# Gyeon can coat question



## yulser (May 22, 2008)

Hi, 

Anyone used Gyeon can coat ? I'm sue there must be a few. 

Durability aside is there any improvement on hydrophobic , gloss and self cleaning ability over the wet coat .

My car paint is swirl free and normally has a decent coat of wax CG Pete53 or similar. Not brave enough to apply a full ceramic coating outdoors as I don't have a garage or ability to work indoors.

Been using wet coat after the odd wash to extend wax life and increase hydrophobic effect. 

cheers


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## uberbmw (Jan 31, 2006)

John has done a Gyeon review here might help you out, I'm waiting to try out Wetcoat on my beater


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

cheers , Yeah I seen this earlier but no mention on whether it's worth while using this either instead of or before wet coat


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## Fairtony (Mar 12, 2018)

I was very interested in can coat aswell. but I get the impression you really wanna treat it like any other coating. ie extended curing time, need to be left indoors for a while afterwards.

you may be best sticking with wet coat, cos youll get months of protection, and it really does have similar gloss and self cleaning ability. and youll not get maring resistantance without going for one of the more traditional coatings, with a bit of thickness to them.

wet coat and can coat are really only atoms thick on your paintwork.


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## cleslie (Feb 19, 2006)

I have Can Coat on my daily driver and would say it has the slight edge in water behaviour over Wet Coat. I've found that in the 2 months it's been on the car stays a little cleaner plus the longevity is in another league. I maintain it with Cure and Wet Coat. I applied Cure after the first month and Wet Coat after the second and will continue like this. The water behaviour never ceases to amaze me each time I wash the car!
Can Coat is very easy to apply and they recommend not getting it wet for 12 hours if memory serves. 
This may be handy:


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## Blueberry (Aug 10, 2007)

I’ve used Can Coat quite a lot and much prefer to use this rather than Wet Coat. Gives a much better finish and performs better than Wet Coat. 2 coats, an hour apart, and it will last for nearly a year. You could use Wet Coat Maybe once a month or every couple of months but I prefer to use Cure as a drying aid, diluted 1:1, and that keeps it topped up and performing.


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

Thank you for the feed back ,

TBH I'd love to try can coat as I am trully amazed at what wet coat does but I have no garage facilities and thsi is my only concern.

Has anyone applied this outdoors and left for 12 hours without issue ? Obviously I'd check the weather forecast to ensure it's not going to rain. 

I'm just concerned about general fall out and dust resting on the coating while it cures.

thanks again to everyone who has replied - very helpful feedback :thumb:


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## cleslie (Feb 19, 2006)

yulser said:


> Thank you for the feed back ,
> 
> TBH I'd love to try can coat as I am trully amazed at what wet coat does but I have no garage facilities and thsi is my only concern.
> 
> ...


Mine was all done in the driveway - that's why I went with Can Coat over a full on ceramic coating. It's very slick straight away and dust etc won't do any harm.


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## cleslie (Feb 19, 2006)

Blueberry said:


> I prefer to use Cure as a drying aid, diluted 1:1, and that keeps it topped up and performing.


I've been thinking about doing this too. Will give it a go:thumb:


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## Blueberry (Aug 10, 2007)

I’ve applied it outside and left the. St stood outside without issue. Just coincide the application with a good forecast when no rain is due.


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## Christian6984 (Dec 20, 2007)

nice video, do have to say really impressed with every Gyeon product I've used. I remember applying my first paint coating to the Mini which was Prime which was very easy for something id never done previously. Its now been replaced with Pure but sure he said it can be a bit grabby upon wiping which would make me a little nervous again.


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

thanks again for all the input.

I assume this is safe for use on black plastic trim


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## A&J (Mar 4, 2015)

A bit late to the party but Ill add my 20c

First off prep work. As with any product its best to apply to a washed, deconed, clayed and polished surface. For polish you can use whatever you like. You can use the Gyeon primer but be aware it needs to cure for 12-24h before you apply Cancoat which is a waste of time in my world. If you want to use a primer product then use Carpro essence (3h cure time) or better yet TAC system primer (1h cure), but really any paint cleanser or abrassive polish will do just fine.

Application. Can not be simpler. Spray on the MF towel and wipe on the surface like using a QD, turn the towel to a dry side and remove immediately. Work in the shade. One bad thing IMO is that it does not leave a trace behind (if it does its not very noticible) so without proper lighting you can not tell where you applied it on the surface. Its like layering an invisible layer. You can layer it as much as you want as long as its 1h apart.

Beading & sheeting is awesome!

Durability...It lasted the entire winter without much issue. I havent really removed it yet but just topped it with OPT opti-seal and since the paint is super slick I dont entend to polish the car yet. Im also testing cancoat on my summer sets of wheels as we speak. 3 months in and they are still beading lilke mad. I washed them 2-3 times now.

Chemical resistance. Ive tested this a bit and sprayed on undiluted APC (around 12 ph), aggitated and rinsed. It had very little effect on the coating.

Problems I noticed. It clogges the sprayer so I suggest you rinse the sprayer after every use and after every layering. Heat up some water (or use APC or paint prep product) and pour it in a cup or a plastic cup and use that to remove product from the sprayer head. This will help but some dry product may still be left behind to clogg the sprayer head.

I have applied it outside with some issues on top panels (roof, hood) acting a bit worn off after a short period of time. Side panels were fine. Issue is its been applied in late fall with low temps and humid enviroment. It doesnt take long to cure (about 3h) but I still advise you do 2-3 coats on these panels and wait for warmer weather to do so or keep it in a garage if you can.

And yes its safe on plastic trim...just apply and wipe off same as on paint.

Hope it helps :wave:


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

Thanks , I've decided to try and source the use of a garage to leave it in overnight while it cures 

going to get some use out of the petes 53 wax that's currently on it an apply the can coat in august


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## Ti Rich (Jan 28, 2011)

Another fan of Can Coat here. Had it applied professionally on a brand new car. Lasted a good 6-8 months. Just reapplied it myself and very pleased with the results. Polish, panel wipe down and 2 coats with an hour in between then garaged overnight. I used 6 brand new micro fibre cloths to wipe off the excess.

I use the BSD/V07 mix as a LSP and the results are fantastic, never get any water spots at all.

One tin will do the car with 2 coats 3 or times so really economical too.


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## Kimo (Jun 7, 2013)

Blueberry said:


> I've used Can Coat quite a lot and much prefer to use this rather than Wet Coat. Gives a much better finish and performs better than Wet Coat. 2 coats, an hour apart, and it will last for nearly a year. You could use Wet Coat Maybe once a month or every couple of months but I prefer to use Cure as a drying aid, diluted 1:1, and that keeps it topped up and performing.


So it'll last a year if you top it up every wash???

Wow lol


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## fatdazza (Dec 29, 2010)

Kimo said:


> So it'll last a year if you top it up every wash???
> 
> Wow lol


Lol bit like Trigger's broom; three new heads and four new handles, broom is as good as the day I got it.


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## Blueberry (Aug 10, 2007)

Kimo said:


> So it'll last a year if you top it up every wash???
> 
> Wow lol


I don't Top it up every wash ! It's something that you could do like many other Coatings on the market. They all have a QD type product so please don't try to be clever.


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## Stephan (Jul 27, 2012)

Hi Guys,

Little question to pick in on the subject. I'm a Gyeon Cure user after every wash (like the glasslook it provides and slickness). 

I want to put Sonax PNS under the Gyeon cure as sealant. The price difference between Cancoat 48.99€ and PNS 17€ is enough to doubt. 

Is there a big difference in the look from cancoat and PNS if i use CURE every wash? Or will cure fix the grabbiness/look from the Sonax? 

Thanks !!


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

*update on can coat*

hi

just thought I'd give an update on my experience with can coat.

Applied can coat at the weekend . Full paint cleanse and machine polish . I used Bilt hamber paint cleanser. Not sure if I should have splashed out on Gyeon prep. Anyway I then applied can coat . left 2 hrs and applied second coat .

I started applying with a MF applicator and then wipe off with supplied cloth. Not sure if this was putting too much product on or not but found this method difficult when removing. So I then changed to just using the supplied MF to apply.

This is my first experience with any coatings but found the product drying to paint very very quickly. Very grabby and difficult to remove. Was only applying to small sections of a panel at a time but found that by the time I turned round to change to a clean MF the product had became difficult to remove. After a lot of hard work I felt the finish was indeed excellent. Not as slick as wet coat but very good gloss. Noticeably better than WC in gloss.

Bad news is that about 15 hrs after applying it started to rain a little and 24 hrs after the second coat the rain got heavier. I was hoping for 24 hrs without rain to allow it to fully cure. 

I relation to beeding. I honestly don't think it's any better than wet coat. Maybe I need to apply cure on top........surely the rain would not have washed this off or reduced the hydrophic ability after 15-20 hrs?

In anyone's opinion did I not apply this right ? Should I have used Gyeon prep instead of bilt hamber paint cleanser ?

I used the paint cleanser then machine polish and then paint cleanser again followed with a diluted IPA wipe down > then can coat

I'd appreciate any opinions ........please


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## A&J (Mar 4, 2015)

yulser said:


> bla bla bla
> 
> In anyone's opinion did I not apply this right ? Should I have used Gyeon prep instead of bilt hamber paint cleanser ?
> 
> ...


Did you use cleanser polish or cleanser fluid? If you used cleanser polish then there is your problem...its a paint cleaner/glaze type product onto which can coat wont bond properly...if you used cleanser fluid then you should be good.


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

Also anyone know how long I should leave this before first wash after applying coating ?

cheers


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

A&J said:


> Did you use cleanser polish or cleanser fluid? If you used cleanser polish then there is your problem...its a paint cleaner/glaze type product onto which can coat wont bond properly...if you used cleanser fluid then you should be good.


no I used the cleanser fluid spray on in silver tin

cheers


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## Sparkycasual (Feb 4, 2006)

You mention that the beading is not any better than wetcoat, and to a point I agree. Wetcoat in itself is a very good beading product and few things will significantly better it.
However, what you should see is much improved longevity relative to Wetcoat, typically lasting 6+months in real world conditions as opposed to 2 (give or take) with Wetcoat. It is the longevity that would be my main reason for using Cancoat rather than Wetcoat


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

Sparkycasual said:


> You mention that the beading is not any better than wetcoat, and to a point I agree. Wetcoat in itself is a very good beading product and few things will significantly better it.
> However, what you should see is much improved longevity relative to Wetcoat, typically lasting 6+months in real world conditions as opposed to 2 (give or take) with Wetcoat. It is the longevity that would be my main reason for using Cancoat rather than Wetcoat


cheers mate , 
I've just ordered a bottle of cure. going to apply this at the weekend

Any idea how long I should leave it prior to washing ?

I normally use Bilt hamber snow foam and then wash with GYEON Q²M BATHE ESSENCE


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## Sparkycasual (Feb 4, 2006)

I think if you leave it a week you should be fine.


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## PoweredbyJenga (Mar 28, 2018)

Cancoat is so versatile you can even apply it over wet car. Just google it, a user on a usa forum that I'm on has posted his experiment on youtube. 

I find it best applied via ufo applicator/ coating block, criss cross pattern, just like you would do a coating. 

You cant go wrong with this product. Find something that you like and use it often (taken from someone else) 

Cheers 

Sent from my MI MAX using Tapatalk


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## WristyManchego (Sep 9, 2018)

And how’s the can coat on trim, rubbers and glass? Anyone have direct experience?


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

WristyManchego said:


> And how's the can coat on trim, rubbers and glass? Anyone have direct experience?


seems to be fine on plastic trim.

I have to say though I have really bad high spots that have not buffed off well on the bonnet so be aware. It seems to be only noticeable on the bonnet after gently drying the car with the gyeon drying towel which is excellent BTW.

I plan to remove and redo the bonnet at the weekend. 

On the plus side the side panels are excellent and gloss is really good !


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## WristyManchego (Sep 9, 2018)

yulser said:


> seems to be fine on plastic trim.
> 
> I have to say though I have really bad high spots that have not buffed off well on the bonnet so be aware. It seems to be only noticeable on the bonnet after gently drying the car with the gyeon drying towel which is excellent BTW.
> 
> ...


Do you know why the high spots occurred?


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## Blueberry (Aug 10, 2007)

I apply it with a clean mf cloth and then wipe residue with another clean mf cloth. I’ve not had any high spots with it. It’s good to use on all surfaces i believe. It will be ok to wash the car this weekend. I apply Cure the following day once Can Coat has had a chance to cure to stop water spotting.


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

WristyManchego said:


> Do you know why the high spots occurred?


not sure TBH , maybe I used too much product on the MF that i used to apply it with but I was only doing small areas at a time and then buffing with seocnd clean MF. Found it really hard to work with and very grabby on the paint. Was like trying to remove super glue. It was a crisp dry day at the time Max 12 degrees so maybe it was a temp issue. I was like the can coat was sticking to the surface right away within seconds of application. 

only noticeable on bonnet , so I'm going to remove this weekend (weather permitting) and re-apply to the bonnet. TBH, I found it hard going but it's been well wort it with the rain this week . The rain just drops off the surface and gloss even on a dull day is excellent !


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

just had a thought, should I have possibly left the can coat a few minutes pryer to removal . Was I removing too soon ?


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## WristyManchego (Sep 9, 2018)

yulser said:


> not sure TBH , maybe I used too much product on the MF that i used to apply it with but I was only doing small areas at a time and then buffing with seocnd clean MF. Found it really hard to work with and very grabby on the paint. Was like trying to remove super glue. It was a crisp dry day at the time Max 12 degrees so maybe it was a temp issue. I was like the can coat was sticking to the surface right away within seconds of application.
> 
> only noticeable on bonnet , so I'm going to remove this weekend (weather permitting) and re-apply to the bonnet. TBH, I found it hard going but it's been well wort it with the rain this week . The rain just drops off the surface and gloss even on a dull day is excellent !


What sort of prep did you do? Was this post correction?

I'm deciding between Can Coat and Moonlight right now and it keeps swinging between Can Coats slightly better gloss and durability and Moonlights ease of use.


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

WristyManchego said:


> What sort of prep did you do? Was this post correction?
> 
> I'm deciding between Can Coat and Moonlight right now and it keeps swinging between Can Coats slightly better gloss and durability and Moonlights ease of use.


yeah I did a fully clean with bilt hamber cleansing fluid then correction with DA and then another wipe down with BH cleanser and diluted IPA and then applied the Can coat

the gloss on the can coat is excellent and seems to be good . I just found it hard to work with but i think I am in the minority


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## WristyManchego (Sep 9, 2018)

yulser said:


> yeah I did a fully clean with bilt hamber cleansing fluid then correction with DA and then another wipe down with BH cleanser and diluted IPA and then applied the Can coat
> 
> the gloss on the can coat is excellent and seems to be good . I just found it hard to work with but i think I am in the minority


A couple of people have mentioned it.

There's a clip from autogeek that covers can coat application. Worth a watch to see if your method was similar.

It'd be annoying if the product wasn't adaptable to method and temperatures. That would get a no from me.


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## yulser (May 22, 2008)

Slight update,

Machine polished the bonnet on Sunday and reapplied the can coat using less product and used the MF cloth to apply instead of MF applicator .

I used the application MF more to almost apply & buff off too and then a final buff off on each section with the seocnd MF cloth. Practically zero high spots and was a lot easier , but TBH still a lot harder to work with than anything else I've ever used. 

Used Gyeon cure on the rest of the car . That is a lot easier to use that the can coat and seemed like more of a detailer spray. I appreciate it's not as long lasting but all in all an excellent finish but just hard work. Going to leave the bonnet to cure more and then apply cure on the bonnet too.

From what I've read and heard I'll prob use TAC systems moonlight next time.

Thanks for all the input


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## sm81 (May 14, 2011)

Blueberry said:


> I've applied it outside and left the. St stood outside without issue. Just coincide the application with a good forecast when no rain is due.


Is +8 Celsius too low application temperature? Humidity ~90%. Does it cause any other problems than maybe reduced longevity? If it last 5-6 months I would be more than happy.


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## goldtw (Oct 5, 2013)

Gyeon have mentioned a new product which is like can coat which is for people who can't coat a car indoors, should be released any day now.


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## atbalfour (Aug 11, 2019)

goldtw said:


> Gyeon have mentioned a new product which is like can coat which is for people who can't coat a car indoors, should be released any day now.


That sounds interesting. Usually with any category of detailing product there will be trade offs between performance and usability.. that said there is a massive gap between Cure and Cancoat so plugging that gap can only be a positive thing.

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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

goldtw said:


> Gyeon have mentioned a new product which is like can coat which is for people who can't coat a car indoors, should be released any day now.


Now, that does sound interesting…


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## Kenan (Sep 7, 2015)

goldtw said:


> Gyeon have mentioned a new product which is like can coat which is for people who can't coat a car indoors, should be released any day now.


And I just got can coat to apply outside 

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## Andyblue (Jun 20, 2017)

Kenan said:


> And I just got can coat to apply outside
> 
> Sent from my M2007J20CG using Tapatalk


You can apply outside, it just needs the cure time - which is where you're either in the lap of the gods with the weather or cover it up…

Plenty do apply outside and no issues…


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## Kenan (Sep 7, 2015)

Andyblue said:


> You can apply outside, it just needs the cure time - which is where you're either in the lap of the gods with the weather or cover it up…
> 
> Plenty do apply outside and no issues…


Do you need th full 12 hours?
If I applied it today for example, would not be on the car till 12 and I guess the cars would start to confiscate in th evening so would not get the full 12 hours.

Found a guy on YouTube who applied it to a wet car like WetCoat and it went much better than you would think. I don't plan do do this, was just supprised.

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## roscopervis (Aug 22, 2006)

Kenan said:


> Do you need th full 12 hours?
> If I applied it today for example, would not be on the car till 12 and I guess the cars would start to confiscate in th evening so would not get the full 12 hours.
> 
> Found a guy on YouTube who applied it to a wet car like WetCoat and it went much better than you would think. I don't plan do do this, was just supprised.
> ...


Went much better than you would think. Was that from a not ruined immediately point of view? How long later did he give a durability update? If he didn't give one, then I would grab a goblet of salt and not think that it is a good thing to do.

I haven't written it up yet, but at the start of the weekend I applied a layer of the sweary Sinergy Lite to my car then well within 1 hour drove into torrential rain that has pretty much lasted all weekend. It says it can be done, so I like to test these things. It honks, but we'll see how it goes.


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## Kenan (Sep 7, 2015)

roscopervis said:


> Went much better than you would think. Was that from a not ruined immediately point of view? How long later did he give a durability update? If he didn't give one, then I would grab a goblet of salt and not think that it is a good thing to do.


I am not saying anyone should try it, it was only a curiosity test. But thought it was interesting, here's the link - 




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