# Bilt Hamber products for chassis restoration & protection



## Dr 0CD (Mar 5, 2011)

Hi guys,

My 2003 Audi S3 has covered almost 100k miles now, and I am planning on keeping it for some time yet. It has all original paintwork and I generally keep it detailed inside & out all year round.

However, underneath it's showing the obvious signs of its age and I am considering taking it off the road in the spring to fully restore the chassis & underside and replace the suspension components (shocks, springs, bushes) at the same time.

I've just started researching this and have been looking at some of the threads on here. Seems like Bilt Hamber products get a lot of good reviews and so I am considering this route.

Question is, what's the right restoration sequence & product range to use?

Presumably:
Mechanically remove any old underseal (not vigorous)
Clean & De-grease (e.g. Surfex-HD)
Treat (e.g. Deox-gel for underside or Deox-C for removable components)
Wax cavities (e.g. Dynax S50)
Paint (e.g. Electrox)

Anyone offer any advice into the sequence of steps to follow & recommended products to use?

I'm only wanting to do this once, so I want to do it properly.


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

You could also treat the underside with their waxes, including the clear wax or even their epoxy mastic. There seems to be a number of options so I guess it depends on what you want to do

I would just give them a call


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## Shug (Jul 13, 2007)

What you've got looks pretty good. Getting the underside to perfectly clean metal is the best. Being an audi it'll have zinc coating anyway, so with the underseal off you could go straight to epoxy mastic.
Their epoxy mastic has zinc in it for extra protection, but if going to bare steel you can apply electrox or etch primer first. You can coat the epoxy as well. You could use dynax ub. I went with dinitrol on my manta (partly cos ub didnt exist when I did it!) and its less sticky once cured and looks more like a paint coating.
If I was doing it now, I would use electrox, then epoxy mastic, then prob dinitrol 4941 (I think thats the number!)


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## D.Taylor R26 (Feb 5, 2012)

You could also add the clear coating of dynax-UC for the arches and springs and dampers etc.

Deox C is amazing at removing rust of parts you can remove from the car. 

Loads of great products available from B and H but there's so many it might be best calling them for all the info.


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## Mik93 (Dec 17, 2012)

Definitely get any surface rust back to clean steel, key it with sandpaper and then apply Electrox. Pur some stone chip or enamel paint over the top and apply UC wax. Put S50 cavity wax into all box sections.


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## JamesGBR (Dec 11, 2012)

Mik93 said:


> Definitely get any surface rust back to clean steel, key it with sandpaper and then apply Electrox. Pur some stone chip or enamel paint over the top and apply UC wax. Put S50 cavity wax into all box sections.


You can also use Phosphoric acid: may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.

I use it a lot on the boat rusted parts after i removed as much as possible, for prep before painting its really cheap


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## Dr 0CD (Mar 5, 2011)

Thanks for the advice, guys. Until I get under the car, I'm not sure what I'm going to find. I'm not sure whether to physically remove the existing underseal or leave it where it's good. Any suggestion?


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## lowejackson (Feb 23, 2006)

If the underside is in good condition you could just add a layer of Dynax wax, after a good clean


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