# Stone chip repairs, a DIY Langka-type solution



## parish

There have been quite a few questions on here about stone chip repairs and my bonnet and front wings are covered in them - several hundred  . Really, it needs respraying but I can't afford it (not for a quality job anyway).

There seems to be 2 choices, touch-up and wet sand, or Langka. I'm a bit nervous about the wet sanding approach as I don't have a PTG. Langka seems a good bet, but a kit costs in the region of £15 and, from what I've read, only does 10-12 chips which means that to fix all the chips on my car it would cost more than a respray.

This got me thinking; the Langka system is the same process that the likes of Chips Away use except that the latter apply the paint with an airbrush. Touch-up paint doesn't dissolve/etch clearcoat so the solvent must be clearcoat safe. Also, the formulation of touch-up paint isn't anything particularly special therefore a solvent shouldn't be an expensive "hi-tech" chemical. I've got a good selection of solvents etc. so set about finding one that was a solvent for touch-up paint but would not damage clearcoat.

I've found one, Electorlube's UltraSolve. This is a PCB/electrical contact cleaner. It is available from RS (though not Maplins) at £6.79 for a 400ml aerosol - RS Stock No. 101-4965










I should add that I've got another PCB/contact cleaner (there are lots on the market) that is a totally different substance that doesn't act as a solvent for touch-up paint.

I've spent some time perfecting the technique and found what seems to be the optimum method.

With wet sanding you need to mess around with toothpick trying to get the paint only in the chip and since touch-up paint shrinks a lot when it dries you will need to apply several coats so any more than a handful of chips and it will be a painfully slow process, plus the fact that no matter how careful you are you will remove some clearcoat.

This method, as well as being much cheaper than Langka - the paint and tin of UltraSolve should be about the same price as, if not cheaper than, a Langka kit and will be enough for hundreds of chips - doesn't require precision application of the paint so is very quick.

I've found that putting a big blob of paint over the chip is the best way to go as it means that even with the shrinkage the paint blob will be proud of the surface with just one coat and means that you can use the brush in the touch-up bottle and just go round dabbing each chip.

The longer the paint is left to dry the slower the solvent removes it. You should leave it at least a couple of hours (depending on the temperature) before touching it. I used a piece of old T-shirt, sprayed some UltraSolve on it and removed the bulk of the paint but still left it pround of the surface (to allow for a bit more shrinkage). Leave it about another 10-12 hours and then use the UltraSolve to remove the last of the excess to bring it flush with the surface. Finally a quick polish to remove the small amount of marring left by the cloth and you're finished.

I have a blob of touch-up on the car that's 2-3 weeks old from when I was trying the wet sand method but chickened out (I only had 2000 grit so wanted to get some 3000 before continuing). I finished that off with the UltraSolve; the paint had fully cured and although the UltraSolve would still remove it a lot of rubbing was required which left quite a bit of marring, although ScratchX got rid of it. Around 12 hours (subject to temperature) seems to be the optimum time to leave the paint to give the best combination of slow enough removal that you don't remove paint from the chip yet not requiring excess rubbing.

Whether UltraSolve will work with all touch-up paints I don't know. I am using Genuine Saab paint which smells a bit like pear drops. Also, I'm not sure how well it would work for metallics if the touch-up paint is a 2 stage basecoat and clearcoat. For the chemists amongst you, UltraSolve contains:

1-METHOXY-2-PROPANOL 10-30%
CYCLOHEXANE 30-60%
HEPTANE 1-5%
HEXANE MIXTURE OF ISOMERS (MAX 5% n-HEXANE (203-777-6)) 5-10%
HEXANE-norm 1-5%
PROPAN-2-OL 10-30%

So I wouldn't use it in a confined space or you'll be high as a kite - don't let the local glue-sniffing yoof know you got it either 

I'll get take some pics at the weekend (the weather's bad at the moment) and post them up.


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## Neil_S

You may also want to consider Touchup 123, I emailed the company and they will supply overseas markets.

I decided against it until spring because of the weather.


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## parish

Neil_S said:


> You may also want to consider Touchup 123, I emailed the company and they will supply overseas markets.
> 
> I decided against it until spring because of the weather.


Have you seen the thread on Autopia about it? More people were disappointed with it than rated it.

Also, it's a similar process to Langka and just as expensive, plus I bet they won't be able to supply kits for a lot of cars we have over here, OK for MB, BMW, Volvo etc., but what about Peugeot, Renault, Vauxhall, etc.?


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## Neil_S

I've read all the threads, some people have success and some people don't, exactly the same with Langka.

I thought it was worth a shot, I guess you'll only know if they will supply the kit if you ask.


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## mzm70

Good work and nice writeup, look forward to the pictures,


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## fjs

The cyclohexane is probably doing its stuff here. Interesting the high percentage of propan-2-ol, ie isopropanol.

One of the problems with Langka is that the paint blob apparently lightens on colour when you flatten it. This has happened to me and is documented on Autopia forums. Does your method suffer in this way?


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## parish

fjs said:


> The cyclohexane is probably doing its stuff here. Interesting the high percentage of propan-2-ol, ie isopropanol.


Thanks. Useful to know whch is the 'active' ingredient.



fjs said:


> One of the problems with Langka is that the paint blob apparently lightens on colour when you flatten it. This has happened to me and is documented on Autopia forums. Does your method suffer in this way?


No, and my car's black so I guess that would be the colour that would show that up the most.

Here's pic that shows the size of the task I have :doublesho :doublesho

To be fair, a lot of the smaller chips are only visible because of the flash, you can't see them unde normal circumstances unless you press your nose against the panel.


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## steveo3002

thats alot of chips youve got there

chances are tinkering with any metalic will alter the color as theyre designed to be sprayed and not brushed in and messed with, if you are having color problems use the base coat and then build up to surface level with clear...then flat/langka the clear coat no the color


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## fjs

Thanks for the follow up info. This is a very promising approach, IMHO, though I do appreciate your problems with vast numbers of small chips may mean you eventually go another route.


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## CPT

Neil_S said:


> You may also want to consider Touchup 123, I emailed the company and they will supply overseas markets.
> 
> I decided against it until spring because of the weather.


I have just received a Touchup 123 kit for my Subaru,gave them my paint code and they matched the colour.

I will be trying it out in the morning,so will let you know what I think.


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## Neil_S

Nice one mate.


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## CPT

Well my day was ****ed up with an hours job fitting HID kit to my daughters Golf,which took four hours,so I only got a couple of hours to try the Touchup 123.

Colour match is good,I tried different methods of applying it,I found the best way was to put one drop of filler paint on the tissue that they supply in the kit and do a quick circular motion and then go on to the next bit.It dries in seconds so if you rub it to much it will rip the tissue.You can cover as much of the area as you like before cleaning off the paint with the cleaner,it justs leaves a haze which wipes off very easily,then just a check that you have got it all off,if not a bit more cleaner soon removes it.A good light is required to see that all the filler paint has been removed

First impressions is good,chips can still be seen close up,but they have been covered with paint,I have done the front end and bonnet edge and only used about half inch of paint and cleaner,so plenty left to do more coats to try and build the chips up level.


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## parish

Any chance of some pics CPT?

BTW, how much did it cost? IIRC it is about US$45 plus shipping on their website.



Neil_S said:


> I guess you'll only know if they will supply the kit if you ask.


True, but what I meant was that there are probably a lot of cars in Europe that don't get imported into the US, and if they do not necessarily the same colour range. OK for BMWs, Audis etc., but what about Clios, 306s etc.?


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## CPT

I had an additional colour and cleaner for my mate,the lot came to £53 delivered,took about a week.

Will take some pics when the rain stops.


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## CPT

Here is a side that has not been done









The bonnet and bumper was nearly as bad,this is after painting









This is a couple of bit of Touchup 123 that I missed last night,can be seen in daylight better,a wipe off with the cleaner sorted it









I will take some better pics when I have a go at the rest of the chips,before and after.


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## NeilB

I've just put a couple of 3 inch scratches on my bumper when turning into my drive :wall:  do you think this method of using that spray would work on a metalic blue car to level off the paint?


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## cav

so if i have read this right... 

i have got some paint made up by my local paint shop. but being metallic i will also need clear cost to get the right finish.

1. clean out the stone chip, maybe clay bar it etc
2. apply paint to cover the area, but not so its raised, the oppersite if possible.
3. once the paint has dried add clear coat so that is raised up. 
4. allow to dry then use the solution on a cloth? (cotton?) to rub away till its flat. 
5. take polish and buff out any marring. 


is that about right? 
how much is the solution? and its only the one can i need as i have my paint already. plus clear coat.




also anyone got any before and after shots? 

cav


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## cav

someone?


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## z3dave

I've just had some ultrasolve delivered so I'll let you know how it goes. I've used langka for a while and although not great its my colour thats the issue rather than the product. So I figured I'd go with the ultrasolve as its cheaper and as you say will do many more chips ... if it works for my paint, fingers crossed.


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## hutchingsp

Any suggestions on a solvent that can be had "over the counter" locally (weekend/bank holiday and all that)?

TIA,
Paul


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## mouthyman

where can i get a kit like this in the UK?


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## SteveOC

CPT said:


> I had an additional colour and cleaner for my mate,the lot came to £53 delivered,took about a week.
> 
> Will take some pics when the rain stops.


I realise that this post is from 2006, but the figures I was quoted were much higher.

The touchup123.com website will not allow you to specify shipping outside the US and you have to contact them directly. I then went back and queried the figure they quoted me:

_Thanks for the prompt reply, but can you clarify that the figure you quote of $60-$80 is an example of the TOTAL cost of a standard kit,INCLUDING shipping to the UK and not just the shipping cost?_

and they responded thus.

_The shipping alone would be between $60-$80. _

That is £30-£40 shipping for a single kit which is at least another £20 (starts at $39.99), so £50-60 for a single kit. I have seen larger, heavier items cost less than £10 ($20) and the shipping seems way off.
Shame, as I read a good writeup using it and quite fancied getting a couple of kits plus the Glob Doctor but the shipping costs (and 3 year shelf life on toner) made me decide to hold off for now.

Steve O.


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## mouthyman

SteveOC said:


> I realise that this post is from 2006, but the figures I was quoted were much higher.
> 
> The touchup123.com website will not allow you to specify shipping outside the US and you have to contact them directly. I then went back and queried the figure they quoted me:
> 
> _Thanks for the prompt reply, but can you clarify that the figure you quote of $60-$80 is an example of the TOTAL cost of a standard kit,INCLUDING shipping to the UK and not just the shipping cost?_
> 
> and they responded thus.
> 
> _The shipping alone would be between $60-$80. _
> 
> That is £30-£40 shipping for a single kit which is at least another £20 (starts at $39.99), so £50-60 for a single kit. I have seen larger, heavier items cost less than £10 ($20) and the shipping seems way off.
> Shame, as I read a good writeup using it and quite fancied getting a couple of kits plus the Glob Doctor but the shipping costs (and 3 year shelf life on toner) made me decide to hold off for now.
> 
> Steve O.


I had the same thought, and asked , got the same quote which seems very high especially for such a small item,
any idea if there is anything similar in the UK?


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## robertdon777

Try www.paints4u.co.uk


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## mouthyman

yep, i already have, but they dont have the same type kits, just touchup paint on its own.

ive got some touchup paint and lacquer so now ive just got to wet sand and polish


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## jimsdub

*RS Electrolube as Sovent*

This was originally posted by Parish in 2006, but has anyone since then tried using the RS Electrolube to smooth acrylic touch up and with what success, the post seemed to discontinue pretty quickly. The ide sounded very promising.


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## Swanny_UK

Has anyobody tried to put together a Touchup123 group buy?


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