# Dry Sanding to Ceramic Coating with 3D Products - 1949 Chevy 5-Window Pickup Streetro



## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

Dry Sanding to Ceramic Coating with 3D Products - 1949 Chevy 5-Window Pickup Streetrod by Mike Phillips

Here's a video that shows the tools and products used for this project.






*Backstory*
My long-time friend Brad called me while I was at SEMA and asked if I could help do the finishing work on his custom-built, 1949 Chevy 5-Window Pickup Streetrod. Here's a picture he sent me to show the current status of the truck.










*Day 1 - Saturday - Machine Dry Sand followed by Machine Compound*

After I arrived I inspected the paint, Brad had been sanding and buffing panel at a time and then assembling the truck. His work was top-notch but there were fine tracers, (straight line sanding marks), throughout the finish and holograms left by the wool pad during the initial cutting step.

*A little story from my past - WHY you should always do a Sanding Test Spot*
Years ago I was tasked with a number of pro detailers to do the wetsand, cut and buff on a Nissan 350Z being used on a TV Pilot show. I was a little intimidated to be included with this select group of guys because they had impeccable reputations in the detailing industry. So I stayed in the background letting these other three guys take the lead in this project. After the Director said, _strike the set_, (filming was over), the four of us approached the car and inspected the condition of the paint. This 350Z had a fresh, custom paint job, in the color of a candy apple red metallic with lots of orange peel. It definitely needed to be sanded and buffed to create a show car quality finish. As I let these other guys take the lead, they decided the best thing to do would be to hand wet sand the entire car starting with #1500 sand paper.

I waited to see what they would do. I was hoping they would do what I would do. Alas... _they didn't do what I would do_, the proceeded to set-up and start hand sanding the car. I waited as long as I could and then when I could wait no longer I firmly said...

*STOP*

Not wanting to come off as though I knew more than them, I made a suggestion. I said,

_Before we sand down the entire car... how about we sand just a small section and the TEST the paint for hardness or softness by seeing what it was going to take to remove our sanding marks._

The other guys paused and then said,

_Sure we can do this._

We then sanded a section about the size of a microfiber towel on the driver's side roof and proceeded to test different pads and compounds with a rotary polisher to see if we could remove our sanding marks and if we could - what it would take.

I'm so glad we tested. We found out the fresh clear paint was incredibly hard. Yes we could get our sanding marks out but it took our most aggressive compound in our arsenal and _lots of buffing_. Mind you, this was *before* 3M Trizact, Mirka Abralon and other hi-tech, high-grit sanding *discs* were invented.

In the real-life story above - I shared the importance of doing a TEST SPOT - when undertaking any *sanding* project. Me personally - I learned this lesson maybe 10+ years previously when I was called by another guy back in Oregon to help him buff out a Ferrari he had recently painted and completely sanded down. In his situation - we could NOT get the sanding marks out and he had to repaint the entire car.

The point being, whether you're doing normal paint correction, using an AIO or undertaking a complete sand and buff job - *ALWAYS* start by doing some _testing_. Don't put yourself in a situation you cannot get out of - especially when dealing with someone else's toy. 

*Saturday Morning*
Here's the pickup stationed on a lift, clean and ready to start. I did my Test Spot to a small section of paint in the middle of the hood and after machine sanding with 3D P2500 I was able to easily remove my sanding marks using 3D 510 Premium Rubbing Compound.





































The 510 ACA Premium Rubbing Compound easily removed the sanding marks using a wool pad on a rotary polisher.










After testing the paint hardness/softness - I proceed to methodically machine dry sand the entire truck except the roof, which the owner felt looked flat, (no orange peel), and needed no further sanding.










Here you can see a portion of the driver's side of the hood machine dry sanded using 3D P2500 Flex Sanding Discs. All of the chrome and other brightwork on this truck is brand new, so to protect the chrome finish from any accidents - I taped it off using some painter's tape.










*Time to get busy... *

It's always a good idea to have a good night's sleep before undertaking sanding down someone else's streetrod. 










*Personal Protection Equipment*
Anytime you're dry sanding you should be wearing some form of dust mask or respirator to protect yourself from breathing in paint dust particles.



















*Lightweight, easy-to-control and QUIET*
The 3D Brushless DA Sander is really nice for this type of show car work. This is a 5mm free spinning random orbital sander - perfect for finish sanding for maximum D.O.I.




























When dry sanding - it's important to clean the paint particles off the face of the sanding disc often to maximize the sanding process.

Clean discs sand faster.
Clean discs reduce the risk of pigtails.
Clean discs last longer.










Here you can see a light accumulation of clearcoat paint has accumulated on the face of the P2500 sanding disc. This is NORMAL.










*Cleaning your sanding disc on-the-fly*
To clean you sanding disc on the fly, simply hold a CLEAN microfiber towel against the disc and then turn the sander of for a few seconds.



















*Buzz buzz buzz...*










*BOOM!*
She's clean and ready to get back to efficient sanding...



















The key to reducing the amount of time required for a project like this is to become a machine - no breaks, no lunch just focused work.





































Here's the front clip sanded down...














































After sanding down the front clip I proceeded to knock out all the larger panels.



















Both doors and the rear fenders and even the sides of the truck bed were all machine dry sanded.










The 3D ACA FLEX SANDING DISCS leave behind a very uniform, even sanding mark pattern that buffs out easily.










*3" Mini Sander*
After knocking out the large panels I moved onto sanding any thin panels. For this I used an old Griot's 3" Mini Polisher. I told guys for YEARS to buy one of these whey they were available not for doing paint correction work but to use for sanding. I have know idea how any body shop gets by without this tool or one like it. Like the 3D Brushless DA Sander, this is a 5mm free spinning orbital polisher only I attach an interface pad and a sanding disc and turn it into the handiest little sander you've every seen or in my case - used.





































*Clean your sanding discs often...*




























This lightweight, compact size 5mm sander is SUPER easy to control when you need to sand next to edges or raised body lines.










Here I'm able to sand around the wiper arm spindle - no problems.


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

Continued...

*Tools Used*

*3D Brushless Electric Sander*











Removes orange peel, surface texture and dirt nibs. 
 Precision balanced 5mm free spinning random orbital sander. 
 Variable speed from 4000 to 10,000 OPM. 
 Brushless Motor Technology - no brushes to wear out. 
 Lightweight, compact size - quiet operation. 
 Optimized for 3D interface pads and ACA sanding discs. 
 6" hook-n-loop backing plate with dust extraction holes. 
 Hose fitting for dust extraction via tool body with dust collector or connect to vacuum. 
 110volts/220-240volts - 350 Watts - 50/60HZ

*Remove orange peel, surface texture and dirt nibs*
The 3D Brushless Electric Sander is a perfect addition to the 3D ACA Alpha Ceramic Alumina Flex Sanding Discs. The 5mm orbit stroke for this brushless electric sander works great for knocking down orange peel and surface texture fast. The 6" backing plate together with a 3D 6" Interface Pad and the 3D ACA P1500 or P2500 Flex Sanding Discs will level paint fast.

*Show car paint*
To create the maximum D.O.I. or distinction of image so that reflections in the paint are clear and defined as though you're looking into a mirror - the paint must be perfectly flat. The 3D Brushless Electric Sander is the perfect tool for sanding custom paint jobs to level them and create a perfectly flat, smooth surface ready for compounding and polishing.

*What is it?*
Electric 5mm orbital sander.

*What does it do?*
Sands and levels paint to remove orange peel, surface texture to create a flatter, more perfect finish.
.
*When do you use it?*
After a fresh paint job to remove orange peel or match existing orange peel.

*Why use 3D Brushless Electric Sander over other options?*
When it comes to machine sanding, a lightweight powerful sander is the only way to go. This brushless sander weighs in at 2.2 pounds! This makes it easy to hold and sand both horizontal and vertical body panels. The 5mm orbit stroke is optimum for knocking down orange peel, dirt nibs and surface texture while also working perfect finishing sanding.

*3D Flex Sanding Discs*

*Alpha Ceramic Alumina Sanding Discs*

Dry sanding discs can also be used for wet sanding
Fast leveling
Uniform sanding mark pattern - buffs out quickly and completely
Anti-clogging technology
6" discs in P1500 and P25500



















*3D Interface Pads*











Flexible interface for use with sanding discs to remove orange peel.

Specifically designed for 3D Flex Sanding Discs.

Flat micro hook design reduces horizontal movement between interface and sanding discs.
Flat micro hooks and medium density foam reduces conformity for more efficient orange peel leveling.

Tuned for 3D's 5mm Electric Brushless DA Orbital Sander.

Package includes 2 interface pads.

*Maximize leveling of orange peel or surface texture!*

The 3D Interface Pads are designed specifically for the 3D ACA Flex Sanding Discs. The 3D interface pad offers the perfect balance of medium density foam rubber to smooth out the oscillating action while maintaining a flat surface to efficiently sand only the high point until they are level with the low points on the surface.

The hooks used for the sanding disc side are flat-style micro-hooks. They offer excellent attachment strength while virtually eliminating any _horizontal torsional movement_ between the sanding disc and the interface pad. The flat-style micro-hooks keeps the face of the sanding disc damn near flat against the surface. This means there's simply no "wiggle" between the interface pad and the sanding disc, which transfers the oscillating action of the sander to the surface of the paint without variation. The results are a dramatically flatter sanding action to keep the sanding where you want it - on the high points on the surface.

Non-3D interface pads will decrease sanding disc performance and increase the risk for pigtails.

Thick or soft foam interface pads or using the wrong style hook like conventional long J-hooks style, cause the sanding disc to abrade the high points and the low points at the same time so you're never truly leveling the high points but instead sanding down or taking down the entire surface equally. This wastes perfectly good paint and also wastes time.

The 3D interface pad enables the face of the sanding disc to abrade only the highest points so you can remove only the orange peel while leaving more of the lower-level paint on the surface.

Don't get caught in the misconception that all hook-n-loop styles are the same - they are not. The 3D Flex Sanding Discs are tuned and optimized for the 3D Interface pad. The last place you want to skimp or cut corners is when sanding the paint on your own car or a customer car.

*3D Interface Pads*





































*Flattening the curve...

Here's a technique tip

The 3D ACA Flex Sanding Discs are THIN on purpose. The goal when removing orange peel and other surface texture is to focus all the sanding action on the high point of the hills and valleys that make-up orange peel. The best way to do this is with thin discs - not foam backed discs like 3M Trizact or Mirka Abralon. These later two types of sanding discs are optimized for refining hand sanding marks - not so much the actual leveling step.

Because the 3D Flex Sanding Discs are THIN - in the box they tend to curl-up and this can make it tedious to stick them CENTERED onto an interface pad. So I came up with a hack to flatten them out.



















Don't laugh - it worked great! Maybe in the future we'll come out with a 3D Disc Weight. Kind of like a paper weight only the right size and weight to flatten out the discs in the box.

*


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

Continued....

*Saturday afternoon*

*Removing sanding marks*
Time to start compounding to remove all the sanding marks. So far, so good. No mistakes made after sanding down the entire truck. Knock on a wood bed. 

*3D 510 ACA Premium Rubbing Compound*
To remove all the sanding marks I used the top shelf compound in the 3D line-up, which is the 510 ACA Premium Rubbing Compound. This Alpha Ceramic Alumina compound was introduced this year, (2021), and specifically formulated to work fast on hard clearcoats. If it will work fast on hard clearcoats it will work fast on all types of paints from soft to medium. This is a low dusting, long buffing easy-wipe-off compound that can be used with either wool or foam pads on rotary polisher or orbital polishers.

*FLEX Cordless PE14*
This is without hesitation my favorite rotary polisher. It has all the power you need and expect from a corded rotary but the benefit of not having to deal with a cord. Because it has precision machined stainless steel gears unlike most rotary polishers, which have inexpensive, mass produced stamped steel gears - it's VERY quite. It's also lightweight and compact in size and with a little time behind the tool you can literally make it dance on paint.



















*3D EZ-Switch Backing Plate System*

*Surgical Buffing*
For the thin panels, hard to reach areas and intricate work I've switched over to the 3D EZ-Switch Quick Disconnect with a 3" 3D backing plate and 3.5" lambswool pad. I've also switched over to my #2 corded FLEX PE14 because it has a 5/8" thread spindle, which mates to the 3D Quick Disconnect. My cordless PE114 is a prototype - HAND BUILT by FLEX and given to me at SEMA before the official launch of production tools. It has a 14mm thread spindle.



















After knocking out all the higher, horizontal surfaces, next I tackle the vertical panels.










YEARS ago I wrote an article based upon my own work-ethic titled,

*If it has paint it gets polished* -

I'm always happy to see other detailers share this as their own work ethic.  Point being, I never skip any part of the vehicle. If it has paint - it gets polished.










*FLEX = BEST BATTERY TECHNOLOGY*
Besides being quiet and lightweight - the FLEX cordless tools have the BEST battery technology among all cordless polishers. I know a lot of guys opt for tools that cost half as much thinking they're saving money while getting the same "type" of tool only to find out - the battery charge doesn't last near as long. It takes a LOT longer to re-charge a dead battery and you only get about half the cycle life of a FLEX battery. Quality doesn't cost money - it makes money.



















*Compounding step finished - sanding marks removed*
Here's a few pictures of the truck after all the compounding is finished. by now it's 7:30pm. I started at 8:00am sharp, this means I have 11.5 hours into the first two steps. The compounding step is very physical. It requires you to be in good physical condition as you're going to be pushing against a polisher for hours plus bracing your entire body during this span of time.





































*Holograms*
While the finish looks good in the pictures - don't kid yourself - the finish is filled with holograms from the FIBERS of the wool cutting pads. The ACA abrasives are sub-micron in size, so the holograms are primarily from the fibers and are shallow meaning they will buff out fast and easy during the next step where I switch over to the 3D ACA 520 Finishing Polish with a foam pad and the FLEX Supa BEAST!


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

Continued...

*Products used for the compounding step*

*3D ACA 510 Premium Rubbing Compound*










FASTEST cutting 3D compound with the costliest powder and formulation


Specifically formulated to cut and level HARD clearcoats fast! 
 Removes sanding marks and other serious paint defects like swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation. 
 Precision engineered (proprietary) Alpha Ceramic Alumina, (ACA) sub-micron abrasive technology. 
 Removes down to P1000 grit sanding marks. 
 Cuts fast and leaves a superior finish compared to all other compounds. 
 Works with any rotary or orbital polisher plus foam or wool pads. 
 Body shop safe - Fresh paint safe - Silicone free! 
 *Does NOT contain OSHA regulated Crystalline Silica! - HUMAN SAFE* 
 Water-based - No harsh solvents or foul odors! 
 Wipes off easy! - Won't clog buffing pads -- Competitive pricing. 
 3D's Green Earth Technology - Biodegradable, Prop 65 and V.O.C. compliant.

*Cuts the hardest clearcoats fast! *

3D ACA 510 Premium Rubbing Compound is specifically formulated to cut hard clearcoats fast. The unique, proprietary ceramic abrasive technology keeps surface temperatures lower than conventional compounds. 3D ACA 510 Premium Rubbing Compound also cuts all other types of paints, coatings, and materials fast.

When it comes to compounds you want a product that cuts fast, cuts cool, is low to no swirl, has zero dusting, long buffing cycle without drying out and most important - _easy wipe-off_. You get all of these features with 3D ACA 510 Premium Rubbing Compound.

3D ACA 510 is the best compound on the market today due to the proprietary abrasive technology created and solely owned and controlled by Tunch Goren, head chemist and owner of 3DProducts.com

This rubbing compound was specifically formulated to quickly cut sanding marks out of hard clearcoats and other hard paints, coatings, and materials. It uses the costliest powder out of all the 3D manufactured powders as well as the best ingredients for the formulation.

In simple words, the term _powder_ means the actual abrasive technology. The term _formulation_ means the total product, this includes the abrasive technology PLUS all the other ingredients that result in the liquid product in the bottle. The liquid portion of the formula include 100% VOC compliant and biodegradable solvents, emulsifiers, wetting agents and other carrying agents, (secret stuff).

*3D's EZ-Switch Backing Plate System*











Proprietary Steel Quick Disconnect makes swapping backing plates fast! 
 Reduces the number of times you have to align pads. 
 Saves and prolongs the velcro backing on pads and backing plates. 
 Quickly swap between compounds, polishes, glazes, and all-in-ones.










*Swap pads fast, prolong pad and backing plate life - less time centering*

The 3D EZ-Switch Backing plate system is the latest innovation in rotary polisher buffing in years if not decades. Over the last decade or so, a lot of people have entered the machine polishing world starting out with orbital polishers. Now there's a huge upswing in interest in the tried-and-true rotary polisher.

The rotary polisher is without a doubt the fastest way to correct severely neglected and damaged paint or remove sanding marks. There are currently more pad types and sizes available than ever before. To make it easier to switch between pads for different products and/or pad sizes, 3D has introduced the EZ-Switch Backing Plate System.

This system includes the proprietary steel quick disconnect and 4 different flexible backing plates. Anyone that's ever used a rotary polisher KNOWS how important it is to correctly center the buffing pad onto the backing plate. The more perfect you center the pad the smoother the buffing experience and also the more uniform the cutting or polishing action at the surface level.

If you only use one backing plate you are forced to swap pads out often. Each time you change pads you must spend time attaching and centering the buffing pad onto the backing plate. Not a huge deal but it does take time. With the EZ-Switch Backing Plate System - you basically center a pad ONCE onto the backing plate and go to work! When it's time to switch to a different pad, you switch to a different backing plate with the correct pad. Once you have your pads aligned to your backing plates - you switch over to cruise-control.

*Increase pad and backing plate life saves you money*
Each time you remove a pad from a backing plate you _s-t-r-e-t-c-h_ the hooks on the backing plate. At some point the hooks become so worn and stretched you lose good pad adhesion. With the EZ-Switch Backing Plate System - because you are not continually removing and switching out pads - the hooks last longer thus your backing plate Velcro lasts longer as does the loop backing material on your pads.


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

Continued....

*Day 2 - Sunday*

*Machine polishing to remove holograms and maximize gloss, shine and clarity*

Started again at 8:00am sharp on Sunday morning. Not a lot of pictures - *we're in full machine mode* today.

If you look carefully - *you can see there is a film of polish on the back fender and actually the entire truck*. I machine polished the entire truck, all the body panels and after I was completely finished with the machine polishing step I then wiped-off the polish. It wiped of easily with zero dusting.










Here's the rear fender after wiping off the film of polish - super clear, incredible depth and gloss. The 520 polish corrects fast and finishes out show car quality. Plus it's super easy to wipe-off.










Here's the front clip after polishing with the 520 and then carefully wiping the polish off.










Products used...

*3D ACA 520 Finishing Polish*











FASTEST fine-cut polish removes holograms, fines swirls and scratches. 
 More correction, more speed and same finish results as 3D AAT 502 Finishing Polish. 
 Precision engineered proprietary *Alpha Ceramic Alumina*, (ACA) abrasive technology. 
 Chemically tuned for both hard and soft paints. 
 Finishes out hologram free with rotary polisher and soft foam finishing pad. 
 Works with both rotary and orbital polishers plus foam, microfiber, or wool pads. 
 Body shop safe - Fresh paint safe - Silicone free! 
 *Does NOT contain OSHA regulated Crystalline Silica! - HUMAN SAFE* 
 Water-based - No harsh solvents or foul odors! 
 Wipes off easy! - Won't clog buffing pads -- Competitive pricing. 
 3D's Green Earth Technology - Biodegradable, Prop 65 and V.O.C. compliant


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

Continued....

*Sunday Afternoon*

*Installing the Ceramic Coating*

Chemically Stripping the Paint

I think I'm the only detailer/writer that describes this step this way? In other words, I describe using a panel wipe as *chemically stripping the paint*. Because, this is in fact what you're doing.

I don't know what other detailers call it besides, *using a panel wipe to prep the paint* - but the fact of the matter is - this step is in fact chemically stripping the paint. It's important to understand this because this is the key product and the key step that in part - determines the final end results.

Why?

Because with this step we are wiping as *SOLVENT* of some sort over the paint to emulsify and dissolve any polishing oils or other foreign substances so we can then wipe them off the paint. The purpose being to create surgically clean surface so that the coating can make a proper bond. And here's the key thing - most solvents are NOT good lubricants. This means if you or the detailer you hired to ceramic coat your car is using a sub-quality panel wipe - they could mar the paint in the process. It can be even worse... for this step, (using a panel wipe to chemically strip the paint), you MUST use clean, uncontaminated microfiber towels and from what I've seen in the industry - most people simply do not have enough quality uncontaminated microfiber towels in their arsenal. Everything that TOUCHES the paint must be clean, soft and uncontaminated or you risk putting swirls and scratches back into the paint.

Like I always say,

_It takes *HOURS* to buff out a car... it takes *SECONDS* to put scratches back into the paint_

*3D Wipe*
I've used a lot of panel wipes in my life. Allow me to re-type that and give it some emphasis...

*I've used a LOT of panel wipes in my life. *

I can document installing my first ceramic coating back to the year 2011 - that's 10 years ago as I type today on November 11th, 2021. Along with all the coatings I've used I've also used just as many _panel wipes_.

In my experience - 3D Wipe is hands-down the nicest panel wipe I've ever used. It's not harsh like some, which makes a panel wipe grabby, Grabby panel wipes lead to marring of the paint. (_marring_ is the kind fluffy word we detailers use for the word _scratching_). 3D Wipe offers good lubrication so you don't mar the paint and it wipes off smoothly, not grabby. It leaves a perfectly clear and clean surface. It also smells nice.

Here's yours truly spraying 3D Wipe onto the hood.










Next I carefully spread the product and then remove both the product and any polishing oil residues. In the near future Yancy and I will make a brand new video on hot to use a panel wipe. It's not complicated BUT you need LOTS of clean, uncontaminated microfiber towels.










*Installing the coating*
For this truck I'm going to use the 3D Ceramic Touch. This is a spray-able version of the 3D Ceramic Coating. I chose this coating because of how easy it is to apply, spread, level and remove. Moving forward, the owner himself can also use it.

*Super Atomizing Spray Head - very important*
One thing I be sure to point out to everyone is the sprayer on 3D Ceramic Touch isn't just any middle-of-the road, generic spray head. It has been PURPOSEFULLY chosen because of how well it ATOMIZES the liquid coating into a super fine mist.

This super _atomizing-action_ makes it easy to spray out a very fine mist of product to a large area. This enables you to coat your vehicle without wasting product. Keep in mind, you only need a thin layer of product and after you spray it over a section of paint you're then going to use a microfiber towel to spread it out. A spray head that "squirted" the product would be very in-efficient and it would also waste a lot of product.

The packaging for this spray-on coating is very well thought out. While the performance of any product is top priority - the delivery of the product is also important.

*In the below picture - I'm giving the squeeze trigger one healthy squeeze - look at how well the nozzle atomizes the liquid!*










*Here's a close-up...*










Using a clean microfiber towel - I gently but thoroughly spread the coating over the surface - about half of the hood. Then I switch to a second towel to level and remove any excess.










*3D Ceramic Touch*


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

Continued...

_*Here's the final results...*_










*Full Custom Build*
There are many custom fabrications behind the build of this truck. For example, originally these hood were made in 2 pieces with a seem running down the middle of the hood. Brad welded this hood up to be a solid, one-piece hood and then meticulously smoothed over the weld to make it perfectly flat.










Originally, the splash apron behind the bumper ended about 8" in - Brad extended it to just behind the ends of the bumpers.










It's small, custom touches like this that aficionados of the 1949 Chevy will see instantly.










*Joe Altman* of ClearShielldProtection.com made these black vinyl insets to place on the face of the wheels to break-up all the shine! They work as envisioned and add the finishing touch to the wheels and of course, properly detailed wheels add the finishing touch to the complete look of the pickup.










Brad sprayed 3 high-build coats of clearcoat over the entire truck. With his confidence in the quality and volume of paint sprayed - I had the confidence to machine dry sand pretty much all of the truck including the rolled steel tops of the truck bed and tailgate.










*The unique 5-window Chevy Truck*
In 1947, just after the end of World War II, Chevrolet introduced their new Advanced Design Trucks with an emphasis on safety. The outer side windows removed the traditional blind spots found in earlier designs not just in Chevrolet trucks, but also problematic for all other brands. The secondary windows give the 1947 to 1954 models a unique appearances and they have a very strong and loyal following among both collectors and customer car builders.










_*This is one clean machine!*_










*Brad also custom built the wood stake bed...*










The tailgate is completely modified and smoother over to maintain the smooth look of the truck.










At the top, rear of the driver's side fender, Brad custom made a threaded, spring-loaded gas filler cap.










All the lower sheetmetal at the bottom of the bed and between the cab and the fender is custom fabricated.










*Here's a few outside shots...*



















*Brad build the frame from scratch. The truck has a great stance and a smooth ride.*


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

Continued...

*Here's what I used to do all the work.*



















*Pictured below...*

3D Alpha Ceramic Abrasives #2500 FLEX SANDING DISCS in 6" and 3"
There's a 3D Interface pad on the 3D Brushless Sander and in front of the sander is a 3" interface pad.
FLEX corded PE14 in the back with the 3D EZ-Switch Quick Disconnect and Backing Plate System.
Just behind the corded FLEX PE14 is a cordless PE14










*Pictured below...*

3D ACA 510 Premium Rubbing Compound and 3D ACA 520 Finishing Polish
Behind the compound and polish is the *FLEX Supa BEAST* - the actual part number is FLEX XCE 10-8 125 - Please learn to call it by it's nickname - referring to it via the part number is silly.
Out in front is some 3M painter's tape. 3D actually has their own tape line but I didn't have any with me and it was VERY important to protect the chrome and stainless steel trim. 
In front of the compound and polish are a steel pad cleaning spur for cleaning wool pads (very important), and nylon brush for cleaning foam pads.
To the far right is the now discontinued Griot's 3" Mini Polisher that I LOVE for a 3" mini sander - 5mm orbit stroke - perfect for show car sanding.










*Pictured below...*

3D Ceramic Touch spray-on coating. Many products that claim to be ceramic are not. This is the real deal. Made in America, formula by Tunch Goren.










*Pictured below...*

This is the FLEX battery charger for the FLEX cordless tool. FLEX has the best cordless tool technology on the market. All FLEX cordless tools have microchips in them as to the batteries and the charger. This way they can all "talk" to one another. I'll have more to share about FLEX battery technology in the future - suffice to say, before you purchase a cordless polisher - the key element that drives the performance of the tool is the battery technology.

3D Metal Polish - Brad tested this out on the wheels. Me? I was a tick busy with the paint. 










*3D Final Touch*
I left Brad a bottle of 3D Final Touch for a product to remove light dust, fingerprints and smudges. As far as the spray detailer category goes I'll put this up against any other brand in this category.










*3D Bead-it-Up*
This is a ceramic coating booster or maintenance spray. It works great and in my opinion and experience, better than competing products in this category. Plus - it leaves a very slippery finish. I left a bottle of this with Brad also to maintain the 3D Ceramic Touch.










*The sun is setting on this Sunday night. All the work is over and it's time to chill out...*










*Parting shots...*



















Thanks for looking. Comments, questions and feedback always appreciated and encouraged.


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## MAUI (Feb 1, 2008)

Awesome job, Mike. Why did you choose to dry sand rather than wet sand?


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## Mike Phillips (Jan 26, 2007)

MAUI said:


> Awesome job, Mike. Why did you choose to dry sand rather than wet sand?


Great question - thank you for asking.

First - Now that I work for 3D it's only natural to showcase 3D products. 3D has a very well though-out dry sanding "system". The secret is in not only the sanding discs but the INTERFACE pad. The micro-hooks are key to leveling the high points while leaving the most paint on the car.

Second - I find dry sanding faster, easier and cleaner. The downside is we should all wear some type of breathing protection.

Third - Most other brands in the detailing world don't have a dry sanding "system". Couple the 3D Dry Sanding System with their compounds and polishes and you have a sure fire winner.


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