# Gyeon Wet Coat - Why are you applying it wrong?



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

Hey Everyone!

It seems that Every Saturday I come up with a new idea to test and then subsequently, video to make. Today's video is a look back at Gyeon Wet Coat, and testing various application methods. Apparently my last video with this product comparing it to Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax sparked quite a debate, as the video is linked to multiple forums and has nearly 5000 views. The main points brought up reference to the "miss-use" of the product as I didn't follow the label. They state that wetcoat needs to be used only in a spray on rinse off manner, and only with a pressure washer, as pressure washers have magic properties that energies ceramic particles.

I made that last part up, but the gist of it is that Not following the label will produce _worse_ results. I personally disagree in this instance, and find a pure spray on, rinse off product to be wasteful and potentially harder to get consistent coverage without using a lot of product. Yes it's easier, but we don't do this stuff because we're lazy, we do this because we love doing it which you could argue is the opposite of lazy.

In the video, we're apply wet coat 3 different ways.

Dry panel - spread and buffed off.
Wet panel - spread and buffed dry.
Wet Panel - Sprayed and pressure washed.

The paint was washed, decontaminated (liquids only, no physical clay) and wiped down with panel wipe. Now, I don't feel products like these need a fully prepped surface, simply because of their nature. But, in the interest of science (and not giving an internet commentator a roof top to shout from) I degreased them just to be safe.

The results? Watch the video below! Bonus at the end is some slow mo beading of the dry applied section, and I even went through the hassle of grabbing some royalty free music to make it a bit more pleasant. Hopefully in the next few videos I'll be able to get a slightly better flow and form to my clips and editing. Lately I'm rushing to just get the footage captured and processes completed properly, that I'm not styling or sprucing it up. Anyway, here's the video, enjoy!


----------



## grunty-motor (Aug 11, 2016)

Nice video and pretty clear. You should do a follow up to see how they last compared to each other.


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

grunty-motor said:


> Nice video and pretty clear. You should do a follow up to see how they last compared to each other.


I think the lack of application consistency should be enough to let people know that the dry would last longest.

I also gave wet coat back to my father in law.


----------



## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

Good video as per usual!

To me it raises a good question of what you use WetCoat for - I personally approach these products in a way that means I can blow dry the car and therefore minimise the contact on the paint. However, if you were going to towel dry anyway then it looks like the 2nd option you tested is an absolute winner.

I enjoy the editing myself, but it's time consuming that's for sure. I find a time saving activity is adding the voice over during the editing - makes the videoing easier but the editing marginally longer.


----------



## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Good video. I do not rate this category of products and have posted a lot about the small margins for error and general film they leave behind over time, especially when reapplied. Your video also illustrates that the application method does not allow thorough LSP coverage, meaning some areas will be less protected, something that would bug me personally. 

Fundamentally, regardless of how they are used, they're also unable to compete in longevity or performance with traditional spray on wipe off products. They aren't time saving as you still have to dry the car.

I don't get why they're used, makes no sense to me anyway. 

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


----------



## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

I've applied wet coat (as per instructions) to three cars and on each I have had spotty residue on windows that has only presented itself when polishing the glass, and it was difficult to remove. For this reason I would steer clear.
In this video, applying dry looks like it would be the safest application but how long it will last I don't know. What I do know is that if you are going to the trouble to apply it that way, there are entry level ceramic products that are as easy to apply that will get you approaching a year of decent protection.


----------



## SuperchargedLlama (Apr 25, 2008)

atbalfour said:


> I don't get why they're used, makes no sense to me anyway.
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


For me I see them as a way that I can get a contactless dry on a car with no other LSP.


----------



## macca666 (Mar 30, 2010)

atbalfour said:


> I don't get why they're used, makes no sense to me anyway.
> 
> Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


I use them regularly during the winter. Not watched the video yet will do it later but I use a similar product applied by foam lance. I get even coverage and if I use an open hose its virtually dry so quick wipe over with a drying towel and its done.

Its much quicker and easier for me than a spray on wipe off wax and I get 3 month easily on top of my wax so its easy to reapply every second or third wash :thumb:

I think the same as you with the spray on wipe off waxes but it would be a boring world if we all thought the same :lol:


----------



## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

I do like wetcoat but I have a problem on the ST that the Glass is Hazy, you wipe it and after a couple of mins the haze returns, have polished one window and it will come off (big spoiler on the boot means I will have to do upper portion of window by hand), cant say its wetcoat but that or Bathe+ used via foam lance were possibly the last two used after washes.

I have tried out wetcoat in a similar manner, mostly after rinsing the car I would go round and get most of the water off with a single MF then use that wet cloth to spray wetcoat onto, apply to a panel and buff off, gave good beading and meant I could avoid the glass which has H2Go on anyway.

Yesturday, took opportunity to wash car, warm day but sun was hidden (black car and no shade to put it in), The Sun came out during the wash meaning as soon as rinsed off needed to be getting it dry. So sunny weather and Wetcoat is no no for its official application method.

Had a spare bottle, so diluted it down 1 part Wetcoat to 2 parts water. Sprayed the front wing as was in the sun so would allow me to inspect, wiped with one MF and buffed with another. This left some haze that didn't buff that easily. So tried damp cloth to apply and second dry one to buff, this worked fine, no haze, could have used it neat but when I do that its usually not sunny and the applying mf is wet not damp. Not sure on beading yet as weather looks good for a good few days. Will have to try diluting it down some more in the future.


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

atbalfour said:


> Good video. I do not rate this category of products and have posted a lot about the small margins for error and general film they leave behind over time, especially when reapplied. Your video also illustrates that the application method does not allow thorough LSP coverage, meaning some areas will be less protected, something that would bug me personally.
> 
> Fundamentally, regardless of how they are used, they're also unable to compete in longevity or performance with traditional spray on wipe off products. They aren't time saving as you still have to dry the car.
> 
> ...


I think a lot of people forget that the wet application products are meant for maintenance/boosting of ceramic coatings. They can be used as stand alone, but as a topper these make much more sense. Now, a ceramic spray topper could potentially be better (the megs HCW is fairly durable) for that duty, but most of the time you need to dry them, and if you're going "off label" to use a dry product wet, you could potentially get an uneven coat.

I fully expect this to work better over a base coating, and think if you apply a dry base layer and then do wet applications it would apply better and more consistently.


----------



## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

Great video. If you’re going to be using as a standalone, then a dry application makes sense. However, for all the people that get streaks, the middle way is the best way to use these, especially if using to boost an existing base product. The couple of sprays on the panel can be easily and evenly spread around and you can either go straight to drying or you can use an open hose to sheet dry or blast it again to see the effects. Either way, you won’t get streaking as you have physically moved the product around and in doing so, removed that issue and it is still quick, if you’re going straight to drying.

I haven’t tried these things with Wetcoat, but I did try them with Dry and Shine which is very similar in its concept. I also did a half and half on my car with dry applied Dry and Shine vs Hydrophobic Sealant Wax. In this test, D&S wasn’t as nice to use as HSW but the results were very similar and both had the same water behaviour and similar apparent longevity.


----------



## grunty-motor (Aug 11, 2016)

Sheep said:


> I think a lot of people forget that the wet application products are meant for maintenance/boosting of ceramic coatings. They can be used as stand alone, but as a topper these make much more sense. Now, a ceramic spray topper could potentially be better (the megs HCW is fairly durable) for that duty, but most of the time you need to dry them, and if you're going "off label" to use a dry product wet, you could potentially get an uneven coat.
> 
> I fully expect this to work better over a base coating, and think if you apply a dry base layer and then do wet applications it would apply better and more consistently.


That is not my experience. I have found they leave a residue over time and I dont use them any more on top of my ceramics (CSL / Syncro). I will admit to only applying wet, and and also suffering the issue with overspray on the window.

The only thing i would say to any of my friends is to try them as a toe-dip into the ceramics mine field. IF you like the initial effect of Wetcoat for example, then you will love a intermediate/full coating system.

Your results on the bare paint do look good though. But, as a topper, no-one goes to your level of preparation.


----------



## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

I don't get why so many are troubled with issues yet continue to use them (conventionally, or otherwise).

Not having a go at the test as there needs to be more awareness around these nonsense products. I couldn't think of anything worse to put over a ceramic coating. You're stuck with whatever finish it leaves, no option to polish without taking the ceramic off with it. For what benefit? Mediocre beading for 3 weeks?

Touchless protection is a great theory but in practice they categorically compromise the finish more than the contact will.

If your glass is streaking / hazing your paint is too, you just can't see it as clearly 

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

grunty-motor said:


> That is not my experience. I have found they leave a residue over time and I dont use them any more on top of my ceramics (CSL / Syncro). I will admit to only applying wet, and and also suffering the issue with overspray on the window.
> 
> The only thing i would say to any of my friends is to try them as a toe-dip into the ceramics mine field. IF you like the initial effect of Wetcoat for example, then you will love a intermediate/full coating system.
> 
> Your results on the bare paint do look good though. But, as a topper, no-one goes to your level of preparation.


I agree that the spray on rinse off method has the greatest chance of not only residue being left behind, but a severe lack of control as to where the product goes and how much of it. It's no mystery that these are concentrated, but if you apply them to a wet panel, and then distribute them evenly and thinly, it will work, and there won't be any residue left over. As for glass, it will cause some grease in the sense that your wipers will haze as it wipes, but if you buff over it when it's applied it won't leave permanent marks. It's not any different than other spray waxes in that regard (used wet).



atbalfour said:


> I don't get why so many are troubled with issues yet continue to use them (conventionally, or otherwise).
> 
> Not having a go at the test as there needs to be more awareness around these nonsense products. I couldn't think of anything worse to put over a ceramic coating. You're stuck with whatever finish it leaves, no option to polish without taking the ceramic off with it. For what benefit? Mediocre beading for 3 weeks?
> 
> ...


I haven't seen any hazy issues with wet application that is spread and dried or rinsed. Straight spray and rinse does, but again, it's also wasteful and inconsistent. I didn't have any issues with the appears on the second that were applied dry or wet + spread.


----------



## grunty-motor (Aug 11, 2016)

Sheep said:


> I agree that the spray on rinse off method has the greatest chance of not only residue being left behind, but a severe lack of control as to where the product goes and how much of it. It's no mystery that these are concentrated, but if you apply them to a wet panel, and then distribute them evenly and thinly, it will work, and there won't be any residue left over. As for glass, it will cause some grease in the sense that your wipers will haze as it wipes, but if you buff over it when it's applied it won't leave permanent marks. It's not any different than other spray waxes in that regard (used wet).


Totally agree - i just threw the stuff on and PW it off a bit like the instructions say. For 95% of people, they will be very happy with the spray on/off methods. Its only us peeps that look to continually improve...


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

grunty-motor said:


> Totally agree - i just threw the stuff on and PW it off a bit like the instructions say. For 95% of people, they will be very happy with the spray on/off methods. Its only us peeps that look to continually improve...


Yeah. That's why I was curious about the meguiars one, they seemed to figure out that spreading in a base layer was better for consistency and performance.


----------



## muzzer (Feb 13, 2011)

For a car, i wouldn't use this sort of coating, not that there is anything wrong with the product as such but for me, half the fun is applying something to the car and seeing the end result after all your hard work.

However, i mentioned this in another thread on here, for our caravan this sort of thing is an absolute godsend. Imagine trying to wash something 7 ft tall, best part of 7 ft wide and almost 24ft long by hand. It's not too difficult to wash it but imagine trying to wax or ceramic coat that???

Erm....no, so something like this is ideal and of course being white, it wont show up any issues so much.
These products do have their place but not for a car imho


----------



## Yellow Dave (Apr 5, 2011)

People seem to forget they were designed for maintenance. When you still have protection present but water behaviour is dropping off. Like all those that preach at you about open hose rinsing off to dry, doesn’t work unless you have the water behaviour still working OK. 

The film/ streaking/ spotting is generally down to user error. I had it happen a couple of times with different products. Either over applied, not fully rinsed, left too long had something to do with it. 

They serve a function and work well for that function. But their are some that use or claim they can do a lot more. 

I’ve tried the dry application with carpro hydr02 lite side by side with carpro reload. Durability was good as was water behaviour. Gloss looked like nothing was applied.


----------



## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Yellow Dave said:


> The film/ streaking/ spotting is generally down to user error. I had it happen a couple of times with different products. Either over applied, not fully rinsed, left too long had something to do with it.


I would disagree with this. It's not difficult to apply a product and rinse off thoroughly. I think where the problem comes is when you leave the product without towel drying it. I think no matter how well you rinse it, there is always a bit of product suspended in the water beads which deposit on the car. Why this is apparent on glass and not on paint I can't explain, but it's a thing. I wouldn't have it anywhere near my car now; I know how hard it is to shift it.


----------



## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

Yellow Dave said:


> People seem to forget they were designed for maintenance. When you still have protection present but water behaviour is dropping off. Like all those that preach at you about open hose rinsing off to dry, doesn't work unless you have the water behaviour still working OK.
> 
> The film/ streaking/ spotting is generally down to user error. I had it happen a couple of times with different products. Either over applied, not fully rinsed, left too long had something to do with it.
> 
> ...


The fact these are suggested for maintenance of coatings is probably the most baffling use of them. I appreciate I'm starting to sound like a broken record but they completely fail at that purpose - product is dispersed even less evenly on a hydrophobic surface (on side panels the product/ beaded water rolls down causing long streaks that people term as 'user error' -- this is not user error...).

Secondly, if a coating is reasonably fresh but no longer hydrophobic it's almost certainly clogged, for those that have any clue about detailing, toppers will not only make the contamination on the surface more difficult to remove, but no product performs on top of a weak/failing/clogged base product.

Thirdly, when the spray and rinse product inevitably leaves streaking you've no option to use a polish to remove it without taking the coating off with it.



GeeWhizRS said:


> I would disagree with this. It's not difficult to apply a product and rinse off thoroughly. I think where the problem comes is when you leave the product without towel drying it. I think no matter how well you rinse it, there is always a bit of product suspended in the water beads which deposit on the car.


Couldn't agree more.



GeeWhizRS said:


> Why this is apparent on glass and not on paint I can't explain, but it's a thing. I wouldn't have it anywhere near my car now; I know how hard it is to shift it.


Same principle as above applies... glass is naturally hydrophobic and nearly always angled, meaning that when you spray product onto it regardless of whether it's been protected previously, any beaded water on the surface will carry the suspended product downwards in concentrated balls (beads) causing streaking. The fact you can see through glass and it is so reflective only make it that much more noticeable.


----------



## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

The spotty deposits I've experience on the glass are not visible normally. When you come to apply a product to your glass and break out the polish is when I noticed it. It's almost gummy in nature. IPA will shift it but it doesn't freely wipe off, it takes some rubbing.


----------



## RattyMcClelland (Mar 26, 2012)

Depends a few factors.
For me these products are a godsend. I have 3 vehicles myself, one daily van, one kei car and one 90s coupe all sit on my drive and all get dirty just sitting there.
I tend to wash all 3 at the same time and as often as I can but it's time consuming doing all 3 and the van gets very dirty.
All 3 are ceramic coated in Gtechniq CSL/Exo (will be moving to TAC systems soon as not hugely impressed with the CSL combo.)
The Gtechniq easy coat is lovely to apply wet and dry off. Not tried gyeon wet coat but tempted to try the tac systems spray on version.
The Gtechniq easy coat has to be applied wet through a pipe and works very very well. Flows into all the nooks and crannies as it flows and no spotting.
Don't even need to dry it if i cant be bothered however I do just blast it with a metro vac sidekick.


----------



## Coops (Apr 26, 2008)

^^ the spotting is what drove me to move away from Gyeon WetCoat. That was a couple of years ago to be fair.

I have no such spots when using GTechniq Easy Coat.


----------



## Brian1612 (Apr 5, 2015)

Been using these type of products for years, wet coat being one of them. I know people struggle to accept it but any issues are 99% down to individual user error in my opinion.

I've yet to come across 'spots' as people call them from any spray & rinse product. The performance from such simple & quick products is unbelievable in my opinion & for the winter months they are an absolute god send. It's almost impossible for me to dry the car when it's so cold & even on a well protected car the conditions/darkness means drying is a real chore. At least these allow me to top up protection on any base layer with imo an equally as hydrophobic topper without having to dry the car to do so. A real staple in my detailing arsenal.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk


----------



## Coatings (Feb 10, 2020)

Funny i’m from the US and when I played the video was surprised to not hear an accent, British or otherwise.

Funny but got me thinking when I read a post in my head everyone sounds like 007 the Sean Connery version (yes I know he’s Irish). 

People from all over the world here so i guess i shouldn’t be surprised.

Great video, appreciate this type of content. For me if using the dry way their alot of better products if applying this way.

For me i like the ease of use but only on wheels. Get decent beading and keeps wheel clean and easy to re apply.

Rotate from Supersport to spray coating once a month.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GeeWhizRS (Nov 1, 2019)

Coatings said:


> Funny i'm from the US and when I played the video was surprised to not hear an accent, British or otherwise.


He's from Canada 



Coatings said:


> Funny but got me thinking when I read a post in my head everyone sounds like 007 the Sean Connery version (yes I know he's Irish).


Every Scot on the forum now hates you. 😂


----------



## Sheep (Mar 20, 2009)

Coatings said:


> Funny i'm from the US and when I played the video was surprised to not hear an accent, British or otherwise.
> 
> Funny but got me thinking when I read a post in my head everyone sounds like 007 the Sean Connery version (yes I know he's Irish).
> 
> ...


I mean, it WAS a colony not that long ago.


----------

