# Attempted to correct my roof



## Ashley6 (Oct 7, 2012)

Started at 10am yesterday ready to attack my M4's carbon roof, I haven't really done anything like this before, to try and get a full correction, but I have watched an absolute ton of videos on youtube so was pretty confident that I would not destroy anything or cause any damage.

However I think I need some advice on my technique and a couple of questions I don't know (or at least cannot remember!) which i'd like to ask.

I have had the car a year but haven't really had the time to try and sort the paintwork out, this weekend is my first effort.

I started with AutoBrite Magifoam, sprayed on, dwelled, washed off, I then used AF Obliterate tar remover on the arches and side skirts, rinsed and then shampoo'd with the 2 bucket method.

After this I used angelwax clay with dodo juice born slippy and clayed the whole car. I knew I wouldn't have enough time to do the whole car so applied SRP to all panels minus the roof. I then wiped the roof down with panel wipe on a microfibre cloth.

Firstly this is how my roof started after panel wipe, which I think is pretty bad;

P1010213 by Ashley James, on Flickr

P1010217 by Ashley James, on Flickr

P1010214 by Ashley James, on Flickr

These are my pads;

s-l500 by Ashley James, on Flickr

I started with a medium cut pad (orange) on my das-6 DA polisher with Meguiars Ultimate compound and split the roof into 4 quarters.

I started with priming the pad (placed some polish on the pad and used my hand to rub it in) then put 4 pee size beads across the pad. I 'patted' it across my area, switched the DA to speed 1 and spread the polish out. I then upped the speed to 6 and completed 3 cross hatched passes, buffed and repeated once more on each area (2 sets of 3 passses?). Everynow and then I gave it a quick spritz with some clay lube to stop the polish drying out. I easily spent 2 hours doing this, one quarter section at a time.

Unfortunately I couldn't bring myself to take photos of the after in the sun, they were not great, maybe a 50% correction at best. Light swirling was still there as were other small scrathes (to be fair I could feel these with my nails so they were always there to stay).

I thought a medium cut pad and ultimate compound would have been quite a good match for these swirls and marks, but 2 hours for a 50% correction doesn't seem quite right?

So my questions are;

Is a medium cut pad and ultimate compound strong enough to remove these types of swirls or should I have stepped it up to the heavy cut, yellow pad, or tried a different polish?

How long 'should' (I know everyone will differ a little) it take to correct 1 panel using my set up? Was 2 hours too long and I could have got better results with better technique?

Was my prewash technique ok or would you have completed any other steps to prepare it for polish?

I know its quite hard from that but I really feel like I am not doing something right but can't quite work out what, unfortunately after 2 spending 2 hours and getting minimal results I was a bit defeated and decided to chuck a quick glaze on it with a layer of wax and pack up for the day!

The only plus side, it does look quite nice out of direct sunlight :lol::lol: SRP did its job well. I also picked up some AG Polar Seal from Halfords and gave it a quick once over for some protection (I rarely drive it during the week)

P1010246 by Ashley James, on Flickr

P1010268 by Ashley James, on Flickr

2 by Ashley James, on Flickr

3 by Ashley James, on Flickr

5 by Ashley James, on Flickr


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## minotaur uk (Dec 13, 2018)

meguiars ultimate compound is actually quite aggressive (roughly 8/10 cut) so maybe a step up in heavier cut pad would work. I've not polished carbon roofs before so not sure how hard it is to polish. 

You could also try a heavier cut polish but as i don't know the laquer thickness on a carbon roof its difficult to recommned with certainty.


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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Can’t help with the polishing question, but looks a cracking motor and loving the colour :thumb:


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## big dave 666 (Aug 2, 2014)

The fact you have a 50% correction rate must mean you're doing something right.
So... You either need to to more passes and sets or go up one on the aggressiveness. 
I'd also split the roof into six smaller parts maybe, not four.


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## minotaur uk (Dec 13, 2018)

Andyblue said:


> Can't help with the polishing question, but looks a cracking motor and loving the colour :thumb:


...I also meant to add that the motor is stunning and love the carbon roof and colour combo!


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## Ashley6 (Oct 7, 2012)

Thanks guys, I do love her, she gets a lot of love when out and about!

Currently running stage 1 on just over 500bhp :devil:



big dave 666 said:


> The fact you have a 50% correction rate must mean you're doing something right.
> So... You either need to to more passes and sets or go up one on the aggressiveness.
> I'd also split the roof into six smaller parts maybe, not four.


Thanks,

Do you think the 2 hours i spent was about right for a roof or am i moving too slow?

A couple more pics!

P1010287 by Ashley James, on Flickr

P1010248 by Ashley James, on Flickr


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## AudiPhil (Aug 11, 2018)

Stunning Beemer!


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## Soul boy 68 (Sep 8, 2013)

Lovely work fella, may I ask, is that the spoiler for GTS?


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## Ashley6 (Oct 7, 2012)

Thanks

It is the m performance spoiler, same range as the diffuser, side skirts and splitter 

There's not anyone in Kent that wants to come and give me a hand is there? lol


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## minotaur uk (Dec 13, 2018)

Ashley6 said:


> Thanks
> 
> It is the m performance spoiler, same range as the diffuser, side skirts and splitter
> 
> There's not anyone in Kent that wants to come and give me a hand is there? lol


I'll help if you fancy a drive up to Yorkshire


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## BennyS3 (Dec 28, 2016)

Firstly stunning motor mate i LOVE that color!!

Secondly regarding polishing...as stated if have slight correction then you are doing something right but as said previously step up the pad to white and the cutting polish. This may leave some slight hazing but can always rectify this with a less aggressive polish and pad combo. Also it could be a factor if the polish is producing dust,that could be slightly scratching the surface you've just gone over. In this matter I usually blow away any dust residue then wipe away (but this is only doing a multi stage job).

On a personal note tho,i didnt think much of the hex-logic pads when i first started out out machine polishing,so maybe look at other brands like rupes or lake country. 

Hope this helps mate


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## Stoner (Jun 25, 2010)

Your hard work has paid off. Great looking car, especially in that colour!


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## Ashley6 (Oct 7, 2012)

Thanks for all the love! 

North Yorkshire is abit far but thanks for the offer lol



BennyS3 said:


> Firstly stunning motor mate i LOVE that color!!
> 
> Secondly regarding polishing...as stated if have slight correction then you are doing something right but as said previously step up the pad to white and the cutting polish. This may leave some slight hazing but can always rectify this with a less aggressive polish and pad combo. Also it could be a factor if the polish is producing dust,that could be slightly scratching the surface you've just gone over. In this matter I usually blow away any dust residue then wipe away (but this is only doing a multi stage job).
> 
> ...


Thanks, yeah it does, I tried Chem Guys V34 but my god, the dust was unreal!

I'm considering getting a microfibre pad, would this be a bit overkill? Really the roof needs wet sanding to remove everything but I'm not taking for sand paper to a carbon roof lol


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Ashley6 said:


> Do you think the 2 hours i spent was about right for a roof or am i moving too slow?


You definitely could dial in your product combo and technique to help speed up your correction... That said, not rushing the work is a good thing, as your results will pay off.

Meg's UC is a non-diminishing compound, so the KBM method you seem to be using is definitely the way to go... I don't know how much product you are using to prime the pad, but for heavy correction like this especially, it should be a pretty generous spiral on the face of the pad (It should be consistently coated, with no patchy spots.). Here's an article on the subject just in case you'd like to double-check your basic KBM technique is on-point: https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=3850157&postcount=4.

Since UC is non-diminishing, there is no harm in going to as aggressive of a pad as you own for the initial cut; you can always stop whenever you start seeing the results you want. In fact, microfiber or short wool wouldn't be a bad idea if you want to invest in some new pads.

Also, high speed isn't necessarily going to equal faster correction, as it dries out the polish quicker, and can sometimes even cause it to hydroplane rather than bite into the surface... This may sound weird, but try backing down to speed 4-5. You may actually end up correcting the defects faster this way.

Next up, use straight water rather than clay lube, and just give it a light mist at the start of the correction cycle, and periodically as you work. Water-spritzing works as a 'nitrous boost' for Meg's non-diminishing products... It thins out the lubricant so that the abrasives can work more directly, without being hydraulically buffered so much, and also helps to control swarf loading which can again start to limit your correction efficiency. Not too much, mind; just a light spritz...

Also, as recommended above, try working a smaller section at a time. 18X18 inches, perhaps. Concentrate your efforts a bit more, and though you will end up doing more individual sections this way, on a whole you'll end up achieving a higher percentage of correction for the time you spend.

If this still isn't enough, try graduating to a more professional-grade compound like M101 or M110. Same technique, but you'll achieve more in a shorter time than going after the defects with a milder, OTC product like Ultimate Compound.

Hope this helps...

- Steampunk


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## Ashley6 (Oct 7, 2012)

That is excellent, thanks!

I didn't use much product to prime the pad, a few small dots, so I'll redo this as suggested.

I have a small selection of pads, I have 5 pads all with different cuts, so expanding is definitely on my list, I'll check out the difference between wool and mocrofibre for sure, I watched an Ammo NYC video and he had some good results. I think more cut is definitely required.

I'll probably order some tonight once I am home and can research more effectively (currently using a temp iPhone 5c with a smashed screen for internet!)

If using microfibre and heavy cut, would you then step down to a medium cut combo and then light/polish or can you jump straight to the light cut/polish stage and that will be enough to remove any hazing?

I.e megs ultimate compound/microfibre pad > Chem guys v36/orange cut foam pad > megs ultimate polish/finishing pad > protection stage

Or

Megs ultimate compound/mocrofibre pad > megs ultimate polish/finishing pad > protection stage

Are there any paint correction courses available? I have had a look and most are a full detailing course, I can do the detailing though so I don't need a large portion of the courses offered. Unfortunately KDS is out of my price range!

Sorry for any typos or mistakes, the iPhone 5c is awful to use!! #longliveandroid


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Ashley6 said:


> I have a small selection of pads, I have 5 pads all with different cuts, so expanding is definitely on my list, I'll check out the difference between wool and mocrofibre for sure, I watched an Ammo NYC video and he had some good results. I think more cut is definitely required.
> 
> If using microfibre and heavy cut, would you then step down to a medium cut combo and then light/polish or can you jump straight to the light cut/polish stage and that will be enough to remove any hazing?
> 
> ...


Regarding MF vs. Wool, there are a few differences. Firstly, knitted 100% short wool is rarer than MF, these days (Especially since CarPro discontinued their wonderful Cool Wool pads.  ). However, it has a bit more cut (The most of any pad type), runs cooler in high speed operation, and typically demands less product to prime. Long wool pads are a different story... MF on the other hand, can finish better if you are mindful of technique.

The finish quality you get after microfiber is mostly about cleaning technique... You'll get the least marring if you can blow the pads out with compressed air. Otherwise, you will have more and more marring gradually building up on you. You can use a brush, and it's better than nothing, but this isn't _quite_ as effective. Coarse wool has a little more marring in the first place, but is easier to keep clean with a brush if you do not have access to an air compressor (Even a cheap, little hot-dog or pancake one will do.).

If you want cutting power closer to microfiber (Very nearly), with even better finishing quality, and the ability to be maintained and cleaned on the fly with a towel, just as any other foam pad, I would look into something like the CarPro Flash or Scholl Concepts White Spider Sandwich pads. Thin microfiber cutting pads offer more leveling power, but these days their outright cutting power isn't always so notable compared with the best foam cutting pads. The margin between the best foam and MF cutting pads is a narrow one, though with a slight nod still to MF. For your application, though, I wouldn't sweat the narrow margin. Go with whatever you can keep clean, easier.

In any case, if your compound is well paired with the pad and the paint at hand, you should be able to finish out with a light haze that a secondary finishing step will easily handle. There aren't a lot of times anymore, with current pad and polish tech, that you need to 3-step with a DA.

As for courses, I cannot help you as I'm not in the UK, but I would start a separate thread... However, you can teach yourself, and there are lots of great articles and YouTube videos that can help you.

Yeah, switching platforms is hard... :lol: There are pros and cons to both, but a 5 is far from convenient as a browsing device.

Hope this helps.

- Steampunk


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## Ashley6 (Oct 7, 2012)

Steampunk said:


> Regarding MF vs. Wool, there are a few differences. Firstly, knitted 100% short wool is rarer than MF, these days (Especially since CarPro discontinued their wonderful Cool Wool pads.  ). However, it has a bit more cut (The most of any pad type), runs cooler in high speed operation, and typically demands less product to prime. Long wool pads are a different story... MF on the other hand, can finish better if you are mindful of technique.
> 
> The finish quality you get after microfiber is mostly about cleaning technique... You'll get the least marring if you can blow the pads out with compressed air. Otherwise, you will have more and more marring gradually building up on you. You can use a brush, and it's better than nothing, but this isn't _quite_ as effective. Coarse wool has a little more marring in the first place, but is easier to keep clean with a brush if you do not have access to an air compressor (Even a cheap, little hot-dog or pancake one will do.).
> 
> ...


Wonderful advice.

Move to the UK and teach us!

I'm going to go for the spider pads after your advice, I don't have any compressed air and don't really want to buy a compressor just to blow pads out so they seem the ideal choice.

I'm going to give it ago with the UC and if that doesn't do anything I might try and get the Koch 8.02 as that seems to have very good reviews. The Chem Guys V series are likely to be binned as I can't cope with that amount of dust.

Cheers for the advice, i'll post up once I have some results!


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## Steampunk (Aug 11, 2011)

Ashley6 said:


> Wonderful advice.
> 
> Move to the UK and teach us!
> 
> ...


Happy to help.

Good choice on the spider pads... They're very durable, and will last you a good long time. :thumb:

If you aren't seeing the results, but want to stick with the same technique as UC, try M101 with the spiders... You can always stop any time you see the correction you want, but it has almost 3X the cut. On a White Spider, UC should be able to remove P3000 wetsanding scratches. Something like S3+ XXL (Which H8.02 is supposed to be similar to in cut; maybe a bit less according to some.) will tackle P2000 no problem on these pads; maybe P1500 if it's shallow, and you've got a powerful machine behind it that can take some pressure. M101 can erase P1500 like it's a walk in the park, even on an entry-level DA. It's an animal.

We'll all enjoy seeing your results. :buffer:

- Steampunk


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## Starbuck88 (Nov 12, 2013)

you're getting great advice in this thread so all I can add is....

Jesus H Christ that is one gorgeous car.


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## Cookies (Dec 10, 2008)

Ooooh that's one gorgeous car. 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## Ashley6 (Oct 7, 2012)

You guys are so nice! 

I agree, advice has been spot on, re-wiring the garage today so I can sort the floor and then i'll have somewhere to put this polishing into practice without worrying about the dreaded rain and dust! :argie: :argie: :argie:


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## virdi (Mar 11, 2019)

WOW!! That looks fab!!

I never knew if Carbon can be polished??


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