsaw on it for minor surgery again and again.
> 
> I've made heavy work benches before, stout timber frame and top and a length of angle iron along the edge will withstand most abuse. If affixing a vice be sure to add a heavier support leg directly under it or as close as possible.


Tung oil or danish oil would be good for finishing prosthetic eyes!


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